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Hi,
I just stuck here, cause I found a thread about fast usb charging. But there is no answers or solutions.
I have many htc devices. It seems that some of them has a problem with 3rd party usb chargers.
My most used device is Universal. It suck a lot of power. THis one doesn't enable usb charging at all, until you put it in sleep mode before pluging the charger.
Anyway, the same issue for Kaiser too.
The problem is, that it doesn't matter how much current is the charger able to deliver. They just use some kind of recognition of original chargers.
What I already measured: Original charger and universal running => takes 1200mA. 3rd party charger or my 5A PSU => Universal/Kaiser sucks just 500mA.
This is fast/slow charge. I found here discussion about 4 and 5 pins shorted??
But WTF which 4 & 5 pin?
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
According to this pinout. It would be 2 GND of Audio side? I'm not sure that original charger use extUSB audio side to charge...? It also could be D & A pins, but I'm afraid to connect 5V to Data- pin.
Anyway, someone here have to know it.
If not, in a few days I'll try all possible combinations and post the results.
Thanks
Shef
I'd also be interested to know about this. When I charge my TYTN II via USB, it takes much longer to charge than if I charge it via the mains charger (I prefer USB since I travel a lot and it's one less charger I need to carry around).
Better still, is it possible to buy a USB cable that will charge at the same rate as the mains charger rather than messing with a USB cable with the associated risks?
Best,
Gary.
Shef said:
Hi,
What I already measured: Original charger and universal running => takes 1200mA. 3rd party charger or my 5A PSU => Universal/Kaiser sucks just 500mA.
This is fast/slow charge. I found here discussion about 4 and 5 pins shorted??
But WTF which 4 & 5 pin?
http://www.tracyandmatt.co.uk/blogs/index.php/2006/09/10/htc_hermes_usb_connector_pin_config
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
a usb port only supplies 500ma, while the wall charger does 1200ma as the OP has measured (although it says 1A at the back of the charger). changing a cable is not gonna superpower up your usb port.
unless maybe you get hold of a forked USB cable, like the one that Seagate Free Agent drives come supplied with... you know, 1 mini USB splitting halfway down to two normal USB plugs.
Worth experimenting with, do you think?
wyrm said:
unless maybe you get hold of a forked USB cable, like the one that Seagate Free Agent drives come supplied with... you know, 1 mini USB splitting halfway down to two normal USB plugs.
Worth experimenting with, do you think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good call.......with a little googling i came up with this
http://www.universaluk.com/acatalog...2_x_Type_A_to_mini_B__USB_2_0__1m__Lindy.html
tried ebay, my brief search came up with lots of unrelated results, so i gave up
I got one of those leads, came with my portable 2.5" hard drive. Just tried the lead on my Tytn 2 and it does charge almost as fast as the mains plug
Success
Ok, so, I tried to experiment.
Here you go.
Usb simple cable 480ma charge.
The same result with Motorola charger.
Motorola charger pins A and B short circuit - 890mA.
That's much better, althrough I suppose it can suck more current then 890mA, but it's significantly better.
THere is also pins data+ and data- short circuited (I don't know if it has effect, but I can't disconnect it in this connector).
Apparently NC (not connected) pin on our pinout schematics definitely is connected.
With % of charged battery it suck less and less current....I suppose it's usual, this should be even driven by ROM.
So, update your cables
It works even with car charger, so no more charger problems...
Shef
Just to be clear - you took a Motorola USB cable and shorted pins A and B (which are which by the way?) and it provides a decent current....
How do you short the pins? I've looked in the end of cable and I can hardly see the pins, let alone short them! What's the trick here or have I missed something?
Thanks,
Gary.
Shef said:
Ok, so, I tried to experiment.
Here you go.
Usb simple cable 480ma charge.
The same result with Motorola charger.
Motorola charger pins A and B short circuit - 890mA.
That's much better, althrough I suppose it can suck more current then 890mA, but it's significantly better.
THere is also pins data+ and data- short circuited (I don't know if it has effect, but I can't disconnect it in this connector).
Apparently NC (not connected) pin on our pinout schematics definitely is connected.
With % of charged battery it suck less and less current....I suppose it's usual, this should be even driven by ROM.
So, update your cables
It works even with car charger, so no more charger problems...
Shef
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also interested in how to short the pins. I use Navizon, bluetooth HSDPA tethering, and iGuidance while on the ambulance and even my iGo 3A max rated charger can barely keep up because the tilt wont accept all of the available current.
So have anyone found a way to fast charge our ppc through usb??
Yes, that is correct. Short pins 4 & 5 (4 is normally NC) to enable fast-charging. If you do it correctly, the phone shouldn't pick up tethering, and therefore should not say "PC Connected" or the like..
The TracyAndMatt pinout is wrongly numbered. The pin assignments are correct, but the number/letter scheme they used is incorrect. True ExtUSB pinout translation to their pinout is as follows:
T & M Real ExtUSB
-------------------------------
Pins E D C B A = 1 2 3 4 5
Pins 1 2 3 4 5 6 = 6 7 8 9 10 11
The way I remember is that the corner opposite the angled one is where pin 1 starts (where E is on the T&M pinout) - and they go like most IEC-standard connectors, in a clock-like circular numbering scheme.
Here's a better pinout: http://pinouts.ru/PDA/htc_extUSB_pinout.shtml
Hope this helps!
--W5i2
its the milliamps that is the problem even doubling up with a y splitter does not do much Find a charger with the most milliamps for a faster charge 1.2 amps works best and as far as i know no usb port puts out that much even if they are wired in a series. Many try to sell lower amp chargers they dont even know about it at att. if the screen is off they will charge but not well these phones are energy hogs. I must have at least twenty chargers and messed around with them... the original or one of highest amperage works for me.
Check winhlp.com/node/855 for the answer.
htc_battery_trout.c said:
/* A9 reports USB charging when helf AC cable in and China AC charger. */
/* Work arround: notify userspace AC charging first,
and notify USB charging again when receiving usb connected notificaiton from usb driver. *
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find this annoying. I can't tell if my wall charger is fast charging or not because the G1 always says "AC"
hgmichna said:
Check winhlp.com/node/855 for the answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is not going to help HTC owners.
HTC charging cable
kiss_se said:
That is not going to help HTC owners.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://winhlp.com/node/855 was explicitly written for HTC smartphone owners.
hgmichna said:
[...] was explicitly written for HTC smartphone owners.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, I meant to say: That is not going to help extusb owners.
hgmichna said:
Check winhlp.com/node/855 for the answer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it possible to get one of the 'fast charge' enabled USB cables on eBay or elsewhere? I am not keen on doing the mod described.
What is the maximum mAh recommended for HTC devices? Is it still 1.2 A or more?
zurpher said:
Is it possible to get one of the 'fast charge' enabled USB cables on eBay or elsewhere? I am not keen on doing the mod described.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855#qaes for the only buyable solution I know, besides compatible chargers. Your best bet is probably the original HTC charger, available for roughly $10.
zurpher said:
What is the maximum mAh recommended for HTC devices? Is it still 1.2 A or more?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There can be no recommended maximum mAh. There can only be a required current, which differs from device to device. Check Ohm's Law. The device determines how much current it draws. If the charger cannot deliver that current, then the charging process can fail in various ways, all undesirable.
hgmichna said:
Check http://winhlp.com/node/855#qaes for the only buyable solution I know, besides compatible chargers. Your best bet is probably the original HTC charger, available for roughly $10.
There can be no recommended maximum mAh. There can only be a required current, which differs from device to device. Check Ohm's Law. The device determines how much current it draws. If the charger cannot deliver that current, then the charging process can fail in various ways, all undesirable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could the USB Switching 2A Power Charger Adapter Convertor Plug be similar in function to the one that you've linked?
zurpher said:
Could the USB Switching 2A Power Charger Adapter Convertor Plug be similar in function to the one that you've linked?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know, but probably not. Apple used to use a different signalling scheme involving resistors.
Hi,
I purchased an official Samsung "Travel" charger from my Tab. I expected to receive a mains adaptor with interchangeable plugs (e.g. Euro, GB, US etc), and another USB cable.
However, when I opened it up, I had a mains adaptor, a GB plug, and a USB cable.
According to all the packaging, this is correct - however, as far as I'm concerned this isn't a "Travel" charger - it's just a spare charger.
I'm ok with it as I've plenty of GB-to-EU and GB-to-UK adaptors, but I thought it worthwhile posting a warning that this isn't really what it is advertised to be.
Regards,
Dave
foxmeister said:
I purchased an official Samsung "Travel" charger from my Tab. I expected to receive a mains adaptor with interchangeable plugs (e.g. Euro, GB, US etc), and another USB cable.
However, when I opened it up, I had a mains adaptor, a GB plug, and a USB cable.
According to all the packaging, this is correct - however, as far as I'm concerned this isn't a "Travel" charger - it's just a spare charger.
I'm ok with it as I've plenty of GB-to-EU and GB-to-UK adaptors, but I thought it worthwhile posting a warning that this isn't really what it is advertised to be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Pretty much all of the "compact" AC adaptors get referred to as "travel" chargers, it's nothing new, Nokia have been doing it for years, and theirs don't even have interchangeable plugs on them. Not that you can buy the plug part of them separately anyway so I'm not sure why they make them removable other than for their own benefit.
It basically means that it will work across voltage differences without blowing up
So far, the best thing I found is this:
4 port USB AC adapter
It has all standard electric adapters, is very compact, has 4 USB slots (so you can use it for other stuff too) and the price is great.
Also, I checked with the seller - it will charge the Tab normally, but in that case you can't use other USB slots. The charger gives 5V 2A, shared among the 4 ports. If you use just one slot, that one gets all the juice. If you plug in 2 devices, the power is split among them etc.
geoffcollins said:
It basically means that it will work across voltage differences without blowing up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So does the standard charger, because it is identical!
Regards,
Dave
foxmeister said:
Hi,
I purchased an official Samsung "Travel" charger from my Tab. I expected to receive a mains adaptor with interchangeable plugs (e.g. Euro, GB, US etc), and another USB cable.
However, when I opened it up, I had a mains adaptor, a GB plug, and a USB cable.
According to all the packaging, this is correct - however, as far as I'm concerned this isn't a "Travel" charger - it's just a spare charger.
I'm ok with it as I've plenty of GB-to-EU and GB-to-UK adaptors, but I thought it worthwhile posting a warning that this isn't really what it is advertised to be.
Regards,
Dave
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a link Dave, I'm looking to purchase a USB Mains plug with a USB to 30 pin cable for the Tab.
I was really disappointed by this too.
However, the section of the adapter with the UK pins should slide off (slide it up). Then you can plug a standard 2 pin AC cable into the adapter - like those which come with printers. The pins adapters are supposedly available to make these a true travel adapter but I have yet to find them anywhere.
Background: (feel free to skip this)
In my search to get a good car charger for my Nexus 10 (that would also be good on my Galaxy Nexus), I checked out a bunch of sites and manufacturers and reviews for the perfect charger. I also wanted it to be dual port for two phones at the same time in case my girlfriend is in the car.
So many 2A chargers are not actually 2A, they may be 1A to each port max or they may only work as 2A on an iPad. Android devices look for shorted out data connections in order to pull more than USB power (500ma). So a charger has to both offer 2A or more and have the data pins shorted in order for us to get maximum current to our Nexus 10's. The Apple/iPad chargers work differently. They either have smart chips or specific resistances between the data pins in order to specify current draw.
-----
What you came here for:
After the long search, the BEST while still very affordable car adapter, is the *drumroll*:
Bracketron Universal Dual USB Car Adapter
2 ports like I wanted. 2A like I wanted.
Contrary to the "Universal" listing, the adapter was likely made for the iPad. So charging out of the box is USB (500ma). But it's easily fixed in under 3 minutes!
---
Instructions:
1. Pop off the round silver plate on the front (with your finger/nail).
2. Unscrew the silver part in the back. Don't lose the spring hidden inside.
3. Slowly pry open the black plastic. It's fairly rigid and you'll hear some clicks. If you don't open it like a crazy monkey, you won't damage or break any plastic.
4. You'll see by each USB port 4 wires going to the port from the circuit board. The 2 middle pins are the data lines, the 2 outer ones are the power lines.
5***. You want to short the data (two middle) pins. All that means is you want them touching electrically. Takes about 10 seconds to do with a solder iron (once it's hot ). Just flow some solder between the two pins, no wire needed. Do the same for the other USB port on the other side.
6. Put the plastic and screwed pieces back together. Plug it in and you should see AC charging! :victory:
***If you're poor at soldering, don't worry - you're doing this on pins in the air, not directly on the board, so it's an extremely easy soldering job. If you've never soldered in your life, you can possibly use some wire instead of solder to connect the two and find a way for it to hold in place. But seriously it's an easy solder job and you should probably learn how to solder anyway.
---
Reading the instructions I wrote takes longer than making the modification.
Why this adapter if you have to solder? It's the only one I can find with dual ports that can actually give 2A to an ANDROID device. Why this of all the other adapters you can attempt to solder? It comes apart extremely easily so you don't break any plastic like many of the other ones. And the adapter is really small so you don't have a huge piece of plastic hanging out of your power port.
Fair note: it looks like it may give 2A max, so charging both my 1A phone and my 2A tablet will actually be slower. But it's perfect for charging the tablet at full speed when by itself or two phones at full speed.
Also, credit to Amazon reviewer 'K. Crawford' for suggesting this adapter as a good one to mod.
If anyone needs help during the process, I'm more than happy to help!
Very nice info, thanks.
Niiice! I heard though even if you hook up the tablet to a 2A charger, the tab will still only take a reduced amount, is that true?
From my measurements, the tablet will draw around 750 ma, so soldering it will help, just not for the full 2A.
rp181 said:
From my measurements, the tablet will draw around 750 ma, so soldering it will help, just not for the full 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You measured 750 ma with the bracketron I linked post-mod?? It should be much higher.. What did you use to measure?
nice instructions, royal.
did I do it right?! check the details beneath one of the photos. you will see some solder popped and landed on the circuit board on the top right. it is touching one of those little enclosed boxes on its own and nothing else. you think this is gonna pose a problem?! if so, any fix? I tried to pull it away, but im not a mastersolderer.
bummer about the picture rule. I think I got some good shots that could help some people. I guess I'll be back to post the pics.
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Gaugerer said:
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It doesn't state if it's "shared" or not. Meaning is that 2.1A total for both or 2.1A each. Lot of them are shared even at 3.1A.
wptski said:
It doesn't state if it's "shared" or not. Meaning is that 2.1A total for both or 2.1A each. Lot of them are shared even at 3.1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It says 5v, 4.2A so that is 2.1A each.
Gaugerer said:
It says 5v, 4.2A so that is 2.1A each.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! My bad, I see that at the top now!
slippy steve said:
nice instructions, royal.
bummer about the picture rule. I think I got some good shots that could help some people. I guess I'll be back to post the pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you able to post pictures yet? I'm happy to take a look and help out. If it won't let you attach pictures, you can try linking to an album on imgur, for example (if it allows links).
Gaugerer said:
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the iPad designation, it's a sure thing that this will need modification. If I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're trying to suggest modified (data-shorted) cables rather than modified adapter. I prefer having a modified adapter so I can use and replace cables at a whim. But if you purchased that one already, you can see if it comes apart and can be modified just as easily.
Royal2000H said:
Are you able to post pictures yet? I'm happy to take a look and help out. If it won't let you attach pictures, you can try linking to an album on imgur, for example (if it allows links).
With the iPad designation, it's a sure thing that this will need modification. If I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're trying to suggest modified (data-shorted) cables rather than modified adapter. I prefer having a modified adapter so I can use and replace cables at a whim. But if you purchased that one already, you can see if it comes apart and can be modified just as easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I purchased a Kensington car charger packaged for an iPad and all that meant is that it came a iPad type cord but still a standard USB port which worked on my Android device.
Some people have said that the cable used also has a lot to do with what the tablet pulls. Some saying a Motorola brand USB cable they had gave much more current. If there is any truth to this then in conjunction with doing this mod to the charger it might be a good idea to buy a cable with 22AWG power conductors:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189234
wptski said:
I purchased a Kensington car charger packaged for an iPad and all that meant is that it came a iPad type cord but still a standard USB port which worked on my Android device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The question isn't whether the port is USB. It's always going to be USB supplying 5V. The question is how much current the device can pull from the charger. A normal USB port (like a computer) can only supply 500mA by spec. The N10 needs 2A. The ones designated for ipad will usually charge your N10 but at a max of 500mA (even if they're rated higher - because the data pins aren't shorted).
Royal2000H said:
The question isn't whether the port is USB. It's always going to be USB supplying 5V. The question is how much current the device can pull from the charger. A normal USB port (like a computer) can only supply 500mA by spec. The N10 needs 2A. The ones designated for ipad will usually charge your N10 but at a max of 500mA (even if they're rated higher - because the data pins aren't shorted).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the data pins aren't shorted, it won't draw more than 500ma, if that's so, how can it be rated at 2.A? I haven't tried my PS with the Nexus 10 yet but did with my other device, had no problem but it has a much smaller battery and I don't remember the details.
I'll try to check it out on the Nexus 10 and post the results.
EDIT
I thried my Kensington or this one: http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-PowerB...158903&sr=1-7&keywords=kensington+car+charger.
I first tried it using a POGO cord and it wouldn't charge. It did using a micro-USB cord over 500ma also.
wptski said:
If the data pins aren't shorted, it won't draw more than 500ma, if that's so, how can it be rated at 2.A? I haven't tried my PS with the Nexus 10 yet but did with my other device, had no problem but it has a much smaller battery and I don't remember the details.
I'll try to check it out on the Nexus 10 and post the results.
EDIT
I thried my Kensington or this one: http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-PowerB...158903&sr=1-7&keywords=kensington+car+charger.
I first tried it using a POGO cord and it wouldn't charge. It did using a micro-USB cord over 500ma also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I explained it all in the Original Post, but I'll try to clarify. If a charger is rated at 2A but doesn't have data pins shorted, the Nexus 10 will only pull 500mA. The manufacturer isn't necessarily lying about the 2A, it likely is capable of giving 2A. However, the Nexus 10 checks for shorted pins before pulling at 2A. This is because USB spec is rated for 500mA and if the Nexus 10 tried to pull 2A from a computer, it would overload the circuits of a computer's USB port and potentially damage the USB hub or computer. So as a somewhat universal decision (though really it's not standardized), most manufacturers did something like this: if data pins are not shorted (as in a computer) - take upto 500mA. If data pins are shorted (as in the charger provided with the device) - take upto what's necessary. This is actually a somewhat problematic solution because a 2A-requiring Nexus 10 plugged into, say, a Galaxy Nexus charger (shorted data but only 1A) could potentially cause damage from overloading.
Therefore, Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
So, as you see, the Apple ones don't have shorted data pins. Therefore a manufacturer of a car charger has to decide: Support Apple devices or support other devices? And some manufacturers do such a bad job, they provide the high current (like 2A) but then don't do Apple's "solution" or the data shorting, thereby rendering their high current useless.
Royal2000H said:
I explained it all in the Original Post, but I'll try to clarify. If a charger is rated at 2A but doesn't have data pins shorted, the Nexus 10 will only pull 500mA. The manufacturer isn't necessarily lying about the 2A, it likely is capable of giving 2A. However, the Nexus 10 checks for shorted pins before pulling at 2A. This is because USB spec is rated for 500mA and if the Nexus 10 tried to pull 2A from a computer, it would overload the circuits of a computer's USB port and potentially damage the USB hub or computer. So as a somewhat universal decision (though really it's not standardized), most manufacturers did something like this: if data pins are not shorted (as in a computer) - take upto 500mA. If data pins are shorted (as in the charger provided with the device) - take upto what's necessary. This is actually a somewhat problematic solution because a 2A-requiring Nexus 10 plugged into, say, a Galaxy Nexus charger (shorted data but only 1A) could potentially cause damage from overloading.
Therefore, Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
So, as you see, the Apple ones don't have shorted data pins. Therefore a manufacturer of a car charger has to decide: Support Apple devices or support other devices? And some manufacturers do such a bad job, they provide the high current (like 2A) but then don't do Apple's "solution" or the data shorting, thereby rendering their high current useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you were to use a PS limited to 1A, it "should" have a saftey to limit that. I used my above mentioned 2.1A PS with a 110VAC>12VDC adapter which was has a 1A max. and it did limit the output. Not saying that all PS would do that without damage though.
While poking around in files, I did find one that lists the power source by name but I forget as to what it showed for the OEM PS. I wonder what it'll show for a car PS?
Sv: Best 2A car charger: Bracketron
I doubt there are phone chargers without current limitations as safety feature. If designed well the charger should limit the current at its max current. Otherwise a lot of chargers would burn.
But I am not sure this is the reality
Skickat från min HTC Desire via Tapatalk 2
Royal2000H said:
...Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe Apple use a pair of different value resistors to create a voltage divider, passing a different voltage to D+ and D-. The presence of this differential voltage on the data pins is what triggers the high power charge capabilities.
Hello, Long time follower, first time poster.
I cannot post the link, but if you search "Juiced Systems 4.2 AMP" in ebay it's the first item under "Best match" and it's $19.99
Has anyone tried these chargers that claim 2.1A per USB port? Or does anyone know of any similar car chargers that charge 2 devices @ 2.1A?
I just want to buy the best charger that isn't going to blow up my phone, and a dual charger would be excellent if possible.
Thanks in advance.
giz_mang said:
Hello, Long time follower, first time poster.
I cannot post the link, but if you search "Juiced Systems 4.2 AMP" in ebay it's the first item under "Best match" and it's $19.99
Has anyone tried these chargers that claim 2.1A per USB port? Or does anyone know of any similar car chargers that charge 2 devices @ 2.1A?
I just want to buy the best charger that isn't going to blow up my phone, and a dual charger would be excellent if possible.
Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's the same one here from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Juiced-System...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 it appears to be apple only.
The one Android customer from that Amazon link said:
I bought this assuming it would charge my Droid DNA at an AC rate. Unfortunately, it charged at a USB rate and could not keep up with usage while driving.
It sounds like with that particular device, in order to get an Android phone to charge at an AC rate is to either modify the charger (through soldering) to short out the data pins or use a USB charge-only cable (DIY modification of an existing cable or purchased one). The Android phone should then see the charger as AC instead of USB for, hopefully, full and faster rate of charge.
I know you are looking for dual port, each with 2.1A - but I wouldn't hold my breath this one will output dual 2.1A without throttling down one of the ports. Its impossible to fit quality circuit in a small cigarette lighter package where due to excess heat the efficiency of your converter will decrease. And even if they manage to produce 4.2A you will either blow your fuse or melt your charger. Just think about it, you won't have any air circulation to even cool it down.
I only trust dual port chargers with 2.1A/1A rating. I reviewed one before - HERE from iSmooth which does work! Also, to my surprise, iSmooth charger was actually made for iPad/iPhone but it WORKS perfectly with Note 2. I can't voucher for other Apple converters, and as a matter of fact I have another one with a separate Apple and Android ports and Note 2 doesn't charge from Apple port. But the one from iSmooth I'm using right now works perfectly for Note 2 and also looks awesome in the car with a blue glow light
Does Quickcharge 2.0 work with heavy duty charge-only cables, or is there a data component that is needed to get Quickcharge to work properly? I'm about to buy an Incipio Quickcharge 2.0 car charger which doesn't come with a cable, and I would like to get a fast charge cable like this one.
I haven't checked with my meter but a standard cable seems to be working as expected with the Motorola provided QC 2 charger.
Any cable will work as far as I know. I just used my old N7 2013 cable with he quick charger and it worked the same as the Motorola one.
Thanks for the replies but I am talking about a non-standard cable., one that only supports charging, but I think I have an answer now.
I asked a cable vendor, PortaPow, and their response is:
"Quick Charge 2.0 requires a charger designed to Qualcomm's specs and a sync+charge cable. A charge only cable such as this one will only work for charging at 5V."
I see that I misunderstood the question. Yes something has to handle the voltage/current handshake if you want anything to happen. I hadn't thought about it but it would seem that even "charge only" cables must do something with the D pins or you'd see an "incompatible charger" message on most devices.
ok so if we must have specific cables to use with the qualcomm chargers, post them up so i can purchase a couple...
According to the patent (http://www.google.com/patents/US20140122909) it uses the data pins. You don't need a special cable, but you'll need a standard usb cable that has all 4 pins intact.
Monoprice carries cables with 28/24AWG for data/power lines, but only with a bulky ferrite choke on them. Looks like most manufacturers don't list wire gauge for their products.
I would like to find a nice 3FT cable with 22AWG copper wire for power, with low voltage drop.
Roundabouts said:
Monoprice carries cables with 28/24AWG for data/power lines, but only with a bulky ferrite choke on them. Looks like most manufacturers don't list wire gauge for their products.
I would like to find a nice 3FT cable with 22AWG copper wire for power, with low voltage drop.
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Voltage drop isn't worth mentioning with a 3' cable and 22AWG seems like overkill. If anything it'd be adding resistance, no? I realize it's stranded, but still. 24AWG should be more than enough, I'd think.
Edit: Got confused on my gauges.
estallings15 said:
V22AWG seems like overkill. If anything it'd be adding resistance, no?
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While increasing volume of wire (lower gauge) won't increase resistance we're talking about 5-13V and .5-5A so any cable you might buy that meets USB spec will be fine.
I used the supplied cable and a 10' cable. Neither got warm and both charged at QC2 speed.
Roundabouts said:
Thanks for the replies but I am talking about a non-standard cable., one that only supports charging, but I think I have an answer now.
I asked a cable vendor, PortaPow, and their response is:
"Quick Charge 2.0 requires a charger designed to Qualcomm's specs and a sync+charge cable. A charge only cable such as this one will only work for charging at 5V."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I purchased 2 of their compatible cables - http://www.portablepowersupplies.co.uk/portapow-20awg-fast-charge-sync-micro-usb-cable/
and decided to go with Puregear's quick charger - http://www.ebay.com/itm/15149060665...38.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&rmvSB=true
The Puregear quick charger is small and has a rubbery soft finish.
Do the cables work at full amperage?