Database Develop

Does Battery Life depend on charging method?

I seem to get a longer battery life (first step down from 100%) if I charge my MDA C4 using the supplied charger as opposed to a charge from a PC using the USB lead.
If I charge using the charger, and just use 2G, I get approx 14 hours before the first drop in the batterymeter. From the PC it happens well before 11 hours.
Is this possible or am I just imagining things?

tmohammad said:
I seem to get a longer battery life (first step down from 100%) if I charge my MDA C4 using the supplied charger as opposed to a charge from a PC using the USB lead.
If I charge using the charger, and just use 2G, I get approx 14 hours before the first drop in the batterymeter. From the PC it happens well before 11 hours.
Is this possible or am I just imagining things?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To get full capacity phone needs 5v 1000mA (= 1A) input, which is the charger outputs. If the PC USB output cannot pump that amount it might last shorter....

a PC's standard USB port only outputs 500mA (0.5A)
i think the supplied charger may be 2A (cant check atm), i know the official HTC Car Charger is 2A.
Cheers,

mugglesquop said:
a PC's standard USB port only outputs 500mA (0.5A)
i think the supplied charger may be 2A (cant check atm), i know the official HTC Car Charger is 2A.
Cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My original HTC charger (Model: TC P300) outputs 5v 1A

Interesting. I'll check the HTC charger when I get home.
However, Would this not mean that it would just take longer to charge the battery?
(Analagous to having to fill a bucket of water from a 1/2" bore pipe as opposed to a 1" bore pipe).

Artyaw said:
My original HTC charger (Model: TC P300) outputs 5v 1A
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Click to collapse
My original HTC charger is at 5V 2A.

What I did notice is that charging form USB takes much longer than charging off the wall.

Sergio PC said:
What I did notice is that charging form USB takes much longer than charging off the wall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will do, should not effect the overall charge (as long as it is left long enough!)

tmohammad said:
(Analagous to having to fill a bucket of water from a 1/2" bore pipe as opposed to a 1" bore pipe).
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Click to collapse
Correct, actually water analogy is quite often used here

yes i thought that...
phone charge lasted longer with the mains charger than the usb on pc
and usb pc takes ages to charge full

So I guess we'll all be using our wall chargers now? As the charge is faster and some believe better!
Make no sense to me as to why the charge of the PCs USB cable is not as good as from the wall....
However the slow charge time bit of it makes sense

Car Charger
I have huge problem with my car charger. I use Noname USB car charger, that worked perfectly with my Trinity. Now, when i connect my Diamond it sometimes connects and disconnects the device to USB twice in two seconds and so if the battery is low message about battery fklashes in an out. SOmetimes it does not happen and the battery is charging normally. When i start IGO8 while battery is full and Diamond being charged, it sometimes LOOSES power and after couple of hours it gets out of power even when charged. Sometimes it doesnt happen and the device is charging properly, but very very slowly. When i turn device off, it charges normally. I tried two different chargers and get the same results. But none was HTC original.

It's irrelevent how the phone was charged. If the battery is full, then its full ,and it will last the same period of time irrespective of how it was charged.
Charging rates will vary depending on input current, but once the touch sensor light stays on, then the battery is full.

Car chargers bricking Kaisers

What exactly is the scoop on this? Is it that they overpower the charging circuit (everyone says they charge the phones faster)? Is there a way to tell you're about to do damage?
I don't use the car charger that came with my Kaiser, I have several generic chargers which all work just fine. However I noticed that when running GPS, although the charge light was on, the battery wouldn't really charge. It wouldn't discharge either, I put it up to the extra drain on the phone's power system.
The other day though, my phone... stopped charging? I was driving (GPS) and the phone suddenly beeped a critical battery warning, the charge light was off... but the power was plugged in and the charger's power light in the cigarette socket was on. It WAS making a connection to the phone: if I unplugged it the screen would go dimmer, if I plugged it back in it would get brighter. But it still seemed to be running off the battery, which was draining regardless. The moment I got to my destination, it all powered off. Is this a forewarning of darker circumstances to come?

from what I've read you should not be using generic chargers. The amperage could differ. Therefore, if the electricity in your vehicle spikes you could be riding with a paper weight.
In addition, it is common that your device will not charge (nor discharge) while running your gps application. I play monopoly often while my phone is in the charger and my device usually doesn't charge while I am playing.

Also, I think the pinout on generic USB chargers are different. The ones that are for Moto Razr / Blackberry phones dont work to charge the phones ( as I have a work blackberry and tried it) It didnt hurt my phone, however it just didnt charge. I have heard of others damaging but if its not made for the kaiser, I wouldn't try it.

I've never had access to Moto Razr / Blackberry chargers. While I can't speak for those, I know generic USB chargers would have exactly the same pinout as the stock Kaiser charger. The amperage supplied may indeed differ, I think that might have explained my issue above. It was almost like the charge circuit 'gave up' since the phone was demanding as much/more power as it was getting.

CrArc said:
I've never had access to Moto Razr / Blackberry chargers. While I can't speak for those, I know generic USB chargers would have exactly the same pinout as the stock Kaiser charger. The amperage supplied may indeed differ, I think that might have explained my issue above. It was almost like the charge circuit 'gave up' since the phone was demanding as much/more power as it was getting.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My razr charger works perfect with my tilt.. (MOTOROLLA branded - not generic)

Ditto on the motorola razr charger;Have an old razr charger I use it for travelling instead of unplugging my original;works fine!!

+2 on the Motorola branded car charger...charges my Tilt just fine. Now I'm paranoid, though...

CrArc said:
What exactly is the scoop on this? Is it that they overpower the charging circuit (everyone says they charge the phones faster)? Is there a way to tell you're about to do damage?
I don't use the car charger that came with my Kaiser, I have several generic chargers which all work just fine. However I noticed that when running GPS, although the charge light was on, the battery wouldn't really charge. It wouldn't discharge either, I put it up to the extra drain on the phone's power system.
The other day though, my phone... stopped charging? I was driving (GPS) and the phone suddenly beeped a critical battery warning, the charge light was off... but the power was plugged in and the charger's power light in the cigarette socket was on. It WAS making a connection to the phone: if I unplugged it the screen would go dimmer, if I plugged it back in it would get brighter. But it still seemed to be running off the battery, which was draining regardless. The moment I got to my destination, it all powered off. Is this a forewarning of darker circumstances to come?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is the exact same thing I am experiencing with my Tilt.
Tilt is charging from a generic car-to-USB and USB cable.
I start TomTom.
Charging works fine for a while.
Then suddenly the charging stops and the battery is drained.
I found only two ways to get it to charge again:
1. Turn off device with TomTom charging; hold Tilt against cool air flowing from AC; plug into charger (while still off) ... then the phone turns on and charges.
2. Take out the battery; put it back in ... start phone.

It does seem that either the phone can draw power faster than a USB charger can supply it or the use of wifi and gps whilst charging overheats it. I particularly see this behavior when I'm running tomtom and navizon. The phone seems to remain charging longer in cooler weather or if I point an air vent at it. My current no wifi woes started after an occurrence of just this behaviour the other day.

RAZR chargers don't have enough current and it doesn't keep a positive charge when using the GPS. It says it's charging but ultimately it goes down. Sometimes it stops charging and I had to unplug it and plug it back in. Use a charger made for the Kaiser. The charger from my brother's bluetooth GPS works fine though.

I have a generic USB cigar lighter adapter which I have been using to power mine with no problem. The only way I can see a charger frying a phone is if there is a voltage spike that isn't regulated.

The charger needs to be rated with an output of 5v 2amps which is what the electric charger is rated at. Bought one off ebay for $6. Most car chargers are rated quite a bit lower (400ma).

As the previous post states, some chargers are rated at under 500ma. This is not enough to change the Kaiser... I find that the Blackberry charger works fine, but sometimes takes a very long time to charge as the current isn't quite enough. I have a generic one at about 1000ma and that works fine.
USB from a PC is normally 500ma sustained.

I think there's another thread or 2 about this somewhere. I've been having the same problem with the Kaiser not charging via generic and razr car chargers.
After seeing the other thread I bought an HTC charger from ebay - at least it looks like one and is advertised as one! The sticker on the 'real' HTC charger only says 0.5 amp (same as the others are rated), but charges no problem with TomTom going.
I tried measuring the current using different chargers and PowerGuard and I think there is a definite difference (although not an easy thing to interpret). I notice the cable is significantly heavier on the real HTC charger (also coiled and tends to drag the phone from where I mount it a little). Others have said the pinouts are different too.
I looked for a 2amp charger but couldn't find one (if anyone knows a source?).
It's an intriguing problem but a 'real' HTC charger seems to fix it.
The other thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=406771

There were a range of brodit car mounts with built-in chargers that bricked the kaiser. I bought one and it instantly blew it's fuse. I replace the fuse and it blew my kaiser up instead.
Assuming it was the kaiser I had it replaced, only for the charger to blow it up again.
Since then I contacted dsldevelopments (UK Distributor) who replaced it with an updated model. I have not had any issues after that.

I had this problem (Kaiser not charging in the car when GPS is on) and resolved it totally by getting the offical HTC car charger. Although output is 0.5A it is rated to 2A - my previous generic car charger was only rated to one amp and that would work fine as long I wasn't using GPS but once I ran GPS it just couldn't cope. Definately resolved this problem with the official HTC car charger (got mine of flea bay for £8)
cheers
Barney

I've had no problem with designed-for-Moto chargers and ones specifically designed to charge over USB from a dumb charger.
The problem is that drawing more than 100 mA without negotiating a connection with a PC violates the USB specification. Many manufacturers have gotten around this by finding other ways to signal the presence of a "dumb" charger, telling the phone it can draw more than 100 mA.
In the case of Mini-USB devices like the Motos, Blackberries, and HTC devices, the Mini-USB connector has a fifth pin that is normally not connected. If the charger plug grounds this pin, it signals to the device that it is permitted to draw more than 100 mA without a PC connection.
If you get a charger that does not ground this pin, an HTC device will not charge rapidly, if at all. (Typically only charges slowly when screen is off). This is why you get two cables when you order a single MiniSync from BoxWave, for example. They give you one "Sync and charge from PC" cable (no pin grounded) and one "Charge only" cable (pin grounded for dumb chargers). (If the pin is grounded it interferes with data communications for most devices.)

I use a motorola charger, which is fine if you do not use GPS.
when I use the GPS after some time the battery is very hot and stops load, but if I put the cell in front of the AC, just cools again to load.
I think the problem is due to protection from overheating battery

Belkin Charger
I grabbed a Belkin charger for my KRAZR/RAZR phones and it seems to work just fine, even with GPS running. My official Moto one also works fine with the tilt in GPS mode.
I do notice, though, that no matter what I'm using to charge it with, with GPS it gets hot. Since Li-Ion batteries are supposed to stop charging at a certain temp, it's possible that the combination of a lower grade charger and the heat generated by using GPS/WiFi/Cell at the same time (or any combo of the three), might be the issue.

HD2 killing car chargers??

My HD2 has just killed it's second car charger, grr! Has anyone else had this problem with generic micro USB chargers? Or genuine HTC ones?
The power light comes on in the charger but nothing happens on the phone. My car holder charger was in 2 sections, a mini USB cable to the cradle and then a converter to micro USB in the cradle. If you swap the mini USB cable the rest works, but with the broken cable, the cradle power indicator still lights up.
Thanks in advance if anyone's had the same problem or got some advice.

dizzi141 said:
My HD2 has just killed it's second car charger, grr! Has anyone else had this problem with generic micro USB chargers? Or genuine HTC ones?
The power light comes on in the charger but nothing happens on the phone. My car holder charger was in 2 sections, a mini USB cable to the cradle and then a converter to micro USB in the cradle. If you swap the mini USB cable the rest works, but with the broken cable, the cradle power indicator still lights up.
Thanks in advance if anyone's had the same problem or got some advice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How hot is the phone?
If it is too hot (usually from a car charger in a hot environment), the Leo will not charge. The HD2 will blink green and orange.

Hello dizzi141,
Same problem here, already one car charger down. I have a red led burning on the car charger but nothing happens on the device ...
Grtz

My charger is working but charger is getting very hot and it charging the phone very slowly like 7-10 min one percent (%1) any way to fix this problem?

It's not a heat thing as far as I can tell, it works one minute and then next time it's dead. The phone doesn't recognise it's plugged into a charger even.

So the led is not blinking at all? (when plugged in to charger)

Shure that its your htc hd2 killing and not the car ? Cheapass chargers suks bigtime

Power consumption
Could it be that your generic charger is rated at 500mA and the HD2 can draw somewhere between 1500 and 2000mA ?
That might blow a fuse (or burn up the voltage regulator if unfused) in the "el-cheapo" car charger..
Personally, I'm using a 1000mA USB adapter from dealextreme.com
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.34040
and a standard USB cable.
Works perfectly for me.
(Sure, I might get the orange/green LED, but that's because of heat. I get that with original charger too, if it's too hot when I charge.)
Just my two cents...

I used to have a lower power generic car charger but it blew after a couple of months of occasional use.
For 'peace of mind' I brought the official HTC one as advised in the accessories section of their website, it's still working fine now after about 3 months of occasional use (just have to wiggle it around a bit to make a good connection in the socket sometimes).
I do have to align the screen mount to an aircon vent on the dash to keep it cool though, it overheats in no time - and that's just uk heat!

I haven't had any problems with heat or charging. I use this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021129 , you can get them pretty cheap if you watch their email promos.

I'd agree with Bonzo.
I have tested few chargers (Samsung branded including ).
Everything what was not marked as 1A (1000mA) output was useless.

i use the origininale htc`s car chargers.
they work flawless.
CC-C200 for the hd2
i had a CC-C100 before.

USB charging in car?

Iam using the Dell Streak 7 as a sat nav system in the car. Ive tried to charge it up on the usb car adapter but it seems to loose its charge over time, making the D7 unusable for the purpose of a sat nav. Am i doing something wrong or is there a special usb car adapter for the job?
Thanks, David.

Does it say it's charging when plugged in?
Depending on how powerful your charger is it's likely that it's draining faster then the charger can provide. At best on my s5 it's just barely faster then the charger and the s7 needs more power then that.

Thanks for peply, yes it states it is plugged in. I came to the same conclusion. Wonder if there are any other chargers that have more juice.

diddy64 said:
Thanks for peply, yes it states it is plugged in. I came to the same conclusion. Wonder if there are any other chargers that have more juice.
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Click to collapse
There are several that will do the job. Just look for specs that include putting out 5.5 volts and 2 amps. Several of the chargers that are made for the iPad2 will work. And you may want to install a lighter adapter that you can wire directly to the battery that will allow up to 2 or 3 amps from each port

Most standard USB ports do not put out enough power to charge the DS7. The best bet is to use a inverter that plugs into your cigarette lighter and then plug the charger into that, not just the USB cable.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Inverter-Charger-Portable-SmartPhones/dp/B00144KS6W

I use this setup:
Bestek Adapter
Trans4m lighter adapter
The Bestek I have wired to the battery so I have no fuse problems with lighter, and with that I can charge either my iPad2 or my Streak7, IF I need to charge both, then I plug the Transform adapter into the Bestek and can then charge BOTH devices, the Ipad2 AND the Streak7 and a couple of other things if need be

Thank you guys, this gives me alot of hope. Once again you all get my thanks.
Cheers,
David.

Yea, like they previously stated not all chargers are created equal.
Unless it states it's a tablet/ipad charger you cant assume it's doing 2+ amps. Most phone/lower end ones can only do 500mA/1A.
Realistically you'd prob need at least 2 amps to get a net gain while using gps/anything demanding. But I dont know if it would even try and draw above that if given the chance. [email protected] is what the bundled wall charger does and can accept up to 5.5v (as it's still within the +/-10% tolerence of the usb spec, but just barely)

My fully charged stock S7 WiFi running 514 draws only 45-70mA. Maybe starting fully charged would help?

wptski said:
My fully charged stock S7 WiFi running 514 draws only 45-70mA. Maybe starting fully charged would help?
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I don't know anything about how it works, but I imagine tablets are wired to know when they are receiving the correct amount of input. For instance, if you connect your Streak 7 to a powered USB hub that only puts out 5 volts, it won't charge nor will it charge when connect via usb to the PC, it has to be receiving 5.5 volts and 2 amps before it will let itself receive charge. I have an iPad that is the same way and have noticed all the tablets I have had my hands on are the same, Galaxy Tabs, Transformers, Xoom... all those have to receive higher numbers to charge. So you have to have a cigarrette lighter adapter that puts that out, if it's for a cell phone it won't do anything for it

cdzo72 said:
I don't know anything about how it works, but I imagine tablets are wired to know when they are receiving the correct amount of input. For instance, if you connect your Streak 7 to a powered USB hub that only puts out 5 volts, it won't charge nor will it charge when connect via usb to the PC, it has to be receiving 5.5 volts and 2 amps before it will let itself receive charge. I have an iPad that is the same way and have noticed all the tablets I have had my hands on are the same, Galaxy Tabs, Transformers, Xoom... all those have to receive higher numbers to charge. So you have to have a cigarrette lighter adapter that puts that out, if it's for a cell phone it won't do anything for it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The voltage is constant but current isn't. It won't know how much current is available unless it asks for it. It's like a 2A fuse, you can draw up to 2A, no more.
Even with a fully charged battery it'll show charging at 98% for a short time and that's when I saw the higher 70mA but I'm not sure if it's in the CC or CV part of a Li-Ion charge cycle but I'd guess CV because it's less than 100mA.

My bad thinking measuring AC input current instead of DC current since this thread is about USB power.
Used a cheap ReTrak USB extension cord that loses connections to seperate the wire to measure DC current. My fully charged S7 showing 100% charge still draws 150mA after hours of being plugged in. Since Li-Ion cells normally don't use a constant trickle charge, I "assume" something draws on the battery all the time along with the indicator light and buttons.
Booting up it draws a little over 1A, fully charged while booted up, it draws around 600mA. While charging and powered up, it draws 914mA. Charging while off, it draws 1160mA. Far from 2A.

wptski said:
My bad thinking measuring AC input current instead of DC current since this thread is about USB power.
Used a cheap ReTrak USB extension cord that loses connections to seperate the wire to measure DC current. My fully charged S7 showing 100% charge still draws 150mA after hours of being plugged in. Since Li-Ion cells normally don't use a constant trickle charge, I "assume" something draws on the battery all the time along with the indicator light and buttons.
Booting up it draws a little over 1A, fully charged while booted up, it draws around 600mA. While charging and powered up, it draws 914mA. Charging while off, it draws 1160mA. Far from 2A.
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Click to collapse
I understand that, but you are missing the point, if the internal wiring of these tablets don't receive the 2A they want they WILL NOT even begin to charge. I tried literally dozens of chargers when I first got my S7, spent a couple hundred bucks actually, and none of the chargers not meant for larger devices won't work, and what those chargers all had in common, 2A output

The S7 can and will draw off low capacity ports, it just wont admit to charging unless it's at least 1A as it's just that.
I've had my S7 charge off a 500mA port on my pc at the rate of like 1%/hour while sleeping. As it's barely gaining even while idleing it's not really charging in the literal sense, but it's definitely charging in the technical sense.
Are your data lines shorted together? I believe most high draw devices wont attempt to pull 2A unless it detects that it's on a high draw charger (which I think do this to indicate it as such)

cdzo72 said:
I understand that, but you are missing the point, if the internal wiring of these tablets don't receive the 2A they want they WILL NOT even begin to charge. I tried literally dozens of chargers when I first got my S7, spent a couple hundred bucks actually, and none of the chargers not meant for larger devices won't work, and what those chargers all had in common, 2A output
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know why your various chargers didn't work but it doesn't seem to be because of current. It didn't charge at 2A or even close to that.
If what your saying correct, why was I able to charge at less than 2A then? Could this be a ROM issue? I only had Froyo for a few hours but I've read that it didn't support USB charging which came with HC but it only charges with the S7 OFF.
It's possible that the demand went higher and I just didn't see on my current clamp meter. I'll have to try a current clamp and a scope to see if I missed a peak level.
Also what we are refering to as the charger might not be a charger but only a power supply and the actual charging circuit is in the S7.
I did notice one odd thing though. The green LED lights up at around 90% battery level and it's still charging. I downloaded a battery app which read the same level.

wptski said:
I don't know why your various chargers didn't work but it doesn't seem to be because of current. It didn't charge at 2A or even close to that.
If what your saying correct, why was I able to charge at less than 2A then? Could this be a ROM issue? I only had Froyo for a few hours but I've read that it didn't support USB charging which came with HC but it only charges with the S7 OFF.
It's possible that the demand went higher and I just didn't see on my current clamp meter. I'll have to try a current clamp and a scope to see if I missed a peak level.
Also what we are refering to as the charger might not be a charger but only a power supply and the actual charging circuit is in the S7.
I did notice one odd thing though. The green LED lights up at around 90% battery level and it's still charging. I downloaded a battery app which read the same level.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You were able to charge because your charger was CAPABLE of outputting 2A at least... try charging with one that CAN'T put that out and you should find that the Streak will not charge, on ANY ROM has been my experience, custom or stock

cdzo72 said:
You were able to charge because your charger was CAPABLE of outputting 2A at least... try charging with one that CAN'T put that out and you should find that the Streak will not charge, on ANY ROM has been my experience, custom or stock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Capable is the magic word here. The wall wart isn't putting out 2A from what I've seen, unless it does for a split second at the start which I'm going to look into.
Most wall warts at whatever their rating is put out a higher voltage with no load and slightly higher than its marked voltage under a load. If it required [email protected] max., you used a [email protected], S7 needs more current, the voltage would decrease. What's been stated here might be that the voltage was being pulled down and that's why the S7 wouldn't charge, not "really" the 2A issue.
I have a battery pack/cell load testing device used on RC stuff that connects via USB port for its graphic software. There were issues with certain Dell laptops that had a low voltage at their USB ports.

Maybe starting fully charged would help?
I have the OEM T-Mobile car charger and I've found that if I have a full charge before plugging the Streak into the charger it maintains a full charge for as long as I'm driving/using it. Otherwise, with a less than full charge I've watched it slowly discharge even though it's plugged in and is charging.
FYI: I also have a top of the line car charger for an iPad2 that charges the iPad no matter what charge level I plug it in. This iPad charger has a USB port which I have plugged the Streak USB cord into and it also doesn't keep up with the Streak's discharge if the Streak isn't a full charge to begin with. Kind of strange because I would think the iPad would draw more than a Streak. (the iPad isn't plugged in at the same time the Streak is charging)

DCoop said:
Maybe starting fully charged would help?
I have the OEM T-Mobile car charger and I've found that if I have a full charge before plugging the Streak into the charger it maintains a full charge for as long as I'm driving/using it. Otherwise, with a less than full charge I've watched it slowly discharge even though it's plugged in and is charging.
FYI: I also have a top of the line car charger for an iPad2 that charges the iPad no matter what charge level I plug it in. This iPad charger has a USB port which I have plugged the Streak USB cord into and it also doesn't keep up with the Streak's discharge if the Streak isn't a full charge to begin with. Kind of strange because I would think the iPad would draw more than a Streak. (the iPad isn't plugged in at the same time the Streak is charging)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The S7 must run some check before it tries to charge . Whatever it is the OEM supplied power supply passes the test.
What's the specs on your two power supplies?

Just remember if you dont have the same 2A for charging in the car. You cannot charge the streak while its TURNED ON. Same with USB charging, just turn the streak OFF, then charge. It will work. =)
Otherwise, Id get a DC to AC converter for the car, plug in your normal adapter.

Car Chargers

Hey all, I know this is a development area - but there is no General section for the G9... anyway...
I have an 80 Gen 9 original none hard drive none turbo which im installing in my car. So far it looks really really good - ill post a video when i finally get the facia on it. However I am struggling to keep up with the charge power wise.
I originally brought a tomtom microusb charger - which according to form puts out 1 amp (not enough). This works fine on my HTC evo 3d, but cant keep up with the power consumption of the 80. It does not show as a "slow" charger.
I then brought an adapter off ebay that has a 2.1a and a 1a port. These originally showed as slow, so I made an adapter cable shorting the data pins so it knows its a charger - but neither port can keep the thing powered, and both these and the tomtom 1 amp seem to discharge at the same speed while plugged in.
Im waiting on one from newmp3technology that is stated as a fast charger for the archos g9...
Now, on the device i have turned off bluetooth and wifi turned off, backlight always on at around 1/2 brightness, and i have it running an external laptop hard drive off the port on the back. GPS gets turned on when necassary - but doesnt really seem to negatively affect the power situation (which was kinda surpising). Ive set the maximum CPU usage at just 600mhz to try and kerb the power consumption also. While driving i have Poweramp continually playing, and have used copilot on and off for sat nav. It doesnt drop fast - but nor is it staying fully charged. Im sure I had no problems with this while on AC power in the house.
If anyone knows of a working fast charger, or has a suggestion I would be most greatful. I may between now and then test with an invertor and ac power supply. One other idea I have is to run the USB hard drive with a powered USB hub, to move the power consumption away from the device.

I believe there was one of those dual-usb chargers from Belkin, but knowing them the charger could be pretty expensive.
It also has one 2 amp and one 1 amp slot, though I have not tried it yet.

i have this
http://www.newmp3technology.com/francais/all-Archos-model-charger.htm

This is an other option www.newmp3technology.com/francais/archos-101-80-g9-cigar-split.htm

I also need to be able to run/ charge my 80G9 turbo on the road for long periods.
first the basics, the original Archos cable must be used to get max charge (its short and has the log like thing inline near tablet) every other cable/ wall charger I have tried will only give weak charge and if using tablet with other cable it may never charge at all *if you know this great, but everyday others have to find this out the slow or no charge way
now, that applies to the wall plug for sure but with a cigarette lighter usb adapter I'm not so sure you will get enough juice just with that cable. If there is a 12V adapter or complete plug and usb cord that gives full needed output, great. until its used and proven (real world) I don't know if it exist yet.
the best alternative may be to use a Power Inverter like one below, there are so many available I don't know if the ones with usb outlets would work, I have a cheap inverter I need to try but just with factory Archos wall plug & cable (I've used it in the past to power a hand grinder etc. with no problem, car battery stayed charged up even when vehicle was off)
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-2003-6-...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329710122&sr=1-17

I use the original Wall-Charger that came with the Tablet in conjunction with an HTC USB Cable that came with my HTC Desire.
It's charging as fast as with the original Archos USB Cable.
Even the small Wall-Charger from the Desire charges the Tablet very fast.

OK Ive received the so called fast charger from newmp3technology and it registers as a slow charger using the original supplied cable from archos. It took 17 days to arrive... not particularly happy with newmp3technology.
Anyway, I have found that the tomtom charger does actually charge the system while it is active - even though its only a 1 amp charger and the system requires 1.5 amp. Over about a week of driving for approx 1.5 - 2 hours a day the charge has risen from 0% to 19%. I had a USB extension (no more than 1 meter long) in line with the charger and that actually slowed the rate of charge.
The system is active the whole time - usually playing music through power amp, and sometimes using GPS via copilot. Ill test again to see that it can still maintain charge with GPS running. These devices really only require a small amount of power - I used to run a full computer in car and that pulled a bunch of power.

Here's the general section
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1511

No Probs - unfortunately that section did not exist when i created this thread...