Hello. I have Motorola XT910. When i charge my phone, i see on screen "Unknown battery" (on display i see battery with "question mark" on the center) .
I had disassembly my phone. And i watch on battery board two items is damaged (because first element broken, and the second element have short colector and emitor.)
The firs element is transistor have mark 09D4 and the second element resistor. But i can't find what specification of this elements are(((.
And the questions is, the specification of this elements?
And the second question, i don't know may be the (first element) transistor works like shorted emitor and colector.
Sorry, but i don't want to buy a new battery, if all elements except two elements are working (Li-on element is a working).
Please HELP:crying:
Changing the battery isn't possible because even after disassembling the battery is sealed stuck in place.
hey bro, you are in the wrong thread, this one is for the motorola XT890 (aka Razr I), not the XT910 (aka Razr). :good:
try asking over here http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1622
good luck with your problem
Related
Hi . I'm going to replace my vox for TyTn 2 (!) . I need to know , what I need to check if i want to avoid sending phone to services (I think Construction , some problems like bad joystick ... ) ?
i purchased my kaiser brand new in may 2008...so you will probably get better advice from those that have gotten refurbished or second hand units.
anyway, heres a list of items you might want to check (based on my own observations as well as based on the readings/reports of various issues i've read about here on the forum):
1. hardware keys should work 100%. some users buying off ebay, for example, report that the phone works and the FRONT buttons work but the slide out keyboard is shot. just an example, it could be the other way around. but the point is to check and make sure each and every button works.
2. usb connector should work 100%. best way to check is to see if the phone can establish an activesync connection (with a known working cable) and if the orange charging LED lights up. next, hook up a wired headset (that is known to work correctly) to see if the pins for the audio signals are functioning on the usb connector. long press the button on the wired headset to see if the device starts to dial the last number dialed.
3. look out for "dead pixels". there should be NONE. because the kaiser has a relatively low resolution screen with less pixel density, i don't think it is acceptable for there to be ANY dead pixel at all because even one can become an eye sore. a quick way to check is to bring up an all-black screen and see if all the pixels are black. next, bring up an all-white screen and see if all pixels have turned white. also remember that sometimes dead pixels come and go. i've had TWO dead pixels during my ownership of the kaiser. one went away as soon as i flicked the device from the side and it never came back. another one lasted for a week and had me quite worried because it happened after my warranty period was over. i tried "dead pixel 'sweepers'" and maybe they helped because that particular dead pixel also eventually went away after a week and never reappeared.
4. scratches on the camera lens. note that the kaiser has a plastic lens "cover" on the back cover of the device. this part is known to get easily scratched and i don't think it is reasonable to be anal about this part. HOWEVER, if you take the back cover OFF, then the actual camera lens underneath the back cover should be spotless. check BOTH cameras to see if they work and can capture decent images (test the main camera with the back cover OFF to get better results).
5. the slide mechanism should be relatively "solid". look for distortions on the image displayed on the screen as you slide. ensure that the sim remains detectable when the keyboard is slid out. ensure that the front buttons work when the keyboard is slid out. ensure that the microsd card slot continues to work when the keyboard is slid out. all of the above mentioned items are connected to the main motherboard via "ribbon cables" (hidden underneath the sliding mechanism) and sliding out the keyboard can cause faulty ribbon cables to act up. look out for that!
6. make sure the status/notification LEDs work. read the WIKI/manual for information about the normal/expected behavior of the LEDs.
7. the earpiece should work. the loudspeaker should work. the microphone should work.
8. the touch screen should work! try out bubblebreaker so that you can check the responsiveness of the screen across its entire surface. recalibrate the screen if you have to. remember, the kaiser's touch screen can occasionally be a bit fussy if a screen protector is present.
9. look for obvious scratches/damage to the screen and body. try to see if the damage really matters to you (as an eyesore) or to the device (can it affect the device's normal functioning?).
10. check the water exposure stickers under the battery to make sure they have not turned a pinkish color. if they are pink, there is a chance that the device was exposed to some amount (or a lot of) water in the past. while you're at it, check the battery contacts for corrosion (might cause power issues later) and check the battery compartment for any signs that a previous battery may have leaked (extremely unlikely). who knows, maybe the owner had it properly serviced after the water exposure so no harm in asking. if properly serviced at the right time after water exposure, there have been many success stories here on the forum of the device continuing its normal functioning.
ummm thats about it from my side, hope this helps!
TYVM ... i have this phone ... I'm really exited . I'm going to do Hard SPL tomorrow ... I want some good rom ... so what is fast ... and have that D3D driver ??
congratulations!
i answered your original question because it was a bit of a unique question.
but your second question about "which ROM is good and fast" cannot be answered by anyone except for YOURSELF. go ahead and explore the Kaiser ROM Development Section. read about some of the ROMs that seem to interest you. try out a few of them and see what you like and dislike. good luck!
OK ... can you tell me ... what does thet D3D driver ??? and why 101 MB ram and D3D not working together ???
And one more thing ... i try ANYTHING but i cannot set up android and run it .... And also I don't know how to make that default.txt
And can you explain me this ??? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8uq4FtduY
didoop said:
OK ... can you tell me ... what does thet D3D driver ??? and why 101 MB ram and D3D not working together ???
And one more thing ... i try ANYTHING but i cannot set up android and run it .... And also I don't know how to make that default.txt
And can you explain me this ??? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8uq4FtduY
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How about you do some searching and explain it yourself or post in threads related to your topic.
ASCIIker isn't your personal guide through this site.
Hi all,
Does anyone know where's the SGS's LDI? Is it also like iphone in the headphone jack. Just wna be sure
Samsung vibrant ldi
I know that there is one on the edge of the battery, one on the inside just behind the battery and then one under the circuits and behind the screen close to the volume buttons. I am not sure about the headphone jack or if there are others though.
Pictures of the Liquid Damage Indicators INSIDE the SGS, please?
All I know is that my SGS doesn't even have that one LDI that's supposedly placed in the battery compartment. But I have seen it in other people's phones.
It's like a little white sticker with the shape of a square placed right in between the 'battery-phone contact spot' (no idea how that's called in english) and the sticker with "phone model, IMEI 8687..., made in Korea, blah blah, etc". But as I mentionned already, mine doesn't have it. It only has the square mark where it should be placed, but no sticker at all. I've also read and concluded that it depends on your cellphone's carrier, so it's not necessarely a bad thing that you don't have it, nor it means you've somehow lost it. Sometimes it's just that it comes that way, LDI-less from the factory itself. Why? Just because, your manufacturers wanted that way.
About others Liquid Damage Indicators INSIDE the phone -behind the screen by the volume buttons, and another by headphone jack as "wj04" mentionned, or somewhere else- , I couldn't tell, haven't checked yet and got no idea what they'd possibly look like... May be someone certain of it could attach couple of pictures so we all would know what should we be looking for? Thanks a lot.
So, the screen on my Note 4X broke, and I wanted to replace it. Long story short, the battery is glued down hard as **** and I managed to damage it, and it burst into flames. I'm fine, I was prepared, nothing but the phone suffered any damage.
But now I'm sitting here, with a phone that's basically still fine minus the frame and the battery, and I still want to repair it.
I'm faced with two questions, first of all, I managed to find (I think) every part I need, but one eludes me. I don't even know what it's for. You can see it here (minute 9:11-9:27):
https://youtu.be/MQazwoEssN0?t=556
It says "C6_LEDFPC_V1.0" on mine. Google tells me nothing about that, and it's not a part I have seen on the repair shop sites. It doesn't even seem to be present on complete frame+display assemblies like this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD...edmi-Note-4X-hongmi-Red-Rise/32810566637.html
And apart from that, I wonder if I missed any part.
I still have:
A new display+digitizer, the back cover, the mainboard with the SoC and the two cameras, the PCB with the charging board, the battery cable, the sim tray, the fingerprint reader, the loudspeaker.
I need:
A new frame, an earpiece, the mainboard flex cable, the side key flex cable, a battery, and the one mysterious piece.
Is that everything? Does everyone has a basic list of all the parts?
anon768 said:
So, the screen on my Note 4X broke, and I wanted to replace it. Long story short, the battery is glued down hard as **** and I managed to damage it, and it burst into flames. I'm fine, I was prepared, nothing but the phone suffered any damage.
But now I'm sitting here, with a phone that's basically still fine minus the frame and the battery, and I still want to repair it.
I'm faced with two questions, first of all, I managed to find (I think) every part I need, but one eludes me. I don't even know what it's for. You can see it here (minute 9:11-9:27):
https://youtu.be/MQazwoEssN0?t=556
It says "C6_LEDFPC_V1.0" on mine. Google tells me nothing about that, and it's not a part I have seen on the repair shop sites. It doesn't even seem to be present on complete frame+display assemblies like this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LCD...edmi-Note-4X-hongmi-Red-Rise/32810566637.html
And apart from that, I wonder if I missed any part.
I still have:
A new display+digitizer, the back cover, the mainboard with the SoC and the two cameras, the PCB with the charging board, the battery cable, the sim tray, the fingerprint reader, the loudspeaker.
I need:
A new frame, an earpiece, the mainboard flex cable, the side key flex cable, a battery, and the one mysterious piece.
Is that everything? Does everyone has a basic list of all the parts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been thinking that in the video, the guy switched on the phone without that part. so that part shouldn't be a very major component. In my opinion, it can be some sort of sensor. I personally feel its a magnet screen sensor for covers with smart wake up function.
The reason I say this is because when i touch a small magnet on the entire front panel, It gets stuck on that same point.
However I am not very sure as the smart wake is not triggered. Maybe it is because I am on LineageOS.
Hope It turns out helpful.
You will probably need the vibrator motor too, its quite small and easy to lose as I've found.
one like this:
link
That part is the LED for the capacitive buttons. Not important at all if you cant find it
This ways is for:
- When you connect the watch to the charger, it's turn on and says charging but when removing it from charger it's go black (auto poweroff)
- When you press the power button it's won't boot or go black (auto poweroff) at the "LG" screen
You need:
- Old battery
- Soldering Iron and Soldering Wire
Optional:
- 0 ohm resistance
1.Remove the sticker and plastic case on the battery protection board
Image see attachment files 1
2.Use Soldering Iron to remove the component in the image
3.Soldering 0 ohm resistance to the position of removed component or just use Soldering Wire to connect two contactor, it should be like this:
Image see attachment files 2
4.Done,now your battery should be work.
This ways is from:
tieba.baidu.com/p/4071402128 (Chinese forum, solution at the second replies)
Sorry,my English is poor and i can't find buttons to upload attachments or image to xda-developers.
I finded the buttons to upload attachment!
You can ask me if you have any other questions.
If this helped you,please click thanks button.
I will check this and will let you know if this solve my boot problem.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/g-watch-r/help/watch-shutting-removed-cradle-t3433394/page3
You are my hero of the day.
I replaced the component (what ever that may be) and the bootproblem was solved.
Thank you very much for sharing this
Do you know what the component is?
Gameboyboyboy said:
You are my hero of the day.
I replaced the component (what ever that may be) and the bootproblem was solved.
Thank you very much for sharing this
Do you know what the component is?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, i don't know what it is
I just found that ways from here:
tieba.baidu.com/p/4071402128 (It's a chinese forum,solution in the second replies)
It's also call it "component" , and says it's possible is a fuse
Nice post man!
I did all these steps and...... tadaaaaam BACK TO LIVE!
Mine is working to!!! Thank you very much for the solution :good:
Can someone explain what is going on here exactly? Is modifying this resistor going to make my watch potentially unsafe (eg. overcharging)? I find it really interesting that my replacement battery had the same problem as the original.
stephendt0 said:
Can someone explain what is going on here exactly? Is modifying this resistor going to make my watch potentially unsafe (eg. overcharging)? I find it really interesting that my replacement battery had the same problem as the original.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This may be a battery manufacturer's problem,the old "component" are broken. Just don't use charger(dock) output > 5V 1A there will not safe problem.
Excellent :good::good:
I was having this problem even after changing the new battery, I used above fix and now its working perfectly since yesterday. Thanks Again.
Hi,
I have the same issue since a few days. First of thanks for the provided solution. But because removing a potential fuse and bride the contacts doesn't sound really save to me, I want to ask if someone who has done it month ago can report that there are no issues so far.
And if someone had issues please report them, it would be much appreciated and help other people too who will find this Thread in the future.
I just wanted to say thank you!
I bridged the component with a blob of solder and half expected it to blow up in my face but it works just fine. I think I'm gonna order a new battery anyway since this one is 4 years old but this fix solved it for me!
Willy130683 said:
Hi,
I have the same issue since a few days. First of thanks for the provided solution. But because removing a potential fuse and bride the contacts doesn't sound really save to me, I want to ask if someone who has done it month ago can report that there are no issues so far.
And if someone had issues please report them, it would be much appreciated and help other people too who will find this Thread in the future.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are concerned, buy a new battery. Its cheap and quick.
A new battery has saved my G Watch R.. only 8€:good:
this also fixed my lg watch urbane that had the same issue , thanks a lot
Thank you!
Worked like a charm.
my 5 year old LG G Watch R is alive again.
Gonna order a new battery soon tho but this really did the trick
spyne82 said:
A new battery has saved my G Watch R.. only 8€:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi can u share the link for the 8 euro battery. Can't seem to find one nowadays
I can confirm the fix works as charm!
I really want to thank you for this amazing trick! My only hope is that whatever the piece we removed was, we don't end up with an exploding battery on our wrists! ?
Here is a Link .
It's on eBay Germany.
Between it's now for 15.99€
https://m.ebay.de/itm/Smartwatch-Ak...b1992911650a68d761747ddfff474ca&ul_noapp=true
Neveark said:
This ways is for:
- When you connect the watch to the charger, it's turn on and says charging but when removing it from charger it's go black (auto poweroff)
- When you press the power button it's won't boot or go black (auto poweroff) at the "LG" screen
You need:
- Old battery
- Soldering Iron and Soldering Wire
Optional:
- 0 ohm resistance
1.Remove the sticker and plastic case on the battery protection board
Image see attachment files 1
2.Use Soldering Iron to remove the component in the image
3.Soldering 0 ohm resistance to the position of removed component or just use Soldering Wire to connect two contactor, it should be like this:
Image see attachment files 2
4.Done,now your battery should be work.
This ways is from:
tieba.baidu.com/p/4071402128 (Chinese forum, solution at the second replies)
Sorry,my English is poor and i can't find buttons to upload attachments or image to xda-developers.
I finded the buttons to upload attachment!
You can ask me if you have any other questions.
If this helped you,please click thanks button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for this instructions, i was able to fix my g watch r and get it back to working. I didn't use it for quite a while, and when i wanted to use it again it started to only work when charging (similar to my lg g3 when the battery is almost dead, which i fix with a new one, second replacement).
And i decided to give this a try before buying a new battery, my thought was that i had nothing to lose... First attempt aasn't perfect, i was able to remove that little chip, but the soldering didn't went very well (i am not very talented with a sodering iron) and when i reassembled the watch it started to flash a empty battery icon and didn't charged or turned on.
So i tryed a second time and the sordering ended up much better the second time. The 2 connectors ended well connected this time and it is now working normally.
It was very helpfull and it worked much better than i expected.
Hello,
Some time ago I managed to buy a working second-hand "Pebble Time Steel"... well, almost working. The watch succeeded to connect via bluetooth, showed information on screen properly, was responsive. The only things that worked wrong was the almost worn battery and non-working "back" button.
I like PTS, it has some unique functions that modern smartwatches miss... so I decided to repair it and use as my primary watch.
Never mind the battery, the new one is on its way from Aliexpress. The "back" button however is a big challenge. The previous owner tried to repair it, but he didn't succeed. The only goal he managed was to solder out the microswitch and... leave an empty space. So right now I have PTS with a working motherboard and empty space where the microswitch was.
I tried to find out what type of microswitch it is. Hours of searching internet and online catalogues returned poor results. The only switch that is close to the size of the original was Omron B3U-3000P-B, but it is still a bit too big. A bit risky to use it due to the SMD resistor placed close to the switch. The original switch is 3mm in width, 2mm deep and 2mm high.
Can you please help me to find the appropriate model of the switch?
There is also another way... does somebody have a broken "Pebble Time" or "Pebble Time Steel" motherboard to sell? I could use switch to replace it to my PTS board.
Here are some photos:
- The first photo shows the motherboard, the arrow points the empty space
- The second photo shows one of the other switches
- The third photo shows the front of the switch - there is a black micro knob mounted to the golden spring circle
Sorry for the poor sharpness, my phone doesn't have "macro" mode.
Welcome to XDA.
This device dates back to when?
This site may have a plan if you contact them if the watch dates back 6+ years.
Conversely buying a parts queen cheap might work but you better have excellent desoldering/ soldering skills. These pcbs are easily damaged.
Digikey or Mouser Electronics may have something that small. You need to know what type of switch it is ie NC or NO, single pole etc.
No easy task...
OK, I contacted Rebble Discord and they really helped. Just for your information if someone needs it: this is the Panasonic TACT switch of "EVPAV" series. Right now there is only one model available (EVPAVAA1A) that is a bit thinner than the original Pebble one, but I will find a way to solder it properly.
You can close this thread.
ravan70 said:
You can close this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thread closed at the OP's request.