Running CM7 in EMMC nightly 177, all is well. Had the nook about a month. Amazed at what a cool little tablet this is after reflashing. My only lament is I wish the audio out the headset jack was at least decent. I do understand, this was built to be a reader, not an audio-anything. And I'm thinking more and more that's just how it is, forget Pandora, etc.
But I still have scant hopes of alternatives. I've read about host mode in Nook Tweaks, and that folks have at least powered or maybe recognized a FiiO E7 headphone amp/DAC, but I doubt that I can use any app to play high quality audio thru the usb....yet.
What about Bluetooth? Does the Audio sound any better?
First post, hope it gets some interest!
I can never get the audio out via bluetooth.
I've tried 3 different bluetooth headsets.
All have a common issue "paired but not connected"
There were a few threads about it, but I couldn't just get it through.
Some other members do have no problem though.
votinh said:
I can never get the audio out via bluetooth.
I've tried 3 different bluetooth headsets.
All have a common issue "paired but not connected"
There were a few threads about it, but I couldn't just get it through.
Some other members do have no problem though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I paired a Samsung HM3500 ($6 after rebate) which is an bluetooth
earpiece with a usb connection to stereo in-ear phones with a microphone.
Worked great until the battery went low, then the CM7 nook started
freezing the audio as the connection was lost and remade. This is on
a Color Nook booting CM7 nightly 177 off a SanDisk 4Gb class 4 uSD disk.
I have a generic bestbuy BT headset and the sound is great out of it! Not sure why I was able to get the sound, it's been working for me since nightly 38 or so, but I have NOT tried any of the recent nightlies or the RC for 7.1. As for the volume level, after I got Volume++ I thought it got pretty good sound. Of course other devices sound better, but like you said it' kind of a built in problem with the nook.
I did buy a Plantronics BT headset yesterday and haven't tried it with the nook. I'll try it later and post here if it works,
For some reason, I thought it's brand-dependent.
Pls try your Plantronics and let me know how it goes.
I just tried the Plantronics Voyager 520 2 days ago, didn't work
22jjones said:
Running CM7 in EMMC nightly 177, all is well. Had the nook about a month. Amazed at what a cool little tablet this is after reflashing. My only lament is I wish the audio out the headset jack was at least decent. I do understand, this was built to be a reader, not an audio-anything. And I'm thinking more and more that's just how it is, forget Pandora, etc.
But I still have scant hopes of alternatives. I've read about host mode in Nook Tweaks, and that folks have at least powered or maybe recognized a FiiO E7 headphone amp/DAC, but I doubt that I can use any app to play high quality audio thru the usb....yet.
What about Bluetooth? Does the Audio sound any better?
First post, hope it gets some interest!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm the one that connected the Fiio E7+L7 and another home dac
I tested the E7+L7 in my car and in first impression it sounded almost as good as my E-MU 0404 PCI card I have on my CAR-PC ( will do extensive testing when I'll install the nook )
You want better quality? get a better DAC
I don't see why BT will give better SQ , I think it will be way worse
As far as apps , PowerAmp seems to be doing it's job and playing FLAC's without any issues so I don't see the problem here
It's hard to even talk about audio quality (or video quality, food quality, film quality, book quality) without getting a baseline for what a person considers satisfactory, unsatisfactory, great or awful. Some people--possibly most people--are all but oblivious to most of their senses, but then there are some few aficionados of anything and everything under the sun.
I'm not much of an audiophile--Apple stock earbuds do not meet my standards, but most $20 in-ear phones (Skull Candy, Sony, loving my JVC Air Cushions) + iPod + mp3s do meet my standards. From that perspective, I find that adjusting DAC and headphone gain in Nook Tweaks brings the NC up to satisfactory performance for headphones (I can get reasonable fidelity at minor-hearing-damage volume levles), but still weak for line-out.
I've really used the NC a lot less for music than audiobooks, though, where sound quality is less of a concern.
Plantronics 320 does not connect.
Thanks for replies! I'm going to try PowerAmp and flacs. I guess one of my let downs was streaming Pandora or Naptser, but I realize now that even with wifi these are lower bit rate than from a PC. However, with Nook Tweaks and DSP Manager, I can get to a point that is ok.
You might want to stick to just Nook Tweaks for boosting gain. DSP Manager is still useful for equalizing, but layering PowerAmp's boost on top of DSP's boost on top of Nook Tweaks' boost may not be a good idea.
@Taosaur, I tried PowerAmp with flac and ape files last night, and ended up doing exactly as you recommended. DSP ended up turned off. This was my first look at PowerAmp, pretty sweet app. So I had just a little dac and headset gain increase on nook tweaks, and pretty high pre-amp along with eq in PowerAmp. Using a decent set of noise-cancelling buds from Audio Technica. Result is pretty nice! I was looping one song for about an hour while I tried different settings, Pink Floyd - Brain Damage. Now I can't get it out of my head. Not such a bad thing..
**New Info*** I went ahead and bought a refurb FiiO E7 for 69 bux. Charged it up and plugged it in the Nook usb and Viola! Pretty sweet improvement over headphone jack. So, yes, you get a USB DAC, plug it in, and usb audio out comes to life. The FiiO E7 is ideal for this because it is a DAC and Amp in one small package. So virtually no annoying hiss, plenty of gain without distortion, much fuller overall sound, and way more total volume than you can handle. Only prob is at times the audio gets little skips/clicks when the Nook display is busy, I think. Either that or my sd card reading is causing it. I'm on a 16GB class 10, and I read somewhere the higher class cards can be troublesome compared to class 4's.
To recap setup, CM7 recent nightly+Nook Tweaks USB Host Mode.
I'm guessing you need to route that through a powered hub, right? Does it work if the hub is not plugged into the wall?
If you haven't moved any apps to SD and aren't running your OS from SD, I'd be surprised if it's causing you any problems.
No hub! The E7 has it's own battery power, lasts forever. Just a cable with an adapter. I'm running in emmc, build 206. I'll check sdcard, i think i may have put an app on it at one point.
usb "sound cards"
There are a whole raft of cheap usb sound interfaces - equivalent to a sound card on a desktop machine. I got one on ebay for 7$, stereo headphone output is pretty good with the nook. There are 5.1 and 7.1 devices advertised too.
Unfortunately, the sample rate used for the mic differs from that used for playback, so whatever I record via mic plays back in very slo-mo.
I understand that somebody has found a device whose mic input works with the nook, but I had no luck finding exactly what he described.
I'm very interested in the voice input side, both for speech-to-text and for comms, especially skype. Anybody have any new info?
Is there a way to use the Fiio e7 and continue to power the Nook using the stock USB cable?
I am using the NC as a headunit in my car and i would love to have the e7 as my DAC, but I would need to have continuous power for the NC.
Any Ideas?
I can only suggest you plug the NC in when you park the car. I'd say an hour or two per day would be MORE than sufficient to run off the battery the rest of the time. Inconvenient yes but I think all tablets will suffer from this problem (sucky internal codecs and only one power connection which is also shared with any usb host).
22jjones said:
No hub! The E7 has it's own battery power, lasts forever. Just a cable with an adapter. I'm running in emmc, build 206. I'll check sdcard, i think i may have put an app on it at one point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excuse my ignorance...what kind of adapter do you need for this?
Thanks!
Double C said:
Excuse my ignorance...what kind of adapter do you need for this?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Either microUSB male to full USB female to plug straight into the NC, or full USB female-to-female to put on the end of the cord.
Double C said:
Excuse my ignorance...what kind of adapter do you need for this?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case, the FiiO has a mini usb port, and i use adapter on the FiiO. So I have FiiO > mini usb to full usb female adapter > full male to micro usb cable > Nook.
Related
Nexus 7 Head-unit Install
Hi all, long time reader, first time poster. I'm working on a Nexus 7 Car Head-unit install, and figured I would post my working through the install, hardware, software, and kinda just help all the tons of people I see out there who have the same idea, but just have no idea how to go about it.
This is ment to be half a tutorial (once everything is done) and half a brainstorming to give me idea's for things I haven't thought of or considered. I'll be coming back and updating this OP with pictures, and the build as it gets worked on.
Goals of the Install
I want to be able to run my entire car off the Nexus. I have already set up wifi tethering from my S3 to get internet into the Nexus, and thus open up a realm of possibilities. Necessary features are Nav, and Music. I rarely call from my car, but in car calling would be a nice feature to have as well. I also go out to the track ever now and again, and adding car stats (boost, RPM logging, acceleration, mapping) would be great. The biggest reason to do the install is that one the hardware is configured, you literally have a ultimately customizable setup that will take years to outdate.
The Hardware
1 x 2003 Subaru WRX
1 x Nexus 7
1 x Samsung Galaxy S3 (T-Mobile)
1 x MRX-V60 - Alpine 5-Channel Subwoofer Amplifier
1 x 7 Channel Equalizer
lots of hacked wiring
The Software
This is where I would love some feedback on on what I may be missing, better solutions to what I have suggested, and just some general awesome idea's!
Music:
Pandora, Play Music, DI.fm, Soundcloud, Radio.com
In Car Phone/Text:
Talkatak, Google Voice
OBDII Support: (Future Project)
Right now this is not a nessiacty as the hardware to do this could get very tricky. However I know I can read from the OBDII port with a bluetooth OBDII dongel and an app like Torque Lite. However I do own a tatrix cable, and am considering if it would be possible to go from the USB to the tablet, and find an app/write one what allows for the tablet to control the car in real time.
Nav:
Google Navigation, Local
Track Apps:
aLapHD
The Two Builds
There are two ways to go about this. The first would be the simple and easy way which is to hack together a charger wired to the power source of the car, and use that to keep the tablet charged. Then run a 3.5mm audio into the amp, and have sound run from there. There are a few issues with that. 1. There will be no volume control, as the Tablet's buttons will be part of the center console. I suppose I can run a controller to the amp, that will let me adjust volume. 2. This will not allow for the possibility of adding OBDII support.
The second option is to purchase a micro USB dock that does audio out. Hack it apart, and run the audio to the amp, and the power to the power. This would be necessary if I want to do a full USB ODBII connection (I believe, please tell me if I'm wrong), and would be much "cleaner" when it comes time to take the tablet out of the car for any reason (hardwire sync, parking in the "ghetto").
What I need Help with
Have any idea's. Tried something similar and have some tips. Have suggestions for apps, hardware configurations I haven't listed, or just generally want to say "sick man". Please let me know. I would love to have some people who are also interested in doing this join in on my build, and we can work together to eliminate any issues to make tablet installs easier. I will be coming back and updating this OP throughout the entire process so please look for updates!
Thanks All!
(reserved for pics)
Check out a half-DIN equalizer or crossover to solve your volume, fading, equalizing concerns... can't post a link because this is first post!
I'd like do do this in the future... I hope someone comes out with a custom set of apps that make this really cool and easy... maybe even a custom ROM.
Basically what I'd want out of this is:
Auto-on with power. Auto off after 10 minutes of no power. FM radio tuner. Maybe the ability to connect a rear-view camera (wifi?). Bluetooth OBDII would be good enough for me.
I'd also appreciate the ability to connect to at least one camera and use it as a DVR, but I think that it would probably be beyond feasibility with the Nexus 7...
What I really want to see is the ability for the Nexus to be a full Bluetooth head unit. I want it to pair with my phone for both internet (already do this, works great) and have it act as a headset essentially. This is the part that appears to not exist anywhere. The ability for the Android Tablet to act as a hands free device. I mean if a car stereo can fully integrate with your phone read your address book, start and answer calls hands free, stream music, everything from your phone then why the heck not the tablet! Someone needs to write the BT stack that can handle that. Apparently it doesn't exist for android. It exists for Windows, but not Android. That is just wrong. Are there any car stereo head units running Android as their OS? If so can someone dump their rom so we can see what all it can do for a project like this?
I really want this!
I have had mine in the dash for a couple weeks now, streaming Bluetooth to the radio which I relocated, also using NFC sticker to turn on WiFi, bluetooth , set audio volume, screen brightness and start playing music. Tasker to put unit into car mode, its sick! I'll be following, really interested to see what you come up with. My car is N 06 altima and the Nexus 7 fits almost like a glove where factory stereo use to be.
Nexus 7 in altima
sneakk said:
I have had mine in the dash for a couple weeks now, streaming Bluetooth to the radio which I relocated, also using NFC sticker to turn on WiFi, bluetooth , set audio volume, screen brightness and start playing music. Tasker to put unit into car mode, its sick! I'll be following, really interested to see what you come up with. My car is N 06 altima and the Nexus 7 fits almost like a glove where factory stereo use to be.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi!
Can you upload a picture of your install? I own a altima and I am looking to install the Nexus 7 on my dash as well. And also, did your factory stereo have bluetooth? If not, what are you streaming bluetooth to?
Thanks
Just gonna subscribe as I thought of doing something similar
Sent from my LG-E739 using Tapatalk 2
Look into this thread
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/152658-nexus-7-android-in-a-2001-audi-s4.html
here's a video also
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdLi9wCFZ7M
timskyline86 said:
Look into this thread
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/152658-nexus-7-android-in-a-2001-audi-s4.html
here's a video also
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdLi9wCFZ7M
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If anyone can post on his site, tell him to connect two middle pins in usb plug, then it will start charging from the lighter socket.
Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2
Does anyone know of a micro USB dock/cable that then splits to power, usb, and audio? I know of one's that will do 2 of the three, but nothing that does all three. Maybe just a USB and power one, and run the audio straight out of the 3.5mm on the N7.
Amp was ordered, and will be here next week. Prelimanary fitment pics coming soon...
Hello, I'm considering permanently mounting a nexus 7 in my car. It seems like the perfect in car device.
With this in mind I have updated my CarHome Ultra app to better accommodate the Nexus 7 screen. I will be posting a new video soon showing it running on the 7.
I've looked at doing this as well, I've always been prevented by the issue of the FM radio. I use the car a lot in places where I get no or poor connection via the phone, but the radio works fine, so loosing it would not be an option as I use the FM radio quite alot.
I've been trying to figure out away to control an FM radio via the Nexus so if anyone out there has any info it would be greatly appreciated.
Jonnym
Jonnym said:
I've looked at doing this as well, I've always been prevented by the issue of the FM radio. I use the car a lot in places where I get no or poor connection via the phone, but the radio works fine, so loosing it would not be an option as I use the FM radio quite alot.
I've been trying to figure out away to control an FM radio via the Nexus so if anyone out there has any info it would be greatly appreciated.
Jonnym
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Load a hand full of mp3s on the device. Then use Tasker to switch to switch to your favorite music player when reception is bad
Sent from my LG-E379 running ICSyndicate 2.0
I am actually currently doing a very similar project with a Nexus 7 and my Nissan 350z
I am planning on installing the Nexus 7 inside my dash (to replace sat nav dash)
HOWEVER
what about routing the power button on the tablet? Because If you cant access the power button the tablet will only get power when the car is on and if you dont use the car for a day or two the tablets battery would go flat and next time you turn on the car the tablet would go into charging mode (screen with charging battery only) and not boot up into android jelly bean.
Theres 2 potential solutions:
1. Open the tablet and wire the power button to a custom one, however on opening it I have found the button is actually a physical push press button and cannot be wired.
2. There is potential to change a file on the android system to tell the tablet to boot up when a charger is plugged in, check these threads:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1187631
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1815131
Any updates from the OP?
Here's my install. Kept the factory radio intact, if not using the nexus, everything looks totally stock.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1847452
regalpimpin said:
Here's my install. Kept the factory radio intact, if not using the nexus, everything looks totally stock.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1847452
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What OBD ll connector are you using?
tallyforeman said:
What OBD ll connector are you using?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
xitech xr7 purchased off amazon over a year ago.
http://www.amazon.com/XiTech-ELM327...TF8&qid=1347466620&sr=1-3&keywords=xitech+xr7
Never had any problems with it.
Despite working in the car industry and loving gadgets and mod-ing...I haven't really seen what people are up to these days in terms of car mods. The Nexus 7 makes so much sense and looks great!
Hey all
Just to add to the discusion;
Radio/DAB
Frontier silicon are the only company that I can find that do an app that can control an external radio and stream it's signal to the tablet as opposed to picking up the signal over the cellular network.
App:
Their page
http://www.frontier-silicon.com/products/software/DOK_App.html
Play store
http://tinyurl.com/d24gwm4
Module:
http://www.frontier-silicon.com/products/modules/briefs/Venice6_PB.pdf
now the problem with this is, aside from building the module in somewhere' the audio out as it feeds out of the module, but I was thinking I could use some form of y split cables near to my amps 'in'.
Media storage and playback
As far as storage for everything video/audio atc and a player to match I was thinking of useing xmbc
http://xbmc.org/
andriod port;
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1813089
and pairing this with a WiFi DLNA HDD that I would wire in remoted off (say in the boot)
GPS
For improved gps I was going to use an external bluetooth gps reciver then allow mock locations on the tablet, there are also a few apps that help with this.
This app seems to have good support and a nice help page.
App:http://tinyurl.com/a9s7gvo
An example of a external GPS receiver
http://tinyurl.com/a339vu7
Hands Free
The only work round I seem to have found atm though far from perfect is this
http://www.scosche.com/consumer-tech/product/1919
it allows you to to 'cut in' the audio stream, but (can't fins the tread now will keep looking) the guy who was playing round with this was having audio issues.
not an idea solution but workable.
before my mind starts melting again;
How I plan to implement the tablet is to use tasker to wake the tablet when power is supplied then shut of down after, if I disable all kinds of connectivity when tablet shuts down then reactivates when it wakes up everything should run smoothly. Power will be cut because I'll wire in the ignition live, like you do in a stereo anyway, an this shouldn't put a drain on my battery to much, an if the dash build is good it shouldn't be too much of an issue extracting the tablet to hard boot anyway.
Volume and Audio
Volume and audio quality is another issue that needs to be addressed.
http://tinyurl.com/d2zbbnf
Seems like an ok work round.
Another way would be to install a direct in-line volume control as suggested in other threads, and put in an external DAC or hardwired EQ.
On a side note I came across this........ http://www.crutchfield.com/p_773AIRDAC/NuForce-Air-DAC-Receiver.html?tp=59282 ........ although you need to use their plug in senders but I'm sure this can be worked round with the knowledge on this forum, an would provide a very nice solution. then again there are quite a few bluetooth devices around. this probably wouldn't allow for in-line controls though.
well thats it for now, hope this helps push this forward to a working system
ben
nice build thread containing alot of theses ideas;
http://www.mp3car.com/worklogs/152658-nexus-7-android-in-a-2001-audi-s4.html
Hi All,
I have an AT&T Nexus 6 and I am trying to stream USB audio out to my car stereo. When doing so I am hearing clicking and popping in the audio. I thought it was possibly a ROM/kernel issue but I am fully back to stock & locked and the problem still exists. Audio via mini stereo jack (aux) works fine of course, as does sound coming out of the phone's speakers, headphones, etc. I have tested 2 other android devices (Nexus 4 and Samsung Nexus 10) and USB audio is working perfectly fine in my car.
If anyone has any guidance on how to troubleshoot this it would be great. This is strange to me as USB audio out was added as a software update, so I find it very odd that it works on my older devices and but not the N6. If I can't get this figured out I will have to schedule an appointment at an AT&T warranty center to likely exchange my 35-day-old phone for a fecking refurb
Thanks for any help guys, cheers!
I RMA'd my Nexus 6 and the replacement behaves the exact same way. Other non-Nexus 6 devices tested work just fine.
Has anyone actually used streaming USB audio other than me?
rbross3030 said:
I RMA'd my Nexus 6 and the replacement behaves the exact same way. Other non-Nexus 6 devices tested work just fine.
Has anyone actually used streaming USB audio other than me?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What app are you using to stream? I tried, but do t know if my radio wont accept it or not. I know I can't read movies from my phone or flash drive.
Sent from my Nexus 6
Casper34 said:
What app are you using to stream? I tried, but do t know if my radio wont accept it or not. I know I can't read movies from my phone or flash drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The idea behind USB audio streaming is that you don't need to use an app. The device streams any and all audio out of the phone via USB rather than out of the speakers. This means that you can use Spotify, Youtube, Pandora, PlayerPro, etc. while connected to your car stereo via USB and have the audio in your phone played through your car speakers in lossless digital. This is a feature that was introduced in Android 4.4 but seemingly is saught out by nobody but me.
Prior to USB audio out, these were common options/solutions, all with drawbacks:
1. Plug into the headphone jack which is an analog signal prone to noise, interference, and muddy EQ.
2. Plug into USB and Android will automatically mount your phones sdcard partition the same way as USB thumb drive. This only works for playing media files that are saved directly to the phone. All other sounds/apps do not work through as the phone's audio hardware is not being used. This means no Pandora, Spotify, etc. and no controlling music from the phone. Casper, your radio is probably trying to mount your N6 this way – most car stereos do and are not expecting have a device connected that is outputting its own hardware-driven digital audio stream.
3. Bluetooth. This was the best solution as it uses the phones audio hardware and thus all audio is output the same way as the new USB out feature. The drawback to this is that bluetooth uses lossy-compression and so is lower fidelity than option #2, though A2DP has made quality far better than it once was.
If you can't already tell, I'm sort of a fidelity nazi and this is why I'm so desperate to find a solution to this issue at hand with the Nexus 6 USB audio out that noone seems to know exists.
Any update on this? I just got my Project Fi Nexus 6 and I am regretting not doing more research on the USB streaming in the car. The iPhone 6 worked flawlessly and I could change songs with my car (I just lacked good service). The car usb won't even recognize my google play albums downloaded to my phone BUT it will pull up my zedge ringtones. Every time I try to fool around with it, it just keeps looping my Mario ringtone through my car speakers lol. But seriously, any suggestions. I am so desperate.
ericajm85 said:
Any update on this? I just got my Project Fi Nexus 6 and I am regretting not doing more research on the USB streaming in the car. The iPhone 6 worked flawlessly and I could change songs with my car (I just lacked good service). The car usb won't even recognize my google play albums downloaded to my phone BUT it will pull up my zedge ringtones. Every time I try to fool around with it, it just keeps looping my Mario ringtone through my car speakers lol. But seriously, any suggestions. I am so desperate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I gave up and went with using bluetooth. Cost me another $120 in bull**** hardware that Grom Audio sells to make this "upgrade" possible. Quality is **** compared to what it could've been as well... sigh... first world problems
I have a Grom USB2 and a Galaxy S4 that I just upgraded from 4.4.1 to 5.0.1 (Goldeneye ROM). I successfully streamed USB with KitKat (Grom has a configure file that enables their unit to do this) but have been unable to do the same thing with Lollipop. I did the *#0808# thing and tried several settings but nothing has worked. Any ideas?
I have already got MK808 android stick, which is 1.2 GHz dual core with Mali 400 GPU.
After using it long as general purpose device, decided to convert it as media centric device, with 2.1 speaker setup
I am facing following limitations,
1. Not able to play HD/1080 videos smoothly
2. Tried USB sound card to connect it to 2.1 speaker, but quality is not good
So I started to look for alternate devices. I liked RPI 2 especially due to it's support, but before buy, I have some questions unanswered
1. Since I have 1.2 GHz device, I am just wondering with RPI 2 being 900 MHz, is it powerful enough device as media PC. Especially can we consider it for future proof (may be 3 years)? I am thinking because, I don't want to fall in situation to buy another device only after next 1 year due to RPI2 limitation.
2. When I add case, WiFi dongle, power cable, HDMI cable etc, it's going to about 75 USD. At this price, there are many choices like,
# Android stick MXIII, which seems more powerful with android support
# Dedicated media player like,
http://www.amazon.in/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=media+player
But I don't know, how to compare those with RPI 2 and conclude which one will be more powerful and future proof
Any suggestion?
RmatriX1218 said:
I have already got MK808 android stick, which is 1.2 GHz dual core with Mali 400 GPU.
After using it long as general purpose device, decided to convert it as media centric device, with 2.1 speaker setup
I am facing following limitations,
1. Not able to play HD/1080 videos smoothly
2. Tried USB sound card to connect it to 2.1 speaker, but quality is not good
So I started to look for alternate devices. I liked RPI 2 especially due to it's support, but before buy, I have some questions unanswered
1. Since I have 1.2 GHz device, I am just wondering with RPI 2 being 900 MHz, is it powerful enough device as media PC. Especially can we consider it for future proof (may be 3 years)? I am thinking because, I don't want to fall in situation to buy another device only after next 1 year due to RPI2 limitation.
2. When I add case, WiFi dongle, power cable, HDMI cable etc, it's going to about 75 USD. At this price, there are many choices like,
# Android stick MXIII, which seems more powerful with android support
# Dedicated media player like,
http://www.amazon.in/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=media+player
But I don't know, how to compare those with RPI 2 and conclude which one will be more powerful and future proof
Any suggestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have been using Raspberry Pi 2 B+ for a month as media center with the Rasplex OS. I have tried 1080p, 720p and a few different formats like mp4 mkv, avi etc and they all work fine, even while seeking. The main reason for this could be that the processing/trans-coding of the video is done on the server(the files are not stored on Pi, and no HDD is connected to it.) This all works on a WiFi adapter.
If You can use Plex app on Your Android Stick and use a plex server somewhere, You won't need to buy a Pi. Although You would need to buy Plex pass to come over restriction in Android app I think.
Rpi 1 can run almost limitless video bitrate via smb share. But it has issues with very heavy audio since 1 pi's processing power is not great basically. But mines 1 still run movies with 10mbps video and 5mbps audio well. Above that it starts to buffer maybe its network bottlenecking. Audio quality via hdmi is great. I got a pi 2 just a while ago looking forward to test it with openelec. I have chromecast stick too i think that i wouldn't need rpi if i didn't had media at local share. Chromecast is far more better if u use only netflix, viaplay, youtube, popcorn, etc and can use it with android device phone/tablet.
Thanks for replies.
Has anyone connected it to 2.1 speaker system?
Because, that is my one of the aim.
Can anyone tell quality if connected to AV cable/stereo jack?
And, is it possible to get video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable to 2.1 speaker?
Can someone, who already have similar configuration, help me out to build similar one.
RmatriX1218 said:
Thanks for replies.
Has anyone connected it to 2.1 speaker system?
Because, that is my one of the aim.
Can anyone tell quality if connected to AV cable/stereo jack?
And, is it possible to get video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable to 2.1 speaker?
Can someone, who already have similar configuration, help me out to build similar one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it can output both video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable at the same time.
Nypan sr said:
Yes, it can output both video through HDMI cable and audio through AV cable at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How do you rate quality through AV cable out?
I believe, AV out doesn't give good quality as HDMI.
Through USB sound card on my MK808, I am loosing bass. Woofer doesn't give any sound.
I am worried, same should not be with RPI as I'll loose all fun of watching movies.
Anybody with 2.1 speaker setup hear?
RmatriX1218 said:
How do you rate quality through AV cable out?
I believe, AV out doesn't give good quality as HDMI.
Through USB sound card on my MK808, I am loosing bass. Woofer doesn't give any sound.
I am worried, same should not be with RPI as I'll loose all fun of watching movies.
Anybody with 2.1 speaker setup hear?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDMI is better. My 2.1 system is connected to my LG-tv, so i dont know what quality the 3,5 mm output is.
Nypan sr said:
HDMI is better. My 2.1 system is connected to my LG-tv, so i dont know what quality the 3,5 mm output is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, my LED TC has onlu audio jack. So, if I connect 2.1 system with it, I get very low volume.
So, only option to get sound from RPI AV jack.
Can you check in your system with AV jack and report the difference in output?
Any though on
RPI2 vs MXIII vs MXQ?
RmatriX1218 said:
How do you rate quality through AV cable out?
I believe, AV out doesn't give good quality as HDMI.
Through USB sound card on my MK808, I am loosing bass. Woofer doesn't give any sound.
I am worried, same should not be with RPI as I'll loose all fun of watching movies.
Anybody with 2.1 speaker setup hear?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Composite video out quality is pretty good. On OpenELEC, playing 720p live stream Russia Today. Output is classic PAL resolution. Image quality is better than 576p SD DVB-S thru SCART with good quality sat reciever. I have big old widescreen CRT Panasonic Quintrix TV.
If you play any 720p movie, quality will be comparable to DVD player with SCART.
I dont know how is your audio input for these 2.1 speakers. Just single 3 pole 3.5mm or also separate one for subwoofer? If it need 2 connectors then you need 5.1 sound card with (usually orange) center/subwoofer connector.
I think you should turn up your headphone volume on your tv
Sent from my thl T6S using XDA Free mobile app
Ideal for local media or media on a NAS but not being able to access Netflix, Hulu etc (like you can on Android) might be a bit of a put off. Shame really coz the Pi2 is more than powerful enough to support these streaming services
TL;DR Auxillary and bluetooth have much lesser quality than USB. Video links below show stereo head units that support Android USB audio with app control for the best quality connection (Spotify, Pandora, Google Play Music via USB in your car!) These are single DIN head units without AA.
For audiophiles such as myself, auxiliary cables or Bluetooth is unacceptable when connecting to my car audio system. With these methods, the phone acts as the digital to audio converter instead of the head unit thus greatly reducing sound quality on a high end system. With a USB connection, the phone only acts as storage and a music player while the head unit acts as the DCA.
Finding head units that have a compatible USB connection to android devices has been very difficult in the past. I resorted to storing all my music on an old iPod touch to get Spotify working with my car through USB. The new Android Open Accessory 2.0 is changing that.
I have found a few of youtube videos demonstrating Android USB plug and play connection with two different modes:
App control: Spotify, Pandora, iHeartRadio, Google Play Music ect. (Yes SPOTIFY!!!)
MTP: browse local music files.
- supports basic functions such as play/pause/next/prev
- should work with android version 4.1+
- beware: some head unit models require a software update which can be installed through usb.
- warning: these videos only show connection to nexus phones, meaning if your phone isn't running google edition AOSP, it could cause problems.
- note: AOA 2.0 is different than the android audio update with lollipop, which was meant to allow connection to a separate external DCA via USB OTG.
- more info about the 3 types of android USB connection found in this thread: http://forums.androidcentral.com/an...3-will-android-l-allow-usb-audio-out-car.html
Videos with demonstration:
Pioneer DEH-X2800UI
https://youtu.be/gssbmXJ2pzw
Pioneer DEH-X3800UI
https://youtu.be/dztgOvrUnSE
Pioneer DEH-X5800HD
https://youtu.be/kReFemy4UmU
JVC KW-R910BT
https://youtu.be/h1n6WVefhKc
There are undoubtedly many other head units that support AOA 2.0, but these have video proof!
I have a Nexus 5x, I just ordered the Pioneer DEH-X3800UI for $75 on Amazon.
Ill have the head unit installed within the next week, and will give an update.
Hello Android USB Audio! Goodbye and good riddance iPod touch!
I'm hoping somebody has bought one of these headunits & can confirm how well it works.
Does it essentially work like a USB DAC would & all audio including waze, Poweramp youtube all play through the headunit and speakers?
edit: I found the answer, yes ALL audio goes through the headunit. See here:
go to 5:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyOh32a-cY8
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
ibCurlyFry said:
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
s2g-unit said:
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
ibCurlyFry said:
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
s2g-unit said:
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
ibCurlyFry said:
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've posted on a few car audio boards. Nobody seems to ask this in the past becasue everybody in the past used ipod via usb. Bluetooth if they dont care about quality.
I think in most cases like you said, the response was negative to using AUX but thats because of the headphone jack / internal DAC as you know.
I'm just curious like you to know how much we would loose by using AUX. Maybe some will say it's because of another D/A conversion but can anybody really tell? I'll wait for some answers.
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
s2g-unit said:
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh... I never said that he "needed" AA. I am certainly not an expert on head units and am not a claimed audiophile but based on what the requirements were, I don't see a reason why AA can't work. It is simpler to setup, includes spotify support, as well as a more cohesive and unified interface. Based on the issues getting audio over USB to work I think AA is a good alternative.
I'm not sure how DDs have less processing power but if you need such a thing, just add a DSP. I personally am fine with just an amp. Seems very extreme to claim them as toys. I wouldn't be so prejudiced...
Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
ibCurlyFry said:
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
mikereidis said:
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didnt come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
ibCurlyFry said:
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didn't come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
s2g-unit said:
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres actually alot more than i thought, heres a more complete list:
JVC models: http://www.jvc.net/cs/car/firmware/2014/aoa/
Kenwood models: http://www.kenwood.com/cs/ce/aoa2/
Pioneer models: DEH X2800UI, X32800UI, X3800S, X4800BT, X5800HD, X6800BT, MVH X380BT
ibCurlyFry said:
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed that is a good point. My unit basically cost the same as what I paid for my speakers and amp. I wish you luck on finding a solution!
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
ibCurlyFry said:
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
s2g-unit said:
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds good
Just note the problems i had were occurring when i connected to a AOA 2.0 compatible head unit only via USB (USB A to micro USB).
Not with USB OTG or a USB hub. Idk if it works that way, but let me know
In all my previous phones, I've always had root for 2 things. Viper4Android (or ARISE) and Adaway. I can deal with the ads because to get to sites like couchtuner I just use the plethora of available adblock apps for the Samsung browser app. However, I cannot listen to the utter crap audio output of the S8 in its factory unrooted state.
If Viper4Android needs root access to the system partition to bypass the standard linux ALSA driver for sound adjustment, then how does Poweramp bypass it without root? See for yourself. If you use the standard (or any other music player without an EQ) and go into sound properties and adjust the software EQ under Settings --> Sounds and Vibration --> Sound Quality and Effects, the EQ changes the sound. However, if you install and run Poweramp, then when going to this EQ setting, it does not change the sound.
Here's my beef. The Samsung 'system wide' software EQ - when adjusting it, all it's doing is lowering the gain and boosting only that one frequency so your actual volume output is reduced to prevent clipping. On a rooted phone with V4A installed, this does not happen. It truly raises or lowers those specific frequencies. Does the API in Android Nougat prevent anything other than software manipulation? My main use for V4A is to use the "Dynamic System" feature to give more low end boost when the volume is not high, as well as adjusting harsh frequencies. V4A is sheer bliss on the V20. This also works extremely well in vehicles.
Your retort to this is naturally going to be "well just use Poweramp then". The problem with this is anyone that the Poweramp EQ is bound by software and even though it doesn't mess with the volume output, it's effect is terrible compared to V4A. Meaning, the 31hz slider on the EQ boosts around 50hz. The 16khz slider is more around 10khz and the 8khz band - let's not go there.
I'm trying to find out if anyone knows of any other audio application with a built in EQ that bypasses the system EQ Samsung put in the S8 that does not lower gain to try to reach the desired effect. Or suggest anything else I can try? I'm using the S8 with a pair of Westone 4R IEM's and B&O H6 cans. Any audiophile advice is welcome. I just wish I understood this more.
Thanks in advance!
Hey man, I'm in the same boat, and I have tried everything possible on my unrooted S8+, but I can find no substitute for V4A.
I'm using noozxoide-E , and set it to warm/bright, to get some boost where it needs it. I also enabled larger monitors as well.
But I can't find anything that does a clean gain boost or normalize function.
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Best solution I've found to the universally terrible Android audio problems is to get an external DAC. The Dragonfly Black 1.5 is $99 on Amazon and is plug-and play. The bonus is it works literally on any OS (desktop or mobile) and supports all audio formats including lossless. Samsung will try to redirect it to your default audio player app (in my case Neutron) but it works on any audio app you want if you ignore the notification. Basically it's the easiest way to make audio sound good on phones that haven't been rooted (yet). Works great with my Sennheiser headphones and amps the audio too. I just had to buy the USB-A to USB-C cable, which you can buy just about anywhere for cheap. For a phone that costs $800, you'd expect the internal DAC to work better.
Footnote: I bought it at a local Audiophile store on the owner's recommendation. It even works well with the Samsung bundled headphones but is more effective if you have a high-quality audio output. Hence Neutron or a high-quality streaming service.
I been stuck in this boat. Following
fantasticrat said:
Best solution I've found to the universally terrible Android audio problems is to get an external DAC. The Dragonfly Black 1.5 is $99 on Amazon and is plug-and play. The bonus is it works literally on any OS (desktop or mobile) and supports all audio formats including lossless. Samsung will try to redirect it to your default audio player app (in my case Neutron) but it works on any audio app you want if you ignore the notification. Basically it's the easiest way to make audio sound good on phones that haven't been rooted (yet). Works great with my Sennheiser headphones and amps the audio too. I just had to buy the USB-A to USB-C cable, which you can buy just about anywhere for cheap. For a phone that costs $800, you'd expect the internal DAC to work better.
Footnote: I bought it at a local Audiophile store on the owner's recommendation. It even works well with the Samsung bundled headphones but is more effective if you have a high-quality audio output. Hence Neutron or a high-quality streaming service.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's funny that you bring up the Dragonfly, because I own one of them - and they are excellent external DAC's! I have always used USB Audio Player Pro and has worked great. The only problem with that is I can't have it plugged in for hours listening to it because it eats away at the battery I already have a hard enough time using. The last time I tried using a Mophie battery pack, it wouldn't power the Dragonfly, so I couldn't do that either. I actually carried spare battery in my wallet and swapped it out midday. It's just a pain is all and was hoping for a better solution.
I think what I really should do is just get a LG Q8 (which was just introduced). It's literally a LG v20 - only smaller AND has waterproofing. My only concern is having to buy a phone overseas without a warranty.
Thanks for your input, though. I'm sure a lot of people haven't thought about this as an option!
joesee said:
It's funny that you bring up the Dragonfly, because I own one of them - and they are excellent external DAC's! I have always used USB Audio Player Pro and has worked great. The only problem with that is I can't have it plugged in for hours listening to it because it eats away at the battery I already have a hard enough time using. The last time I tried using a Mophie battery pack, it wouldn't power the Dragonfly, so I couldn't do that either. I actually carried spare battery in my wallet and swapped it out midday. It's just a pain is all and was hoping for a better solution.
I think what I really should do is just get a LG Q8 (which was just introduced). It's literally a LG v20 - only smaller AND has waterproofing. My only concern is having to buy a phone overseas without a warranty.
Thanks for your input, though. I'm sure a lot of people haven't thought about this as an option!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely the Dragonfly drains battery if you use the Red. I use the Black because it actually does better with low drain (i.e., portable) headphones. Higher-powered headphones I mostly use at home anyway. The biggest trouble I've had is convincing the S8 to use Tidal instead of suggesting my default audio player (currently Neutron, which at least sounds better than other alternatives I've tried). The advantage to the T-Mobile One unlimited data plan is I can stream lossless audio, and that overcomes a lot of the issues in conjunction with the Dragonfly Black. Oddly enough, the Black seems to *increase* battery life on my Chromebook Plus because my guess is it diverts a lot of the processing effort off the Chromebook's internal hardware. It doesn't have the same longevity on my S8, but I'm considering getting a small C-to-A hub with power throughput for when I'm on roadtrips; that way I can at least charge and listen to music at the same time.
Regarding the warranty, I haven't found that the benefits are really worth it; if you're on these boards and are remotely like me, odds are you'll void the warranty as soon as someone comes out with a way to root the phone. Plus overseas phones are nearly always unlocked (my Chinese-purchased Motorola Defy worked in every country I took it to and could be rooted from the day I bought it).
Quick heads up to my solution.
I got a syncup for $44 brand new from T-Mobile, and put my 6gb free data SIM in it.
I mounted my rooted Galaxy Tab 3 7.0 with a magnetic cd mount, for quick disconnect, so I don't leave it in view when parked. I threw all my streaming apps on it with V4A installed.
Lastly, I installed DIGITS so that all my calls still come through the car's BT just like the music, and obviously I can text as well.
So I now I can stream deezer with V4A running, and it's glorious.
My S8+ is no longer connected to the car, and just sits in the cupholder.
Had to think out of the box
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app
So this is an interesting turn of events. I dug out my Dragonfly the other day and installed my USB Audio Player PRO (from eXtream Software) and re-installed it. I notice that now they have not only the standard EQ, but also a 5 band parametric EQ. It is an extra $2.99 add on in the application. All in, I think I paid $8 for this app and the add on.
Anyway, this in my opinion is one of the best applications for using an external DAC. BUT - one real nice feature is you can also use the application without a DAC and force the audio through the Android System. So when I pulled out the Dragonfly, plugged my cans in the 3.5mm jack on the S8 and started messing with both EQ's in tandem (without even changing any frequency sliders) I got a MASSIVE boost in gain. This was not software.. it was hardware, because it did not 'compress' the sound to boost the volume like AGC (Automatic Gain Control) found in most audio players. Once I started messing with some of the eq curves (particularly in the parametric EQ) - it is by FAR the closest rival to V4A. In fact, I'd be plenty happy with this solution - IF It worked for all audio apps (Spotify in particular - or even TuneIn).
The biggest point here is V4A can boost the gain and doesn't decrease anything (compress) to get you the adjustments you're looking for on the EQ. The gain adjustment on this Parametric EQ does the same thing. Check it out and let me know how your results are. Really wish there were a way to pipe this through other applications.
That's awesome, good find!
Sent from my SM-G955U using XDA-Developers Legacy app