Related
Hi everybody,
I've got problems with connecting my Rikaline 6010 to the Car Kit. With the help of the forum I know now, wich pins I have to connect together. But I'm not be able to bring power to the Mouse. I have the +5V and GND connected but the LED on the mouse won't turn on. With a simple car adapter for the mouse and the xda it works perfect. I try to look inside the cable of the car adapter and it looks lite the cable, I build myself.
Maybe I have to short some pins inside the connector ??
Does anybody have a Rikaline 6010 successful connected to the xda car kit ?
thanks a lot
rob.
Make sure the switched power supply is connected.
I assume you are using the official XDA carkit.
I did some reverse engineering on this carkit and found that the GPS powerline is only working if the switched power line for the carkit is connected.
After disconnecting this line the GPS power will stay on for 1 hour and then automatically switch of.
Have you checked if there is power on the GPS connector of the carkit when nothing is connected? Maybe the current demand is to high? For pinlayout check www.vanhemert.biz
Francois
Hi Francois,
I think my problem is not the car kit. After it doesn't work with the carkit, I tried to connect my car-adapter-cable with the cable, I made myself to the gps-mouse. And also there, the mouse doesn't get power. So I simply put +5V and GND to the pins of the mouse-connection and it doesn't work.
Maybe GND must be connected to two pins or to the GND-pin AND the PS2-connector's metall ?
I think, I have to buy a H203e to make it work....
rob.
Pinlayout
I have looked at the data sheet (http://www.rikaline.com/pdf/gps-6010-manual-e.pdf) and it looks straightforward. Pin 2 and 4 should do the job but I can imagine that you need a correct RS232 signal to get the thing up and running. Are you sure that the LED is just an indication of power or does it only light if power and RS-232 is correct?
As you can see in the schematics on my website I had trouble opening the COM port on my XDA, Communication just did not start unless I pulled the DCD line (pin 6) to Vcc. This will activate Active sync in the same way as the original cable set I used to have.
Good luck,
Francois
Hi,
thanks for your reply. The LED on the GPS-Mouse have to turn on simply by bringing power to it. I've tried that by using my car adapter cable and simply connect the mouse to the cable and not connect the xda...and the LED turns on.
I've ordered today a Hi203E and I will try to conncet it as you described on your homepage....hope it will work (if not, I'll be back ;-))
thanks a lot
rob.
Hi Francois,
today I received my Hi203e and I will try to connect it to the carkit.
One Question:
Is the connector, which is shown on your homepage and labeled with "to gps" the female connector, which is wired to the gps-mouse or the male connector, which is wired on the selfmade cable between carkit and PS2-connector of the mouse ??
thanks
rob.
hi,
ok, my previous question is now obsolet. The connector, which is wired to the Hi203e, is male (at my Rikaline6010 it is female). So I have to buy a female connector and build new cable. I made a first test by bringing the +5V and GND of the carkit over an adaptercable to the gps-mouse and (yippie) it worked. The LED on the mouse turns on !! Looks pretty good.
...to be continued (if I have the new connector...)
rob.
Hi Francois,
I've got it now and it works perfect. Thanks again for the Info's on your webpage.
2 points:
I've got a low noise (frequently repeated) in the speaker, when the gps is active. Is there something to do against that ?
And how can I stop the activation of active-sync, when i put the xda into the carkit ?
Do you know that ?
thanks
rob
noise...
rob said:
I've got a low noise (frequently repeated) in the speaker, when the gps is active. Is there something to do against that ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would guess this is the speaker wire picking up the GSM signal, nothing to do with the GPS. Try re-aligning so that the wires relative to the antenna of the XDA. If that doesn't work, you could experiment with ferrite beads (these ugly black blocks on all modern cables) on the wires.
Same problem here, but...
I found that if I start serial communication with the GPS unit, i will hear some interferance via the speaker. It looks like the auto mute functions does not work immediatlly after inserting the XDA and "the connection is left open".
Workaround:
Pressing the red phone button to generate a tone (keypress) activates the automute and the interferance will disappear. (at least is does in my case)
Auto start of the active sync process:
This is caused by the DCD line pulled to Vcc. I first owned a standard GPS Y-cable (XDA/GPS/Lighter) and it showed the same behaviour. My first experiment was to not use the DCD line (just gnd, tx and rx)but at that time TomTom could not open the COM port. I did no further investigation but one of the forum members suggested to disable the IR connection and auto sync, this should free the com port to TomTom and not start active sync automatically. Again I have not tested it but if you will, i am interested.
Good luck,
francois
hi,
Been reading this thread with alot of interest...
can someone help me with a problem, I have the O2 carkit installed in my car, and i also have a rikaline 6010 that i would like to attach it.
I have found the GPS connector that i need to attach the GPS reciever to but when i check the connector for +5v its not there...
Does anyone know where i can connect it to... looks like the person who connect my carkit could'nt be bothered about connecting up the GPS connector properly...
and also the colour of wires that everyone mentions, mine are a different colour...
i have the following from my rikaline reciever, 4 in total...
red
black
green
white
does anyone know what connects to what????
Many Thanks
Zetex
Rikalinegps 6010 with cables - from eBay
This receiver is available with cable for XDA via eBay (see link below), but you guys have got me worried. I'm thinking of buying the Rikaline 6010 but am I going to have to do all this business of rewiring etc? What's the economical way of buying all the other bits that I need (Software, Car Kit etc)?
I'm looking for some easy to follow advice. Keep it simple please.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4668&item=3094896604&rd=1
:? :? :?
I don't know much about USB. I was thinking coming up with ONE cable with three connectors like the one I draw blow.
Code:
XDA -------USB (to laptop or ac adaptor)
|
|
GPS (the generic GPS connect).
NOTE: the ac adaptor output port is an USB port
it serves for three ways
a), XDA -> Laptop, charge and syn in the same cable, draws power from laptop
b). GPS -> laptop, draws power from laptop
c). XDA -> GPS, in this case, USB connector connects to the ac adapter and power both GPS and XDA.
I believe the XDA---USB cable can be purchased easily. I can break the cable and somehow insert the GPS connector. since GPS only used a power pin, two data pin, a ground pin, I figure I only need to find out how to get these four pin into the original cable.
My question is
1. do I need any USB-serial sort of convertor between the lines? Or it is ok to connect GPS(serials signal) to USB cable
2. The ac adapter was to power the XDA which I blieve is 6V, and GPS needs 5 V, is it OK?
3. anyone alreadys knows how to plug the four GPS pins to USB cable? would save me a lot of trouble.
It would be cool to have a cable connects between all devices. If you can care for a DC-AC convertor in your car, this set should solve all your problem anywhere.
help is appreciated.
Most GPS units are serial. The XDA does have serial, so you can use that. You only need to connect the ground and two data pins. Specified input power for the XDA is 5v.
You can see what I did with a cradle to make a car kit here:
http://www.mywirelessoffice.com/xda/carkit/
This is a pin spec and photo of the connector:
http://www.mywirelessoffice.com/xda/connector/
There is a source for bare connetors, I believe the link is here on the XDA-Dev site somewhere.
Re: XDA -> Laptop USB, GPS-> laptop USB, are they the
It is possible. But note:
1. I assume you are using a serial GPS (with appropriate wiring), then it is OK. USB GPS CANNOT be used.
2. USB sync cable is wired to tell XDA that USB sync cable is connected so as to "wake up" the USB port. In such case, I do not know wheter the serial port can be accessed. As such has not been done before you have to try before you know.
I would suggest you make a cable just for GPS use, and use another cable for sync/charge (this is quite cheap), unless you found that your original idea works.
pine said:
I don't know much about USB. I was thinking coming up with ONE cable with three connectors like the one I draw blow.
Code:
XDA -------USB (to laptop or ac adaptor)
|
|
GPS (the generic GPS connect).
NOTE: the ac adaptor output port is an USB port
it serves for three ways
a), XDA -> Laptop, charge and syn in the same cable, draws power from laptop
b). GPS -> laptop, draws power from laptop
c). XDA -> GPS, in this case, USB connector connects to the ac adapter and power both GPS and XDA.
I believe the XDA---USB cable can be purchased easily. I can break the cable and somehow insert the GPS connector. since GPS only used a power pin, two data pin, a ground pin, I figure I only need to find out how to get these four pin into the original cable.
My question is
1. do I need any USB-serial sort of convertor between the lines? Or it is ok to connect GPS(serials signal) to USB cable
2. The ac adapter was to power the XDA which I blieve is 6V, and GPS needs 5 V, is it OK?
3. anyone alreadys knows how to plug the four GPS pins to USB cable? would save me a lot of trouble.
It would be cool to have a cable connects between all devices. If you can care for a DC-AC convertor in your car, this set should solve all your problem anywhere.
help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi All,
I had reviewed the XDA connector wiring diagram, and confused about all the ground pins on sx56. I had order a standard stock serial cable from GOMATIC and it didn't work. Took it apart and rewired to the follow:
SX-56 pin 8 to db9 pin 3,
pin 10 to db9 pin 2
pin 2 to db9 pin 5. (gnd)
Still no go, should I be adding all the gnd pins to db 9 pin 5 gnd
( 5,16,17,18)
cheers,
edmond
Yep, you need all the ground pins shorted to device gnd.
I tryed shorting all the ground pins and my serial cable works fine for polling requirements.
Edmond
I converted my orginal O2 sync lead into a serial cable (seemed a cracking idea at the time).
took the connector apart, used the existing wires, cut the wires coming from the power socket and chucked a 9 pin d type on the other end. i left tx and rx straight so it could be connected easily to the cable (which is crossed) from my friends etrex gps, all works well.
I can't remember which ground i used but i just picked the easiest to re-route a wire to, if you are just doing 3 wire rs232 then you shouldn't need to short the grounds.
Help me psl my IIi can not heard phone conversation when plug sync charger.
I have exactly the same problem.
I bought a retractable sync/charge cable from ebay.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/PDA-Sync-and-Charge-Cables-and-Crad
However, if the cable is plugged into the phone, then the phone speaker (and I think also the mic) are muted. The cable dosn't even have to be plugged into the PC USB port to cause this problem.
At first I thought this was some incorrect wiring on pin 19 of the connector at the XDA end of the cable. This signal is meant to control whether the sound is driven out of the car kit pins or not. However, this signal was not connected on the connector, which should be ok.
I noticed that if the phone is paced in the original sync cradle, then the pda appears to go into handsfree mode, which would tally with one of the functions of pin 19.
All I can guess is that the s/w in the phone detects a signal on the USB pins and attempts to route sound out via the car kit pins.
Anybody know of a fix for this?
Cheers,
Chris.
I know many people have exactly this problem. It is not a problem of our XDAIIi, it is the problem of the Sync charger. I remember someone has shown how to fix this problem of the sync charger in a Vietnamese mobile phone forum but I don't understand anything 'bout electric so I can not translate it. What a pity!
Hi MrSandman,
I dont speak Vietnamese, but I do know electronics.
If you could post a link to the forum, I may be able to make some sense of it.
Thanks,
Chris.
I have the link but I'm sure u will not understand anything 'cause everything is in Vietnamese. In that topic, one guy said that he could fix that f***ing problem and if anyone wanted to fix it, just brought the sync charger to him. He just shown how to fix it in a few words that no one could understand. But in general, he said: "open the plug head of the sync charger and remove the first "masse" string". Does anyone know what is the "masse string"?
Fixed !!!
This works for my cable - but try this at your own risk!!
After thinking about it some more and re-reading the connector signal descriptions here:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
I took another look at the wiring in my cable.
I noticed that pin2 (GND/Sense) was connected to the other GND pins at the XDA end of the cable. The notes in the above web page states this will cause the phone to hang up.
I disconnected this pin from GND and now I can hear phonecalls when the cable is plugged into the phone.
I noticed that pin 5 (Analog GND) was also connected to the other GND pins which is also apparently a bad thing. I disconnected it just in case.
Pins 20,21 and 22 are the 5v positive charge connections. They are not connected in my cable and I wondered about connecting them to the USB 5v signal. I decided to leave it in the end as they may draw too much current form the USB port. The phone does charge anyway - just very slowly.
Hope this helps.
Chris.
Mentioned fix works fine for me
Thanks!
I have the same problem also.. i've read the wiki but did'nt catch well what it saying. Please put in in a simple words step by step what to do..oo please..
2 GND / SENSE
5 ANALOG GND
16 GND
17 GND
18 GND
In my cable connector there were two small red wires soldered to 3 pins (from '2' to '5' and from '5' to all three GND pins which were soldered together as one pin;
The thing is that '2' shouldn't be connected to GND. In wiki there were suggestion not to connect '5' to GND as well (has nothing to do with sound problem).
I removed those red wires and everything is working fine (I'm using it for a month now);
Be careful and good luck!
I see there was excellent work done by others to determine pinout for Nook Color/Tablet connector.
Now it would be great if we can get somebody to do the same for Nook HDs.
Additionally I really-really need a serial port out of the new Nooks for my kernel experiments (hopefully there's a serial in the big connector, but even if not, and somebody can help me to just solder wires somewhere on the pcb to gain serial, that would be great).
Please hit your hardware techie friends for me if you have any
If there is a serious person interested in this with no Nook to play, please contact me and I'll arrange for something.
(I already researched the Nook Color way of getting serial via twl on usb connector, but the newer twl in the newer Nooks does not have this car kit mode).
verygreen said:
I see there was excellent work done by others to determine pinout for Nook Color/Tablet connector.
Now it would be great if we can get somebody to do the same for Nook HDs.
Additionally I really-really need a serial port out of the new Nooks for my kernel experiments (hopefully there's a serial in the big connector, but even if not, and somebody can help me to just solder wires somewhere on the pcb to gain serial, that would be great).
Please hit your hardware techie friends for me if you have any
If there is a serious person interested in this with no Nook to play, please contact me and I'll arrange for something.
(I already researched the Nook Color way of getting serial via twl on usb connector, but the newer twl in the newer Nooks does not have this car kit mode).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm surprised no one has done this yet. I read somewhere that b&n simply modified an iPod connector and often times I've found that means they simply changed the order of the wires in order to gain propriety and therefore extra revenue. I have Two hd+ sitting on my desk with no charge because I'm too cheap to pay 30 bucks for a cable from b&n. I also have one charging cable cut in half so maybe I'll get on this myself, not that I can really take on another project at the moment.
The standard USB cable that came with the Nook only has 4 pins inside (going to the nook), so even if you cut your cable I don't think you will find anything useful.
I'm not sure about the HDMI one, it should have some extra pins inside to enable the video output, but I think that, without finding a compatible male plug with all the pins intact, it will be quite hard to find out the purpose of each pin.
Someone brave can do it on the nook side but I haven't open mine yet
Linux can use usb serial as console.
But I don't know is it possible to switch Nook usb subsystem to usb host early at boot.
lostnick said:
Linux can use usb serial as console.
But I don't know is it possible to switch Nook usb subsystem to usb host early at boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, and by the time usb is up it's way too late in the booting game.
The big benefit of a real serial out is you get the output from bootloader and then transitioning into kernel including very early booting.
The nook end of the cable has only six pins. Two top and bottom on one side and one top and bottom on the other side. It would be easy to see what they connect to on the USB side. I'm definitely not an electronics engineer so I'm wondering if that is what is being discussed here and how that would do us any good? I would like to diy a car charger if I can.
pinout
I opened my Nook HD+, and there is a test point near the dock connector labeled usb-id. If this TP is shorted to GND with a slave USB device attached thru a USB-A to A gender bender, the Nook acts as host as expected per USB-OTG standard. This TP maps to pin 24. Unfortunately, this isn't one of the pins to a Nook HD+ USB cable.
The Nook HD+'s motherboard is labeled EXCELLENTLY. I've gotten most of the pins I can get easily. I think the remaining pins are for HDMI (which makes sense seeing B&N makes an HDMI adapter cable...). The HDMI adapter cable will probably get the remaining pins.
Here's the pinout I've got so far:
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
1 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
2 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
3 - HDMI 5V
4 - LINEOUT-DTC
5 - USB D-
6 - USB D+
7 -
8 -
9 -
10- GND
11-
12-
13- GND
14-
15-
16- GND
17-
18-
19- GND
20-
21-
22-
23-
24- USB-ID
25- LINE-L (Audio)
26- GND
27- LINE-R (Audio)
28- GND
29- GND
30- GND
---------- Post added at 06:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 AM ----------
Also, there are two test points, SDA2-TX and SCL2-RX. These are I2C test points but I can't tell if they are the HDMI side or the system side. The HDMI chip is the TI TPD12s015, datasheet can be googled. Just a hunch that these are the HDMI side, since the datasheet says SDA_B and SCL_B are HDMI side, and they're labeled as SDA2 and SCL2.
connector type
Also, the Nook HD+ connector is NOT the same design as an Apple Dock Connector. The Apple connector has all the pins on one side of the internal fitting, while the Nook's connector has the pins on both sides.
So anyone attempting to mod their own connector should use a Nook connector.
Crud, i just bought one of those Samsung 30 pin to micro SD adapters hoping I could pull it apart and mod it, maybe I can't after all.
#edit# Is this our connector?
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/PDMI
Nope, not a PDMI...
myjess said:
Crud, i just bought one of those Samsung 30 pin to micro SD adapters hoping I could pull it apart and mod it, maybe I can't after all.
#edit# Is this our connector?
(link deleted, I'm too much of a noob to post links, I guess!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, from what I can tell, a PDMI connector is very similar to a Apple Dock Connector, with different pinouts assigned. The Nook HD+ has a unique connector layout from what I can tell.
It's similar to this:
...1...3...5...
...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|..|...|...|
.+-v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---+
.|
.+---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^-+
.....|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|..|...|...|
.....2...4...6...
The Apple and Samsung have all pins on one side only, at double the density.
octachoron said:
Here's the pinout I've got so far:
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
Also, there are two test points, SDA2-TX and SCL2-RX. These are I2C test points but I can't tell if they are the HDMI side or the system side. The HDMI chip is the TI TPD12s015, datasheet can be googled. Just a hunch that these are the HDMI side, since the datasheet says SDA_B and SCL_B are HDMI side, and they're labeled as SDA2 and SCL2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the TX one is the serial out, I got Adam Outler here at ABBQ to solder into it and I got the console out. Sadly it's not mapped anywhere in the connector, but at least I got my serial out now. We are less sure about the RX one, but I'll try it out once I get back home on Sunday.
Big thanks to Adam too!
TX & RX
verygreen said:
ThankDCCs!
the TX one is the serial out, I got Adam Outler here at ABBQ to solder into it and I got the console out. Sadly it's not mapped anywhere in the connector, but at least I got my serial out now. We are less sure about the RX one, but I'll try it out once I get back home on Sunday.
Big thanks to Adam too!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is just a guess, but would not TX = transmit & RX = Recieve ?
Jimcisme said:
This is just a guess, but would not TX = transmit & RX = Recieve ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
So TX definitely transmits the console output, we see it.
But tryign to input stuff onto RX pin does not result in anything visible, so that's why we are less sure if that's the input into the serial console.
But even if not, the console output is the more important one anyway for my kernel debugging plans.
Host Mode?
Does this imply that using the app to change USB to host mode will not work? I have seen several articles on using app with gender changer to get external keyboard or storage to HD+
I opened my Nook HD+, too. And I took some photos.
i40.tinypic.com/6yljxx.jpg
i40.tinypic.com/2yyrspi.jpg
Sorry, new user prevented from posting outside links in their messages.
Now I wonder if 5 test points of USB VBUS (+5VDC)、USB D-、USB D+、GND and USB-ID are connected to a MicroUSB Female adapter (5 pin) like most of Android smartphones and pads, will a MHL MicroUSB to HDMI cable work with the Nook HD+ ?
Has anyone ever opened up the HDMI adapter?
I would like to see whats inside before I rip mine open.
emottau said:
I'm surprised no one has done this yet. I read somewhere that b&n simply modified an iPod connector and often times I've found that means they simply changed the order of the wires in order to gain propriety and therefore extra revenue. I have Two hd+ sitting on my desk with no charge because I'm too cheap to pay 30 bucks for a cable from b&n. I also have one charging cable cut in half so maybe I'll get on this myself, not that I can really take on another project at the moment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
octachoron said:
I opened my Nook HD+, and there is a test point near the dock connector labeled usb-id. If this TP is shorted to GND with a slave USB device attached thru a USB-A to A gender bender, the Nook acts as host as expected per USB-OTG standard. This TP maps to pin 24. Unfortunately, this isn't one of the pins to a Nook HD+ USB cable.
The Nook HD+'s motherboard is labeled EXCELLENTLY. I've gotten most of the pins I can get easily. I think the remaining pins are for HDMI (which makes sense seeing B&N makes an HDMI adapter cable...). The HDMI adapter cable will probably get the remaining pins.
Here's the pinout I've got so far:
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
1 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
2 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
3 - HDMI 5V
4 - LINEOUT-DTC
5 - USB D-
6 - USB D+
7 -
8 -
9 -
10- GND
11-
12-
13- GND
14-
15-
16- GND
17-
18-
19- GND
20-
21-
22-
23-
24- USB-ID
25- LINE-L (Audio)
26- GND
27- LINE-R (Audio)
28- GND
29- GND
30- GND
---------- Post added at 06:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 AM ----------
Also, there are two test points, SDA2-TX and SCL2-RX. These are I2C test points but I can't tell if they are the HDMI side or the system side. The HDMI chip is the TI TPD12s015, datasheet can be googled. Just a hunch that these are the HDMI side, since the datasheet says SDA_B and SCL_B are HDMI side, and they're labeled as SDA2 and SCL2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is an updated pinout + PCB fragment with connector
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
1 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
2 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
3 - HDMI 5V
4 - LINEOUT-DTC
5 - USB D-
6 - USB D+
7 - GND
8 - GND
9 - HDMI CLK-
10- GND
11- HDMI CLK+
12- HDMI D0-
13- GND
14- HDMI D0+
15- HDMI D1-
16- GND
17- HDMI D1+
18- HDMI D2-
19- GND
20- HDMI D2+
21- GND
22- SDA2-TX(SCL2-RX?) - To be checked. Tx/Rx contact order according to HDMI connector pinout
23- SCL2-RX(SDA2-TX?)
24- USB-ID
25- LINE-L (Audio)
26- AGND
27- LINE-R (Audio)
28- AGND
29- GND
30- GND
As you can see, there is full HDMI signals set, so adaptor is just pass-through connection, no external chip needed in adaptor.
Regarding RX, it goes through TI TPD12s015. The PCB pad sits on chip output (system side), which is open-drain and can suppress this signal when HDMI 5V is not activated (reflecting connector's side not powered from HDMI 5V pullup). To activate it TPD12s015 input LS_OE and CT_CP_HPD must be set high (OMAP GPIOs) - VDAC-HDMI pad near processor?
But maybe CONS_2700_UART1 connector near processor will be more suitable for console?
the becalab
onlycash said:
Has anyone ever opened up the HDMI adapter?
I would like to see whats inside before I rip mine open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that.
Have you done any ripping? I don't really have a use for the HDMI cable, but would buy and rip if I could get my mitts on the line level outputs. Can't imagine they'd plumb those, but I can dream.
Here is photos of my hdmi adapter(remove spaces from urls):
Code:
dropbox .com/s/f0tymbsva3cwwcb/hdmi1.JPG
dropbox .com/s/lpvubhb8at7lc8q/hdmi2.JPG
dropbox .com/s/pdw6ibn2zema04n/hdmi3.JPG
It is not so simple as i thought.
This is all very interesting, and some nice pics. I wonder, has anyone attempted (or even considered) to replace the annoying proprietary connector by soldering a replacement micro-USB onto the PCB? Is it even viable?
I can't understand why they would be so daft as to introduce a non-standard connection. Apple can just about get away with it because, well, they're Apple.