Database Develop

Deluxe USB Desktop Cradle

I've got some problem with this cradle,
its strange cause if the delivered charger is put into the mini usb its loads the HD2 only if I use the "charge on usb" option in power settings but if I plug in the normal Leo charger on micro usb port (which normaly is for data) its loading like usual... are there any wires wrong ?

no one out there?

Do you have a spare battery in there? I thought mine wasn't charging at first too, but that was because my second battery was charging. I only have the supplied charger plugged into the mini-USB port.
I haven't tried what happens if i connect both micro and mini USB to the cradle and i don't have the chance to do that anytime soon, might be an idea though?
Annoyingly, the HD2 sounds were played to the 3.5mm jack when plugged in (which i don't have connected to anything yet), so my alarm wouldn't sound. I found the setting where to route the systemsounds (either to device or external), so that's no problem anymore

shufflez said:
Do you have a spare battery in there? I thought mine wasn't charging at first too, but that was because my second battery was charging. I only have the supplied charger plugged into the mini-USB port.
I haven't tried what happens if i connect both micro and mini USB to the cradle and i don't have the chance to do that anytime soon, might be an idea though?
Annoyingly, the HD2 sounds were played to the 3.5mm jack when plugged in (which i don't have connected to anything yet), so my alarm wouldn't sound. I found the setting where to route the systemsounds (either to device or external), so that's no problem anymore
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i found someone here in forum who has build a switch to change between sync and charge mode with the cradle delivered charger, but he doesnt answer my question how he did it....
nickname is Donald24

hi,
the hd2 recognise a 'real' charger at the fact that pin 2&3 (the data pins) are shortend. so it can achive more then the 500mA that it can get from a (PC)usb port. at least at my charger things are handeld that way.
regards mad

madbird said:
hi,
the hd2 recognise a 'real' charger at the fact that pin 2&3 (the data pins) are shortend. so it can achive more then the 500mA that it can get from a (PC)usb port. at least at my charger things are handeld that way.
regards mad
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
okay I managed to change my car charger this way but I'm not shure if I shorten the pins in the cradle with a switch to change between fast charge and USB connection if there will be some trouble with a connected PC...

shufflez said:
Annoyingly, the HD2 sounds were played to the 3.5mm jack when plugged in (which i don't have connected to anything yet), so my alarm wouldn't sound. I found the setting where to route the systemsounds (either to device or external), so that's no problem anymore
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is it possible to explain how

Tasker In-Car power issue

I have built a Nexus 7 into my car and I have a small issue.
I need a tasker profile:
When I turn the car on, the screen turns on and music plays.
When i turn the car off, the music stops and the screen turns off. (along with other stuff)
I have created a "test" version of all this so when I connect a power cable (i.e when charging) it turns the screen on and plays music.
When I disconnect the USB (i.e. stops charging) the screen goes off, music stops, bluetooth off etc and all this works fine.
However, the USB will always be connected with power coming through so I cannot use this option. I need another way to detect if the car is on and when it turns off so I can run the correct tasks.
One option i thought of is buy a wireless charger and build it into the car. When my phone is placed on the charger, send a text message to the tablet to turn it on, and when i turn the car off the charging will stop, then the phone will send a text to the tablet to turn the screen off etc.
However after purchasing the wireless charger, i realised everytime i get a call or take my phone of the charger for whatever reason, the screen will go off and music will stop, so this isnt an option either.
So the question is, what can i do so tasker can detect that the car is on or off so the nexus can perform the tasks?
Hope that makes sense

idi_idi said:
ISo the question is, what can i do so tasker can detect that the car is on or off so the nexus can perform the tasks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do realize that you really have two problems, right? The Nexus 7 will not know when the car is started, or stopped. Unless you can disconnect the power, manually etc.. If you can do that, you can send a command in fastboot to force the N7 to power up when power is connected, otherwise you'd have to boot it up manually.
You could unplug the USB charger.. Or have the tablet turn off after N hours of inactivity, although how do you detect "new" activity if there's no change when the car is started.
If your car has bluetooth, you could detect that as the "turn off" task perhaps, but turning on is probably your bigger issue.

Will the wireless charger idea work?

idi_idi said:
Will the wireless charger idea work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea what you mean by wireless charger (2012 model has no wireless charging), or how you'd control it with the phone. And unless your tablet is a 3g one, I don't know how you'd directly communicate with it either.

I just put my phone back to stock so I had to uninstall Tasker, however your tablet does not pull power once the car is off correct? I had a power based one as well, I remember testing it with a surge protector. I could leave the USB connected but flip the surge protector on and off (to mimic power to the phone being halted). To my knowledge when the car is off your USB shouldn't be drawing power therefore you could run the profile off that. Export the profile and post here. I'd like to help test it.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app

elpeterson said:
To my knowledge when the car is off your USB shouldn't be drawing power therefore you could run the profile off that. Export the profile and post here. I'd like to help test it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My last four cars (current and previous of wife and my cars) the lighter plug stays powered when the engine is off.
I think it's getting increasingly common for the plugs to stay powered. So there's no way for the tablet to know the car is off unless the car has bluetooth and you can look for that.

khaytsus said:
My last four cars (current and previous of wife and my cars) the lighter plug stays powered when the engine is off.
I think it's getting increasingly common for the plugs to stay powered. So there's no way for the tablet to know the car is off unless the car has bluetooth and you can look for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have actually found the exact opposite to me true. My wife's 2014 Pilot goes off as well as my 2012 Veloster whereas my 2001 Sable and her 2007 Passat left them on. I'm not sure if you can resolve your issue then. I'll keep looking into it. You could trigger it based on speed I think
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app

elpeterson said:
I have actually found the exact opposite to me true. My wife's 2014 Pilot goes off as well as my 2012 Veloster whereas my 2001 Sable and her 2007 Passat left them on. I'm not sure if you can resolve your issue then. I'll keep looking into it. You could trigger it based on speed I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose that could work.. Find out the speed for several periods in a row, if it's zero, assume it's time to shut down. But that'd mean it's playing music etc during that period etc.
IMO bluetooth, or a plug he can turn off, is really the only way if his USB is powered up all of the time.
Also remember, he has no way to know when to power UP either. I still maintain that's the bigger problem, especially if it's a fixed install and he can't poke the power button

At the moment, its connected so when the car turns on, the USB is powered up and when the car turns off, the power in the USB stops. So at the moment, my tasker profile works on "when charging" do Task A, when not charging do Task B. And it all works fine at the moment.
However I am having issues with charging, (The device is not charging fast enough when turned on and the battery drains over a couple of days) so i planned to keep it always charging, so the power in the USB will always be there regardless of if the car is on or off. So i cant use the "when charging" on tasker anymore. So i needed a new way to it to figure out when i got in the car.
Here are my ideas:
1. Have a wireless charger in my car for my phone. (Not the tablet). When i get in the car, i could put my phone on the charger, have the phone send a text to the tablet to turn it on. When i remove the phone from the charger, send a text to the tablet to turn it off. Simples
2. Connect a wifi router in the boot or something and have it start up only when the car starts, and turn off with the car. It doesn't have to be connected to the internet, it just needs to power up. Then i can do a 'When wifi near' on tasker to see if the car is off or on, and turn the screen off accordingly.
3. Connect the tablet to my phones bluetooth. Whenever i get in the car, they will connect and the tablet will power on. when i leave the car, it will power off. (Not the best option since it will stay on even if i am near the car)
4. Similar to option 1, but have a nfc sticker in the car. when i swipe my phone on it, it communicates with the tablet and turns it on, n then off when required. but i dont want to do this since i know i am going to forget to turn it off one day.
I don't really want to do the speed option, since i want it to turn on as soon as i enter the car, not when i start driving, and i want to be able to park up and use it when i need to put an addess in the sat nav etc.

idi_idi said:
However I am having issues with charging, (The device is not charging fast enough when turned on and the battery drains over a couple of days)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.

khaytsus said:
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried about 20 different chargers, up to 2.5amps. The problem isnt the charger. The problem is i dont drive the car long enough to give it time to charge. So if i drive the car for about half an hour a day, for the other 23.5 hours, its on standby. so the battery is always going to go less. So thats why I plan to connect the charger directly to the battery so it will always be charging.

idi_idi said:
I've tried about 20 different chargers, up to 2.5amps. The problem isnt the charger. The problem is i dont drive the car long enough to give it time to charge. So if i drive the car for about half an hour a day, for the other 23.5 hours, its on standby. so the battery is always going to go less. So thats why I plan to connect the charger directly to the battery so it will always be charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I thought you had the tablet turning off when the car went off. If I were you, I'd set up a profile that turns off the tablet if it hasn't had power in a few hours, pretty simple to do. On Power, set a time var, every so often check that time var to see if it exceeds your threshold, and power down if so.
If you don't have much installed, it should be a fairly quick power-up, especially the plug goes hot when you start the car.
BTW I hope you're considering cold and heat if you're leaving the tablet in the car. Leaving it in the heat all summer will will the battery.

You can use Timur's kernel, it senses power to turn N7 on or deep sleep it.
Also charges N7 while using OTG.
It;s designed for car install.

khaytsus said:
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, you need to get at least a 2A charger for your car. My wife would watch Netflix on long drives and my car USB port or the normal USB charger I got for the cigarette lighter worked until I up'd it to a 2A charger. I can have screen on for hours while streaming video and still fully charge the tablet in a reasonable amount of time.

[Q] Is any kind of fast charging possible?

Team,
First off, I want to say thank you for creating an amazing resource for these phones. I currently have a Galaxy S4 Active MF3. I bought the phone with the intent of using it in conjunction with my car stereo, which is a Pioneer 8500 BHS. I've paired this up with a Samsung MHL 2.0 adapter and ARLiberator. On top of this, I have installed a OBD-II bluetooth module in the car that also communicates with the phone. The end result is that the phone delivers full touch screen control of all apps on the phone, full bluetooth hands free calling, voice control, GPS (Tom Tom), Pandora, and most importantly, gives me a second dashboard where I can customize any gauge that the car did not offer stock, such as boost gauge, wideband air/fuel ratio, exhaust gas temperature, and a few other things. I'm using the full version of Torque to do this. It is amazingly useful, with one exception. The Samsung MHL adapter never lets the phone charge at more than 300 milliamps. The USB connection straight from the stereo charges at 900, and a 2.1 AMP charger with the Samsung cable will charge at 1900. However, regardless of the combination I use, the MHL always cuts this down to 300. This causes the phone to lose about 15-20% of it's charge every hour. For short trips, this is OK, but for longer trips, I can no longer use GPS, which is a big problem, as that's the whole reason I got the phone. Other users of the standard Galaxy S4 and this combination have been able to get around this issue by installing a ROM with Fast Charge enabled, which gives them 800 milliamps. This is just enough to let the phone be used and slowly charged at the same time.
I understand that currently we're limited to stock kernels with modifications layered on top (GoldenEye, ETC...), and that the Fast Charge code requires a kernel recompile in order to function. Is this correct? Do I have any other options? I've considered wiring in a wireless charger just to get the phone to charge on long trips, but I'm concerned that wireless charging in addition to the USB input and charge may cause the battery to overheat or reduce it's life.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Matt

as far as I know, there is a possibility of welding a 100 Ohm (or just short circuit (more risky, but I've read that some guys using a standard usb cable with simple bypassed Data-wires in combination with the S4A)) between the D+ and D+ wires of the USB-Cable (should be the green and white wire within the cable). Regarding http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs a resistance below 200 ohm is the sign for a dedicated charging cable/device.
I've seen a manual of an sgs user, having full loading speed in his car, using a modified cable. Unfortunately his manual is in German, u can find it here. All credits belong to him.
by the way, i am pretty sure u will find an similar manual within this xda-board using the right search patterns, cause It does not seem to be device related.

shaDNfro,
Thank you very much for your reply, but unfortunately the 'cable mod' will not work in this instance. The reason that it won't work is that the stereo needs the Data + and Data - for Audio and synchronization data being sent back to the headunit for broadcast, and the MHL blocks the D+ and D- resistance from reaching the phone. To verify this, I took a stock Samsung cable with a voltage inverter in the car, and wired the whole system up into the MHL adapater. The system still charges at 300 ma, despite the fact that I can plug the same cable going into the MHL directly into the phone and get 1900 ma. If I use a 'modded' cable without the inverter, then the MHL still charges at 300 ma, but AppRadio will not function, as it gets no signal from the data ports on the USB. To add insult to injury, the MHL input is a 12 pin interface, and shunting D+ and D- cables on the MHL output is dangerous, as the system is doing more with the 12 pins than a standard 4 pin USB. I really don't want to fry a 400+ dollar phone.
What we really need here is one of two things:
1. The ability to upload a recompiled kernel into the system (I know that we have a bounty on this and it's not going anywhere)
2. The ability to modify the input amperage without a recompiled kernel
I'm not sure if either of the above two things can be done. I'm either going to have to live with this or get a new phone.
If ANYONE has any other ideas, please let me know!
Matt

Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.

Vaiski said:
Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Vaiski,
That's not a bad idea! From some more of my recent research, it appears that I now have three options I can look into:
1. Vaiski's idea of adding a 2.1 AMP second USB line to the + and - phone input while cutting the current MHL + and - cable output. This would essentially allow the MHL to get its power from the stereo's USB input, and the phone to get its power from an external, high amperage USB line and still allow me to keep the data flowing between the phone, MHL adapter, and stereo. I've got a second 'generic' MHL adapter that I wouldn't mind cutting up to spare my $50.00 Samsung MHL adapter if this doesn't work. This wouldn't allow the system to get the full 1900 ma, but it should get me upwards of 300 ma, which is where I am now.
2. I can add a wireless charger into the mix. From what I've read, if you charge with USB and wireless charging at the same time, the wireless charging would take priority. This would give me the same results as option #1.
3. I can try using the samsung S4 Multimedia dock. It appears that the dock doesn't have the same voltage output limitations as the MHL adapter. It does cost $100.00, though, and it's rather bulky.
These are all really great ideas, but what really bothers me about all this is that it shouldn't be necessary. If Samsung/AT&T hadn't installed a bootloader kernel checksum, none of this would matter. I could simply put a custom kernel in and call it a day with my current hardware. Hopefully someone will crack the bootloader soon. That would really be the best option instead of being locked into 4.2.2.
Thanks again!
Matt

s4 active charging
mattb22 said:
Vaiski,
Thanks again!
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know whether or not you found a solution to your problem yet. I discovered same problem using stock charging cable and having Bluetooth, Wi-Fi amd GPS turned on, playing music through usb to a pioneer stereo.... no Bluetooth on stereo, but was using a BT hands-free device. Anyway, same problem as you, charger wouldn't keep up. Tried turning off Wi-Fi... had mobile hotspot turned on for wife's tablet, helped some but still drained faster than charged. A couple months ago, I couldn't find the factory charging/data cable and phone needed charging, so I tried a cable from one of those battery powered phone chargers, thing is only about a foot long, but phone said "charging" it went from about 30% to full in less than an hour, this phone has never charged that fast. I've experimented with it a bit, and it won't work as a data cable but it will keep up with everything turned on. I don't know if it's the length of the cable, or if the pins on the cable are different, in any case, try different cables, if you only need charge while your driving then the lack of data won't be a problem, though I liked being able to charge and listen to music at the same time, I'd rather know that my phone won't be dead when I get to the other end of a long road trip.... besides I figured out that a flash drive plugged into stereo plays music better.
Hope this helps

[Q] Car Mode Cable

So not sure I'm going to have any luck with this but it's worth asking - maybe someone has done the same thing.
I tried to follow the following thread to make a cable that will start the phone into car mode:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1475272
I have a working OTG cable and a USB A-A. When I connect the cable to a charger and plug it into the phone I just get a notification that says "The USB host cable is plugged in. Unable to charge the device"
So I did a little more looking and people said to trigger car mode pins 4 and 5 must be connected. I hacked up a cable and jumped them together. Plugging in the hacked up cable gives the same notification - "The USB host cable is plugged in. Unable to charge the device"
So apparently my OTG cable is working as intended but doesn't launch car mode.
Does anyone know what the M7 uses to detect the car dock? I don't want the stock HTC car dock since it goes on the windshield and I want it clipped into a vent.
Edit: Looks like this may be in the source somewhere...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275
Anyone familiar with the kernel source able to help? I'm going to do my own searching but I'm hardly familiar with linux.
Edit 2: Found values for HTC One X. Just don't have resistors handy:
10kOhm triggers auto dock mode
68kOhm triggers desk dock mode (also, a 47kOhm triggers desk dock mode)

ShadowDrake said:
So not sure I'm going to have any luck with this but it's worth asking - maybe someone has done the same thing.
I tried to follow the following thread to make a cable that will start the phone into car mode:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1475272
I have a working OTG cable and a USB A-A. When I connect the cable to a charger and plug it into the phone I just get a notification that says "The USB host cable is plugged in. Unable to charge the device"
So I did a little more looking and people said to trigger car mode pins 4 and 5 must be connected. I hacked up a cable and jumped them together. Plugging in the hacked up cable gives the same notification - "The USB host cable is plugged in. Unable to charge the device"
So apparently my OTG cable is working as intended but doesn't launch car mode.
Does anyone know what the M7 uses to detect the car dock? I don't want the stock HTC car dock since it goes on the windshield and I want it clipped into a vent.
Edit: Looks like this may be in the source somewhere...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=820275
Anyone familiar with the kernel source able to help? I'm going to do my own searching but I'm hardly familiar with linux.
Edit 2: Found values for HTC One X. Just don't have resistors handy:
10kOhm triggers auto dock mode
68kOhm triggers desk dock mode (also, a 47kOhm triggers desk dock mode)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never had a desire to put my phone into car mode and maybe I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but couldn't you just use an app like trigger to program an NFC tag and place it on your car dock so when your phone is placed in the dock and touched the tag, BOOM, phone is in car mode.....then just touch the tag again when exiting car to exit car mode?

mcerk02 said:
I never had a desire to put my phone into car mode and maybe I am not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but couldn't you just use an app like trigger to program an NFC tag and place it on your car dock so when your phone is placed in the dock and touched the tag, BOOM, phone is in car mode.....then just touch the tag again when exiting car to exit car mode?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I'm leaning towards doing if this all fails. It would just be nice to use what I've already bought - and sliding the phone into the dock would automatically trigger this mode once it was plugged in and charging. An NFC tag would accomplish the same thing maybe.
Car dock mode will be nice since it'll toggle bluetooth on for me and start playing music automatically. It's in a nice location in the car for viewing and could be used as GPS without having to dig it out of my pocket.

Bumping a reply up to this since I finally got around to putting some more time into this project...
10k ohm resistor puts the phone right into car dock mode and takes it out of car dock mode when unplugged. Exactly what I was looking for. 47-68k ohm likely triggers desk dock mode so I'll save that one for another day.
Just going to cut up a USB cable and throw the resistor between the two target pins and I'll have a working car dock cable. Happy hunting all.

What wire lines of the usb does android auto use?

Usb has 4 (generally) wires Red and Black for +-5v and another two for data (most often white, green).
The question is: Do i need all 4 wires for car head unit to recognize android auto by connecting the usb?
If i cut voltage (red and black wires) will it still recognize it?
If not, if i give external voltage to phone to red and black wires i have cute, will it work now or not again?
My main problem for asking this, is that car head unit does not provide much voltage when connecting phone for android auto and decharging slowly..
I am sure if i cut voltage wires as i describe above and connected to a light charger i will have more voltage.
But i afraid destroying head unit so i prefer to cut voltage of head unit, and use only voltage from lighter charger..
Any info about this?
I am actually going to install permanently an old phone to the head unit only for android auto.. And i want to be changed.

Anyway i decided to destroy a cable to find out myself..
By only cutting red wire, android auto loose connection...
But how does it see it?.. If i put a resistor or something could i trick it?..
If anyone know would be very helpful.
Sent from my SM-T700 using XDA-Developers Legacy app

Hi Sosimple
I have no possibility of trying it myself but I guess there are two possible problems that cause Android auto to stop working.
1: mobile
Your phone recognises that it isn't being charged so there can't be a Android auto connection. To test this out, connect a charger to your modified cable (connect plus and minus to the charger and d+ and d- to the car)
2: car
Your car recognises that there is no draw at the USB port, so no smartphone is connected (this is unlikely though, because the smartphone could have a full battery). To test this, try putting a resistor in between plus and minus of the cable. (10Ohm~500mA so don't go below 10Ohm. Try higher resistors first)
If none of the above work, consider buying a USB y cable (used for external HDD) to cross out possible mistakes
Regards

Thanks. I will test a resistore some day..
My car (intellilink system is called, opel corsa) has 1 usb only. But you can connect a 4 port usb switch, so to use 1 port for a usb stick with mp3, and another usb to connect phone for android auto at the same time.
And working fine this way.
If i use a y cable to connect it 1st usb to lighter charger, 2nd microusb to phone, and 3rd usb to usb switch, i really don't know what is going to happened regarding voltages. If there is any danger for the intellilink system of opel corsa.
I don't care if anything happens to phone as i have an old to test, or the switch, as it is cheap, but i do care for intellilink as it is expensive. That's why i haven't test a y cable..
Sent from my SM-G9350 using XDA-Developers Legacy app

If Android auto works with the switch, no need for trying a resistor (because only the switch could measure the current draw)
So the reason it doesn't work must be the missing charge voltage at your phone. Did you try connecting + and - to a charger?
Your switch gave me another idea. Try finding a powered switch (a USB powered or directly 12v powered one). Those switches with external power exist and they could provide enough amps to charge your phone while using Android Auto.

m00str said:
If Android auto works with the switch, no need for trying a resistor (because only the switch could measure the current draw)
So the reason it doesn't work must be the missing charge voltage at your phone. Did you try connecting + and - to a charger?
Your switch gave me another idea. Try finding a powered switch (a USB powered or directly 12v powered one). Those switches with external power exist and they could provide enough amps to charge your phone while using Android Auto.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i also had the idea to take a powered usb switch. I couldn't find one where i live yet..
Although if i found one, i also have the fear if i could harm cars intellilink system..
Because: Intellilink takes voltage from cars battery and give voltage to usb.
If i then i take a powered usb switch, which i will connect it to usb charger lighter (which takes voltage from car battery) and connect then the switch to usb of intellilink system, who really knows what happens Regarding voltages? All take power from cars battery. I don't know if i can connect them without destroing intellilink system..
Thing become to complicated to be sure what will happened.
I read alot in forums but haven't read something similar..
Anyway if i test it, i will post the result..
Sent from my SM-G9350 using XDA-Developers Legacy app

Those external powered switches usually separate input data and output voltage completely, so there is most likely no connection at all
The point that both devices are powered by the same source (car battery) even reduces the risks of damage because of the same minus/ground potential. (I would even connect the minus poles of all devices if I soldered myself a y cable, just to have all GNDs connected, but there is no need to do so.)
Can't you order one from Amazon or eBay? I don't know where you are from but most Chinese or Hong Kong sellers (eBay) ship almost worldwide.
I hope it works for you somehow.

I probably will create one by muself.. I live in Greece. I have already created one, doing something similar. With an on/off button i choose if i will change phone from usb charger from lighter OR connect to intellilink (and disconect from usb lighter charger at the same time)..
I experiment with this. It looks to work well as in on i have intellilink connection, android auto, and in off i disconect from intellilink but charge from usb charger in lighter..
I'll keep this for some time..
Sent from my Nexus 5X using XDA-Developers Legacy app