Hello,
I dont have an idea why my CPU temp shows always something arround 10.8-11 degree. Is the sensor defect? I already made a factory reset and flashed actual firmware complete with odin. Any ideas?
It's not an temperature sensor but an headphone jack ADC. It don't know why they (Samsung kernel devs) marked it as thermal sensor.
BTW I made a new recovery that fixes all these issues: wrong date, cpu temperature sensor, encryption support, brightness settings. Will post it soon when finish theming =) and polishing
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Anyone seen their light sensor get 'stuck' or just badly calibrated?
Mine reports super low values unless you hold it right up to a light bulb, then it says 'dim room' or something similar lol.
'
This all started happening after I tested out killswitch application (which uses the light sensor) which I think killed it. I've uninstalled and rebooted but now my light sensor is stuck in above state.
Anyone know how to recalibrate?
Bump and even more confusingly, I'm now on overcome 2.0 rc1 and even full restock and flash to new rom didn't fix it. What the...
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
Its a known Issue to samsung light sensor auto brightness is screwed. They fixed it with Galaxy S2 upgrade. I wish someone would port it for our tabs
oh snap it was working OK before that app broke it, no joking.
And the broken-ness carried across a full restock and upgrade from Overcome 1.45 to Overcome 2.0 (froyo --> gingerbread). So something is very weird, I hope you're right and that its a SW problem not hardware.
Also lightsensor problem with brand new Tab 7.7
I also have a problem and nSamsung doesn't even answer to my cries for help (Samsung Belgium redirected me to Samsung the Neteherlands and they do not reply at all).
I downloaded different luxmeter apps and general sensor apps they give as measurement result 12, 120 or 1200 lux (seems they output the range or lower or upper limit of the range the sensor is on, not the actual value). The sensor datasheet says it has a resolution of 1 lux.
Any solution would be much appreciated, I intende to use the sensor as a luxmeter and write an app for it taht needs the luxvalue ! But as it is now, the tablet is completey useless for this because the OS/driver software not working properly
Hello,
I noticed that when my xperia z gets warmer or hot due to a heavier use, the screen brightness fades a little and then goes back to the original value when the device temperature drops.
Autobrightness setting is turned OFF and the level is manually set at 80% brightness.
Has anyone else noticed the same ?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=39677492#post39677492
I dont know whether my problem is related to temperature or not. But in fact my phone's brightness have similar problem....
kelvin1993 said:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=39677492#post39677492
I dont know whether my problem is related to temperature or not. But in fact my phone's brightness have similar problem....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes same here, my brightness level does not increase after 85% but that's not the problem actually.
The problem appears after reaching certain temperature level, the screen dims a little and then goes back to original value when when temperature drops. I'm wondering if the running background process called " OVERHEAT CONTROL " has anything to do with it.
Maybe it is a factory setting to compensate for battery durability when in heavy use. I have reported this issue to the official SONY forums too and if there is no answer i am thinking to write directly to SONY.
Brightness level due to heat controls in sysmon.cfg file, in etc folder. This brightness dimming is really annoying me too, so i decided to change the values to my discretion. I did so on my previous phone, Xperia T, and had no problems with it. So, after this changes brightness becomes dimmer not so fast, and after a good heat. You can download attached file and take a look at changes that i done, and decide for yourself, to do or not to do. This file is from .434 f/w.
Anyway, whatever you do you do at your own risk!
I am not responsible for what your actions.
boyan.orion said:
Yes same here, my brightness level does not increase after 85% but that's not the problem actually.
The problem appears after reaching certain temperature level, the screen dims a little and then goes back to original value when when temperature drops. I'm wondering if the running background process called " OVERHEAT CONTROL " has anything to do with it.
Maybe it is a factory setting to compensate for battery durability when in heavy use. I have reported this issue to the official SONY forums too and if there is no answer i am thinking to write directly to SONY.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems that my problem is not related to temperature...do you know how to solve my problem actually?I am so confusing right now....
DennisDD78 said:
Brightness level due to heat controls in sysmon.cfg file, in etc folder. This brightness dimming is really annoying me too, so i decided to change the values to my discretion. I did so on my previous phone, Xperia T, and had no problems with it. So, after this changes brightness becomes dimmer not so fast, and after a good heat. You can download attached file and take a look at changes that i done, and decide for yourself, to do or not to do. This file is from .434 f/w.
Anyway, whatever you do you do at your own risk!
I am not responsible for what your actions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank You very much for the info. I'll see what i can do with the config file.
kelvin1993 said:
It seems that my problem is not related to temperature...do you know how to solve my problem actually?I am so confusing right now....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, not at the moment. I'll try to tweak the brightness settings and see what will come out of it. Are you satisfied with 85% brightness level ??? For me that level is quite enough bright and works nicely at daylight and even in direct sun, i can clearly see anything on my display.
Hi all,
troubleshooting for a girl with a Bionic; replaced cracked glass/digitizer for her and updated to JB via the OTA update, but her proximity sensor is flaking out.
I've installed a few Prox. Sensor reporting apps to see what values it's putting out: it reads 3cm most of the time, and 100cm when swiping down the notification bar. (100cm is max range, which I assume is a placeholder for a no-report state in the phone, not sure what it has to do with the notification bar.)
Problematic behaviour is that the screen turns off almost instantly after placing a call, and won't come back on except by swiping down (on the blank screen) to pull down the notifications, which temporarily disables the sensor. (it lasts long enough to get ~1 keypress on the keypad, which is *not* a usable workaround even for checking voicemail.)
I'll take the phone apart again and make sure there's nothing in the way of the prox. sensor, as that seems the most likely cause... but any guesses or similar reports from anyone about possible bugs in the firmware update? Any proximity sensor calibration apps for this hardware I'm not seeing in the marketplace, or ROMs that expose that functionality? (I wasn't planning to root the phone, but she won't know the difference if I need to. Was hoping to avoid safestrap to simplify the boot procedure and not interfere with future OTA updates, but warranty is gone already so it's not a big deal if I need to install something new.)
Soo I have a faulty battery on my Z3c and I do not have the time or money to replace it right now,and I would love to have a phone which wouldn't overheat and thermal throttle after watching a YouTube video and opening Snapchat.
As well because the battery overheated the back glass's adhesive has weakened and the glass unsticked so I use the phone with the battery exposed which actually did help a bit.
I do get better results when using "conservative" governor and at least trying to set the clock to 1500MHz(it maxes at 1500MHz for some time and then starts peaking at 2400MHz again). I also tried undervolting,didn't notice a difference unfortunately.
So now,what can I do to cool down the battery,because it is starting to get very very annoying. Maybe putting some aluminum plate over the battery(maybe a dumb suggestion,don't really know) or something like that? Thanks to anyone who helps in advance.
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Infy_AsiX said:
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Dinkec27 said:
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
Infy_AsiX said:
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Dinkec27 said:
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Infy_AsiX said:
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Dinkec27 said:
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Sent from my Z3 Compact using XDA Labs
Infy_AsiX said:
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah button alignment is completely fine it just isn't registiring a key press,maybe I have damaged the flex cable or the board.
And what I have done is apply thermal paste,leave 1mm between the motherboard and the battery so it has some air to breathe and Oreo seems to be cooler itself.
You must disable Thermal Core Control for your settings to be applied, can do it with Kernel Adiutor
Well I managed to get a new battery and with new settings that I set on Oreo there is almost no heat sooo yeah,this thread can be closed.
I was able to completely disable thermal throttling on N4 Snapdragon (including Oculus driver that throttles independently of kernel), it will work at full performance in VR until it blacks out from insufficient voltage. But now it's half dead because of EMMC fail (not caused by this mod - It will happen to every single N910F board after ~1.5 years because Samsung decided to install cheap memory).
It still boots if I cool it down with an ice pack and works fine after that but it won't last forever. I don't know exactly how I was able to completely disable thermal throttling - I was unable to reproduce the effect from fresh install, even after repeating all steps, so every time the system gets corrupted due to bad EMMC, I flash my lucky TWRP backup with no throttling. The backup is a Dr. Ketan ROM M12 with AEL kernel 10.8 I modified to work with ported N7 ROMs.
Now I want to make my N4 Exynos ignore temperatures and battery level in VR the same way.
Does anyone know how to achieve that? Simply adjusting thermal values in kernel is not enough, I need a way to disable throttling in Oculus Driver.
edit: I found some info on how it works, could be useful if anyone else is working on it https://developer.oculus.com/documentation/mobilesdk/latest/concepts/mobile-power-overview/
I'm fully aware of what I'm doing, please don't lecture me about possible dangers.