As many of you know, the BA stylus tends to loosen over time. Mine was falling out, so I busted open the case and fixed it redneck style.
Tools needed:
a) #6 torx driver
b) sharp diagonal cutters
c) x-acto or similar sharp knife
d) patience
Have a look:
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Back up your stuff! Your backup battery doesn't last that long - about 30 minutes max. When I finished and put it all back together I was at 1% lol.
Remove the sim, SD card, stylus and battery.
Remove 4 screws on back of case under battery (peel away the 'warranty void' sticker haha) and 2 screws on sides of case near the top.
My case was very dirty, I cleaned everything with cotton swabs and alchohol - especially near the camera.
I used a small pair of very sharp diagonal cutters to create a hard rubber shim, then tuned it with a knife.
Placed behind the original plastic detent, the shim acts like a spring and retains pressure against the stylus.
I used an old rubber thingy I found in the garage. Just make sure it's not too hard
I had to repeatedly close the case, check the tension, and adjust the shim. Finally I got it super nice. It feels like new.
Tune the length of the shim to match the BA case. This way it will be retained in the proper location and won't shift around. Mine could be a few mm longer if I were super anal.
Use loctite on the case screws. The side screws on my O2 XDA IIs were loose, in fact I noticed one had fallen out. I looked in my pants pocket and LOL there it was! If I hadn't done this mod at this exact time, I would have lost that screw. Weird, no?
Anyhow, hope someone finds this helpful. Enjoy!
on my BA, instead of using a rubber thingy since that plastic thingy which was supposed to keep the stylus in place broke in half when i tested its springiness with my screwdriver hehehe. so what i did is i just lined the stylus cavity with my trusty duct tape. voila, tight as a barely legal babe. just one reminder, make sure you have the buttons lined up properly when you screw back the cover, especially the volume up/down buttons... mine was locked at the down setting... would correct it as soon as another event forces me to open up again the BA
Worked like a charm! Many thanks!
Alternative fix
Great suggestion...although I came up with another option, less stressful than pulling my BA apart.
Using the standard stylus, soak the plastic end in boiling water for a while (it doesnt go soft, just a bit more flexible) and then bend it slightly as shown. With a bit of tweaking, you can get it so that it has just enough interference to stay in, yet easily slide out. Its just the end plastic bit thats curved and I had to glue the threaded end of the plastic that screws into the metal body before this as it was loose from earlier attempts to bend the plastic without heating it.
Tried it with the combination pen/stylus which dont have a long plastic end....bit more difficult as I tried to bend the aluminium body....which resulted in a 2 piece stylus (ie broken)
HTH
Another solution
A very simple solution is to put a bit of sticky tape in the black part of plastic spare of your Stylus. It will not move of the BA
another alt fix
I found that if you are going to take your BA apart to fix the stylus capture tab you might try to put some silicone in between the back of the tab and the side wall you will have to let it dry for about 24 hours before inserting your stylus again but this should correct the problem of it wearing out and becoming loose.
ok... I've adopted this solution...
Related
Hi Folks,
may I introduce you poor man's desk stand:
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This construction is open source. Feel free to use and improve it as you like The only constriction is, you have to post it (photos) on this thread, if you rebuild and improve my poor man's desk stand.
yet another nice idea
DN41
I love these I always make one when someone suggests one, I've got like six littering my desk
Push this thread
haha sound tha like mate just wantz painting or graffn up
that's awesome... no charging thoug... but still... at that price...
try this....
PS: Its not me in the video !!
Cool idea I think a lot of people became poor cause of the expensiveness of the HD2
GoGo Stand
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Lord60 said:
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome for just $5
Great job dude,
I have in my mind something like this, could you please post the measssurements of the base of your coarton dock?
I'm looking for an angled micro usb data cable so I can attach it to the dock and charge it at the same time, also I think I can get it covered with FIBERGLASS and then paintwith some glossy black spry paint..
That's what I have in mind, just need to start with the meassurements.
Thanks for all!
Lord60 said:
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i saw this on this on the interweb around last summer. it was not this nice, the guy had posted how to make this yourself with a template. i made one from the side of a milk jug. it worked ok. i since bought the EB with kickstand so i tossed it. i dont always use the EB so i placed an order for these things. thanks for throwing this thing out for us.
Wire stand variation allowing charging & headphones
Hi all. I decided to make a version of the paperclip desk stand that would allow me to keep the charger plugged in and listen to headphones. You will need:
- 1 plastic coated wire clothes hanger OR ~ 60 cm of coated wire - not too heavy gauge or it will be hard to bend.
- Pliers
- Cloth to grip wire with to avoid damage from pliers
- Paper to put template on
- A ruler and pen
Method: Rule a 29cm line on the paper. Starting at the left hand end, mark the following positions on the line - 6.5cm, 11.5cm, 14.5cm, 19.5cm and 28.5cm. Hold the left hand end of the wire up against the line and transfer the marks to the wire, including the 29cm end which is halfway. Turn the wire, keeping the 29cm mark in line with the end of the ruled line and transfer the marks from right back to left on the remaining ~30cm of wire. Use the pliers to trim the excess wire off the end of the wire. Now, starting in the middle of the wire, bend the wire ~75-90 degrees at the 28.5cm marks - there should be about a cm of wire between the bends. Next, bend the wire into a hairpin bend at the 19.5cm marks. Then bend the wire ~85-90 degrees at the 14.5cm marks. This makes two 5cm "legs" at the back of the stand. Bend the wire ~85-90 degrees back down at the 11.5cm marks. Then make hairpin bends at the 6.5cm marks. Using the cloth and pliers, grip the 4 "hairpins" and squeeze the wires as close together as you can get them. Last, grip the short front ends of the wire and bend them outwards to avoid scratching the phone. Voila - a stand that can hold your HD2 while it's charging (pretend my old iPaq in the pic is the HD2 I used to take the photos )
Note: it isn't super stable, but it isn't intended to be.
Note 2: the other stand is "one I prepared earlier" from an over-the-door hanger. More stable, but doesn't have room for the charging cable.
My new hobby - creative accessories for the HD2
I have a case with magnet to launch/suspend my Nexus. It also has the nice possibility to flip the front to the back. But unfortunately the magnet seems to be sufficiently strong enough to switch even in this position (from the back side). Any idea on how to prevent this? Some "magnetic isolation" from the backside?
Thanks!
I'd need to see a pic of the case really.
However with my old case I snapped the pointy bits off of some drawing pins by treading them in to the kitchen floor & lined them up in a square two across, two down. Then I wrapped it in aluminium foil and put sticky tape around it. Then I stuck the little square between my Nexus 7 case & the back of my Nexus 7. It worked perfectly & I still had the sleep function.
You might just want to replace the magnet with a weaker one if you can get to it easily
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
It is this case:
http://www.amazon.de/Schutzhülle-Fu...UTF8&colid=D0Y9AZ5AA2ME&coliid=I14S1WK45KAPCD
@Rock-&-Roll-Hedgehog: I didn't fully understand your instructions. But basically you suggest, that aluminium foil at the back of the nexus will reduce the magnetic field?
Thanks for your answers!
Guntram said:
It is this case:
http://www.amazon.de/Schutzhülle-Fu...UTF8&colid=D0Y9AZ5AA2ME&coliid=I14S1WK45KAPCD
@Rock-&-Roll-Hedgehog: I didn't fully understand your instructions. But basically you suggest, that aluminium foil at the back of the nexus will reduce the magnetic field?
Thanks for your answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I got some drawing pins like these
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bash off the pointy bits you only want the heads. Lay them in a two by two configuration and wrap them in aluminium foil. I think the drawing pins are made from copper but don't quote me. You buy them at any stationers for a pound or so (couple of dollars for a big box). They then seem to shield the back from the magnetic field.
PS Guntram are you German? You need Reißzwecke, metal ones no plastic.
Thanks for the advice!
I've used the botton of a tea candle now. Still not sure thought, wether its the material or just the "size" of the object - but it works!
Any sort of "thick enough, big enough" piece of metal will diffuse the magnetic field. So your bit of metal from the bottom of the candle was enough. Aluminum foil would most likely work if you fold it enough times.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
bsoplinger said:
Aluminum foil would most likely work if you fold it enough times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't there need to be some iron in there?
Hedgehog's drawing pin solution is pretty clever. Could you tell me whereabouts in the case 'tray' you placed them? Save me a bunch of trial and error by giving me a starting point.
formicae said:
Doesn't there need to be some iron in there?
Hedgehog's drawing pin solution is pretty clever. Could you tell me whereabouts in the case 'tray' you placed them? Save me a bunch of trial and error by giving me a starting point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Iron no, metal yes. Actually any conductive material would work.
As far as location goes, try about 3/4 inch up and 1.5 in from the bottom right corner when held in landscape orientation with the USB port to the right and power switch and volume up.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2
bsoplinger said:
Iron no, metal yes. Actually any conductive material would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conductors that are neither ferromagnetic nor paramagnetic have no effect on static magnetic fields... other than changing the distance involved which will reduce the field stregth; otoh a thick hunk of paper or plastic would do the same thing. Excellent conductors (gold, silver, platinum) can effect rapidly changing magnetic fields due to induced eddy currents, but that doesn't apply here.
But don't take my word for it - take two small permanent magnets and some aluminum foil, and see if the Al foil changes how they attract each other any differently than paper of the same thickness.
The poster that used thumbtack heads succeeded either because the additional thickness decreased the mag field below the switch latch threshold, or more likely the tack heads had some iron in them. (Probably not nickel, manganese or other exotics)
A thin shim of Mu-Metal would work, or something ferrous would work too - possibly a shim of anything sufficiently thick would also do the trick.
cheers
I spend a lot of time imaging the best possible protection for my Note 2.
Those tasks are listed:
1. Best possible case.
2. Get rid of hardware keys usage.
3. No USB cable.
4. Wireless charge.
Solutions are those, but anyone are welcome to suggest anything better.
1. Genuine Otterbox Defender case.
Most of us know that hard case with built-in screen protector. Well done, Otterbox! You already saved my phones few times, Note 2 included.
2. No hardware keys at all. Possible or not?
In Note 2 we can activate the sleeping phone with GlanceView. This built-in feature makes me jump!
Other buttons are well virtualized with Button Savior or similar software.
OK, we cannot turn on the phone when it fully off. Let it that way for now.
3. No USB cable. We want to preserve the microUSB connector as long as possible.
Three sub-tasks:
3.1. Charging. See p.p. 4.
3.2. ADB. You can use wireless ADB, works pretty well.
3.3. File transfer. I recently discovered WiFi Transfer software and $2 is nothing too much.
4. Wireless charge.
This is definitely the most difficult task.
Let sub-task it also this way:
4.1. Wireless charging without the Otterbox Defender.
Easily done in many ways, usually with Palm Wireless charger, about $20 on eBay, and ready to use or self-made charging back cover/antenna. There are many topics on XDA and other forums, don;t want to bother you reading another one.
4.2. Making Otterbox Defender 'compatible' with wireless charging.
I decided to cut a circular hole in the back of the Defender Otterbox. The most difficult here is to correctly position the hole when we cannot be sure about as soon as no charging obtained through the thick plastic and rubber.
Now the tricky part. I could not make photos during the whole process, so going to try to explain the steps as detailed as possible.
-------------------
Step 1.
Obtain some cheap thin semi-hard case like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130793094841?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Put it on, position the phone on the wireless charger and make it operational.
Mark the plastic around the charger antenna.
Remove the case.
Step 2.
Use small scissors or knife to cut the hole in the plastic case. Put the case on the phone again and verify the position of antenna.
I wasn't sure in myself so had to buy two cases but succeeded with the first one.
Step 3.
Put the plastic case into the back half of the Otterbox Defender with the rubber on. So the plastic case with the hole is like a back cover of the Note.
Mark the circle around on the internal surface of the back half of the Defender.
Step 4.
Measure the diameter of the antenna. Mine was 55.4mm. I considered the radius about 28mm.
Use a kind of compass-caliper (if you finished your high school in XX century like me, you should know what is it) to draw a perfect 28mm radius circle on paper. Mark the center and cut.
Step 5
Put the paper disk into the hole so you can mark the center of the hole on the back half of the Defender.
Step 6
Cutting the Defender back half and rubber with 55mm head (I used this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/150957856573?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
Watch you eyes, hands and other valuable part of your body. Keep kids and noncombatants off.
Step 7
Use a sharp knife to clean the hole from the plastic and rubber residue, also clean what left from the cutting. We will need the plastic disk and the rubber one also later.
Step 8.
Verify the charging is OK., I succeeded in the very first attempt.
Step 9. Unfinished.
Sorry, but this step is 'under construction'. The idea was to use the plastic and rubber disks as s cover for the hole when not charging.
Still in development stage.
Very chaotic yeah? And no photos.
Well, I was temporary disabled with one working hand (right) and one working leg (left). To much free time made me extremely constructive.
So I didn't risk to hold DSLR in my hand.
Now I'm more or less recovered even allowed to drive. So photos will be added ASAP.
Also I'm more than happy to listen any critics and suggestions how to do it better/simpler or why not to do it at all.
Plastic case (original and with the hole cut)
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1982 year old caliper made in the USSR for military R&D
Otterbox Defender with the hole cut
Charging...
Plastic and rubber disks (glued) to form a cover. 'Under construction'.
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Code:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271157192909
Paying particular attention to the gamepad skin, would this be a good way to protect the pad from scratching itself? what do you think?
I just bought a new white xperia play and don't want the pad to get scratched again. I already have a Trident case to protect the outside of the phone so would probably throw the outer skin away. Oh and yes, I do have OCD
LordBattleBeard said:
Paying particular attention to the gamepad skin, would this be a good way to protect the pad from scratching itself? what do you think?
I just bought a new white xperia play and don't want the pad to get scratched again. I already have a Trident case to protect the outside of the phone so would probably throw the outer skin away. Oh and yes, I do have OCD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had one before when I sold the Xperia Play last year, it protected the surface of the gamepad and is durable from light scratches and tears. Yesterday I have bought this exactly product again for the Xperia Play 4G that is coming later this week. The adhesive is sticky but not very sticky upon light touching and can be moved around until you desire the location, it will hold on to the pad but you can melt the adhesive if you wish with a hot blow dryer to insure maximum bonding to the gamepad. This is the only protection that I know that protects the gamepad from scratches made from the screen partition of the phone.
Im currently using the black version of this and ive gotta say, its pretty cool. The only problem is trying to stick it on perfectly at the start. It does protect the gamepad and the back for me(Im careful with my phone:silly , but it kind of makes the space inbetween the phone and gamepad smaller, so when you slide it out, it doesnt 'click'.
MRCMidnight said:
I had one before when I sold the Xperia Play last year, it protected the surface of the gamepad and is durable from light scratches and tears. Yesterday I have bought this exactly product again for the Xperia Play 4G that is coming later this week. The adhesive is sticky but not very sticky upon light touching and can be moved around until you desire the location, it will hold on to the pad but you can melt the adhesive if you wish with a hot blow dryer to insure maximum bonding to the gamepad. This is the only protection that I know that protects the gamepad from scratches made from the screen partition of the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Have you tried taking it off? if so, does it leave any sticky residue or anything else not desirable on your pad?
Is the pad any harder to open and close or is there still a healthy gap? Thanks
CyberScopes said:
Im currently using the black version of this and ive gotta say, its pretty cool. The only problem is trying to stick it on perfectly at the start. It does protect the gamepad and the back for me(Im careful with my phone:silly , but it kind of makes the space inbetween the phone and gamepad smaller, so when you slide it out, it doesnt 'click'.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh really. Is it substantially harder or is there still enough space to make it a healthy fit? Thanks. To be honest, I always thought that the force the pad opened/closed with was unhealthy in itself, so the lack of this happening could be a good thing.
Oh and I just noticed, it covers part of the touchpad controls. Does this affect how they operate?
Thanks for the detailed explanation. Have you tried taking it off? if so, does it leave any sticky residue or anything else not desirable on your pad?
Is the pad any harder to open and close or is there still a healthy gap? Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When I first had the sticker, I have not applied the hot air on the sticker, I should have done so before because the sticker did peel more frequently from the sliding and crinkles, (sticker latches to the screen part and sticks). I did prior modifications like shorten the edge but before I had a problem with flex cable replacement twice (not caused by the sticker) my phone efforts upkeep has made me upset and give up, I removed the sticker number of times and no sticky residue was left. When I get this sticker again, I will use the hot air to melt the adhesive more when it does hit my desired result. As for the backside, the corners will peel out unless you have the phone under a case, then it won't be problem. Again, I have not used the hot air the first time, my experience is varied on a non-hot air application.
No effect to touchpads and i like it cause it makes the gamepad part more "connected" to the phone part.
I got the carbon fiber stickers in the mail today. Here is what you get inside:
Gamepad Carbon Fiber Sticker
Back Plate Carbon Fiber Sticker
Generic Screen Protector
I have already applied the stickers but not the included screen protector as I used the screen protector that I got from the mixed case earlier in the month. I do not have pictures right now as it is late to show you the application of the stickers. On initial thought, the gamepad is a little bit tough to slide in and out, be careful when sliding as always. I already hot-aired my stickers and that should harden the adhesive to the surfaces, I'll make a review next month on how it fairs.
Hello,
So I looked around this forum to see if anyone had any bike mounts that they used for their m8.
It seems like there's very few of us who don't like armbands and bike bags don't seem large enough to hold an HTC One m8.
So with that in mind, I've decided to post to help out people in a similar situation.
My HTC One m8 has an otterbox defender case (so it's quite large)
Here's some photos of the Nite Ize Universal Handlebar Mount
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Based on the specs, the m8 with the defender case sits just outside the max range of this mount. But I figured it's made of rubber so maybe I could be stretched a millimetre more.
The Mount uses one piece of rubber the stretches under the handlebar and then wraps around your phone to then hook onto the metal piece.
I had to attach it to my handlebar because the handle bar was thinner, giving me more rubber to wrap around the phone. I tried placing the Mount on the top of the Fork, but it was too thick.
I believe my handlebar is 1 inch in diameter. But I'll check it more precisely when I get a measuring tape.
As you can see its primarily used for Apple iPhone as the space in front of the phone seems to favour the slide to unlock method.
Because the defender case is so thick and large, I had to force the rubber to stretch into the clip, it's on pretty snugly, and I doubt it'd fall off. I've ridden off road in grassy parks so far with no issues or worry that it'd fall off. And even if it did... I believe in the defender!
From the above photo, you can see how the rubber band hooks in place. Without the cross section where the phone is resting on, the Mount will definitely rotate and face the ground, due to the heavy phone and gravity.
Here's the other side of the Mount, you can see how it wraps around the handle bar. That metal piece is the single metal piece that extends to the other side for the rubber to hook on to.
I haven't ridden on mountain bike trails yet. As its still cold here. But so far this mount looks promising, especially if you use tasker or anything of the like, to automatically disable lock screen and whatnot. The the band really gets in the way of unlocking the phone.
For my purposes, it fits the use I need it for. A position near the front of the bike that can maintain a connection to my bluetooth headphones (non noise cancelling of course), ease of access and not attached to my body (in the event I wipe out... But then again.. If I wipe out, the bike will definitely wipe out and worse, with my phone firmly attached for the ride...)
But this post is for those who wants to know whether this mount can support the huge defender case. And yes it can.. Provided your handlebar is not thick.
Enjoy!
Sent from my HTC One_M8 using xda app-developers app
On my specialized tarmac, road bike, I keep it on the top tube right in front of the stem. Holds like a champ. On my Mtb, fs specialized epic comp carbon, on a very aggressive downhill, it came off and bounced.....on the trails it held just fine. Don't know how it would handle a hardtail on trails, don't have one.
Only thing I spend more time on then my phone is my bikes....
http://deltacycle.com/accessories/hold-its/smartphone-caddy-ii
Been using this since January and it has held up through tumbles with my N5. I have nothing but faith for this. Also comes with those little felt circular things you put under furniture to put on the inside corners to add padding. Plus the red and black went too well with my theme lol(you know you do it too).
munsterrr said:
http://deltacycle.com/accessories/hold-its/smartphone-caddy-ii
Been using this since January and it has held up through tumbles with my N5. I have nothing but faith for this. Also comes with those little felt circular things you put under furniture to put on the inside corners to add padding. Plus the red and black went too well with my theme lol(you know you do it too).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That looks like exactly the type of mount I'm after as I want a stem mounted option.
Do you know if this company ship to the UK?
Sent from my HTC One_M8