Hi all,
As i started servicing all pdas for a couple of monthes (only as a hobby, i fix them for friends and relatives), i came across one BA that gave me some trouble.
i got it to replace its LCD that was broken as it was dropped and thats very simple to replace it, so far so good. now it has two main problems :
1. no sound from speaker (even when in speakerphone mode), but there is sound in the stereo earphones (i plugged to the connector by the sd card slot). - i can only assume that a bluetooth handsfree device it will also work.
2. although the backup battery is fully charged, if i remove the main battery even for a brief second, when turned on, the BA acts as if i made a hard reset.
as for solving the problems :
1. using a digital multimeter, i managed to track the conductivity from the internal speaker through its connector, flat ribbon to the connector which connects to the main pcb - so there is no contact problem from the speaker to the main pcb.
using the help from WIKI, i went to site that has the list of all components and their description - the IC that is responsible for audio amp is a MAXIM's MAX4410 which is a stereo headphone driver. a quick look at its charasteristics and typical configuration and i understood that (assuming this is the IC that drives the internal speaker) the speaker should have one pin which is ground and the other goes to the amplified signal from the IC. neither one of the pins showed it has GND to it. so maybe there is a bad GND line to the connector.
2. regarding the backup battery issue i do not know what makes this problem.
I am sharing this info with you all with two ideas in mind :
1. to resolve my problem and know those devices hardware better.
2. because i am quite a while watching xda-developers and WIKI and i got the feeling that a lot of eforth is given to the software side of all those pdas (which is greate!!! keep going, this work helps lots of people and it shows al thos mega corps they are not the only ones), but the hardware is a bit forgotten and left behind. let me tell you this, there are many VERY simple mini projects i made useing electronics (i am an electronics engineer in my profession) that made my life easy . i am now investigating those instruments hardware as i have several ideas to develope useful accessories to my pda (like an external IR transciver to control IR devices like TV,DVD and to communicate with my laptop, and some other ideas) and i believe we can do the same info sharing as done on software side but on the hardware side.
I will thank any ideas, thoghts or commentsabout this matter. Yol.
Hi,
I just bought an active Brodit Carholder with a 1-to-3 adapter, but I dont want to use (for now) the 3.5 mm connector for sound. The problem is, that my Diamond thinks that a Headset is connected, while plugged in, no matter if a headset is connected or not (3,5mm or ExtUSB). So I cant hear my Navigation Program...
Has anyone an idea how to "say" my Diamond to use its own speaker while plugged in (I'd prefer the Hardware-method, like connecting some contacts inside the 1-to-3 adapter).
Brodit Issue!!!
Same problem here!!! Can anybody help us out? So many smart people here, this problem should be an easy one (I would guess)
Thanks in advance!!!
I've the same Problem! Is there any answer?
go to registry
HKLM/System/State/Hardware/Headset
check its value when connected and when disconnected....
it must be "0".
Brodit Issue
Does this mean that I need to set it everytime when I put my Diamond in the Brodit car holder? There must be an easy way.......
But thanks anyway, let me try
Thanks, but I'd prefer a hardware method like cutting a cable/bridging two etc... so I don't have to set this registry value everytime i put my diamond into the carholder..
There must be an easy way thats right!
It don't work if i change the registry, when die headset is connected,
the value changes to 1 but when i change it to 0 nothing happens!!
Brodit problem
Has nobody got a solution for this problem? So many smart people up here...
PLEASE HELP
Thanks guys!!!
Hello, got also this problem i'm using the touch Pro, can anyone help me?
when my phone is in the Brobit carkit it thinks that my headset is connected.
So when I receive a call the sound of the conversation is over my car speakers, but there is nog mic.....
Anyone with a solution?
Any News on this?
Thanks!!
The only extUSB cable that worked well for me is the YC-A300 cable. It only sends out the sound if the headphones are plugged in, otherwise the sound comes from the Diamond speaker. It also enables the Diamond's built-in mic even if the headphones are connected.
No-one here can even be expected to help you with this problem. You were given the only solution available from the phone's end. So what makes you think that someone can give you a better answer. Most of the people here are phone modders, not accessory modders. And everything here has to do with SOFTWARE modding. You want hardware modding, & that isn't happening here. Besides yous guys are probably the only ones here that even have that holder. So you can try looking for a site that has forums developed around the holder that you have. Or, you can try to find a service manual on the holder & see if there is a schematical routing of the wires.
You shoud not have to bridge any of the wires though. It should just be a matter of diconnecting wire(s).
If I understand !nVisible correctly, you only want the charge capability, & nothing else. If so, then here is a possible "hardware" fix.
First make sure that all the wires are color coded.
Cut ALL the wires.
If there is only one black wire then reattach it first. (if possible, don't cut this one at all) {This should be ground -}
Connect the plug into your phone. {Be sure holder's power is plugged in}
Reattach & detach the wires one-by-one until the charge light is activated. {if the charge doesn't activate then disconnect that wire again} {Start with Red, then orange, then variatons of red (red is usually the positive +}
Or, try this:
Attach the plug into your phone whilst holder is powered. {if the holder is activating the headset, then you should see a headset icon in the startbar.}
Cut each wire one-by-one until you deactivate the headset icon. {reattaching the wires that don't deactivate.}
start with blues & greens {if present}
Remember; Black is most always ground, & red {or a variation of} is usually positive.
DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I personally would do it this way {if no other solutions existed}; but I've been working on electronics since I was a child {& I went to electronics school }
If you $&%* it up It's on you NOT me!
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Up Up & away
d4rkkn16ht said:
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much Sir.
d4rkkn16ht said:
[*]Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is this remote control you speak of?
d4rkkn16ht said:
[*]You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where would I get such a thing?
Hagenlund said:
What is this remote control you speak of?
Where would I get such a thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm assuming he is speaking of the in-line remote/amplifier/vol.control most "gaming headsets" come with.*
Quick Google search of "trrs" shot me to Amazon.com :good:
thanks, worked like a charm
Domba333 said:
thanks, worked like a charm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot.
d4rkkn16ht said:
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm confused with the Wiring diagram in [3] in my case is only the Blue color.So i have to skip this line Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),Is that so?? I have 4 wires viz. Green, Red,Blue and Copper. Please clarify me if i am wrong.
khup said:
I'm confused with the Wiring diagram in [3] in my case is only the Blue color.So i have to skip this line Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),Is that so?? I have 4 wires viz. Green, Red,Blue and Copper. Please clarify me if i am wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is yours an original HTC handsfree?
every channel should have a pair of (+) & (-) and the original HTC handsfree has 3 channel (left,right & mic/remote)
d4rkkn16ht said:
is yours an original HTC handsfree?
every channel should have a pair of (+) & (-) and the original HTC handsfree has 3 channel (left,right & mic/remote)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is the original one, it comes with the Box. Left=Green , Right=Red , Ground=Blue & Mic=Copper . Is this how i should connect?? I am still confused as there are only 4 wires.
khup said:
I think it is the original one, it comes with the Box. Left=Green , Right=Red , Ground=Blue & Mic=Copper . Is this how i should connect?? I am still confused as there are only 4 wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what else would you like to solder if there are physically only 4 parts (4 circles on jack). there could be - (grounds)of speakers, which should be soldered with - (ground) of the jack.
yaro666 said:
what else would you like to solder if there are physically only 4 parts (4 circles on jack). there could be - (grounds)of speakers, which should be soldered with - (ground) of the jack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ground=Blue.
All (-) = ground
You can combine all (-) & solder them together to the GROUND part of the jack
Hey there, looks like an amazing tuto but I'm having some problems with it, hope someone can give me a hand here.
I have this g-cube headphones with mic, and as you can see, they don't seem to have a "twisted" copper-white cable, or maybe I'm loosing something?
Pic attached shows just 4 cables with no way to un-twist any of them, Green, "Full-copper", Blue and Red.
I had to cut a bit more of this because on my first attempt, I tried to un-twist the copper one, it had some white fibers things, but no way to get two cables from it.
thanks alot
Sorry to bump this thread, but I want to check a few thing:
I want to wire this to a TRS plug (because I didn't buy a TRRS one, and, in the end, it doesn't matter, I only want to use the headphones, I don't even use microphone and remote).
Would this wiring work:
Red on right channel,
Green on left channel,
Blue and Red Blue on GND?
And I would leave other wires unwired / unconnected?
I don't want to mess something up, so I want to double check.
Thanks for the help in advance
^ Sounds right to me, just make sure the spare wires are capped so don't short on anything/cause interference .
Mister B said:
^ Sounds right to me, just make sure the spare wires are capped so don't short on anything/cause interference .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK great, thanks a lot.
My phone is a Samsung Galaxy S3, the wiring colours code is a bit different.
Mine has Red, Green, Black, and the last one has no skin.
It is Ok to assume that Red and Green are left and right in all headsets?
Which ones are Mic and Ground? I'm tempted to try the black as Mic and the no skin one as Ground.
Update
Well, the wire I took for no skin was the copper one, and It seems it is Ground, or maybe not, but It is the ring near the sleeve, and the Black wire go in the sleeve.
In my first attempt I soldered the Black and Copper in the wrong order, nothing terrible happened, but the volume was very low and when I pressed the auricular button the volume went to full only to come back to very low when the button was released. This gave me the clue that those two wires were switched then I re-soldered them in the correct order. Everything is fine now.
I believe that there is audio available from pins 27 & 28 of the main connector but you have to place a resistor between other pins to get it to work.
Does anyone know how to go about this?
And is the audio at full level to drive headphones or is it low level?
And do the internal speakers get turned off when the main connector is used?
Any help would be appreciated.
I don't have one yet but the video cable (rca not hdmi cable) should output sound, I think it would be "low"volume tho
I have the rca tv out cable. What exactly do you need to know?
While.it is plugged in, speakers turn off and out put volume is controlled by volume button.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
ssserpentine said:
I have the rca tv out cable. What exactly do you need to know?
While.it is plugged in, speakers turn off and out put volume is controlled by volume button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have read in previous posts that connecting directly to pins 27 & 28 wont give you any audio out. Apparantly you have to put a resister between other pins to tell the Tab to output audio. This is what I'm not sure about. I have just ordered some plugs to do some testing from kineteka.com.
I want to make a lead that will charge the Tab & give me high level audio out.
I recently purchased an 30pin to RCA adaptor. Unfortunately it seems like my ROM (Paranoid Android 2.20) doesn't support it as it reboots the moment i connect it. Which ROM have you guys successfully used to for the RCA connector?
Hello
When i connect ear buds and go to see a video or something else it starts the volume going down...Either if i put it up again it is going after a meanwhile down again.Except this sometimes for some minutes after volume dowm the lock button does not work.
I search around and i saw a lot of people ask about the same problem form 2016.
Do you have any idea how to solve this?
P.S.I use Sony headphones with the genuine pixel adapter from jack to usb c.
Thank you
Analogue headset controls work by applying resistors across some of the wires/contacts in the microphone. In short, the adapter is monitoring the voltage passing through the wires to detect the button presses. (I assume the adapter is entirely responsible for this on USB-C only phones)
My assumption is that your headphones are becoming faulty and are causing resistance on these lines even when you're not pressing the buttons on purpose. A less likely cause could be that the ADC(voltage sensor) on the adapter is faulty and is reading the wrong voltages and thinking a button is being pressed.