If you've just switched over to Mac, you've probably got some questions. We're here to answer them. Coming over from Windows, there are a lot of things that can be confusing. Moreover, you might run into some problems that you weren't expecting in macOS, and that's always the most frustrating thing.
In our previous post, we listed the most common terms useful to Mac users. Here are now some of the common problems that occur while using macOS.
Common macOS ProblemsUnresponsive appsApps can stop working at any time, and macOS is no alien to this issue. The best solution at your disposal, in this case, is to quit the app and then relaunch it. To quit an unresponsive app, click on the app's icon and then click on Quit. If the app doesn't quit, click on the Apple logo on the top-left of the screen and then click on Force Quit. Here, you can force-quit any app that is troubling you.
You can also check out our guide containing four ways to quit an unresponsive app on macOS.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Common Startup problems on MacYour Mac might show a dark or gray screen and may not start as intended. In that case, try to boot the Mac in Safe Mode. When the Mac boots in Safe Mode, it should self-diagnose and rectify any minor errors due to drivers, bad directories on the hard drive, or any other issue with the startup disk.
If the issue persists, reset the NVRAM on your Mac. If that does not help either, reset the SMC and check for any errors using the Disk Utility.
Spinning blue cursorA spinning blue cursor often signifies that your Mac is slowing or burdened due to apps. This is most likely due to excessive utilization of system resources, including RAM and CPU. You can go to the Activity Monitor either through the Launchpad or using Spotlight search to fix this. In this app, you can determine which app is consuming most of the resources and terminate that app to prevent your Mac from freezing or crashing.
Internet or Bluetooth doesn't workAn unresponsive internet or Bluetooth can usually be fixed by just restarting your Mac. If that doesn't resolve the issue:
Clear all apps and connect to the network if you can.
Press and hold Option (Alt) and then click on the Wi-Fi icon.
Click on Open Wireless Diagnostics and let the test run.
On the screen that follows, select Monitor my Wi-Fi connection if the issue is intermittent. If there's no internet whatsoever, select Continue to summary and then Continue.
The summary will provide information about the networks, including the performance, quality, and strength of the current network and any other Wi-Fi networks nearby. It will also use a tool called Sniffer to detect the congestion on your existing network and also the available bandwidth.
If you still cannot identify the issue, then reset the SMC and restart the Mac in Safe Mode to see if the issue exists. If in case, the problem might not be very common and still exists in Safe Mode, then you might need to get the Mac serviced.
There's no audioIf a restart doesn't fix issues related to audio, reset the NVRAM, reset the SMC, and try again by booting in Safe Mode. If your Mac still has problems with audio even in Safe Mode, it's time to take the Mac out for service.
Battery doesn't charge or other power-related problems on MacIssues with the battery can usually be fixed by resetting the SMC. Make sure you do that and check that you have the original charging or power accessories. If you're using a MacBook with an inbuilt battery, go to Battery Preferences and click on Battery Health at the bottom of the screen. If your battery needs to be replaced, you'll be informed here.
Another way to cross-check battery health is by installing the Battery Health - Monitor Stats app on your MacBook. This will give you detailed stats, including the total number of charging cycles, the existing battery capacity, and percentage deterioration in battery health.
Hard disk errors and trouble detecting external drivesYou can check issues with the disk using Disk Utility.
MacBook Pro Touchbar not working or not respondingIf you own a MacBook Pro model with a Touchbar, you might encounter a situation when it freezes or disappears. This can be one of the most challenging yet common Mac problems as the Touchbar has vital controls such as volume and brightness — and even the Escape key on 2018 and 2019 models.
To restart an unresponsive or masked Touchbar:
Open Terminal using Spotlight or Launchpad.
Type sudo pkill TouchBarServer; and press Return.
Then type sudo killall "ControlStrip"; and press Return.
Enter your password if prompted by Terminal. Do note that the password will not show — not even with asterisks — when you type it.
Press Return after you enter the password.
Hopefully, these steps should fix the Touchbar, but if they don't, then reset the NVRAM, reset the SMC, and restart the Mac to see if that helps.
How to troubleshoot common problems and issues on macOSHow to restart your MacRestarting your Mac can fix a lot of temporary issues or malfunctions in macOS. To restart your Mac, click on the Apple logo at the top left of the screen and then click on "Restart..." If the Mac does not shut down to restart, click on the Apple logo and then on "Force Quit." Then, force-quit all the apps.
If your Mac is still unresponsive or has frozen, long-press the power button for about 10 seconds, and that should restart the Mac.
Before restarting your Mac, make sure you've saved any open files and ejected external drives and media.
How to reset NVRAMNVRAM, short for non-volatile random access memory, is a small portion of Mac's memory used to store the information required while booting. NVRAM on Mac stores information such as the preferred startup disk, speaker volume, display resolution, time zone, etc. The non-volatility of the memory ensures that the data it stores stays even when you power off the Mac.
NVRAM on Mac seldom malfunctions, but you might come across signs such as a question mark while macOS is booting or issues like an incorrect startup disk, incorrect display resolution, no volume, etc. In those cases, you would need to reset the NVRAM.
To reset the NVRAM:
First, shut down your Mac.
Press Option + Command + P + R and keep holding them until you hear the boot chime on your Mac.
On new MacBook models or other Mac computers that feature Apple's T2 security chip, keep the keys pressed until the Apple logo appears and disappears twice.
Once the Mac boots up, go to System Preferences and fix any setting that was previously affected. These steps should be able to fix some common and widespread problems with audio, startup disk, display resolution, etc. on your Mac.
How to reset SMCSystem Management Controller, abbreviated as SMC, manages aspects related to the power, the power button, or any accessories connected via USB ports, batteries, fans, thermal performance on Mac, and other features such as ambient sensors and automatic keyboard lighting on MacBook devices. Resetting the SMC is a good way to purge your Mac of bugs or issues related to the elements mentioned above.
To reset the SMC on a Mac:
Power off your Mac.
Press the Left Shift + Left Option (Alt) + Left Control on the keyboard.
Press the Power button.
Keep holding the four keys for 10-15 seconds. In this duration, the Mac is likely to remain switched off. If the Mac turns on when pressing the three keys, it will turn off when you press the Power button.
After 15 seconds, release the buttons and press the power key again to start the Mac.
On Mac computers with the T2 security chip, the key combination is slightly different. For these models:
Press Right Shift + Left Option (Alt) + Left Control.
Press the power button.
Keep holding the keys for seven to ten seconds, and then release them.
Press the power button to start the Mac.
Hopefully, resetting the SMC will have fixes some common problems you were facing on your Mac.
How to boot Mac in Safe ModeBooting your Mac in Safe Mode can come in handy for checking if the issue you're facing is due to a software fault or a hardware failure. If the problems on your Mac vanish in Safe mode, it's probably a software issue and can be fixed by reinstalling macOS. However, if the issue persists in Safe Mode, it's an indication of hardware failure, and your only resort would be to take the device to an Apple service center.
To boot your Mac in Safe Mode, first ensure it's shut down. Then press any of the Shift keys and then the power button.
On Macs with Apple's M1 silicon:
Wait for ten seconds after shutting it down.
Press and hold the power button until Startup options, including the option to choose the Startup disk, appear on the screen.
Select your preferred Startup disk and then press and hold the Shift key.
When you see the option to Continue in Safe Mode, click on it and release the Shift key.
Log in with your credentials when the login screen appears.
How to Repair a DiskIf you witness any significant issues on your Mac that don't go away after multiple restarts or resetting the NVRAM and SMC, your current startup disk might have some errors, which can be the root of many disturbing but common Mac-related problems. Or, if any other disk malfunctions while copying or opening files, these disks might be corrupted. To find and fix errors on a disk, you can use Disk Utility. Above, we already have answers in the article What is Disk Utility on Mac and what can it do? The article also shares a guide on how to fix disk errors.
If that method doesn't work for you, there's another you can follow. To start with the process:
Shut down your Mac.
If you own an M1 Mac:
Press and hold the power button until Startup options become visible.
Click the gear-shaped icon called Options.
Click Continue.
If you own an Intel Mac:
Press Command (Cmd) + R to boot into recovery.
In this menu, click on Disk Utility.
In Disk Utility, click on the View button on top and then click on Show All Devices. This will list all partitions in the Sidebar.
Choose the disk you wish to repair and click on First Aid near the top of the window.
This will run a diagnostics test on the selected disk.
Run the same test for all disks you think could be causing the issue. If you don't know how to proceed, use this order — start with Volumes, then containers, and then individual disks.
How to clear the cache on macOSYour Mac can slow down as it ages because of all the cache. In addition to keeping the RAM clogged, the cache can also take a considerable space on the storage. This is one of the most common Mac problems, especially if you use an old MacBook model. So to clear out the cache on your Mac:
Make sure you are either on the desktop or in Finder.
Click on Go in the Menu bar up top and then on Go to folder.
In the dialog box that appears, you will see an empty text field. Enter "~/Library/Caches/" in this text field and click on Go.
This will open up the folder where all of your Mac's cache is stored. Select all files by pressing Command + A on the keyboard and then delete them by pressing Command + Delete or dragging all of these files into the bin.
If you want to take the automatic route while deleting an application, here is How to Completely Uninstall an App on Mac and Delete all Junk Files.
ConclusionWe hope this article gives you a good headstart during your first experience with Mac. Remember, while most of the features listed in the first part of the article are identical, you might need to proceed differently while troubleshooting common Mac problems if you own an Intel Mac versus if you own an M1 Mac.
This is a great guide for Mac beginners. You'll be surprised at how different this OS is from Windows. Even after years, I still get tripped up by the different systems.
Hey I have a problem with the latest version of MacOS. Since I installed Big Sur on my 13" late 2013 MPB the system drastically slow down and animations are very glitchy and slow. I think I am not the only one as I saw a lot of complains about it and I would like to know if you guys know how to fix this, as I really like how the new OS looks but I am forced to stick to Catalina, as Big Sur just doesn't work great for me. I already tried cleaning caches, reseting SMC and NVRAM, updated all apps to the latest version and downloaded the latest version of MacOS available, but nothing, the computer still slow and laggy.
Thanks in advance!
Related
I pasted this in Google's official forum but no reply. Can anyone one here please reply to this?
******************************
Here it goes:
The phone is perfect. Works very well. With a small annoying issue.
Sometimes after calling some someone when I hang up and keep it aside, the screen times out (which is normal).
But later when i try to wake the phone by pressing power button it does not do anything. No matter which button i press the phone lies dead.
Take out the battery and the phone starts working great as if nothing happened.
I have experienced this issue atleast 5 times. I tried factory reset just to make sure any random application is not doing this. But, after couple of weeks the issue came again.
I am not sure if HTC is the only one that can help because I am basically scared that they might screw other areas of phone which are working just fine.
Can this be solved by Froyo? Should I wait for it come OTA?
Also, there can be an application which wakes up phone via trackball but would that help?if no button is responding.
Please help guys!!
Always include:
Carrier:Singtel
Country / Language:Singapore
OS / Browser / build number (if applicable):2.1-update 1 (Unrooted, waiting for Froyo OTA)
Try calling your phone from another line first. That would happen to me on my HD2 (a really awesome phone if it didn't suck ass so bad) and, sometimes calling it from another line would cause it to wake up.
OK
Will try to call from another phone once the issue re-occurs.
Should get Froyo by this week as per google so lets see if that can eliminate the issue.
Just now this issue reappeared. I tried calling my phone with other phone but it just kept ringing, no response on N1.
I tried connecting charger and usb but again phone lies dead.
Pull-push battery and now I am typing this message with same phone.
Still wating for froyo ota.
Guys, pls suggest if someone is facing same issue.
I know Leo Laporte had this problem with his N1. Because the power botton is used for unlocking the phone it is more prone to having issues. Everything on his phone was fine, then the power/wake button stopped working. He pulled the battery and could never get it to boot up again, since the power button didn't work. He called up HTC customer service and they sent him out a new phone minus the battery and back cover. That may be the easiest solution to your problem.
I had that problem at one point, although not so severely. Froyo put an end to it but I have a strong feeling the problem will return since I am starting to notice a ~1/2 second lag between pressing the button and the phone waking up.
I think the problem lies in the hardware/software interaction for the button. Can you try something:
-Plug in your phone to your computer
-Start logCat* on your computer
-Keep messing around with your phone while its still connected (logCat will keep scrolling by itself, displaying the system log - if it doesn't, scroll to the bottom of the log and it should begin auto-scroll)
-Wait for the problem to come back
-Press the power button ONCE and see if ANYTHING shows up in logCat that coincides with you pressing the button.
The reason I say this is that I tried this with my phone (i'm a dev so I had it plugged in at the time already) and when I clicked the power button, although the screen would not turn on, logCat would indicate that the Android system registered the click.
Post the results for everyone, if you would be so kind.
*logCat is part of Android-SDK and can be downloaded from the Android Developer's Resources.
it's most likely a hardware issue with the button itself. 3 weeks ago I had a very similar problem where the button was working 1 out maybe 5 times. I called up HTC and they sent me a new one (well technically they're refurbished but I honestly couldn't tell the difference). I was rooted and everything, but they still didn't charge me for it. New phone is still working just fine.
So give them a try.
It sounds like a hardware issue to me too, but like someone already said logcat will tell us for sure. You can use alogcat from the market on your phone if you don't have the sdk installed (and I'm guessing you don't if you're waiting for an OTA for froyo).
MSigler said:
It sounds like a hardware issue to me too, but like someone already said logcat will tell us for sure. You can use alogcat from the market on your phone if you don't have the sdk installed (and I'm guessing you don't if you're waiting for an OTA for froyo).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How will the OP view alogcat (installed on the phone) if the sleep/wake button is what's in question?
maniacx21 said:
How will the OP view alogcat (installed on the phone) if the sleep/wake button is what's in question?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well everytime android acknowledges a wake from the power button, it will be indicated in the logcat. I think it's something like "I/power: set screen_state 1"
So maybe that is an indication that the power press is being registered. And if the OP is certain that he really did press 5 times and only one time works, then there should only be one line that indicates that.
If the logcat reads 5 power presses, then it may be the display problem.
Then again this is just my speculation. I have no idea how to read logcats.
musashiken said:
Well everytime android acknowledges a wake from the power button, it will be indicated in the logcat. I think it's something like "I/power: set screen_state 1"
So maybe that is an indication that the power press is being registered. And if the OP is certain that he really did press 5 times and only one time works, then there should only be one line that indicates that.
If the logcat reads 5 power presses, then it may be the display problem.
Then again this is just my speculation. I have no idea how to read logcats.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh. I believe you misunderstand my intention;
The logcat output won't explicitly say that the sleep/wake button was pressed, rather you would see some indication of background [system] activities reacting to the press (you would see 'x many' log entries appear RIGHT when you clicked the power button). There would be no way to tell for sure if you see it after the fact. You would essentially be clicking the button with your finger while staring at the logcat output on your computer. You could not do that with alogcat (from the market) as the [device's] display would be off at the time.
*I bolded alogcat to differentiate it from logcat.
For those unfamiliar, the Android system (and activities spawned by applications) send 'messages' to a sub-system in the Android-OS called logcat. The logcat is used by developers to find out at what part of the program an error occurred while debugging as they can output detailed error logs to it from their app. Logcat also outputs things such as results from OTA checkins so Google can debug the OTA system to make sure it is pulling the correct download paths, ect. This was put in place by Google devs (and led to the public finding out the google server addresses of the Froyo 'test' builds).
On average, there are 2-3 logcat entries added per second when the device is being used, and about 0.1 logcat entries per second when the device is in standby mode. What we are looking for in this case is whether there is a sudden surge of entries when the button is pressed, indicating that SOME part of the Android system recognized the press. The entries wouldn't have anything to do with the button itself, but if the same [few] entries come up EVERY time you press the power button and nothing happens visually, you know something was triggered.
Logcat is a software that runs on your computer (what we want in this case) that lets you view log entries in real time. Alogcat on the other hand, is a software that RUNS ON YOUR PHONE that allows you view log entries in real time.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Do you use a taskiller? Ever since I got burned by a taskiller, I've been wary about them. Not wary enough to uninstall them though.
Not a fix:
But a workaround would be using Trackball Wake to circumvent having to use the power button to wake your device. Especially since you are not running on Froyo.
I rooted my color nook and it just didn't seem to be working correctly so I did extensive reading here on how to unroot it. I did a hard reset and all seems well through the B&N registration process but then the Android character comes on the screen with "Welcome to logicPD Zoom2" at the bottom of the screen and it makes me go through a google registration process BUT the software thinks the Nook is a phone and so of course can't connect to complete the registration.
I can cancel out of that but the "extras" screen still shows the "Market" App, Superuser app, etc. whih o course means that it is still rooted.
I have tried cancelling out of the google registration process and activiating a wireless connection (which works fine) and then signing in through gmail and I get a screen that says "Your phone needs to communicate with Google servers to set up your account. This may take up to five minutes." This is then followed by a screen that says "Can't establish a reliable data connection to the server. This could be a temporay problem or your phne may not be provisioned for datat services. If it continues, call Customer Care."
So it is not unrooting and it still thinks it is a phone. I have ttried the "8 times" powering up and can't get past the fifth time without it just continuing through the boot process.
Thanks for reading this far. I would appreciate any guidance.
Robert
I would keep trying the 8 times reboot process, then after that has completed you have to erase it and de-register it.
You can also try the 2nd method of 8 times reboot through adb,
Set the Boot counter to 8 by typing
If you have installed adb to your desktop, and if your computer is in a state where adb is working, you can go to the directory where you have adb.exe installed and type the following three commands:
adb shell
echo -n -e "\x08\x00\x00\x00" > /rom/devconf/BootCnt
reboot
Part two: ReImage the /data part. This is called Factory Reset
After re-imaging /system in step one, you need to perform a SECOND process to clear /data.
Method 1: Hardware Key Combination
With the NOOKcolor powered off hold down the n button (home) and Power Button until the NOOKcolor powers on.
You will be prompted with a Factory Reset dialog.
Press POWER key to Exit
Press HOME key to continue
Press n button (home).
You will be prompted to confirm.
Press POWER key to Exit
Press HOME key to continue
Press n button (home).
A Clearing Data dialog will show. NOOKcolor will reboot automatically once complete.
Method 2: "Erase & Deregister Device"
Go to Settings
Select "Device Info" under the top "Device Settings" section
Select "Erase & Deregister Device"
Select the "Erase & Deregister Device" button
You will be prompted with the following confirmation dialog
Are you sure you want to reset your Nook?
Doing so will return your Nook to factory settings, erase local content and deregister this device.
Cancel Reset Nook
Select the "Reset Nook" button
A Deregistration message will appear and NOOKcolor will reboot.
Upon reset a Clearing data message will appear
Clearing data...
A reset is being performed.
This may take a few minutes.
NOOKcolor will reboot again once complete.
Read more: http://nookdevs.com/Flash_back_to_clean_stock_ROM#ixzz1AAsuy5td
Under Creative Commons License: Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike
As stated above, you can't just do one or the other, you have to do both the 8 resets and then the factory reset.
This worked!!!
I was able to get through the "eight times" method using the power button (which is a good thing and the adb option is likely beyond my abilities). It seems that the power button needs to be held down for at least ten seconds after the scrren goes dark each time.
I then used "Method 2" of data clearing and I am back to out of the box condition.
You guys are rock stars. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
i have this same error and am not near my PC, bummer .
Variation of this problem - troubleshooting suggestions?
Can someone suggest a way out of THIS problem?
NC will not boot if SD card is inserted. (Tried 2 different cards with clockwork).
NC boots to LogicPd Zoom2 welcome screen if started without SD card - but icons are unresponsive.
Tried 3 button reset and then restarting 8 times from LogicPd Zoom 2 screen - no luck.
Tried the same from the ANDROID welcome screen just before Logic PD Zoom screen - no luck.
Loaded SDB on my computer but can't get it to recognize the NC; no device is detected. (Tried changing up drivers with no effect).
Tried letting the NC power run down to zero. Won't start in this state and when I recharge, it puts me back into Logic PD screen.
The only progress I've made is that if I let the NC run down to 15% battery power, I get a low battery icon. Clicking that icon will take me to the android settings menu.
Any ideas on what's wrong and how to correct given the limited control I have?
LogicPD Zoom loop - one solution
I finally was able to get out of the loop AND install CM7 by following directions found here -
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1030227
For whatever reason, this clockwork image DOES boot from SD card. Previous images I had tried, including a recovery image, did not work...
Hi All. I apologize for begging for help in my first post here.
Just to get it out of the way, I am a complete rube when it comes to tinkering with mobile phones.
I have a Moto X (1st Gen) which has served me well for 20 months, but this morning I dropped it on the sidewalk and the display shattered. I can still make out about 1/2 of the display (right half) but the digitizer is completely shot. The phone is locked with a text pin (not pattern). The phone appears to boot normally and I can see the usual lock screen with notification icons when I power up. However, since the phone recognizes no touch input, I can't unlock it. The phone is not rooted, completely stock, running Lollipop.
I'd be fine just buying a new phone at this point but I have a lot of data (mostly photos) I'd like to back up. But when I connect the phone to a PC with a USB cable, the PC does not recognize it's there. I *think* this is because the phone is locked -- I think when I unlock it, the phone mounts and I can access it's storage from my PC. But while it's locked, the computer doesn't even know it's there. It's possible that even when unlocked I need to click through some confirmation on the phone -- I don't quite remember.
I've been trying to think through some options to get into the phone and am wondering if I just picked up an OTG cable and a cheap USB keyboard if i'd be able to enter the pin and unlock the phone. Could it really be that simple?
Of course at that point I'd face the potentially insurmountable challenge of having to confirm the USB connection without being able to "click" the screen, but i'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Thank you all for your help, I truly appreciate you sharing your expertise to help out a dummy like me. :fingers-crossed:
lowbar said:
Hi All. I apologize for begging for help in my first post here.
Just to get it out of the way, I am a complete rube when it comes to tinkering with mobile phones.
I have a Moto X (1st Gen) which has served me well for 20 months, but this morning I dropped it on the sidewalk and the display shattered. I can still make out about 1/2 of the display (right half) but the digitizer is completely shot. The phone is locked with a text pin (not pattern). The phone appears to boot normally and I can see the usual lock screen with notification icons when I power up. However, since the phone recognizes no touch input, I can't unlock it. The phone is not rooted, completely stock, running Lollipop.
I'd be fine just buying a new phone at this point but I have a lot of data (mostly photos) I'd like to back up. But when I connect the phone to a PC with a USB cable, the PC does not recognize it's there. I *think* this is because the phone is locked -- I think when I unlock it, the phone mounts and I can access it's storage from my PC. But while it's locked, the computer doesn't even know it's there. It's possible that even when unlocked I need to click through some confirmation on the phone -- I don't quite remember.
I've been trying to think through some options to get into the phone and am wondering if I just picked up an OTG cable and a cheap USB keyboard if i'd be able to enter the pin and unlock the phone. Could it really be that simple?
Of course at that point I'd face the potentially insurmountable challenge of having to confirm the USB connection without being able to "click" the screen, but i'll cross that bridge when I get there.
Thank you all for your help, I truly appreciate you sharing your expertise to help out a dummy like me. :fingers-crossed:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
see if you can access the recovery while the phone is plugged in. i know that I've been able to get access to the phone's internal storage while in recovery mode.
jco23 said:
see if you can access the recovery while the phone is plugged in. i know that I've been able to get access to the phone's internal storage while in recovery mode.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the great suggestion and for your help. Unfortunately I tried that and did not have any luck. It doesn't help that the part of the screen that's completely shattered is exactly where the menus are located.
When I restarted into the bootloader with the phone plugged into my PC, the PC makes the tone as if a usb device was connected, but no additional drive appears in My Computer. When I go on from there to select recovery mode (second option down, I think? I can't actually see any of the menu options), the PC makes the usb disconnect tone. I did this all again looking at the Device Manager while I was doing this and it seems when I connect the phone the device "ADB Interface" appears, and underneath that "Mot Single ADB Interface." Definitely getting well beyond the point that I have any idea what I'm doing.
Worst of all, I'm pretty sure I messed up the phone worse now because when I try to start it up normally now, instead of getting to my usual lock screen (I could previously still see some remnants of the clock, wallpaper, and notifications), now (after going through the motorola startup animations and new-with-lollipop-update verizon red screen) I just see a blank screen with what appears to be a white box in the middle of it. I can't even turn the screen off with the power button. Before I started messing around with the bootloader it wasn't this so I probably stupidly selected a wrong option somewhere while clicking blind. So frustrating.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
lowbar said:
Thank you for the great suggestion and for your help. Unfortunately I tried that and did not have any luck. It doesn't help that the part of the screen that's completely shattered is exactly where the menus are located.
When I restarted into the bootloader with the phone plugged into my PC, the PC makes the tone as if a usb device was connected, but no additional drive appears in My Computer. When I go on from there to select recovery mode (second option down, I think? I can't actually see any of the menu options), the PC makes the usb disconnect tone. I did this all again looking at the Device Manager while I was doing this and it seems when I connect the phone the device "ADB Interface" appears, and underneath that "Mot Single ADB Interface." Definitely getting well beyond the point that I have any idea what I'm doing.
Worst of all, I'm pretty sure I messed up the phone worse now because when I try to start it up normally now, instead of getting to my usual lock screen (I could previously still see some remnants of the clock, wallpaper, and notifications), now (after going through the motorola startup animations and new-with-lollipop-update verizon red screen) I just see a blank screen with what appears to be a white box in the middle of it. I can't even turn the screen off with the power button. Before I started messing around with the bootloader it wasn't this so I probably stupidly selected a wrong option somewhere while clicking blind. So frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since you're already getting another device, my advice would be to install the factory image (this, at least clears the lockscreen). Then, once it boots up, you'll be able to access the internal storage via USB.
Sent from my Moto X using XDA Free mobile app
You can't get to the password box with keyboard only, you need to swipe the ring or the screen to get to the password box, a combo of keyboard - mouse - keyboard may work. It will take lots of tickle though.
If you flash system without wiping data will most likely result in soft brick, resort to this if nothing else left.
My advice is to unlock your bootloader, it's all done in fastboot, then flash cwm or twrp and access your storage through there, they both support adb while in recovery. Then it's just simple matter of pull with adb whatever you need.
liveroy said:
You can't get to the password box with keyboard only, you need to swipe the ring or the screen to get to the password box, a combo of keyboard - mouse - keyboard may work. It will take lots of tickle though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! This actually worked with only a moderate amount of tickle. I had to be very quick from the point of swiping to the PIN screen using the mouse, getting the keyboard plugged in, giving it a second for Moto X to recognize keyboard, then entering the pin -- then getting it plugged into PC via USB before screen locked again. I only have a handful of pixels in the lower right corner still shining on this thing so it was just in the nick of time. Now I can order a new phone instead of spending money on getting a new screen installed in this one. Thanks so much liveroy for the pointer! And thank you jco23 for your advice and guidance as well!
For further fun now that I'm "in" (and I *think* I have USB debugging turned on from using Easy Tether recently), perhaps I can use an app like this to control the phone from my PC? http://www.xda-developers.com/contr...n-screen-from-the-comfort-of-your-windows-pc/
My only worry is when I download this app, I get some savage virus warnings from Symantec endpoint protection which basically say "we are just about certain this contains something malicious...."
Just in case anyone comes upon this post looking for answers to the same issue -- I happened upon a way to unlock an android phone that doesn't have a working display or touchscreen that's a lot more straightforward than jockeying around the mouse and keyboard via an OTG cable. If you give your phone a voice command (e.g., "OK Google Now . . . Navigate To Home") and you use a PIN for security rather than a pattern, you'll be asked to "say or type PIN code." Say your PIN, and the phone unlocks, and you can get your photos and such off it via USB.
I'm not sure if you can unlock by voice if you have a pattern lock, I've never used them...
Hi everyone!
I was on call yesterday working from home (due to Covid-19 effects) when my P30 pro shut down and started doing boot loops. I tried the following remedies so far but to no avail:
1. Drain the battery and try recharging and open - it never goes to recharging screen the moment I plug it, it just goes straight to boot loop.
2. Press volume button up+power - never goes to EMUI screen.
3. Connect to PC via USB and press button down+up - It opens to fastboot&recovery screen but my HiSuite opens saying device is not supported for erecovery and not found.
4. Tried downloading all external apps i can find - Hardly find anything for Huawei and the rest that I do, requires USB debugging mode which I actually can't get into.
I'm currently trying ADB and stuff but it seems it doesn't even find my device. I also don't recall updating any systems (auto or manual) nor installed any new applications yesterday.
I hope someone out there can help me... If not, at least provide suggestions to get my files back... I have recent important files there that I haven't loaded into Cloud yet and it really pains me to realize I'm losing them...
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Mark Sy
I accidentally booted my HP Touchpad to the moboot USB connection mode, but I can't reboot or even power off from there.
I installed CM about 10 years ago... I don't remember what version: CM9 or what. I do know that WebOS remains on the system for dual boot. I haven't booted the device for years. I powered it up this morning, booted to CM, and tried to run the Google Play Store. My Google password has been changed since last used on this device. I entered my current PW to log in, but it insists that it is the wrong password even though I know it is correct. I rebooted but then, as I said, accidentally selected the WebOS restore item.
I connected to my PC, and it beeps like it detects the connection, but there it does not list the device in File Explorer or in the System Tray.
All that I related may not have caused the inability to reboot or power off from the USB connection, but better too much into than not enough, right?
I'm hoping it is something simple. It has been so long since I went through the procedure to install CM or even use the device, I may be missing a simple trick. I hope.
The problem solved itself. Since I could not turn off the device, the battery eventually ran down. I charged it and booted OK. Turns out it is Android version 4.0.4. That is CM9, I think.
For the record, is there no way to get out of the USB connection mode if needed? If not, that seems kinda flakey to me.
I am still having the problem logging on the Play Store. I was able to update my password for Android on this Touchpad, but when I attempt to start Play Store, it prompts for my password again, but does not accept it. Says not the right password.
I think I may, some day soon, replace CM9 with a later version. I hope that will solve the Play Store problem.
The Tablet can be " hard reset" or force reboot, just like any other device.
If The Tablet is not responsive in any Operating System or Recovery just reset it by:
Hold at the same time the following 3 keys:
Power Key + Volume Key ( closer to Home button ) and The Home button.
Hold until the Tablet turns off and then it will power on.