Related
Hi to all!!.
Let's see if someone out there can give me a reason or a solution for my problem.
This weekend I went on a long trip and I found that if I use my TomTom while charging the Kaiser (regular car charger) at some point the PDA stopped charging and showed the "low battery" icon. The only way to get it charging again is doing a soft reset (with the device unplugged) and then plugging it again.
This is quite annoying since it's impossible to do this while driving since I need the GPS to get to my destination (this is the reason to have GPS, right!?)
any solutions??? I would be eternally gratefull if someone gets me out of this!
Thanxs in advance.
What is the current rating of the charger? When I used a cheap charger made for the RAZR I couldn't keep a positive charge when using GPS and sometimes it would stop charging and I'd have to disconnect and re-connect it. Didn't have to reset though. I suggest you get a higher current charger made for the Kaiser.
marc
I had this problem too and I simply changed the charger. Also, make sure that you see the "charging" icon with the electrical cord displayed when the device is connected.
I've had similar problems using several different car chargers.
When looking at the charger specs, I saw they all had a 1000mA current maximum. When I found a HTC charger for the TYTNII I immediately looked at the specs, and behold: 2000mA max. current
With the HTC 2000mA charger I haven't had any problems sofar. A week ago I drove 3000km using my TYTNII with tomtom and Charging/navigating went fine.
Yes... that may be the issue, I'm not using a cheap charger, I'm using the cheapest charger I could find!!!! jajajaja
And in fact it was done for the V3 RAZR... so... I'll try not to be so mean and buy a good one!.
I will tell you if this worked!... Many thanxs!!
I thought this was just happening to me as no-one posted about it 'til now!
Mine is from mobilefun, supposedly fine for a Kaiser, but i guess it's not.
There's no details on the product page about what current it can draw, but at £7 i think i may need a better one.
Can anyone point me to a site that quotes the rated mA for their products?
It's definitely the charger. I got 2 cheap ones from overseas for about $1 and I use it to charge up my psp and kaiser. The home adapter can't charge up the psp but only the phone and the car adapter can charge up both at the same time with no problems. And its using the exact same cable as well. So its definitely the adapter.
I agree 100% - I bought a cheap charger from eBay, but it would not charge the phone when using TomTom - and barely hold the charge when playing MP3s. I replaced witha genuine HTC charger and everything is fine
Your mileage with HTC original chargers may vary
The idea of using an original HTC charger for some reason seems popular here. The original charger that came with my 'sealed box' TyTN II lasted 4 charges (about 2 weeks as I'd charged by USB cable the rest of the time) before it made a loud click and the light extinguished for the last time. When I called HTC to ask whether a different model of replacement could be provided I was told I would only receive another charger of the same model. Not wanting to have the possibility of regular failures (and this thing did look cheap and nasty), I bought a different charger for £8.95 and that ones been going fine since. The one I now have is shiny and black (matching the TyTN II casing perfectly) and it came with a set of different interchangable 'prong adapters' so I can use it in the UK, USA, Europe and Australia
For a multiband top of the range phone like the TyTN II, why didn't the manufacturers supply these in the first place. My rating of the original HTC TyTN II charger that came supplied with my UK sourced device in Sep 2007 is 0 out of 10
I bought a 300W inverter from Maplin for £20 and use the three pin plug charger that I use in the house...
hmmr said:
I've had similar problems using several different car chargers.
When looking at the charger specs, I saw they all had a 1000mA current maximum. When I found a HTC charger for the TYTNII I immediately looked at the specs, and behold: 2000mA max. current
With the HTC 2000mA charger I haven't had any problems sofar. A week ago I drove 3000km using my TYTNII with tomtom and Charging/navigating went fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you let us know where you got this charger? I think I am running 700mA in the car, which is a SLOW charge... Thanks for the help...
I've bought the charger in a local store, but after some googling, i found it HERE
If you click on the picture to enlarge, you can just make out the max current (2A) on the label.
Using HTC part no. 81551 should give you plenty of results
Well mine also just developed this problem. Drove 130 miles in one day a couple of weeks ago (using Tomtom) and my old tytn 1 car charger worked fine. Then a week ago drove 40 miles using same charger and when I got where I as going I found the battery was almost flat and the phone was really hot! So did a search and found this appears to be a common problem with this phone. (Although I can't understand why it worked fine when I did the 130 mile drive!)
Anyway have taken the plunge and bought a genuine HTC car charge. First off, as others have said, I can confirm that it has a 2amp rating (my other one was rated at 1amp). Went out with it for the first time today for a short journey to a shop to test it using Tomtom. After 5 mins it did the same as my old one, the charging light went off and battery stopped charging. However after my shopping (bought something for my kids who have chicken pox currently!) I went for a 15 min drive and it worked ok, actually charging throughout and increased my battery by about 3% (from 74% to 77%).
So the upshot is - I don't know what the heck is going on - could be that my battery or phone got itself into a mess with the first charger and took a while to recognise the new one - or it could be an intermittent problem!
What I do know is that I am shortly doing a 1000mile round trip and I need it to be reliable - so will do more testing over the next few weeks and let you all know how it goes. Its still under guarantee so any more nonsense and it will go back.
In the meantime if anyone has any further info on this please post.
Cheers
Barney
Barneyabz said:
Well mine also just developed this problem. Drove 130 miles in one day a couple of weeks ago (using Tomtom) and my old tytn 1 car charger worked fine. Then a week ago drove 40 miles using same charger and when I got where I as going I found the battery was almost flat and the phone was really hot! So did a search and found this appears to be a common problem with this phone. (Although I can't understand why it worked fine when I did the 130 mile drive!)
Anyway have taken the plunge and bought a genuine HTC car charge. First off, as others have said, I can confirm that it has a 2amp rating (my other one was rated at 1amp). Went out with it for the first time today for a short journey to a shop to test it using Tomtom. After 5 mins it did the same as my old one, the charging light went off and battery stopped charging. However after my shopping (bought something for my kids who have chicken pox currently!) I went for a 15 min drive and it worked ok, actually charging throughout and increased my battery by about 3% (from 74% to 77%).
So the upshot is - I don't know what the heck is going on - could be that my battery or phone got itself into a mess with the first charger and took a while to recognise the new one - or it could be an intermittent problem!
What I do know is that I am shortly doing a 1000mile round trip and I need it to be reliable - so will do more testing over the next few weeks and let you all know how it goes. Its still under guarantee so any more nonsense and it will go back.
In the meantime if anyone has any further info on this please post.
Cheers
Barney
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too have had similar problems. Bought a quality Brodit (Active) car holder with charger and it seems to charge for only about 30s-1min. The orange charge light only stays on for a short while and then then battery runs down!
Interestingly the charge indicator on the screen always shows that the device is being charged whilst connected in the car - even though the orange charge light has gone out. I've posted this in the general area for kaiser and also in the ROM area applicable (Dutty's WM6.1 Hybrid v2 5.2.19716/5.2.19700) in case it may be ROM specific.
Another person reports no issue with the same charger as mine and the same ROM - it's all very annoying because there would seem to be too many complaining about such issues. The output amperage may be the issue but surely the Brodit (which is good quality) charger should be fine?
I will post whan I get this issue solved but I wonder if there is something in the Registry that can cause such issues too - I agree the output limitations are also of relevance (I just cannot believe that this is my issue).
Well I have been using the official HTC charger for a month now without any problems, only thing I would say is that my journeys have all been short (under an hour at most). however using my old charger it would die after a much shorter period so problem does seem to be resolved.
cheers
Barney
Temperature
Hi.
I had the same problem, with a different GPS software. Check the temperature of your device ( you can use a software called " Battery Status ". In my kaiser it never showed me a bubble ( like some other ROM ) that it reached 47C and then the phone automatically stops the charge.
The heat is from actual charging + the sun. I have a window mount and the phone was on it when I was charging. Take all into account and you will see that it will over heat quite fast.
I solved the problem by putting the phone in a shaded place when charging it. It also helped if its next to the vent, but don't cool it to much, because if you do then when you use the AC and you go out, some of the connectors of the phone will get corrosion on them ( SIM, USB, SD etc.) .
Good luck.
There are 2 reasons: The first just got mentioned, overheating by the combined effect of the device heating up itself and other factors like the sun. If the battery heats up too much, the safety system will stop charge, and the battery will then be drained until empty. No soft reset needed, but the device has to be cooled to the appropriate temp and the charger disconnected/reconnected. I was also having that issue when using my older Hermes with 3G sharing over wifi and downloading hard, even with the battery cover removed and the keyboard open the device was heating so much on itself it would cause that. The Kaiser seems to heat less when doing the same BTW.
The second is that when using a common charger (not HTC branded), even if it is rated at 2 amps the phone won't be drawing those 2 amps from it but will limit itself to about 500mA.
The reason is simply that it's being charged from a USB port, and a USB device is not allowed to draw more than 500mA from a USB port. HTC chargers have a chip inside and tell the phone that they are official chargers from which the phone may draw more. Without that identification the phone stays in low current mode.
On the Hermes it was even simpler, if you connected a generic charger it would not charge at all. It would only accept charging from an active USB port it was able to have a communication with, or the original charger.
So, use original HTC chargers when current draw is high. The Kaiser with GPS, full backlight and a GPS program running will draw something pretty close to the 500mA.
I used to be cheap on charger too until I used the battery sucker Dell Axim x51v (612mzh, VGA, BT) on my car. The I brought the 2A ecovell usb charger and my problem solve.
tony.wheeler said:
I too have had similar problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you seen this thread yet? http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=343951
Looks like that may be your issue. Saw a chap in the phone shop (in High Wycombe) the other day with a TyTN II with faulty USB port. Must be a common thing around the area but as I don't have a car to put a car charger into, it won't affect me!
Original charger
I had the same charging issue and solved it with an original htc charger, cheapest i could find was on Amazon for £12 delivered:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Original-HT...1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1214645330&sr=1-1
So, I bought one of those $4 charging cables from Deal Extreme. Not bad, actually. A couple of initial thoughts:
#1) Shipping: 3 weeks from order to delivery. This is not some next day, in-house job. This is coming from Hong-Kong or some area in China and it will take the full 3 weeks from the time you order to it arrives at your door.
#2) It works. Charges just fine, plugs into the existing wall adapter. No worries.
#3) It crashed my PC. I don't know if it was the pulling of it out or the putting of it in, but my PC crashed, and my PC never crashes.
#4) It does not have the top labeled like the stock one does. No little white arrow / triangle.
#5) Fits just like stock. Once you get the orientation correct (little black tabs guide you), it fits in solidly with no worries.
For four dollars, I am extremely pleased. I'll use it with the wall socket, and I'll use my stock one for delicate operations like PC-to-Phone transfers.
Thank's for the review... I was wondering when mine would get here, it had been about a week and a half already.
[[ UPDATE ]]
My charging cable has stopped working. I think.
I let the battery completely drain, and then I tried using the Deal Extreme cable plugged into the wall. The phone threw up an icon for bad connection to cable. I unplugged and replugged several times. Eventually I left it all night. It did NOT charge.
I don't know if it just can't do it when it was completely dead battery, or if the cable itself just is broken or if it is just poor quality. I will keep experimenting.
i have had the same problems with 6ft cables from yourcharger on ebay, none work with my pc to sync and when charging one killed my battery like it was wired wrong and the phone started freaking out and the home screen froze and i had to remove the battery, and the other it doesnt even show i have a cable connected to the phone
I've experienced bad battery/charger error with $4 dealextreme cable.
The cause is extremely thin conductors inside the cable.
The solution is simple. You have to make it shoter. Just cut 55cm off, and connect the rest.
As a result - 20cm cable, which can be made longer with any quality usb extender.
I recently purchased the car charger that came with a usb/charger for $6.50 the build quality for the car lighter charger is pretty outstanding it even has all the safety and mfg. Stamps on it. The usb charger on the other hand is quite shabby and it took me a few tries to get the pin to go in correctly. Also didn't have an arrow to differentiate which side was which so I had to take a bright marker n mark it. All in all for the price and the usual long delivery time it was well worth the 7$ now I don't have to log around my stock usb cord everywhere
Sent from my Dell Streak using Tapatalk
Hey all, I know this is a development area - but there is no General section for the G9... anyway...
I have an 80 Gen 9 original none hard drive none turbo which im installing in my car. So far it looks really really good - ill post a video when i finally get the facia on it. However I am struggling to keep up with the charge power wise.
I originally brought a tomtom microusb charger - which according to form puts out 1 amp (not enough). This works fine on my HTC evo 3d, but cant keep up with the power consumption of the 80. It does not show as a "slow" charger.
I then brought an adapter off ebay that has a 2.1a and a 1a port. These originally showed as slow, so I made an adapter cable shorting the data pins so it knows its a charger - but neither port can keep the thing powered, and both these and the tomtom 1 amp seem to discharge at the same speed while plugged in.
Im waiting on one from newmp3technology that is stated as a fast charger for the archos g9...
Now, on the device i have turned off bluetooth and wifi turned off, backlight always on at around 1/2 brightness, and i have it running an external laptop hard drive off the port on the back. GPS gets turned on when necassary - but doesnt really seem to negatively affect the power situation (which was kinda surpising). Ive set the maximum CPU usage at just 600mhz to try and kerb the power consumption also. While driving i have Poweramp continually playing, and have used copilot on and off for sat nav. It doesnt drop fast - but nor is it staying fully charged. Im sure I had no problems with this while on AC power in the house.
If anyone knows of a working fast charger, or has a suggestion I would be most greatful. I may between now and then test with an invertor and ac power supply. One other idea I have is to run the USB hard drive with a powered USB hub, to move the power consumption away from the device.
I believe there was one of those dual-usb chargers from Belkin, but knowing them the charger could be pretty expensive.
It also has one 2 amp and one 1 amp slot, though I have not tried it yet.
i have this
http://www.newmp3technology.com/francais/all-Archos-model-charger.htm
This is an other option www.newmp3technology.com/francais/archos-101-80-g9-cigar-split.htm
I also need to be able to run/ charge my 80G9 turbo on the road for long periods.
first the basics, the original Archos cable must be used to get max charge (its short and has the log like thing inline near tablet) every other cable/ wall charger I have tried will only give weak charge and if using tablet with other cable it may never charge at all *if you know this great, but everyday others have to find this out the slow or no charge way
now, that applies to the wall plug for sure but with a cigarette lighter usb adapter I'm not so sure you will get enough juice just with that cable. If there is a 12V adapter or complete plug and usb cord that gives full needed output, great. until its used and proven (real world) I don't know if it exist yet.
the best alternative may be to use a Power Inverter like one below, there are so many available I don't know if the ones with usb outlets would work, I have a cheap inverter I need to try but just with factory Archos wall plug & cable (I've used it in the past to power a hand grinder etc. with no problem, car battery stayed charged up even when vehicle was off)
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-2003-6-...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329710122&sr=1-17
I use the original Wall-Charger that came with the Tablet in conjunction with an HTC USB Cable that came with my HTC Desire.
It's charging as fast as with the original Archos USB Cable.
Even the small Wall-Charger from the Desire charges the Tablet very fast.
OK Ive received the so called fast charger from newmp3technology and it registers as a slow charger using the original supplied cable from archos. It took 17 days to arrive... not particularly happy with newmp3technology.
Anyway, I have found that the tomtom charger does actually charge the system while it is active - even though its only a 1 amp charger and the system requires 1.5 amp. Over about a week of driving for approx 1.5 - 2 hours a day the charge has risen from 0% to 19%. I had a USB extension (no more than 1 meter long) in line with the charger and that actually slowed the rate of charge.
The system is active the whole time - usually playing music through power amp, and sometimes using GPS via copilot. Ill test again to see that it can still maintain charge with GPS running. These devices really only require a small amount of power - I used to run a full computer in car and that pulled a bunch of power.
Here's the general section
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1511
No Probs - unfortunately that section did not exist when i created this thread...
Hello,
I share in this thread, my experience of mounting a 2012 Nexus 7 in my 2008 Toyota avensis.
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The biggest problem was about :
- Power : a Nexus 7 tablet will not boot, or behave strangely if battery is over discharged. This is a real problem because you have to take care of battery deep-sleep when not in car, remove battery heater apps that will prevent to sleep (frequent with GPS apps). To resume, having a battery in the Nexus 7 in car install raise a lot of complication.
- Risk and security to have an Li-ion battery in the top of my dashboard (danger with high temp and direct sun exposition) : Even in north of France, direct sunlight can raise very very high temperature at the top of the dash. So i was very worried to have a lithium battery. For my safety. I was afraid to find my car burned. It can arrive. I think it's really not a good thing when i see other in-dash mount that keep battery inside the nexus.
So, i decided to remove completely the Li-Ion Battery, and power the tablet directly from a 12V->3.7V DC converter, connected to my cigarette lighter.
Everythink work perfectly now. The only two small side-effect are :
- Car ignition will shut off power 2 ou 3 second, and tablet will reboot.
- 40 seconds boot time. It could be long, but i am rarely in my car for less than 2 minutes. So it's really not a problem. My Tom Tom GPS sometime take 30 seconds to be ok.
Total cost for this project are
- 15 dollar for 12V->3.7V converter on ebay
- 130 dollar for a 16G Nexus 7 on ebay
- 120 dollar for a genuine toyota navigation dash mount extracted from an broken avensis that had toyota GPS.
- Some dollar for adhesive, cigarette lighter plug, etc...
Here is some photo. I will add photo from inside if someone is interested (maybe not for a Toyota).
The main interest is to share for my Power problems
(sorry for my french-english)
My avensis before nexus 7 install
ebay - 12V to 3.7V DC Converter
ebay - Genuine Toyota GPS dash part
Final mount
Battery Wires
Which battery wires did you connect the DC-DC converter to? I see the connector has 2 red and 2 black wires.
Thanks
That is amazing. It turned out very professional looking and clean. May I ask how long it took you to get everything just right? i.e. months, weeks, ect. Very very impressive work.
this is really cool
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
edwin108 said:
Which battery wires did you connect the DC-DC converter to? I see the connector has 2 red and 2 black wires.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the Nexus 7 :
- I cut the small battery connector keeping the longest cable possible (so i have say bye bye to the battery !)
- I have connected
> the 2 red cable of the nexus 7 connector to the red DC-DC output
> the 2 black cable of the nexus 7 connector the the yellow DC-DC output
> I cut the yellow and white (the 2 remaining) cables of the nexus 7 connector. Those 2 cable role is to let the nexus 7 know about the temperature and battery status. Not anymore useful as no more battery.
---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 PM ----------
nicholi2789 said:
That is amazing. It turned out very professional looking and clean. May I ask how long it took you to get everything just right? i.e. months, weeks, ect. Very very impressive work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. After 3 month, everything work perfectly. It took me about 1 month before i was able to find the best balance.
I unmount Toyota dashboard about 4 times (bad wire, with battery / without battery, etc...)
I really stressed the Nexus 7 and i can say it's really robust !
I am not worried anymore of battery explosion. I wait 45 seconds before tablet is ready to work.
Nice install! I'm going this route with mine.
Are you using Timur's Rom/Kernel?
How did you set it up to power on with the car without having access to the power button on the N7?
Thanks!
I wonder if I can do something like that on my car... And how to make it pleasing.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
looks great very well done
@iiolivier Wow man - that's awesome. I have toyota avensis 2003 with GPS included. And I already have Nexus 7 2012.
I will definitely try this.
Can you provide any link for this dc adapter, please? I'm not well-known with electric, wires and etc. (maybe PM to me will be great). Thanks in advance!!!
Cheers from Bulgaria!
iiolivier said:
B]Risk and security to have an Li-ion battery in the top of my dashboard[/B] (danger with high temp and direct sun exposition) : Even in north of France, direct sunlight can raise very very high temperature at the top of the dash. So i was very worried to have a lithium battery. For my safety. I was afraid to find my car burned. It can arrive. I think it's really not a good thing when i see other in-dash mount that keep battery inside the nexus.
So, i decided to remove completely the Li-Ion Battery, and power the tablet directly from a 12V->3.7V DC converter, connected to my cigarette lighter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had my Nexus 7 installed in my truck last year, but am concerned because I live in Arizona and it's starting to get hot. So there are no issues removingthe bbattery and running the Nexus 7 directly off power? What if I'm currently plugged in from microusb port of tablet to a cigarette lighter charger? this is all hidden behind the dash. Will it still receive power this way?
Bawb3 said:
Nice install! I'm going this route with mine.
Are you using Timur's Rom/Kernel?
How did you set it up to power on with the car without having access to the power button on the N7?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to find it as I did this mod last year and didn't save the url. There is a bootloader adb mod where you can set the Nexus 7 to boot by itself when it receives AC power. I have it set up to boot when key turns ignition and power off after 1 minute without power, using Tasker.
Edit, here's the adb command to have the tablet power on when it receives AC power
there is a Fastboot command that you can issue to the bootloader to make the tablet power on once plugged it.* “fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0” makes the unit power on the instant its connected to AC. “fastboot oem off-mode-charge 1” returns to normal state,* so fitting an external switch isn’t 100% necessary, but i decided i wanted one anyway. I’m using Tasker to switch the unit on and off* with the ignition, but having the external switch is a handy addition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you could connect your 3.7v adapter to a constant 12v line and then connect your usb OTG power adapter to a switched 12v line. Then use tasker to detect when the 12v switched goes dead and 'hibernate' the tablet. Then the tablet would run in low power mode off of the car battery untill you turn the car back on. No waiting for the tablet to boot that way and you would keep your time/date.
Great idea about the 3.7v adapter though. I'm stealing that one so I don't need a LiIon battery in the tablet at all.
-J
miatawnt2b said:
you could connect your 3.7v adapter to a constant 12v line and then connect your usb OTG power adapter to a switched 12v line. Then use tasker to detect when the 12v switched goes dead and 'hibernate' the tablet. Then the tablet would run in low power mode off of the car battery untill you turn the car back on. No waiting for the tablet to boot that way and you would keep your time/date.
Great idea about the 3.7v adapter though. I'm stealing that one so I don't need a LiIon battery in the tablet at all.
-J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Were you replyingto me? II'm not well versed in electrical tinkering. What would I have to do to take the battery out of my tablet, if you don't mind explaining. Currently the tablet is receiving power through a cigarette lighter adapter hard wired behind the dash. When it receives power it boots the tablet, when power is off Tasker shuts down the tablet after 1 min. I'd like to take the battery out because of extreme temperatures here.
Can you tell me how did you install the nexus 7 inside the toyota navigation dash mount ? It's not to biger ? Do you have any pictures from inside the unit with the system mounted where I cand see how you mounted (fixed) the tablet inside? I wont to do the same thing, but my problem is that Nexus 7 (2012) has this dimensions: 198.5 x 120 and do not fit inside. The inside dimensions are maximum 180 x 110. Please help with some pictures. Thanks.
movy said:
Can you tell me how did you install the nexus 7 inside the toyota navigation dash mount ? It's not to biger ? Do you have any pictures from inside the unit with the system mounted where I cand see how you mounted (fixed) the tablet inside? I wont to do the same thing, but my problem is that Nexus 7 (2012) has this dimensions: 198.5 x 120 and do not fit inside. The inside dimensions are maximum 180 x 110. Please help with some pictures. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in the process of upgrading from the 2012 N7 (which I just sold) to the 2013. I wanted to fill in the gaps on either side of the tablet in the dash because it was bothering me. Here's what I did.
I dremeled the sides of my dash and a bit behind it to accommodate the tablet. You may need to do a little dremeling/sanding to accommodate yours. I then built a 3 sided wooden box that serves as a double DIN dummy to mount the N7 too. The dimensions are:
Front face: 7"
Sides: 5 1/2"
Top and bottom: 5 1/2"
As you can see in the pictures, I cut out a portion of the sides and bottom so it could wrap around the single DIN radio that's behind the N7 in the dash. The box wouldn't have fit for me otherwise, but for you, at least leave the back open so you can put cables and stuff inside.
I left the side mounts that the old radio bolted to in the truck, so basically the box slides in and is held in place just by the pressure from the sides of the mounts and the front when the dash is put back on.
On the wooden box I put two strips of double sided sticky tape. I chose the heavy duty 5lbs, but it's a little more than what's needed and makes adjusting a pain. Just use the cheaper 2 lb strength tape.
On the front of the box, attached to the sticky tape, I mounted a hard plastic snap on case/shell for the tablet (only thing not pictured). The tablet snaps into the case and is subsequently held on the box. You can just take the tablet out of the case if you need to remove it. That way, you're not affixing the actual tablet to the box.
Finally, I had spaces on either side of the tablet (the dash was a bit wider than the tablet itself). I lived with it for a year, but it was ugly and I finally decided to do something about it. I bought standard double DIN trim for a radio, dremeled, sanded, and cut it so it fits, and taped it to the sides of the tablet (pictured). Now, there won't be any spaces, and it looks like it's actually a factory install.
Hope this helps.
I want to know how he mount Nexus 7 in Avensis T25 dash navigation. This is a picture of 2 way to install: the whole tablet (in first case) or only the lcd touch screen in original frame of navigation. For example this is how it fit a GPS Lexand (Russian) inside the unit. The dimensions of the gps-tablet in this case are max 180*110 mm to fit in. And olso, the dimension of lcd (of image) are max 155*90 mm to fit in (la lcd of 7") . This is my problem in finding a tablet with this exterior size and with this lcd size.
Hy guys,
today I also tried to remove my Nexus battery to power it directly. Sadly it isn't working!
The screen is flickering one time, after I hit the power button. Does someone know what could be the issue?
Mugga said:
Hy guys,
today I also tried to remove my Nexus battery to power it directly. Sadly it isn't working!
The screen is flickering one time, after I hit the power button. Does someone know what could be the issue?
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can you take a pic of how you hooked it up?
50,000 foot howto:
You will need a 12v to 3.7v converter. take the + and - 3.7v wires and attach them to the red/black wires of the battery plug. If you don't want to cut the plug off the battery you can solder directly to the board where the connector is attached. There are an additional two wires off of the battery plug I believe they are white/yellow. I think these are temp sensors. You should be able to leave them unattached, but I haven't played with it yet. You may need to bridge them with a small resistor.
-J
miatawnt2b said:
can you take a pic of how you hooked it up?
50,000 foot howto:
You will need a 12v to 3.7v converter. take the + and - 3.7v wires and attach them to the red/black wires of the battery plug. If you don't want to cut the plug off the battery you can solder directly to the board where the connector is attached. There are an additional two wires off of the battery plug I believe they are white/yellow. I think these are temp sensors. You should be able to leave them unattached, but I haven't played with it yet. You may need to bridge them with a small resistor.
-J
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Click to collapse
Haven't got any pics, but i hooked them up directly without the battery. The two red lines with the plus line, and the black ones with ground.
I tried it with my car dc-dc converter. I can program the voltage down to 4,2V. I also measured the voltage directly at the nexus pcb, and it says 4,15-4,2V. I tried it with different voltage levels, up to 5v. When the voltage is too low, I just get one flickering. With a little bit more, I get something like a grey screen. And with round about 5v, I get the Nexus startup screen for about 2 seconds, and then the screen is going black, but the backlight is still turned on.
When I attach the battery like before without any external power, everything is running smooth. I don't really see what could be the problem. The dc-dc converter is able to provide 10A.
EDIT:
Nevermind got it working!
The problem was that the wires for the testing at home where to thin, to provide enough juice (Ampere). After going with two cables for each line, the tablet was booting fine. Any way thx for the help.
iiolivier said:
- Car ignition will shut off power 2 ou 3 second, and tablet will reboot.
- 40 seconds boot time. It could be long, but i am rarely in my car for less than 2 minutes. So it's really not a problem. My Tom Tom GPS sometime take 30 seconds to be ok.
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Hi. Great post, thank you! I plan to do the same but had a few questions:
1. How is it faring over long term use? I imagine the 12V from a car battery is pretty 'noisy' so my concern is with device longevity.
2. Does the N7 2013 model work with 3.7V as well, or does it need a different voltage?
3. Are you able to hook up USB devices using an OTG cable without the battery?
My ideal solution would be to hook the N7 battery connectors to an 'always on' power line and the micro-USB connectors to a switched power line. This way I can use Tasker to hibernate/shut-down the N7 when the car is turned off. A trickle charge after hibernation/shutdown probably won't drain out my car battery too soon. I'm not so much concerned about start-up time (though a quicker startup through hibernation would be a bonus), but rather the concern that repeatedly shutting off power to the tablet abruptly (without giving it a chance to shutdown) probably wouldn't be good for it.
Obviously the assumption here is that the N7 uses voltage detection at the micro-usb connection to determine if power is incoming to the battery. I'll need to test this out. But I want to know if OTG even works (I need it for backup cam) before I tear down my N7 and start poking around with a multimeter.
question
Hi guys. After few long weeks I finally managed to put my nexus 7 in.
Everything works pretty much ok but I was a bit worried about the battery so I bought a power supply buck module, which proved to be a beast . Provides my continuous 3.7V, having the battery removed without any problem AT ALL.
I would like to know if someone tried something similar because I am a bit concerned about the power consumption. Is it ok to leave it on all the time, or not ? Please advice.
Hi, I would like to ask if there is anyone of you happen to be via a docking station charge the phone for a long time ? Yesterday I played Real Racing 3 which understandably draining battery as hell , so I put the phone in the dock station and keep playing RR3 but battery had been keep drained so I turned off the game and tried simply just looking over the net with the phone still embedded in the dock but situation has been the same percentages keep going down . So I turned off the display and let it charge if it stabilizes . I've found that one percent will be charged in 5 minutes which means over eight hours to full charge . I've tried to force kill Smart Connect (I've read that might be solution for this unusual draining) but nothing hapens...even about 2 times that process Smart Connect itself again launched and let notification popped. Otherwise I've tried to kill all applications to sure that no application is taking battery time. My charging set is :
1x Dock M36H
1x USB charger original manufacturer
1 MicroUSB cable length 2m (buying longer because of log distance of the socket)
My observation is that it could cause just that long cable because when I charge the phone with shorter on one side connected to the dock and on the other side to the PC and it worked flawlessly , and the phone has been around for 3h charged . Do you have some experience with it ? Or cable length does not affect the charge? Thank you for your insights
not only the length, the built quality is important too (armoring and connectors). the more tick it will be the better results you'll have (transfer speed and charging efficiency). for the dock I advise a cable of 1 meter only if it's cheap.
Made in ZR
To further test and see if your extension cable is faulty:
connect the extension cable directly to the phone itself, not the dock and see how fast it charges compare to the stock. You can also download the app called better battery status as it shows the actual charging current. by comparing using just stock cable vs added extension, it should give you a better idea.