Related
Hey guys, I was just about to purchase this case but then started wondering if it would adversely affect my signal strength so I thought I would jump on here and see if any of you have used an aluminum case and what the results were...
Thanks for any info, you guys rock!
It has a very good possibility of affecting the signal since the antenna will have a clunk of metal around it. But I dont have any first hand knowledge. Why not just get a plastic case. They effect it less.
I really want a case that has a door with a window on it..do you know of any plastic one?
Anyone else have any experience with aluminum cases?
Perhaps I am a pioneer in the area of aluminum cases and the HTC Mogul...or perhaps no one is paying attention to this thread because it's posted in the wrong area. I don't suppose an admin could move this over to the accessories sub forum could they.
Aside from this, where is the antenna located in the mogul? I'm thinking that if I do end up with signal issues I will cut slits the length of the antenna in the case.
Any info on this would be greatly appreciated!
conradcliff said:
Perhaps I am a pioneer in the area of aluminum cases and the HTC Mogul...or perhaps no one is paying attention to this thread because it's posted in the wrong area. I don't suppose an admin could move this over to the accessories sub forum could they.
Aside from this, where is the antenna located in the mogul? I'm thinking that if I do end up with signal issues I will cut slits the length of the antenna in the case.
Any info on this would be greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds pretty cool, can you link us to the particular case mentioned? Other than that I have no experience with metal (aluminum is considered a metal for the banterers) cases either. Personally I would stick to plastic, but sounds neat.
There's a link to it in the first post, but here it is again.
I've been walking around with an ipaq 2215 for the last 5 years with an aluminum case and that thing has saved my life on many occasions.
The plastic would be ok too I think, but only if I could find one that had a door that closed over the screen..
Who do you think I should talk to to get this moved over into accessories? I didn't even realize there was an accessories category when I posted this..
conradcliff said:
There's a link to it in the first post, but here it is again.
I've been walking around with an ipaq 2215 for the last 5 years with an aluminum case and that thing has saved my life on many occasions.
The plastic would be ok too I think, but only if I could find one that had a door that closed over the screen..
Who do you think I should talk to to get this moved over into accessories? I didn't even realize there was an accessories category when I posted this..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That case is awesome. I really like it. Interested to see if it ruins the signal quality, or possibly enhance it lol I dont know.. It looks properly designed, I am sure the manufacturer took the antenna location into consideration. I would go for it. Let me know how it works out, hopefully by then one is still available. I can grab one myself.
I will have this moved for you.
Thanks for getting this moved for me Ryan..yeah, I think I'm going to purchase the case within the next few days unless someone pipes in with a negative review.
In the meantime, does anyone know where the antenna is located in the 6800?
Thanks for any help!
So, I came in here to bump the thread up one more time before I bought the case, but it was still at the top...doesn't seem like people are too concerned about Titan accessories any longer
I guess 150 views is enough though, I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy.
Will update once I've tested in the low signal areas that I frequent.
I had the exact same case for my xv6700 and never had any signal issues. The case worked well and kept my 6700 looking brand new!
I really liked the lexan screen cover.
I tried the seidio rubberized case for my titan. it worked awesome for about 10 months until the little tiny tabs that held it on broke off. Only a 90 day warrenty so SOL. Now I use a cudora pouch.
So let me know how the aircraft aluminum one fits!!
That's great to hear! I'm going to order it tonight and maybe upload some pics when I get it..
hi conradcliff
dont forget test review the case (how about the look, size etc) and upload the pict, i want to buy also, but it seems need 2 week to deliver it to my country
Oh I most certainly will..I'll also post the coupon code they gave me for 10% off, hopefully it will work for anyone.
Initial Review: Monaco Aluminum Case for Mogul/6800
Short answer: A well designed, sturdy case well worth the ~ $20 price. I'll add some photos soon. Sorry if I stepped on anyone's toes who intended to write one of these up, but hey, two opinions are better than one!
I've had three of these cases for three separate Sprint 6800's. Two black, one silver. For those familiar with Monaco Aluminum Cases (they made/make these for other phones, such as the 6700), this embodiment is just as good.
Pros:
Very solid design - this case can easily outlast the life of your phone. Aside from slight exterior discoloration, dings, and scratches, this case should easily withstand all normal, day-to-day use.
Inner liner - this case includes an inner liner made of neoprene that protects the phone from minor scratch/abrasion marks; that provides a very snug fit for the phone; and provides *minimal* fall protection. Two-story drops and projectile usage by angry girlfriends are not protected.
Access - the case provides access to all buttons, dials, interfaces (except for touch screen & slide-out KB). Luckily, almost all functionality of this phone can be effectuated without the touch screen (not the TP, grrrr), so you will not have to open the case too often, which is very nice. When you do open the case, the keyboard slides over the open top of the case nicely.
Vents (Air/Signal) - there are vents on the top, back, and right side of the case for air and/or signal paths. I've experienced no signal difference, or even heat difference, with this case. I'm sure it does insulate the phone to some degree, but it's minimal.
Belt Clip - the case comes with a belt clip and swivel that are relatively secure and convenient. I've had one belt clip split (the plunger portion), but it is still very usable. You don't have to use them, but I do. The round swivel that screws into the back of the case provides a nicer grip of the phone, IMHO. If you don't like either, you don't have to use them.
Cons:
Weight - it does add weight to your phone. It's not extreme, but holding the phone for extended periods of time may prove annoying by some with this extra weight. I don't mind it at all, and I have a headset and use speakerphone anyhow.
User Adjustment Required - Out of the box, this case is NOT ready to use! You absolutely must gauge how well the metal clip engages the main body of the case. Every case I've received required me to slightly bend the clip inwards to provide a stronger hold. If the hold is too weak, brushing against the side of the case (by your arm when walking with the case attached to your waist side, or by anything you may brush against) can result in your phone falling out to the ground. So, adjust the clip right away, and ALWAYS, periodically check it, as repeated opening may loosen the hold over time. Also, when wearing this case attached to the side of your hip, attach it to your left side so the metal clip and catch of the case are facing behind you. This way, brushing against something while you're walking will not accidentally open your case allowing your phone to drop out.
Plastic Cover - this cover can scratch. I tried placing a screen protectors over it, but they would never stay. The oil from your face/hands/etc, along with the lack of a frame protecting the edges of a protector from friction are mostly to blame. However I've learned that with a little care, the plastic screen can survive everyday use quite nicely.
So, I highly recommend this case!!
10% off coupon code -> EIWQC1257830
"Simply insert the coupon code during our checkout process and instantly save 10% off the merchandise.
You can use the coupon up to 5 times. This code will expire after 60 days [from 10/7/09]."
There's more to know though so don't buy until you get my review..hopefully tomorrow.
I know this post is quite useless. I just wanted to vent out my frustration.
I just got off the phone with a B&N rep after 20 minutes of talking--because the rep kept beating around the bush and kept placing me on hold--and was told that I needed to callback on Monday to get the tracking no. for my 2nd--yup, this happened twice before--USB cable replacement. Yup, it broke again like the first one I got included with the NC--SIMPLY BECAUSE OF IT'S POOR QUALITY.
In generic micro USB cables, you would notice that most of them are made of rubber material, especially the one covering the tiny metal tip that you insert on the device's USB port, which makes them quite durable. Even if you bend it intentionally multiple times, the metal tip will not be affected that much. Only downside is, it doesn't fast charge the NC. In my experience, it takes a day and a half (about 36 hours) to be able to charge the NC fully. And yup, my NC is now turned off for a week (and counting).
The NC's stock USB cable however is made out of a gloss plastic material, probably to give way to the LED? light indicator? Downside is, it gets cracked/chipped off easily whether it was done unintentionally or not, because of the plastic material not being 'hard' enough, and that's where most NC owners like me are getting pissed off.
You have to be very careful whenever you charge the NC--you need to make sure that it's on a flat surface, not on a surface where it can sink itself say for example, a foam bed, so that the cable will not 'sink' with it in and put pressure on the metal tip, finally chipping off the plastic coating.
Do you guys know of any alternative that can fast-charge the NC like it's stock USB cable? Does anyone have the ability to modify the NC's stock USB cable to coat it with rubber or something to make it more durable?
I'm sure there are others who are experiencing these things. Hope we can gather around and start a discussion about getting a permanent fix. Maybe rally at a local B&N store or something, I dunno.
Well, a cheap and quick bit would be to wrap it with electrical tape. If you have an electronics store or Radio shack carrying it, there is also something called shrink tubing. this is a rubberish tube that when carefully heated with a heat gun (not a blow dryer) or a lighter, will shrink down around wires, or plastic.
But, I am rather annoyed with this serious design flaw as well. Would be nice if B&N either recalled these cables with a properly designed one, or get a 3rd party available to handle that.
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
epoxy putty usually cures to something a bit too brittle for what this really needs. As the OP said, the plastic on the plugs are really way too brittle for what it's meant for. other than those things, the other option I can think of is some of that latex dip sold in some hardware stores, or sex shops. wrap the metal bit in tape, then give it a few dips, let it cure, then carefully cut the tape off. instant rubberized plug. could even carefully cut an indicator window for the charge light.
heat shrink tubing sounds best. will try that. you can get it from home depot or lowes. get the multiple size package. it is really best to use a heat gun. if you dont know what your doing and use a lighter you will burn right through the heat shrink.
It sounds like you might be looking for Sugru. It hardens to a rubbery flexible consistency. There's also a how to floating around the web on making your own using caulk and ...baking soda? I think?
For that matter, a flexible clear caulk might do the trick.
I was thinking that RTV silicone (downside is long cure time) or maybe hot melt glue would be worth a try. Either one would be translucent enough to see the LED color. The Sugru looks interesting, although opaque like heat shrink tubing.
You could probably use something like Scotch Coat (more or less liquid electrical tape..) or plasti-dip perhaps?
*I'm still waiting on my NC to arrive. So, I'm not sure exactly which portion of the connector you're talking about. If it's the entire outside portion that is typically metal... this is normally a chasis ground which equalizes the chasis potential between the NC and whatever it's plugged into..., and really shouldn't be coated with anything
I ordered this off Amazon with the intent of fixing several things in my house. I was going to use the clear for the tip of the charger.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027JIEPU
I think the shame of it is that all they had to do was use a strain relief sleeve like one of there:
Using the shrink tubing-
1. make sure you get a size large enough to get around the connection end.
2. Measure out a length. you want at least from the bottom of the N light to about 1/2 inch past the nub where the cord goes into the connector.
3. Slip the tube into place
4. Using a heat gun or lighter, carefully shrink the tube into place (NOTE: with a lighter, keep the flame moving, don't let it linger too long or you'll melt something)
5. If the resulting reinforcement doesn't seem enough, feel free to add another layer or 2.
WHAT DOES THIS ACCOMPLISH?
Well, most of the failure pictures I have seen, as well as the failed cord of my own, it seems the plastic is too friable (meaning it cracks really easy) to handle the stresses put on it at that end. Most of the cracks and fractures take place below the N, towards the cable side of the connection.
By adding this, it not only adds a semi flexible reinforcement around where it likes to crack up, it also stiffens and immobilizes a stretch of the cable, relieving a little of the stress that can happen in that part.
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Srilania said:
While other things might do the trick, and even electrical tape could do, this tubing is about the best option I've seen so far.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heat shrink tubing isn't a bad idea. I don't know how readily available it is in consumer stores and stuff... but I know I've used the Heat shrink tubing with the glue inside on quite a few connectors (higher end coaxial/heliax connectors tend to come with it). It's a bit thicker and more durable than typical heat shrink tubing, and the glue holds it solidly in place.
I used scotch tape. ugly, but it works.
Heat Shrink tubing shouldn't be too hard to find, most any electrical / hardware store should carry it, even Wal-mart will have it from time to time in the automotive section.
A better option may be plastidip. It gives a thick rubnery coating.
Sent from my NookColor using Tapatalk
After having a Nook Color for less than 6 months, mine just broke this morning! I would do without the LED indicator for a durable rubber casing.
Imbroglio said:
I was thinking of reinforcing the plug end of the cable by encasing it in a big wad of epoxy putty.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Epoxy works very well actually, but you need to put it on the inside, not the outside. Split open the plastic cover. Clean it up so it fits back together cleanly. Mix up a batch of translucent 5 Minute epoxy and completely fill the cavity with epoxy. Fit it back around the cable and secure it with a clip or clamp of your choice. A small binder clip works perfectly. After about 5 or ten minutes you can remove the clip and use an exacto knife to clean up the excess. Clamp it up again and
let it cure for 12 hours or so. Works well for me.
Triple wall heat shrink is just what you need. A heat gun (not a lighter, it won't work well) is the way to go. A hair dryer most likely won't have the heat needed.
I use the stuff in my home business and have tons of it...if you need some let me know!
I bent the male end that plugs into the nook unit... I Pressed the male end against a counter in my kitchen so it was bent back into place, put a few spots of super glue (the kind you get at the dollar store) and waited overnight for it to dry. good as new, no more wiggle or bend in my usb end.
So lately I've been trying to figure out a way to get my tablet mounted at the optimum position for GPS usage without obstructing anything. In my van I have the Arkon seat bolt tablet mount, which is perfect because it keeps the tablet lower in the dash area so it's not blocking my view or baking in the sun, and it's also a solid mount point. I'd have no where else to mount it in the van aside from the window if it wasn't for this mount, and I absolutely don't like window mounting anything bigger than a cell phone. So in that instance, things work out great. Recently I put that Arkon mount in my car, which is a Hyundai Elantra. I thought since the distance from the seat bolt to the mount area would be less, I'd have more (if anything, too much) "neck" to work with. It turned out to be the opposite. My Elantra is stick shift, so when I had the tablet mounted in the most convenient spot that reached, I was all but punching the screen when I went to 3rd/5th gear. The only other alternative was to have it sitting over in the passenger area, which works for me but it adds as a huge inconvenience to any passengers in that seat since their left knee is where the tablet is. As a result I decided to put the Arkon seat bolt mount back in the van and work on something else for the car.
I have an empty space under my head unit for random storage, etc. I began to wonder if I could somehow utilize that space for incorporating a mount there. It would be the perfect height because it's higher up from the gear shift and it would definitely be optimum viewing for GPS usage. Originally I made the perfectly sized wooden block that had a slight slight slope to it so it would wedge itself in place. I then epoxy'd a BluRex Amazon case to it that I wasn't too happy with and was no longer using. This proved to be an awesome 10 minute mount, but it also gave me zero adjustability. I began to think was going to be important since last time we were on a road trip when the road I was on was going to be 3 hours long my wife watched a movie, so I knew I'd want a way to move it around for best viewing in multiple scenarios.
Here's two pictures from that build:
http://i.imgur.com/dsfQx.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/guw86.jpg
I began to give it more thought. I knew that the empty space under my head unit was going to be the mount point, but I just had to figure out how. I searched through multiple mounts, particularly from Arkon. In the end I bought this mount on eBay for about 20 bucks. It came with a suction cup which I knew wouldn't work for my uses. My plan was to cut the arm off, drill a hole into a wooden block, then fill it with epoxy and shove the arm in. The block of wood in question would be a piece that I cut to perfectly fit the open slot under my deck with a slight slant to it, that way as I pushed it in, it wedged itself in place (much like the last mount)
When I got this mount from eBay I began to wonder if I even needed to cut the arm off. Fortunately the height of the suction cup base was ALMOST the height of the opening in my dash. I figured all I had to do was wedge that in place and I wouldn't have to do the whole sha-bang with the wooden block and epoxy. I ended up cutting off the suction cup since it was useless in my case. The bottom of the plastic suction cup area had some flat ridges, so I figured I'd use double sided tape instead of epoxy to adhere it to a flat piece of wood. The flat piece of wood was to bump the thickness up just enough to replace the need for that wooden wedge.
http://i.imgur.com/yHOLR.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/l9mRO.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/O4Gin.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KFJad.jpg
In the last picture you can see that I flipped things around. Originally I had the arm facing downward, but when I had the tablet mounted, 5th gear was still a problem as the gear shift would nearly hit the tablet. I knew if I flipped it upside down the arm would be facing upward, giving me some height... so I re-did the tape and put it on the other side. Since I mounted it more to the right (to ensure there was a super low chance of the steering wheel ever obstructing view, even if I was leaning far to the left while driving) I sensed a small amount of uneven stability since there was nothing keeping the left side tight against the roof of the opening. A small wooden wedge later and we were golden.
http://i.imgur.com/t7v4P.jpg
I ended up painting that wooden piece black to blend it in a little bit. I also noticed while driving that some roads had a degree of ripple to them, which would cause the tablet to sway back and forth. It didn't obstruct my view-ability of the screen at all, but if I was in an area where the tablet was casting a glare from the screen it became more obvious. On a hunch I pulled out two quarters and slid them under the arm mount, which is where I thought I was seeing a degree of flexing. Surprisingly it helped quite a bit and that area no longer has any flex. Not bad.
http://i.imgur.com/gzcV0.jpg
Final product:
http://i.imgur.com/LoUZT.jpg
Hopefully those of you out there who are finding some tablet mounts are *almost* perfect but not a home run can utilize some sort of DIY ideas like I did to make it work. I now have a solid mount for both vehicles, so no more worries about where the tablet will sit, etc. No complaints there. :good:
Great mod! I too have a compartment like that when I replaced my factory double din to a single din radio. To compensate, I had to put in a CD holder type opening, much like your area. I just have slots for CD cases. In my case, it wouldn't work out too well because my opening is held by epoxy and because of the texas heat, loses it's adhesiveness big time and alas, too weak for N7.
I have since bought a Kropsson Aero, which can hold both my tablet and Sensation. I do wish someone made a mount that can fit like the Aero can. Oh well, sorry to detract, just wanted to give you some kudos in getting a mount that works for you! :good:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
JaSauders said:
I'm curious on how the epoxy is failing you. Is it not gripping like it should? A little side story - I epoxy'd a cracked side skirt in my first car, and when I got tires one day the hydraulic lift bowed the sides out pretty dramatically. (this wasn't a body kit - just lower siding from the factory. Here's a picture of a car nearly identical to what I had). It took the weight of my car for 30 seconds on that lift before the pressure was enough that it broke the epoxy bond. We may not have Texas heat, but here in Pennsylvania we have some crazy cold winters and some pretty muggy summers... I would think the differentiation wouldn't be good for epoxy when it's outdoors and hitting rain/snow/mud/hot/cold throughout the years.
I'm curious if the surface you epoxy'd wasn't really that optimal for epoxy. I say that based on my own experience recently, as I thought for sure epoxy would bond to anything, and for the most part it does, but take a look back at the first pictures of the BluRex/wooden block mod I did. I epoxy'd those two things together. After I took it out of the car and didn't use it, I wanted to see if I could somehow separate the two. I figured if anything the epoxy would separate from the wood and the epoxy would have just stayed gripping to wood particles from the block. But it was the opposite - the epoxy let go of the semi rubberized BluRex case, pretty cleanly too. It took a good amount of force, don't get me wrong, but once done it was a pretty clean break. I'm basing this entirely on assumption as I don't know what you were bonding together, but I wanted to throw out those FYI's as part of my epoxy experience.
So, that Aero can widen itself enough for a Nexus 7? I Googled around and I keep seeing screenshots of it with iPhones and Galaxy 3's... not tablets. That's wild if it does. Does your's mount based on suction cup? Or did you do some sort of additional mod?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got the Aero in actually. It doesn't fit the N7 with my Seidio Case installed. So it's a fail on my end. It fits my Sensation fine, but thats a given lol.
As for the surface areas, I think you are correct that maybe the surface I am trying to apoxy to (on the car) does not play well/adhere with the epoxy I put on. No biggie though. I wanted something off the dash anyways. I may just get the exogear/kropsson mounts eventually...
EDIT: semi DIY modding LOL...
Just getting back, regarding the Kropsson Aero. Because of the Seidio case making the N7 bigger than expected to fit in the Kropsson Aero, I decided to cut down the foam pads on the sides. Now the N7 fits! The said arms are maxed out, but I will try it in the car after work. I took pics, but my work computer is borking at the card reader. But I'll try to upload them at home if I have time ( I have a 4 yr old to contend with lol).
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
xxgoosexx said:
I did something similar with my GNex car dock so it wasn't on my window. I placed a adapter plate (see link below) so I could use the suction cup on some interior plastic below my stereo. It holds pretty snug, not sure if it would be enough to support a tablet though.
http://www.amazon.com/AP020-Adapter-Circular-Adhesive-Console/dp/B001DAT0XE/ref=pd_sim_cps_10
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have that same disk that came with my tomtom gps that I never used. But it works! I have it installed and holds the arkon mount fine without issues.
ydoucare said:
I did almost the same thing, except the empty space is above my stereo instead of below. I just drilled some holes in the top of it and fashioned a plastic mount that bolts in and connects to part of an Arkon mount. If I want to remove the mount, I can just unbolt the Arkon part from the part that's bolted to the double din kit and you barely notice the rest of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
JaSauders said:
Nice! Do you have any pictures of the actual mounting point where the bolts are? I'm super curious how you accomplished this. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't, I'll try to grab one and post it here.
Im looking for a holster, i found some but most have a magnetic closure. Im not sure if its ok for our phones so i just wantes your thoughts or experience with it. I use samsung pay every day and i dont want any sensor to be off because of the magnets.
Maybe im a little paranoid over it because it probably takes an extremely powerful magnet to cause any harm but im not willing to test it out lol
None of the magnetic items for the phones will cause any harm to your phone.
You may notice that the stylus doesn't work where the magnet is, but it will work just fine when you move the magnet.
As a Samsung Experience Consultant, I do not recommend anything magnetic, I think they mess with the device internals.
kmarx said:
As a Samsung Experience Consultant, I do not recommend anything magnetic, I think they mess with the device internals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do know many manufacturers use magnets in their devices and accessories, including Samsung and Apple, right? Every Apple smart case / cover utilizes magnets and (as much as I love Android) I can honestly think of no more reliable tablet than the iPad.
kmarx said:
As a Samsung Experience Consultant, I do not recommend anything magnetic, I think they mess with the device internals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You think or you know?
You should only be putting out info if you know. If you don't know, and it is clear you don't, then you should not speak on a subject.
Magnets will in no way harm the phone unless you are using super powerful magnets, what you use to hold the phone to a dock and things like that won't bother it in the least bit.
I do not recommend any of the Samsung Flip Cases to customers because I have seen them cause problems with devices before. I do not recommend magnetic closures because I have seen them cause problems with devices.
flyingwolf said:
You think or you know?
You should only be putting out info if you know. If you don't know, and it is clear you don't, then you should not speak on a subject.
Magnets will in no way harm the phone unless you are using super powerful magnets, what you use to hold the phone to a dock and things like that won't bother it in the least bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
kmarx said:
I do not recommend any of the Samsung Flip Cases to customers because I have seen them cause problems with devices before. I do not recommend magnetic closures because I have seen them cause problems with devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What sort of issues have you seen?
It seems strange that Samsung would release a product that would interfere with one of its flagship products and sell it as an accessory.
Mayonesa said:
Im looking for a holster, i found some but most have a magnetic closure. Im not sure if its ok for our phones so i just wantes your thoughts or experience with it. I use samsung pay every day and i dont want any sensor to be off because of the magnets.
Maybe im a little paranoid over it because it probably takes an extremely powerful magnet to cause any harm but im not willing to test it out lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if this is specifically what you're asking about, but I've been using a Scosche MagicMount (http://amzn.com/B00I608BJ8) for my car dash and love it! I lay the larger metal plate (it comes with two sizes) at the bottom of my case, oriented where the longer sides are parallel to the bottom of the phone (let me know if you need a picture). I don't stick the plate to my phone, but rather set it inside my case. It turns out to be the perfect length and height for the Note 5. Wireless charging and Samsung Pay still work great. I used that picture of the Note 5 where someone made the back of transparent to make sure the wireless charging coil inside the phone does not over lap with the metal plate that comes with the mount.
I bought a nice leatherette case for my Note 5 only to find that the S-Pen does not work on the right hand side where the magnet is. I took it off immediately and went back to my Body Glove case.
flyingwolf said:
You think or you know?
You should only be putting out info if you know. If you don't know, and it is clear you don't, then you should not speak on a subject.
Magnets will in no way harm the phone unless you are using super powerful magnets, what you use to hold the phone to a dock and things like that won't bother it in the least bit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I purchased a wallet case on eBay. I noticed there were areas on the screen that wouldn't work. When I flipped the removable phone case there were 6 magnets...three on each side to hold the phone in the wallet. These magnets are small, but the impact was terrible! I I'm attaching pictures of me using the s pen to find the areas on the screen and the back of the phone case.
charlesrogers74 said:
I purchased a wallet case on eBay. I noticed there were areas on the screen that wouldn't work. When I flipped the removable phone case there were 6 magnets...three on each side to hold the phone in the wallet. These magnets are small, but the impact was terrible! I I'm attaching pictures of me using the s pen to find the areas on the screen and the back of the phone case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
-Sigh-
Like I said. "Magnets will in no way harm the phone"
This isn't harming your phone, it does do as you have seen which is a TEMPORARY issue and has already been discussed, it will cause no permanent harm to the phone.
I don't know about magnetic holsters but magnetic car mounts most definitely YES. I've used many holsters over the years, for all kinds of types of phones. I haven't really thought about it till I saw this post. My buddy has a good magnetic car mount for his s7 edge, but I don't really know anyone at the moment that's using a magnetic holster. Just my opinion though, the last time I used a holster was way back in January and it was actually pretty good. It was a best buy branded platinum, with kickstand holdster and case like a 3 in kind of deal but not magnetic. It fit could on my belt clips for my jeans and suit pants. Good luck
bought the Bracketron brand at best buy, the magnetic part is on the mount, it is a metal plate stick to your phone so no interference from the magnet, not owning a note 5 tho.
I put in some small tin paper cutouts INSIDE my note 5. I took the back cover off, peeled the sticker with the color/logo and spraypainted it a nice black then just glued the tin paper inside of that. Then I took a flat wireless charger and added neodymium magnets to it, modded it to be as small/thin as possible then covered it up with some black thin leather I bought from Michaels. I mounted it up to my car's console and now I just plop the phone onto it and it sticks tight and fast charges, no wires or case. Worked perfectly, but in hot weather the leather would become a bit slippery so it would slip off, but I fixed that with a couple of very small circular double sided gel tape on the bottom just to provide a bit of friction. I've ridden like this for the past 5 or 6 months and it doesn't slip or fall off at all, heavy bumps, hot weather, nothing dislodges it.
The only thing that doesn't work is the spen, and that's only directly over the magnets, but I wouldn't write on it anyway while it was mounted. Otherwise I've had zero difficulties with it. I'll post up pics if anyone is interested, but it's a bit frankenstein looking.
Got my Samsung LED wallet case today. Aside from the fact that this one closes more "securely" (doesn't lift up from the face without gravitational assistance), it's really no different from the Note7 and S7 Edge LED cases that I've previously owned. Very cool, nonetheless.
I forgot to mention that, while I'm not at all surprised that wireless charging works as expected with this case, I was quite pleased to find that there is no need to remove the note from the LED case to use the DeX Dock. It fits and works perfectly.
I wanted to get it but opted for the S-View case. I'm weary of spending the money on it because of the crappy ribbon that failed twice on the S7E last year.
Question on the LED case
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought you might be able to help me. I am about to purchase the Note 8 and I am looking at the LED case as I want to protect the screen of the phone.
In my vehicle I use a phone mount, RAM X-grip to be specific. If I open the case do you think I can continue to use this phone mount or will it distort the case and cause issues?
If it will cause issues can you use a magnetic mount with this case or will it interfere with the operation of the case or phone having a magnet on the rear of the phone?
Thanks for any help you can provide, I am just trying to figure this all out before I get the phone.
1. There is delicate electric ribbon from back to front part of the cover. Putting strain on the opened cover may damage the electronic connection and stop LEDs functioning well
2. I would advice against to connect any magnet to the phone (via case or directly) as it may/will interfere with S-pen/digitizer and wireless charging.
I have LED cover on Note 8 myself (like I did on Note 4) and I change cover to a simple non-flip case in the rare instances I use phone for navigation in rental cars. Other than that my phone is in center console. My only use in my car is through car infotainment system (play music, answer calls, have incoming messages read to me) so no need to present screen in holder (distracting and therefor dangerous anyway)
HuckFinn said:
Sorry to dig up an old thread but I thought you might be able to help me. I am about to purchase the Note 8 and I am looking at the LED case as I want to protect the screen of the phone.
In my vehicle I use a phone mount, RAM X-grip to be specific. If I open the case do you think I can continue to use this phone mount or will it distort the case and cause issues?
If it will cause issues can you use a magnetic mount with this case or will it interfere with the operation of the case or phone having a magnet on the rear of the phone?
Thanks for any help you can provide, I am just trying to figure this all out before I get the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I definitely wouldn't put it in the RAM X-grip with the case folded back because that would not be good on the ribbon as mentioned. I do use mine with a magnet mount in both my vehicles and sometimes for hands free use in the shop and LOVE it. Its so easy to just toss it on there anytime effortlessly with not even really looking. I can never go back.
Magnet will not interfere with the case at all but it will cause a distortion field for the S-pen but all things considered you really shouldn't be using the S-pen while you driving anyways. :good:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
HuckFinn said:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use THIS one in my wifes SUV. Its not as strong as the one in my truck, but where I have it positioned it rests on top of the vent turn wheels and is supported perfectly. I've never had it move while driving. Even if I don't get it centered on the magnet just right its never moved.
THIS is the one I use in my truck and its noticeably stronger than the Spigen in my wifes car. My truck is an F250 with 6" lift offroad kit and giant mudder tires that beat the hell out of you just driving down the road and my phone doesn't budge on this mount *as long as you snap the phone on centered* If you place the phone off centered it will start to tilt a little after you've been driving for a bit. I did take it off road just a little bit and really gave it some good vibrations to see if I could make it fall and I was unable to get it to pop off of there.
---------- Post added at 09:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:29 AM ----------
HuckFinn said:
Can you tell me which magnet mount you have. I purchased one and put the metal strip between the phone and case and the magnet simply is not strong enough to hold the phone securely. My vehicle is a Jeep Wrangler, so the ride is a bit bumpy. The phone would barely stay put sitting in the driveway, so definitely not going to hold up to driving.
I've tried the X-Grip and actually the curved rubber pads on the X-Grip actually press against the hard plastic shell portion around the phone and not really against the soft spine of the case. I'm going to give it a shot and see what happens. If the LEDs fail I will report back to say I should've listened
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use THIS one in my wifes SUV. Its not as strong as the one in my truck, but where I have it positioned it rests on top of the vent turn wheels and is supported perfectly. I've never had it move while driving. Even if I don't get it centered on the magnet just right its never moved.
THIS is the one I use in my truck and its noticeably stronger than the Spigen in my wifes car. My truck is an F250 with 6" lift offroad kit and giant mudder tires that beat the hell out of you just driving down the road and my phone doesn't budge on this mount *as long as you snap the phone on centered* If you place the phone off centered it will start to tilt a little after you've been driving for a bit. I did take it off road just a little bit and really gave it some good vibrations to see if I could make it fall and I was unable to get it to pop off of there.
Any other alternative car mounts for those with official led cover?
Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk