hi there i am having a problem with my sgt p1000 wifi just upgrade to 7 series 4.1.0 i noticed that my wifi connection is not stable...
Think is an hardware problem.because i have installed this rom and i have any problem with the wifi.
Galaxy Tab P1000-OVERCOME 7 SERIES 4.1.0
icy25 said:
hi there i am having a problem with my sgt p1000 wifi just upgrade to 7 series 4.1.0 i noticed that my wifi connection is not stable...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Get yourself over to the Overcome thread and READ through it. Your answer lies within...
No offense phlooke, but you've told a few people that, and I've already become a bit lost in the over 100 pages of posts in that overcome 4.1 thread. Unless you're gonna post a link to the page in that thread where the solution begins, how is your above post helpful?
I'm going back into that thread now, but I swear, it's full of a lot of duplicate commentary, side discussions, and very little of the content is useful. A mod should clean up that thread.
maybe this one?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=21180574&postcount=770
Overcome 4.1 wifi fix attached there by Alterbridge himself.
Well the reason the thread is so congested is because of the same questions being asked over and over again.
People are too damn lazy to do there own investigation.
If you can't be bothered to read the whole thread there's a search function.
Check the forum rules.
Lastly the post I made is helpful in pointing the op to the place containing the answer? Duh.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
Overcome Series ROM's are awesome but I always have a screen problems on my TMO Tab. I get these little brownie prickles on my screen like a twinkling stars at night. I am not sure why, maybe it's because the LCD and RAM are under voltage. Normally, every time I flash a new ROM, I always flash back my modem.bin just to make sure that I get all the benefits of my carrier's. Right now, I use Chromed JQ8 Stock ROM with Dip7 Kernel. It's pretty much stable and fast. Chromed JQ8 and Dip7 Kernel combo works furiously fast and stable. No bugs and everything works wonderfully.
Actually not really, because if you read through the conversations on the Overcome 4.1.0 thread, that wifi fix doesn't work for many people. And now, as a new Overcome user (as of four hours ago), it doesn't work for me, either. I flashed the fix file from CWM and I still get an up, down, up, down and so on with the wifi connection. There needs to continue to be people asking some of the same questions about this, so that people like yourself don't give the mistaken impression that this problem is somehow "solved". I'm not putting you down, because I can tell from your posts on XDA that you really want to help when and where you can (as do most people on XDA including myself), but the fact remains that this wifi problem is NOT fixed, and at least for the time being, the more people who squawk about it on here or in the official Overcome thread, the more likely a true solution will present itself.
Because right now, there isn't one. The flash fix doesn't work for a lot of us, and I shouldn't have to tweak my router. That's a ridiculous notion. That, and I find myself moving from location to location, relying in a variety of wireless networks to connect to, and I certainly can't go and tweak every single router I come into contact with. It's unrealistic, and it's a *software* issue on the ROM. So a fix is possible. But isn't available just yet.
So this thread, and any other new ones... at least for the short term, they have the latent function of keeping the issue current and visible to the developer or others who might have the tech savvy to truly fix the issue.
personally, if I don't feel like helping, I will just move on.
I just don't understand why some people feel like policing the threads while not offering valuable info.
Take a deep breath and ignore the post.
As for the wifi problem, I wonder if it is modem related? It has to be either that or hardware related (batch issue with chipset?)
There is a small number of users with unstable wifi issue.
Small number of reported people with this issue. Who knows how many it actually affects, but more than three is too many. I can't see why it would be hardware related, since the devices in question work fine prior to flashing Overcome 4.1.0. Some people have switched to Overcome 4.0 and seen the problem go away (as have those who switched to other Chefs' ROMs). Of those who install 4.1.0 and see no problems, it suggests that whatever change happened between 4.0 and 4.1.0 affects only certain routers. Maybe some kind of optimization done has rendered a number of router models affected. ???
Suleeto said:
Of those who install 4.1.0 and see no problems, it suggests that whatever change happened between 4.0 and 4.1.0 affects only certain routers. Maybe some kind of optimization done has rendered a number of router models affected. ???
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Click to collapse
It has nothing to do with what router you have. Any router set to have no lease expiration will cause the bug. MOST routers don't even allow you to do such an asinine things. I couldn't force my router to have no lease expiration if I wanted to (which I wouldn't, because it would be stupid).
Search google for "Netgear No Lease Expiration". This is a GENERAL problem. It is not confined to Gingerbread Overcome ROM 4.1.
The bug is a combination of some routers' fault for shoddy programming and a gingerbread wifi config fault for not handling a fringe (and borderline retarded) but technically acceptable setting.
Change (FIX) your router's setting.
---
See for details: http://www.ietf.org/rfc/rfc2131.txt
According to the RFC SPEC:
The client may ask for a permanent assignment by asking for an infinite lease. Even when assigning "permanent" addresses, a server may choose to give out lengthy but non-infinite leases to allow detection of the fact that the client has been retired.
Nowhere in the spec does it say the server should give out Infinite Leases to clients that do not ask for them. If your router gives infinite leases to clients that can not or do not handle them, THE ROUTER IS THE BROKEN PART.
So you're saying that Froyo, WinMo, and other more powerful computing devices have additional functionality to deal with "fringe" features on select routers?
I am considering your explanation but you can understand how the explanation itself also might sound asinine to a layperson. I understand what DHCP servers do and how IP leases work.
My router is a newer Belkin model only a couple years old.
Edit: Because I am curious, I'll be looking into the router settings to see just what it is actually set at.
Edit 2: Yep, it's set to forever. Then again, I still can't understand why that is in your assessment considered a "bad" thing. And in my experience, it has never, NEVER been a problem with previous tech, over the years and years of wifi router use.
None of this explains or justifies why Gingerbread-based ROMs should suddenly lose this functionality. It is not like Android clients are going to change the face of what is a very common DHCP configuration among routers past and present (despite your sentiments). To me, moving from Froyo builds that can handle this to Gingerbread builds that cannot seems counterproductive for Google, as most consumers WILL NOT want to tweak their three to five year old routers that otherwise connect fine to every other computing device they can bother to try to connect with.
And like I said previously in this very thread... you can't exactly go into the back room of a Starbucks, the town library, or of local businesses, and demand they make a change to their DHCP lease configurations that for everyone else (oh! oh! oh! Including the well loved iPhone!) works without any issues whatsoever.
So I'm sorry, I'm not being a **** here, but what you're suggesting is an extremely large pill you are asking me to swallow, and it just seems like a prescription for a disease I do not possess.
LOL, checked the router and found the problem.
Was that not covered in the thread as one of the issues/fixes?
Jeez.
you can't exactly go into the back room of a Starbucks, the town library, or of local businesses, and demand they make a change to their DHCP lease configurations
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Click to collapse
And you'll almost never have to, because 99.5% of routers are made to the spec I linked and won't give the type of lease that your router does. Surprising that there isn't a firmware upgrade available that changes the default on the router to not be infinite - may just be because you can do it yourself in the router setup, so they didn't bother.
The "infinite-lease" by router without client request situation is not specifically defined in the spec, which means it is not necessarily defined in all clients. What makes other devices work with this router is either
a) the other clients can/do request infinite-leases
b) the other clients happen to have a lease handler that accepts an infinite lease
But nothing in the spec says the client should handle an infinite lease if it did not request one. In the case of this particular gingerbread ROM, that handler is left out, which is a case of not coding defensively enough. -Great- code would handle that in a different way than re-scanning constantly. However, there is a difference between "great code" and "meeting specs". By specification technicality it is the router that is on the wrong side of this argument.
All it means is that both sides kind-of suck. And in this situation the sucky part you have control over is the router, unless Alterbridge releases a modified wifi config that can handle this case gracefully that it shouldn't have had to handle in the first place (but honestly should have anyway, because that's what great code does).
phlooke said:
LOL, checked the router and found the problem.
Was that not covered in the thread as one of the issues/fixes?
Jeez.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Um I only mentioned that out of rhetoric, I am not questioning what I can do to resolve the tablet connection process AT MY HOME, I'm questioning the logic of defining the router as a "problem", which the other gentleman (darkmatter) is discussing with me. Or did you miss the point I was actually making? Jeez
darkmattar said:
And you'll almost never have to, because 99.5% of routers are made to the spec I linked and won't give the type of lease that your router does. Surprising that there isn't a firmware upgrade available that changes the default on the router to not be infinite - may just be because you can do it yourself in the router setup, so they didn't bother.
The "infinite-lease" by router without client request situation is not specifically defined in the spec, which means it is not necessarily defined in all clients. What makes other devices work with this router is either
a) the other clients can/do request infinite-leases
b) the other clients happen to have a lease handler that accepts an infinite lease
But nothing in the spec says the client should handle an infinite lease if it did not request one. In the case of this particular gingerbread ROM, that handler is left out, which is a case of not coding defensively enough. -Great- code would handle that in a different way than re-scanning constantly. However, there is a difference between "great code" and "meeting specs". By specification technicality it is the router that is on the wrong side of this argument.
All it means is that both sides kind-of suck. And in this situation the sucky part you have control over is the router, unless Alterbridge releases a modified wifi config that can handle this case gracefully that it shouldn't have had to handle in the first place (but honestly should have anyway, because that's what great code does).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not really concerned with "great code" vs. "poor code" here, I'm concerned with consumer use. I am more and more convinced this was a decision of the ROM chef and less that it's "Gingerbread" design. I can't imagine Google taking a risk of alienating even a small percentage of consumers who find themselves trying to connect to routers with default infinite leases. You claim that most new routers don't even allow that. This would mean that "infinite lease" is a legacy configuration, but again, every other device seems to have no trouble with that, because companies making these devices and their ROMs understand that the average consumer DOES NOT always know how (or have the option to) go in and change the config of a given router.
And btw... using the term "code" to criticize router design is a bit sloppy. How cleanly it's "coded" isn't at all what you're describing. It's "design philosophy" that is at work here. Not "code". Sometimes amateur programmers haven't spent enough time in the corporate development world and do not understand that the deciding factor in features and function is the COMSUMER end. Code is the guts, not the result. The result is designed based on need.
Also, you have some devices (recent ones, like my HP wireless printer for instance) that do not have an easy way to be assigned a fixed IP, and do not like frequent DHCP reassignment because the driver end on the client PC retains the IP as the pointer for the print queue. An infinite lease allows the initial assignment process to happen, and allows the client PC driver assigned IP to keep consistent with the IP assignment of the printer. This is not the only device that has this issue, but it is an increasingly common problem among a few wireless printer manufacturers in the way they set up client software connections to wireless printers.
So are you saying I should change my router config and cause printing problems in order to satisfy my apparently gutted, less-than-full featured network functionality of my custom flashed Android device?
Does that sound reasonable? Does that even address the concern that I have no control over public and other private wireless networks that I might try to connect to (and have infinite lease enabled)?
Tell you what: I will be going to not one, but three different wireless networks today. One at my local college, one at Starbucks, and believe it or not, the Denny's down the street has a brand new wifi setup installed (only about six months old). I will tell you what happens.
Even still, if I have this situation at home, then inevitably it exists elsewhere. And I would wager it's not a 1% experience, either.
I'm all for streamlining custom ROM's and trimming the fat, but not at the expense of such particularly important functionality. You call it "fringe", but from a product development point of view, we would consider it "comprehensive".
I like my "comprehensive" term a lot better than your "fringe" one. Maybe dropping this kind of functionality will happen eventually in devices, but I feel that doing so now is premature.
And I'm hoping that the chef reads this and at least offers the code in a subsequent version.
---------- Post added at 10:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:50 AM ----------
From the Overcome 4.1.0 thread:
absolutab said:
Not every GB ROM. Only on 2.3.6 JQ8. Had no issues with wi-fi on previous GB versions.
OTOH, on previous versions I had market issues (even at 240 dpi and with the 60Mb cache hack) and everything's working great on 2.3.6. Go figure... If I could have overcome 7 4.0 with overcome 7 4.1 market behavior I'd be more than happy.
I've tried ICS CM9 and wi-fi seemed stable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So Google may have indeed been the one to F' things up... Still, my sentiments stay the same, and it means that I might be switching to Overcome 4.0 until the situation is resolved. At least if this is the case, it's not the Chef's fault.
It has been a good discussion - I feel it is definitely clearing up the details, and I've learned a few things myself while researching to make sure my dhcp knowledge is up-to-date and at least mostly factually correct.
Also, you have some devices (recent ones, like my HP wireless printer for instance) that do not have an easy way to be assigned a fixed IP, and do not like frequent DHCP reassignment because the driver end on the client PC retains the IP as the pointer for the print queue. An infinite lease allows the initial assignment process to happen, and allows the client PC driver assigned IP to keep consistent with the IP assignment of the printer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The infinite lease merely stops the Lease Handshake from occurring. The lease handshake is a different communication altogether from DHCP [re]assignment. About the only time a DHCP assignment will happen is if DHCP settings change on the router between leases, and on the rare occasion it could happen that the Lease Handshake fails (like if one of the devices is unplugged or loses power momentarily) and a different device is connected and takes the IP, requiring a new one to be given to the other device. However, on your mostly stable/unchanging home network, this should happen pretty much never. The only case worth worrying about is if a power outage lasts long enough to span the lease expiring on multiple devices, they could reconnect and get different IPs each
less-than-full featured
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Click to collapse
I have been quoting from the RFC on DHCP. What your router is doing is not "full featured", it's "extra featured", which means not every device is going to support it, nor does it have to support it to be approved. If you look up "infinite lease" on google, you will see that essentially all documentation recommends against it. Another humorous link is to microsoft DHCP server software, which allows setting infinite leases (it is nowhere close to the default) but then begs you not to in the documentation!
However, since the spec does not explicitly state that a device should fail and retry the connection when an infinite lease is given, there really is no wrong method.
There is certainly a "more-appealing-to-users-desiring-full-compatibility" method. But again, when one device does something not explicitly defined in the specifications for ALL DHCP devices, it is just asking for other devices to be unable to connect to it.
Does that sound reasonable? Does that even address the concern that I have no control over public and other private wireless networks that I might try to connect to (and have infinite lease enabled)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As for this concern, I may be wrong, but I believe any public wifi with infinite leases will be broken 1/2 the time due to the allocated IP space being used up by devices that aren't even connected anymore. They'll be rebooting their router every few hours/days depending on how heavy their traffic is.
Almost all documentation warns against even setting your client to request infinite leases, or allowing your router to grant them
See: http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/dd183602(WS.10).aspx
or: http://www.tcpipguide.com/free/t_DHCPLeasesLeaseLengthPoliciesandManagement-4.htm
or: http://blogs.technet.com/b/teamdhcp/archive/2007/02/07/configuring-lease-time.aspx
Important Excerpts from above links:
Although it is possible to configure a client with infinite lease duration, use infinite lease durations with caution. Even relatively stable environments have a certain amount of client turnover. At a minimum, computers might be added and removed, moved from one office to another, or network adapters might be replaced. If a client with an infinite lease is removed from the network without releasing its lease, the DHCP server is not notified, and the IP address is not automatically reused. Also, when using an infinite lease, options set on the DHCP server are not automatically updated on the DHCP client, because the client is never required to renew its lease and obtain the new options. We recommend that you use reservations, rather than infinite lease durations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Perhaps the most relevant one of all is here:
Should I have INFINITE lease time?
It’s technically possible and most of the devices support it but the recommendation is never to have infinite lease time. The main reason is that any change in network configuration on dhcp server will not be updated on the client as the client will not trigger renew. Also it’s reported on some site that few devices don’t behave properly with INFINITE lease time and result in service crash and other issues. So if you are dhcp admin and want to avoid unnecessary issues it’s recommended not to have INFINITE lease time
Neelmani
Windows Enterprise Networking
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Click to collapse
See quotes above. It is way more of a router problem than a client problem.
But, in the end, I do agree that a well-designed wifi driver -should- be capable of handling an infinite lease without failing and reconnecting endlessly.
After reading all that the morning you posted it, I agree with you even before the edit. I see your point.
And I'm glad you also seem to agree with me that it could have been more comprehensive.
I've since turned my lease to two weeks (the maximum increment other than infinite). Hopefully my printer will continue to sync up to the client software later on. I will admit that I partly blame HP and other printer manufacturers for using such a LAZY workaround for their wifi printing solutions.
I suppose in a few years from now it won't matter. I still haven't visited those three other networks I wanted to try Overcome's Gingerbread on. Not yet. Been extremely busy. In a few minutes I'll be heading to a Starbucks in another town, so it might happen.
Connection problems either WiFi or physical cable have all the same similarity, Manufacturer's problem and not the OS. If I remember it correctly, way back in the 90's, Modem manufacturer's would just produce hardware and doesn't even think about the end user that will use it. We used to trash WinMo for having so many hardware problem's without realizing that some of the hardware manufacturer's doesn't go by the standards when designing and writing device drivers.They'll just re-use the same design hardware and hoping that they could just re-write the device coding to make it work whatever OS the end user would be using.A well designed hardware makes a coder job fairly easy and would work easily with the end user without a hitch. Sadly, I have to admit that until to these days some manufacturers still have problems catching up every time we have a new OS and merging two OS on a router to make a connection is still a ***** for them.I hate to say it, but "Belkin" should join the club properly .
Sometimes happens only !
I flashed overcome 4.1 over 20 times (while trying other roms and CM9 releases) and return back to it.
on 50% of the cases wifi caused problems. So wonder was about cache - wiping issue.
P.S. Yes i do use same file everytime and re-stock.
Try it.. Simple
i can smile use this because wifi easy connect... use this
1. Install Wifi Static (download from Android Market)
2. Make sure your wifi is connect.
3. Open Wifi Static, and click all box.
4. Click (add configuration) and press button option at your tablet.
5. Now u can see Generate click it.
6. Now click at IP Address change it. example:
192.168.2.1 to 192.168.2.100
7. Restart wifi.
it simple because can save configure and know
ip address/gateway/netmask/dns1/dns2
just changed ip address because you should use ip address no people take already.
easy to use at McD... or any Wifi
Related
Hi all
I rooted my NC a few days back, and it's working great. I'm able to connect to and use any wifi I find, (tried 3 unique locations successfully; 2 for 15 minutes a pop, 1 for about 2 or 3 hours) except for my home wifi It works about... 30% of the time. It seems to be totally random as to when it works. I use a DIR 615 at home, running WPA/WPA2 PSK.
It's not a problem with too many devices. I've run two laptops, a wireless 360, and 2 iphones all at once with no problems. Even when I power off the 360 and laptops and put the iphones on 3G I have the same issues with the NC.
Signal strength is also not an issue.
I've had it work for between 2 and 60 minutes at home, but most of the time it reads "Connected, but no internet."
Has anyone encountered this? Or have any idea what might be causing it?
swapdotavi said:
Hi all
I rooted my NC a few days back, and it's working great. I'm able to connect to and use any wifi I find, (tried 3 unique locations successfully; 2 for 15 minutes a pop, 1 for about 2 or 3 hours) except for my home wifi It works about... 30% of the time. It seems to be totally random as to when it works. I use a DIR 615 at home, running WPA/WPA2 PSK.
It's not a problem with too many devices. I've run two laptops, a wireless 360, and 2 iphones all at once with no problems. Even when I power off the 360 and laptops and put the iphones on 3G I have the same issues with the NC.
Signal strength is also not an issue.
I've had it work for between 2 and 60 minutes at home, but most of the time it reads "Connected, but no internet."
Has anyone encountered this? Or have any idea what might be causing it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had a friend that had the same problem. He called bn support and they suggested they turn off n on the router and use b/g wireless only and it fixed his problem. I know not having n enabled maybe annoying but it was the only fix he colud find. Might be a router issue since he has the exact same router as you.
What version of the Nook Color firmware are you running? v1.0.1 has some wifi improvements, so it could potentially help.
doomstalk said:
What version of the Nook Color firmware are you running? v1.0.1 has some wifi improvements, so it could potentially help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am on 1.0. To upgrade I just do a wipe of /system and /data via an 8 failed boots reboot, then update, then reroot with autonooter for 1.01 right?
jameswei said:
I had a friend that had the same problem. He called bn support and they suggested they turn off n on the router and use b/g wireless only and it fixed his problem. I know not having n enabled maybe annoying but it was the only fix he colud find. Might be a router issue since he has the exact same router as you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the router or on the nook?
Edit: And is this for all N routers, or just mine?
I also have a DIR-615 using N with wpa2 and I have no problems. My NC is 1.0.1 rooted with Autonooter..
I can say that the NC had a very decent wireless reception...
Maybe try another channel? Does your DIR-615 have the latest firmware?
I'm sorry, forgive my ignorance; how do I change channels?
The first thought that comes to my mind is: have you checked to see if there is upgraded firmware for your router?
I had no problems with a DIR614 at my sister's or either of the netgears I have at my own home.
The ONLY time I have had problems is when I was using the ad-hox fix script- something went slightly wrong for me and the infrastructure mode wouldn't stay connected to any wifi signal for long.
My solution has been to manually switch between wpa_supplicant files.
I also have the DIR-615, hw rev B2, fw 2.25 and ended up having to run WEP & b/g only as I found that with b/g/n enabled a b device would kick n devices off.
I didn't miss having n functionality, and had to have WEP as I have several devices that do not/cannot support WPA and are b only.
Also IIRC some hw variation of the 615 had various problems. I don't recall what they were offhand but a quick web search should turn something up. I only got this as I got it for a good price and ATT IIRC rev B2 hw was supposed to be OK...
I've run into a similar situation, running dd-wrt. I noticed that when a dhcp lease is created for my nook I get connected, no internet. I delete the lease and it works again.
enfox said:
I've run into a similar situation, running dd-wrt. I noticed that when a dhcp lease is created for my nook I get connected, no internet. I delete the lease and it works again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try this next time it craps out. It's working ATM.
cutterjohn said:
I also have the DIR-615, hw rev B2, fw 2.25 and ended up having to run WEP & b/g only as I found that with b/g/n enabled a b device would kick n devices off.
I didn't miss having n functionality, and had to have WEP as I have several devices that do not/cannot support WPA and are b only.
Also IIRC some hw variation of the 615 had various problems. I don't recall what they were offhand but a quick web search should turn something up. I only got this as I got it for a good price and ATT IIRC rev B2 hw was supposed to be OK...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd miss N for sure. I need N to stream 720p MKVs to my 360 Just in case I want to test that though, how would I go about disabling N on the DIR 615?
As a previous poster mentioned, i changed the settings on my router to b/g only and it fixed the connnectivity issues right away. I wasn't 100% keen on losing n to fix it, but it will do for now. I do get on to the wifi at my work and other places which i wouldn't be diabling n for any reason.
I am on 1.0.1 already and will try putting n back onto the router settings and see when i have some spare time.
I had "DIR-615" problems with WiFi for my Pandigital Novel. Until it just burn out. Well it was a $24.99 gamble of "open box" merchandize at Fry's 2 years ago, and it did work fine as is, just reflashed to the latest firmware. But it was before 615 become DD-WRT-able, and it didn't work for my PDN half the time anyway. So, I got me a Fry's FR-300RTR which is $29.99 rebrand of 615 (open boxes should be like around $15 or so, but there were none at the time.)
Long story short, I put DD-WRT on it, procedure is in the regular DD-WRT forum for Fry's router 95% of the way. The remaining and quite important 5% is in my blog http://fineoils.blogspot.com, enjoy.
For both PDN and Fry's routers to work stable on 802.11n, I used (it's also quite important, as I didn't find anybody else mentioned these) wireless basic settings like:
AP (don't use the "Router" unless you have another "gaming" router for $180 or so in your network(s), but then you don't need this cheapo device in the first place, right?)
NG-Mixed (I'd be working on pure N, but have couple of ancient b/g laptops, plus throaway dumb phone, I'm a cheap skate, as you can see, lol)
Full (20 MHz) (don't go for 40/20, or Turbo, or whatever if you have too many phones around -- which is usually the case today)
Auto (but the actual channel is "1", as it's less crowded in my area; so first scan your area and choose whatever you like more, 3 or 4 APs on your best channel compared to 8-10 on a default channel)
[whatever]
[whatever]
[Advanced Settings] should be left default, OFF, without mark in the box (one may spend a lot of time trying to improve something instead of reading one's nookbooks; I tried a little, had some problems, turned it OFF, and everything goes OK.
Replace all "regular" 2.4 GHz "wireless" phones in your household for the 5GHz ones, as long as you don't use BT/tethering, don't use your cell phone too close to your NC.
Use default 20db gain, it's just fine. This cheap piece starts to overheat even on default signal level, so consider voiding the warranty on your 615 or Fry's and set some heat sink like it's shown in my article. The picture shows a different router (and with some other weird mods), but you get the idea.
On less than 15% of battery charge, there might be some problems with WiFi (and I yet to see someone finding what is a default NC transmission level, and if it's 100%, I'd rather play with 20....40% instead and see what happens).
However, on a deplete battery there's lots of other things that may become dysfunctional.
Firmware did not help. Looks like I've fixed it by replacing my router. Thanks, boxing day! Using a DIR 825 now.
swapdotavi said:
Hi all
I rooted my NC a few days back, and it's working great. I'm able to connect to and use any wifi I find, (tried 3 unique locations successfully; 2 for 15 minutes a pop, 1 for about 2 or 3 hours) except for my home wifi It works about... 30% of the time. It seems to be totally random as to when it works. I use a DIR 615 at home, running WPA/WPA2 PSK.
It's not a problem with too many devices. I've run two laptops, a wireless 360, and 2 iphones all at once with no problems. Even when I power off the 360 and laptops and put the iphones on 3G I have the same issues with the NC.
Signal strength is also not an issue.
I've had it work for between 2 and 60 minutes at home, but most of the time it reads "Connected, but no internet."
Has anyone encountered this? Or have any idea what might be causing it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can confirm this.... though this was on a friend's tmobile dlink router (for uma support).
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
Look. What I proposed is using DD-WRT on DD-WRT-able D-Links. Which, in their original form (firmware), are either lower than average, or barely average routers in terms of throughput/throughput stability, stress under the load of multiple hosts/DNS/wired&wireless combinations/wireless signal attenuation, and overall QoS/load balancing, or lack of it. Then, many ISPs tend to shape traffic dynamically and drastically when observing some bursts of traffic on some ports (think P2P). D-Link devices do not like that. So no wonder they are cheapest on the market (seems like TRENDnet junk might be cheaper, but these just don't work stably even under low loads).
DD-WRT on 615 helps to alleviate many of most acute problems described above. Sure, one can decide like swapdotavi to put up extra $80...$100 and buy DIR-825 with twice RAM and 60 % faster processor, but guess what: it has a commercial version of DD-WRT as its firmware
aludal said:
Look. What I proposed is using DD-WRT on DD-WRT-able D-Links. Which, in their original form (firmware), are either lower than average, or barely average routers in terms of throughput/throughput stability, stress under the load of multiple hosts/DNS/wired&wireless combinations/wireless signal attenuation, and overall QoS/load balancing, or lack of it. Then, many ISPs tend to shape traffic dynamically and drastically when observing some bursts of traffic on some ports (think P2P). D-Link devices do not like that. So no wonder they are cheapest on the market (seems like TRENDnet junk might be cheaper, but these just don't work stably even under low loads).
DD-WRT on 615 helps to alleviate many of most acute problems described above. Sure, one can decide like swapdotavi to put up extra $80...$100 and buy DIR-825 with twice RAM and 60 % faster processor, but guess what: it has a commercial version of DD-WRT as its firmware
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your advice seems very applicable. I wanted to test the easy fix (firmware upgrade) first before I started deciphering your post which, honestly, went way over my head. I didnt mean to overlook your post or anything; your advice seems valuable.
By the time I found out my lazy firmware upgrade didnt work my girlfriend was so fed up with the outages I was causing by constantly rebooting and playing with the router that she dragged me out to look at boxing week sales and bought the 825 herself. I wasnt about to stop her
I was simply presented with an easier option is all.
swapdotavi said:
Your advice seems very applicable. I wanted to test the easy fix (firmware upgrade) first before I started deciphering your post which, honestly, went way over my head. I didnt mean to overlook your post or anything; your advice seems valuable.
By the time I found out my lazy firmware upgrade didnt work my girlfriend was so fed up with the outages I was causing by constantly rebooting and playing with the router that she dragged me out to look at boxing week sales and bought the 825 herself. I wasnt about to stop her
I was simply presented with an easier option is all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ever tried to reboot your GF?
Jokes aside, your brand spank new 825 should have a commercial DD-WRT distro on it, and for it to show best possible wireless performance (like in: overall throughput, load balancing, QoS, filtering of cell and other parasite interference/frequencies), you may want to look at my first post for 6 or so basic wireless parameters that I have found useful for use 2 tablets, 2 laptops, and 2 wired PCs in my household, porch, and backyard.
Sure it should work fine out of the box (unlike 615), but it takes some effort and play with a router when tuning your NookColor for predominant usage of 802.11n
If problems arise still, try to touch your router at its different outer body parts and check their temperatures. These should be mildly warm, anything hotter requres a trip to the shop for the replacement.
Not yet rooted Nook would refuse to stay connected, but dropping wireless N worked like a charm. All of the devices in the house are using G anyhow, side for a laptop, so this worked great.
aludal said:
Look. What I proposed is using DD-WRT on DD-WRT-able D-Links. Which, in their original form (firmware), are either lower than average, or barely average routers in terms of throughput/throughput stability, stress under the load of multiple hosts/DNS/wired&wireless combinations/wireless signal attenuation, and overall QoS/load balancing, or lack of it. Then, many ISPs tend to shape traffic dynamically and drastically when observing some bursts of traffic on some ports (think P2P). D-Link devices do not like that. So no wonder they are cheapest on the market (seems like TRENDnet junk might be cheaper, but these just don't work stably even under low loads).
DD-WRT on 615 helps to alleviate many of most acute problems described above. Sure, one can decide like swapdotavi to put up extra $80...$100 and buy DIR-825 with twice RAM and 60 % faster processor, but guess what: it has a commercial version of DD-WRT as its firmware
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the impression that Dlink don't actually make their own hw, and possibly even their own firmware as IIRC even with the 6XX series of routers they went through SEVERAL various CPUs and fw variants in those routers. e.g. IIRC the 615 had 3 different hw variations and 3 different fw families...
Back when I got it there was no choice other than stock fw and possibly one of their betas, and at that time it was one of the better performing routers in that price range overall, or more specifically the rev B2 hw variant...
Disabling N: it's in one of the router setup pages... probably have to use the manual setup rather than their "wizard", which is what I always do anyways...
I'm running Hash's ICS on my D3, and can't seem to do anything with any VPN connections. On MavROM 3.5, I was able to make un-encrypted PPTP connections, because for some reason, MPPE support is missing in the Kernel. I know what an absolute pain in the neck getting a PPTP server up and working on Linux can be, so I can't imagine what a pain getting it running on Android is like.
Has anyone been able to make any kind of VPN connection on their D3 with a CM9 based ROM? I have yet to hit my logs, and start capturing packets, but before I did, I wanted to see if its even possible, since having a locked bootloader makes things a little tougher..
Anyone have anything for this? 3rd party options? This is one area where the iPhone just works, and I have had a hell of a time getting various Android flavors connected to our VPN. Either PPTP or L2TP. It's just not as easy as an iPhone or iPad.
This is certainly been a decision factor for Tablet provisioning for our sales guys. One guy did buy his own Android tablet, and just can't get the VPN working, where all of our iPad's work without modification.
I hear crickets chirping...
I've been searching for months.. I have found no viable fix for VPN on either CM7 or CM9, and from what I've found it's an upstream issue in Android itself. Only solutions I've found connect to other service providers to provide anonymity. i have not tried paid solutions.
Not sure if this is an option, but OpenVPN works flawlessly. Unless you strictly require a PPTP/L2TP solution, try it out. I've got an OpenVPN server running on my router at home so I can connect from my phone at any time and have quasi-LAN access to my home network, comes in really handy. Not to mention it's a billion times more configurable than either of the built-in (and outdated) VPN types.
Android has never been known for its VPN compatibility, surprisingly enough. You'd think it would be a major focal point in terms of customer requirements, but I guess it's sort of slipped through the cracks.
Nevertheless, try searching the Market (or Play, whatever they've called it now) for OpenVPN Installer and OpenVPN Settings, the first app does what you'd think and the second is where you initialize and configure your connections.
I was playing with it only for one few hours...
and I am concerned with current level of security of rooted Chromecast.
If you
reboot wireless router(wireless access point)
OR
wireless router is down/malfunction
OR
communication between Chromecast and wireless router is jammed
OR
someone used Aircrack-ng suite to disconnect Chromecast from wireless router
your Chromecast just created open wireless network for configuration purposes...
and Team-Eureka http panel is accessible at most likely default IP address 192.168.255.253,
also provides you with an IP adress via internal dhcp.
look a bit at config:
http://192.168.255.249/?page=status
and than
http://192.168.255.249/?page=settings
be sure that telnet, ssh, adb are running.
Just connect with telnet or SSH, privledged user is root, there is no password
cat /data/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
Code:
ctrl_interface=/data/wifi
update_config=1
country=US
network={
ssid="my wifi essid"
scan_ssid=1
psk=my password on a silver plate in WPA PSK HEX(64 characters)
proto=RSN
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
}
You just owned someone's Chromecast and can abuse his wireless network.
Still got time tinker with Chromecast? Maybe plant some android type of backdoor... NSA style...
How to fix this?
1. be sure that internal web server is not vurnelable.
2. https
3. Http panel accessible only after providing password that is by default for instance sha-1 hash of serial number.
(user may take a picture of his own chromecast and use tool/service to generate hash), it should be changed at first login
4. adb, telnet, ssh disabled by default
5. root password
Basic stuff...
First off, if you are worried about our panels security it is open source, so feel free to audit it for any vulnerabilities.
Also, we are working on a new revision of the panel which not only includes password support, but also the ability to set a SSH password. The reason none is set ATM is because by default the root acc on the chromecast has none, so we have a modified dropbear binary that will allow any password to work.
As for HTTPS over the web panel, that will be available, but it will not be "enforced". (at least that is the current plan). We may add a panel option that enforces https though, for users who are concerned about security on their local wireless network.
Now telnets another story, because its generated with busybox its hard to have a password enforced, but you can just disable it. same goes with ADB.
We know right now our services are not the most locked-down, but trust me most of it has already been fixed on our end and these changes will be out with the next OTA
ddggttff3 said:
First off, if you are worried about our panels security it is open source, so feel free to audit it for any vulnerabilities.
Also, we are working on a new revision of the panel which not only includes password support, but also the ability to set a SSH password. The reason none is set ATM is because by default the root acc on the chromecast has none, so we have a modified dropbear binary that will allow any password to work.
As for HTTPS over the web panel, that will be available, but it will not be "enforced". (at least that is the current plan). We may add a panel option that enforces https though, for users who are concerned about security on their local wireless network.
Now telnets another story, because its generated with busybox its hard to have a password enforced, but you can just disable it. same goes with ADB.
We know right now our services are not the most locked-down, but trust me most of it has already been fixed on our end and these changes will be out with the next OTA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for fast and exhaustive answer.
Any "ETA" of build with features you mentioned ?
Is there any roadmap for Eureka-ROM?
Any chance for something dedicated to LAN streaming?
(Chrome full screen is buggy, Plex is $ app, Fling is written in JAVA and no longer in developement.)
If there will be any beta or rc I am willing to participate.(not so many things to test there)
mathorv said:
Thank you for fast and exhaustive answer.
Any "ETA" of build with features you mentioned ?
Is there any roadmap for Eureka-ROM?
Any chance for something dedicated to LAN streaming?
(Chrome full screen is buggy, Plex is $ app, Fling is written in JAVA and no longer in developement.)
If there will be any beta or rc I am willing to participate.(not so many things to test there)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We don't really do ETA's but we try to have updates out right after google OTA's, or when there is a severe bug. As for a roadmap, we currently don't have one public due to it constantly changing.
LAN streaming still works with Fling (as we have fling added back to our roms through our whitelist service), but that is all I know of. If other users want to create apps that can utilize fling, that would be awesome.
And last for testing, currently I have more then enough testers for when beta updates roll out. keep your eyes open in the future as I may do open signups again at a later date.
Well the scenarios you set would apply to non rooted CCasts as well...
If they hacked your wireless with Aircrack to set a disconnect, then you were exposed long before they reconfigured the CCast and they can do a lot more damage with that access without you ever noticing than they could through the CCast.
Your would notice the CCast changing but you wouldn't notice someone hacked your Wireless without looking at the Router Logs or noticing a degraded Network performance.
If these things are a concern for you then I suggest you turn on MAC Filtering on our Router, Set Allows for the CCast and all the devices you own and deny all others.
But the concerns you have exist regardless of a rooted CCast. Leaving a CCast unconnected might expose the CCast to be taken over since it will be an open AP anyone can connect to....And they can Airtcrack you router even with a stock CCast.
But if you see that just look out the window because they would probably have to be sitting on your Porch or parked in your Driveway to do it!
I don't know many Hackers who are THAT Brazen! LOL
Asphyx said:
Well the scenarios you set would apply to non rooted CCasts as well...
If they hacked your wireless with Aircrack to set a disconnect, then you were exposed long before they reconfigured the CCast and they can do a lot more damage with that access without you ever noticing than they could through the CCast.
Your would notice the CCast changing but you wouldn't notice someone hacked your Wireless without looking at the Router Logs or noticing a degraded Network performance.
If these things are a concern for you then I suggest you turn on MAC Filtering on our Router, Set Allows for the CCast and all the devices you own and deny all others.
But the concerns you have exist regardless of a rooted CCast. Leaving a CCast unconnected might expose the CCast to be taken over since it will be an open AP anyone can connect to....And they can Airtcrack you router even with a stock CCast.
But if you see that just look out the window because they would probably have to be sitting on your Porch or parked in your Driveway to do it!
I don't know many Hackers who are THAT Brazen! LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reconfiguring stock Chromecast is one thing and that's not so much a problem. Attacker don't get password, just info about name of connected network. In that scenario attacker gets essid and handshakes or reconfigure Chromecast wireless settings(essid/password).
Problem is that with rooted attacker has access to adb/telnet/ssh. In that scenario attacker has easy access to essid/password in plain text and may do this unnoticed.
About ranges:
What if someone lives in center of a city? Skyscrapers area?
About suburban area, I am not convinced that people in US live in houses with brick/concrete block walls, this is not EU.
Have you ever used Aircrack-ng suite and some gnu/linux wireless pentesting distro?
You can attach high gain directional antenna to 2000mW wireless card(Alfa brand for instance) and use software tweaks.
Ranges are much higher than you would anticipate.
About Chromecast setting security - yes it is ridiculous.
It asks if you see XYZ9 on a screen. (always click yes - right?)
It should at least ask for some automatically generated password that is visible on the screen...
So for now we may create additional wireless network/VLAN with max one client and connection restrictions...
mathorv said:
Have you ever used Aircrack-ng suite and some gnu/linux wireless pentesting distro?
You can attach high gain directional antenna to 2000mW wireless card(Alfa brand for instance) and use software tweaks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes many times and the loopholes you suggest in your scenario are not limited to the Rooted version at all...
Sure there are extra tools in the rooted version that do not exist in the non-rooted....
But the scenario suggested gives you about 30 seconds to get what you want before the router is back up, CCast re-connects and shuts down your session!
And they still have the problem of how to shut down your router or know when it will happen to start working the hack.
Sure someone could probably get what they want in that timeframe..
But someone that good really is not going to be interested in hacking YOU!
Not Unless your some Cartel leader or Bank Executive.
People who have no business rooting anything if they want security....LOL
Asphyx said:
Yes many times and the loopholes you suggest in your scenario are not limited to the Rooted version at all...
Sure there are extra tools in the rooted version that do not exist in the non-rooted....
But the scenario suggested gives you about 30 seconds to get what you want before the router is back up, CCast re-connects and shuts down your session!
And they still have the problem of how to shut down your router or know when it will happen to start working the hack.
Sure someone could probably get what they want in that timeframe..
But someone that good really is not going to be interested in hacking YOU!
Not Unless your some Cartel leader or Bank Executive.
People who have no business rooting anything if they want security....LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@but someone that good really is not going to be interested in hacking YOU!
World is full of sick people, besides, over the years it has become easy, primary school kid can do it, every hacking soft has a GUI now
@ features - it would be nice to override wifi from panel - sometimes chromecast indicates connecting status. at the same time is connected to secure wifi and has open configuration wifi.
@ alpha builds, I would be glad to flash anything newer that does not totally brake chromecast and is safer for now
Is web panel risky?
Sorry it's even worse:
1. connect to device if its in open network AP state
2. http://192.168.255.249/?page=debug
3. cat /data/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
4. SEND
Gone in less than 30 seconds.
mathorv said:
Sorry it's even worse:
1. connect to device if its in open network AP state
2. http://192.168.255.249/?page=debug
3. cat /data/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
4. SEND
Gone in less than 30 seconds.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good thing devices only are in AP mode for setup. Besides, once the new web panel is released, this will be a non issue.
Hey,
So I am having serious wifi issues since I installed my Google Home. I use a chromecast too, but I think it's safe to say that it's the Home device that f-ed up wifi network.
I did read all the articles back i January/February that I was not alone with the issue, and as far as I understand - Google rolled out a fix about a month ago.
However, I am still having issues. My wifi drops for no reason (on all devices at the same time, phones included) for a few seconds and then comes back up. I've tried rebooting the router, and updating firmware on the router but no help. Today I pulled the plug to the Google Home until this has been fully resolved.
I love my Home and would like to have it connected. Did the correction that Google rolled out solve it for everyone else here or does anyone still have issues - or is it just me?
How can I see what firmware/software I am running on the Home? I have obviously tried to ask it, but it responds "this is not supported yet".
Any ideas?
Vol
I had the same problem on my main router, so I tried connecting it to my secondary router, and it worked, but since that one was supposed to be for the other part of the house, I got a cheapest used router I could (doesn't even support n standard) and created a separate network with different SSID, now I use it only to connect google home devices, chromecasts and other smart home wifi devices, and it works (it still uses my main router's DHCP server, and network, it is just AP with a different SSID), oh and I use channel 6 on that router btw.
Volatyle said:
Hey,
So I am having serious wifi issues since I installed my Google Home. I use a chromecast too, but I think it's safe to say that it's the Home device that f-ed up wifi network.
I did read all the articles back i January/February that I was not alone with the issue, and as far as I understand - Google rolled out a fix about a month ago.
However, I am still having issues. My wifi drops for no reason (on all devices at the same time, phones included) for a few seconds and then comes back up. I've tried rebooting the router, and updating firmware on the router but no help. Today I pulled the plug to the Google Home until this has been fully resolved.
I love my Home and would like to have it connected. Did the correction that Google rolled out solve it for everyone else here or does anyone still have issues - or is it just me?
How can I see what firmware/software I am running on the Home? I have obviously tried to ask it, but it responds "this is not supported yet".
Any ideas?
Vol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, i feel my networking knowledge can come handy here! Lol. Home,three chromcasts, firetv, firestick x2; Nghthawk x8000->asusrtac68u->lan2wanWNR1000(for old 2nd gen sony bluray dlna and one roomstreaming)+wirelessLinksysEA6350->asusrtac88u. Yes, intriguing network! 6bdrm 3300sqft house. Biggest ever afforded! So, needless to say i pay TWC for 100Mbps, capping at 230mbps on the rtac68u ethernet bridge to wired desktop! All running my own modified compiled tomatousb. Linksysea6350 is ddwrt, kongbuild and a PIA so thats w/e stock kong wanted. Well safe to say ive been at making all this work!! What i need from you is topology and setup, running broadcoms or others? I find broadcom way easier to mess with. Second, you running custom or boxed units? And third is the google products subnetted (more of a b***h if you ask me!) And connected 2.4 or 5? N or AC? And how are you allocating resources? IE using QOS or similar? If you can't answer those im need (if unboxed and freed) "logcats", iptables, etc.. more than safe to say, the home not the culprit in sense to it "drowning" out the wifi band, but could for drown resources, IE low grade hardware, hardware beginning stages of failure and one extra workhorse did it, RAM, eMMC, getting the gist? Im gonna say w/slight certainty you might be rebooting not wifi actually cutting out. You also could if custom firmware corrupted something that the home doesnt like. But wont know w/out the numbers to look at. All i got from you is, either a LAN2LAN or bridge as i read your main hib is the DHCP, and is the SSID you "created" a subnet? And your "30" dollar router also could not be up to task.
And sorry if the reply is anything not right, first post ever here! Years of only reading lol. And something wrong with my cheap phone cracked screen phone replacement everytime keyboard is opened! Doubt its this website. my pixel xl tried to drive on the interstate outside of my car...so sad.. just know im gonna punch this phone or throw from the anger ive gained trying to type and the sign-in to post.. thank you.
Similar solution worked for me
I use a dedicated connection for all things GH related. This stopped the wifi dropout.
I recently bought a Verizon Note 9 (first Samsung phone) so I'm not well versed on things. I have noticed from time to time when I am not receiving carrier signal (still connected to wifi) my texts will start failing with the error "Invalid teleservice id".
After some digging I noticed that my phone number in "About Phone" was incorrectly set to an invalid number 1-265-000-000.
I have cleared all caches and reset all settings I can think of. This problems occurs on all SMS applications. So far I have tried: Google Messages; Samsung Messages; Verizon Messages+.
Where does the "About Phone" page get populated from?
My hunch is the internal number of the phone is getting set by some screwy logic and that is throwing off everything that relies on it.
Invalid teleservide id soulution found
I need people to test this solution to make sure it works across all devices as the error seems to affect all android devices under certain conditions. If you would like to read how I came to this solution to help me check my work or you are just interested please keep reading, If you just want the solution feel free to skip to the bottom paragraph beginning with SOLUTION. If you try this solution, which I actually believe to be a solution and not a hotfix, please respond with 3 pieces of information: 1) Did it work. 2) What Android device you use and the version of Android you are using and 3) Your ISP (Internet Service Provider).
This data is very important.
STORY:
So, last month I switched to Android for a couple of reasons after having used iPhones since the iPhone 5. The two most important things to me were being able to stream music using the LDAC Bluetooth codec and having a crack at Samsung Dex to see if I could avoid buying a laptop next year. I was immediately happy with these features that had been the impetus for switching, but then something unexpected happened: the thing that I have always taken for granted, i.e. my phone sending/receiving calls and texts, was incredibly unreliable on this phone (Galaxy S20 Ultra). After doing some googling and finding the official forums (there seem to be 2 devoted to this issue and I will post this both places) I found the incredibly disheartening ‘hotfix’ of disabling WiFi calling to be completely unnaceptable. Not only because I don’t actually get cell service in my apartment but because a $1400 flagship smartphone should certianly not have less functionality in any area that an iPod Touch circa a decade ago.
Normally I would just take my faulty device down to a Verizon store because although I am in IT I specialize in computers more than phones, however since we have been in isolation this began an approximately 20 hour saga via the phone over the span of May 25th to June 19th. After trying everything I could glean might work from google, and following every step that Verizon tech support asked me to try and actually convincing them to update the carrier settings on my account I was finally given the OK to get a replacement device. It is important to note at this point that I had only been searching this error for my model phone and mistakenly had the idea that it was an incredibly rare issue that was a problem with a select few devices.
So, you can imagine my complete and udder shock after getting the replacement phone, setting it up, and getting the Invalid Teleservice ID Error 4 on the second text message I tried to send on the device. It took me about an hour to really get my wits together because at this point I was trying to come to terms with the very possible reality that I was not going to be able to use my phone at home reliably because I don’t have good reception over WiFi. When my faculties returned, I resolved to read every post I could find on this issue.
What I found is that this problem has been around since certain people started installing Android 8 on their phones and that they have been trying to get Verizon to offer an actual solution since 2017. So here we are 3.5 years later and almost 4 generations of Android later and “the best network” has so far failed to offer any sort of real solution to this problem. However, from getting the error on my new phone and seeing that the error was effecting essentially every model device Verizon sells (that runs Android) gave me a key piece of data: the problem has nothing to do with the device.
After getting deeper and deeper into some forums I noticed that one person reported that this problem only occurs for them when they use an Xfinity WiFi hotspot. That was my lightbulb moment. I am also an Xfinity customer. I then started searching the problem from that perspective and found that most of the people reporting the error and mentioning their ISP were either Xfinity or Spectrum customers, and now I was starting to feel like I might be onto something.
In terms of IT, networking is my weakest area. Nevertheless I dove into some forums that have tried to approach this problem from a networking perspective and although a lot of it was over my head I started to suspect there was something about the firewall on Xfinity and Spectrum routers that is causing the problem. After 72 hours of exhaustive testing ( not only is 24 hours approximately my previous record for not having the error, but I used that time to send out as much information via text messaging as possible to try to cause the error) I am ready to posit a hypothesis as to what is actually causing the problem and post the solution that is currently working for me.
As I have noticed that the problem is most likely to crop up for me when I am using Dex and a physical keyboard and have tried to send many texts in quick succession, the idea came to me that somehow trying to send a large volume of data exacerbates a problem that Xfinity and Spectrum routers have reliably delivering packets in the right order and format over the internet to the Verizon network. So, this is what I decided to try, and it has now worked for approximately 84 hours straight and has performed flawlessly under stress testing (Spamming 500 word texts and hi res photos to multiple people in quick succession using copy/paste).
SOLUTION:
I’m sure many of you who play video games have used a function on your routers to get around NAT issues called the DMZ. The DMZ allows you to put a device using a specific IP address on your personal network outside of the firewall and connect it directly to the internet. For a device that exists on this network wirelessly there is a simple step you must take first. You must assign your device a static IP. If you go into your router settings you will likely find that all devices on your network are assigned IP addresses via a system called DHCP. This essentially means your device will probably have a new IP every time you leave the house and return, so we need to make it the same every time so that the DMZ will function the way we want it to. Every router is going to have a slightly different settings menu, but you should be able to find a tab that lists the CONNECTED DEVICES on your network. What you need to do is change your phone from being a DHCP connected device and assign it a STATIC IP address. Finding the option to do this may be harder than actually doing it, all you need to do when you find the option is change the connection type from DHCP to Static and pick and IP address that will work for you. My network uses 10.0.0.XX for the devices on my home network so I assigned my phone to 10.0.0.99. Then I placed the 10.0.0.99 in the DMZ. In my router menu, the DMZ is under ADVANCED SETTINGS and when you select the DMZ tab, simply enter the IP address you chose for your phone.
To recap:
1) Set your phone to a static IP
2) Put that IP in the DMZ
That’s it. A valid criticism of this solution is that your phone is less secure, however I would respond that the likelihood of your phone being hacked is much smaller that that of a PC and if this slightly loosened security really bothers you, just use a VPN. A VPN will keep you safe in a Starbucks on their free public WiFi and it can protect you here (I actually had a VPN when I got my device and originally I thought it was the cause of the Invalid Teleservice error). CAUTION: There has been a crop of predatory VPN services lately that provide working VPNs, but will charge you a ridiculous amount. I use NordVPN (I found a code on YouTube that gave me 70% off six devices on a 3 year plan, that ended up costing about $100) but there are plenty of good services that will allow you to connect to the internet via a VPN on one device for approximately $2-3 a month.
So please, try this and report back. This error has been the bane of my existence since switching to Android and it is completely unacceptable that Verizon has had literally years to do figure out a solution to this problem and yet they have not. My end goal is not to receive credit but to make sure that in the future Verizon Tech Support actually knows how to help people solve this problem, and their techs don’t take your calls and then look the problem up on google, proceeding to be completely transparent in terms of having no actual knowledge of this issue and literally reading the same forums I have already been over and suggesting the non-solutions posted there in order, i.e. turn off WiFi calling and if that doesn’t work turn off ‘Advanced Calling’.
REMEMBER: If this solution does not work for you, please double check that your changes the router you use have stuck. I have previously had routers that will for reasons I don’t understand change the DMZ domain or switch a device back to DHCP from static or simply fail to save your changes properly.
I await responses eagerly.
You need to take your device to your local high street retail branch of your cell provider and ask them to check your SMS/MMS settings
I would love to be able to actually go into a brick and mortar Verizon store but that's currently not possible in WA state. I had to have a tech walk me through checking those settings myself (after doing my own research as well) and had somebody at level 3 of tech support at Verizon manipulate my carrier settings. That's pretty much all I can do during the pandemic.
My solution is still working for me though, however 33 min after I put the same post on the official Verizon forum they closed the thread which had had regular posts over the last 3 years so now I'll never know if it works for anybody else. Additionally, there was somebody on the forum who approached the problem from SMS/MMS settings perspective and it had to do with deleting server settings and whatnot. It was so complicated that I doubt many end users could follow the same steps.
K_A_Beausoleil said:
I would love to be able to actually go into a brick and mortar Verizon store but that's currently not possible in WA state. I had to have a tech walk me through checking those settings myself (after doing my own research as well) and had somebody at level 3 of tech support at Verizon manipulate my carrier settings. That's pretty much all I can do during the pandemic.
My solution is still working for me though, however 33 min after I put the same post on the official Verizon forum they closed the thread which had had regular posts over the last 3 years so now I'll never know if it works for anybody else. Additionally, there was somebody on the forum who approached the problem from SMS/MMS settings perspective and it had to do with deleting server settings and whatnot. It was so complicated that I doubt many end users could follow the same steps.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for your efforts. I've had this same issue on my Note 9 for 2 years... Your solution did not work for me.
However, I found a solution this morning. My ISP is not Xfinity or Spectrum. But my network which is spread across a small community blocks some IPsec ports that are required for wifi calling. Enabling those ports on my router does not fix the problem since it is a network/modem setting that I don't have access to.
What does work is having a vpn profile that implements IKEv2/IPsec VPN tunnels on your Android device. I have a NordVPN subscription and downloaded the StrongSwan VPN client from the Play Store. This client only uses IPsec encryption. Using a NordVPN server that has this encryption with the StrongSwan VPN client has allowed me to bypass this network restriction and my wifi calling phone calls and texts go through just fine now.
Hoping this helps someone else...
---------- Post added at 04:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:05 PM ----------
hkjxda said:
Thanks for your efforts. I've had this same issue on my Note 9 for 2 years... Your solution did not work for me.
However, I found a solution this morning. My ISP is not Xfinity or Spectrum. But my network which is spread across a small community blocks some IPsec ports that are required for wifi calling. Enabling those ports on my router does not fix the problem since it is a network/modem setting that I don't have access to.
What does work is having a vpn profile that implements IKEv2/IPsec VPN tunnels on your Android device. I have a NordVPN subscription and downloaded the StrongSwan VPN client from the Play Store. This client only uses IPsec encryption. Using a NordVPN server that has this encryption with the StrongSwan VPN client has allowed me to bypass this network restriction and my wifi calling phone calls and texts go through just fine now.
Hoping this helps someone else...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scratch this... Wifi calling uses it's own IPsec VPN tunnel, VPN clients only encrypt internet traffic, not cell service. Back to square one...