Replacement rear stickers and copper plate - Motorola Droid and Milestone General

Hey guys
After trawling through Google, eBay and XDA I haven't been successful in finding anywhere that sells replacements for the black panel/sticker things that have to be ripped off in order to take the phone apart. I might be getting a Milestone with a broken digitizer in a few weeks and, judging from disassembly guides, you have to be pretty rough with these bits to get them off.
I'm talking about the copper bit, the top bit and the bit with the Google logo, all on the rear of the phone.
Any help would be much appreciated!
One more thing: would I be right in thinking that the 855 and 853 digitizers are interchangeable?

In the states I have seen these things from one seller on ebay, quite expensive though. If caution is exercised, all can be removed with little or no destruction to them. If you have a hot air gun. that also helps to soften the glue.
The only one that may get a little bent is the metallic grille. Careful on this with the heat gun if you use one, my first droid I accidentally set it to high heat, and the grille shriveled up as if it were plastic. I would use a razor flush with the grill and slowly work it under, if you start at one end and pull like in the guides I've seen, it will definitely bend.
The other two can be removed with a soft plastic splunger tool, just start at one end and take your time freeing it from the glue, the one with the google logo is brittle and can crack, also if you are too ruff, the black will scratch off the back of it. The top piece is pretty sturdy and a piece of cake, I had a skin on one Droid and the two top pieces came up together.
If you do mess them up and can't find replacements, and the phone is yours, who cares? rock it out with an ugly back

bitz_dv said:
In the states I have seen these things from one seller on ebay, quite expensive though. If caution is exercised, all can be removed with little or no destruction to them. If you have a hot air gun. that also helps to soften the glue.
The only one that may get a little bent is the metallic grille. Careful on this with the heat gun if you use one, my first droid I accidentally set it to high heat, and the grille shriveled up as if it were plastic. I would use a razor flush with the grill and slowly work it under, if you start at one end and pull like in the guides I've seen, it will definitely bend.
The other two can be removed with a soft plastic splunger tool, just start at one end and take your time freeing it from the glue, the one with the google logo is brittle and can crack, also if you are too ruff, the black will scratch off the back of it. The top piece is pretty sturdy and a piece of cake, I had a skin on one Droid and the two top pieces came up together.
If you do mess them up and can't find replacements, and the phone is yours, who cares? rock it out with an ugly back
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks By chance I bought a heat gun to fix something else the other week... Unfortunately it seems like the one I won on eBay has been tampered with already as the copper is 'disturbed'. Oh well... Like you said, I guess it'll just be unique I could buy a vinyl instead.
PS If you ever find that eBay listing, please tell me
Edit Again: Yay, finally found the mesh on eBay. If anyone else needs a replacement it's here.

Related

How to replace Nexus Digitizier/Glass

So last week I cracked the glass on my poor Nexus. It took a horrible drop. Well I can't afford another Nexus and I can imagine having any other phone so I figured I'd repair this one. Read up alot on it and watched a video on Youtube. Ordered all the parts I needed I tackled it today.
Well I decided to do a How-To for any other Nexus owner with broken screens.
New digitizer - $40
Torx screwdriver -$5
Philips screwdriver -$5
Plastic tools - Free
Total - $50
Sure beats the $125 some online sites charge.
I would like to thank ifixit and slickromeo.
1. Gather all your tools and replacement glass (known as a digitizer).
Note: Needed tools are a Philips #00, a Torx T4, and a plastic pry tool (Mine was included with the new screen)
2. Set up a clean comfortable area to work in. You may be here for awhile and you're going to want to reduce the amount of dust that could potentially get on the new glass.
Note: I used a folded over microfiber towel to keep the area clean and also add some padding to the hard counter top to prevent even more damage while working with the phone.
3. Power phone off and remove battery cover, battery, SIM card, and Micro SD card. Set aside in a safe place.
4.Our first obstacle is going to be the antennae cover at the bottom of the phone. There are three plastic clips holding it in place (Circled in red). Use a combination of the pry tool, a guitar pick, butter knife, and any other instrument you need to shove in there. It is a pain in the ass... the video I watched online made it seem like it was going to be alot harder than it was, but if you work from left to right, or right to left, and get the outside one unclipped the other two come off pretty easy. Once you get it off set it aside with the battery cover and other things.
Note: Be careful not to break these tiny, fragile clips as they are the only things holding this cover in place.
5. Scream profanities and wipe the sweat off your brow from the previous step. I know it was frustrating and nerve racking trying not to break your precious Nexus.
6. Ok good job now to start the real deconstruction. I'm going to start with the battery tray and then move down to the antennae. There are three screws holding the tray down, but before we start on those there is this tiny ridiculous little "VOID" sticker covering up one of them. I wasn't able to remove it intake, partly because I don't really care about my warranty, but I'm sure with alot of patience and tweezers one could take it off intake and put it back. But screw that just get it off to get to the screw underneath.
7. Now two of these screws is a Torx and the third is a Philips (All in green). Remove them and put them somewhere very safe.
Note: I have four plastic cups set up to place my screws into. These are going into the first one.
8.Next you need to remove the battery tray. There are seven tabs (yellow circles) around it that you need to release using your plastic pry tool. Once those are released gently pull away form the bottom of the phone to remove the tray. Set the tray aside.
9. Now for the antennae cover. There are two more screws to remove, a Torx and a Philips (Orange circles). These screws are going in the second bowl. After the screws are out, gently lift up on the bottom of that cover and it should remove easily. Be very careful not to damage the circuit board during removal.
10. Next to come out is the logic board. there are two more very tiny screws to remove (White circles). Into the third bowl with those. Next you need to disconnect three connections (purple circles). Then carefully go around the perimeter of it with your pry tool and VERY CAREFULLY remove all the little tabs holding it in place. Then simply push up form the bottom of the logic board and slide it out. Set it somewhere very safe.
11. Now onto the actual case of the Nexus. Remove the six Philips screws, 1 at the top and 5 at the bottom . Again there are a series of little clips, five of em, around the perimeter that need to be undone and then the case very easily separates from the screen. Set the case aside.
12. Very simply pry the LCD screen away form the glass digitizer. There it is... the broken glass.
13. Now take your pry tool and from the back of the glass (not the side you would touch if you were using the phone) wedge it between the frame and the glass to separate to adhesive. Once the pry tool is in you can just slide it around the edge of the glass to separate the whole thing. TA-DA your broken glass is forever gone.
Note: The glass is broken and very sharp. Take extreme caution not to cut yourself.
14. Now we just have to put the whole thing back together. Start with the new glass/digitizer. Peel off the plastic protector to expose the adhesive and very carefully put it in place.
15. Wrap the connector that is part of the digitizer around and secure it in place with its adhesive.
16. Take the whole screen assembly and slide it back into the case. Push to secure the clips then replace the six screws that you removed.
17. Slide the logic board carefully back into place. You may have to hold down/more out of the way a few of the connectors. Take it a little at a time and see where it is getting caught up. You got this far don't lose your patience.
18. Snap the back antennae cover back in and replace its screws.
19. Slide the battery tray into place and replace its screws.
20. Snap the gray antennae cover back on.
21. Replace Micro SD card, battery, and battery cover.
22. Enjoy the beauty of your Nexus without a broken screen.
23. Place Nexus in Otterbox Defender case so this never happens again.
I have pictures that document each step but need to be approved by a moderator before it lets me post em... sorry guys
Hey, awesome job on fixing your screen. I would love to see them, my Nexus just went through the same thing 30 min ago. I had it on my lap, and upon stepping out of the car, SMACK, is all I heard. It landed face down and this is the aftermath. It's much worse than it looks in the picture.
Man, that sucks. I know that feeling.
I'll try to put the pictures up to help you out. Or at least a link to my photobucket.
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
thanks! I just cracked mine yesterday after the phone fell out of my pocket onto a concrete floor. Ouch. I'm giving this a whirl.
Nice, I'll keep this in mind for the day I accidentally break my n1.
I just wish we could somehow jury-rig the Incredible digitizer to our phones =/
I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this write up. I just dropped my phone and smashed the screen on concrete 30 mins ago. All is working but the glass is cracked. I've ordered a new Digitizer/Glass from ebay for £30, I just hope it comes by tomorrow.
you can post picture after 5 posts so it should be good now you have 8 posts
I've just completed the work of replacing the broken glass.
I used your guide throughout, it's a shame you haven't been able to post the pictures as it definitely would have helped. I managed to google some dismantling pictures to help with your talk through as it was hard going some times.
Many thanks again.
Another useful tip: run an air purifier aimed at your work station to minimize the risk of getting dust in the glass.
blueboymj: Any chance you can edit your original post and add your pictures so others can use them? I searched quite a lot for a specific procedure to change the digitizer on my poor N1; This was the best, most accurate guide I found. I've done digitizers on a few iPhones (sorry for the profanity) using the ifixit guides, but alas, the ifixit guides were better for them than they are for the N1.
On a side note: The end cap that gives people so much trouble fell off of my N1 in the initial drop. I pushed it back on, and continued using the phone even though the glass was shattered. Removing it the first time was not so hard, I think it was not back on as well as it should have been. Removing it the second time (another story) was much harder. There are two little plastic "bars" on the end cap (step 4 above) that fit into small grooves on the "antenna cover". (step 7) I think the trick may be to possibly pinch the edges of the end cap, while sliding it toward the bottom of the phone. I looked at it after it was open, to see why it was so hard to remove, and realized I had been inadvertently helping it hold itself closed while trying to pry it open. Maybe one of the videos addresses this; I did not watch them.
Thank you to the OP and the responders for this post!
So where exactly did u order the new digitizier and parts from?
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
This thread should be added to the N1 wiki. Thanks for the instructions.
DrewOntheMYT said:
I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Burn in? Like shadowing on the LCD? Nope.
Thats the LCD, and is completely different than the digitizer. The digitizer is just a clear plastic/glass layer that goes OVER the lcd to detect touch.
I had the digitizer and a new case and was going to have a local phone store replace this for me. However, they just gave me some BS story about how you cannot replace the digitizer without also replacing the LCD screen, which I did not provide.
So I've been without a phone (since they have it) for no reason and have to drive out of my way to retrieve it.
Hey crappy phone store, if you're too scared to do the job just say so, don't try to make up a bunch of manure and say it can't be done.
Anyway, I just ordered the required tools that I don't have and am going to give this a whirl.
OP, if you can't post your pics, can you email them to me?
does it fix the multitouch problem?

Take Apart

Anyone know how to get the front bezel off this thing?
It's begging for a paint job.
Thx!
and perhaps a generous application of rubber cement. I had ONE creek point when i bought it - annoying but livable enough (plus the fact all the bad hours of xmas I was working I never had time to return it in the 30 day period to best buy). now almost 2 months latter theres three...
theres a teardown thread or two on here somewhere but the search button seems to be failing (or my browser....)
- Will.
It must pop off, but I don't want to be the guy to try it...
In the tear down I remember seeing roughly 10 small philips screws holding it from the inside to the metal sub structure. To tighten it you need to remove the back of the device then you will see the screws running around the perimeter. I also remember the screen is held to the bezel with a form of double faced tape.
waremaster said:
In the tear down I remember seeing roughly 10 small philips screws holding it from the inside to the metal sub structure. To tighten it you need to remove the back of the device then you will see the screws running around the perimeter. I also remember the screen is held to the bezel with a form of double faced tape.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its funny because the guy at Best Buy was trying to pull the back off of the one I returned... No idea why he was trying to yank the back off of it...
I guess if he had succeeded I would have seen the screws..
Funny enough the display model NookColor at my local best buy was practically falling off. When I first looked at the device I nearly did not buy one because of that but then getting one in my hands at B&N changed my mind.
The front bezel is a "tape and cover" paint job. The screen is glued to the frame pretty solid. I had mine apart to fiddle around and to get the back off for a mold. Most of the screws are Torx #5 or #6. Tape it off good and you should be ok as far as the front bezel. The rear and metal frame you can easily get to by proper disassembly.
Here's the zdnet guide,
http://www.zdnet.com/photos/nookcolor-teardown/487636?seq=21
Here's what I did.
You'll need a torx 5. After you unscrews the 2 screws by the sd slot, use your nail along the chamfer corner to lift the back siding up. Then use a credit card to lift the back up and run along the edge to unhinged the back.
techboydino, are you going to make a new front bezel? might be a small after market for such things. I'd pick up a more solid one if the price was right.
actually metal front and back pieces would rock...
- Will.
I would like to see a silicon back cover case that has a kickstand..
WillCameron said:
techboydino, are you going to make a new front bezel? might be a small after market for such things. I'd pick up a more solid one if the price was right.
actually metal front and back pieces would rock...
- Will.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was really considering metal but the fact that most would have to really take special care to actually seperate the bezel from the screen really kind of set me off that. making a case for this is rediculously hard. (compared to my attempts at other devices. if you ever seperated a screen for a cell phone from the glass then you know what I mean. I am trying to replace the back with aluminum and wanted to do a carbon fiber front. so far everything is too thick or just plain looks bad.
Ever heard of masking tape?
3M BLUE painters tape FTW
Glad to find this post!!!
This maybe a little off the subject but does any know where I can purchase a replacement faceplate frame cover.
I accidentally drop my nook color and now it has a nasty crack...
Thank you all in advance!
i took the kickstand off a picture frame...white glued it and had one. Then took it off to fit my new cover...replacement kickstand not put on yet..
nookme said:
This maybe a little off the subject but does any know where I can purchase a replacement faceplate frame cover.
I accidentally drop my nook color and now it has a nasty crack...
Thank you all in advance!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your best bet is probably to pick up a smoked one off EBay or one with a cracked screen and a good bezel.
Actually post up WTB (want to buy) dead Nook Color in the XDA market and link to it in this thread. I seem to recall a couple readers here who have more than "gently used" Nooks....

[Q] Replacing digitizer

I've cracked the outer layer of glass on my optimus x2 which I assume is just the digitizer (I'm new to all this smartphone jazz but i've had alot of experience with building computers and such and i can follow instructions) and i'm guessing the cheapest way to repair this thing is to do it myself. I emailed LG asking about what they can do with it and they were asking for £20 just to look at the damn thing so i can't imagine actually doing any work on it would be cheap.
(can't post links but it was just some cheap generic one from amazon for £30)
I'm guessing something like this would do the job but I also need some special adhesive to get the LCD to stick to the digitizer am i right? I'm worried that it will not be as responsive or i'll do it wrong and i only recently dished out £250 for this so i'd like to try and do this right. I've watched a couple of videos on youtube which have helped a bit but none went right through the process so if anyone with any experience doing this could tell me about it i'd be very grateful.
its not that hard. everything just peels off when heated with a hair drier.
the digitzer should come with sticky strips which go around the outside of the lcd and stick to the out side of the digitizer.
Also try to get a digitizer with a frame already on it. otherwise youll have a little bit of a hard time trying to remove the glass from the frame, then gluing in the new one with adhesive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K77Xepb6yd8
Just follow this guide exactly, you should be fine man
Supupa said:
its not that hard. everything just peels off when heated with a hair drier.
the digitzer should come with sticky strips which go around the outside of the lcd and stick to the out side of the digitizer.
Also try to get a digitizer with a frame already on it. otherwise youll have a little bit of a hard time trying to remove the glass from the frame, then gluing in the new one with adhesive.
Just follow this guide exactly, you should be fine man
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the reply, that's a lot of help Could you recommend any retailer that sells these? I can't work out if any of the ones i'm looking at come with the sticky strips. Would I also not need any adhesive if it comes with the frame? I'm not sure I trust myself too much with doing that either.....
I recently replaced my digitizer. I ordered a digitizer already in housing off ebay, shipped from Hong Kong. I would strongly recommend buying it with housing, as it's often difficult to completely make sure that dust does not get between the digitizer and the screen when you're using adhesive tape.
When disassemblying the o2x, I found the adhesive sticking the LCD to the digitizer frame was too strong for the LCD to come off just like that (be careful, it's quite fragile). I heated the LCD a bit using a hair dryer, to make it come of easier. This has the added effect that enough adhesive may stick to the LCD, so you don't need to replace it when placing it in the new frame.
I only added a couple of adhesive strips to the top and bottom of the new frame before mouting the LCD. That was pretty stupid, cause the extra 0.1mm between the digitizer and the LCD means that when tilting the phone ~60 degrees to the sides, I can see the backlights at the sides of the screen. Surprisingly this doesn't seem to add any noticeable backlight bleeding though, so it's not a problem at all. However, I'd suggest to try and see if the LCD sticks to the frame with the old adhesive, before using adhesive strips. And if using adhesive strips, make sure you remove all the old adhesive from the LCD, and use adhesive strips all around the frame.
The only minor things to look out for are:
- Be very careful with the LCD! It takes very little flexing before getting dead stripes/areas.
- Careful with the plastic at the USB port - it's a bit difficult to get to fit, and it's quite thin, so I figure it will break easily.
- At the top of the phone, where the digitizer (or LCD, I don't remember) cable is mounted, there's a little grey rubber-thingy - it suddenly fell off my phone, and it took embarrassingly long to figure out where and how it fits
- The small backup battery (?) in the upper left corner of the phone is glued to the frame. I used a small flat-headed screw driver to release it from the frame. Don't try and remove it by yanking the flex cable.
But all in all, replacing the digitizer with a new one (already in a frame) was a quick and easy operation.
Edit: I bought this digitizer: ebay. co. uk/itm/T-Mobile-LG-P990-Optimus-2X-Replacement-Touch-Screen-Digitizer-Frame-ZVLT338-/160656180054?pt=UK_Replacement_Parts_Tools&hash=item2567dac356 and some cheap 2mm adhesive strips like ebay. co .uk/itm/3M-Sticker-tape-Adhesive-cellphone-touch-screen-LCD-2mm-HTC-Samsung-Sony-/200710386131?pt=UK_Mobiles_Accessories_RL&hash=item2ebb4571d3#ht_1099wt_1165
Why didn't I think of this before.. been cracks in my display for almost a half year now.
Local repair company said it takes two weeks to fix.. I had no plans to go two weeks without my phone
Just ordered one
p990 mother board
dear friend
sorry for my eanglish i write from italy.
i need your help but before i have to explane my problems:
i've a lg optimus x2 (p990) with water demage.....
i cleaned the mother board with success..now the phone turn on and fix the phone net and it can recognize the battery charge.
but unfortunately WI-FI,BLUETOOTH AND MIC(the people who call me can't hear me) DON'T WORK, THE GPS I DON'T KNOW BECAUSE I HOPE TO RESTORE THE WII-FI AND INSTAL GOOGLE MAPS.
i'm sure that wi-fi problems come from the mother board because i have an other same device so i made a test using the good one but the mic problems persisted
my question is ,do you know wich parts i have to check and clean again?
do you know where the wii-fi component are located in the mother board?
thanks for your attention
a friend
marco zavatta
Sorry for bringing up this old thread, but I have to ask, are all Optimus 2X digitizers the same? Don't some have different connectors or anything? Can I order any Optimus 2X digitizer for my P990? I was thinking of this digitizer, will it work?: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Digitizer-F...7BUA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364833172&sr=8-1
I had to replace mine recently, I read there are cheap ones where they only recognize 2 fingers instead of 5 like the genuine LG part. I ordered my digitizer from Ebay for around 18 british pound, I followed a few videos on Youtube with the disassembly, it's actually not that hard.
Keep in mind though that not all digitizers might come with glue attached or come with plastic tools, so keep a small bottle of glue and some plastic tools (credit card style plastic, knife) ready. One video recommends buying foam pads to glue around the digitizer, I didn't find that necessary, I just glued my new digitizer back onto the frame without problems. I accidentally made some glue residue onto the inside of mine, so make sure that you work very carefully
I have done this twice. It is not too hard and a lot cheaper. I follow this guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Po8hBaZt__o.
Do yourself a favour and buy a digitizer with bezel (which is a frame). The first I bought was ****ty Hong Kong digitizer, the second one good Polish(?): http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_nkw=p990&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=digitaloutlet.pl
The hardest part is not to get dust between digitizer and lcd screen - you could consider wearing gloves...
The second hardest part is not to bend bezel around usb inlet.
Good luck!
So there's no connector difference?
kaspar737 said:
So there's no connector difference?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The connector should fit any p990. If you are in doubt email the seller.
oneearleft said:
The connector should fit any p990. If you are in doubt email the seller.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for coming back to this rather old thread, but I have recently replaced the digitizer on my LG P990, bought on ebay shipped from Hongkong, following the video guide cited above. However the digitizer now works erratically with upper 1/4 not responding to touch, and sometimes the whole thing does not work, so I am unable to unlock the phone at all. The only thing that worried me during replacement was the thin layer of plastic film on the inner side, which teared off when removing protective layer (the film was extremely thin and fragile)-would this be the problem? Or the digitizer itself is of low quality?
Any suggestions appreciated.

DIY GUIDE TO REPLACING THE 19$ BROKEN GLASS on the galaxy note

hi folks. i managed to replace my galaxy note front glass with a new one i got from ebay for 19$ and i want to make a step by step guide on how it can be done.
i did it using common tools and a s load of pacience and attention.
the tools i used are: heat gun with hi and low settings, exacto knife set,small phillips and flat screwdrivers, goo gone, and optional a screen protector.
first take the phone apart as it's describet in countless of threads and youtube videos. you should end up with the screen assembly shown in the first picture.
now we have to separate the glassscreen from the frame it sits on. for this we fire up the heat gun.
a few words about using the heat gun.
-my gun had 2 settings: low and high. during all this process i used it on low.
-don't put the gun directly and/or close to the thinn plastic wires that hold the two connectors.
- dont hold the gun in the same place more than 3 seconds, instead swipe the gun around the spot and the screen like u would do with a paint brush when painting.
- dont hold the gun too close, that is closer than 3 inch
-concentrate on the spot u working at but try to heat up the whole screen assembly, as it has to give away from all the points kind of at the same time, and not just the point u working at.
- dont overheat the screen as this will damage the amoled. thats how i got the two yellow spots on my screen. first one by accident and second one intentionaly to see if indeed the overheating is what caused it.
A very good rule for this is dont heat the phone more than you can bear to touch it cause afterall you have to hold the phone while working on it...
the way i did it is :
-i heated up the whole screen assembly, back and front, for a minute or two
- than i started to stick the tip of the exacto knife between the glass and the metal edge that sorrounds it. i started from the upper right corner, the side where the front camera is. see photo 2.
the goal is to unstick the glass from the frame. in photo 3 the frame and the screen is shown without the upper glass. this photo was taken after i finished everything, thats why the screen can be seen inside the frame. but i posted it to show the black sticky tape that its used to hold the glass to the frame. i think is the same kind of sticky tape thats used in all the touchphones including iphone to hold the front glass to the rest of the phone. in photo 4 i unsticked some of the tape to show it better. this tape is the main thing that holds the the glass to the frame. the other thing that hold the screen to the frame is some sticky glue on the back of the screen. but this is much softer and thiner glue. this is the reason why i say to heat up the whole screen assemby including the backside, to make it easyer to unstuck the glass and scren thats glued to it.
- once you get a bit of a foothold in the upper corner between and the glassand the frame you continue the folowing procedure again and again until the glass and screen detaches from the frame:
-every 2 minutes or so , when i feel the asemby cooled down, i'd heat up the whole assembly for 5 seconds or so, than concentrate on the spot i worked on for another 5 seconds, than move/push the exacto knife a bit. dont force it. after a while youl get a feel of it. if the exacto knife happend to be out, i would heat up the blade after heating up everything else, and than put the blade in.
prevent the freed parts from sticking back to the frame by using the rest of the exacto knife blades as shims.
once it detaches it should look like photo 5- the glass glued to the screen.
- now we have to detach or unglue the glass from the screen.
procedure is the same: start somewhere, heat, put knife in, etc... i used a second knife as shim folowing the first knife, and after avery couple moves i would get the knife out and wipe off the epoxy glue. heat the blade and put it back in.
when finished you should have something like photo 6 and 7: free screen covered in glue epoxy residue.
- now we have to get rid of the glue residue. i took the bulk of it usinga flat exacto knife blades like the one in photo 8 and 10. just warm the place a bit with the air gun and scrape it off with the blade. to clean what was left i used a bit of goo gone on a pice of cloth or napkin photo 9.
cleaned screen can be seen in photo 11 - sadly out of focus.
if u are like me and r impatient to test the screen you can just connect with just the side connector like in photo 12 and 13. the upper connector is for the s pen digitizer. side connector is for the screen and touch digitizer.
now all that's left is to put the phone back together except leave the new glass for last.
-first thing is to put the screen(without the glass) back on the frame. try to center it just right, so that ther's a little bit of space between the sides of the screen and the frame.
at this point all that will hold the screen to the frameis the thin layer of glue on the back of the screen. after centering and lowering the screen in the frame procede to put the phone back together folowing in reverse order the same steps used to disasambe it. when finished you should end up with the whole functioning phone except the front glass -as seen in photo 14.
now you can chose to trim and put a screen protector on the scree so as to fill the empty space between the screen and the glass - the space where the glue was, or you can just leave it empty. you can put a screen protector anytime after by removing the glass. which should be much easier to remove now that its held in place only by the blach sticky tape on the edges. just use some suction cap to remove it, starting at an age, and remove it like fliping a page. see photo 16. i used the note for 2 weeks without the screen protector in the empty space and it worked without a problem onlt thing was that when i pushed hard the glass would touch the screen and leave a bit of dirt in that place. thats why i decided to put the screen protector to fill the void. in photo 15 i raised the screen protector to make it visible in the photo.
if you are like me and worry that somehow the glass might fall off the phone you can always get a hard plastic case for the phone, like the one in the pics. it's made of 2 parts. one goes on the back one on the front and they snap togeter around the phone. this will hold the glass in place no matter what while it will also protect the phone.the case is in photos 17 and 18. i got this one of ebay for 8$ and free shipping.
the last thing to be done is:
for some reaseon the touch screen became much more sensitive after removing the glue so you need to lover the touch sensitivity. for this get the touchscreentune app from the market. it works with galaxy note and galaxy s2. put the sensitivity from the recomended 25 to 50.
the best thing about this procedure is that i dont have to worry about the f ing glass anymore. if it brakes again i'l just order another one and in under 2 minutes i can replace it. all i have to do is get the phone case off, put a suction cap on , , remove the old glass , and put the new glass. that's it.
because it takes 4 to 8 hours i would recommend the process to be done in 3-4 sessions as people would get tired after 2 hours of work and tend to lose focus, attention, patience and start to push to get it faster done, and that's when bad stuff happens like yellow spot burn on the screen or small scratches. another thing about scratches, even if u manage to scrach the screen dont worry to much as the scratches are almost invisible when the screen turns on. youl see what i mean ....
i do have one question: WHY DID SAMSUNG DECIDE TO GLUE THE SCREEN TO THE GLASS INSTEAD OF HAVING THEM SEPARATE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TOUCHPHONES?
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
blank for future use
blank for future use
anonymous572 said:
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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Click to collapse
what kind of glue did you use? where did u get the glue from? how did u do it?
i didnt glue the glass back to the screen. i just put the glass on the frame. to fill the void where the glue was i trimed a regular screen protector and put it inbetween the glass and the screen. but it works same without it.
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
pboesboes said:
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
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Click to collapse
Nothing is impossible with the right tool and know-how . The glue could probably be uncured with a heat gun, just like ipad. The challenge is not damage the panel and make sure it is dust free after put back the replacement.
It is said impossible because of the difficulty involved. If you can't manage to install a screen protector with perfect alignment and zero dust spike, this task is not for you.
@drevilatwork Thank you for writing this step by step guide!
I dropped my phone last night and it landed face down, cracking the glass.
I'm so upset, but I don't think I have the skills or the tools to do this job myself. I am relieved to learn that the glass can be replaced, but do you know whether the Samsung agents are likely to be able to do this?
they probably wont do it. but you can try showing this thread to some technician or phone repair shop and they might do it for you. they also might charge you a lot to the point where it might be more convenient to just buy a new 260$ screen.
looks scary dude
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
Its worth a try, since screen replacement costs 230 euros.
kawgirlval69 said:
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
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Click to collapse
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
Why different prices for all the same lenses in this shop ?
drevilatwork said:
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
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Click to collapse
as i said good luck with it and hope you make some money doing it..... ive successfully done the same thing myself but other than it will never look good like a factory screen (not even close), the amount of time it takes to make it look anywhere near acceptable (not like a 10 dollar repair) is big and that makes the repair not really worthwhile doing it for anyone but yourself and even then who spends 700-800 dollars on something and does a repair that makes it look cheap... then theres the whole ordeal of the membrane youre taking the adhesive off of along with the HUGE chance of damaging it.. it is placed with precision and adhered for a reason along with being dust and scratch free... this is a repair that just wont last because things will start functioning improperly for multiple reasons...
im not knocking you or anyone who tries this..im just trying to emphasize the dangers, downfalls and the probability of it being a legit solid repair. also the resale value when the next greatest thing comes along... just beware....
Hmmmm
Well chaps I hate to disagree here, but after speaking to the technical bods at Samsung it appears that the OLED is NOT glued to the glass, but the glass is laminated and bonded in, much like a car windscreen. My screen got broken the other day and I have read the 2 posts on XDA regarding this. Now if you go and have a look at the pics of the other post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1487716
you can clearly see the OLED, although broken, seperated from the glass with no sign of any glue. The reason it broke is that upon heating the glass you will melt the glue, which will then stick to the edges of the OLED and if you pry it at the wrong place/time/too hard/whatever you will break the OLED as it is glued to the bezel itself. So when my glass arrives I am going to attempt to remove the glass using fishing line and pulling it between the glass and the bezel and OLED to release it, the same way as I used to remove car windscreens, and post the results here. I have also been told that the reason for the sticky "epoxy" mess that you encountered in this postis from melting the plastic on the back of the glass (which is the lamination!) by using too much heat.....I mean come on, a heat gun is a bit excessive!! Prying the screen out a bit at a time might work, but will surely end in tears, where as cutting the cold adhesive with a fine nylon cable, which wont scratch the OLED, might just work. I'll keep you posted on my results.
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
pboesboes said:
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
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Click to collapse
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
kawgirlval69 said:
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you mean? One of what?
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know how a digitizer is made.
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
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Click to collapse
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
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Click to collapse
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
pboesboes said:
What do you mean? One of what?
I know how a digitizer is made.
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
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Click to collapse
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION...
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
kawgirlval69 said:
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
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Click to collapse
The sentence made no sense considering what it was replying to. Not my fault you were unclear/ambiguous.
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
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Click to collapse
Ok?
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reading is very good, but you can't assume everyone in a public forum has read every single post of yours and remembers every detail. What isn't helping is the lack of proper punctuation and formatting which make your posts unpleasant to read.
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacement screens are generally OEM parts.
It might appear I'm in a hole, but that's only because I live in Holland and am below sea level. I assure you I haven't done any digging.
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wasn't suggesting to use superglue or epoxy, read it again.
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION
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Click to collapse
I get that, and appreciate your concern. However, you should understand that some people like to try things even when the chance of success is not very high. You seem to be one of us in that regard (you attempted repairs yourself too, right?), so I don't see why it upsets you so much.
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
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Click to collapse
I don't care if you play nice or not. I appreciate honesty. Now for some honesty in return: you're not helping in this thread.
All you do is say people's ideas are stupid without giving arguments that aren't arguments from authority. And I would very much appreciate it if you would stop misrepresenting my posts (intentional or not).

Replacing Spreaker Grills

Ok so I have the silver HTC One and as much as I love it, I can't help but think the front would look bad-ass with the black speaker grills...
I was wondering if anyone has any experience replacing their speaker grills, I remember seeing a drop test video and it popped off. The guy in the video mentioned how it didn't clip back on, it was glued on.
I think if it was easy enough to get a stanley blade in between the grill and the plastic it could just pop off (mine has a gap so it could be quite easy) then it would also help in the future if any scratches happen, just to replace them again...
Thoughts?
thats a good idea, itll be great to know if the speaker grills are repleacable, as they are slightly raised on most phones
I'm just worried incase I order the replacment parts and they are not the same quality as the real HTC One parts. Is there a site that sells genuine parts? They would need to ship to the UK for me though...
Are you out of your mind?
If you are, I'd recommend sandpaper tape and some spray paint. That would probably be easier than disassembly. Maybe even some black nail polish.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
couped said:
Are you out of your mind?
If you are, I'd recommend sandpaper tape and some spray paint. That would probably be easier than disassembly. Maybe even some black nail polish.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I dont think it will be as bad as you think, this is the video I was talking about:
http://youtu.be/KwE9PGDnlvs?t=1m51s
I know the top may be more difficult to get off because of the camera and I think I will wait a few more months to see if anyone does drop their One and the top part pops off... But it would be interesting to know because this could be useful to those who get any real bad damage to their speaker grills...
The speaker grills are glued to the housing, Removing them shouldn't be hard
Do it and get us some pics
I'm doing it. Are you sure about the glue? I also started a thread about it a couple of days ago.
robt772000 said:
I'm doing it. Are you sure about the glue? I also started a thread about it a couple of days ago.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The bottom one is definitely glued, I am not sure about the top one though
Im interested...
Barca009 said:
Ok so I have the silver HTC One and as much as I love it, I can't help but think the front would look bad-ass with the black speaker grills...
I was wondering if anyone has any experience replacing their speaker grills, I remember seeing a drop test video and it popped off. The guy in the video mentioned how it didn't clip back on, it was glued on.
I think if it was easy enough to get a stanley blade in between the grill and the plastic it could just pop off (mine has a gap so it could be quite easy) then it would also help in the future if any scratches happen, just to replace them again...
Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that the black would look pretty cool. Let us know how this turns out! and take pictures of the process. I myself am curious whats behind the top grill, my speaker on the top is starting to crackle horribly i want to know if it would be possible to replace.
One of mine (the bottom grill) has a small chip in it that really annoys me, so i have ordered a new set. Postage to the UK is quite expensive, but the total was only £24. Not that bad considering its an original part I guess.
Removing the grills shouldnt be too hard, just heat them up with a hot air gun, being careful not to 'cook' the phone and carefully prise the grill up. The gap most people have in the case may be a help here. The new one should just press on. Warm it up, press it down and hold it firmly until cool, with a clamp or strong bulldog clip if you can.
Etradesupply.com sells almost everything for HTC one just so everyone knows if they didn't, u also have a tiny chip in my lower speaker grill, but my case hides it for now so I'm not super worried, but I would love to know if this is possible!!
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
The grills and the SIM tray are about the only things you can replace. They sell screens, but there is no realistic way to replace them. Even if you could open the phone without marking it, putting it back together is almost impossible.
rovex said:
One of mine (the bottom grill) has a small chip in it that really annoys me, so i have ordered a new set. Postage to the UK is quite expensive, but the total was only £24. Not that bad considering its an original part I guess.
Removing the grills shouldnt be too hard, just heat them up with a hot air gun, being careful not to 'cook' the phone and carefully prise the grill up. The gap most people have in the case may be a help here. The new one should just press on. Warm it up, press it down and hold it firmly until cool, with a clamp or strong bulldog clip if you can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for clarification, did you order this from etrade supply? do you have it yet and how is the quality...?
Regards
Zak
Etradesupply quality is very good. I order parts from them and never have an issue.
Heat gun or hair dryer to loosen up the glue should help.
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
Curious to see if you went through with this.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
I bought some etrade silver speaker grills but no longer need them.
If possible please share the whole process heating , removing and fixing the top and bottom speaker grill. Thanks !
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
Just a tip, do not "paint" the grill. It's impossible to do without stuffing up the holes anyway.. And paint does not stick to aluminium.
You need to anodise aluminium.
Google how to do it but in a nutshell..
1) chemically clean existing aluminium to remove all traces of colour /surface protection. 2)Anodise it to required colour or clear colour
This not only gives you the look you want but makes the surface very hard.
Anodising also is not "on" the surface but part of it so it won't scratch off, block holes etc.
Bare aluminium is very soft and WILL oxidise and go dull. Apart from living in a vacuum or learning to breathe argon gas, you can't stop it.
Anodising MAKES aluminium oxidise and then fill the surface with a dye. This prevents further oxidisation.
Cheers, Marty
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 4 Beta
any luck with replacing the speaker grills?
Just a heads up
I asked about this a different thread and one of the people that replied told me that only the bottom grill is glued in. He said the top is actually screwed in from the back before the back cover is put on. I cant confirm if he was correct, but still good info for anyone planning to try something like this. Can anyone confirm that has purchased these if there are threads in the top grill for it to be screw in?

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