So, last night I wanted to try a passive antenna on my cappy because I get no signal at work. I was at home where I get 2 to 3 bars average. I popped the rubber plug out and carefully inserted the connector. I noticed no difference at all. I unplugged it and tried a second passive antenna that had no connector just bare wires so I inserted the center wire into the external antenna hole and again saw no noticeable difference so I pulled it out and set the phone down to take care of my mess. When I came back to it I noticed that I had no service at all. Now I have to be right next to a tower to even get 1 or 2 bars.
How could I have messed up the internal antenna just by using the external to test a passive antenna? Is there anything close to the internal antenna or the external connector that I could have touched with the bare wire that could have ruined my internal antenna?
Short answer yes and no. However without the correct adapter you can damage it and basically disconnect the internal antenna. Read this thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1011223
Related
This may not sound like a serious question , but it is,
in terms of the micro usb power connector into the phone, to remove it is it best to just pull it straight out with consequent greater pull forces on the phones internal connection, or wiggle it from side or side a bit to ease it out, reducing the pull but at the cost of introducing lateral forces.
Anyone thought about this or come to any conclusions with reference to how the internal mount is configured and connects to the rest of the chassis.
Never wiggle any connectors as it is bad for any socket and in future may happen that it will not hold the connector "tight enough" or damage it as well as the socket
Thanks for that advice.
OK, so please help me I'm going mad here!
I took my nexus one apart to replace the microusb port, which was totally crapped out. After putting the device back together i get very low WIFI signal although everything else is working. I took the phone apart and one of the mini pigtail connectors was unplugged and possibly a bit squished. I put it back on and it seemed fine. When i turned the device on the result was the same... Wifi works, but only short range.
This leads me to think the Coax w.fl connector is broken or possibly i damaged the WIFI antenna foil (it is somewhat deformed).
The w.fl connector is like the connector that connects the wifi aerial in your laptop, only smaller, if that helps.
I'd love it if someone could point me to a cheap antenna assembly or just the coax cable.
Even better if someone know of a device where this is sold as a complete part (antenna and coax) i could mount it behind the battery cover and possibly increase my signal!
This lack of wifi is such a pain as i live in a low signal area and rely on wifi for data/sync.
Thanks!
You can buy a 100cm coax cable terminated with W.FL connectors from RadioSpares in the UK stock number 619-6387
So like an idiot I dropped my phone in the sink, the top side (where the audio jack and USB charging port are located) got the brunt of the water on it. I took the battery out immediately, let it dry out, tried starting it and it would boot and get a signal (while making a loud screeching noise), then lose signal and start getting really hot. It also wouldn't charge via USB. I took it completely apart and cleaned the circuit boards with PCB cleaner, there were a couple of spots where the corrosion had started that was barely visible with the naked eye, but very evident through a 60x magnifier.
Once that was cleaned up I let it dry out again, booted it up and it's working perfectly now with the exception of the Wifi and Bluetooth. When I try to turn either one on it just says "Turning wifi/bluetooth on" but it never starts up. I'm assuming that the circuit and/or antenna that controls both of those functions is either corroded or fried. My question is, does anyone know whether the antenna or circuit board for wifi/bluetooth is replaceable, and/or does anyone have a map of the circuit boards that would direct me on where to look for corrosion?
jdgilbert said:
So like an idiot I dropped my phone in the sink, the top side (where the audio jack and USB charging port are located) got the brunt of the water on it. I took the battery out immediately, let it dry out, tried starting it and it would boot and get a signal (while making a loud screeching noise), then lose signal and start getting really hot. It also wouldn't charge via USB. I took it completely apart and cleaned the circuit boards with PCB cleaner, there were a couple of spots where the corrosion had started that was barely visible with the naked eye, but very evident through a 60x magnifier.
Once that was cleaned up I let it dry out again, booted it up and it's working perfectly now with the exception of the Wifi and Bluetooth. When I try to turn either one on it just says "Turning wifi/bluetooth on" but it never starts up. I'm assuming that the circuit and/or antenna that controls both of those functions is either corroded or fried. My question is, does anyone know whether the antenna or circuit board for wifi/bluetooth is replaceable, and/or does anyone have a map of the circuit boards that would direct me on where to look for corrosion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe they are on the main board, which is a significantly trickier replacement. If not, you could always get a used captivate for cheap (one with screen broken or something like that) and switch out the boards
I just got this tablet but I am having hard time finding any info about it.
It has 2GB ram and came only with Android (no dual os).
Any idea where can I learn more about it?(upgrade Bios, install dual OS, etc)
Specs
CPU: x5 Z8300
RAM: 2GB RAM
Storage: 32GB eMMC
model code: c2e3
Hardware name: cht_cr_mrd
build: V1.04_20160624
Android: 5.1.1 ( kernel 3.14.37)
wifi+bt chip: Realtek RTL8723bs (driver: 8723BS.ko)
Touch controller: Silead GSL3692
Audio Dac: ES8316
Case Images:
Software CPU-X:
Software CPU-Z:
Hardware Internals:
Bios:
To enter in Bios:
- connect a usb keyboard on the OTG usb port
- shutdown the tablet
- power up tablet - keep the power button 2 seconds pressed and release it.
- press repeatedly the ESC key until it enters BIOS.
I also opened up my tablet, C2D4, because of very poor internet connectivity, I noticed how antenna is soldered and I am guessing that there is a short in my case, so I will solder two separate cables instead of one and see how it goes...
Do you have any troubles with WIFI signal?
hello I bought this tablet I have a big problem. When I put any sdcard, I have always as volum 0.90 go. The sd with windos is no problem. Do you know how I can fix this problem please? Thanks for advance
veaceslav said:
I also opened up my tablet, C2D4, because of very poor internet connectivity, I noticed how antenna is soldered and I am guessing that there is a short in my case, so I will solder two separate cables instead of one and see how it goes...
Do you have any troubles with WIFI signal?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes the WiFi is a joke, although the signal looks good 3/4bars or 4/4bars the latency is huge > 800ms, packet loss and the bw is under 100kbps if I am not in the same room with the wifi-router. In the same room I get even 70mbps.
Regarding your mod, check first with a multimeter if there is indeed a short. I would not recommend using two separate wires to connect the PCB antenna you must use a coax cable for this since unshielded wire acts as a antenna themselve.
You could try soldering a 31.25mm(starting from the solder joint) non-shielded wire on the pad marked with + sign. In my case I saw around 10% improvement with this mod.
lupu said:
Yes the WiFi is a joke, although the signal looks good 3/4bars or 4/4bars the latency is huge > 800ms, packet loss and the bw is under 100kbps if I am not in the same room with the wifi-router. In the same room I get even 70mbps.
Regarding your mod, check first with a multimeter if there is indeed a short. I would not recommend using two separate wires to connect the PCB antenna you must use a coax cable for this since unshielded wire acts as a antenna themselve.
You could try soldering a 31.25mm(starting from the solder joint) non-shielded wire on the pad marked with + sign. In my case I saw around 10% improvement with this mod.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try to make a improvised coaxial with Ethernet cable and aluminium foil wrap... I do not have a multimeter..
So, after long tries of improving the Wi-Fi I am giving up. The speed of 22Mbps I achieved with the cover of, I can't make it when the cover is on. The damn plate is too thick and is killing all signal. I even soldered a wire to the plate. It didn't improve or worsen the signal. I put a wire with a razor blade wrapped in the plastic area and got a small improved.
I get at least some stable 5 Mbps when I used to get almost nothing. If I crack open a little bit the case, suddenly the speed is twice as fast.
Props to the Teclast guys, at least there was no short in antenna soldering. I wish I had a full plastic cover
Update: since I noticed that WiFi is better with the case open, I decided to get the antenna out. Not all of it, just the tip.
The antenna is glued with strong adhesive, but then it fits strong on the screen.
For me, I got a good improvement in speeds when the router is away.
Since Realtek chip is kinda bad, don't expect miracles. My phone with ac chip is still faster, even in N band.
Hi,
a few days ago, my good old Nook HD+ stopped charging and my PC won't detect it as well. When connected to powerbank/PC, only green light shows on besides charging connector.
It's most likely caused by corrosion in connector. I've bought two replacement cables, both of them don't work.
I've dissasembled my Nook and measured resistance between USB wires and matching pins on connector on motherboard. Power pins seem to be fine, but one of data lines had about 0.5 higher resistance than the other. I've tried cleaning the connector carefully with IPA and toothpick, but that didn't help.
Question is, what are the options? Is it possible to buy replacement connector?
If not, has someone tried replacing connector with microusb, that is by cutting and rerouting traces on motherboard so that it matches micro USB connector? I don't really care about HDMI/audio functionality, all I need is charging and file transfer.
I've placed motherboard into cheap ultrasonic cleaner with IPA for a few minutes and that fixed the issue. Connector works as before.
Only side effect of repair is, that my nook stopped booting CM 10 from SD card. But that another unrelated issue.