Database Develop

USB port variations: loose & not connecting? (pics added!)

I've scoured this forum, but can't find a similar problem. Perhaps someone can be of assistance:
My Tilt RLoDed after 3 months. The replacement unit wouldn't place or receive calls. I'm on my third Tilt (second refurb unit), and I figured out why this one was returned too:
The USB port is "loose." I connected to the computer initially and synced, but then I heard the Windows USB disconnect sound... followed quickly by the reconnect sound. I immediately thought, "loose connection!"
Sure enough, the plug wiggles within the port. The port isn't wiggling in the phone, just the plug in the port - as if the port were slightly too big or the plug slightly too small.

Just to add a little info:
My first and second Tilts both fit the plug more snugly. Tighter. Grippier. They wiggled a little, but not nearly like this most recent one does. And of course they never disconnected and reconnected as a result.
But why? Turns out the ports are different! I hadn't sent my second one back yet, so I compared them. In the pic below, the bottom port is like my first and second Tilts (snug fit), and the top port is my third (current) Tilt with the loose connection.
Why the difference? Does anyone else have this problem?
I can't think of anything to do but order my *fourth* Tilt.
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yo bro, it's me again.
Well I have to agree with you. It looks like it's due to a change in the port. I have the second one and it's snug.
Honestly ( your gonna hate this ). But if I were you, I'd just exchange the device again. Don't settle for second best or good enough on a device whose retail price is over $550. Remember, for $550 we can buy an inexpensive laptop or a cheapy car.

Yep, I too have the lower picture as my port and it's snug with car charger and usb cable for PC.

Thanks y'all. And thanks for reminding me about the price tag.
Off to spend some QT on the phone with ATT.

Just got my replacement tilt for the "bad usb" port problem. Mine would sync
ok, but, would ONLY charge on the AC charger, not the car charger.
I noticed on your pictures that the bottom of the USB connector did the same
thing as mine did. Where the metal is formed at the bottom, has pulled open
and you can see a noticeable gap. Also on mine, you can see the right side
of the middle section of the connector it pushed down a bit.

Shove some paper is the gap, that'll stop the wiggle.

how do your tilt's port get so messed up? haha, i cant comprehend how it can get to that stage.

JEEZUS man those pictures were NSFW. I had to shield my tilt's virgin screen from those pictures.

NguyenHuu said:
how do your tilt's port get so messed up? haha, i cant comprehend how it can get to that stage.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I shouldn't feel the need to defend myself, but I do.
My first Tilt I owned for three months without a USB problem - probably looked a lot like the second picture posted by p51d007 - a good port.
The second Tilt I had is the bottom one on my post. It was shipped to me as a refurb and I had it in my possession for a whopping 48 hours. If the metal on the port was slightly separated, it was definitely like that when I got it.
The third Tilt I have is another refurb. I've had it since last Friday, and will be sending it back this Friday when they send me my fourth Tilt. It's USB plug isn't in bad condition per se, it's just a different design and way too loose.
So there it is. I take care of my stuff.
PS - Love the avatar, p51d007! You a B-52 pilot?

No, my dad was in SAC in the 50's
drokkon said:
PS - Love the avatar, p51d007! You a B-52 pilot?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Still off-topic...
p51d007 said:
No, my dad was in SAC in the 50's
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice - my dad flew F-111's and 16's in the 80's and 90's. I think he must have been under SAC in the 111 - it was nuke-capable.

My dad was a "boomer". KC-97 refueling operator. He got out of the Air Force when the B-52's were coming online. He did get to refuel B-47's though.
Biggest plane he saw was the B-36 Peacemaker. Said when one took off, landed or flew over, it would make your teeth rattle

In post #2 the first pic is the new USB port by HTC its on the Polaris, Touch Slide and looks like the newer Kaisers, mines got the 2nd port which is the old port which is also on the Touch. THe top one does'nt break too easy

aksd said:
In post #2 the first pic is the new USB port by HTC its on the Polaris, Touch Slide and looks like the newer Kaisers, mines got the 2nd port which is the old port which is also on the Touch. THe top one does'nt break too easy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I prefer the old one then. I guess I should be happy that they sent me a "newer" refurb, but even if it doesn't break as easily as the old one, the USB port is too loose, causing disconnects and reconnects.
Thanks for that info though!!!

drokkon said:
Well I prefer the old one then. I guess I should be happy that they sent me a "newer" refurb, but even if it doesn't break as easily as the old one, the USB port is too loose, causing disconnects and reconnects.
Thanks for that info though!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Basically its not your USB port thats shaking but the port being too big for the mini USB plug on your charger, what you can do is add a bit of celotape as packing on the top face and bottom face of the charger plug, should sort things out.

aksd said:
Basically its not your USB port thats shaking but the port being too big for the mini USB plug on your charger, what you can do is add a bit of celotape as packing on the top face and bottom face of the charger plug, should sort things out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right - that's what I meant to say. But if it's a standardized port... what's going on?
As someone so eloquently put it earlier, don't settle for "good enough" on a $500 piece of equipment. I really wouldn't want to put the tape on multiple chargers anyway, and then run into problems when I have other mini-USB devices that I can't charge with them.
*shrug*

drokkon said:
Right - that's what I meant to say. But if it's a standardized port... what's going on?
As someone so eloquently put it earlier, don't settle for "good enough" on a $500 piece of equipment. I really wouldn't want to put the tape on multiple chargers anyway, and then run into problems when I have other mini-USB devices that I can't charge with them.
*shrug*
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice the HTC earphones fit snuggly though, no shake, my HTC charger fits ok too, but the motorola one shakes a bit. We'll I see your point, but any phone I've bought to date has required a bit of tape somewhere or the other. ANd having worked in the cellphone service industry for a bit, I see what happens behind the scenes and trust me its not pretty , I'd rather fix my phone myself rather than give it to the service center unless its a major issue. We'll thats just me

aksd said:
I did notice the HTC earphones fit snuggly though, no shake, my HTC charger fits ok too, but the motorola one shakes a bit. We'll I see your point, but any phone I've bought to date has required a bit of tape somewhere or the other. ANd having worked in the cellphone service industry for a bit, I see what happens behind the scenes and trust me its not pretty , I'd rather fix my phone myself rather than give it to the service center unless its a major issue. We'll thats just me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you sound much more experienced than I! Both my stock charger and stock USB plug fit loosely into this new port, and I get another phone tomorrow anyway, but I'll definitely keep that in mind.

Close-ups are amazing!
p51d007- Sorry to be off topic but I have to ask. How did you take those close-ups? They are so good. Please tell me what camera, settings, lighting you used. Thanks. And sorry for jacking the thread.

inductive charging mod for defy

I finally made one.
wanted to do this for a long time.
One of the harder mods i made.
-extremly small solder points.
-should still be water resistant afterwards
-wont charge without data pins connected - but usb should still be usable.
here it is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZOSdcRLA-mo
I spend more then 10 hours in total to do this. Was it worth it?
=D hell yeah!

strong electromagnetic field does not damage data on a memory card?

its not long term
yes you can charge like this but with this kind of chargers your phone's life + memory life will reduce because of strong magnetic / electromagnetic field so try use it in emergency only

rucheat said:
yes you can charge like this but with this kind of chargers your phone's life + memory life will reduce because of strong magnetic / electromagnetic field so try use it in emergency only
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i call bull****! sorry to sound like a prick, but i strongly dislike people talking out of there ass about things they don`t know **** about.
This wont damage anything. Infact, this "strong magnetic / electromagnetic field" won`t even reach the phone.
Maybe you read some more about that topic:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inductive_charging
http://www.engadget.com/tag/inductive charging/

Hi puked,
I would be very interested in knowing more about this mod you created. Good work by the way.
I was planning on doing something similar, I wanted to modify the car dock to charge the phone automatically when docked. I was thinking of adding 2 contact points on the back cover which would mate up with springs or some such on the car dock. I hate having to plug cables into the phone when putting the phone into the dock, bluetooth takes care of the audio nicely, just needed to get the charging sorted!
I'm particulary interested in hearing your experience of where you tapped into in the Defy. Did you solder directly to the back of the the USB connector? And you mentioned needing to connect the data pins to invoke charging, can you explain a little more?

hi jurgen,
i should have made some photos during the process of making the mod. Sorry for that -.-
Yeah, I soldered directly to the back of the USB port. Only one wire needed for Vcc.
A pinout can be found here:
http://www.talkandroid.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/pinout-microUSB1.png
this is the micro USB port, when you look into it from the front.
A guide, how to disassemble the phone can be found via youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uSH1UuEOvI
you only need to remove the backcover and the plastic shielding over the USB Port - this is easy.
To be able to reach the pin for soldering, you need to remove the antenna, too.
I drilled a hole into the plastic shielding to lead the cable through. You have to do this; there is no room to lead the cable otherwise.
Put the plastic shield back on, and fixate the cable on it.
to lead this point to the top of the battery, I used adhesive copper-foil.
GND can be taken from different points - I used the slot of the sim-card. lead this point to the top, too.
The receiver i used is from the cover of a palm pre.
The problem I had after I finished the mod: Phone won`t charge. Why? Well - dumb Moto decided the phone will only charge if USB is connected. You have to shorten the Data-Pins.
How did I do this? I got myself some micro USB plugs. remove the pins and dremel/saw it so small, that it fits into the slot completely. Remove the metal shielding and insert one of the pins from underneath (there are small holes, that normaly hold the pins in place). you eventually have to melt the plastic between the holes, so that the metal bridge fits. It should be flat and not stick out. You now have to shorten the pins sticking out on top, so that they are exactly as long as the pins would be.
Sound complicated and is complicated and damn frustrating, cause the whole thing is so tiny. we are talking about maybe 2mm at most.
Afterwards you have to isolate the whole thing. Instead of re-attaching. the metal shield, use some duct tape or similar.
This thing is sturdy if done correctly and easily removable, if you should need the USB Port.
I`m sure there are other possibilities do do make such a plug. This method worked for me.
I`ll make some photos later and post some links to a similar project for the Samsung Galaxy+. I hope it`ll be quite clear afterwards.
If someone wants to do this mod, I suggest you to start with the micro USB plug. Would be very frustrating, if you mod the phone first, and fail making a plug. Without it the whole mod is useless.
Maybe someone knows if it is possible to change something in software (CM7), so that the damn phone will charge without the pins connected. I still hope, this is possible, but didn`t get any feedback to this question as of yet.

Thank you for the very detailed response and the links.
I'll look into the links later, the shorting plug sounds like a pain to get right! Hopefully, as you say, there is a software setting/workaround that can bypass this.

Very interesting project!!! Impressive! One question that comes up: How long does it take to fully charge the battery?

Hi puked,
that's awesome work, congratulations for getting it working!
I did the same thing to my defy a couple of months ago, but I had less success unfortunately. I soldered it in and, like you, I noticed it did not charge when power was applied to the port. I eventually figured out that the pins need to be shorted, so did so, and have managed to nearly get it working.
The problem is, it only works if i take the coil out of the back and push it onto the touchstone base so there is little to no air gap. If it's even slightly off centre, the charging constantly restarts and it doesn't work. I haven't managed to get it to work with the coil in the case. I haven't installed the magnets/steel discs, as I wanted to get it working reliably first.
I wanted to ask, did you find it had to be perfectly centred for it to work? Did gluing the magnets in help here? Did you do anything special with the metal sheild behind the coil?
Craig

puked said:
i should have made some photos during the process of making the mod. Sorry for that -.-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Puked,
Can you please take the battery cover of your phone and make a picture of the inside? This might help me to see if I will try to make this mod myself....
Thank you.

Hi Puked
First of all Thanks and Congratulations for making it work. Awaiting photos before I touch the screw drivers

Hi and sorry for not responding for such a long time. I´m very busy at the moment, sorry :/
I promise i will make some more photos this evening and update this post with them.
To answer Craigms questions:
I cut the "metal shield, so that it fits - it`s a bit to wide to fit in without shortening. I diden`t use the little round metal plates from the palm cover (these are no magnets), instead i used sheeting from a tin.
To find the best spot on the touchstone, i used wires to link cover and phone, so that i could move the cover around. when i found the optimal place on the touchstone, i attached the sheeting and fixated it.
I also had to dremel down the plastic inside the battery cover so that it fits and closes without pressure.
Notice: The first touchstones seem to be faulty - they have problems even with the original HP phones.
I have problems aligning the phone as well, sometimes. But that only happens, if battery drops below ~30% - that rarely happens since I modded my phone.
Edit:
pictures:
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Nice work. I've actually just finished a Touchstone Car-Cradle for my Defy.
My problem is the shorting of the data pins... damn those tiny plug .
Puked, you wrote that one doesn't need the metal shielding of the plug but in the picture you've posted there is a metal shield around the plug... Without the shield it seemed to me, that the plug is too lose and the data pins have no connection. On the other hand, with shield it's really hard to remove the plug from the defy... in fact there's currently one stuck in the USB port :|.
Having destroyed three plugs with my oversized soldering iron, I now need to wait for new ones before I can continue :/.
Could you please post a picture of the micro-USB plug alone? So I can maybe follow your lead

Yeah - the plug is a pain in the ass. If I would have known, that the phone wont charge without them connected, I could have solved this problem in a different way.
best thing to do would be to solder 2 more cables to the data pins and shortem them via battery cover - similar how I did it with Vcc and ground - just with data.
You are indeed right - there is a metal shielding. I made a new plug. Will make photos later.
btw. I still believe (hope) that one could make the phone charge without the pins shortened via software.

Easy fix for stock charging cable

So after ending up on my third cable, I've decided to attempt a fix for the problem. The issue that I've had is the end flexing to much/often ending in broken solder joints at the micro USB connection. To alleviate this I performed the following...
1. Carefully drill o hole in the top of the connector shell above the n. This hole needs only be large enough to allow air to escape.
2. Drill second hole below n on connector, slightly larger to accept end of mixing nozzle from 5 min epoxy.
3. Insert end off mixing tube into second hole and fill case to capacity. Allow to partially set and trim overflow/excess with razor knife or similar tool.
After doing this the circuit board and connector in the end of the cable are potted in epoxy and can no longer flex at the solder joint.
Hopefully this will end the problem. Be aware that this WILL cancel any warranty on the cable!! There will be obvious holes in the plastic, although they will be filled with epoxy if done correctly.
Pics to follow...
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

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The epoxy I used...as a bonus the connector is now water resistant
The holes I drilled..could be placed on bottom or side...just be careful not to go too far and wreck the PCB or wires
The placement of the mixer tube...I did this with the connector flat on the table and the syringe straight up and down so as to get good injection.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium
Edit:
A few hours down the road..epoxy has fully cured...zero flex on the connector now..like its set in concrete. Cable is functioning perfectly. Noticed that some resinmust have forced into the jacketing of the cable...really stiff for a half inch or so directly from the plastic end shell...additional stress relief?

Next up, I will attempt to repair the last cable I had...the one that the end DIDN'T break all the way off.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

Please do report back. I have a dead cable on my desk right now. Where did you get the epoxy?
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

Local hardware store...having trouble finding the other cable...think the wife may have tossed it...
The one I did the fix on is holding up well. Maybe to well. I'm almost thinking about opening my NC up and putting a blob of epoxy on the internal connector...all the stress is on it now.
Edit: update on second cable...
Its a no go. Apparently there must have been damage to the chips inside the end. All I can get is the red led out of it. Wish I had a good magnifying set to see the part numbers...this thing doesn't look that hard to duplicate, other than getting a hold of that 12 pin end.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

k8108 said:
... I have a dead cable on my desk right now. ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take it to B&N and swap it out.

Yep, I have to agree. Get a new on from B&N. The traces on the PCB in the end connector are beyond most peoples skills to fix. They are damn small.
As I stated above..this fix has completely solidified my cables end...but it is putting more stress on the receptacle in the nook itself. I'm starting to think that the cable design is no accident..the cable is cheaper for B&N to replace than the cost for replacing/fixing the NC itself.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

MISRy said:
Take it to B&N and swap it out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on my 5th or more cord right now. I tried taking them to my local BN, but no go. I have to call and get a new one sent to me. I got the extended warranty on my NC, thank goodness! So I will just keep calling away when my cord breaks. They never give me a hard time about replacing them.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

I used my charger from my blackberry..it worked in a pinch until i got my replacement B&N cable...I don't think it ever fully charged but it was enough to get me by

deadbot1 said:
[...] As I stated above..this fix has completely solidified my cables end...but it is putting more stress on the receptacle in the nook itself. I'm starting to think that the cable design is no accident..the cable is cheaper for B&N to replace than the cost for replacing/fixing the NC itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've purchased some Sugru and plan to try reinforcing my NC charge cables. I tested it on another connector, and it provides a strong yet flexible shroud. It might be a good middle ground. I'll be able to test this weekend.

Good luck. The problem( for me at least) has never been the cable, but rather the solder joint where the micro USB joins to the tiny PCB in the end( the circuit with the leds for the n logo). That seems to be the major stress point. All my fix does is prevent that joint from flexing. It does this by supporting both the connector and the PCB at the same time.
I'm not sure about using sugru inside that same area. I don't know if it is electrically inert or not. MOST epoxy resins are, especially the clear ones.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

I'm hoping using Sugru over the joint where the cable inserts into the 'n' LED housing will reduce that flexing without making it too rigid. A bit more to widen up the cable housing where it inserts into the NC to stabilize the plug and reduce flex on the device.
Then again, a sample of one means nothing. I just hope to keep it working longer.
Your caution about merely transferring the strain to the internal connector is appreciated!

bobstro said:
I'm hoping using Sugru over the joint where the cable inserts into the 'n' LED housing will reduce that flexing without making it too rigid. A bit more to widen up the cable housing where it inserts into the NC to stabilize the plug and reduce flex on the device.
Then again, a sample of one means nothing. I just hope to keep it working longer.
Your caution about merely transferring the strain to the internal connector is appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anything touching the metal at the end of the plug will stop it from fully inserting into the charging port. I think the epoxy method is the best way to help the cable. Another alternative would be a charging dock that doesn't allow the cable to be pulled down but this would preclude the option of using the nook while charging.
I have lost 3 cables now...

Well, so far so good. My "fixed" cable seems to be holding up just fine. Still have my concerns about overstressing the connector on the nook itself...but so far no issues. Guess if it breaks ill just have to upgrade to a more expensive toy.
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

Thanks for this post. the nook charger is kind of stupid expensive for what it is. I saw a thing once that you could adhere to a device and it would hold the cable out away from the dock. Can't find it now (that i'm actually looking for it) but it seems like it would take stress off the dock and weak parts of the cable.

I've been thinking and looking at it more. I'm toying with modifying the connector end so that it will sort of go over the nook body, giving no area for flexing the internal connector. Instead of a plug in it would end up being the plug in the center, with stabilizers over the top and against the back. Still figuring out how to make it. Sugru doesn't seem strong enough. Maybe ill do a modified paper mache using epoxy as the binder.
Will post pics and process when I get it figured out. Suggestions welcome!
Sent from my NookColor using xda premium

I'd try InstaMorph or some steel filled epoxy putty, although the latter might be too rigid. InstaMorph is nice because you can reuse it.

Is not posible just to use a normal USB to microUSB cable with the Nook Charger... i mean, just replace the USB cable?

A 'normal' microUSB cable will charge at a low rate compared to the stock NC cable and suitable power supply.

bbqncigars said:
A 'normal' microUSB cable will charge at a low rate compared to the stock NC cable and suitable power supply.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.... didn't know that. My kids have gone thru three on their two nooks, and mine finally broke. Any good sources for a high rate cable? Bought one for my son an B&N before for like$25.... ridiculous!
Sent from my SPH-D700 using xda premium

My Amateur Tablet In Dash Car Installation

I thought I'd share this here, in case anyone is interested, and to not go off topic in this thread in the Q&A section that was interested in some detail of my build.
I couldn't find an aftermarket stereo that was as customizable, or had as many features as I'd like. My car is a 02 Mitsubishi Lancer which also is designed for a single DIN stereo, which limited my selection as well. I decided a while back that I wanted to attempt a tablet dash install, and when the Nexus 7 came out, I decided it was time to start on this project.This was my first attempt working with fiberglass, bondo, vinyl wrap, and I'm sure a few other aspects of the project I'm missing.
I failed to take pictures at all steps, as it was trial and error for awhile anyways. Here are some photos of some of the process and a parts list.
Also my Home Screens I created for this very purpose.
Parts List:
Nexus 7
4 Channel Amplifier
Four Gauge Power & Ground Wires
Speaker Wire Cable
2 RCA Plug Cable
3.5mm Stereo Male to 2RCA Male Cable
1/Female to 2/Male Y Connector Cable x 2
RCA Volume Level Control
AC Power Inverter
Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Extension Socket
Radio Wiring Harness Adapter
RadioTrim Piece
Fiberglass Resin
Fiberglass Cloth
Bondo
3M Brushed Black Metal Vinyl Wrap
Ground Loop Isolator (Optional)
Semi Finished Final Product
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RadioTrim Piece found in a junkyard that I cut the innards out of and filled with fiberglass and bondo. My car dash originally looks something like this.
So I had to create something that would house a 7" tablet, and also relocate my temperature controls.
Radio Trim Piece covered with Adhesive Promoter and paint.
Nexus 7 without Radio Trim. Backing is a piece of pegboard cut to fit in dash.
Radio Trim without tablet
Volume Control Knob
Cadence 4-Channel 1000 Watt Amp
Power Inverter

Amazing.. so I'm assuming you tether off a hot spot of some sort?

crachel said:
Amazing.. so I'm assuming you tether off a hot spot of some sort?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you, yep, I still have the original Evo 4G for my phone. I just have a tasker shortcut to toggle a Portable Hotpsot. It's only 3G but its worked pretty well so far

looks nice! the work with the fibre glass is very good!
the only issue I have is the use of an inverter, couldnt you have got a in car usb adapter? as this would mean 1 less power conversion.

Assuming you're leaving the Nexus 7 in the dash, aren't you worried about the heat?

markp1989 said:
looks nice! the work with the fibre glass is very good!
the only issue I have is the use of an inverter, couldnt you have got a in car usb adapter? as this would mean 1 less power conversion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I was just going to use a USB adapter, but I tried the 3 I already owned, and none of them would register it was charging. I bought a 4th that I thought would do the job, and had the same problem. I'm sure its possible with the right charger, and I may end up switching it out later. I just ended up being impatient and went with the inverter lol.
jabsys said:
Assuming you're leaving the Nexus 7 in the dash, aren't you worried about the heat?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a concern. It's been in the car for maybe 24 hours now and no problems yet, but I plan on running out to my car to check it on my breaks and lunch tomorrow and probably throughout the work week to see how it holds up. If it becomes an issue I may need to take it out, if the car will be sitting for long stretches of time, or find another solution.
I saw a thread awhile back where someone else bought some sun shades to try and keep the temperature down inside the car. I guess we'll see how it holds up over the next few days.

Somebody put a nook color in a ...Wrangler I want to say? He didn't seem to have any trouble leaving it in there.
Yeah, here it is.

mateorod said:
Somebody put a nook color in a ...Wrangler I want to say? He didn't seem to have any trouble leaving it in there.
Yeah, here it is.
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Click to collapse
I think his was on a dock. I know one guy had his in a smart car as well. Here.
Looks good though. I've thought about doing it in my car with my NC.

Nice job. Looks good.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

Looks cool man

mateorod said:
Somebody put a nook color in a ...Wrangler I want to say? He didn't seem to have any trouble leaving it in there.
Yeah, here it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
biohazrd51 said:
I think his was on a dock. I know one guy had his in a smart car as well. Here.
Looks good though. I've thought about doing it in my car with my NC.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, good to hear others havent had overheating issues with similar installations.
I've been looking into this stuff for the last couple months now and I don't think I've seen either of those two builds, thanks.
I know this instructables build and too many random YouTube videos to list on different in-dash installs is what got me finally started in on this project.

You might want to consider some kind of retractable or removable cover. Couple of reasons. One...it can keep direct sunlight off the unit. That would probably be the biggest issue with this setup. Second, it would deter theft. Generally, a thief might not risk breaking into a car to guess what's behind curtain #1...if you know what I mean. However, seeing a full blown tablet in a home made setup (e.g. not built into the vehicle/easy to steal) might be too tempting for some crack head.
Mostly blocking indirect sunlight though...

had an acer a100 perm installed in my dash for several months even here in sunny florida i only got heat warnings when the sun was directly hitting the tablet, using a windshield shade when parked was sufficient to keep the heat warnings from coming on
i'm waiting for the pogo pin dock to be released before the nexus 7 gets a spot in the dashboard, i dont want a perm install again as i like using this tablet outside of the car too

ExploreMN said:
You might want to consider some kind of retractable or removable cover. Couple of reasons. One...it can keep direct sunlight off the unit. That would probably be the biggest issue with this setup. Second, it would deter theft. Generally, a thief might not risk breaking into a car to guess what's behind curtain #1...if you know what I mean. However, seeing a full blown tablet in a home made setup (e.g. not built into the vehicle/easy to steal) might be too tempting for some crack head.
Mostly blocking indirect sunlight though...
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Click to collapse
b22ri22an said:
had an acer a100 perm installed in my dash for several months even here in sunny florida i only got heat warnings when the sun was directly hitting the tablet, using a windshield shade when parked was sufficient to keep the heat warnings from coming on
i'm waiting for the pogo pin dock to be released before the nexus 7 gets a spot in the dashboard, i dont want a perm install again as i like using this tablet outside of the car too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the tips, and again its good to hear these reports of other tablet installs with minimal overheating issues. I checked on it today at lunch and it was hot to the touch, but functioning fine, i believe the temperature on the tablet read 134 F..... It was maybe 80 here outside in WI today. I think I'll definitely be investing in a windshield shade to be on the safe side at the very minimum.
I have a Transformer Prime for my other tablet and at this point I was going for a perma install look, although it isn't all too difficult to remove from the dash if needed.

ahavens17 said:
Thanks for the tips, and again its good to hear these reports of other tablet installs with minimal overheating issues. I checked on it today at lunch and it was hot to the touch, but functioning fine, i believe the temperature on the tablet read 134 F..... It was maybe 80 here outside in WI today. I think I'll definitely be investing in a windshield shade to be on the safe side at the very minimum.
I have a Transformer Prime for my other tablet and at this point I was going for a perma install look, although it isn't all too difficult to remove from the dash if needed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh AHeavens, you're a neighbor then. So you know we top the hundreds a few weeks every summer. So if a 80 degree day warms the tab to 135, imagine what one of our 105 days would do to it!
Not to mention our winters where it gets to -35 to -40!
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Nice install! i've never had the courage to break out the bondo!
I've installed the Nexus 7 in my WRX too. The trick to getting USB charging to work via a cig adapter is to put a USB hub inline. I pulled apart a tomtop GPS charger and wired it into the factory stereo wiring then plugged a USB hub into it and then the N7 (and my Galaxy S3) into the hub and they both charge nicely.
Having trouble with the audio output though, it is horrible... it buzzes every time i touch the screen and it buzzes when wifi is active and it is just generally crap.
I would like to plug in a USB soundcard (DAC), something like the Fiio E10 but then i wouldn't be able to charge the tab while USB OTG is active.
I was hoping that the pogo pins on the side would allow charging whilst the USB dock connector could be used for OTG but it doesn't look like it will work since both the pogo pins and USB connector go to the same usb switch internally.
I might put up a thread on my WRX N7 install.
edit: here it is: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1819175
another edit: there seems to be a thread on the charging issues... i have also just found that my tab drains it's battery faster than it can charge it...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1791717

The ultimate car install: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0o1zkqEuec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

I put my nexus 7 in my dash for 3 hours one day it turned off on me... I assume because it was too hot.
For now I remove it when I get to work and leave it in the car when I am home. I have no issues in the garage. Only problem is the place I mounted mine is a perfect fit and no room for the usb charging cable till I modify the hood but I am hoping for the pogo dock soon.
Sent from my Nexus 7

kangxi said:
The ultimate car install: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0o1zkqEuec&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice!
How are they getting connected? Bluetooth, wifi tether, hotspot, ...?

when I get a car I would definitely spend the $250 bucks to have a really sexy media player in the dash

[Q]-Power port repair

Hi folks. For some reason, a small chunk of the tab inside my DS7 power port has been broken. It looks like somebody got hungry and chewed a tiny piece of it off. So as of right now, the power cable will not charge the DS7. I noticed on ebay somebody selling repair service for it and was quoted
it's $39 for the part plus $59 to install it. best, maik
Click to expand...
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$100 seems a tad expensive as it's over 1/2 what I paid for it. Does anybody have any recommendations like a DIY kit or know of somebody doing cheaper repairs? I like this little, fiesty tablet and am not ready to scrap it quite yet especially if the JB rom gets going.

NapalmDawn said:
Hi folks. For some reason, a small chunk of the tab inside my DS7 power port has been broken. It looks like somebody got hungry and chewed a tiny piece of it off. So as of right now, the power cable will not charge the DS7. I noticed on ebay somebody selling repair service for it and was quoted
$100 seems a tad expensive as it's over 1/2 what I paid for it. Does anybody have any recommendations like a DIY kit or know of somebody doing cheaper repairs? I like this little, fiesty tablet and am not ready to scrap it quite yet especially if the JB rom gets going.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buy the part and install it your self, there is a disassembly guid in general too

Nocturnal_50 said:
buy the part and install it your self, there is a disassembly guid in general too
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Click to collapse
Hi Noc and thanks for the info. Does it require any soldering or is this a fairly simple setup?

If it's the port, you either need just the port itself (which requires soldering) or the entire motherboard (which could be pricy)

once the streak is disassembled its a 5min job to remove the old one and attach then new one (given that you are alright at soldering) the risk with this is that you could short the mobo if you suck at soldering

Nocturnal_50 said:
once the streak is disassembled its a 5min job to remove the old one and attach then new one (given that you are alright at soldering) the risk with this is that you could short the mobo if you suck at soldering
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn. I have no soldering equipment here nor have I ever done it.

NapalmDawn said:
Damn. I have no soldering equipment here nor have I ever done it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
go to walmart and pick some up for about $15-35

I'll see if mine has some soldering equipment. Sad to lose that Steak just a few weeks after getting it.

My port is broken too, no way i could solder a 30pin connector with my eqiupment. Can anyone post a picture where I can find the two power pins. Are they on the left or on the right side. All I want is to charge it. I see some little circles on the board that could be additional places to solder my two cables, anyone any ideas ? I know it isnt the best solution to have a cable looking out of my streak but i alrdy bought a female mini usb connector. That could be of good use here. If needed i could make a photo of the circle pins on the board so anyone could say me wich one is what.
Heres a picture of my board and the circles that i mentioned above.
s1.directupload.net/images/120816/6wwoczjm.jpg
-----
Edit
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Here it is:
s1.directupload.net/images/120816/5lnj8t69.jpg
Can anyone say me wich pins are for usb 2.0 data ?

broken ports
If I am posting to the wrong place I apologize. The real quesrtion is this is why do the pins keep burning off. The second question is why did dell stop all support for the ds7. The ds7 was and is defective from the start. Dell now refuses any support. I have two ds7s with the same problem. So I ask how many of you agree there should be a class action law suit againt dell? My newest unit is four months old called dell the are refusing to do anything about the situation. I asked if I could send my ds7 in for repair and pay for repair, answer was no, dell is no longer doing repairs, to make things more upsetting dell is selling the ds7 at fry's for $200. Who is interest in a class
action lawsuit with me? I will start a suit with or without support. The whole ds7 problem is just plan wrong. Feel free to email me at [email protected]. btw I am almost sixty years old not a young person with a bad attitude. Wrong is wrong and dell is out of line with the ds7. Thanks. Bart

Dell may in longer be selling it. Fry's could just have a last batch if old stock.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

So this power port problem seems to happen rather frequently?

NapalmDawn said:
So this power port problem seems to happen rather frequently?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if its not the tablet its the charger or the proprietary cable (f*** you dell) I have had to repair the cable myself due to its abnormally short length and my habits of trying to use it away from the charger while it was on charge (heat shrink electrical plastic + solder fixed the issue though)
I'd say replacing the part yourself would take about 15min once device is disassembled

Nocturnal_50 said:
if its not the tablet its the charger or the proprietary cable (f*** you dell) I have had to repair the cable myself due to its abnormally short length and my habits of trying to use it away from the charger while it was on charge (heat shrink electrical plastic + solder fixed the issue though)
I'd say replacing the part yourself would take about 15min once device is disassembled
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly the ports on Ebay went back up to around $99. I *thought* I saw one for like 10. All the Dell 5 ports are cheap, the Dell 7 ones are basically almost the price I paid for the thing

Then get a new one, lol. Understand if you can't.

Anybody want to buy a Streak 7 and then repair it? It's rooted already.

NapalmDawn said:
..Hi folks. For some reason, a small chunk of the tab inside my DS7 power port has been broken. It looks like somebody got hungry and chewed a tiny piece of it off. So as of right now, the power cable will not charge the DS7...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have had two D7's with the issue. The first was due to a bent pin, took some tweezers and flattened the pin, then slightly bent the the metal casing of the charging cable outward- but bend it more toward the ends of each side, as a result the middle slightly bowed outward but it worked.
...and have to put the plug into the port at an extremely slight angle to go in smooth, once in, it charges fine. been using it that way for about 8months, no sweat.
The reason for slightly "opening" the ends of the the charging cable is so that it fits better over the end pins on the charging port tabs.
It is likely that some of those that have broken/cracked ports and/or bent pins wind up not working still because the edge of the charging cable catches on a pin, so by bending the cable housing just a little, it helps give it the lift to get over any pins that would normally catch and they'll make enough contact to charge and also connect via USB. That's also why plugging in at a slight angle helps the pin get "under" the outer housing of the charging cable.
However, the second one DS7 that had the issue more like what is in the initial post regarding an actual cracked charging port tab.
In mine, there's two small chunks of the top tab and one small chunk off the bottom tab in the power port. Yes, BOTH the bottom and top charging port tabs were damaged!
Mine was due to my little one horsing and tripping over the cord, when it yanked out at an angle...well...it got screwed up. At first it didn't seem like it was going to work, but after a little bit of careful fiddling...
Anyhow, I did have to use the tweezers again AND had to slightly bend the plug as described earlier. That said, I charge this thing daily and no issues, nor have to replace the port. If you fiddle around a little with the plug itself (ie. try bending it open just a little on the ends that match where the charging port tab pins were bent) and plugging in at a slight angle, it may very well help some of the others with this issue.
It's worked for me now on two different devices with very similar isues... so all I can say is these small tweaks worked for me...this DS7 has been charging/USB plugging fine for about 6 months of daily use... hope someone else can benefit.
Here's a few couple of (blurry )pics:
View of the cracked port - top tab was cracked, side view - screen facing "away"
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View of the cracked port - and the bottom tab was cracked/broken also, side view -screen facing "toward"
The end of the cable with the very slight bow outward because of slight spread outward to the ends of the housing

Hi Saint. Did you get a PM from me? I thought I sent one but I can't tell.

NapalmDawn said:
Hi Saint. Did you get a PM from me? I thought I sent one but I can't tell.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes. sent you something back.

I'm necroing this old thread because-IT WORKS! All i needed to do was replace the power cable. Despite the HORRIBLE condition the tab in the power port looks, the Streak 7 still gets charge and works now. Amazing. Onward ho to JB 4.2 from Honeycomb!