I have paired an Apple A1314 wireless bluetooth keyboard with my Samsung Captivate...matter of fact, it paired very easily, despite some of the threads I've seen here about how difficult it has been for some people.
Most of my bluetooth devices (headsets, DLNA, computers, etc.) all show in the list of bluetooth devices under Settings>Wireless and Network>Bluetooth settings. However, this Apple keyboard does not show up in the list of devices. Therefore, I can neither unpair nor delete the device from my Android.
The Problem: this is a mobile keyboard...it goes everywhere with me in a bookbag. The Android connects to it automatically as soon as my bluetooth radio is turned on, and the keys are depressed in my bag, so it takes over the Android phone and renders it unusable (screen goes crazy, too, depending on which keys are depressed in my bag.)
Q: Where can I find the settings in the Android OS to clear this device, unpair it, or delete it?
Q: Is there an app that allows quick removal of all bluetooth devices (even those not showing in the Bluetooth devices list)?
a little help?
-Jeff
Related
I have 3 stereo bluetooth devices and 2 headset only devices.
The problem comes from auto re-connecting to the stereo devices.
The only way it seems to work at all is if I pair all the stereo devices first.
If I reset, then I usually have to click and hold on the device in BT Settings and select "set as wireless stereo" to get the stereo connection to kick in.
In my tests I have made sure only one device is on at a time.
It certainly is not as easy as it should be.
It seems to be worse after a Tilt reset.
So my questions are : Has anyone else seen this behavior and is there a fix or work-around for it?
If not, does anyone no how to make a direct link to the BT Settings Window so at least it would only be a couple clicks to fix it?
You need at least one of each device (headset and stereo headset) to see this problem.
I've seen this with my Wizard as well as the Tytn II, so I suspect it's a "feature" of the MS BT stack. I think it's somehow related to the "set as wireless stereo" feature -- apparently only one device at a time can have that setting, and MS turns the setting off if it can't connect to that device. Note that there's no such setting for handsfree, and connections on that profile work flawlessly between multiple devices.
Its a little better
What I found out is that if you pair all your stereo devices first and then all the non-stereo, things seem to work a bit better and Dutty's BT-Link plugin will reconnect the stereo part most of the time, so its only a click away and sometimes you don't need to turn the device to discover mode.
However, if anyone from MS reads this, there is no reason not to automatically connect into full stereo, IF the device is the only one in the list that can be found at any point in time. And if they wanted to be really cool, if not, then present the user with a list so he can click to choose.
Similar problem
Hi BSW11,
Im having a similar problem with the pairing of my carkit.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=1717330#post1717330
I believe it can be traced to the the MS BT stack not handling the automatic re-pairing correctly. I am surprised that not many other people have notice or complained in this forum about it.
Adam
No BT Wireless Stereo device will auto-connect to any WM device, you have to tell your phone to connect to it via the BT setting unless a 3rd party app has that function built in to it. This is a 'feature' of MS WM OS system.
Any BT 'headset' (ie mono earpiece) will auto connect if it has been selected for 'use as headset'
Hope this helps.
A number of people have mentioned having issues with A2DP streaming on the Nexus.
I just found out something interesting... I've been getting annoying skips in music when playing audio to my car stereo, so after experimenting I've found:-
Open bluetooth settings, select headunit, enter pin, allow phonebook access and for the duration of that connection I get perfect audio.
Turn off either the headunit or phone, or both and allow them to connect again, then audio skips...
Open bluetooth settings, select headunit, unpair, select headunit, enter pin, allow phonebook access and for the duration of that connection, once again I get perfect audio.
The only thing I can think of is that the good connection is initiated by the N1 and the bad one by the headunit when it connects to the N1 at startup. Maybe capability negotiation problem? Maybe N1 selects a lower bitrate when it connects than the headunit does when it connects, any ideas? Is it possible to tweak the N1 to restrict the connection parameters?
- Anthony
I use a HT820 by Motorola and do not have any issues with skipping.
Started stock, then CM, now froyo. no issues on any of these roms.
That's great, but whilst bluetooth is a standard, some manufacturers get things wrong, and motorola may well have handled this better, this handsfree kit worked with:-
Hermes,
TYTN II
Touch Pro,
Sony Xperia,
Diamond2.
The kit within my headunit is built by parrot, so no small fish in the bluetooth pond.... It has a little menu with a list of models of phone with "funny" (non-standard) bluetooth implementations so that it can implement workarounds.
To top it off, others, with different handsfree kits have similar issues.
So, back to what I was saying...
I've just confirmed that it doesn't matter which end initiates the connection, if the phone was paired previously it skips, if you unpair and re-pair (during pairing the phone is connected as part of that process) for the duration of that connection the sound is flawless.
It must be using different connection parameters on that first connection, but I can't even see _any_ information about the connections, like bitrate/bitpool / sample rate etc.
Is there any way I can get the connection information for current bluetooth connections?
Does anyone know the way around the AOSP code enough to see if there could be any difference in the pairing connection to the normal connections?
I bet it really is that it uses "safe" values during the initial connection.
- Anthony
http://code.google.com/p/android/is...t&colspec=ID Type Status Owner Summary Sta rs
http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-622231.html
All i found on it, hope it helped. Otherwise, good luck finding out a solution.
Devastatin said:
I use a HT820 by Motorola and do not have any issues with skipping.
Started stock, then CM, now froyo. no issues on any of these roms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have the same headphones and only notice skipping when I'm walking fast, with my phone in my pocket...or I turn my head away from the phone. But that's all my doing, not the phone.
Hey guys
So I recently got the Nokia Lumia 1020 after being an android user since day one. Rooted and everything
I have couple of issues and questions that have arise since then.
1. How can I change the search button to bring up google instead of bing? I have read that you have to change your language to Russia but I would not want to do that
2. With my Note 3, HTC one and other previous android devices, I was able to use maps with speech and use the FM radio on my deck together. Android would just mute the FM radio and give me the next direction.
With WP8, it seems like I have to select bluetooth source in order for speech to work, however I can no longer listen to the radio at the same time. Is there a fix/workaround for this?
3. NFC tags.. I recently bought a bunch.. however I noticed that you can't have the nfc tags to change the settings but just launch the settings app? So I would need 3 NFC tags to turn off BT, turn off wifi and enable gps? Seems..... any fix?
Thanks
- Sashi
1: Basically not possible until we "root" the 1020. Maybe if a bootloader exploit is found. Otherwise, only devices sold in markets where Bing doesn't have much presence - such as Russia, I guess - support that option. You can install apps for other search engines, but the button is sort of "hard-coded" to the Bing app.
2: WP7 used the Headset mode of Bluetooth (Hands-Free Profile) for driving directions, but that was built into the OS. Apparently Here Drive can't or won't do that (I consider this a regression, since my car doesn't support the audio profile) so the car needs to be using BT audio (A2DP, I think) to give directions. However, as a work-around, you can of course play media *from the phone* and it should work fine (it will be muted while directions are spoken). Whether you use internally stored MP3s, streaming music from the built-in Xbox Music (formerly Zune Pass), one of many apps (such as Pandora), or the phone's built-in FM receiver (requires that headphone wires be connected, since that's what it uses as an antenna, but otherwise possible), you can have your music and directions both.
3: Yeah, for reasons of their own, Microsoft hasn't exposed any way for third-party developers to toggle various settings directly. With that said, though... There's basically no need to turn either BT or WiFi off; they draw extremely little power when not in use (and by default, WiFi turns off while the screen is off and there's no external power anyhow). As for GPS, unlike Android's incomprehensibly wasteful approach, on WP8 it is *always* inactive unless an app or OS feature is explicitly using it, so as long as you remember to close the navigation app when you're done with it, there's no need to manually turn off location services.
Hope that helps.
GoodDayToDie said:
1: Basically not possible until we "root" the 1020. Maybe if a bootloader exploit is found. Otherwise, only devices sold in markets where Bing doesn't have much presence - such as Russia, I guess - support that option. You can install apps for other search engines, but the button is sort of "hard-coded" to the Bing app.
2: WP7 used the Headset mode of Bluetooth (Hands-Free Profile) for driving directions, but that was built into the OS. Apparently Here Drive can't or won't do that (I consider this a regression, since my car doesn't support the audio profile) so the car needs to be using BT audio (A2DP, I think) to give directions. However, as a work-around, you can of course play media *from the phone* and it should work fine (it will be muted while directions are spoken). Whether you use internally stored MP3s, streaming music from the built-in Xbox Music (formerly Zune Pass), one of many apps (such as Pandora), or the phone's built-in FM receiver (requires that headphone wires be connected, since that's what it uses as an antenna, but otherwise possible), you can have your music and directions both.
3: Yeah, for reasons of their own, Microsoft hasn't exposed any way for third-party developers to toggle various settings directly. With that said, though... There's basically no need to turn either BT or WiFi off; they draw extremely little power when not in use (and by default, WiFi turns off while the screen is off and there's no external power anyhow). As for GPS, unlike Android's incomprehensibly wasteful approach, on WP8 it is *always* inactive unless an app or OS feature is explicitly using it, so as long as you remember to close the navigation app when you're done with it, there's no need to manually turn off location services.
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for 1 & 3
However with #2, I would like to have my USB that is plugged into my car deck AND driving directions at the same time. With android this is possible... but not with WP8
What? I must be misunderstanding you, because there's no problem at all with having USB plugged in while getting directions. Or did you mean you're getting the music off the USB (you said radio before, which the phone is capable of doing by itself) and hence the USB is a different input that the BT?
My usual approach in my car is cigarette lighter -> USB adapter -> phone -> ripping cable (I'd use BT if my car would do it for music) -> car stereo AUX port, and that works fine for getting both music and directions. Swap out the aux port and the ripping cable for Bluetooth and it will still work fine (as I've found when I had to rent cars).
That's correct, my deck has a Bluetooth source as well as a USB source.
I have to select Bluetooth source in order to get voice directions to the car speakers but if I select USB source the voice navigation no longer works
Yeah, that's a pain. Is there some reason you can't play your music/audiobooks/podcasts/whatever through the phone, though? Yeah, it's annoying to need to change what works, but on the plus side, it's all your media on one fewer device than you're using now.
GoodDayToDie said:
Yeah, that's a pain. Is there some reason you can't play your music/audiobooks/podcasts/whatever through the phone, though? Yeah, it's annoying to need to change what works, but on the plus side, it's all your media on one fewer device than you're using now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would like to use USB because that way I can save the storage on my phone for pictures and stuff
I finally managed to get Bixby Routines reinstalled on my phone (it was in the Galaxy store and I somehow either missed it every single time I looked, or they just added it). I am using it to send Spotify to my various bluetooth devices while all my notifications play on the phone. I have it set up with 3 devices - an Anker Soundcore, a pair of SkullCandy Ink'd Wireless earbuds, and my 2015 VW Golf. I'm running into some weird issues, though. Note that all 3 routines are set up the same way - IF BT is connected to X, THEN App: Spotify / Audio Device: Bluetooth
1. Whenever Separate App Sound is initiated, either on the previously connected device or a different device, it throws up the "Change main audio output device?" notification, meaning every time I connect to BT, I have to do that. If that's the case, why bother with the routine and not just toggle the SAS with each device manually since I need to interact anyway? When I do toggle it manually and hit OK on the notification, it works flawlessly, sending Spotify to BT and everything else (IG, Messages, YouTube, etc.) through the phone's speakers.
2. With the way the Golf head unit connects to BT, it kind of connects, then disconnects, then connects again, making the phone get weird mixed messages which triggers the routine in a weird way. Is there a way to delay the BT connection on the phone until the head unit is fully booted up?
The only thing I can figure is that maybe I'm not technically following the "make sure you choose an audio device that is different from your main audio output device." rule since when I'm connected to BT, that's the main audio output.
I have a separate Samsung S10 phone for Android Auto use only in my car (Mercedes EQC). The Android Auto phone is used for Google Maps, media control (controlling a Pi with a 2 TB SSD and a music library of around 200 000 tracks hidden in the center console - I don't use streaming at all, both for privacy reasons and because a lot of my underground extreme metal is not on any streaming services). The problem is that the car puts that phone as the first phone in the list, and sometimes it doesn't even connect by BT to my phone and my wife's phone. Can I block Android Auto from using the phone part of it, or make it think that the S10 is a tablet, so I avoid this problem? I have tried to turn off the phone radio (flight mode, and then only activate wifi, which I use to connect to the Pi), but that doesn't help.
Did you check in Android Auto Settings if "keep Bluetooth on" is on?
Yeah, that one was off, but t seems that AA doesn't obey it. But it got me thinking, and I remembered that I had this working the last time I was messing around with AA. I finally found it in AA Tweaker, a tweak named "connect automatically to bluetooth" or something like that. Finally I got it working! Thanks for jogging my memory!