Database Develop

How to set up G Watch R to avoid burn in and prolong battery life

Hi All
I have only been using these forums for a week but it is clear that a lot of people (like me) have concerns about how best to set up their G Watch R to avoid burn in, prolong battery life, etc. I have put together some of the advice that users have kindly given me. I’d welcome people’s input on this, to clarify anything I’ve missed and in particular answer the questions I have added below. It would great to set this up as a Sticky so new users could set their watches up correctly.
Colour Schemes
• ALWAYS use more green/red themes (and combinations - yellow, orange) because red and green are the most resilient OLED compounds.
• AVOID using BLUE in "always on" mode.
• WHITE has a lot of blue in it ... so, a long time of white theme usage will create burn-in in all colours, especially in the blue colour.
• Remember on OLED, black means "off". A mostly black watchface burns almost no juice.
• When you define a bright text or colour, look at the hex code of the colour : XXYYZZTT where XX is hexa code for transparency, YY is red level, ZZ is green level and TT is blue level. ... so try keeping the last two hex numbers in the low area, meaning below 100 (00 means 0, FF means 256, as colour intensity). – HOW TO DO THIS?
• HANDS AND HAND MAKERS ARE OFTEN WHITE, HOW CAN WE BEST USE THEM?
Style
• Avoid thick bright lines
• Keeping one pixel bright (because it's in the middle of a thick line) is something you absolutely need to avoid, for example, on analogue hands the middle won’t move.
• Display digital clock in small thin font
• Android wear shifts the whole face a few pixels in different directions every now and then to try to eliminate some of the burn in.
• If the respective elements are no more than 2 pixels wide, they will not cause that much burn-in because the dim mode pixel shifting will move that object around enough to let the main pixels "rest".
• The time, if is displayed in the analog style (with dials) will not cause burn-in because the bright part of the image is moving around so one can use brighter clock hands for this.
• WHAT ARE THE BEST STYLES TO USE FOR DIGITAL AND ANALOGUE?
Brightness
• NEVER use it at max (or high) brightness more than few seconds with a static image.
• Use very very VERY LOW brightness always on/dim mode.
• It's not constant illumination that is causing burn-in in the first place, but constant illumination with "high brightness".
• Default DIM mode of the Watch G is waaaaay to bright for the purpose of the "dim" mode - HOW TO CHANGE THIS?
• A black, transparent layer is needed on top of the dim mode in order to prevent this – HOW TO DO THIS?
• To adjust just the dim mode face only you'll need to use one of the face making apps and duplicate the parts and make a separate dim mode.
• HOW CAN WE BEST SET UP BRIGHTNESS FOR “ON” and “DIM” (USING APPS LIKE SWAPP TRUE DARK WEAR)?
Good Watchfaces
• Almost all the watchfaces from Smartwatch Bureau F01,F03, V01, V02... A45, A42.... have a setting for brightness in dim mode. So we can have a dim mode very dark and we can choose the face color for dim between 7 colors : green, blue, cyan, red..... so with this faces we can avoid easily all burn issue.
• Also the digital from Smartwatch Bureau which can be displayed in green in dim mode to avoid burning
• CAN PEOPLE OFFER SOME EXAMPLES OF GOOD WATCHFACES (INCLUDING CUSTOM FACES) AND DISPLAY SETTINGS THAT WOULD HELP TO AVOID BURN-IN?
Useful Apps
• SWApp True Dark Wear – to set the brightness below the lowest default on the watch
• Stuck Pixel Fixer for Wear app - Try running "stuck pixel fixer" for few hours, with the display set to max brightness. That should help getting rid of the ghosting and also will "age" your pixels in order to be able to display static images w/o burning.
• Mini Wear launcher – also allows you to set lower brightness setting
• CAN PEOPLE OFFER TUTORIALS ON HOW BEST TO USE THESE TO SET BRIGHTNESS AND “ALWAYS ON” AND FIX ANY GHOSTING ISSUES?
Your input would be most welcome

Steham said:
Hi All
I have only been using these forums for a week but it is clear that a lot of people (like me) have concerns about how best to set up their G Watch R to avoid burn in, prolong battery life, etc. I have put together some of the advice that users have kindly given me. I’d welcome people’s input on this, to clarify anything I’ve missed and in particular answer the questions I have added below. It would great to set this up as a Sticky so new users could set their watches up correctly.
Colour Schemes
• ALWAYS use more green/red themes (and combinations - yellow, orange) because red and green are the most resilient OLED compounds.
• AVOID using BLUE in "always on" mode.
• WHITE has a lot of blue in it ... so, a long time of white theme usage will create burn-in in all colours, especially in the blue colour.
• Remember on OLED, black means "off". A mostly black watchface burns almost no juice.
• When you define a bright text or colour, look at the hex code of the colour : XXYYZZTT where XX is hexa code for transparency, YY is red level, ZZ is green level and TT is blue level. ... so try keeping the last two hex numbers in the low area, meaning below 100 (00 means 0, FF means 256, as colour intensity). – HOW TO DO THIS?
• HANDS AND HAND MAKERS ARE OFTEN WHITE, HOW CAN WE BEST USE THEM?
Style
• Avoid thick bright lines
• Keeping one pixel bright (because it's in the middle of a thick line) is something you absolutely need to avoid, for example, on analogue hands the middle won’t move.
• Display digital clock in small thin font
• Android wear shifts the whole face a few pixels in different directions every now and then to try to eliminate some of the burn in.
• If the respective elements are no more than 2 pixels wide, they will not cause that much burn-in because the dim mode pixel shifting will move that object around enough to let the main pixels "rest".
• The time, if is displayed in the analog style (with dials) will not cause burn-in because the bright part of the image is moving around so one can use brighter clock hands for this.
• WHAT ARE THE BEST STYLES TO USE FOR DIGITAL AND ANALOGUE?
Brightness
• NEVER use it at max (or high) brightness more than few seconds with a static image.
• Use very very VERY LOW brightness always on/dim mode.
• It's not constant illumination that is causing burn-in in the first place, but constant illumination with "high brightness".
• Default DIM mode of the Watch G is waaaaay to bright for the purpose of the "dim" mode - HOW TO CHANGE THIS?
• A black, transparent layer is needed on top of the dim mode in order to prevent this – HOW TO DO THIS?
• To adjust just the dim mode face only you'll need to use one of the face making apps and duplicate the parts and make a separate dim mode.
• HOW CAN WE BEST SET UP BRIGHTNESS FOR “ON” and “DIM” (USING APPS LIKE SWAPP TRUE DARK WEAR)?
Good Watchfaces
• Almost all the watchfaces from Smartwatch Bureau F01,F03, V01, V02... A45, A42.... have a setting for brightness in dim mode. So we can have a dim mode very dark and we can choose the face color for dim between 7 colors : green, blue, cyan, red..... so with this faces we can avoid easily all burn issue.
• Also the digital from Smartwatch Bureau which can be displayed in green in dim mode to avoid burning
• CAN PEOPLE OFFER SOME EXAMPLES OF GOOD WATCHFACES (INCLUDING CUSTOM FACES) AND DISPLAY SETTINGS THAT WOULD HELP TO AVOID BURN-IN?
Useful Apps
• SWApp True Dark Wear – to set the brightness below the lowest default on the watch
• Stuck Pixel Fixer for Wear app - Try running "stuck pixel fixer" for few hours, with the display set to max brightness. That should help getting rid of the ghosting and also will "age" your pixels in order to be able to display static images w/o burning.
• Mini Wear launcher – also allows you to set lower brightness setting
• CAN PEOPLE OFFER TUTORIALS ON HOW BEST TO USE THESE TO SET BRIGHTNESS AND “ALWAYS ON” AND FIX ANY GHOSTING ISSUES?
Your input would be most welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mate i think your over analysing ! its only a watch!
All i have done is change my watch face every day and use it as normal! ok i do have it set to screen off but even so i do think you can over worry about things like burn in. The majority of people who own these watches dont come on forums and i bet none of them suffer burn in!

And be honest, by the time it could get a problem you probably already got the other latest greatest. I bought it, use it and didn't even check if there's burn in. I change faces now and then, finished!

Steham said:
•CAN PEOPLE OFFER TUTORIALS ON HOW BEST TO USE THESE TO SET BRIGHTNESS AND “ALWAYS ON” AND FIX ANY GHOSTING ISSUES?
Your input would be most welcome
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could have given some credits for the source of information in the first post ....
As a tutorial: Create your custom watch face using WatchMaker or Facer (I also bought Facer to test it but I personally use WatchMaker because it's more versatile).
All the hex codes described above were in direct relation with custom watch faces or with image editors where you can choose all those parameters.
You can simply download a watch face that you like (for these custom build softwares) and learn from its internal settings.
Good luck with your new toy.

AMOLED Color: Which do you Prefer, Warmer Displays or Cooler Displays?

AMOLED Screens tend to differ from display to display, some users get displays presenting a warmer yellow color in presence of white while others get displays presenting a cooler bluish tint in presence of white.
Which presentation would you prefer in terms color appearances on AMOLED Displays (when using the Default Mode: Adaptive Display)? Warmer Displays or Cooler Displays?

I'll be honest when I say that 9300K "blue/cool" whites look more like true white to me, but the industry standards like sRGB, Rec. 709, etc. call for a 6500K "yellow/warm" white point and that leaves my hands tied when calibrating my displays for accuracy.
On that note, Android could use something like system-wide ICC profiles...

In Basic Mode, the display appears more yellow. However, in Adaptive Display, the display look "more cool."
Apart from these Modes, the displays are predisposed to a cool or warm tint, that makes the display appear either cool or warm (sometimes attributes to the pink or yellow tint in presence of whites).
NamelessFragger said:
I'll be honest when I say that 9300K "blue/cool" whites look more like true white to me, but the industry standards like sRGB, Rec. 709, etc. call for a 6500K "yellow/warm" white point and that leaves my hands tied when calibrating my displays for accuracy.
On that note, Android could use something like system-wide ICC profiles...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I'll be honest. I've never taken the time to understand AMOLED Technology. It was more the active matrix part but I'll be the first to vote that I didn't.

arjun90 said:
In Basic Mode, the display appears more yellow. However, in Adaptive Display, the display look "more cool."
Apart from these Modes, the displays are predisposed to a cool or warm tint, that makes the display appear either cool or warm (sometimes attributes to the pink or yellow tint in presence of whites).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm quite aware of the screen modes, but the white point color temperature and overall gamut (wider gamuts -> more saturation, deeper primaries) are only part of the whole color accuracy equation. The gamma is still far, far off from the 2.2 reference no matter what mode is used. Just open this up in your browser, then you'll wish you had some gamma adjustments somewhere on the Note 4. Maybe Lollipop will save us?
http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gamma_calibration.php
Overall, though, I'd say the most important thing is consistency, which is why standards exist. However, a lot of white LED-lit LCDs and such are much closer to those 9300K blue-ish whites. Mixing those up with some warmer 6500K yellow-ish whites is really jarring, and I can speak from experience there. I'd say for personal use, it doesn't really matter which you use so long as all your displays look consistent next to each other.

I prefer a bluer tint, but only slightly. None of this Xperia Z3 blow your face off blue.
I haven't seen a yellowish screen for a while though. The Note 4 I have leans towards Red or Blue and most other phones i've used lean from red to blue. Mainly red though.

I dislike 6500K, I always have.. For me 6500k white isn't white, it's yellow.

rj3005 said:
I dislike 6500K, I always have.. For me 6500k white isn't white, it's yellow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
been follwing this for quite time and yes I agree with your post. Being on the note 3 camp , it's the same **** on our end. Recently encho
has been implementing KCAL to aid with changing our color temperatures. More developers should make it a standard to include KCAL in snapdragons.

(Q) is posible disable the low bit mode

In some watchfaces, when the watch go into low bit mode (black and grey colors) it lost quality and I wish to have the colors always

Mine does the same, almost all watchfaces, any fix?

Nobody can do it maybe, if a know something i tell you, but I understand that is normal in this watch

drjuliocalderon said:
In some watchfaces, when the watch go into low bit mode (black and grey colors) it lost quality and I wish to have the colors always
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The black and grey mode is the "dimmed" version of the watchface, and is what the watch does when you set it to be Always On. Blacks save battery on the watch – however, if you want color, you're going to have to either find a watchface that supports colors on the dimmed version, or make your own. I use the app called WatchMaker, and you can customize which elements of a watchface to turn dimmed (black and white) or stay that way all the time.

What "Screen color" Setting do you use on you V40

I switched from my LG V30 to a V40 about 3 day's ago.
I like the things they improved on the phone like the camera's and the reflectiveness of the screen / min brightness.
The thing that i dont like is the color reproduction i just cant get it right. Web gives the best colors but they are washed out compared to the V30 on Cinema. Moving to Cinema colors are blown out of proportion.
Manual settings have the same issue. Saturation neutral is still to much. One step lower is slightly washed out.
When i think i got red on the right value for pictures compared to the V30 a white screen looks red. If i fix that pictures look to green.
What settings do you guy's use?

Left it on 'Auto'. Never one to over-obsess with minor issues. The display is good enough to do colors on its own.
Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk

Tried different ones Auto has been the best. It's a bit oversaturated but white point is good.

I see Auto setting still gives control over color temperature and RGB colors. You left those default? (neurtal and RGB maxed out?)
The cinema setting looks a bit more natural compared to Auto. (less overstaturation) And if i compare my picture to the real thing in real life the Cinema setting comes closer.

I believe I found better setting for myself to fix oversaturated display.
Expert mode, default color temperature, saturation and sharpness all the way down?

Found some extra information:
https://www.xda-developers.com/lg-v40-thinq-display-review/
Seems LG screwed up the Expert mode an almost all other color profiles. Googles does a better job using the same display.
Most accurate is the Web profile. Expert is not usable because color tempertature is above 7100K in all settings.
After web comes the Photo profile and after that Cinema. But that feels to overstaturated to me. While web lacks a bit of punsh. I guess that the UI was not made for the web mode and it looks understaturated because of that when using the web mode.
But for now i guess i will keep using web mode. I want to be able to see if the pictures that i take have the correct white balance and thats not possible in cinema mode. Faces look way to red. Same goes for photo but its less extreme.
Lets hope LG does a better job with the new android version later this year....
Out of the box the LG V40 ThinQ targets a cool and punchy color profile that is about 25% more saturated than our standard RGB color space. In the Auto and Expert profiles, it is possible to modify the display’s overall color temperature (albeit in a flawed manner) and to modify the relative reds, greens, and/or blues. The handset offers 6 other color profiles, and do provide profiles that accommodate the P3, Adobe RGB, and the sRGB color spaces. However, all three of the reference color profiles have a greenish-white point, and only the Web profile (which targets the sRGB color space) competently matches its target (though as seen in our Pixel 3 display analysis, LGD’s panels are completely capable of having near-perfect color accuracy with more adept calibration). Furthermore, none of the color profiles support Android’s color management, introduced in Android 8.0 Oreo, and even if it did, it wouldn’t mean much since almost no Android apps support it.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Starting at the profile with the most important color space to target, the Web profile does an alright job at reproducing the sRGB color space. However, as shown on the color accuracy plots above, the white point has a noticeable color error shifting towards green, which is also observable on the plot chart in the yellow, cyan, and cyan-blue color mixtures. Pure reds are also slightly oversaturated, but not too-noticeably so. Overall, the profile has an average color error ΔE of 1.7 and a maximum color error ΔE of 3.1 at 100% cyan-blue and 25% yellow, which is mostly accurate and acceptable for hobbyist-level sRGB color work in photos and video.
The Cinema profile, however, is not as accurate and contains a lot more colors with higher color differences. Almost all colors, besides the gamut primaries (100% red/blue/green), are oversaturated, and there’s noticeable error all throughout the reds, red-yellows, yellows, and greens. The white point shared with the Web profile is also too green. The profile has an average color difference that is considered just-noticeable (ΔE = 2.3), with a maximum error ΔE of 4.2 all around the red-yellow-green region. I would like to reiterate that this profile is meant for content that targets the P3 color space, and everyday use of it will result in content colors that will appear oversaturated.
The Photo profile is also not too good, beginning with the display’s green emitter not capable of reaching the full chromaticity of the Adobe RGB green primary; however, the 100% green color difference is not noticeable. Below 100% green saturation, however, there is noticeable color error with a high color error ΔE of 5.0 at 25% green. Yellows also show a lot of noticeable errors, a few other just-noticeable color differences are scattered throughout the gamut. The profile has an overall average color error ΔE of 2.1 (which is technically mostly accurate), but the high color errors the profile contains makes it unsuitable for color-critical work in the Adobe RGB color space.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Question Display problem

I'm using a super amoled display at low brightness I can notice Shades of dark gray aren't uniform. This is visible in darker environments (like in the bedroom at night).
This is most visible on Reddit dark mode. I can see it on Spotify if I look hard. Should I need to replace it or it's a problem with every super amoled display?