Hello.Does all the kaisers shoot so bad or mine have problems ? Look at the photo.
Is it software or hardware problem ?
Clean and polish the window on the back cover, or just pry it off. Or, remove the back cover when taking a photo.
and anyways if you want good pictures then use a professional camera no phone is meant to take really high quality pictures (except for the sonyericcson cybershots) because they aren't built around the camera but around functionality
These photos are without the back panel.
From short distance - no problems
From long distance - bad quality
From longer distance - worse quality
It's night here,and i can't shoot now.
Edit: I have separate camera,but my old Nokia 6630 shoots better than the Kaiser.
Edit2 : Look at the photos shot by the camera : here
Ever heard about amount of light and its relationship to exposure time? Your monitor is giving a lot more light than the ambient, so shorter exposure time and thus less motion blur. Wait until tomorrow, and shoot something in daylight.
kilrah said:
Ever heard about amount of light and its relationship to exposure time? Your monitor is giving a lot more light than the ambient, so shorter exposure time and thus less motion blur. Wait until tomorrow, and shoot something in daylight.
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Look at these photos,which I shot a few days earlier.
Short distance photo:
Long distance photo:
kilrah said:
Ever heard about amount of light and its relationship to exposure time? Your monitor is giving a lot more light than the ambient, so shorter exposure time and thus less motion blur.
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I thought it was motion blur as well until I read about Chromatic Aberration and realised that even when I hold the TyTN II perfectly still, these problems are still present. Certainly cleaning the lense or removing the battery cover helps but it is really indicative of a design issue with the phone. The top left of the first photo shows some of this.
Anyone notice that optical image stabilization is missing in the specifications? I just did a quick search and found several sources saying its digital stabilization. A little bummed about that. Thoughts anyone? :crying:
From the videos, its pretty stable with digital stabilization compared to other smartphones no?
Sent from my One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
expertzero1 said:
From the videos, its pretty stable with digital stabilization compared to other smartphones no?
Sent from my One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
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Yeah, can't wait for a couple full blown reviews. If anything, hopefully they will bundle the qx10 for preorders in the US too. I hear the qx10 has the optical stabilization. I'm just worried about the low light blurriness. I had the 1020 and it was fantastic.
Smartphone makers try to close the image quality gap between their phones and actual camera.
However, to be honest, I do not rely to much to phone camera.
Their lens can't and sensors can't compare to actual camera even point and shot one, not saying SLR cameras.
Anyway, a phone without a camera is also something should be in history.
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
katamari201 said:
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
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Dude, what is your problem? It's only a phone with camera that can rival with the best currently available when it comes to pure picture quality. It bests S4 in low light shots and rivals 1020, in daylight photos you can clearly see more details compared to S4 (which by many is considered to have the best camera on android). What is true is that Sony still needs to improve their algorithm but even as it is now it can produce exceptional photos even in full 20mpix resolution.
Stop acting like a baby!!
Wishmaster89 said:
Dude, what is your problem? It's only a phone with camera that can rival with the best currently available when it comes to pure picture quality. It bests S4 in low light shots and rivals 1020, in daylight photos you can clearly see more details compared to S4 (which by many is considered to have the best camera on android). What is true is that Sony still needs to improve their algorithm but even as it is now it can produce exceptional photos even in full 20mpix resolution.
Stop acting like a baby!!
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I think that we all just wanted them to do it right you know? They went out to make a great camera phone and it feels like they stopped 5% away from the finish line. Still, will probably be a great phone and a great camera.
systoxity said:
I think that we all just wanted them to do it right you know? They went out to make a great camera phone and it feels like they stopped 5% away from the finish line. Still, will probably be a great phone and a great camera.
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There'a a difference between disappointment and senseless bashing and that is what I was criticizing.
I agree that it is a shame that they weren't able to include OIS or sensor shift but I think that it could have been currently impossible with such a big sensor and bigger lens than other manufacturers. It is a shame but it's not something that automatically makes it worse than G2 or note 3/S4, on the contrary I still think that it'll end up doing better pictures than both of them.
Sony SteadyShot
It's not all down hill guys, the Z1 has Sony's SteadyShot technology in it, it just appears to only work in video mode which imo is best place, I suppose there will be more clarification once it's out......http://www.sonymobile.com/global-en/products/phones/xperia-z1/features/#camera
katamari201 said:
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
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You sound completely mental.
OIS.. will increase quality for low light shot without question...because of ISO..dont know the ISO range.. any one knows?
jos_031 said:
OIS.. will increase quality for low light shot without question...because of ISO..dont know the ISO range.. any one knows?
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6400 it says on the Sony site I linked it 2 posts back.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
katamari201 said:
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
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Click to collapse
You're just trolling. I've been checking on the photo samples from the Z1 for the past couple days cause I'm considering getting one. I've been waiting for HTC to announce the One Max, but the lack of doing so at the IFA completely made me give up on them and push me toward getting a Z1 instead. At first I noticed the photos had a lot of noise from the Z1 photo samples, but it seems like the noise was taken cared of via software update. The lack of OIS doesn't exactly affect the quality of the photos so far from what I see. The photo samples from the Z1 look more natural than 1020's which had a yellow tint to it. The photos were so defined when comparing the HTC One under low light condition and HTC One is only a bit behind on 1020 under low light condition.
Really, i think at this point we all just need to get our hands on one and give it a shot. The sample photos floating around on the internet certainly haven't been flattering but that could be due to any number of variables. Any word on US release yet?
Exposure is basically the AMOUNT OF LIGHT (controlled by the aperture) that is captured over a SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME (controlled by the shutter speed).
A HIGH aperture number (fstop) = LESS light being recorded on your digital sensor while a LOW aperture number = MORE light being recorded on your digital sensor. apertures are called fstops
Shutter speed: it is the amount of time your shutter stays open when you click the button
The longer your shutter stays open the more motion it will have time to record. The shorter the time your shutter remains open, the more motion it will freeze. But at low light you need more exposure
ISO rating along with the shutter speed and aperture setting are the three elements that determine the final exposure of the photographic image.
The ISO rating, which ranges in value from 25 to 6400 (or beyond), indicates the specific light sensitivity. The lower the number, the less sensitive to light the film stock or image sensor is. Conversely, a higher number indicates a higher sensitivity to light, thereby allowing that film or image sensor to work better in low light conditions.
the lower ISO rating also meant that the photosensitive grains of salt on the film acetate were very fine, thus producing a smoother, cleaner image. A higher ISO had larger, jagged grains of salt, thus producing “rougher” or grainier images.
Lower ISO ratings produce color-accurate, smooth and aesthetically appealing images… and this requires ideal lighting conditions. However, there are some subjects that you want to photograph in low light conditions. Or, you may want to stop fast-moving objects. In both situations, you need higher ISOs to capture those images with an acceptable exposure.with the higher ISOs, you can use faster shutter speeds to eliminate motion blur and/or camera shake. In the event that you want to use motion blur creatively, then decreasing the ISO is simple, and you can then decrease the shutter speed to achieve the desired motion blur and still have smooth, noise-less images.
The size of the digital camera’s image sensor dictates what ISO setting provides the least amount of digital noise. One must understand that image sensor size is not the same thing as pixel count. Image sensor size is the actual physical dimensions of the sensor, for most of the history of digital photography the image sensor has been smaller than a 35mm film frame. On point and shoot cameras, the sensor was quite small, and on most DSLR cameras, the image sensor has been the size of APC film (23x15mm). Smaller image sensors produce much more digital noise at higher ISOs (like 800) mainly because the high pixel count means that more pixels are being packed into a smaller area, thus producing more grain at all but the lowest ISO.
Whenever you shoot in low light or use a long lens, or if you simply aren't holding a camera steady, you risk introducing camera shake into your images. This manifests itself as a blurring of details, and unlike other image quality issues it's not something that can be fixed in post-processing.
The three main image stabilisation systems on offer:
Manufacturers have different names for lens-based stabilisation, but they all largely work in the same way.
ISO based
All but the cheapest compacts offer image stabilisation, and the easiest solution from the manufacturer's point of view is one based on sensitivity. This adds nothing to the manufacturing of a camera as it's simply the ISO which needs to be adjusted, easily handled by the camera's firmware.
As this is the most basic form of image stabilisation, and as other types are preferable, manufacturers often call it 'digital' image stabilisation in press releases and throughout specification lists.
With this type of image stabilisation, the camera looks at the focal length and shutter speed being used, and decides whether the two will create a sharp enough image. If it deems them to be inadequate the camera's sensitivity will be raised, which in turn increases the shutter speed, but the resulting signal will need to be amplified to a greater extent.
So, a camera could choose to raise an image that would be otherwise captured at 1/20sec to 1/80sec, but it would need to raise the sensitivity twofold. So, from ISO 100 this would rise to ISO 400, from ISO 200 to ISO 800 and so on.
The image is still captured sharply as a more appropriate shutter speed has been used, but this process gives rise to noise which is typical with images captured at higher sensitivities. For this reason other systems are preferable in more expensive cameras and lenses. In many compacts, this method is often complemented by sensor-based stabilisation.
Sensor based
Sensor-based stabilisation also uses information such as focal length and shutter speed on which to base its calculations, but instead of adjusting the sensitivity the camera physically moves the sensor.
The sensor will typically be mounted on a platform, which will move to compensate for any movement when the camera senses it is necessary.
Minolta first introduced the feature in its DiMAGE A1 camera back in 2003, and, after merging with Konica, incorporated it into the 7D DSLR.
Sony continued the feature when it took over Konica Minolta's imaging business, and was soon joined by Pentax, Olympus and others. All three companies continue to use the system today, and it has since been adopted by other manufacturers for their own hybrid systems and compacts.
In the case of DSLRs and hybrids, this type of image stabilisation brings the significant advantage of allowing lenses to be made smaller, lighter and cheaper (as they do not need to incorporate any form of image stabilisation themselves), and is effective with virtually any mounted lens. This is particularly handy in the case of older lenses which predate image stabilisation technology, although it may be necessary to first input the focal length of the lens into the camera, depending on the lens, camera and the nature of communication between the two.
Lens based
Lens-based image stabilisation came just before digital cameras were made accessible, but the two have more or less evolved over a similar space of time.
Today, the technology is found in a range of optics manufactured by Canon and Nikon (particularly those targeted towards the professional), as well throughout the ranges from independent lens manufacturers Sigma and Tamron. Panasonic also uses the system in its lenses designed for the Micro Four Thirds system, as well as those found in its Lumix range of compacts.
Lens-based stabilisation systems typically work by shifting a lens group towards the rear of the lens on a plane perpendicular to the optical axis.
This is done with the help of two gyro sensors inside the lens, one for yaw and one for pitch. These notice the angle and speed of any movement, and this information is fed to a microprocessor which computes the necessary adjustments needed to be made by the lens group. By doing so, the light's angle of refraction is changed so that it hits the sensor in the right place.
Manufacturers of these systems claim that this type of stabilisation is the most effective as it can be tailored specifically to the objective in which it us used. And, as stabilisation takes place in the lens, the photographer is able to view the effect through the viewfinder.
Typically this activates once the shutter release has been half-depressed, although it is possible on different camera/lens combinations to set when the stabilisation begins, such as only at the moment of capture, for example. This has the additional benefit of conserving power, as, left on all the time, lens-based image stabilisation systems can eat up battery power fairly quickly.
One recent development in this area is Canon's Hybrid IS system, which offers two types of correction.
The first is via an angular velocity sensor which notices rotational shake, which is found in existing image-stabilised lenses.
Canon 100mmThe second - and what makes the Hybrid IS system different - is a separate sensor for noticing camera shift (linear) movements, such as when a camera moves up, down, left or right while remaining parallel to the subject. Canon claims that by incorporating both sensors camera shake is better corrected.
Now i guess everyone got importance of OIS feature..
And i tried the camera of xperia Z1.. the picture was blurry at full zoom. but noise was absent..I feel low noise is more important than full zoom blur...because the photo is excellent for normal usage
wow, thank you that was a great read.
So I might be getting another replacement One, and I'm wondering if the new Omnivision modules that they've started using are any good.. I was reading the specs on the website (model: OV4688) and it seems that it doesn't offer OIS, it says Electronic Image Stabilization on their website. Also, I read somewhere that they're very poor in low light.. Anyone got proof to back these up? Any pictures to show the differences between these? Also, any difference in the mic audio quality between the old and new batches?
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
BumP!!
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n1234d said:
BumP!!
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
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So I wrote about this in one of the purple camera fix threads. First I'll see I haven't noticed any puple/pink hues in any pics in lowlight. It seems to be performing well in that area. I also don't have a pink spot in the middle.
Occasionally in the outer edges I might notice some green tint in low light - particularly in rooms that have a shade of green in them already. It doesn't however grow and get worse. Its just the outer fringes. When I switch the camera from wide to regular crop it pretty much goes away. If not, its easily fixed with a quick touchup by adjusting the saturation with a custom effect in the gallery or just using aviary and the one click color fix. Also you can avoid it all together by adjusting saturation down a notch in the camera settings before taking a pic.
However.....what I have noticed is that in indoor lighting, even good lighting, the video recording frames per second maxes out at like 19-20. This is kind of a bummer. I mean I've turned on a all the lights in a really well lit room and could not achieve what I could in fps compared to the old sensor. I've tried different camera apps and they all max out at 19-20 in these light conditions, which tells me that its most likely set in the kernel. I wonder if this sensor has not been optimized fully by HTC yet. I think they've worked with three different sensors so far: ST electronics, Sharp, and Omnivision. Perhaps its hard to accomidate them all in the kernel - but I'm just speculating. there.
My compromise is to shoot indoor video at the 60fps mode, because that caps out indoors at 40fps.
I've fully tested video outdoors and even this morning indoors when there was no artificial light source and it recorded at a full 30 fps.
If what I think is true - that its not fully optimized at the kernel level it could be something HTC can push out in an update. Perhaps its hard for them to try to support 3 different sensors and find a balance...But this is just speculation on my part. Now I've lived in the same house and conditions for the past year and the old sensor had an edge up on fps than the Omni. I looked at some old videos shot indoors last night and fps was hovering around 29-30. So far this is my only gripe.
A note about the Sensor:
Early on Brian at AnandTech when he reviewed the One talked a bit about the Sensor HTC used when building the first Ones, and he also compared the ST sensor to the Omnivision sensor, because that Omni made its debut at the 2013 CES. Here is his review:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6747/htc-one-review/5
I find it interesting that 2 companies made identical sensors, ST and Omnivision according to Brian.
Overall I'm happy I sent my device in and had the sensor replaced, because in the end, no amount of quick photo tools or photoshop would help the purple tint issue.
Hope this helps.
gustav30 said:
So I wrote about this in one of the purple camera fix threads. First I'll see I haven't noticed any puple/pink hues in any pics in lowlight. It seems to be performing well in that area. I also don't have a pink spot in the middle.
Occasionally in the outer edges I might notice some green tint in low light - particularly in rooms that have a shade of green in them already. It doesn't however grow and get worse. Its just the outer fringes. When I switch the camera from wide to regular crop it pretty much goes away. If not, its easily fixed with a quick touchup by adjusting the saturation with a custom effect in the gallery or just using aviary and the one click color fix. Also you can avoid it all together by adjusting saturation down a notch in the camera settings before taking a pic.
However.....what I have noticed is that in indoor lighting, even good lighting, the video recording frames per second maxes out at like 19-20. This is kind of a bummer. I mean I've turned on a all the lights in a really well lit room and could not achieve what I could in fps compared to the old sensor. I've tried different camera apps and they all max out at 19-20 in these light conditions, which tells me that its most likely set in the kernel. I wonder if this sensor has not been optimized fully by HTC yet. I think they've worked with three different sensors so far: ST electronics, Sharp, and Omnivision. Perhaps its hard to accomidate them all in the kernel - but I'm just speculating. there.
My compromise is to shoot indoor video at the 60fps mode, because that caps out indoors at 40fps.
I've fully tested video outdoors and even this morning indoors when there was no artificial light source and it recorded at a full 30 fps.
If what I think is true - that its not fully optimized at the kernel level it could be something HTC can push out in an update. Perhaps its hard for them to try to support 3 different sensors and find a balance...But this is just speculation on my part. Now I've lived in the same house and conditions for the past year and the old sensor had an edge up on fps than the Omni. I looked at some old videos shot indoors last night and fps was hovering around 29-30. So far this is my only gripe.
A note about the Sensor:
Early on Brian at AnandTech when he reviewed the One talked a bit about the Sensor HTC used when building the first Ones, and he also compared the ST sensor to the Omnivision sensor, because that Omni made its debut at the 2013 CES. Here is his review:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6747/htc-one-review/5
I find it interesting that 2 companies made identical sensors, ST and Omnivision according to Brian.
Overall I'm happy I sent my device in and had the sensor replaced, because in the end, no amount of quick photo tools or photoshop would help the purple tint issue.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the info!
Rate this thread to express how well you can see the LG V20's display outdoors. In case you've been playing Minecraft for 18 months straight, you might not known how to get outside anymore. Well, find the door and walk through it. A higher rating indicates that it has very high maximum brightness and thus fantastic outdoor visibility in direct sunlight.
Then, drop a comment if you have anything to add!
It's OK. I have yet to own a phone where outdoor viewability is great.
Out door brightness is not good at all. I would give it a 6 at best. Coming from the best screen in the world the N7, this screen leaves alot to be desired. The N7 had unbelievable outdoor brightness.
Sent from my LG-H918 using XDA Free mobile app
Never got to see the N7 but V20 gets bright enough for use in the sun down here in South Florida provided you keep the brightness on auto. It doesn't get as bright if you turn off auto and put the brightness slider all the way up. The only thing bad is the colors get kind of washed out in max brightness mode but when you are viewing in direct sunlight, fine details get washed out anyways.
Not bad for me. I also don't expect 4k TV quality
my_handle said:
.... I also don't expect 4k TV quality
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lol true thing. i mean, why would you want a 4k display on a phone if not to drain your battery way faster? i did a test on my own about playing a video in 1440p (which is the closest to 4k in a phone so far) and i also did one with 1080p. and as i expected, it last longer with 1080p resolution than with 1440p. And their qualities looked exactly alike. So, 1440p is not that much of a difference in a phone from 1080p I play in 1080p all the time. Now, when i want to see something in true 4k, i cast from my phone to my 4k tv and voila! it wont directly affect the phone's battery (except for the amount of data that is being streamed from the phone to the tv which also causes battery draining, but significantly less battery drain than if played on my phone)
As much as I love my phone, I have spotted a few things that made me question the phone or Huawei.
First of all, I was playing with the three rear cameras and noticed that when I hovered my finger above the topmost camera (I think it's the 40mp one) or covered it, my finger didn't show up. Is that supposed to happen?
Secondly, when I take a picture in complete dark, there is always some noise present.
Thirdly, the screen has a gradient hue, darker on the left side as compared to the right. I have attached an image in this post. Please check for the gradient as I seem to see it on my screen. This is clearly obvious in a complete dark room.
Please check your phone and let me know if you're facing the same thing. Thank you.
The top one is used when zooming (5x) i think.
But funny enough the live view seems to not always use the same lens as the lens the photo is taken with.
If you zoom 5x and cover the top lens (or even when its dark ?) the live view switches to the main lens.
Sometime you can catch a glimp of your finger just before the switch happens.
And then when you take the zoomed in shot with the top lens covered you get a black picture, although the liveview shows an image.
I tested this in a fairly dim living room, so your mileage may vary if you test this in a bright office or outside in the sun.
For your noisy dark pictures. If you take a picture in a completely dark room (covered your screen ?) then the ISO is probably cranked up to the moon. So your going to see noise.
Maybe try in pro mode with a sane iso and exposure time (to avoid noise and hot pixels) and see how much noise you get then.
Yes, it seems so that when I zoom while covering the lens, the picture comes as the lens is covered. Thank you for clarifying that to me.
Can you please, if you don't mind, clarify the gradient hue of the screen? Or is it just mine? Thank you.
bk227865 said:
The top one is used when zooming (5x) i think.
But funny enough the live view seems to not always use the same lens as the lens the photo is taken with.
If you zoom 5x and cover the top lens (or even when its dark ?) the live view switches to the main lens.
Sometime you can catch a glimp of your finger just before the switch happens.
And then when you take the zoomed in shot with the top lens covered you get a black picture, although the liveview shows an image.
I tested this in a fairly dim living room, so your mileage may vary if you test this in a bright office or outside in the sun.
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Click to collapse
Yes, it seems so that when I zoom while covering the lens, the picture comes as the lens is covered. Thank you for clarifying that to me.
Can you please, if you don't mind, clarify the gradient hue of the screen? Or is it just mine? Thank you.
Others have answered your finger question. Not really sure what that point was about anyway?
Re: noise. What were you expecting? This isn't a full frame DSLR shooting raw. This is still a tiny sensor (just less tiny) with a highly compromised lens (miniaturisation comes at a cost). However, it is in my view head and shoulders above any other smartphone for delivering photos in poor / mixed light and at night when hand held - CM1 & 808 still beat it easily when on a tripod or similar.
Re: the screen. There will always be some gradient. If it's bad, I suggest you talk to Huawei or your provider / retailer's support and get a replacement. But since you say you only see it in a completely dark room, I can't imagine this is worthy of replacement.
birajrai said:
Yes, it seems so that when I zoom while covering the lens, the picture comes as the lens is covered. Thank you for clarifying that to me.
Can you please, if you don't mind, clarify the gradient hue of the screen? Or is it just mine? Thank you.
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It's my first oled phone so i don't have any reference on how good oled is supposed to look in very dark rooms.
If you can only see it on dim images in a dark room then your probaly noticing the "mura effect".
I cannot tell if your display is particulary bad or not. But i to can detect it looking at a uniform very dark gray backround in a very dark room. Under minimal light conditions i see no problems.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2107228
Edit : i checked your blue image , but my eyes cannot really spot any meaningfull hue differences even in a darkened room.
bk227865 said:
The top one is used when zooming (5x) i think.
But funny enough the live view seems to not always use the same lens as the lens the photo is taken with.
If you zoom 5x and cover the top lens (or even when its dark ?) the live view switches to the main lens.
Sometime you can catch a glimp of your finger just before the switch happens.
And then when you take the zoomed in shot with the top lens covered you get a black picture, although the liveview shows an image.
I tested this in a fairly dim living room, so your mileage may vary if you test this in a bright office or outside in the sun.
For your noisy dark pictures. If you take a picture in a completely dark room (covered your screen ?) then the ISO is probably cranked up to the moon. So your going to see noise.
Maybe try in pro mode with a sane iso and exposure time (to avoid noise and hot pixels) and see how much noise you get then.
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Click to collapse
The top lens is the tele lens. It only has 3x zoom. The 5x zoom is a hybrid zoom where it uses both lenses.