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i have a v1615 and want to use it to play online with my ps3 (which is in my car so i need some form of mobile connection) i have tried using WMWifiRouter which didnt work and i have tried using it wired but with no luck so has anyone got any ideas to help me???
i wouldnt recomend it unless you data service is free. coz the information that would download is insane and not to mention the data transfer speed will be slow
data useage isnt an issue as im Vodafone staff and on a true unlimited plan. I also have a HSDPA wireless usb modem and if you could think of a way to use that to get me ps3 online ide appreciate it!
see due to the price i aint got either a ps3 so i cant really help there, i just didnt want you doing it then getting a huge bill
tell us more bout your setups
on the phone or the whole in car solution?
kantosbrin said:
on the phone or the whole in car solution?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car solution please.
aye sorry internet went off what zee zee said
7" monitor in my head unit, ps3 (via crappy aux cables), psp and nokia n95 linked to a scart box which goes to the head unit. sub and amp in the boot ps3 powered off the amp via a invertor and the missing piece of the puzzle is online gaming also getin a 10.4" fold down roof mounted screen for the back but gota wait til payday now
i might be wrong here but i think youd need a driver on your ps3. so it recognises the tytn 2. but i wouldnt kno how to do that
What problems were you having with WMWifiRouter?
I use the paid version and it works flawlessly.
What steps did you take to try to get it working on the wired connection? I've used internet sharing through my usb cable and bluetooth and gotten it to work before, but depending on your computer and rom setup you may have issues (I've certainly run into a few).
EDIT: I assumed you had a computer in the car too but reading back I see no mention of this. If you have a laptop or a car computer you can use, this would solve your issue plus give you a computer in the car
Use clearwire
i use my TD to play music in my car, so i connect it with the USB entrance of my car radio, i have to choose 'DiskDrive' else it doesn't work...
(just to say, sometimes the connection goes dead and i have to reconnect it wich is jdkfjmkdkfjfkjjsfksdkfj...)
now while listening to my music, i also wonna use tomtom, but tomtom is installed in my internal storage (WE map = 1.7 GB) so i can't access it because my TD is connected with my radio as a 'diskdrive'
does anyone know a solution for this???
http://www.mymemory.co.uk/USB-Flash-Drives/Kingston/Kingston-4GB-Data-Traveler-USB-Flash-Drive
just so u know, i allready tried installing tomtom application on my diamond and only the maps on the internal storage...
same result
Davey101 said:
http://www.mymemory.co.uk/USB-Flash-Drives/Kingston/Kingston-4GB-Data-Traveler-USB-Flash-Drive
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Click to collapse
good hint, problem is, i wonna know if this is possible, cuz i just ordered a new car and it doens't have a radio USB input, but i can connect my TD to it with some accessoires, but if i can't play my music and tomtom in the same time i will have to buy an ipod or so
nickgeys said:
good hint, problem is, i wonna know if this is possible, cuz i just ordered a new car and it doens't have a radio USB input, but i can connect my TD to it with some accessoires, but if i can't play my music and tomtom in the same time i will have to buy an ipod or so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think it's possible. Even if it were then a separate USB flash drive (plus a Diamond car charger) would always be a better solution.
What accessories? Do you mean an audio cable, feeding the audio out from the diamond to an aux input on the head unit? If that's the case then you don't need access to the internal storage.
As Davey said, if you're using a USB <--> Stereo adapter, then the phone isn't in disk-drive mode, and therefore you can use GPS and Windows Media Player (or whatever) at the same time.
I did this not more than 15 minutes ago.
hexydes said:
As Davey said, if you're using a USB <--> Stereo adapter, then the phone isn't in disk-drive mode, and therefore you can use GPS and Windows Media Player (or whatever) at the same time.
I did this not more than 15 minutes ago.
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Click to collapse
lol i doubt that, but i'll try it when i have my new car... when plugged in USB drive i HAVE to use 'disk-drive' cuz it won't work with active sync...
nickgeys said:
lol i doubt that, but i'll try it when i have my new car... when plugged in USB drive i HAVE to use 'disk-drive' cuz it won't work with active sync...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right in that it probably won't use activesync.
You're wrong in that it probably won't use "disk-drive" either. If it did, you could just use a USB pen drive instead. You certainly couldn't use the Diamond running TomTom, given that this is NOT possible.
As explained, you're probably talking about a simple USB audio cable. Don't expect it to sound very good and don't expect to be able to control the music from your head unit. An iPod may turn out to be a better option seeing as many head units with iPod adapters feature full iPod control. Good luck!
@nickgeys
I've got the same problem as you.
I've put one USB cable beetwen the Diamond and the car radio.
the car radio see an USB storage drive and scan it to find mp3 (5 min for me, my drive is 3/4 full).
So yes, we use "disk-drive" on the diamond in a car.
Perhaps we didn't want to hear "turn left" on the radio, perhaps we want to make a phone call while listening music and following GPS instructions.
Perhaps we didn't want to manage multiple MP3 folder (one on the Diamond, one on the USB card for the car...)
Perhaps we want to use the car remote control on the driving weel to switch between albums..... many reason
I won't buy a USB storage card or an Ipod !!!!! When i go to a car garage to repair my car, i don't expet to hear the mechanic telling me to buy a bike.
I've already use an USB storage card for my wife music (far from my taste)
I want to share on the USB only a folder.
BTW, i understand that the 'disk-drive' function plug the usb directly to the storage for performance reason. When you transfert files by ActiveSync and DriveStorage, we can see different tranferts speed.
Well, if you have a bluetooth enabled car stereo, your problems will be solved
Anyways, do you only have a usb port in your car stereo? Don't you have an AUX (mini-jack, 3,5mm)? Because if you do, I believe you can use an usb to 3,5mm adapter and plug it to your AUX...if I'm not mistaken? Haven't tried this myself tho, cause I got myself a Sony Bluetooth car stereo
Thank you for you help, but this didn't give response to my answer.
I know how to plug à 3.5 mn on my car radio.
but i want tomtom sound (radar alarm) on the phone, and music in the car radio.
With your 3.5mn jack solution, how do you
- use the car remote control ?
- make a phone call while listening music ?
Buy an Ipod ?
Don't you think it's cheaper to burn a CD-rom with mp3 on it ?
The question was : How to limit the usd driver to one folder and not the entire 4gb storage.
For those how read "how to listen music in my car", please re-read the question.
i just received my nexus desk dock and i noticed it was using blue tooth to stream audio,
i cant find anything on connecting a Linux pc to the desktop to stream audio to this thing.
when my pc scans for blue tooth devices it sees it for 1 sec before it disappears.
any thoughts, i just think it would be uber cool if it is possible
Wait.. so what is that you want to do? Transfer audio from the PC to the phone/dock or from the dock/phone to the PC? The latter is entirely possible, I just don't know how hard it is to achieve it on a Linux machine. On my Windows 7 machine with bluesoleil bluetooth stack, I can transfer music from my phone through my PC to my home audio system without a problem. No dock needed.
i was thinking of streaming audio to the nexus dock from my pc without using my phone.
kinda like how u can stream audio from phone to dock and keep the blue tooth connection.
nothing to do with the phone.
just want to save 50 bucks, and the nexus dock was kinda pricey,
Oh I see. I don't have the dock, but I don't see any problem doing this unless the dock deliberately refuses connection with everything but the Nexus one.
You might want to try this with a computer that is known to be able to connect to bluetooth audio devices (like bluetooth headphones).
Hi,
I am a new user to the forums. Recently I have purchased TV out original samsung 3.5 to RCA cable for TV out capability but I see distorted image on TV. Thought it was a cable problem and went to at&t device support center but they couldn't help me out because they can't test my device at there center. I wonder any one tried it and if so is there any limitation on hardware/software for captivate.
Please help.
shashib said:
Hi,
I am a new user to the forums. Recently I have purchased TV out original samsung 3.5 to RCA cable for TV out capability but I see distorted image on TV. Thought it was a cable problem and went to at&t device support center but they couldn't help me out because they can't test my device at there center. I wonder any one tried it and if so is there any limitation on hardware/software for captivate.
Please help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine works just fine, quality is comparable to an old VHS vcr.
Some cables you have to switch the red audio out with the video to get them to work right.(use right audio for video, and video for right audio)
nickm50 said:
Mine works just fine, quality is comparable to an old VHS vcr.
Some cables you have to switch the red audio out with the video to get them to work right.(use right audio for video, and video for right audio)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you Nick for the quick input. I appreciate your concern.
Might want to also try jacking with the cable on the phone end.
The 3.5mm Jack isn't exactly a "Great" output mthod for Video. Try just pulling it up and pushing it down a little. You can fell where the grooves are. Just try to move them around in there to get a better connection.
Thats what worked for me @ least.
I'm slightly miffed as to why Samsung decided no HDMI out, and instead stuck with a crappy 3.5mm headphone out for video.
Works fine for me....can't seem to get the volume any louder though
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
I also get the same distorted video and a buzzing-hum that drowns out the audio with my 3.5 to RCA/AV cable. I have tried both tv out settings on the phone and swapping the red and yellow ends of the cable. I can, however, use my Play Station 3 to watch, copy and save videos and pictures with the usb cable. It works great and gives awesome audio and video.
Rooster* said:
I also get the same distorted video and a buzzing-hum that drowns out the audio with my 3.5 to RCA/AV cable. I have tried both tv out settings on the phone and swapping the red and yellow ends of the cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here.
I just ordered an RCA out cable and am really excited to get it. Even thought it isn't HD it will still be really nice to do.
I was surprised with how good the quality is. I use a cable that came with my Zune dock. It matches correctly to the inputs. My phone looked much better than the Zune did using the same cables.
The audio was great, and the video was as others said VHS quality. Definately watchable. I will say the landscape quality was much better than the portrait quality. On my HDTV I want to say it wasn't full screen, but using the zoom in the TV menu it became full screen, correct proportion.
I agree that Samsung leaving out HDMI support is bad, and disappointing after they told everyone a micro-usb to HDMI cable would fix that, then changed their minds.
This is a problem I won't trouble myself with much longer, I plan on getting an Atrix when they come out.
Sent from my SGH-I897 using XDA App
SM Galaxy S Captivate I896 running CM7: 3.5 mm to AV out?
Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows whether or not I can use the 3.5 MM to AV out option with a Captivate I896 that has been modded with Cyanogen Mod 7.
I don't seem to have the TV out option in my display settings.
Canadacorps said:
Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows whether or not I can use the 3.5 MM to AV out option with a Captivate I896 that has been modded with Cyanogen Mod 7.
I don't seem to have the TV out option in my display settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As far as I know it's not (yet) supported by cm7. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Sent from my Captivate
Rooster* said:
I also get the same distorted video and a buzzing-hum that drowns out the audio with my 3.5 to RCA/AV cable. I have tried both tv out settings on the phone and swapping the red and yellow ends of the cable. I can, however, use my Play Station 3 to watch, copy and save videos and pictures with the usb cable. It works great and gives awesome audio and video.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interested in the whole PS3 thing. How do hook up phone to PS3? Headphone jack to USB or a way to go micro-usb to USB?
Canadacorps said:
Hi everyone, I am wondering if anyone knows whether or not I can use the 3.5 MM to AV out option with a Captivate I896 that has been modded with Cyanogen Mod 7.
I don't seem to have the TV out option in my display settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Curti.nogg is correct, unfortunately :-( TV-out is not yet supported with CM7. Maybe if enough people talk about the devs will look into it...
RTBee said:
Interested in the whole PS3 thing. How do hook up phone to PS3? Headphone jack to USB or a way to go micro-usb to USB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just use the usb cable that came with the phone or any other micro usb to usb 2.0 cable. Just write folders on your phone's sd card named PHOTO, MUSIC and VIDEO. Put your photos, music and/or video into the corresponding folders. Plug the phone to the PS3 via usb cable. Turn on usb debugging on the phone. Now look on the PS3 in PHOTO, MUSIC or VIDEO for USB MEDIA STORAGE. There will be all your stuff. You can copy back and forth or just play it on the tv or sound system.
Sorry it took so long to answer, I totally forgot all about this thread.
My Chromecast is plugged into an HDMI input on my home theater receiver (Yamaha RX-V673) and powered externally from the wall. The HDMI output goes to my TV (6-yr old Samsung LNT4042H). I am streaming a browser tab (playing Grooveshark audio) to my home theater. Everything works fine, but I don't want to leave my TV on since I'm only listening to music. But when I turn the TV off, the audio stops too. Very perplexing, I'm not even sure whether or not to blame the Chromecast or the receiver, but I'm leaning toward the former (still no clue how to fix it though).
Any ideas? Thanks!
Weird. Dotés the TV INPUT to the hometheater ?
Sent from my X506-3G using xda app-developers app
grosmouton said:
Weird. Dotés the TV INPUT to the hometheater ?
Sent from my X506-3G using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. Weirder still, if the TV is already off when I start casting, it will cast successfully for a little while, but eventually the audio will cut out. If I then turn TV on, audio will come back.
The111 said:
My Chromecast is plugged into an HDMI input on my home theater receiver (Yamaha RX-V673) and powered externally from the wall. The HDMI output goes to my TV (6-yr old Samsung LNT4042H). I am streaming a browser tab (playing Grooveshark audio) to my home theater. Everything works fine, but I don't want to leave my TV on since I'm only listening to music. But when I turn the TV off, the audio stops too. Very perplexing, I'm not even sure whether or not to blame the Chromecast or the receiver, but I'm leaning toward the former (still no clue how to fix it though).
Any ideas? Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have the USB plugged into the TV??
Sent from my Eclipsed Galaxy S4
mjdavis871 said:
Do you have the USB plugged into the TV??
Sent from my Eclipsed Galaxy S4
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Click to collapse
Nope, powered externally from wall as mentioned in OP. Although admittedly I did add that in an edit so even though you quoted it, perhaps you read before I added it. :angel:
Another weird observation... if I put my TV to another input, it works fine. This is almost a perfect workaround since if I put TV to a dead input, it is almost as good as being powered off. Not quite though.
The111 said:
Nope, powered externally from wall as mentioned in OP. Although admittedly I did add that in an edit so even though you quoted it, perhaps you read before I added it. :angel:
Another weird observation... if I put my TV to another input, it works fine. This is almost a perfect workaround since if I put TV to a dead input, it is almost as good as being powered off. Not quite though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sounds like either your receiver is "noticing" that the TV is off and going into some power save or something (check for input detection or options on a particular input), or your TV is doing the audio decode and feeding it back to your receiver via Audio Return Channel (ARC).
The latter is less likely simply because you get some audio at the start when the TV is off.
I tried looking in your receiver's manual, but it seems pretty complex (and powerful).
This page will let you download the manual without registering for a Yamaha account:
http://download.yamaha.com/search/product/?category_id1=16445&product_id=1645661
mjdavis871 said:
Do you have the USB plugged into the TV??
Sent from my Eclipsed Galaxy S4
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Click to collapse
bhiga said:
Sounds like either your receiver is "noticing" that the TV is off and going into some power save or something (check for input detection or options on a particular input), or your TV is doing the audio decode and feeding it back to your receiver via Audio Return Channel (ARC).
The latter is less likely simply because you get some audio at the start when the TV is off.
I tried looking in your receiver's manual, but it seems pretty complex (and powerful).
This page will let you download the manual without registering for a Yamaha account:
http://download.yamaha.com/search/product/?category_id1=16445&product_id=1645661
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does seem to be the receiver at fault, since I've tested and it happens with other HDMI sources. Went through the entire manual and tried changing every option that seemed like it might be related... no luck. Will continue my search elsewhere since this does not seem to be Chromecast related. Thanks anyway. :good:
The111 said:
It does seem to be the receiver at fault, since I've tested and it happens with other HDMI sources. Went through the entire manual and tried changing every option that seemed like it might be related... no luck. Will continue my search elsewhere since this does not seem to be Chromecast related. Thanks anyway. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Probably something that can keep the HDMI connection alive, like Dr. HDMI or HDMI Detective might work, though I'd see about borrowing or trying one before spending money on it if possible.
Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
bhiga said:
Probably something that can keep the HDMI connection alive, like Dr. HDMI or HDMI Detective might work, though I'd see about borrowing or trying one before spending money on it if possible.
Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe that would work, but so does the complete opposite (killing the connection 100%). I've found that if I totally unplug my TV, then it works fine. The problem is that when the TV is "off" it is actually in standby mode which must still draw some power, and the receiver is aware of this via the HDMI connection, and for some dumb reason chooses to stop the audio stream because of it. If I unplug the TV, then the receiver loses awareness of it entirely and decides to play the audio again. Very stupid, but solvable for $10:
www.amazon.com/Woods-Extension-Switch-Remote-15-Feet/dp/B000KKND86/
I currently manually push the TV power button to turn it off... now I just have to use that button instead to totally cut it off from power.
I believe the receiver is to blame... but easier to spend $10 than try to make Yamaha fix a problem.
The111 said:
If I unplug the TV, then the receiver loses awareness of it entirely and decides to play the audio again. Very stupid, but solvable for $10:
www.amazon.com/Woods-Extension-Switch-Remote-15-Feet/dp/B000KKND86/
I currently manually push the TV power button to turn it off... now I just have to use that button instead to totally cut it off from power.
I believe the receiver is to blame... but easier to spend $10 than try to make Yamaha fix a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find an IR-triggered power cut off and you have a learning remote, you may be able to teach one of your remote buttons the signal and avoid getting up (yeah, I'm lazy).
Reminds me of the joke "if you lend someone $20 and never see them again, it might be $20 well spent."
Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
This is a very LONG SHOT and most likely NOT the problem...
But with most Amp to TV setups the Amp requires the TV to be on to get it's HDCP validation as the amp merely acts as a passthrough device.
Like I said it is a longshot but it is possible that some services may require HDCP to operate....
More likely though it is CEC sending a shutdown signal to the amp.
Or the Amp is timing out because it believes the Chromecast is a Video device and requires a monitor regardless of the fact that the Chromecast can do Audio Only as well.
The Amp itself really has no clue what is plugged into it...All it knows is HDMI gets sent to a Monitor and in your case it doesn't have a destination so shuts itself off.
Asphyx said:
The Amp itself really has no clue what is plugged into it...All it knows is HDMI gets sent to a Monitor and in your case it doesn't have a destination so shuts itself off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The fact that totally cutting the power to the TV (at the wall) fixes everything would seem to disprove that statement (and the earlier one that HDCP from the TV might be required for it to work). But I really don't know for sure.
It could *possibly* be HDMI CEC messing with it.
death2all110 said:
It could *possibly* be HDMI CEC messing with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep!
Because Pulling the plug means no CEC command gets sent!
Thats what it is!
Asphyx said:
death2all110 said:
It could *possibly* be HDMI CEC messing with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep!
Because Pulling the plug means no CEC command gets sent!
Thats what it is!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. This CEC is new to me. I wonder how long it's been around... my TV (and the connecting cable) is from 2007.
No options in TV or Receiver anywhere to disable it, although the receiver specs do say that it has CEC. If it is CEC causing my issue, I wonder if something like this might help?
http://www.pulse-eight.com/store/products/110-cec-less-hdmi-cable.aspx
Of course it's only a foot long so I'd need a F-F connector to tack it onto the end of my existing cable.
The111 said:
Interesting. This CEC is new to me. I wonder how long it's been around... my TV (and the connecting cable) is from 2007.
No options in TV or Receiver anywhere to disable it, although the receiver specs do say that it has CEC. If it is CEC causing my issue, I wonder if something like this might help?
http://www.pulse-eight.com/store/products/110-cec-less-hdmi-cable.aspx
Of course it's only a foot long so I'd need a F-F connector to tack it onto the end of my existing cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
CEC = Consumer Electronic Control
It's meant to help with the IR control and switching of inputs on Consumer devices
It was Introduced with the HDMI 1.2a Spec and expanded when HDMI 1.3 came out.
It's basically a control network for all the devices in a Home Entertainment system. Your supposed to be able to use one Remote to control everything....Works in Theory but most people have no clue how to get it to work! LOL
If you set your TV to your TUNER it should tell the Amp to switch to the Optical TV input automatically. And when you select BlueRay that goes through the amp the Amp should switch to that input and automatically change the input on the TV to see the Amp.
That Cable probably lifts pin 13 from connecting (isn't wired) which would take a particular device off the CEC Network.
But I would check both the Amp and TV settings first because by adding that cable you will have to switch inputs if you use the tuner on the TV and not just a set top box.If everything you own and watch goes through the amp the cable won't cost you any functionality other than TV remote working to change volume on the amp.
EDIT I don't suggest getting a Female to Female connector to barrel two cables together...
Better to get an extension HDMI cable that has a Female to Male cause every connector and connection can add noise and kill signal quality.
I have a opposite problem, chromecast keeps turning my TV on My Chromecast is connected to my Yamaha RX-A830 and I have a Samsung E8000 with 2013 Evolution kit. Every time I start playback on Chromecast, the TV is turned on. If I turn the TV off, the playback continues, but after some time (seems random to me) it turns the TV on again. Maybe that's when the playback stops for you? Because your TV does not support CEC and Chromecast thinks that there is no need to play anymore?
poisike said:
I have a opposite problem, chromecast keeps turning my TV on My Chromecast is connected to my Yamaha RX-A830 and I have a Samsung E8000 with 2013 Evolution kit. Every time I start playback on Chromecast, the TV is turned on. If I turn the TV off, the playback continues, but after some time (seems random to me) it turns the TV on again. Maybe that's when the playback stops for you? Because your TV does not support CEC and Chromecast thinks that there is no need to play anymore?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I've ruled out the Chromecast, since it happens with Wii U in the same way. But it is still possible it could be as you describe, and the exact same thing is happening with the Wii U too.
poisike said:
I have a opposite problem, chromecast keeps turning my TV on My Chromecast is connected to my Yamaha RX-A830 and I have a Samsung E8000 with 2013 Evolution kit. Every time I start playback on Chromecast, the TV is turned on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's how it's supposed to work.
If you don't want the TV turning on, you'll need to disable CEC on your TV, or if it has an option, disallow CEC power on.
poisike said:
Because your TV does not support CEC and Chromecast thinks that there is no need to play anymore?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Chromecast doesn't care. It's still playing as turning the TV back on results in audio.
Really sounds like Yamaha thought it would be smart for the receiver to automatically switch off if the attached display is turned off.
My Sony sound bar has an auto-off feature too that has the annoying feature of turning off if I have my TiVo paused too long, so I turned off the sound bar's auto off and turned on my TV's option to turn off attached devices when powering off.
Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
Wii U does not support CEC.
My TV CEC is on and Power sync is disabled. Yet still Chromecast turns it on...
Yamaha receivers turn off when they get CEC command to do so. My Chromecast has never turned my Yamaha receiver off. I have Yamaha set to HDMI control "On" and Standby sync "Auto" which should accept CEC power down command only when the current source sends it.