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A couple of months ago I bought my first PPC , a Wizard... I bought it second hand, so the paint is a little...oh well, a little missing I want to repaint it so this is why I started this thread.
Did anybody else painted his ? If yes, please post pcitures and a "How to" would be nice.
-What kind of paint?
-Any problems or even better, how not to ruin your Wizard...
Before I bought paint and stuff...I tried a little in Photoshop so I make up my mind about collors and style.
Here are a few ...clues ...I still didn't made up my mind.
I like the black with silver buttons one but the red one would be great with the guava bubbles theme.....
The red one is really cool
Makes me think of the neonode
there are two paint jobs done on Wizard. Search this forum for the 'white wizard'.
thx
Thx 2 Photoshop
Anybody has any new ideas ? ...
I'm still very interested in any ideas...
what paint should I use ? Acrilic or ...I don't know, spray...
I heard that car paint is very good and strong
And that acrilic paint responds to chemical agents even after 10 days , wich is bad
Any info is much apreciated
And of course...new color ideas
Hello
hanmin said:
there are two paint jobs done on Wizard. Search this forum for the 'white wizard'.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reviewed your opinion...and from site to site I've come to one of your links I think
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89422
That's exactly the paint I need (( It looks sooo nice.
But I'm not from US and I cannot order online from US, is not worth it...
I'm reading now his thread. I'll be back
I actually work at Micheals Arts and Crafts.
I have thought about it several times, but I have the 8125 version, so there isn't much to paint.
IF you were to try, I would recommend plastic paint with a glaze. But I don't know 100% if it'd work.
I wanna color mine, but like stated, I don't wanna ruin it.
Obviously you'd have to take it apart because if you didn't then you'd have key sticking problems.
Good luck to anyone who tries!
I updated the yellow one, on my girlfriends suggestion
I'm pretty sure that you'll have to tear it all apart. I have done this once...when I bought it, my display was scratched, so I fixed it with some fine sanding and a chemical solution(some kind of acid).
I read about other that painted their stuff...I'm not a native in english...so I don't understand all things...like someone said he used "Dupli-Colors Grey Primer, Gloss Black and Crystal Clear" ...what is that ?
Is there a shop that sells some paint especially for plastic ?...
I'm thinking about ... Pearl Glossy White and very shiny Gloss Black
I would prefer a camo one I tend to be different. I asked a friend of mine and he said that he had to take his apart to do it. I would not like to do this, but for fashion sake I may have to.
anichillus said:
I updated the yellow one, on my girlfriends suggestion
I'm pretty sure that you'll have to tear it all apart. I have done this once...when I bought it, my display was scratched, so I fixed it with some fine sanding and a chemical solution(some kind of acid).
I read about other that painted their stuff...I'm not a native in english...so I don't understand all things...like someone said he used "Dupli-Colors Grey Primer, Gloss Black and Crystal Clear" ...what is that ?
Is there a shop that sells some paint especially for plastic ?...
I'm thinking about ... Pearl Glossy White and very shiny Gloss Black
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dupi-Colors is a brand of paint here in the states that are made to match automotive colors. They come in either spray cans or small bottles for touchup. Hope this helps BTW the glossy white and gloss black sounds real nice. Keep us updated on how it goes if you decide to do this and of course take plenty of notes and photos of the process.
Kirby
Thx
Thx, and I will keep you posted. I'm plannig on starting this job monday, because right now I have allot on my head
For painting plastic, the best thing to use is vinyl dye. You can get it at any automotive store. It comes in a spray can. Its a very thin liquid that is absorbed by the plastic so the color is deeper than the surface. Scratches will not show as a different color. This also makes it almost idiot proof. Its really hard to force it to run.
If you are going to paint it after that, fine, but it will make the painting much easier and if something does scratch it, the surface underneath will be the matching color.
Keep in mind that with vinyl dye you can only go darker than the orignial color. It would work great for black. Using red on the silver plastic would result in a sliver/red color.
I have used this stuff on many plastic items and it always works perfectly. Paint is great for a super high gloss, but too much of a pain for anything that you will have in hand often. Paint adds layers over the plastic. Vinyl dye just changes its color.
I suggest you look up some pc case modding instructions. They are the masters of painting and dying plastic.
Thx man
That came in handy. I'm searching right now for some case modding forums. If you know any, please post them.
Almoust there !!!
Okay, so I delayed the whole thing a couple of days. Now today, when I want to the car paint store, I was looking for Black Gloss and sidef or pearl White, unfortunately they didn't have the white.
So ... it toked me about 5 hours, but it's ready. I left the buttons, for later next week, when I will go again at the store.
I bought a Gloss Black by Dupli Colours (a spray can)
I have applied 2 layers of paint, I will apply another one next week when I get the pearl white.
I'm very satisfied of how it came out, trust me. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures before , too cought up in the game but you can see "remains" of what it once was , only by looking at the upper buttons.
Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's been a while since I've last used a camera
By the way, I also painted the mouse, because it was geting rusty...All is Black and Silver
And other pictures
...other pictures
I forgot to mention, My mouse's and Wizard's original colour were all grey silver, so it was kinda difficult to paint black over silver
Hi
You are very brave
I have been thinking about doing this myself.
If I may give some constructive criticism.
Painting from a spray can is a very delicate process.
I can see by the pics that the surface was not prepped 100%.
Try this
1. Use very fine water sand paper and smooth all areas to be painted, they must be supper smooth
2. Be sure no dust or stray dirt on surfaces
3. Use a plastic primer for first coat
4. When you spray use a small amount of spray per coat (your first coat must only just be visible, It must look like a fine dust layer on the plastic)
5. Let it dry for 5 hours at least (If you paint over a non dry layer it stops the paint from curing properly and it will chip or scratch off) Then sand again using super fine water paper then apply next coat.
If done right you will only start to cover all areas completely after 4th or 5th coat. THE BIGEST KILLER OF PAINT JOBS IS HASTE. Take your time, you need to spend a few days to get the proper finish.
6. Do 5 or 6 super fine coats and then 2 coats of clear gloss (same process between each coat.
Always be sure paint can is well shaken and use a paper napkin to clean the spray nozzle between each pass.
If you are in a cold damp climate drying time can be as long as 8 hours.
There is a difference between dry to the touch and cured paint.
This is a mouse I did a while back.
This is 2 clear coats from being done
The completed project
Hope this helps
Jules
that the move right that my-dude holla Im go some 8125 Clear's on the way all in production with the clear keybord's haoll @ your boy I will send you free bodie's when my freight clear's
Do what it do my mangggggg
By: Wesley Clouden
Mobile Content Producer
First, I didn't understand a word of what 1nappiee007 said that's cool tough.
Second.
@ ZaJules ,
Like I said, my pic's were not that great
And I acted as you said. First layer very thin (very very thin) and so on.
I would say that no1 enemy is the dust. I have washed the parts and used fine sand paper. The spray that I used was dry in 10 minutes. And still, like I said, I hate dust
I already said that the job is not over yet. If I was going to apply a matte color, it would have been easy, but with gloss...it's different.
I wonder why did you said that "I can see by the pics that the surface was not prepped 100%" What is the picture that made you say that ?
I'm not arguing, i'm curious, because .... it's really shiny and smooth. Perhaps you meant the mouse, because there you are almost right. I don't know why, but it's surface is not as smooth as the wizard's ... mabe because I used more paint...anyhow, it still looks great, glossy.. Sorry that the pictures don't satisfy you, to be honest, I don't like them either.
The only thing that I was not so happy about is that I didn't focus enough on the small parts , like sides and ends ...anyhow, I will know better next time
Sorry for my english
And from mistakes we learn, what would life be without a little constructive criticism ? "Hey, I just killed a kid ! , -Whell, try to avoid it next time.It's ok dough "
any news about the paint job
anichillus said:
A couple of months ago I bought my first PPC , a Wizard... I bought it second hand, so the paint is a little...oh well, a little missing I want to repaint it so this is why I started this thread.
Did anybody else painted his ? If yes, please post pcitures and a "How to" would be nice.
-What kind of paint?
-Any problems or even better, how not to ruin your Wizard...
Before I bought paint and stuff...I tried a little in Photoshop so I make up my mind about collors and style.
Here are a few ...clues ...I still didn't made up my mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
made your mind up allready?
i personally liked the idea of a andy warhole kind of thing
excuse me ... andy warhole ? I don't understand...sorry . please explain
And I only painted the base...I could go red or white...or ...why not, green on the buttons
By the way, my wizard was just like the one in your avatar ... only ...used...allot
Anyway....I got to get some sleep ... i didn't sleep all nikgt...some darn project (( see you later
hii people i need some help here i have bought a samsung galaxy s with a broken screen glass thinking it would be cheap and easy to replace just the glass, and i have bought the glass from ebay and can tear down the phone but i dont know what to do when i get to the screen how do i seperate it and is their a touch layer under their or what and if anyone could suggest any good tutorials or pictures to help me understand then that would be great because it is not as easy as it seems lol :/ and please dont suggest that i buy a new screen all together because i do not have enough money and i might aswell buy a new phone for the price of an AMOLED lol thnx and plz feel free to PM me
You're wrong from the very beginning
The hardest part to separate in the Galaxy S is the AMOLED screen and the gorilla glass
because they are strongly attached together. It would be very hard if not impossible to separate them without damaging the AMOLED screen
i had this problem but there is help .. i for one done it the hard way and cracked the glass more on the screen very hard to do .. then picked it away with a very small metal pick . look at one of my posts its on here and trust me can be done and then it gets a bit harder putting new glass back on as one the touch dont work right but dw that can be sorted first buy a really thin screen protector then lay that on then lay the new glass over that and touch works fine .. hope this helps but there is a high level of one skill and to a real big risk of fakin up ur screen when picking away at it ..
thnx thats gave me allot more confidence and hope in doing this and succeeding thnx u have inspired me to actually attempt it and i myt aswell because if it works then iv done it the cheep option and if i dont try il never know if the cheap option is possible and achieveable and could uu post a link of your thread please so i can read it much thnx
daleford2k10 said:
i had this problem but there is help .. i for one done it the hard way and cracked the glass more on the screen very hard to do .. then picked it away with a very small metal pick . look at one of my posts its on here and trust me can be done and then it gets a bit harder putting new glass back on as one the touch dont work right but dw that can be sorted first buy a really thin screen protector then lay that on then lay the new glass over that and touch works fine .. hope this helps but there is a high level of one skill and to a real big risk of fakin up ur screen when picking away at it ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how did you crack the gorilla glass more what tool did you use and how plz reply need help thnx
I'm in your same situation, and the solution that daleford2k10 proposes sounds great.
But I have some questions to ask you:
1) Where did u get the glass replacement?
2) What about the touch buttons (menu and back)? Because as I have seen in some disassembling videos they are strong glued. It is possible to get out (or break) the glass above them?
3) Did u tried with a hair-dryer first?
Thanks for your help
Falipene said:
I'm in your same situation, and the solution that daleford2k10 proposes sounds great.
But I have some questions to ask you:
1) Where did u get the glass replacement?
2) What about the touch buttons (menu and back)? Because as I have seen in some disassembling videos they are strong glued. It is possible to get out (or break) the glass above them?
3) Did u tried with a hair-dryer first?
Thanks for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
iv not tried anything yet as the hair dryer is concerned i got my glass from ebay
www (dot) ebay (dot) co (dot) uk/itm/Front-Glass-Lens-LCD-and-touch-screen-not-included-Samsung-Galaxy-S-i9000-/170739151176?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item27c0d8b148#ht_2226wt_1270[/url]
but i dont know if you are a uk resident but you can get it from Hong Kong too and im taking it easy asin trying to get as much info as possible first to do this before i do it oh and i dont think the buttons will cause that much of a problem and anyway if they do break but the screen doesn't its still a win as the buttons would only cost abit and i have also seen some disassembly videos but none separating the glass if you have could you post a link thnx
Finally I got the glass from ebay (the same one as the guy of this post http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21224865&postcount=238), but delivered from Hong Kong.
I haven't been able to find any videos of this neither... But as both jondale and devonblue4u say, I think it would be just a question of patience and being careful.
Good luck! As I think you will receive your glass first than me (it's going to take around 15 days according to the seller), please post some photos or videos once u do it.
success?
i am about to buy a SGS 1 smashed, but any of you two guys succeed in replacing the glass ONLY? i know i have just bought a dead thread back lol but sorry need to know. thanks
I remember reading somewhere a long time ago that it was done successfully once, but the person who did it had access to the glue used for sticking the screen to the glass, so he wasn't normal by any means. My suggestion? Suck it up and get both the screen and the display. The glass was not meant to be replaceable on its own.
I'm in the process of replacing mine. You can get the glass separated from the amoled using lots of patience,a heat gun, and very thin plastic of some sort. I used a variety of things including a business card, credit card and a very thin steel flat mrasuring tool. The key is heat and moving slowly. Lots of videos on youtube. when you are done there will be lots of glue on the screen, but it comes off by carefully rubbing it. Also, as crazy as it sounds wd40 gets rid of the rest. Saw this on youtube and was skeptical, but tried it and it worked. Cleaned the amoled with rubbing alcohol afterwards. I'm currently using my S with just the amoled while I wait for the new glass too arrive. Also, with the new glass, you won't put glue on the amoled, but around the outsides - again, youtube is yourfriend.
Hello guys, I have a Samsung Galaxy S GT-i9000 ...
I found some code for this machine, and place a code of the camera, and I was without a camera, now I can not go back to the camera, and some systems already installed some android to fix this error .... will someone help me?
very grateful ...: Confuso:
deejayspinz said:
I'm in the process of replacing mine. You can get the glass separated from the amoled using lots of patience,a heat gun, and very thin plastic of some sort. I used a variety of things including a business card, credit card and a very thin steel flat mrasuring tool. The key is heat and moving slowly. Lots of videos on youtube. when you are done there will be lots of glue on the screen, but it comes off by carefully rubbing it. Also, as crazy as it sounds wd40 gets rid of the rest. Saw this on youtube and was skeptical, but tried it and it worked. Cleaned the amoled with rubbing alcohol afterwards. I'm currently using my S with just the amoled while I wait for the new glass too arrive. Also, with the new glass, you won't put glue on the amoled, but around the outsides - again, youtube is yourfriend.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also looking forward to replace the glass screen on my i9000 but I couldnt find any youtube video on how to do it. Can you give me a link? I would also like to know what kind of glue is needed. Thanks.
I saw a few guys complaining about the scratched/bumped bezel which looks ugly because the paint will reveal the metal underneath.
Well, I also damaged my watch by accidentally hitting it . Permanent markers are not a good solution because they do not last.
Apparently the bezel is made out of aluminium and only the watch body is made out of steel, that why, maybe, the bezel is less resistant.
Last evening though, an idea came to my mind, which I also applied on the watch. The result is promising .
Using some fine sandpaper (600) and some real paper after that, I completely removed the paint from the top of the bezel.
As a technique, I laid the sandpaper on a flat surface (table) and then I pressed the watch on it while rubbing it. After the paint was completely removed, I did the same operation but using a regular sheet of paper (to add a nice finish on the metal surface).
Please be careful: you have to press the watch against the sandpaper (laid on a flat, hard surface), not the other way around. In this way you leave no room for mistakes and the revealed metal will be uniform and nice, w/o weird edges.
This is the result.
That actually looks really nice! I'm Impressed with it . Just out of Curiosity what watchface is that also as it suits the watch really well.
That's a custom watch face for WatchMaker (built by me). You can download it from here.
I'm not sure I have the b... sorry guts for this kind of job
First Hardware Mod!
That looks great! I know it's just a matter of time before I will need to do this. I have sanded/polished like this before and may I warn everyone:
Make sure you keep the sandpaper flat. If it rolls up under the face it will scratch the screen.​Better yet, only do this with a screen protector.
Really nice. You should offer your services for a fee, to do this for others afraid to do it themselves. Not that you'd offer any guarantees, but you have proof you know how to do it right .
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Wow that's a great fix for this. Showed the scratches on my bezel to the lg team at ces and they were surprised and would follow up with me after the show. They said they hadn't come across this issue (which I find hard to believe). Like you mentioned OP the bezel is aluminum and the lower parts are steel and seem to be much more durable paint wise.
I'm hoping they might send me a new watch with some better paint but if not I'm definitely going to use this method!
it does look good, however once you do this there is no going back ........
if you want a better finish you may want to try crocus paper after you have removed the paint on the bezel, crocus paper is very fine and may give a smoother finish.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocus_cloth
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the paint, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
ro_explorer said:
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the pain, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So very true.
I personally think that looks fantastic and a milliion times better than a scratched bezel. Mine hasn't recieved any scratches yet, but seeing your results, I'm no longer panicked about that happening.
Thank you for a great solution!
yes of course, I like the look of it too
How long have you had the watch since you did this? Is there any signs of corrosion on the exposed Aluminium?
ro_explorer said:
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the paint, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the operation on January 2nd (when I posted on the forum ). One full week passed since then .. no signs on the metal surface whatsoever (expected, it's aluminum and this does not corrode).
Here is a photo from today.
ro_explorer said:
I saw a few guys complaining about the scratched/bumped bezel which looks ugly because the paint will reveal the metal underneath.
Well, I also damaged my watch by accidentally hitting it . Permanent markers are not a good solution because they do not last.
Apparently the bezel is made out of aluminium and only the watch body is made out of steel, that why, maybe, the bezel is less resistant.
Last evening though, an idea came to my mind, which I also applied on the watch. The result is promising .
Using some fine sandpaper (600) and some real paper after that, I completely removed the paint from the top of the bezel.
As a technique, I laid the sandpaper on a flat surface (table) and then I pressed the watch on it while rubbing it. After the paint was completely removed, I did the same operation but using a regular sheet of paper (to add a nice finish on the metal surface).
Please be careful: you have to press the watch against the sandpaper (laid on a flat, hard surface), not the other way around. In this way you leave no room for mistakes and the revealed metal will be uniform and nice, w/o weird edges.
This is the result.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had my watch for a little over a week and don't recall hitting it against anything but this morning noticed my bezel has a scratch longer than half an inch. Doing a Google search brought me here.
I was going to try your method today. I understand using the 600 grit sandpaper to remove the rest of the paint from the bezel but how does the regular paper help the finish? My uneducated guess would have been to try a finer grit sandpaper such as 1200 instead of the paper.
You can use whatever finer than 600 you have (even coarser but you may risk it going coarser that that).
Unfortunately, 600 was the finest I had in house at the moment that why I used id. After that though, the metal finish was matte, missing that fine polishing .... there is where the regular paper got into action. If you use a regular laser printer paper sheet, it will act as a very very fine sandpaper, enough to give that fine polishing on the pure metal (aluminium in this case - soft metal, no other reason.
ro_explorer said:
You can use whatever finer than 600 you have (even coarser but you may risk it going coarser that that).
Unfortunately, 600 was the finest I had in house at the moment that why I used id. After that though, the metal finish was matte, missing that fine polishing .... there is where the regular paper got into action. If you use a regular laser printer paper sheet, it will act as a very very fine sandpaper, enough to give that fine polishing on the pure metal (aluminium in this case - soft metal, no other reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You sir are a genius - your solution actually makes the watch look better than before the problem.
dzyuba said:
You sir are a genius - your solution actually makes the watch look better than before the problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please tell us what did you do exactly to the watch, step by step. Thanks.
My request to any other people who want to adopt this method, please record a video of the process. Then upload it to youtube and share it with us. Thanks.
The entire process that I used is described in detail in the first post of this thread.
There is also the possibility to use a nail file (there are some guys who did that and the results are quite nice as well).
Guys,
This looks fantastic. Perhaps even better than stock. I've got a 1/4" scratch, so not quite ready to take the plunge...but certainly thinking about it.
-Doc
I should probably post this here also. I managed to ding up my watch pretty badly crashing my skateboard, and a user suggested I try this method. I did it a little differently by finishing with a 3000 grit and using metal polish cream on the exposed metal to give it a nice shine. Here are before and after pictures.
The metal polish is definitely adding a nice touch. Thanks for the info.
// sent from my phone //
Hi guys!
I am in need of advice from you owners of the phone.
At the moment i have a galaxy nexus, and it kind of has done its job, so i was thinking of changing it with the moto X 2014.
My priorities are materials, dimensions and price. That's what brought me here.
The main reason i'm in doubt is because i've found an online website selling the white version, bamboo back, at 349 euros, which is a great price; but i'm more into the black front, which can be found on other websites, with the plastic back, at 430ish euros.
The question is: bamboo and lower price or plastic and higher price? Is the bamboo back really worth it? How does the plastic feel?
I've seen as many video reviews as can be found. Some say the bamboo feels fantastic, some say it looks like a sticker and gets easily scratched. What do you guys think?
On the other hand the plastic is said to have a good feel and not look like cheap plastic at all.
What is your opinion on this?
What's your opinion of the phone after a while using it? Would you reccomend it?
Thanks in advance, have a good day everyone ^^
check if both are the same capacity i.e 16 GB vs 32 GB has a considerable price differnece.
A lot of people have complained about the wood peeling off. It looks nice, but I have serious doubts about its durability. The soft touch plastic actually has a great feel to it, but aside from black I don't know what other colors have the soft touch. My first one was soft touch black but I exchanged it for black leather, which I absolutely love.
As far as my overall opinion of the phone goes- it's amazing. I've tried all the other flagship phones and there is no doubt in my mind that the X is the best smartphone on the market right now. Get it, you won't be disappointed.
einstien_ncp said:
check if both are the same capacity i.e 16 GB vs 32 GB has a considerable price differnece.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for making me notice that unfortunately, they are both 16 gigs.
_MetalHead_ said:
A lot of people have complained about the wood peeling off. It looks nice, but I have serious doubts about its durability. The soft touch plastic actually has a great feel to it, but aside from black I don't know what other colors have the soft touch. My first one was soft touch black but I exchanged it for black leather, which I absolutely love.
As far as my overall opinion of the phone goes- it's amazing. I've tried all the other flagship phones and there is no doubt in my mind that the X is the best smartphone on the market right now. Get it, you won't be disappointed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot for your answer, it really helped a lot. Too bad moto maker is only available in America, anyway the black front black back looks really elegant
X 2014
I just purchased the Moto X 2014 Pure Edition (64gb). I'm coming from a Samsung Galaxy S4 GPE which boasts a bigger, removable battery and removable storage. What drew me to this phone was the built in motorola software and the "OK Google" functionality. Overall I'm finding the battery to be a little lack luster; it doesn't hold up like my S4. However, the processor is quick and snappy, and the device overall has, in my opinion, a nice fit and finish. I purchased the black back with the dark silver accents. The phone has a nice weight, and it doesn't feel like it will fly out of my small hands like some lighter phones do. The metal on the rim and the black standard back are also both pleasing to the touch. The back plastic is almost soft to the touch; it isn't your standard shiny plastic. My fiancé has the previous generation Moto X with the dark wood back; one important thing to keep in mind, you're probably going to have this in a case to protect it. This renders the wood completely pointless in my opinion, even with a clear backed case. The OS takes up a fair amount of space, and I would recommend getting the most storage you can afford given that you can't expand it down the road. This phone, unlike the previous model, does not feel cheap in any way. I would easily group it in with S4-S5 quality.
I would encourage you to consider a phone with a bigger battery if you plan to fuss with it regularly throughout your day, or if you don't have a desk job where you can just leave it plugged in. But, otherwise, it's a great little phone with superb software, and I am fairly pleased with it thus far.
Here's my take.... I too had a Galaxy Nexus and then switch to the 2013 Moto X Developer Edition. Loved the Nexus with Paranoid Android. Loved the '13 X and its similar size.
Then I broke my '13 X and got upgraded to the "14 X Pure Edition with a Bamboo back. I have to say that it looks and feels really good. Of course its going into a case, but a clear TPU one. Just got the replacement in today and unlocking the boot loader tonight.
I'd say its a pretty decent phone if you don't mind the on screen buttons. I'm sure you mind coming from a Nexus. By the way, the radio in this phone is way better than Galaxy S4 that I previously owned too.
Mariusrapi said:
Thanks for making me notice that unfortunately, they are both 16 gigs.
Thanks a lot for your answer, it really helped a lot. Too bad moto maker is only available in America, anyway the black front black back looks really elegant
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep, that was my first one, it was gorgeous. The only reason why I swapped it for a leather one was because my buddy was twisting my arm.
I have a white bamboo and a base model black on black. I have had no issues with the bamboo peeling or scratching. I'm actually on my 3rd bamboo phone because I had a clumsy week and broke a couple screens. none of them had peeling issues. I like the bamboo and I wouldn't trade it for anything. I love it. the black plastic one is scratched and marred on the back already and IMO is not as scratch resistant as the wood. I left my real camera at work, but I will post pics tomorrow so you can see what I mean.
I have a bamboo one with a black front and love it. I briefly had an S5 but got bored of it as it was to similar to my old phone (S3) so sent it back. The Moto X is a real head turner with the bamboo back and so far I've had no issues with it peeling or scratching and don't use a case.
Regarding the battery I do charge the phone every night but that seems pretty standard with smart phones. Also I've noticed someone at my work who has a HTC M8 and she is charging hers at least once every day, I never need to do this.
Plus also you can get a turbo charger for the moto x which charges the phone ridiculously fast, so its win, win.
rob342 said:
plastic one is scratched and marred on the back already and IMO is not as scratch resistant as the wood....bla bla bla...... I will post pics tomorrow so you can see what I mean.
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here you go. see attached.
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i understand the fear of peeling, but i don't know why wood gets such a bad wrap. if plastic was so tough we'd make houses out of it, but we use wood for a good reason, from the framing to the floor. i make signs for a living. same thing. people come in here not wanting wood because they think it won't last. Outdoors, the MDO plywood signs i make last about 15 years before they even start to show their age. Outdoor plastic signs i make get brittle, crack, warp, and discolor after about two. What i'm saying seems consistent with this picture of two 5 month old phones
rob342 said:
here you go. see attached.
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i understand the fear of peeling, but i don't know why wood gets such a bad wrap. if plastic was so tough we'd make houses out of it, but we use wood for a good reason, from the framing to the floor. i make signs for a living. same thing. people come in here not wanting wood because they think it won't last. Outdoors, the MDO plywood signs i make last about 15 years before they even start to show their age. Outdoor plastic signs i make get brittle, crack, warp, and discolor after about two. What i'm saying seems consistent with this picture of two 5 month old phones
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That comparison doesn't really work. The wood on the x is veneer, and it's the adhesive that's failing. If it was a thick piece of wood, I wouldn't question its durability, but it is super thin, probably around .5mm. No house is built from wood that thin.
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_MetalHead_ said:
That comparison doesn't really work. The wood on the x is veneer, and it's the adhesive that's failing. If it was a thick piece of wood, I wouldn't question its durability, but it is super thin, probably around .5mm. No house is built from wood that thin.
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which one shows its age more in the pics?
rob342 said:
which one shows its age more in the pics?
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What does that have to do with the adhesive failing?
Ive looked at several websites for a replacement chassis in white. So far ive only found internal grids sections and replacement front glass and led. My nice new note took a nice hit directly to concrete the other day and put some very large divets in the aluminum frame. It would be easy to rwplace if i could find the part. Can anybody help? Thanks in advance
This place looks promising:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/291417013596?nav=SEARCH