Using old handset hardware instead of the RK stuff? - Android Auto General

Hello Comunity,
i am asking myself if it isnt possible to use the power of my old OPO to increase the hardware power of my headunit. It needs actually around 3 minutes until i can stream from soundcloud or use it for navigation. is there a way to use the Oneplus Ram and CPU with the headunits screen and auxilieries?
BR

Related

Stock headphone controls broken / laggy

First off, apologies if anything like this has been posted before, but I've done a search to no avail.
I've been using the stock N1 headphones since I got the phone at launch, mostly for the remote functions as I tend to skip music a fair bit. Recently i've noticed that the phone no longer displays the headphone icon when they're plugged in and the buttons are becoming unresponsive.
At first it seemed like something was simply eating up phone CPU power, as repeated presses would eventually kick them into life (sometimes having them register 3 or 4 presses at once) but over time the buttons have simply ceased to function altogether. The headphones themselves still work, it's just the controls that are dead.
I've tried several different media players (most of which attempt to intercept the remote presses) and they ALL have the same issues. I've even replaced the stock music player with the modded one doing the rounds in custom roms and in the apps forum to no avail (and yes, all of these media players were only used one at a time to avoid them interfering with eachother).
Been using custom roms for a LOOONG time and these issues are pretty new.
So main question is - is this likely to be a software issue or are my headphones just dead?
If they're dead can anyone recommend decent replacements that can be shipped to the UK and have inline controls like the stock ones?

[Q] Headset music control for O2X

Hi,
I see this as a common problem with android phones. I saw a couple of topics but for different phones so I wonder if there is a way on O2X (or any app) that would do the trick as such as on the iPhone music player (as it supports any Headset with 3 button control)
The headset I was using with my old iPhone has 3 buttons with MIC. 2 for volume and the one in the center for pause/play/skip/reverse and so on.
Can I still use it with O2X? Any ideas or suggestions? This is my first Android phone, and I really did not want to lose this feature.
Thanks
I Just tested my old Iphone headset and the pause/volum/next does not work.
But the sound is normal (have tested other phones (SGS) which does not even give ordinary sound, except when holding play button down).
The Pause/Play button works in Spotify... (no volume/next)
EDIT
Oh... i see you are looking for a app that fixes this...
Looks like Im in need of that as well...
The closest i have gotten is winamp single tap to play/pause double to skip and tripple to go back
Sent from my LG-P990 using XDA App
The winamp sounds almost what I am looking for. It would better though to have an android feature tha would suppprt thos headphone control regardless of the player being used.
Wonder if it is a hardware limitation though. Find it surprising android not already supporting headset controls.
It was nice to have the phone in my pocket and be able to control the music without having to reach to it. Bit disappointed but other than that the phon is great and the android experience is fa mre liberating than iOS.
Sent from my LG-P990 using XDA App

JamPort USB DAC car audio?

http://www.isimplesolutions.com/charge/jamport-streaming-charging.html
Anybody here ever play with one of these?
It says it works with the GS4, it seems to be just a USB DAC. From what I remember, our N4's work on this type of device, right?
From the user manual:
IS3301 uses Android Open Accessory Protocol. Accessory mode is ultimatley
dependant on the devices hardware, and not all devices support accessory mode
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is pretty much exactly the device I've been looking for. I've got a really good head unit, it's just that it's pre-BT/USB/anything else useful. It'd cost me pretty big bucks to replace with a equivalent "modern" HU. I currently use a 3.5mm->RCA->HU aux input setup right now that is lacking in quality.
I just can't find anything about this thing online.
I'm not sure about that particular device, but most if not all USB DACs work with the N4 (on 4.x at least, LP reportedly broke compatibility with some previously working units ). I have an Asus Xonar U3 ($40 when I bought it from Amazon), and it's really FAR surpassed my expectations. As long as you plug it in before launching your (any, afaik) music player, it should produce a very noticeable improvement on sq. If you do end up getting a USB DAC, I'd highly recommend at least checking out the 14 day trial of USB Audio Player Pro... it bypasses the system's drivers and uses it's own, and IMO the sq is untouchable! If you listen to a lot of music from your N4 (a great output source in itself, x100 with UAPP) I can say pretty confidently that investing in a DAC will greatly increase your enjoyment! :good:
i use my nexus 7 as my in dash, how would this help ? currently just using 3.5mm port to rca to get the audio out...
does it charge the tablet at the same time?
I should have mentioned in my post above that portable USB DACs are primarily intended to be used with headphones. They will generally improve sound output to speakers as well, but a car-audio specific device like the one the OP posted may be better for that application... however, the only immediately apparent difference are the RCA plugs vs. aux. Worth the price difference? Not having heard that device as well as the lack of info/reviews (possibly a bad sign), my guess would be "no". With a device like mine or the Fiio usb models, you get the bonus of versatility: carrying it in your pocket and using headphones and then just using it in your car via an aux input (as long as your receiver has one). A caveat to using a portable USB DAC is that they actually drain your battery significantly faster (I found it odd that mine would only work with a "regular" micro usb to usb adapter cable, no sound when I tried it with a powered micro usb hub).
There may very well be better products if the intent is just to use it for car audio... I'm just not personally aware of any. I'm sure there are better forums (similar to head-fi.org but specific to cars) where you could probably find or get better answers re: good DACs for car audio
masri1987 said:
does it charge the tablet at the same time?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The one I posted says it does charge @2A.
My other question is: What controls the audio volume when you use a DAC?
My biggest issue is even with the volume maxed on my N4, my h/u sees very low input volume, and I have to nearly max out my h/u's volume to get anywhere, which induces a lot of clipping and distortion.. Which is bad.
jazzmachine said:
I'm not sure about that particular device, but most if not all USB DACs work with the N4 (on 4.x at least, LP reportedly broke compatibility with some previously working units ). I have an Asus Xonar U3 ($40 when I bought it from Amazon), and it's really FAR surpassed my expectations. As long as you plug it in before launching your (any, afaik) music player, it should produce a very noticeable improvement on sq. If you do end up getting a USB DAC, I'd highly recommend at least checking out the 14 day trial of USB Audio Player Pro... it bypasses the system's drivers and uses it's own, and IMO the sq is untouchable! If you listen to a lot of music from your N4 (a great output source in itself, x100 with UAPP) I can say pretty confidently that investing in a DAC will greatly increase your enjoyment! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hear you on the lack of reviews/info on it being a bad sign, but I'm guessing the vast majority of people have no idea wtf a DAC even is..
ummduh said:
The one I posted says it does charge @2A.
My other question is: What controls the audio volume when you use a DAC?
My biggest issue is even with the volume maxed on my N4, my h/u sees very low input volume, and I have to nearly max out my h/u's volume to get anywhere, which induces a lot of clipping and distortion.. Which is bad.
I hear you on the lack of reviews/info on it being a bad sign, but I'm guessing the vast majority of people have no idea wtf a DAC even is..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i use a line-driver before i route the audio to my amp to make it sound like a pioneer deck , but that's wit a 3.5 mm to rca plug... imagine with this product.. i'm concerned about overheating because it's constantly charging and i live in phoenix and it's hot as you know what
and viper4android of course
It looks like the charge wiring is separate, you could always switch it on/off as required.
I'm thinking about giving this a go and see what happens. It's still a TON cheaper than replacing my h/u.
ummduh said:
The one I posted says it does charge @2A.
My other question is: What controls the audio volume when you use a DAC?
My biggest issue is even with the volume maxed on my N4, my h/u sees very low input volume, and I have to nearly max out my h/u's volume to get anywhere, which induces a lot of clipping and distortion.. Which is bad.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Re: volume control, it depends. Some have some kind of volume control on the DAC, but most don't. With most music players you just control the volume as usual from the phone. Usually the output is louder than it would be otherwise, but particularly clarity at high volume. Considering your description, I think you'd notice even more of a benefit from using UAPP - the volume is controlled by a slider on the "now playing" screen (there's a setting to use the physical volume buttons also, but warns that it will drain much more battery) and it can definitely play music louder overall.
gonna try this as well..
Does a USB OTG kernel capable is required for this?
---------- Post added at 06:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------
http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Charg...e=UTF8&qid=1427909651&sr=8-1&keywords=JamPort
is this the same product? damn cheaper too.
According to the specs on that page, yes, it's the same product; "IS3301".
And thanks for finding it! I'll pick it up and give it a try and post back, eventually.
Well, got it and installed it.
A few things:
1) Was wrong on being able to switch power. If you don't hook up the power wires, the DAC doesn't power up.
2)Won't work on the Note4 with a stock /rooted Tmobile ROM. Just can't do it. Why? No idea. The USB Audio Pro app doesn't work either.
3)DOES WORK and sounds great with both a Nexus 7 (2012) 4.4.4 and an ASUS ME173X., 4.2.2.
4)Even working on those 2 tablets, it pops up a dialog box saying something to the effect of "No apps that are compatible with this device are installed". Still works anyways, every app I tried played properly through it.
5)Audio is basically ON/OFF. If you adjust the audio volume on the tablet it's all or nothing, no in between.
I'd still like to figure out how to get it working on the Note, tethering the tab to my phone is less than elegant, the ME173x tablet is pitifully slow and horribly unresponsive, and it seems Samsung in their infinite wisdom have also removed BT tethering.
Also not working with Note 4 and the canadian 5.0.1 ROM (chenxiaolong). Argh. Going to try some different cabling, possibly a data only cable, I've read some Samsung phones do weird stuff with USBOTG and charging.

Anyone having Bluetooth Issues in car

I'm using an AT&T variant in a Chevy 2015 Equinox. The phone operates fine with calls but stutters and skips with streaming audio. Any app I use it does the same thing; Poweramp, Google Music, Pandora, etc. My wife's iPhone 6 Plus has no issues whatsoever. Is this a phone issue, an AT&T software issue or car issue? Anyone experience anything like this and can give me some direction? TIA
I had something like that happen before. Doesn't happen much anymore. I wasn't streaming though. Listening to podcast I downloaded. It would play fine for a while but then start to stutter. Would work fine after I woke up the phone so assume it had something to do with the processor dropping down too low like it was trying to go to sleep or just the use the low power cores maybe. Just a guess. Doesn't happen anymore though. I'm on t mobile.
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
This is a widespread issue with Bluetooth on Android (since about KitKat, possibly earlier) that spans just about every possible combination of hardware and software. It is exactly like you said -- the phone's CPU is too slow to keep up with Bluetooth audio decoding and streaming when the screen is asleep. The CPU governor is too aggressive on saving every last microwatt of battery life, and would rather your experience suffer instead.
The issue is very well-documented, but Google refuses to fix it. See here for hundreds of complaints spanning every major manufacturer and just about every imaginable Bluetooth headphones, speakers, headset, earbuds, etc. etc.:
https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=95294
its an easy fix, just download kernel adiutor, set the minimum to 500 and see. I personally set the min and max of little cpu to 900 and big to 1200mhz.

Any solutions to auto power on Amp?

I'm currently running a Squeezebox based Multiroom audio setup at home. Everything is co-located in a comms cupboard including the Multiroom Amp and from there wired to the ceiling speakers around the house. Currently I use iPeng on our mobiles to control everything including WoL to wake the LMS server. The LMS in turn has one of its USB ports connected to a USB triggered energy saving plug (EOn Intelliplug - USB version), which the Amp is connected to. So when the LMS wakes it triggers power to the AMP and when it sleeps the AMP is powered off.
This has worked well until we started using Spotify (which comes free with our mobile contracts). And also things like Apple Play don't work with my current setup which would be useful when people come around and want to play there own music. There are some hacks and third party plugins but with official support for Squeezebox dropped by Logitech I'm thinking it may be time to move on. I've just been waiting for a reasonably priced alternative that supports syncing of playback across zones and with the now coming to chrome cast it seems like the best route. Especially since Spotify now supports casting aswell
The only caveat is once I drop the LMS from the equation, how do I now trigger the AMP to power on. I have considered swapping the AMP out for smaller discrete AMP's for each zone, but the reasonable priced ones (like SMSL-SA-50) don't support input auto sensing based power on.
Has anyone found a solution to this conundrum? Any triggers from the Chromecast that can be used via some sort of power switch? Or a reasonably priced small AMP with input auto sensing?
Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.
Did you ever figure anything out? I have the SMSL SA-50 Plus and its auto off when on optical is driving me bonkers.
Nope, I connected one chrome cast to the living room zone. That zone uses the surround system so didn’t need to worry about amp power on/off. The other zones are still on the squeezebox system.
What do you mean the amp turns off? Does the SMSL have auto power off on no input?

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