i have pictures to some of my contacts.
in the contacts tab they look very blury.
what is the best resolution for this function?
the best are 256x256 pixels, because builtin rom pictures of unknown callers has the same resolution
However, when in Contact Picture mode, the built in camera takes 240 x 320 pixels pictures, so I would gather this is more appropriate?
Try 240x240.
non of those, tried all.
I'm using 480*640 for favourite people... Beautiful and very crisp...
If you sync contact pictures from outlook you can change it from Favourite people screen soft "menu" key..
I use many size, dependin on what picture i have. Myself, I use resolution range from 98x98 to anything bigger.
Then the Trick is, you don't add picture at Outlook, but instead, add picture at TF3D contact. That will get make picture stay very clear and sharp.
I do found that, contact I add with picture resolution at 98x98 (or something around that, i have both 98x98, 99x98, etc) stays clear after I flash rom and need to re-add people. Bigger resolution picture i added that were sharp and clear; some became blury after re-add.
sudsboy said:
the Trick is, you don't add picture at Outlook, but instead, add picture at TF3D contact. That will get make picture stay very clear and sharp.
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Click to expand...
Click to collapse
great!!! that works.
There is a much easier way of doing this than resizing. You don't have resize any picture. I had the same problem until I discovered this very straight forward way.
1. Go photos and videos section of the touchflo.
2. click on the image you want to add to the a particular contact.
3. click on the image again once it appears by itself.
4. click on the icon on the far right, the menu icon.
5. select Save to Contact.
6. Choose the contact you want to assign the picture to.
You will have a very crisp picture.
Another method is this:
1. Go to the people section of your touchflo.
2. Add the contact you want to have appear there.
3. It will prompt to add a picture to the contact.
4. select one.
This will also appear as crisp.
If you already have the contact there all you simply change the picture using the menu. That should do it.
Thank you - that indeed works and the 3d pictures look nice and crisp.
Beats me what strange algorithm is behind that, but as long as it works...
I am having trouble with using custom wallpaper and need some input from you fine people. I understand our tab has a resolution of 1024X600 so plain, dumb redneck logic tells me a wallpaper image of that size will fill the screen perfectly and completely. However, that is not the case apparently.
If I put a 1024X600 image on the tab and select it as wallpaper, I am presented with a photo-cropping interface that FORCES me to crop the picture. OK, no biggie, it is high-quality at 300dpi, so I do that and it includes the whole picture I want displayed.
The problem comes when you actually go back to the home screen, the picture has been blown up so damn large that it only shows a small piece of the image.
Does anybody have any real specs on what format the wallaper needs to be in?
I've searched forever regarding this as well...and can't find a straigt answer. What's strange to me is that if you click on a picture on the web, and select set as wallpaper, it will be formatted relatively accurately (there's a little cropping, but not much) if you save the same photo, and set it as wallpaper through the setup screen, it's all zoomed in and cropped horribly.
I've used an app called Wallaby to set wallpapers. you can tell it to NOT resize the image you select, and it works OK.
Basically, what I've found is that even though the resolution is 1024X640, you actually need an image that's more line 1024 wide by 1920...the reason for this is that when you are presented with the "crop" screen, you select a box, but it will only actually show the top 1/3rd of that box as your wallpaper. If you make the box smaller, it will select the top 1/3rd AND zoom in. the odd part for my is that the box is not axis specific...you are only able to crop vertically AND horizontally, not one or the other.
If you pull out a wallpaper image from a rom, you'll see that it's REALLY tall, and the bottom 2/3rds are pretty much blank...that's how it needs to be made in order to look right on the tablet.
so, if you can locate an image that's 1024X1920, it will not zoom in, but it will only show the top 1/3rd of the image on the screen as wallpaper...
Hit up the market for MultiPicture Live Wallpaper. Free app. Easiest way to get the most of your wallpapers back in landscape. Most of the current versions of android are based around Portrait orientation so it crops to fit across a few smaller windows.
For those with newer devices that are landscape oriented, we get screwed. lol But, gladly this app is free to get what you need done at the very least. Has some other interesting features too, need be, but a lot are paid features, I think.
Hope this helps.
Flick ur pics from the market does a really fine job also.
Sent fom my OC'd CM7 gTablet
theclassicalgod said:
Hit up the market for MultiPicture Live Wallpaper. Free app. Easiest way to get the most of your wallpapers back in landscape. Most of the current versions of android are based around Portrait orientation so it crops to fit across a few smaller windows.
For those with newer devices that are landscape oriented, we get screwed. lol But, gladly this app is free to get what you need done at the very least. Has some other interesting features too, need be, but a lot are paid features, I think.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually have had multi-picture live since I first got the tab. It does something very strange with BoS. Multi-picture provides for screens 1-7 but the device shows screens 8-14 so it won't even configure correctly at all. I am sure it is the difference in res for screen.
Actually, I have been able to get both 1024X1024 and 1024X600 images to work with the regular wallpaper chooser. The problem comes after waking it up from sleep, the image is borked.
Tried Wallaby - absolutely worthless for me. Wallpaper Wizardrii is ok, but still difficult to work with.
I assign pics to my most frequent contacts and pin their tiles to the home screen. When I first get the new pic saved for them and showing on the tile it looks great...nice and clear. After time passes (not sure how long) the pic quality starts degrading. I found a thread here about someone's wallpaper doing that. Is my problem related? If so will that HD Wall app fix it? I'm just OCD about how stuff looks on my screen and if it looks like crap when I know it didn't before I gotta fix it
*EDIT* Just noticed that thread with I linked was for Android =/ gah nm
I was googling and ended up finding an article that mentioned Live tiles are 173px by 173px so I re-sized an image (ended up being 173x174 to preserve its aspect ratio) and assigned it to one of my contacts that has a tile on the home screen...guess we'll see if that keeps the image quality from degrading. Unless someone else knows for sure why this happens it'll be trial and error for now. So far the image is fine after an hour...only time will tell
Momomuffins said:
I was googling and ended up finding an article that mentioned Live tiles are 173px by 173px so I re-sized an image (ended up being 173x174 to preserve its aspect ratio) and assigned it to one of my contacts that has a tile on the home screen...guess we'll see if that keeps the image quality from degrading. Unless someone else knows for sure why this happens it'll be trial and error for now. So far the image is fine after an hour...only time will tell
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So far the re-sized (smaller) Live tile images have remained in good shape many many hours after the quality of the bigger images would start degrading. For all who care, I consider this work-around good enough for me
Hi All,
I am trying to test some image analysis applications with the Huawei P9. Is it possible to extract two images (one from each camera) from a single shot? I know one of the cameras has a monochrome lens, and I know how to obtain just the monochrome image, but it would be extremely valuable if I could obtain both images from just one shot.
Looking forward to your assistance,
Josh
I do not want to stop your enthusiasm, but from my tests, they don't exists two images from one shot.
I didn't do my tests with an engineering approach, I only did some empirical test and from these I gather that:
- when you setup the Monochrome mode, the P9 activates the left camera (on the left when facing the phone back)
- with all the other modes, the P9 activates the right camera (the one between the flash and the left camera)
The P9 doesn't create 2 images, than combine them, it just shot always 1. How I came to this conclusion? You can also try it at home:
I choosen few static subject and I made my photos with the phone on tripod, than I did many photoshoots in the normal way and also by covering alternately the 2 cameras with a black scotch tape.
Even by naked eye, even by using an image comparation software (I used Beyond Compare from Scooter Software) I found no difference at all, no more brightness, no more contrast, no better image definition.
I did in a bright environment, in a dark one, I enabled and disabled the PRO mode and I tried to do a testing more complete as I could (honestly, I omitted to test the image in RAW mode, I tested only JPEGs), but my conclusion is that the 2 cameras are doing a different job, but they are definetely NOT working together.
Thanks for testing, but did you also try this outside on a landscape view? Maybe then we will see other results?
Otherwise this is yet ANOTHER thing Huawei lied about.
Yes, I did.
I'm thinking about making a full post about photo comparation. Let's see
ScareIT said:
Yes, I did.
I'm thinking about making a full post about photo comparation. Let's see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be nice!
Hey guys. I did a quick test shooting in bokeh mode or aperture effect (I guess you know what I mean). If you cover the black and white lense it lets you shoot the picture BUT NOT edit the depth of field once you took the picture.
If you uncover the lense, it works like it is supposed and also stores the depth information (two lenses are crucial to get depth information).
Thus, in order to extract two images from one shot, the best guess is that you try it in bokeh mode. But even then I dont know if its possible. However, the phone definitely uses both lenses that time.
Great oTToToTenTanz!
I confirm that! Both cameras are essential to enable the wide aperture effect: when you try to shoot in the bokeh mode it appear an alert to check if the lens is clear, the blurred effect disappears and it's impossible to edit the depth in post-production.
I make 2 hypothesis:
- the phone really combines the 2 pictures in order to recreate the depth (is a strategy used in all the 3D cameras), so in some way there should be the possibility to get both pictures
- the phone uses the laser pointer to shot IR around the subject, then the monochrome camera will get the infrared information (and considering that its lens is without the RGB filter, will be very efficient to do that) and store them in order to obtain an accurate depth (I mean something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgrMVp7fMIE)
Nice things to try!
Additional Info on Depth
oTToToTenTanz said:
Hey guys. I did a quick test shooting in bokeh mode or aperture effect (I guess you know what I mean). If you cover the black and white lense it lets you shoot the picture BUT NOT edit the depth of field once you took the picture.
If you uncover the lense, it works like it is supposed and also stores the depth information (two lenses are crucial to get depth information).
Thus, in order to extract two images from one shot, the best guess is that you try it in bokeh mode. But even then I dont know if its possible. However, the phone definitely uses both lenses that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey oTToToTenTanz,
Really appreciate your (and everyone else's) help on this! Can you give me some more info on how you actually extract the depth info in a usable form e.g. a matrix? Does the image just produce an RGB-D image once saved?
Thanks so much,
Josh
Yes unfortunately I think this is simply a feature that huawei lied about. The phone doesn't actually use both lenses at the same time to produce better quality normal photos; the monochrome lens is only used for bw mode or to obtain depth information for the wife aperture mode. The two lenses are not used in conjunction to provide better low light performance. You can try it yourself as stated earlier in the thread, cover the bw lens with your finger and compare the photos with normal ones: they'll look the same...
As far as I understand it, there are two cases in which both cameras are used.
One is for the wide-aperture ("bokeh") mode, in which a depth map is created from both pictures that have a slightly different perspective. I've read somewhere that the resulting image is a normal JPG file that is way too large, so it seems that there is additional data after the end of the actual JPG image. This would also explain why the capability to adjust depth of field is lost once the file is opened and saved by any application. I'll have a look at such a file when I have some spare time; maybe I'll find out more.
The other case is landscape shots in low light. Several people reported that covering the second camera in this scenario results in much darker images. This seems like a silly limitation, but I believe I understand why it's there. The two images that the cameras take differ in perspective (obviously, due to the fact that the cameras are mounted next to each other), which is quite difficult to adjust for when trying to combine both sensors' data. However, when focusing at infinity, for example when taking landscape shots, the difference in perspective is negligible, so that in this case the two sensors' data can be easily combined to improve low-light performance.
Maybe it would be possible to combine both sensors' output at closer distances in a satisfactory way, but it seems that Huawei chose not to implement that. If I find a way to extract the second sensor's data from a wide-aperture image, I'll poke around a bit to see if it would be possible to combine them.
I did some poking around on my lunch break. I threw a wide-aperture image into JPEGsnoop and it came up with two images in the file (four if you count the thumbnails, as well), the first one being the processed, "bokeh" image, while the second is the original color image without any processing. I assume that this is the image that is used to re-process the wide-aperture image when editing the focus point or aperture through the gallery app.
JPEGsnoop also told me that there's more data after the image segments. Since it couldn't work out what that data is for (this is past the end of the actual JFIF file), I checked it out using a hex editor. I found a marker "edof" (extended depth-of-field?) followed by what looks like some header data, followed lots of repeating bytes. This block is about 1/16 the size of the image in pixels (so 1 byte for each 4x4 pixel block). I'm not sure whether that's a small greyscale version of the image itself or a depth map, but I suspect it's the latter.
So, I'm afraid that it will be impossible to extract the monochrome image sensor data from a wide-aperture image, as it's not there anymore.
PerpulaX said:
I've read somewhere that the resulting image is a normal JPG file that is way too large, so it seems that there is additional data after the end of the actual JPG image. This would also explain why the capability to adjust depth of field is lost once the file is opened and saved by any application. I'll have a look at such a file when I have some spare time; maybe I'll find out more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that: I did few shots on a single subject (always using tripod);
- the pictures in normal mode and with wide aperture with the BW camera covered results in 2.5 MB weight (max resolution; the photo's Title/Subject/Description is marked as "edh"
- the same subject in wide aperture mode (with the BW camera fully working) results in 5.5 MB weight (more than double); the photo's Title/Subject/Description is marked as "edf"; if this photo is opened with some image editing software, no alpha layers or other visual information appears anywhere; if the photo is saved back, the size will became comparable to the same photo without wide aperture effect
As depth information are not appearing in any editing software, I suppose they are hidden inside the jpeg file with some kind of steganography technique. I tried to examine the file with some ready-to-use tool (like stegdetect, that should be capable to detect if a jpeg file is standard or has something hidden) but I get only some mismatching header error, nothing that can let me understand where and how the depth information are stored and, primarily, if the black and white picture is also stored inside.
The cam seems to be making two Images for every shot. You can for - instance - make a picture and then edit it with the onboard effects. If i make the picture e.g. partially B&W, I can see, that it does use an original B&W picture taken with the original shot. This is not an artificial B&W.
The question is, where it is stored or are the necessary informations only "combined"?
PerpulaX, ScareIT you guys are right,
- the 992x744 depth map is coded on 8 bits at the end of the file, use HxD editor to extract the image (check the tags in ascii code "edof" & "DepthEn" ).
- displayed jpg is the saved one after blur processing on your sd card
- hidden jpeg in exif is the original image shot , without blur processing.
So it explains why you can re-edit your picture anytime on your P9 even after renaming... or simply have fun with the depth map for detouring in photoshop for instance
Made a python script to automate the EDOF and image extraction. It's simple but it works.
https://github.com/jpbarraca/dual-camera-edof
zoubla88 said:
PerpulaX, ScareIT you guys are right,
- the 992x744 depth map is coded on 8 bits at the end of the file, use HxD editor to extract the image (check the tags in ascii code "edof" & "DepthEn" ).
- displayed jpg is the saved one after blur processing on your sd card
- hidden jpeg in exif is the original image shot , without blur processing.
So it explains why you can re-edit your picture anytime on your P9 even after renaming... or simply have fun with the depth map for detouring in photoshop for instance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain what is possible to do in post-process? What can I do with the photo?
You can do exactly the same thing as the Huawei gallery app (at least).
For Photoshop there are plenty of tutorials using Depth Maps with the Lens Blur plugin
ScareIT said:
Yes, I did.
I'm thinking about making a full post about photo comparation. Let's see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Waiting for more details and experience sharing from you
Tijauna said:
Yes unfortunately I think this is simply a feature that huawei lied about. The phone doesn't actually use both lenses at the same time to produce better quality normal photos; the monochrome lens is only used for bw mode or to obtain depth information for the wife aperture mode. The two lenses are not used in conjunction to provide better low light performance. You can try it yourself as stated earlier in the thread, cover the bw lens with your finger and compare the photos with normal ones: they'll look the same...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hy!
I think, that P9 does take two pictures and combines them in low light conditions. Here is two example, when something went wrong with the combination of images, and the two images becomes visible: https://goo.gl/photos/cK5q2TEisEU7rmpz9
What do you think?
Abel
So the file size is increased when B&W is uncovered but gives no actual benefit to the picture? Damn it, as useless as Interpolation!