Related
I have unlimited data, but have it set up to disconnect after 5 minutes w/o use, for battery life. I HATE it when it pops up saying connecting, every 30 minutes to update Email, weather and such. It always pops up on top of all other programs. I have searched all over and have not found the solution. Any help is appreciated. If I knew what the file was called I would move it that way it wouldn't work, as long as that doesn't cause another problem. Thanks, Kevin
Hey brother. I'll answer before someone flames you. Look here:
I went to google.com
typed in the search box " Disable connection bubble" without the quotes and got this link
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=334718
Tip** anytime you want to look for something for your phone on google attach Kaiser at the end of it. It'll give you links that take you to this site.
Example: Free Games Kaiser
uuuummmmmm..... yea.......... Sounds and notifications. Was that hard or WHAT?
As always thanks for the support. I typed pop up and came up with nothing. I am not the type that asks before looking for the answers myself. I will look at that thread, thank you. XDA is a great forum, it just sucks that some people like to be sarcastic and rude sometimes. I guess it was a typical Monday for everyone else too. Kevin
I've used this option too. Works well.
I get a related pop up which appears to have no 'sound & notification' category. Using Tomtom or Co-pilot, if it uses GPRS to get the latest traffic info, and due to reception conditions, loses its connectivity, I get a pop-up which says there is no dial-up connection and provides 'settings' and 'dismiss' buttons. I'm guessing the handset would attempt dialing a number due to the lack of GPRS connectivity. I haven't been able to find a way of telling the handset to ignore this condition so it doesn't pop-up in the middle of Tomtom and Co-Pilot. Any ideas how to resolve this?
Thanks
Mike
I have been searching for a looooong time for this but no one seemed to have this issue. mtcs, you're the only person who has brought up this issue, so let's persue it. The "Unable to connect" bubble is most annoying when you're navigating and the navigator window pauses unless you press the button dismiss. Very difficult and dangerous when you're driving!!!
Does anyone have a fix?
As the last two stated, the pop up bubble is very annoying when using Navigation software. Sounds and Notifications does work for the pop up bubble that appears while trying to connect to data, but doesnt appear to help the other. Thanks for the help. Kevin
mtcs said:
I've used this option too. Works well.
I get a related pop up which appears to have no 'sound & notification' category. Using Tomtom or Co-pilot, if it uses GPRS to get the latest traffic info, and due to reception conditions, loses its connectivity, I get a pop-up which says there is no dial-up connection and provides 'settings' and 'dismiss' buttons. I'm guessing the handset would attempt dialing a number due to the lack of GPRS connectivity. I haven't been able to find a way of telling the handset to ignore this condition so it doesn't pop-up in the middle of Tomtom and Co-Pilot. Any ideas how to resolve this?
Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I came looking for this very thing. Hoping someone knows the solution!
A few days ago I ran into a problem. My wifi wasn't connected when I turned on my tab 8.9. When I try to connect to my own network, and get into the settings page, the option 'ok' is greyed out. This means that I can only 'cancel', and in that way not connect to my own network anymore. The same thing happens when I try to connect to another network. My device is not rooted, running 3.2, and it is running the most recent firmware. Restarting the device didn't solve it. Any thoughts on this one?
Bump, same problem, or at least similar.
Android Version 3.2
Kernal Version 2.6.36.3 ([email protected] #1)
Build Number HTJ85B
Wireless works on some networks and not others. B G N do not matter, it is random. Still running stock ROM, not rooted. I have tried reseting OS, no luck.
What it does it it finds the network, tries to connect to the network, fails, remembers the network, and the cycle starts over.
Hi guys,
do you get the 'Obtaining IP address' message when connecting? mine does that constantly on some networks, it gets stuck in a loop and simply will not connect. I've found out that this is due to the tab remembering an IP address it used to use and trying to re-use it every time it connects. That is of course not always possible and so it tries - fails - tries etc.
The way to fix this apparently is to delete the dhcp_list file which holds the remembered IP addresses, only issue is that I cannot find that file anywhere. I'm running AOSP Galaxian Soup on mine with motley kernel, my home wifi works ok (probably because the same IP address is available all the time), work wifi doesn't want to work at all.
Maybe one of the devs sees this and can shed a bit more light on whether the solution is correct or not.
Regards,
dsc.
I was eventually able to solve this in a very easy way. for one reason or another the tab only wanted to log in when the password contained a capital, so I changed the WPA preshared key to something that contained a capital and a number and it was working again. very strange, because it had been working perfectly for about two months before this problem occurred. hope this helps.
Hi,
I managed to fix it by selecting static IP. I've seen this suggested a couple of times but when using the tablet in horizontal position I could see the static/dynami selection. Turns out you have to rotate the table to vertical position to see it.
Regards,
dsc.
Thanks for the discussion. my main problem is that i can't set a static at my work network. it will work at home, but i NEED it to work at both, otherwise it does me no good. I will keep banging my head against.
I will check back to see if smarter people come up with a solution, and if i come up with somthing i will post.
Hi guys,
do you get the 'Obtaining IP address' message when connecting? mine does that constantly on some networks, it gets stuck in a loop and simply will not connect. I've found out that this is due to the tab remembering an IP address it used to use and trying to re-use it every time it connects. That is of course not always possible and so it tries - fails - tries etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is my problem exactly.
Hi,
not sure if you've seen this (I think the original solution comes from here anyway):
[tried posting an url but it was blocked, try googling:
'Tab cannot get IP address for WiFi problem + recs'
and scroll down to zakaria's post]
Some people suggest trying static, even if it fails it might delete the previously stored IP address that the Tab is trying to connect with and get a new one which should work. What I did was connected to the Wifi with my laptop, checked the IP/DNS details and after slight mods used it on the Tab. I did try setting the static to something roughly correct, connecting and reverting back to dynamic, but it wouldn't have it
Regards,
dsc.
Banderdragon said:
Thanks for the discussion. my main problem is that i can't set a static at my work network. it will work at home, but i NEED it to work at both, otherwise it does me no good. I will keep banging my head against.
I will check back to see if smarter people come up with a solution, and if i come up with somthing i will post.
This is my problem exactly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you checked with your work network whether or not it needs ca certificate?
or you could try to download wifi ace (advanced config editor) from the playstore, and set the settings from there
Hi everybody,
I'm a very interested reader of all the Samsung Ativ - WP8 unlocking/rooting/registry hacking-threads and now am wondering about something:
Will it somehow be possible (or is it already?) to directly change specific phone settings (such as: Bluetooth switch, Airplane Mode switch etc.) through an app?
For an example, i would like to program a NFC-tag to turn on Airplane Mode on the phone; currently it is only possible (due to the os-restrictions) to make the NFC-tag enter the Airplane Mode-settings, but not the switch itself.. Can it maybe be done with a registry entry?
Thanks for your help, I very much appreciate it!
Keep up the awesome work!
Good question. I can look into the Settings apps themselves and see if I can find out how to flip their switch. However, it's probably not a simple registry value.
GoodDayToDie said:
Good question. I can look into the Settings apps themselves and see if I can find out how to flip their switch. However, it's probably not a simple registry value.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will be interesting to see what you come up with...
My biggest pet peeve about WP (aside from the lack of a native GMail client and tiles that are unable to refresh themselves rendering battery level tiles irrelevant) is that it takes me about 20 clicks to do what should take 5... At my place of work we have restricted WiFi (only port 80 and 443, so WiFi calling is a no go), and no signal in the building.... So, when I get to work: Turn WiFi on, turn data off, turn WiFi Calling off, turn Bluetooth off. When I leave work I turn WiFi off, data on. When I get home, I turn WiFi on, data off, WiFi calling on, Bluetooth on.
It's a pain in the ass to go into individual settings menus for each of those.
There's really no point to turning Bluetooth off; the power it requires when not connected is trivial. Even WiFi draws very little when inactive.
Also, I conclude that your job sucks... but yeah, if I can get the toggle controls I will.
It drains massively when BT is in use... WiFi I'm assuming drains because of WiFi calling... I did shorten the steps... Airplane mode on, WiFi on, WiFi calling off... ?
It will drain in a few hours if I leave thing enabled. On android it was due to the IMS connection retrying constantly, and the almost zero cell connection trying to stay registered on the network. Definitely a PITA.
Yeah, Airplane Mode is better than data off if you can't even get enough signal for calls or SMS, because that will in fact drain the battery faster.
I never bothered to disable BlueTooth since the first time I enabled it, and have seen no change in the battery life. It really does appear to be inconsequential, although I suppose I didn't make a thorough study.
...any news?
All I could find is the on/off switch for the service itself, but it doesn't seem to be practical, since I think that the phone has to be restarted every time...
I'm talking about the path HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\services\, where you can choose the value for the "Start" key of the services, whereas the values 1 to 4 stand for:
Code:
Start REG_DWORD Start constant
Specifies the starting values for the service as follows:
START TYPE LOADER MEANING
0x0 Kernel Represents a part of the
(Boot) driver stack for the boot
(startup) volume and must
therefore be loaded by the
Boot Loader.
0x1 I/O Represents a driver to be loaded
(System) subsystem at Kernel initialization.
0x2 Service To be loaded or started
(Auto load) Control automatically for all startups,
Manager regardless of service type.
0x3 Service Available, regardless of type,
(Load on Control but will not be started until
demand) Manager the user starts it (for example,
by using the Devices icon in
Control Panel).
0x4 Service NOT TO BE STARTED UNDER ANY
(disabled) Control CONDITIONS.
Manager
Don't know if this is anything new at all, but I tested it with the Gyro Sensor (changed the Start Value from 3 to 4) and after reboot the Sensor Emitter-App didn't find it anymore; turned back to Value 3 and after reboot it worked again!
That's a cool find, but probably not super-useful to this purpose; it might let us make a "services.msc"-like app for the phone, at least to control startup and such, but actually starting and stopping the services requires something else again.
Also, another problem I was facing is the fact that every time the phone interacts with a NFC-tag there is a popup asking if the action should really be performed. This is good for some of the cases, but for the Airplane-mode automatic switch it seems a pain to confirm each time you want to switch - as the whole idea behind it was to change it automatically.
Searching for a possible solution for this problem i found this:
Google: search for "that-damn-nfc-alert-after-tapping-tag", first result
(as I am a new user I still can't post links directly)
Code:
//-------------------------WRITING
var dataWriter = new Windows.Storage.Streams.DataWriter();
dataWriter.WriteString("dummy");
//messageType is the key
publishMessageId = mDevice.PublishBinaryMessage("Windows:WriteTag.Text",
dataWriter.DetachBuffer(),
messageTransmitted);
//my MessageTransmittedHandler invokes the StopPublishingMessage(long) method
//-------------------------READING
mDevice.SubscribeForMessage("Windows.Text",
(device, message) =>
{
//do Work
});
Do you think that once we know how the Settings-App flips the switches it would be possible to create a command which doesn't require confirmation? Or would it be necessary to have an app already running in order to perform that switch automatically?
Thanks a lot!
Today I saw the registry keys at HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Settings\{1DEF9B7D-2322-40eb-A007-16A75D5CDA62}\ which indicate some specific dll and app-locations for the Airplane Mode:
Code:
Values Type Size Data
String 28 Airplane Mode
Title String 82 @\windows\system32\Settings3Res.dll,-206
Type Integer 4 1
Location String 102 app://5B04B775-356B-4AA0-AAF8-6491FFEA5621/Default
Plugin String 78 {09c51652-2cbc-49d5-883e-20606f9a47bd}
I tried to reach it with Windows.System.Launcher.LaunchUriAsync(new Uri("app://5B04B775-356B-4AA0-AAF8-6491FFEA5621/Default", UriKind.Absolute)); but had no success. There is no error or anything, nothing happens.
Am I going in the wrong direction with this?
Well, at best that would only let you launch the Airplane Mode view, which is already possible in other ways (and I don't think your method works anyhow, because apps can't directly launch other apps unless they have special privileges).
Poking around in the registry is a good call, though. It may be worth looking at the permissions for that app and seeing what it can write to, although it's almost certainly going to be a special service endpoint rather than something convenient like registry value.
I see.. Couldn't the number "-206" be some kind of argument applied on the Settings3Res.dll? Since all settings (wifi, bluetooth, gps etc.) refer to that same dll but seem to have different apps (which I suppose are the pages with the switches).
No. It's an index into the stringtable. Settings3Res.dll is, as its name implies, a resource DLL; it contains no actual executable code.
Hi.
I started programming android app´s a couple of month ago using Android Studio. That´s why I do not know all the correct programming notation´s and just want to describe what I planning to do. Hopefully someone can give me a hint of how I should proceed.
I want to create an application witch connects a large number of “child”- devices (about 30) with one “parent” - device. In other word´s only the parent device is connected to all the others and there should be no connection between the “child” - devices.
The connection should be able to transfer simple clicks e.g. on the child-device-12 buttonA was clicked should be displayed on the parent-device screen. Furthermore the parent-device should be able to receive and store small text messages from all child-devices.
The problem I have is that i´m not sure which kind of connection I should use.
I know there is the…
… the Bluetooth connection which I can´t use because it is not possible to connect more than two devices.
… the P2P connection which is also not possible because of the same reason.
… the NFC connection which I also can´t use because of it´s short range.
… the wifi connection witch might be possible because all the approximately 31 devices will be in the same area at the moment of using the application.
… and the server/client connection witch also might be possible.
Right now I imagine something like a chat or gaming room which is hosted by the parent-device for a specified number of child-connection. In order to enter the room the parent device generates a key every time a new room is created. That key is given to all the child-device user´s so that they can enter the room.
Okay, I hope someone can help me find the best connectivity solution.
Greetings, Alex!
I recently bought a Verizon Note 9 (first Samsung phone) so I'm not well versed on things. I have noticed from time to time when I am not receiving carrier signal (still connected to wifi) my texts will start failing with the error "Invalid teleservice id".
After some digging I noticed that my phone number in "About Phone" was incorrectly set to an invalid number 1-265-000-000.
I have cleared all caches and reset all settings I can think of. This problems occurs on all SMS applications. So far I have tried: Google Messages; Samsung Messages; Verizon Messages+.
Where does the "About Phone" page get populated from?
My hunch is the internal number of the phone is getting set by some screwy logic and that is throwing off everything that relies on it.
Invalid teleservide id soulution found
I need people to test this solution to make sure it works across all devices as the error seems to affect all android devices under certain conditions. If you would like to read how I came to this solution to help me check my work or you are just interested please keep reading, If you just want the solution feel free to skip to the bottom paragraph beginning with SOLUTION. If you try this solution, which I actually believe to be a solution and not a hotfix, please respond with 3 pieces of information: 1) Did it work. 2) What Android device you use and the version of Android you are using and 3) Your ISP (Internet Service Provider).
This data is very important.
STORY:
So, last month I switched to Android for a couple of reasons after having used iPhones since the iPhone 5. The two most important things to me were being able to stream music using the LDAC Bluetooth codec and having a crack at Samsung Dex to see if I could avoid buying a laptop next year. I was immediately happy with these features that had been the impetus for switching, but then something unexpected happened: the thing that I have always taken for granted, i.e. my phone sending/receiving calls and texts, was incredibly unreliable on this phone (Galaxy S20 Ultra). After doing some googling and finding the official forums (there seem to be 2 devoted to this issue and I will post this both places) I found the incredibly disheartening ‘hotfix’ of disabling WiFi calling to be completely unnaceptable. Not only because I don’t actually get cell service in my apartment but because a $1400 flagship smartphone should certianly not have less functionality in any area that an iPod Touch circa a decade ago.
Normally I would just take my faulty device down to a Verizon store because although I am in IT I specialize in computers more than phones, however since we have been in isolation this began an approximately 20 hour saga via the phone over the span of May 25th to June 19th. After trying everything I could glean might work from google, and following every step that Verizon tech support asked me to try and actually convincing them to update the carrier settings on my account I was finally given the OK to get a replacement device. It is important to note at this point that I had only been searching this error for my model phone and mistakenly had the idea that it was an incredibly rare issue that was a problem with a select few devices.
So, you can imagine my complete and udder shock after getting the replacement phone, setting it up, and getting the Invalid Teleservice ID Error 4 on the second text message I tried to send on the device. It took me about an hour to really get my wits together because at this point I was trying to come to terms with the very possible reality that I was not going to be able to use my phone at home reliably because I don’t have good reception over WiFi. When my faculties returned, I resolved to read every post I could find on this issue.
What I found is that this problem has been around since certain people started installing Android 8 on their phones and that they have been trying to get Verizon to offer an actual solution since 2017. So here we are 3.5 years later and almost 4 generations of Android later and “the best network” has so far failed to offer any sort of real solution to this problem. However, from getting the error on my new phone and seeing that the error was effecting essentially every model device Verizon sells (that runs Android) gave me a key piece of data: the problem has nothing to do with the device.
After getting deeper and deeper into some forums I noticed that one person reported that this problem only occurs for them when they use an Xfinity WiFi hotspot. That was my lightbulb moment. I am also an Xfinity customer. I then started searching the problem from that perspective and found that most of the people reporting the error and mentioning their ISP were either Xfinity or Spectrum customers, and now I was starting to feel like I might be onto something.
In terms of IT, networking is my weakest area. Nevertheless I dove into some forums that have tried to approach this problem from a networking perspective and although a lot of it was over my head I started to suspect there was something about the firewall on Xfinity and Spectrum routers that is causing the problem. After 72 hours of exhaustive testing ( not only is 24 hours approximately my previous record for not having the error, but I used that time to send out as much information via text messaging as possible to try to cause the error) I am ready to posit a hypothesis as to what is actually causing the problem and post the solution that is currently working for me.
As I have noticed that the problem is most likely to crop up for me when I am using Dex and a physical keyboard and have tried to send many texts in quick succession, the idea came to me that somehow trying to send a large volume of data exacerbates a problem that Xfinity and Spectrum routers have reliably delivering packets in the right order and format over the internet to the Verizon network. So, this is what I decided to try, and it has now worked for approximately 84 hours straight and has performed flawlessly under stress testing (Spamming 500 word texts and hi res photos to multiple people in quick succession using copy/paste).
SOLUTION:
I’m sure many of you who play video games have used a function on your routers to get around NAT issues called the DMZ. The DMZ allows you to put a device using a specific IP address on your personal network outside of the firewall and connect it directly to the internet. For a device that exists on this network wirelessly there is a simple step you must take first. You must assign your device a static IP. If you go into your router settings you will likely find that all devices on your network are assigned IP addresses via a system called DHCP. This essentially means your device will probably have a new IP every time you leave the house and return, so we need to make it the same every time so that the DMZ will function the way we want it to. Every router is going to have a slightly different settings menu, but you should be able to find a tab that lists the CONNECTED DEVICES on your network. What you need to do is change your phone from being a DHCP connected device and assign it a STATIC IP address. Finding the option to do this may be harder than actually doing it, all you need to do when you find the option is change the connection type from DHCP to Static and pick and IP address that will work for you. My network uses 10.0.0.XX for the devices on my home network so I assigned my phone to 10.0.0.99. Then I placed the 10.0.0.99 in the DMZ. In my router menu, the DMZ is under ADVANCED SETTINGS and when you select the DMZ tab, simply enter the IP address you chose for your phone.
To recap:
1) Set your phone to a static IP
2) Put that IP in the DMZ
That’s it. A valid criticism of this solution is that your phone is less secure, however I would respond that the likelihood of your phone being hacked is much smaller that that of a PC and if this slightly loosened security really bothers you, just use a VPN. A VPN will keep you safe in a Starbucks on their free public WiFi and it can protect you here (I actually had a VPN when I got my device and originally I thought it was the cause of the Invalid Teleservice error). CAUTION: There has been a crop of predatory VPN services lately that provide working VPNs, but will charge you a ridiculous amount. I use NordVPN (I found a code on YouTube that gave me 70% off six devices on a 3 year plan, that ended up costing about $100) but there are plenty of good services that will allow you to connect to the internet via a VPN on one device for approximately $2-3 a month.
So please, try this and report back. This error has been the bane of my existence since switching to Android and it is completely unacceptable that Verizon has had literally years to do figure out a solution to this problem and yet they have not. My end goal is not to receive credit but to make sure that in the future Verizon Tech Support actually knows how to help people solve this problem, and their techs don’t take your calls and then look the problem up on google, proceeding to be completely transparent in terms of having no actual knowledge of this issue and literally reading the same forums I have already been over and suggesting the non-solutions posted there in order, i.e. turn off WiFi calling and if that doesn’t work turn off ‘Advanced Calling’.
REMEMBER: If this solution does not work for you, please double check that your changes the router you use have stuck. I have previously had routers that will for reasons I don’t understand change the DMZ domain or switch a device back to DHCP from static or simply fail to save your changes properly.
I await responses eagerly.
You need to take your device to your local high street retail branch of your cell provider and ask them to check your SMS/MMS settings
I would love to be able to actually go into a brick and mortar Verizon store but that's currently not possible in WA state. I had to have a tech walk me through checking those settings myself (after doing my own research as well) and had somebody at level 3 of tech support at Verizon manipulate my carrier settings. That's pretty much all I can do during the pandemic.
My solution is still working for me though, however 33 min after I put the same post on the official Verizon forum they closed the thread which had had regular posts over the last 3 years so now I'll never know if it works for anybody else. Additionally, there was somebody on the forum who approached the problem from SMS/MMS settings perspective and it had to do with deleting server settings and whatnot. It was so complicated that I doubt many end users could follow the same steps.
K_A_Beausoleil said:
I would love to be able to actually go into a brick and mortar Verizon store but that's currently not possible in WA state. I had to have a tech walk me through checking those settings myself (after doing my own research as well) and had somebody at level 3 of tech support at Verizon manipulate my carrier settings. That's pretty much all I can do during the pandemic.
My solution is still working for me though, however 33 min after I put the same post on the official Verizon forum they closed the thread which had had regular posts over the last 3 years so now I'll never know if it works for anybody else. Additionally, there was somebody on the forum who approached the problem from SMS/MMS settings perspective and it had to do with deleting server settings and whatnot. It was so complicated that I doubt many end users could follow the same steps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your efforts. I've had this same issue on my Note 9 for 2 years... Your solution did not work for me.
However, I found a solution this morning. My ISP is not Xfinity or Spectrum. But my network which is spread across a small community blocks some IPsec ports that are required for wifi calling. Enabling those ports on my router does not fix the problem since it is a network/modem setting that I don't have access to.
What does work is having a vpn profile that implements IKEv2/IPsec VPN tunnels on your Android device. I have a NordVPN subscription and downloaded the StrongSwan VPN client from the Play Store. This client only uses IPsec encryption. Using a NordVPN server that has this encryption with the StrongSwan VPN client has allowed me to bypass this network restriction and my wifi calling phone calls and texts go through just fine now.
Hoping this helps someone else...
---------- Post added at 04:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:05 PM ----------
hkjxda said:
Thanks for your efforts. I've had this same issue on my Note 9 for 2 years... Your solution did not work for me.
However, I found a solution this morning. My ISP is not Xfinity or Spectrum. But my network which is spread across a small community blocks some IPsec ports that are required for wifi calling. Enabling those ports on my router does not fix the problem since it is a network/modem setting that I don't have access to.
What does work is having a vpn profile that implements IKEv2/IPsec VPN tunnels on your Android device. I have a NordVPN subscription and downloaded the StrongSwan VPN client from the Play Store. This client only uses IPsec encryption. Using a NordVPN server that has this encryption with the StrongSwan VPN client has allowed me to bypass this network restriction and my wifi calling phone calls and texts go through just fine now.
Hoping this helps someone else...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scratch this... Wifi calling uses it's own IPsec VPN tunnel, VPN clients only encrypt internet traffic, not cell service. Back to square one...