I have the ambition to build a home made external battery pack for my HD2 . I'm not a electrical engineer, my knowledge on this is very basic. But, if I start to think, wouldn't it be just as easy as mounting 3 or 4 AA batteries in series, because USB is 5V? But then is the is the amperage enough?
Please give me some thoughts!
http://www.boxwave.com/products/batteryadapter/batteryadapterforminisync.htm
http://www.boxwave.com/products/batteryadapter/index.htm
I have the first one, but modded it so that the USB port is directly attached to the case (like the second one).
Haven't failed me yet; however it won't charge an iPod due to its unique USB circuitry
Yup, 4 AA rechargeable batteries would do it, I wouldn't try alkaline ones as that would give a good 6V.
Alright thanks after all. I think I'm not going to make it myself, because taking the risk of blowing my HD2 is one step too far now .
the biggest problem with external packs vs AC adaptor is that
1) most AA battery packs outputs to HD2 @ around 100ma reason being the voltage is too low.
2) i have tried that sanyo 5000ma USB battery pack which does around 400ma, it charges faster but it's actual power output is around 4v
the key is the higher the voltage, the faster it charges.
I have seen most 4AA battery packs are conected as 2x serial, 2x parrallel, which means if you are using 2500mah batteries, it's only [email protected]
http://www.boxwave.com/products/batteryadapter/batteryadapterforminisync.htm
this device is connected as such as i have it also.
I tried using sanyo eneloops, hd2 recharges @ 140ma
i tried 2800mah powerex, HD2 charges @ 110ma
i tried diposalble lithium, hd2 charges @ 350ma (measured at 3.3v )
4AA all connected in serial would be the most ideal. but it only stores very little power. 1.3v x4=5.2v but if your battery is 2500mah, then it's only [email protected]
the higher the voltage the faster it charges.
I am actually thinking of building a 8AA battery, to make it a [email protected] but 8AA batts aint light. but am sure it will charge the phone as fast as AC adaptor.
AC adaptor does around 5v -/+ 0.3v 850ma
I am thinking out making my own battery pack also. one that does 5.2v @ 2000ma so that it can charge the battery as fast as AC adaptor.
but the problem is li-ion chemistry dont really allow high discharge unless it's A123 batteries.
2nd is that nimh batts are capable of high discharge but they dont really store alot of power in terms of weight to power ratio.
nimh states 1.2v but is 1.3v at full charged. highest i have seen from my batts are 1.35v
li-ion states it's 3.7v but at full charge it's 4.1v, highest i have seen from my batts are 4.25v
the key is building a circuitry that ups the voltage to 5v and acts as a voltage stabilizer aka mosfet and capacitor. but P=IV and considering the power loss from voltage conversion.
sigh.... why cant anyone build a extended battery the size of iphone's external battery slot-in. i dont mind if the phone is thicker. but rather than a hump in the middle of the phone, they can always make the battery the size of the phone. kind of like battery+case type.
the thing about battery ratings are,
eg, rechargeable batteries states 1.2v, that is actually the MINIMAL voltage.
same goes for akaline. 1.5v @ minimal.
li-ion 3.7v MINIMAL.
lithium 1.6V minimal , i have one batt at measures as high as 1.77v !
all devices have a wide range input. for reasons
1) AC adaptor rates @ 5v but it need tolerance cuz it fluctrates from 4.6-5.4v
2) batteries start high, ends low, but voltage curve is very stable.
There are more than enough commercial, regulated packs either for AA batteries or with integrated li-ion batteries, for many budgets, to lose time making one yourself IMO.
Thanks for your story .
Please keep me posted if you are going to try for yourself!
purezerg said:
the biggest problem with external packs vs AC adaptor is that
1) most AA battery packs outputs to HD2 @ around 100ma reason being the voltage is too low.
2) i have tried that sanyo 5000ma USB battery pack which does around 400ma, it charges faster but it's actual power output is around 4v
the key is the higher the voltage, the faster it charges.
I have seen most 4AA battery packs are conected as 2x serial, 2x parrallel, which means if you are using 2500mah batteries, it's only [email protected]
http://www.boxwave.com/products/batteryadapter/batteryadapterforminisync.htm
this device is connected as such as i have it also.
I tried using sanyo eneloops, hd2 recharges @ 140ma
i tried 2800mah powerex, HD2 charges @ 110ma
i tried diposalble lithium, hd2 charges @ 350ma (measured at 3.3v )
4AA all connected in serial would be the most ideal. but it only stores very little power. 1.3v x4=5.2v but if your battery is 2500mah, then it's only [email protected]
the higher the voltage the faster it charges.
I am actually thinking of building a 8AA battery, to make it a [email protected] but 8AA batts aint light. but am sure it will charge the phone as fast as AC adaptor.
AC adaptor does around 5v -/+ 0.3v 850ma
I am thinking out making my own battery pack also. one that does 5.2v @ 2000ma so that it can charge the battery as fast as AC adaptor.
but the problem is li-ion chemistry dont really allow high discharge unless it's A123 batteries.
2nd is that nimh batts are capable of high discharge but they dont really store alot of power in terms of weight to power ratio.
nimh states 1.2v but is 1.3v at full charged. highest i have seen from my batts are 1.35v
li-ion states it's 3.7v but at full charge it's 4.1v, highest i have seen from my batts are 4.25v
the key is building a circuitry that ups the voltage to 5v and acts as a voltage stabilizer aka mosfet and capacitor. but P=IV and considering the power loss from voltage conversion.
sigh.... why cant anyone build a extended battery the size of iphone's external battery slot-in. i dont mind if the phone is thicker. but rather than a hump in the middle of the phone, they can always make the battery the size of the phone. kind of like battery+case type.
the thing about battery ratings are,
eg, rechargeable batteries states 1.2v, that is actually the MINIMAL voltage.
same goes for akaline. 1.5v @ minimal.
li-ion 3.7v MINIMAL.
lithium 1.6V minimal , i have one batt at measures as high as 1.77v !
all devices have a wide range input. for reasons
1) AC adaptor rates @ 5v but it need tolerance cuz it fluctrates from 4.6-5.4v
2) batteries start high, ends low, but voltage curve is very stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not only a matter of saving time, it's just nice to make your own. It gives pleasure . And some excitement for the risk of blowing an expensive phone .
kilrah said:
There are more than enough commercial, regulated packs either for AA batteries or with integrated li-ion batteries, for many budgets, to lose time making one yourself IMO.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GeitjeG said:
It's not only a matter of saving time, it's just nice to make your own. It gives pleasure . And some excitement for the risk of blowing an expensive phone .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If youre into making it yourself,
there's this site:
http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/
there are detailed instructions and design schematics
+ the parts list.
It would be more complex than using a simple 4 AA battery case connected to a usb plug, but considering that without a voltage regulator wou would be limited to rechargable batteries (since 4 regular AAs would give too high voltage), and considering saving the weight and size of 2 more AAs . . .
Anyway -
give it a look.
(PS - I found this site some time ago, I do not own it, and do not have any connection to it)
Som30ne said:
If youre into making it yourself,
there's this site:
http://www.ladyada.net/make/mintyboost/
there are detailed instructions and design schematics
+ the parts list.
It would be more complex than using a simple 4 AA battery case connected to a usb plug, but considering that without a voltage regulator wou would be limited to rechargable batteries (since 4 regular AAs would give too high voltage), and considering saving the weight and size of 2 more AAs . . .
Anyway -
give it a look.
(PS - I found this site some time ago, I do not own it, and do not have any connection to it)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using 4NiMh rechargeables giving 2800mAh in a clear AA case with USB soldered onto the case terminals with a flying lead and its fine.
"Turns out some devices don't like being charged with a battery pack, usually devices that require special drivers to charge. "
I just cross checked with my electrical enginner friend
he said that different devices hvae different tolerance.
eg, some devices only accept 4.95-5.05v
there is a circuit in all USB devices to stablise the voltage. to suppress/reduce if it's too high, but nothing if it's too low.
purezerg said:
"Turns out some devices don't like being charged with a battery pack, usually devices that require special drivers to charge. "
I just cross checked with my electrical enginner friend
he said that different devices hvae different tolerance.
eg, some devices only accept 4.95-5.05v
there is a circuit in all USB devices to stablise the voltage. to suppress/reduce if it's too high, but nothing if it's too low.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I heard no such thing.
I did see a courious behaviour in some devices,
that needed some voltage on one of the data pins as well in order to start charging.
Connecting these devices to a power supply that fed the power wires only, and didnt put anything on any of the data wires did not charge the devices.
hi mates
why dont you just use 10 recharg.batteries and the circuitry of the original HTC HD2 car charger ? it works like butter&honey for me : )
Right guys, thanks for the input.
After I think it's not worth the risk to build a pack completely myself.
The 3 best options that sound easy and safe to me are:
- Using the car charger circuitry with 10 eek rechargable battteries.
- Buying a cheap one on internet
- Building one using a tried tutorial
GeitjeG said:
Right guys, thanks for the input.
After I think it's not worth the risk to build a pack completely myself.
The 3 best options that sound easy and safe to me are:
- Using the car charger circuitry with 10 eek rechargable battteries.
- Buying a cheap one on internet
- Building one using a tried tutorial
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Choice #1 is obivously undesirable.
Choice #2: Internet ones usually don't have voltage and current protection. For example, the boxwave one I linked to is just a simple charge circuit with no built-in resistors and such.
Choice #3: I would suggest using Mintyboost: http://www.instructables.com/id/MintyBoost!---Small-battery-powered-USB-charger/
purezerg said:
...4AA all connected in serial would be the most ideal. but it only stores very little power. 1.3v x4=5.2v but if your battery is 2500mah, then it's only [email protected]
the higher the voltage the faster it charges. ....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AFAIK, the charging speed of the device is a function of current, not voltage. A source that outputs at a maximum of 500mA will charge a device twice as slow as a source that outputs at a maximum of 1A, if it is assumed that the device can take in charge at a current of 1A
This tutorial looks really nice and seems well thought out...!
...
felixdd said:
Choice #3: I would suggest using Mintyboost: http://www.instructables.com/id/MintyBoost!---Small-battery-powered-USB-charger/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
...
Related
I've bought this X1 car windscreen holder & charger off ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200317246131
The holder itself is very good for the price, but I'm a bit nervous about using the charger as it's not genuine SE.
It is CE marked, but it says its output is 5.0V=2A, whereas the output of my SE wall charger is 5.0V=700mA.
Is it safe to use?
you should be good. its the voltage rating that is important and not the so much as the amps.
i wish i can give you the technical as to why right now but i just cant remember all the details. i think your phone can draw in or pull in its rated amps. if your phone charger that you bought is rated at 2 amps, your phone can only draw in its max rated amps (700ma) and your charge time will be lower than that of a charger rated at 5 volts, 500ma.
if you did have a charger that was rated at 5 volts, 500ma, then your phone can draw in only the max that the charger can put out and will tend to overwork the charger thats rated lower and have a longer charge time.
Thanks for your reply
So even though the charger can supply up to 2A, the phone will only take the 700mA it needs?
Just out of curiosity, can anyone with a genuine SE car charger tell me what output it supplies?
BUT, charging that fast isn't the best thing to do for your batterly lifetime. Slower charging == longer battery life.
Though, same goes for the normal wall socket charger from SE.
Legaspi is right, the phone will only pull as many amps as it needs and can take, no more.
Well, I'll only be using it occasionally when I'm at a few car shows over summer. So it should be safe enough.
Cheers guys
amps are not pushed but drawn
amps is the max the charger can provide
before it get pressured and lover the volts
you could use a 5volt 10000MegaAmp charger
and the device would only draw the amps the device
was made to draw all the rest of the amps would stay
at your electricity company
ohms law state Amps == volts / residence
Rudegar said:
amps are not pushed but drawn
ohms law state Amps == volts / residence
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In other English:
P = VI, where
P = Power of device (watts) and is fixed
V = Voltage used by device (volts) and is fixed
I = Current (amps) and is decided by P/V (a fixed ratio)
So the device cannot draw more current than the fixed ratio. It may draw less current if the charger cannot supply the highest amount, but then as in one of the above posts, it simply takes longer to recharge.
With these devices, milliWatts/miliAmps are the scale, 5V is generally the fixed Potential Difference.
Used in a vehicle, the device is generally both drawing and expending energy (ie. charging and running say, GPS) simultaneously. This in/out situation when prolonged is the cause of the observed overheating with the original X1 battery.
i use a HTC car charger with my SEX1, it works flawlessly
I handmade two 12->5V converters (first with LM7805, second - with LM2678 regulator).
Both are OK, but I'm thinking about two stage regulation with radiators (LM7809/7805) or 5W DC2DC converter now...
Cheap car $5 5V USB converters usually use LM7805 without any radiators. So 500mA+ are hardly achievable.
hello , i just bought an genuine htc car charger for my xperia with the following carac : 5V - 2A
so don't worry , it's normal to have a more powerfull charger because when you will use X1 like GPS, he will need more power than a simple charge
Hi guys,
first of all, thank you for the great forum, with lots of useful information and application for my xperia.
I would kindly ask someone with an original car charger (CLA-70) to post its specifications here (volts, amps output).
I have a car (usb) charger from a BT GPS device that has a 5V,1000 mA output and I am not sure if it will suit my xperia. I need the car charger for use of navigation software, which consumes a lot of battery power.
Thank you for any replay!
i believe it's safe to use. I have a handmade 12-to-5V converter with 3000mA possible output and for over two months have no problems with X1i.
But Xperia will not use all your 1000mA. About a half or so at maximum. No 15 minutes charge possible...
I have done in many times. It is safe.
Don't worry!
I use the Kensington 4-in-1 car charger for iPod.
http://us.kensington.com/html/11205.html
Ratings are 5V and 500mA. It manages to charge my iPod, my X1, and my Plantronics Voyager 510 Bluetooth headset. Same charger, three cables, one Case Logic pocket, and everything becomes under your control!
ianl8888 said:
In other English:
P = VI, where
P = Power of device (watts) and is fixed
V = Voltage used by device (volts) and is fixed
I = Current (amps) and is decided by P/V (a fixed ratio)
So the device cannot draw more current than the fixed ratio. It may draw less current if the charger cannot supply the highest amount, but then as in one of the above posts, it simply takes longer to recharge.
With these devices, milliWatts/miliAmps are the scale, 5V is generally the fixed Potential Difference.
Used in a vehicle, the device is generally both drawing and expending energy (ie. charging and running say, GPS) simultaneously. This in/out situation when prolonged is the cause of the observed overheating with the original X1 battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no, no! Voltage is not fixed.
This is a variable controlled by the source. If you connect a device to a 3V battery, it is different from when you connect it to a 12V battery, yes? Your flashlight or torch battery will not start your car. But your car battery can and will burn your torch bulb. Therefore, it is important to always connect a battery, or in this case a charger, of the specified voltage, otherwise you will fry your phone.
P=V * I.
The higher the voltage, the higher the power.
For example: Your American 110V TV will not work in Europe, where the voltage is 220V. It will fry!
Imdking said:
No, no, no! Voltage is not fixed.
....
For example: Your American 110V TV will not work in Europe, where the voltage is 220V. It will fry!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Depends on many things. FOA it depends on the type of PSU used in your TV.
Same correct for car converters. Be aware that during average driving your supposed to be 12V are really above 13V. May be even 14.5V.
What I'd not recommend is to buy cheap chinese converters based on 7805 chip. You cannot make it small, the radiator must be a half the size of Xperia itself. No radiator means a sub-100mA current at best.
Better to use something based on LM2678 chip.
sms2000 said:
Depends on many things. FOA it depends on the type of PSU used in your TV.
Same correct for car converters. Be aware that during average driving your supposed to be 12V are really above 13V. May be even 14.5V.
What I'd not recommend is to buy cheap chinese converters based on 7805 chip. You cannot make it small, the radiator must be a half the size of Xperia itself. No radiator means a sub-100mA current at best.
Better to use something based on LM2678 chip.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of course there are sophisticated appliances that allow for different voltage sources. I, for example, buy household appliances that are "multi-national". Like many international students that go to school overseas and take TV's and Hi-Fi's back to their home countries after completing studies. These have power supplies that that can be set to 110v or 220v. Now with techonology advancement, some gadgets will auto detect and automatically switch transformers as needed. The regular TV designed for use in America at 110v will not work in Botswana.
But the principle still stands.
P = V * I.
The higher the voltage, the higher the power! So what when I open the control panel and measure the voltage on a dc power supply it shows 23v instead of the specified 24. No big deal. But if it shows 48v instead of 24, then we've got a problem. The car battery is actually 14.4v. That is not the point!
Do not use a higher voltage source than specified. That some appliances are designed to take fluctuations and slight variances goes without saying. But all within reason. So, if your camera says use a 3v battery, don't use a 9v battery because sms2000 said it "depends".
I have experience with micro amps and other electrical devices.. I have two chargers a generic 5V 1A and a Motorola 5V 550mA. I just bought a desktop charger. The input is 5.2 600 mA and the output is 4.2 250mA. I use to have a batter application for my xperia and it would read 3.9V on the battery. will my chargers work ok. I am thinking to use the 1A charger on the phone and the 550mA on the desktop charger.
I should have read this before but the other day i got from a street seller a car charger, having seen him selling both 1000 and 450 mamp chargers, i got that 450, becuase i knew my phone charger was 700 mamp, i only need it when i use the phone as gps, not always.... but i didn't try it yet ... thanks
science
Just got a griffin powerjolt micro, comes with an ipod cable so you'll have to use your own, but it charges the streak up a treat
Think it was 12 pounds from amazon.
It's designed for iPads, which need 2 amps, it's rated for 2.1 amps. Charged from 30 to 60% in 20 mins while using gps.
Hope that's useful .
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
For battery life is better to charge with low amps and for a long time. I would prefer ,not to use a charger with more than 1A
i got myself te belkin 1A charger. Should work good I guess.
As mentioned in the other thread, both these two work just fine :
https://www.dealextreme.com/p/car-p...cable-charger-set-for-apple-ipad-12-24v-45227
https://www.dealextreme.com/p/car-cigarette-powered-1000ma-usb-adapter-charger-black-dc-12v-40470
$6 or $2 including free shipping worldwide. You'll need the Streak's USB cable to connect it.
Anbuch said:
For battery life is better to charge with low amps and for a long time. I would prefer ,not to use a charger with more than 1A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The car charger does not force power into the phone, the phone draws what it needs. Using a power supply with a higher Amp rating means less strain on the charger not more power than is needed going into the phone.
Sorry for my bad English, I guess you do not understand what I mean.
You're right that the car charger with more amps does not force more power into the phone (I do not say that),but if you use a charger with more amps , charging time is less. The battery prefers long time charging with less charging amps. In fact using less charging amps ,the battery allowed to load more power (a little bit ). You can try it by using a USB port of yours computer to charge the battery.
Anbuch said:
Sorry for my bad English, I guess you do not understand what I mean.
You're right that the car charger with more amps does not force more power into the phone (I do not say that),but if you use a charger with more amps , charging time is less. The battery prefers long time charging with less charging amps. In fact using less charging amps ,the battery allowed to load more power (a little bit ). You can try it by using a USB port of yours computer to charge the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe it's just me, but what you are saying is exactly the same thing.
If the charger isn't forcing more power into the phone, then the charging time will not change. If the battery is receiving less current then what it was designed, such as a low powered USB port, then it would take longer then normal to fully charge. But once the charger puts out the amount of current that the battery will normally draw, the battery will only charge at that rate. Increasing the current beyond that amount will not speed up the charging time or push more current to the battery.
brianlp said:
If the battery is receiving less current then what it was designed, such as a low powered USB port, then it would take longer then normal to fully charge. But once the charger puts out the amount of current that the battery will normally draw, the battery will only charge at that rate. Increasing the current beyond that amount will not speed up the charging time or push more current to the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anbuch is trying to say that the battery will last longer in the first scenario - the longer, slower charge from the low powered USB port.
Quicker battery charging does degrade the cells in less time - if you were to always use a 500mA charger, you would get more life from the battery than if you were to always use the stock 1000mA charger.
You can pick up a replacement battery from eBay for $10, so none of this really matters - when your battery wears out in 18 months, just buy a new one.
Nomgle ,thanks, this is exactly what I wanted to say!
I just gave an example with a USB port. In fact a USB port and a stock 1000mA charger are save enough for the battery of a Streak (1530mA). I just wanted to say : Do not use 2100 mA charger
Flinx78 said:
.... it's rated for 2.1 amps. Charged from 30 to 60% in 20 mins while using gps....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This will "kill" the battery very soon
Some battery reading:
Understanding lithium-ion
Charging lithium-ion batteries
How to prolong lithium-based batteries
From the last page linked:
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Generally speaking, batteries live longer if treated in a gentle manner. High charge voltages, excessive charge rate and extreme load conditions will have a negative effect and shorten the battery life. This also applies to high current rate lithium-ion batteries.
Not only is it better to charge lithium-ion battery at a slower charge rate, high discharge rates also contribute the extra wear and tear.[/FONT]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
.
I use a black&decker converter and it has a usb port already built into it and that works pretty good for me.
Sent from the phone killer of ALL phone's, Dell Streak!
Greetings! I was wondering what is the maximum rated input current of the Xperia Z. There's no indication of it's rated input current anywhere on the phone. The supplied charger is rated at 1.5A and I was wondering if a higher amperage charger above 5V 1.5A (such as of those catered to tablets/ipad) would charge the battery at a faster rate before investing in one.
Anyone with any experience using a higher amperage charger on the Z could advice on any notable improvements in charging time as well.
Thanks!
Used a Nexus 7 charger rated at 2A and it charged fine with no detrimental effects. Charging time is about 1.5, hours from 10% to full.
------------------------------------------
Sony Xperia Z C6603 Purple | RomAur 1.1
cliffordlee said:
Greetings! I was wondering what is the maximum rated input current of the Xperia Z. There's no indication of it's rated input current anywhere on the phone. The supplied charger is rated at 1.5A and I was wondering if a higher amperage charger above 5V 1.5A (such as of those catered to tablets/ipad) would charge the battery at a faster rate before investing in one.
Anyone with any experience using a higher amperage charger on the Z could advice on any notable improvements in charging time as well.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While increasing the Amps will result into fast charging... the bad part is that it kills your battery life overall.
I've tried Sony charger rated output 1500mA
and Galaxy tab charger 2A
phone on, screen off
in 10 minutes charge, both added , just the same, 10% juice.
may try it longer next time.
Dsteppa said:
While increasing the Amps will result into fast charging... the bad part is that it kills your battery life overall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would you care to explain?
Great findings! I guess it's safe to say that there is no notable reduction in charging times even with the provision of higher amperage chargers, and that the Xperia Z's power management IC can only take in 1500mA at max.
moraal said:
Would you care to explain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Charging at higher amperage would generate more heat and this increase in heat would degrade the battery cells at an increased rate, thus reducing the lifetime of the battery in the long run
Well unless you value your charging time (or loss of usable time) more than the cost of premature replacement of battery, then quick charging is for you. Personally, given a choice, I'd rather not charge at a higher current unless necessary, especially when time is the essence. (;
moraal said:
Would you care to explain?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will post when I find the correct link.
Erm I'm fairly sure that whatever amp you use the phone will only draw a set amount I used a 2500mah charger with my old phone for two years no difference in charging time nor degraded battery life or iverheating , just meant I had one charger for everything lol
That's correct, it's impossible to over-charge or charge too quickly a device by using a charger with a higher current rating than the original charger. Current flow is a RESULTING property of a particular voltage applied across a particular resistance. Applying too much voltage will usually be detrimental, but you cannot SUPPLY too much current. The device will draw as much as it needs unless it is limited by the charger's maximum current rating first.
I've been using an old Blackberry charger rated at much less than 1000mA. It might take a bit longer to charge, but I love the long, supple lead that comes with it.
SF
current
Can someone explain me this...
My Xperia Z came with (1) Power plug-adapter with USB port + (2) USB to Micro-USB cable + (3) Docking station.
The (1) has Output = 1500 mA written on it, the (3) has 1800 mA on it.
Questions:
Can the USB cable transfer more than 500 mA? From reading USB page on Wiki, looks like it can do 1500 mA - 5000 mA when not transferring data so I should not worry about the cable?
What is the point of including a 1800 mA docking station + 1500 mA power plug? Does the station only charge at 1500 mA when connected with that plug or am I missing something?
Thanks, sorry for noob questions
Sushifiend said:
That's correct, it's impossible to over-charge or charge too quickly a device by using a charger with a higher current rating than the original charger. Current flow is a RESULTING property of a particular voltage applied across a particular resistance. Applying too much voltage will usually be detrimental, but you cannot SUPPLY too much current. The device will draw as much as it needs unless it is limited by the charger's maximum current rating first.
I've been using an old Blackberry charger rated at much less than 1000mA. It might take a bit longer to charge, but I love the long, supple lead that comes with it.
SF
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Click to collapse
The charging chip it self support higher current by default, but the manufacturer chooses the charger depending on different factors, design of the phone, capacity of the battery and also their stock chargers available... they will choose the best charger to match... in most cases it will be rated lower than what the charging chip is capable of...
the charging chip has it's limits also... using regular USB cables will only provides the standard current... I've used same amperage chargers as the orignal but with different cable and charging was slower... when I switched to the original cable charging was faster and had the same time as original charger ( same amperage )
When you use the original cable and higher current charger then you will have faster charging...
My Xperia arc came with socket charger rated at 950mA and a car charger rated at 1200mA... and the car charger is really faster but only when I use the original cable, when I used a longer cheap cable the charging was actually slower... even when I'm charging non-Sony devices ( like my Note 2 ) when I use original cable ( wether Samsung or Sony one ) charging is always faster... I don't know why it might be a way to protect the standard usb cable from over-current as the standard USB current is 500mA, so the charger will normally send the usual current unless the device requested higher current then it will negotiate with the charger to send higher current the original cables might have something like impedance between some pins so the phone will detect them as original then they will negotiate the charger to send higher current or the charger might actually use the other pins to send higher current but the phone will only use these pins when it detect the original cable... if not then it will not use these pins and will have regular 500mA charging... I've always faced this when dealing with other cables... now when I want longer cable I just use USB extension cable with the original cable and it will work !
wlkatz said:
Can someone explain me this...
My Xperia Z came with (1) Power plug-adapter with USB port + (2) USB to Micro-USB cable + (3) Docking station.
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As you've got the docking station can you tell us how it's wired?
Which pin is + and which is -
Cheers
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks for all the replies, really informative.
fards said:
As you've got the docking station can you tell us how it's wired?
Which pin is + and which is -
Cheers
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Looking at the dock station from the front, + is on the left, - is on the right.
See pic + bonus
Also will be grateful if someone could answer my questions on 1st page.
wlkatz said:
Can someone explain me this...
My Xperia Z came with (1) Power plug-adapter with USB port + (2) USB to Micro-USB cable + (3) Docking station.
The (1) has Output = 1500 mA written on it, the (3) has 1800 mA on it.
Questions:
Can the USB cable transfer more than 500 mA? From reading USB page on Wiki, looks like it can do 1500 mA - 5000 mA when not transferring data so I should not worry about the cable?
What is the point of including a 1800 mA docking station + 1500 mA power plug? Does the station only charge at 1500 mA when connected with that plug or am I missing something?
Thanks, sorry for noob questions
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- Yes, the cable can easily transfer more than 500mah. No worries.
- It means the docking station is rated for a maximum of 1800mah - so if you buy a 2100mah charger, the docking station may get warm and if it fails Sony won't cover it under warranty. If you use the 1500mah power plug, then the docking station supplies the 1500mah - it's just a pass-through. The docking station itself doesn't really have additional circuitry.
wlkatz said:
Looking at the dock station from the front, + is on the left, - is on the right.
Also will be grateful if someone could answer my questions on 1st page.
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Prefect thanks!
Can now make some docks/charging clips using sugru and a usb cable
Not sure why the dock would be rated at 1800, unless they've fitted it with some circuitry, a simple micro usb to prongs would do.
I charge mine using the adapter that came with my note tablet which is 2a and also with the 2a output of an external battery pack.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
fards said:
Prefect thanks!
Can now make some docks/charging clips using sugru and a usb cable
Not sure why the dock would be rated at 1800, unless they've fitted it with some circuitry, a simple micro usb to prongs would do.
I charge mine using the adapter that came with my note tablet which is 2a and also with the 2a output of an external battery pack.
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk 2
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Yes, they're right to write the 1.8A there.
because, not all microUSB survive to deliver more than an amps. They maybe melt. especially the cheap one that have very small and loose contact area.
the pogo pins too... Not so easy deliver 1.8A with pogo pins...
that's why intel processor, have 1000+ pins, but almost 300pins are for power supply only (GND and VCC). Although the chip is only 1.25volts, but the current sometimes about a hundred amps (Core 2 Extreme, Core i7)
Rashkae said:
- Yes, the cable can easily transfer more than 500mah. No worries.
- It means the docking station is rated for a maximum of 1800mah - so if you buy a 2100mah charger, the docking station may get warm and if it fails Sony won't cover it under warranty. If you use the 1500mah power plug, then the docking station supplies the 1500mah - it's just a pass-through. The docking station itself doesn't really have additional circuitry.
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Wrong. If you connect a 2.1A supply, you'll see no difference.
Charging rate is set by the phone, as long as the power supply feeding it doesn't "brown out" under the load.
2.1A, 3.1A - doesn't matter, the phone will draw less (I'll need to drain my battery down a bit to determine how much less, it's often less than whatever the wall charger is rated.)
There is a possibility that when it sees voltage on the pogo pin connectors, it increases charge current to a different value than on AC via the USB port. The ext charger handling in the pm8921 driver is really convoluted and difficult to read.
After looking up a bit on USB car chargers, many people seem to recommend the Scosche Dual USB Car Charger (reVOLT 12W + 12W). Each USB port outputs 2.4A of power to charge any device (there's a known issue with this charger for some non Apple devices, you should use charge-only USB for those), but our HTC One stock charger outputs only 1A.
I am afraid a fast car charger like this one will easily overheat my battery, charging it much faster than usual and degrading its lifespan. Should I worry about this or can I order this charger and not worry about it?
I'm confused because a lot of people recommend car chargers like this one (with more output power than what the stock charger of your device gives you) and no review mentions the issue I'm raising here. Is this a non-issue?
Would appreciate more information on this topic from more knowledgeable people in this area.
Nazgulled said:
After looking up a bit on USB car chargers, many people seem to recommend the Scosche Dual USB Car Charger (reVOLT 12W + 12W). Each USB port outputs 2.4A of power to charge any device (there's a known issue with this charger for some non Apple devices, you should use charge-only USB for those), but our HTC One stock charger outputs only 1A.
I am afraid a fast car charger like this one will easily overheat my battery, charging it much faster than usual and degrading its lifespan. Should I worry about this or can I order this charger and not worry about it?
I'm confused because a lot of people recommend car chargers like this one (with more output power than what the stock charger of your device gives you) and no review mentions the issue I'm raising here. Is this a non-issue?
Would appreciate more information on this topic from more knowledgeable people in this area.
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I'm no expert here but it is my understanding that the phone will take what it requires to charge no matter if you have a 1A or a 2A charger meaning that you will be wasting the power delivered by the charger. I don't think it will affect the battery nor will make it charge faster as I think the internal logic of the phone would not permit so. It could also be the case that HTC limited the power output on the charger but not on the phone meaning that in this case it will charge faster, and I think degrading battery life. Anyway, if you have someone with a higher amp charger you can test this yourself by measuring the time it takes to fully charge with the original charger and the other one. It will not really have an impact in battery life if you just try.
I guess I didn't respond to your question actually! Sorry
Thanks anyway
But if anyone knows the answer for a fact, please pitch in...
J_M_V_S said:
I'm no expert here but it is my understanding that the phone will take what it requires to charge no matter if you have a 1A or a 2A charger meaning that you will be wasting the power delivered by the charger. I don't think it will affect the battery nor will make it charge faster as I think the internal logic of the phone would not permit so. It could also be the case that HTC limited the power output on the charger but not on the phone meaning that in this case it will charge faster, and I think degrading battery life. Anyway, if you have someone with a higher amp charger you can test this yourself by measuring the time it takes to fully charge with the original charger and the other one. It will not really have an impact in battery life if you just try.
I guess I didn't respond to your question actually! Sorry
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You definitely aren't expert, neither am I, but there are couple things:
You were right about that, that device should pull only as much as it needs.
But he won't waste power (in ideal world). As the phone pulls only 1A from 1A or from 2A charger, he still be pulling 5Vx1A = 5W.
Now, to the original question.
Basically every device pulls as much as it can / needs. The Amps on charger says about how much can it deliver maximum.
The question is, how is constructed htc charging circuit. Whether it relays on maximum from charger, or it has internal limitor..
I will try to make an example to make it clearer:
Imagine, that you have a tube made of glass and a reservoir full of water. Tube is your phone and reservoir is charger.
Now, 2 situations can ocur:
1, Tube is made of very thin glass and it relays, that there won;'t be bigger pressure (more water) in reservoir. If there would be more, tube would crack.
2, Although tube is made of thin glass, it has some mechanism included, let's say pressure regulator on the beginning to reduce the pressure.
Now the question is, which of these cases is our phone about.
In short, the HTC One will pull only 1A out of your charger, regardless of whether it's 2A or 100A. The only way you can make it pull more than 1A is by installing a custom kernel like ElementalX or Bulletproof and ticking on 'Enable USB fast charge' which is disabled by default because it shortens the battery's life.
remusator said:
You definitely aren't expert, neither am I, but there are couple things:
You were right about that, that device should pull only as much as it needs.
But he won't waste power (in ideal world). As the phone pulls only 1A from 1A or from 2A charger, he still be pulling 5Vx1A = 5W.
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What I meant to say is that it would be wasting a 2A charger whilst the phone only seems to require 1A, not meaning that the charger will still be delivering at maximum capacity (2A).
Guess none of us could answer his question as we still don't know how the phone handles the charge.
Subjective answer from an anonymous noob, but I charge my phone with a 2.1A wall charger (built into a power board) and there's no perceptible change in charge rate. I've also used a cheap portible charger, a lithium 800mA, and that battery gets HOT like my m7 is pulling 1A just because it detects it's not limited to usbs 500mA (the power dialog reports AC charging mode).
So it seems to me to be a simple 2 mode as shown as a status in the power dialog, either usb or AC. But, I haven't actually measured or tested anything; this is all just casual observation and assumption.
Can I blow up my USB device?
There is a huge variance, then, between normal USB 2.0 ports rated at 500mA and dedicated charging ports which range all the way up to 2100mA. This leads to a rather important question: If you take a smartphone which came with a 1A wall charger, and plug it into a 2A iPad charger, will it blow up?
In short, no: You can plug any USB device into any USB cable and into any USB port, and nothing will blow up — and in fact, using a more powerful charger should speed up battery charging.
The longer answer is that the age of your device plays an important role, dictating both how fast it can be charged, and whether it can be charged using a wall charger at all. In 2007, the USB Implementers Forum released the Battery Charging Specification, which standardized faster ways of charging USB devices, either by pumping more amps through your PC’s USB ports, or by using a wall charger. Shortly thereafter, USB devices that implemented this spec started to arrive.
Fast forward to 2013 and the HTC One. It is equipped with a USB 2.0 port and when no data is transferred it will accept a charge up to 1A with a minimal standard of 500mA. When you buy a charger that says 2A output, this normally means a max of 2A for the charger. When it comes to charging the phone, the phone will only pull enough power it can from the charger and not more.
@Nazgulled
Now a days Car charger is so essential for us. But when we chose A Car charger for our device its not match, so it s harmful for us & its some time cases to damage our device.
Most of the time The power out put of the car its 12V or 24V. and The Charger give different out put for different device. And its a major thing about the charger whats Ampere given output. Avantek Car charger give us different option ; I think its give different out for our device. Avantek take also help auto adjust to the device. So its protect the device.
I Use Avantek Car Charger for my family & You can also try it for your device.
Nazgulled said:
After looking up a bit on USB car chargers, many people seem to recommend the Scosche Dual USB Car Charger (reVOLT 12W + 12W). Each USB port outputs 2.4A of power to charge any device (there's a known issue with this charger for some non Apple devices, you should use charge-only USB for those), but our HTC One stock charger outputs only 1A.
I am afraid a fast car charger like this one will easily overheat my battery, charging it much faster than usual and degrading its lifespan. Should I worry about this or can I order this charger and not worry about it?
I'm confused because a lot of people recommend car chargers like this one (with more output power than what the stock charger of your device gives you) and no review mentions the issue I'm raising here. Is this a non-issue?
Would appreciate more information on this topic from more knowledgeable people in this area.
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Click to collapse
Yes, fast usb car chargers may harm your device. Because if device get power more than its capacity then it would be definitely harm your costly devices. So please purchase a perfect and valuable charger for your devices long life.
Also quick note using a charger that charges your device faster will decrease the life of your battery, remember slow charging is best for the battery and that goes for all batteries
To answer conclusively as I have before:
I've had many many many phones and this is what I've learned over the years through experience and a lot of searching. Our phones are designed for whatever rating it is on the stock charger, which is 1A. However we have chargers that support more current. Which leads us into the next part.
Phones will only "pull" what is it rated for. It controls the final pressure valve in the water metaphor. In this example. Our phones are rated 1A Max @ stock kernel. "Extra power" isnt and cannot used up due to this rating. hence no extra loss except on your wallet. Fast charge raises the rating and limits vary from kernel to kernel. I've used my phone with a 2.4a charger + fast charge enabled before and its fine. Its a little warm (more on that in next paragraph) I'm on "dirty unicorns" ROM and I haven't gotten around to checking the limits
Regardless.. Whether it is detrimental to your phone battery is personal choice as having the % below 40 and heat is #1 enemy to batteries. Our batteries are designed for 5 years max anyway. If you want to play it safe, get a 1A charger and a max 6ft cable as more = less current. Make sure this cable is not from eBay or has sufficient guage size as the copper in some eBay cables can be thinner than your hair. This is important.
If you're looking for unpractical long term savings. Keep your phone room temperature within its temperature rating. Keep charge above 40%, optimally around 80% as lithium batteries degenerate when kept near 100% for too long. (See how frail our current battery designs are? There are higher battery tech our there, but due to cost none are in phones)
I've had horrible horrible power efficiency Roms before and as worst, it just stays on one % value without dropping (no fast charge, 1a charger)
Charging only cables are useless because since 4.3 kernels, android supports iPhone chargers as well.
In addition, car chargers have built in voltage regulators in them, our 12v car source can actually range from 8v to 30v depending on conditions. 8v on crank, and during cold days, 14.4 alternator running, 24v on car boosts. Most car 12v ports are unregulated and Most car chargers operate around 11-15v and give off excess power as heat. Given this, in truly exceptional cases, unless you deliberately overload the charger, we're still good as 5v from a GOOD charger are pretty stable for the phone. Monoprice sells good chargers with good electronic internals for a very good price. Bad chargers pass off this electrical noise to your phone.
TL-Dr.. no difference between 2.4a and 1a. Phone takes what it is rated for(1a). Extra isn't used. Fast charge kernels can increase this rating at a slight warming of phone. In all cases, heat / below 40% = more detrimental to battery life than current speeds. Get a good cable with good gauge size. (Copper width)
If you need further proof, google the terms I have presented or search XDA. There has been many "conclusive" posts on this matter and you'll find many of them say this same exact thing.
Phew.. What a long post.
Sent from my One
Smart IC Powerful will determine the current which your phone needs
Nazgulled said:
Thanks anyway
But if anyone knows the answer for a fact, please pitch in...
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Smart IC Powerful USB Car charger will determine the electric current which your phone needs
Sold by HAWEEL and Fulfilled by Amazon
ASIN: B00Z65KBVM
HTC m7 can take max 1.5A but it seem to not work with many chargers, in such case it falls back to 1A.
But if youre using the phone for GPS navigation, then charging faster will just make it more hot (hot from usage + even more hot from charging) and it will stop charging anyway (because of the heat).
Also, heat is biggest enemy of batteries, the hotter it gets while charging the worse it is for the battery.
Hello! I m using a generic 2.5 mAh 5.0v Charger is it going to hurt my Battery or Mobile OR not????
You can use any micro usb charger, kernel will limit the current.
i'm using "generic" (connectIT) dual usb 2.1/3.1A charger without problem...
btw edit the thread name - charger is spelled wrong (just to help other people with searching in the future)
from the first day on my purchases using g2, more than a year.
It's common sense that higher current = more heat = faster li-ion/lipo degeneration. If you occasionally need a 2+mAh charge, it won't really hurt your battery too much. However, for everyday charging, stick with ~1mah in order to preserve your battery. I personally use an 1mah(5w) iphone charger because it's got the cleanest output out of all the readily available chargers. In my car I have a 2.1mah charger in case I need a quick top up.
Fyi, the phone will only draw a max of ~2mah regardless of what charger you use.
stan54 said:
It's common sense that higher current = more heat = faster li-ion/lipo degeneration. If you occasionally need a 2+mAh charge, it won't really hurt your battery too much. However, for everyday charging, stick with ~1mah in order to preserve your battery. I personally use an 1mah(5w) iphone charger because it's got the cleanest output out of all the readily available chargers. In my car I have a 2.1mah charger in case I need a quick top up.
Fyi, the phone will only draw a max of ~2mah regardless of what charger you use.
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But as stated above kernal will limit the current???
yes the kernel will limit the charging current its ok to stick to any 5v DC charger
touqeer.tx said:
But as stated above kernal will limit the current???
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Yes, the phone will only draw as much current as it's designed to. You could hook it up to a 50a charger if you wanted and it would still draw less than the 2a limit regardless. The only thing that's important is the voltage which happens to be 5v on nearly all modern phones.
stan54 said:
It's common sense that higher current = more heat = faster li-ion/lipo degeneration. If you occasionally need a 2+mAh charge, it won't really hurt your battery too much. However, for everyday charging, stick with ~1mah in order to preserve your battery. I personally use an 1mah(5w) iphone charger because it's got the cleanest output out of all the readily available chargers. In my car I have a 2.1mah charger in case I need a quick top up.
Fyi, the phone will only draw a max of ~2mah regardless of what charger you use.
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Hard to believe a word from you considering you can't even get the current unit right. It's amp aka A. Not mAh, which is both wrong in unit and scale (that's milliamp * hour, that's for capacity).
A typical USB BC compliant charger can supply up to 5V 1.5A, of course there are 5V 2/2.1A chargers around.
The charger only limits the maximum power a device can draw, it has nothing to do with the actual charging process if the device can't draw more than said maximum.
As for you your other baseless claims, typical Li-ion based batteries can at least charge at 1C, that is 1000mA=1A (of course this is actual charging current, which is approximately 1.2x the supplied current on a 5V charger) for a 1000mAh battery, 2A for 2000mAh battery and so forth. There's NO such thing as occasional "2+mAh" is safe. 1C is always safe and that actual number is tied to your battery capacity (5V2.5A would be perfectly safe for a 3000mAh/3.8V battery even if the phone actually took that current).
levizx said:
Hard to believe...
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This is what happens when people can't even read right the charger label.
Val D. said:
This is what happens when people can't even read right the charger label.
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LoL That's Right