Last night my cord got broken.
I repaired it and it was going so well.
Until I accidentally pulled the ground wire from plug
It didn't charge but when I connect the ground wire (the ground wire near the usb plug...the other side, I mean the usb was cutted so it has two sides. The side with the usb plug and the side with plug that connects the tab. I accidentally pulled the ground wire on the side of that connects the tab) to the data wire, it indicate that it charges but always 0%.
I left my tab to charge overnight(still indicating that it's charging) and when I tried to turn it on. It won't
So basically. The illustration is like this (underscores are for spacing)
____________[+]---------------------[+]
Tablet <PLUG--[-]----------------------[-] USB Male Connector> Computer
____________[Data]---------[Ground]
____________[Ground]--broken--
_________________ditched--[Data]
I'm just curious, what could have possible happened?
The device is GT-P3100 or Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7.0
Related
My 18 month old Tytn is not longer charger via the wall chager or car charge. But strangely it will charge is connected to the PC. I have tried a few different wall chargers including the original one and also test the wall charger on other charge by USB plug devices.
I have done a hard reset and also re-installed the stock rom.
Any other idea's ?
Same strange thing happens to me since 2 weeks.
No Charge with power adapter, tried different modells.
No Charge in car
But Charge via USB from PC . And Activesync works...
Any Idea would be very helpful.
tytn2user said:
My 18 month old Tytn is not longer charger via the wall chager or car charge. But strangely it will charge is connected to the PC. I have tried a few different wall chargers including the original one and also test the wall charger on other charge by USB plug devices.
I have done a hard reset and also re-installed the stock rom.
Any other idea's ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here, no fix, just dealing with it, hoping the charge by usb doesn't crap out.
A few months ago I receive a wallcharger from a friend who had a HTC TOUCH, as I inspected the voltage on my original TYTN II charger and the touch charger I figured out the touch charger would do the job, so I plugged in and for a brief moment the amber light go on, but almost inmediately it went of, so I guess it would not work with my phone.
But I rechecked the voltage and got me thinking what could be wrong, and after messing around a little bit with the charger and the usb plug I found out that for some reason if I plug the usb jack all the way down it doesn't make contact with the phone usb, so I have to plug it half way to make it contact and charge the phone.
Maybe that would be your case.
Good Luck.
in my situation the yellow loading light of the TytnII is even switching on when I connect the power charger . But even after being yellow=loading for a full night .
No Change in battery status
Freecall
My Tilt had a loose Mini-USB connector thing.
:S
OK. After reading people having the same problem I decided to pull mine down and take a look. Expecting to find a blown SM fuse on the circuit board. To my surprise I did not find any SM fuses in that area of the USB plug. While I had it apart I noticed some damage to the USB socket, viewable from the outside without having to pull it apart . I re-assembled the unit and VERY VERY carefully tweaked the damaged pin (pin 1 in my case) with the tiniest sewing needle I could find in the sewing kit. I bent the gold color wire back into a position matching the other 4 and pulled it into a wall charger and it started charging. So the problem in my case was a damaged pin 1 in the USB plug visible from the outside.
Charging is done by the two outside pins.
For the pinouts check out http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml Picture on the left hand side of the screen called MINI is the same as looking at the plug on the tytn from the outside.
While looking at the plug with a magnifier I could clearly see that pin 1 was collapsed into the plastic center part and would not be making contact with the USB charger when inserted.
I will need to take more care when inserting a USB plug from now on and reduce the amount of time I used the plug. I have been geocaching with my TytnII the last few weeks and it has resulted in a lot of plugging in each time when returning to the car. This practice will have to stop for me if I want to get more millage out of my tytnII.
What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
hkk said:
What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of the car chargers only deliver 500mAh - when your phone is plugged in, go to settings-> about phone and see if it says AC or USB charging. You also need a car charger that is rated at more then 500 mA.
But even with a charger rated at more then 500mA - the phone still thinks it is plugged into USB. I got around this by modifying a USB cable - I connected the data lines together on the micro usb end and the phone thinks it has AC power and charging keeps up with GPS.
BTW I am using a 2 port car charger (2 1Amp USB ports) Griffin I think, but i tested with many others, and after other internet searching realized the wall charger shorts the data wires and we can mimic this on a car charger.
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
hkk said:
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No issues for me. First - use a decent USB cable. Also, see this thread for more info... one of my posts is page 2. Page one shows you an easier hack for testing - no cutting required.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=774665&highlight=battery
I took a USB cable and did all my work on the micro end - where the connector for the phone is. I stripped back some of the outer insulation, so i could work on the inner wires. I didn't cut the whole end off. The two wires that are not red and black are the data wires. I cut them, stripped them, and soldered them together. These 2 wires are from the micro plug end, so i created a loop back or connection of the 2 data wires at the plug end.
Phone
V+ Red wire -------------------------------USB Plug @ Car Charger
D+ ----------------| connect
D- ----------------| these 2 wires
V- Black wire ------------------------------ USB Plug
Today I managed to get my NookColor cable caught in my car door while I was getting in my car to head to work. This mangled the cable up pretty good. After much swearing and a trip to Barnes and Nobles I purchased a replacement cable. With the new cable in hand I figured I might as well take the end apart on the broken one to see how it was wired up. Using a pocket knife I forced the joint where the two pieced of plastic are joined together apart. The end result is rather interesting.
The first image is of the top side of the connector. This is where the little LED is located. The second image is of the bottom side of the connector. The third is of the bottom side of the connector with the shield removed.
The interesting thing is that the connector does not actually have the four standard pads for connecting to the normal USB pins in the NC's socket. It only connects to the twelve extra pins at the back of the NC's socket. Two of those extra pins must be for the standard USB communications. At least two more are used for the power connection to the NC. That leaves eight unknown pins. One or two of which probably controls the LED on the cable. As soon as I can find my multimeter, I plan on doing a continuity check between the USB cable wires and the pins in the connector. Any other suggestions of things I should be looking for?
I read in passing that the deeper socket on the nc, that makes regular microUSB cables not charge the nc, relates to the extra contacts needed to charge the bigger battery more quickly. Will try to find the reference-
Regular cables DO charge... At 500mha, the stock rom does not she charging but it does around 10%/hr if idle.
There are certainly several ground pins which should be ready to find. finding those will help narrow it down.
Sent from my NookColor using XDA App
Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
The same thing happened with me too(my cable also broke, and i decided to experiment with it). Here's what i found out.
1. Three wires in the usb cables are solely meant for charging.
2. If only two (ground an one live) wires are connected, the stock cable charges nook like a ordinary usb cable(very slow).
3. The nooks usb cable tip had 3-4 more outputs which were not connected to any wires in the usb cable(they could be anything from mic input to video output).
I was trying to get more info on these extra outputs by soldering some wires to them but it needs very fine soldering, i couldn't achieve that and i broke mine entirely.
That reminds me can anyone send me a extra cable as am not in U.S(so B&N won't send me one) and am sick of waiting for 10 hours before i can play with my nook again.
mjf0000000 said:
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uummm... Don't think this is true as I charged my Nook just last night with it turned off.
I'm sure you have this, but for anyone else who would like to look at the standard USB pinouts.
While I'm on the topic, did the Nova disection help in determining the Nook end of the connections?
the last time i looked, Nova hadn't really looked that close at the USB...they were focusing on the wifi/BT chip.
very nice was planning on doing this myself one day soon...any chance you can go in a bit closer and get clearer pics of the traces on the pcb? Would really help to decipher it.
Interested to see a breakdown of a standard micro usb vs nooks for comparisons sake
A couple of things:
-The NC connector has a row of 12 pins, but does not have any pins that match with the "legacy" microusb pins. At least 4 of the signals on that connector duplicate the microusb pins (gnd, d+, d-, +5). IIRC there are two +5 pins on that row and three grounded pins.
-Hooking only +5 and gnd to the USB end of the stock cable causes the NC to charge at max current draw. I made a short USB interposer that does this. I suppose you could put some carefully applied tape over the middle pins if you wanted to try. Here are some measurements I did of various ways of powering the NC a while back:http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=9410625&postcount=243
mjf0000000 said:
Khaytsus: i stand corrected. Found the reference: barnes& noble 'book clubs' (ie forums) thread on "things that you should know about the NookCOLOR." A non nook color USB won't charge it when in a wall socket, but may keep the battery from at least going down.
Even a NC branded USB isn't officially expected to charge a NC, if plugged into a pc USB port. Neverrtheless, some say it trickle charges when left atrached to a computer all night (like 8hrs). In a wall socket it supposed to charge in 4 -5 hours.
Interestingly, NC won't charge at all if turned entirely off while plugged in.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one interesting finding to note. Most USB wall adapters are 500mA. I happened to have a USB wall adapter that is 1A. With my 1A, I was able not only able to keep the battery from draining, but I was able to replenish it (although it was very slow) As a comparison, the USB adapter from B&N is capable of 2A.
I will try and get closer pics of the PCB when I get home from work. I just need to get better lighting than my dark home office.
I just bought a new Nexus 7 (2013), it is about a week old.
Last night I left the supplied ASUS charger and micro-USB cable plugged in overnight (fortunately the cable was not connected to the Nexus.) When I woke up this morning the micro-USB plug had literally melted, with plastic oozing out of the plug housing and through the plug itself. Had the cable been plugged in it would have destroyed the Nexus USB connector. I've seen several reports on the web of this scenario but none with a clear explanation of where the "fire" started. See the attachment.
Does ASUS have a problem here? In any case my plan for now is to use a wireless charger, it is too scary to think what would have happened to the tablet had the cable been plugged in.
I've opened a case with ASUS and they've asked me to RMA the cable so they can inspect it.
First off; post this in the right section. The 2013 folks would want to see it
Second.. Is there something in the USB cable on the 2013, like an LED, etc? What in the world could cause such a short in the plug of the cable like that? Scary.
Sorry, I didn't notice there was a separate topic for the (2013) Nexus 7. I'll replicate my original post there.
There aren't any components on the cable other than a USB Type A male connector on one end and a micro-USB male on the other.
Hi,
A little bit of background:
I had previously converted my original nexus tablet into a clock. I followed a guide on YouTube by cutting the wires from the battery. Then, just connecting the red wires from the battery to a spliced up micro USB cable (red wires). Trimming all other wires. Cut a hole at the back of the case so that the USB port can pass through and connecting straight to the USB charger. The modified clock has been running steadily for more than 5 years now. Aside from power failures which I need to turn it on and turn on the clock app back, no other issues. The battery indicator is 0%, but charging. Direct power, no battery in tablet.
So I thought the same technique would work for the galaxy tab s 8.4. Did the same like the nexus tablet. It kind of work, until I noticed the battery is draining. It starts at full charge (100%), then it will slowly drain to 0% and the battery will die. At first I thought I did a bad job at soldering or connnecting the wires, but after a week of trial and error, I finally found the problem. With the tab s, direct connection does not work. The battery appears full, then slowly charges down. The tablet does not detect a charge, even when it is actually connected to the wall.
Does anyone know how to fix this problem?
One method I did think was rewiring the battery csbles so that it loops to itself. Red to red, black to black, without the spliced micro USB cable. Then power will come directly from the micro USB port. I noticed that if I connect the charger to the port, there is a charge. But since I have two power sources going to the tablet, connecting through USB port will cause the tablet to turn off. Maybe overload or something.
I don't think removing the battery connection and just using the micro USB port port for direct power supply will solve the problem as I did try to just connect it while removing the power source which is attached directly to the battery. It did register a charge, but it can't turn on.
Thanks.
You may be able to fix this with a resistor, but I really don't know much about that at all.
I know you can make a "download mode" cable, to get certain devices into download mode...
Here's another - .