Related
This is the second release of Black Box G Logger.
What it does:
Polls the Sensor to get current acceleration in all three dimensions, and then records the data to pre-defined location, whilst displaying data in real time.
The time interval can be changed to allow for more or less results per minute. (Time in milliseconds between each check)
A maximum number of results to collect can be set.
The path for data storage can be changed.
Interpreting the data:
Currently, the data is stored as a csv file, which must be opened using Excel or similar on a desktop OS. The format is:
Day, Date, Time, X acceleration, Y acceleration, Z acceleration.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Thanks to:
Koush for the managed Diamond Sensor SDK
Logger for the idea
MonteCristoffOn for the icon!
Logger for testing!
Cmonex/Chainfire for testing!
Requires .NET CF 2.0 or above.
Requires HTC Touch Diamond, or re branded version, or HTC Raphael.
0.02 has a changed settings program, and has an icon.
0.03 has another changed icon.
0.05 has better settings...
BBGLUI 0.4 released... Has a user interface!.
Hit the button to change mode, and press and hold on the background to enter the settings page (logging of data is disabled by default). This version also allows for changing of the delimiter in the CSV file!
Download it here
first, thanks you for a new application. now for sure i'll think twice before i'll 911 you!
correct me if i am wrong. this is a first step towards this:
http://dynolicious.com/index.html ???
could this be a future application?
KukurikU said:
first, thanks you for a new application. now for sure i'll think twice before i'll 911 you!
correct me if i am wrong. this is a first step towards this:
http://dynolicious.com/index.html ???
could this be a future application?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible.
And, thanks to Koush giving us the OpenGL SDK for managed code, it may be faster than coding it all from scratch!
I'll work on it!
l3v5y said:
It's possible.
And, thanks to Koush giving us the OpenGL SDK for managed code, it may be faster than coding it all from scratch!
I'll work on it!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is the one application i should like to have from the iP. i can live without the beer and washing windows BS.
glad to see the wave of apps using the G sensor but being an engineer i am more attracted to the "water level-light level" type of apps
l3v5y Thanks. Simply amazing.
KukurikU said:
first, thanks you for a new application. now for sure i'll think twice before i'll 911 you!
correct me if i am wrong. this is a first step towards this:
http://dynolicious.com/index.html ???
could this be a future application?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Been following this app makes me glad to be witnessing the birth of it.
Luck fellass
I'm working on the maths behind the data for a Dynolicious type app (DynoDiamond anyone?) and then I need to work on a UI, and displaying the data.
In the mean time, anyone have any feature requests for "DynoDiamond" or Black Box G Logger?
l3v5y said:
I'm working on the maths behind the data for a Dynolicious type app (DynoDiamond anyone?) and then I need to work on a UI, and displaying the data.
In the mean time, anyone have any feature requests for "DynoDiamond" or Black Box G Logger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Was thinking Black Box G Logger is a bit of a mouthful. It could be just called Black Box. I won't be offended. Everyone knows a Black Box record things.
From the other thread...
l3v5y said:
The numbers are the acceleration (in meters per second squared). So, if the sensor is correctly calibrated, you should get a downward acceleration of 9.8, and nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for that. Now making more sense to me. Divide the difference between the static reading and the acceleration by 9.8 (or about 10) to get G force. Correct?
In one of the other gsen apps (klaxon I think) they talk about using a 20G threshold for some action to happen - when I think they really mean 20m/s2 or about 2G. Because I just shook the Sh1t out of my phone and the highest reading on any axis I can get is about 25 or roughly 2.5G. So any action requiring a 20G threshold would require the phone to be dropped hard and possibly broken.
Thanx for tidying up the time display column and adding the interval thing.
Ideas:
-A Start Stop switch to commence/cease recording to the log file. Only way to stop logging at present is to reboot.
-Wonder if a GUI or front end for BB could display
1) dynamic G in Gs not m/s2.
2) Variation form a running average or baseline. In other words whatever Axis is more or less constant at 9.8 is gravitational acceleration. Spikes represent G forces felt other than gravitational acceleration.
Question:
How would you expect a 20m/s2 acceleration 45 degrees to any two axis being displayed? And can these two be summed some how to read actual acceleration and therfore deduce G force at the oblique angle.
What I envisiage here is a situation where the app could display max vert G in an aircraft landing by deduction regardless of phone orientation.
Will go looking for an Orange Black Blox icon for you
Cheers
Logger
logger said:
In one of the other gsen apps (klaxon I think) they talk about using a 20G threshold for some action to happen - when I think they really mean 20m/s2 or about 2G. Because I just shook the Sh1t out of my phone and the highest reading on any axis I can get is about 25 or roughly 2.5G. So any action requiring a 20G threshold would require the phone to be dropped hard and possibly broken.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're right, I meant 20m/s^2. Not 20Gs, which is a lot of force! I'll fix that post.
No Worries.
Heres four Orange Data recorder icons. Fourth is prob the best but to be honest they are all crappy. What size should and ideal icon be for this jigger? These are 48x48 and doen it a real hurry.
logger said:
No Worries.
Heres four Orange Data recorder icons. Fourth is prob the best but to be honest they are all crappy. What size should and ideal icon be for this jigger? These are 48x48 and doen it a real hurry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They're a hell of a lot better than no icon at all!
logger said:
Was thinking Black Box G Logger is a bit of a mouthful. It could be just called Black Box. I won't be offended. Everyone knows a Black Box record things.
From the other thread...
Thanks for that. Now making more sense to me. Divide the difference between the static reading and the acceleration by 9.8 (or about 10) to get G force. Correct?
In one of the other gsen apps (klaxon I think) they talk about using a 20G threshold for some action to happen - when I think they really mean 20m/s2 or about 2G. Because I just shook the Sh1t out of my phone and the highest reading on any axis I can get is about 25 or roughly 2.5G. So any action requiring a 20G threshold would require the phone to be dropped hard and possibly broken.
Thanx for tidying up the time display column and adding the interval thing.
Ideas:
-A Start Stop switch to commence/cease recording to the log file. Only way to stop logging at present is to reboot.
-Wonder if a GUI or front end for BB could display
1) dynamic G in Gs not m/s2.
2) Variation form a running average or baseline. In other words whatever Axis is more or less constant at 9.8 is gravitational acceleration. Spikes represent G forces felt other than gravitational acceleration.
Question:
How would you expect a 20m/s2 acceleration 45 degrees to any two axis being displayed? And can these two be summed some how to read actual acceleration and therfore deduce G force at the oblique angle.
What I envisiage here is a situation where the app could display max vert G in an aircraft landing by deduction regardless of phone orientation.
Will go looking for an Orange Black Blox icon for you
Cheers
Logger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Black Box G Logger can be shortened to BBGL, and if it's just "Black Box" people may assume it logs over things. Although, I could add light sensing relatively easily!
I could do a GUI for it, and I'm thinking that would make the settings more easy to integrate.
I could deduce the angle of the device, but I'll need to work through some logic to get 45 degrees sorted. (Flat on any face is relatively easy.)
I can add a config option for "Gs" or "M/S2" relatively quickly.
If this is going to use the GPS signal also, it might not be very accurate due to the Qualcomm chip.
Here is the test of the HTC P3600 GPS (Qualcomm gpsONE chipset) compared to SiRFstar III GPS chipset based devices made by http://www.gpspassion.com/fr/articles.asp?id=175&page=6
I thought I'd drop a link to the Pocket Dyno thread: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=408474
Currently, I have no plans to use the GPS, as I have no idea about the interactions with the GPS chip, and as I don't have a device, I can't play around with the software easily.
One other thing:
That review is relatively old, and the GPS in the Diamond is a different chip, or at least a different revision of the chip.
I have a theoretical question:
If the g-sensor can record movement in all three dimentions, then is it theoretically possible for it to 100% mimic GPS tracking ?, I mean, if you tell the sensor where you are currently on a map of coordinates (using the GPS, for example), why couldn't it keep the track on the map when you move ?
Couldn't this give your pin-point location, as you move, down to the centimeter ?
Or am I missing something ? (probably am).
Noam23 said:
I have a theoretical question:
If the g-sensor can record movement in all three dimentions, then is it theoretically possible for it to 100% mimic GPS tracking ?, I mean, if you tell the sensor where you are currently on a map of coordinates (using the GPS, for example), why couldn't it keep the track on the map when you move ?
Couldn't this give your pin-point location down to the centimeter ?
Or am I missing something ? (probably am).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In theory, you are correct. However, the hardware used is not that accurate, and because of the way data is retrieved, there is not enough data for that kind of precision.
Also, a centimeter is bigger than a pin point!
l3v5y said:
Also, a centimeter is bigger than a pin point!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, down to the micrometer
I can already imagine TomTom in maximum resolution: "in 100,000,000 micrometers, turn left..."
More seriously, so you think the g-sensor isn't accurate enough to even measure short distances ?, it could be a great tool if it can replace a meter...
Noam23 said:
Ok, down to the micrometer
I can already imagine TomTom in maximum resolution: "in 100,000,000 micrometers, turn left..."
More seriously, so you think the g-sensor isn't accurate enough to even measure short distances ?, it could be a great tool if it can replace a meter...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, short distances may be alright...
I can try and write something to test that...
Hadn't tried it yet, but basically, is it accurate enough to be launched at home, walk a little, take a bus, come back, and see you've come back on the log ?
edit : crossed two last posts
l3v5y said:
Well, short distances may be alright...
I can try and write something to test that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be awesome if it works !
l3v5y said:
Black Box G Logger can be shortened to BBGL, and if it's just "Black Box" people may assume it logs over things. Although, I could add light sensing relatively easily!
I could do a GUI for it, and I'm thinking that would make the settings more easy to integrate.
I could deduce the angle of the device, but I'll need to work through some logic to get 45 degrees sorted. (Flat on any face is relatively easy.)
I can add a config option for "Gs" or "M/S2" relatively quickly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sweet a GUI would be very cool. I am happy with the long name too - just did not want you to feel obligated somehow
Let us know when u have thrown one of the Icons into it.
PS I agree - Keep the GPS out of this app. Added Complexity and there are a plethora of GPS apps. KISS principle.
Ciao
. . . .
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
. . . . (current version 1.0 FINAL)
More control. More battery. More comfort.
Lumos is fully customizable automatic backlight level changer developed as a complete replacement for stock HTC auto-backlight service. A wide range of HTC branded devices is supported starting from HTC Diamond/Touch Pro up to the current WM flagship HD2.
Lumos focuses on minimal CPU usage, maximum battery saving, low memory footprint while maintaining maximum backlight change smoothness and responsiveness. Lumos combines the best from all available auto-backlight solutions and adds many extras for your tweaking needs
Features:
- simple and clean installation and uninstalation
- extremely low CPU usage when working, 0.05-0.3% on polling
- NO battery and CPU overhead (drainage) unless you actively use your device's display
- low memory profile considering all the options
- simple and reliable configuration GUI with easy step-by-step calibration process
- many options that let you change every aspect of how your backlight works
- program exceptions to set different backlight for any application
- relative excaptions allow you to amplify/attenuate the automatic backlight for specific applications
- ability to force display ALWAYS ON for certain application
- integrated tool to detect all active application names, leave it running in the background and it will log all application names you use
- configuration failsafe. No matter what you do, Lumos won't crash, just tell you what is wrong and use defaults.
- supports vast majority of HTC branded devices since HTC Diamond
- many supported languages
Just install the CAB, start LumosWizard from programs or soft reset and you're all set!
- Lumos always installs to the device (no matter what you chose)
- Installer will create auto-start entry (Lumos will start after a soft-reset)
- Installer will create a shortcut to LumosWizard in your programs
- should any problem arise after first installation, try to soft-reset your device before consulting our FAQ below
Program installs to \Program Files\Lumos\
Lumos.exe = starts/stops auto backlight service, accepts commandline switches
LumosWizard.exe = graphical tool to configure all aspects of Lumos
settings.txt = configuration file is not included in the package, it will be automatically generated by LumosWizard after successful calibration, you can edit it manually in your PC or by using LumosWizard, text edits in device are probably no longer possible because of unicode encoding.
LumosStarter.exe = (re)starts Lumos service without any visual feedback (used for startup after soft-reset and for special issues)
TROUBLESHOOTING:
You can take these simple steps to troubleshoot any problem, perform both steps and if your device reacts differently than described try fixes marked ">" one by one starting from the top. Please restart your device before you start, your problem might fix itself.
1) Run LumosWizard, start Calibration and proceed to second step (max sensor), Lumos should report positive values as you move the device near to light source.
> move the damn finger! xD
> another application exclusively locked the sensor, try to disable other apps using light sensor
> sensor drivers or sensor SDK is missing, try if different application like G-Light works, report the problem if it does, update your ROM if it doesn't
> your sensor may be defective, try some 100% compatible ROM like Energy just in case and consider RMA if unsuccessful
2) Run LumosWizard, start Calibration and proceed to third step (minimum and maximum backlight setting). The backlight should actually change as a preview when you move the slider.
> check if windows built-in auto backlight is disabled in power settings
> another application may be forcing the backlight level, try to soft reset and disable other apps that can change backlight level or manage backlight in user profiles
> original HTC backlight utility DLLs may be missing in certain early WM6.5 ROMs, try to install BacklightHotfix.CAB attached to this post and reboot. If it just won't work, try another program like G-light, if you're still out of luck, try to contact your ROM chef about this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can send a symbolic DONATION if you with to reward me for my efforts.
Show that you care
There have been over 22500 downloads for RC2 version - just from XDA.
Donations will be used solely to buy muffins and pizza for late-night coding sessions... mmm
READ THE FAQ IN POST #2 BEFORE ASKING QUESTIONS
New files in additional languages pack:
none
DOWNLOAD:
FAQ:
What exactly is the calibration for, backlight is still the same after calibration?
The calibration ensures Lumos can detect the detection range of your light sensor properly and lets you set minimum and maximum possible backlight easily.
It has 4 steps:
1) Minimum value the sensor can read (probably 0 on all devices)
2) Maximum value the sensor can read (expect this to be something around 1400), you need to use a light bulb tor this step.
3) Minimum brightness you want. Lumos will calculate everything with minimum value reported by your device, but it will not let the backlight go below this value. (like if you want to have backlight 2 in shade because 1 is too dark for you)
4) Maximum brightness you want. Lumos will calculate everything with maximum value reported by your device, but it will not let the backlight go above this value. (You may notice that backlight level 7 and 10 is a little difference and can be both read in direct light, however if you limit the maximum to only 7 here, you will save a lot of battery)
5) After you are done with the calibration, you can review your setting on the settings tab and click 'Apply+Save' to exit LumosWizard and actually start Lumos service. There is no auto-backlight while the configuration Wizard is open, it defaults at level 6!
How program exceptions work?
- Switch to the Windows tab and start for example TomTom, leave TT and click it's name in the window list, then specify the backlight you want for this app and tap Add.
- If you disable "Exc. for active window only" on settings tab, you need to specify exact window name and exception will be triggered even for inactive application (minimized for example).
- If you activate "Exc. for active window only" on settings tab, you only need to specify part of the window name in exception settings (useful in case part of the window name changes). If the window name is "AdobeReader - document.pdf", only add exception "AdobeReader -". Be aware enabling this option increases CPU requirements of Lumos by about 20% (means roughly 0.06% total for slow diamonds).
Note that you will probably need to enable "Exc. for active window only" on settings tab for exceptions to work on WM6.5.
How to set a program exception step by step?
1. run lumos wizard
2. switch to the tab "windows" (the last one) and let the wizard run in background
3. run your program(s) you want to add
4. close the program(s)
5. switch back to lumos wizard -- voila, all the window names you visited are there!
6. tap the program name you want in the window list, it will switch you to the "exceptions" tab and fill the form for you
7. set the backlight level you want (1-10) and tap add to exceptions
What is a Relative Exception?
- relative exception does not force one specific level but rather amplifies and attenuates normal auto-backlight behaviour for the application in question.
Consider this scenario:
Code:
- my allowed backlight ranges in levels 2-7
- I want to use a navigation app in car and it is kind of difficult to see on sunlight, shades in car would read for level 3 or 4 and that is not bright enough
- I can either create an exception and force backlight all the way to 7, but that might not be optimal on battery
- therefore I create a Relative Exception of +2
- for the navigation application if the backlight would normally be set to 3 by Lumos, it will be amplified by two to 5. What would normally be level 6 will get amplified to 7, since that is my maximum level.
- You can also use negative values in Relative Exception to decrease the backlight for certain app by certain amount to save battery for example.
How backlight modes work?
- Backlight modes are individual equations used to determine proper backlight level from current sensor value.
- Linear - this mode is equally sensitive in dark and light environment.
- Root - this mode is more sensitive in dark environment and is best suitable for human eye and therefore default.
- Quadratic - this mode is more sensitive in light environment.
- Custom - this mode features customizable graph, you can draw a graph yourself with stylus or click on the blue area under each level number to input border sensor value manually.
Levels outside your min-max boundaries are hidden.
- Note that using custom mode do not affect CPU requirements in any way.
Commandline switches?
- There are 4 switches that can be used
"+" will increase backlight by one
"-" will decrease backlight by one
"s" will run normal Lumos operation without restart prompt after +/- tasks are completed
"q" will quit Lumos after +/- tasks are completed
Example to increase backlight by 3 and disable automatic:
Code:
"...iles/Lumos.exe" +++q
My *insert a game using G-sensor* is lagging strangely, can I fix it?
- guys from HTC thought it would be a cool idea to tie all sensors together in a framework, unfortunatelly it appears that when one program locks a sensor for read, other sensors may get locked as well on some devices. There is only one solution that will de-lag such game - not to use the sensor while it runs.
- Create a non-relative exception for the game in question and your lag should go away.
Backlight is not changing at all, it's the same all the time?
1) go to Start - Settings - System tab - Power - Backlight tab and DISABLE the 'Auto adjust backlight' feature.
2) close the configuration Wizard with "Save+Apply" button, auto-backlight service is disabled when you are configuring Lumos or when there is no configuration specified.
Program won't start at all?
You NEED .NET 3.5 Compact Framework Redistributable. It is faster and more stable and offers more stuff for developers than the 2.0 you probably have. It is rumored it may even make your device work faster (or at least .NET based apps).
Download it HERE (only about 3MB on device, don't be scared by the installer size as it contains support for more processors)
LUMOS CHANGES TRACKER:
(changes prior to RC1 version dropped)
! non linear backlight in the GLight style for people all over the net who are demanding this
! exceptions now need only part of the window name in "detect only active windows" mode
! recalibrated sensor readings for more sensitivity
! fixed bug in custom graph mode
! faster loading
! dropped DIM_TO_MINIMUM_PLUS_ONE_BELOW option
(below only in RC2 version)
! fixed custom mode alignment
(below in 1.0 Final)
! add support for relative level in exceptions
! add support to keep alive only as exception
! add command line support (change level & quit, +, -)
(below ideas for future development)
- add support for alternative backlight handling (WM default without HTC drivers)
WIZARD CHANGES TRACKER:
(changes prior to RC1 version dropped)
! support for setting linear, quadratic and root/logaritmic backlight
! support for custom backlight mode with interactive graph
! support for changing keyboard backlight delay on RAPH
! improved max/min detection in wizard
! forcing consistency between settings and graph plotting
! switching language in flight
! faster loading times
! support for language packs
! smaller text to allow better translations
! bigger tabs for better finger friendliness
! dropped DIM_TO_MINIMUM_PLUS_ONE_BELOW option
! fixed minor flaws from beta2 connected with translations
! improved settings tab scrolling redraw speed
! settings tab will back off from deploying soft keyboard
! added new languages: Bulgarian, Czech, Francais, Japanese, Nederlands
(below only in RC2 version)
! fixed Window detector taking you to the Mode tab instead of Exceptions
! fixed settings tab layout width
! added another failsafe mechanism against saving invalid min/max backlight and polling interval
! added warning message for options with potentially negative effect on battery
! added new languages - currently Bulgarian, Czech, French, German, Greek, Japanese, Dutch, Polish, Russian, Sim./Trad. Chinese
(below in 1.0 Final)
! set "BL=1 below" option to be relative to the sensor minimum
! set calibration to disregard sensor minimum 0 until the driver is initialized
! add support to release sensors on active exception
! add wizard warning if built-in auto backlight currently overrides Lumos control
! ability to recognize missing sensor drivers and the need for Backlight Hotfix package
! add support for relative level in exceptions
! add support to keep alive only as exception
(below ideas for future development)
- support for forced "on wakeup" backlight level
- = bug / missing part
? = possible bug/not able to reproduce/not verified/idea
* = in development
+ = fixed bug / completed part
! = fix/feature included in released version
NOTES:
Please disregard the hacks from previous versions and always set your sensor minimum and maximum to real values (0-xxxx)! Some sensors might have different minimum than 0 - this is a hardware defect and you need to use the defected value for Lumos to work correctly.
To admit it, I haven't installed it yet, but I'm tempted. Just one question which might also be of interest for others:
What's the advantage of your app compared with G-Light?
And not to forget:
Thank you for your work! I still find it amazing that many xda-devs are building programs for free just for a "thank you" by the community.
Well I tried G-Light and LevelSight but will only compare it to G-Light as LevelSight does things a bit differently IMO. I set G light to 3s polling interval to make the comparsion accurate. I don't like to put dirt on someone elses app, G-Light is a fine piece of software and I encourage the developer to implement some of my ideas to match mine and make it even better
- G-Light can behave competely unpredictably, it pumps up the backlight when you're in shade (this is because of the luminosity spikes)
- Lumos eliminates any spikes by the 4-read interpolation keeping your backlight more comfortable and smooth
- Lumos uses a tolerance which further prevents the backlight to unexpectedly changing (and causing a CPU spike)
-G-light rarely reaches below 1% of CPU usage (1-7%usage is common) which can drain your battery as a side effect
- Lumos rarely crosses above 0.5% CPU usage on default settings (0.05-3% usage is common) (NOTE: this will even improve in future versions)
- in G-Light You cannot change how fast the luminance values are read from sensors, they are read on change = further battery drain. You can only change how often to set backlight
- In Lumos you can set sensor read interval and backlight change in its multiplies to save CPU and power while retaining smoothness.
- Memory usage: GLightRunner 595.43KB , Lumos 311.53KB (but this will get a bit more later)
- No noticable memory leak in either applicaiton
- G-Light has a frontend app to set up
- Lumos has none yet but you can change the configuration file
- Neither Lumos nor GLightRunner can be completely shut down without using task manager (Lumos will once it has frontend GUI).
- G-Light can exclude applications
- Lumos can't yet
-G-Light settings is pretty much still limited compared to Lumos
To sum up it's definitely worth trying
nik3r said:
To sum up it's definitely worth trying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for your long and precise answer, You definitely convinced me!
I'll try it right away!
Lumos v02
Lumos Version 02 has been released, all the changes are logged as (!) in the bug tracker above.
Default settings response time is shorten to 2s, while CPU usage is pretty much the same as v01 with 3s refresh.
Memory usage: 339.53KB
CPU usage: 0.05-0.25% on scan, 3.15% on backlight change
Power consumption is 2mA better than v01
If you want to achieve more sensitivity of backlight transition without CPU overhead, set tolerance to 0 (CPU usage bug is fixed now).
Configuration file is now idiot-proof, program will tell you what is wrong on syntax/logical error
EDIT: 02b contains one more bugfix, the auto backlight range cap finally works 100%
Enjoy
nik3r
Quick question; does you app let the backlight go to 0% in full darkness, like LevelSight?
Yes it in fact goes to 1 (backlight disable) as lowest on default. You may want to increase it to 2 in the config file if it's too dark for you.
The point of this app is YOU set how it should behave, there are virtually no limitations unless you enter a complete nonsense to the config. And even then the program should just notify you about the incorrect settings and not crash, so don't worry and edit!
The program needs to be restarted in order to apply new settings. Either kill it via process/task manager or soft reset if you don't have one. Note that this acts like a program, it won't start again automatically if you kill it or soft reset. And also it won't store anything in your registry or enywhere else on the device, so it's perfectly safe to "just try". I will make a manager app later that will let you setup and control this underlying process.
But FIRST we need to make sure the service is bug free and does everything we need before I even start building the front-end app
Also you may share your custom settings you find best with me and if it's performing well I can select that one as default for future.
Thank you Niker! V2 is working great for me. Only one thing:
The lightlevel changes linear as you've explained and that's basically working fine (and much more smoothly than G-Light for example). But it tends to get to dark. I've now changed the minimum setting to "3" to get the average backlight-level I prefer. BUT: I like to read late at night in bed and it would than be nice to have the backlight at level "1". So would it be possible to exclude light level 1 & 2 from the linear alignment and to only use those levels if it's "really dark"?
PS
Just to give you a bit more information about my personal preferences and what I want to achieve:
I actually like the default HTC auto-backlight. It more tends to bright than to dark backlight and it's making the level changes very smoothly so you almost don't notice them.
The only thing i don't like about it is that the minimum level is hardcoded to level 3 which is too bright for me when I read in bed with no additional light in the room.
Of course those are my personal preferences and that of course doesn't necessarily mean that your app is meant to handle that way!
Well I have an idea, I wonder if .NET CF 3.5 supports external scripting as the PC version does. Basically that might allow you to replace the backlight algoritm without compiling the program yourself. You could quite easily make exceptions binded to really low lumen values or time of day with just 2-3 lines of code.
EDIT: I fear this is not possible, System.CodeDom.Compiler is awfully stripped down, I would have to make up my own scripting language for this to work and that would be very difficult.
But I think I can add this as a setting to the configuration file.
DIM_TO_MINIMUM_BELOW = 0
- disabled (default)
DIM_TO_MINIMUM_BELOW = 25
- below 25/750 lumens
very simple and I think this would do about what you want
Expect this in the new version.
nik3r said:
I'll report back whether this is possible in mobile version...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you mate, I really appreciate it!
Thanks for your suggestions.
Lumos v02c is out, it contains your 2 desired options (for backlight 1 and 2 separately). You will however be disappointed by the sensitivity of raphael sensor, it reports 0 like all the time.
This change theoretically lets you set lumen values for the 2 lowest values manually and once the sensor reads larger values, the MIN/MAX_BACKLIGHT kicks in. It's possible to have 4-8 auto and dim to 1 or 2 on low light, so you can kinda simulate the behaviour of LevelSight if you want to.
Oh and as the cherry on top I disabled tolerance by default, for more smoothness, the impact on CPU and battery should be minimal < 0.05%
The next version should include a tool to easily restart Lumos to apply settings, it will be needed for the graphical user interface later.
Enjoy
Major version released:
Lumos v03
- all bugs connected with dynamic backlight should be fixed now
- changing settings.txt is even safer (program should never crash, just tell you where is problem and use defaults)
- includes LumosKiller.exe that can start/restart/shutdown Lumos easily
In case no bugs are found until friday, I will start building GUI.
Could you integrate special brightness normally only used when starting the camera? You'd probably need to debug the camera application to find out about the special ICOTLs for that. I did that with my Magician back in the days.
Program-specific exceptions will be added after the GUI is done, I still need to figure out how to list running windows by name. If you have any experience with this using C# or C++ I'd be happy if you PM me, but I guess uncle google knows how to do this, just refuses to share it with me right now
Uz to testujem, zatial to vali krasne a v pohode ;-)
I just wrote that I'm currently testing it, no problems so far.
Thank you and please keep up the good work ;-)
Great application Nik3r!!
i like so much, because don´t touch my registry, It´s light,and also have minimal resources consumption
But, i need your help with the configuration file,
i have htc diamond, and the battery of this device drain fast
how can set the settings to obtain best battery duration?
Thanks a lot!!
You can increase the polling interval, enable some tolerance and lower the maximum brightness.
Try to make these changes:
MIN_BACKLIGHT = 1
MAX_BACKLIGHT = 6
POLLING_INTERVAL = 1500
EXTRA_POLLS_BEFORE_SET = 1
BACKLIGHT_TOLERANCE = 1
set minimum backlight to whatever is reasonably visible in shade
.. this will set your polling interval to 1,5s and make your brightness change every 3s instead of 2. The tolerance prevents brightness changess less than 2 units. It's the brightness change that eats most CPU (up to 3% spike) and thus battery and the tolerance makes sure it's not changing until a larger change is required.
And make sure you killed the old v01/02x version or soft reset before using 03 because older versions can't be killed by LumosKiller and two of them running may ruin your battery.
... hmm by the way I wonder why I didn't call it "Nox" instead of LumosKiller (any similarity with HP books is completely unintentional )
Good luck
Thanks for your quick and detailed reply!! i did those changes you suggest,
I´m really fan of your app!!
Version 2.5 now available!
There are two cabs one for WM Pro, another for WM Standard.
Make sure you install the correct one for your device.
*Note: This application utilizes data connection. Unlimited data plan is recommended.
*Note: This application relies on third party webservices that are subject to change without notice.
*Note: Radar and Satellite data is not available in all regions.
Features:
- Gets weather radar for current GPS location or using cell towers
(to get location using cell towers uncheck "Use GPS" in Settings)
- Ability to manually enter location (see post #327)
- Click anywhere on the map to move to that location
- Different zoom levels
- Animated radar loop
- Multiple resolutions (VGA,QVGA,WVGA,WQVGA) Portrait/Landscape/Square
- Integrates with Showaco TitaniumWeather 4.2 PlugIn
System Requirements:
- WinMo 6 or higher
- .Net CF 3.5
Version History:
2.5
- Option to show/hide GPS details on radar/satellite location update.
- Shows frame postion when in a loop (as -+----, --+---, etc.).
- Other minor improvements and code clean up.2.4
- Autoupdate radar based on set interval (5 - 60 min, Settings -> Misc -> Auto update interval) (see post #327).
. . Tap Update -> Auto Update, then
. . Update -> Radar - will refresh radar image for current location every n minutes.
. . . - or -
. . Update -> Location + Radar - will acquire new position and get radar image for it every n minutes.
- Ability to store/open custom urls. (opens in your default browser) (see post #344)
. . You can pass application parameters into the urls using custom tags (see Tips & Tricks below)
- Tap and move the map feature.
- Thanks to siddsm we now have Australia radar available in the app!2.3.1
- Satellite loop is now available for Europe, Africa (15 minute increments) and Asia (30 minute increments).
- Faster update speed.
- Option to show radar/satellite legend.
- Other minor improvements.2.2.05
- Speed and stability improvements.
- Other minor fixes. 2.2.04
- Added option to cancel radar update.
- Other minor fixes. 2.2.03
- Some minor fixes. 2.2.02
- Added a version for WM Standard (non touchscreen).
- Other minor enhancements. 2.2.01
- Fixed a bug where culture specific decimal formatting prevented GPS fix in Raw interface mode.
- Fixed a bug where in some cases radar image was 1 hour older than what the app showed.
- Webservice enhancements.2.1.01
- Fixed a bug where culture specific decimal formatting did not allow correct Radar/Satellite image to be downloaded.2.1
- Fixed reg file to import the GPS Radar to the Titanium Weather (thanks MysticGenius)
- Minor fixes2.0
- New source of Map/Radar/Satellite data
- Support for more locations - USA, Europe, Middle East, Africa, Asia, Brazil, Atlantic Ocean, Indian Ocean
(126W,50N - 66W,24N; 57.4922W,57.4922N - 57.4922E,57.4922S; 57.4923E,59.7901N - 116.7913E,59.7901S)
See it in action:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJpS87Dxhno
Download:
Go to http://www.gps-weather-radar.com to download latest version.
Instructions:
Just download the cab and run it on the device. Go under programs and click the GPSWeatherRadar icon to run the app.
Tips & Tricks:
- Sometimes radar/satellite image may not be displayed due to ... lack of rain in your area lucky you!
Try zooming out to a wider area, it most likely rains somewhere else
- To integrate with Showaco TitaniumWeather 4.2 PlugIn import "GPS WR Tit Wthr Add On.reg" file located in Program Files\GPSWeatherRadar after installation.
Or use this cab http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=212657&d=1249440283 provided by climber1872000
- To back up settings make a copy of files lctn.xml and gwr.config located in Program Files\GPSWeatherRadar.
Custom URL tags:
#culture# - Current UI Culture (ex. "en-EN","ru-RU", etc.)
#region# - Region (ex. "NAM", "EUR"
#state# - State or province
#city# - City
#zip# - Postal code
#country# - Country
#animate# - Animate flag (1 or 0)
#lat# - Current Latitude as ##.############0
#lon# - Current Longitude as ###.############0
#geowidth# - Geowidth or Zoom level
#height# - Image height
#width# - Image width
#framecount# - Number of frames in a loop
#interval# - Loop interval
Screenshots:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Enjoy!
This looks very promising. Thanks for sharing. I'll try it and report back.
International?
Cool app..
Been looking for something like this...
Only thing is, I don't think it supports radar images outside the USA, or does it?
I live in the UK, any chance of implementing UK radar images?
Can't get it to work
On My Fuze. Even with the GPS running (GPS Test shows active) the program just keeps searching for the GPS signal and never seems to connect or find the satellites when I hit update location & radar.
harvblain said:
On My Fuze. Even with the GPS running (GPS Test shows active) the program just keeps searching for the GPS signal and never seems to connect or fine the satellites when I hit update location & radar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same deal here. Raphael 800 (TouchPro), CDMA (Sprint), NFSFAN 110 rom. GPS seems to search forever with no result. PSBTW, yes I did verify the com port setting/baud rate.
Other than that, its an awesome idea. Would definitely fill a void in my arsenal. There are plenty of times in my travels I have no idea where I am, but have a need for knowing where the rain is in relation to me.
If there is anything I can do to assist with this application's development, let me know.
harvblain said:
On My Fuze. Even with the GPS running (GPS Test shows active) the program just keeps searching for the GPS signal and never seems to connect or fine the satellites when I hit update location & radar.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bump this. The first time I started the program it found 3 sats, but cant find any now. GPS test showing 6 sats. Any ideas? I like the concept of the program.
Great App, thanks! I have not been able to connect to satellites either but I am not convinced its the app yet. Also I put in my city, state, and zip but it seems depended on GPS, it would be cool to have the option.
BiggJurk said:
Great App, thanks! I have not been able to connect to satellites either but I am not convinced its the app yet. Also I put in my city, state, and zip but it seems depended on GPS, it would be cool to have the option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that there should be an option to choose whether to use GPS for location or not. Not having such a toggle really makes most of the Settings useless.
I've also been unable to get the GPS portion working. GPS Test gets a fix in seconds, but it took this app a few minutes just to show anything, but I still couldn't get a fix.
But I must say, I really like this idea. I actually combined this into my TitaniumWeather 4.2 cab so I can have it all installed at once , replacing TitaniumRadar which was too difficult to use IMO.
p50kombi said:
Cool app..
Been looking for something like this...
Only thing is, I don't think it supports radar images outside the USA, or does it?
I live in the UK, any chance of implementing UK radar images?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's possible if there is a similar webservice available that provides radar data for Europe. However satellite views should work as is.
karatche said:
Bump this. The first time I started the program it found 3 sats, but cant find any now. GPS test showing 6 sats. Any ideas? I like the concept of the program.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had similar problem running it under NETCF 3.5 Not sure if this is the case here. Will look into it further. Thanks for the feedback.
Captain_Throwback said:
I agree that there should be an option to choose whether to use GPS for location or not. Not having such a toggle really makes most of the Settings useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the feedback. That was the idea behind two options under Update menu. Looks like there is a bug.
avs777 said:
Thanks for the feedback. That was the idea behind two options under Update menu. Looks like there is a bug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, now that you say that, it is working correctly. I just didn't understand what the options meant, I guess. That, and the first time I used it, the radar map seemed to stay in Oregon . But it appears to be working correctly now. Now, if only GPS location would work . . . (I have .NET CF3.5 cooked into my ROM, incidentally).
EDIT: You know why I thought it wasn't working right? I don't think the map always re-centers when you update based on Radar only. Or maybe it depends on what Zoom level is selected. I can see my selected city on the map, but it's not centered, at least not when I update in the 100 mile view.
Captain_Throwback said:
EDIT: You know why I thought it wasn't working right? I don't think the map always re-centers when you update based on Radar only. Or maybe it depends on what Zoom level is selected. I can see my selected city on the map, but it's not centered, at least not when I update in the 100 mile view.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is probably due to last gps location saved in config file. If that's set to 0 it should recenter correctly. I'll have the option to edit it in the next version.
I too have been looking for something like this for quite sometime....... I travel alot on the motorcycle and it would be nice to know where I am in relationship to what isa coming my way.......or better yet going the other dirrection . If you need any help with this let me know......running AT&T Fuse and NATF 5.2 code..... Got as many as 4 satalites but really slow in finding them. Looking forward to next update!!!!
It appears V 1.1 is working very well. I really like the new options. It took about 15 sec. to find 6 satallites inside and about 45 seconds to lock and give me a location. All appears well initially. Great job.
I agree
Seems to be working very well so far. Similar results to Glide.
Cool program - works just fine on my Fuze. Thanks!
Great APP!
I created a cab that will merge this app with the Showaco's Titanium weather panel. I love this app! Great work!
Great program....can you make the radar loop to show where the storm is moving
Great Job!!!! Works great...
smittyj26 said:
Great program....can you make the radar loop to show where the storm is moving
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Animated GIFs are not currently supported in Compact Framework, however you should be able to see animated radar online but going to Menu -> View -> Online.
Nexus 5 Calibration:
Welcome to this thread: This thread is all about colors and displays. Nexus 5 only though!
- “Easy part: Apps, profiles” is for those that just want to mess around with some of the user created profiles and then move on. You can find the frequently asked questions about the profiles here!
- “More technical part” is for those who are more interested in this topic. Reading this part is recommend before calibrating.
- “Calibration” is for those who want to create a profile themselves (requires colorimeter or spectrometer).
- “Testing without a colorimeter” is for those without a colorimeter, but are still anxious to mess around ^^
- “Current state of development” shows the questions we don’t know the answer to yet.
Click “Click to show content” to extend the information!
Easy part: Apps, profiles
How do I get a color calibration app?
Make sure you have a compatible kernel first, like Franco's
Either use:
Nexus Display Control (Free)
FKU (paid)
Faux123 Kernel Enhancement (paid)
Kcontrol (paid)
How do I get profiles?
They are pre-installed! Just tap:
FKU: Color Utils - Load a color profile - Import preloaded profiles
NDC: Load a color profile - Import preloaded profiles
Faux: No need to do anything!
KControl: Not available
Newest collection of profiles.
Link 1 (Be sure to give a thanks to @vomer)
Link 2 (Be sure to give a thanks to @The Gingerbread Man)
If you download a new profile, you have to put them in a specific location:
FKU: /franco.kernel_updater/color_profiles
NDC: /nexus_display_control/color_profiles
Faux: /com.teamkang.fauxdisplay/profiles
After this, you can select and apply the profile.
How do I apply a profile?
Nexus Display Control App or Franco Kernel Updater App:
1) Tap 'Load a color profile' (Under color utils in FKU)
2) Select your profile
3) Hit Apply
4) Turn screen off and on to view result*
FauxClock:
1) Color/Gamma – Gamma Profiles
2) Select your profile
3) Hit Apply
4) Turn screen off and on to view result*
KControl: Not available
* On some kernels not required
Which profile is the best?
There is no best profile unless you buy a colorimeter. Here is why:
Every display is different, so the profiles that are perfect for one display will probably not be as perfect on your display.
Everything is subjective: You might like a more blueish screen, you might want accurate colors. All depends on you what is perfect
Even if you have a seemingly perfect profile, you can't test it without a colorimeter
How do I test my profile?
This is a tricky question. I have tried to develop ways to test a profile without the use of a colorimeter and I failed. It's impossible. You will never know the exact gamma, color temperature, etc etc.
There are things you can test however! Move on to part: Testing without a colorimeter!
But if you do have a colorimeter, check out: Calibration (requires colorimeter)
I love this profile. How do I set it as standard?
Check the checkbox 'Set colors on boot' in the app. (It’s a slider in FauxClock)
Problems:
Help I screwed up! How do I revert?!
Rebooting the device resets the display to stock settings (unless you ticked ‘Set on Boot’)
Or load up the stock profile (in attachments below).
(If the previous don’t work, your issue is more severe. Reflashing kernel, rom should work. If not, you have a hardware issue. Google for more info or RMA)
I don't see any difference! Why?
1) Do you have root and is root applied to the app?
2) Did you turn your screen off and on?
3) Note that the differences can be small.
4) Clearing app data and cache can do magic.
If none of these solutions work, verify that colors do change with the profile "Test your settings" (Download below)
If the profile and app work, you should get a very blue screen. (Revert by rebooting or loading other profile)
If the profile doesn't work, please search thread first, then ask questions. Your question has most likely been answered already!
The app doesn't work! :crying::crying:
1) Verify you are using a compatible kernel! Franco/Faux/Elementalx are all compatible. There are certainly more compatible kernels. Just check in that kernel thread if the kernel is compatible.
2) Verify that you have root and that the app gets root.
Please search the thread before posting! Usually your question has already been answered 5 times.
If I want to load a profile, the app force quits. Help!
The profile is invalid. Redownload it or use another profile. If this doesn’t work, try clearing data and cache of the app.
More technical part: Gamma, color temperature and colorimeters
Definitions you must at least heard of
Luminance
Luminance is a photometric unit to describe the amount of light coming from the screen. It is usually measured in cd/m2 (also called nits). It is comparable to brightness, but brightness is the perceived luminance (so subjective luminance you could say). Example: A display with a luminance around 100 nits is not so bright in the sun, but very bright in the dark. The luminance in both examples is the same, while the perceived brightness is not.
Gamma
The eye has a non-linear response to light. To correct this, gamma correction is applied.Without doing this, images look too light. Increasing gamma, means increasing the saturation. More info
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Color temperature
Color temperature is basically a measure of the color hue of white light that is measured in Kelvin (K). When you increase the color temperature, the hue becomes more blueish, decreasing it will result in a more yellowish/reddish screen.
RGB
When you are looking at a digital image, you are looking at a lot of pixels that make up this image. Each of those pixels consists out of a three sets of RGB numbers. These numbers can range from 0 (black) to 255 (white). For example: 255,255,255 will produce white, whilst 255,0,0 will produce red. RGB values themselves do not say much. You have to tell in what colorspace there are. These different colorspaces have different gamuts. Webcontent and our display use sRGB.
Here is a RGB color mixer to get a grasp on RGB.
More info on gamuts
Saturation
The vividness of a color. This can range from black/white to neon like colors.
Contrast ratio
The contrast ratio is the ratio between the brightest color (white) and the darkest color (black) your display can produce. Our Nexus 5 displays usually have around 920 (based on various measurements I have seen).
Useful links for more information:
Wikipedia:
Luminance
Gamma
Color Temperature
RGB
Gamut
Saturation and more
Contrast Ratio
Cambridge in color
GammaFAQ by Charles Poynton (expert) (Might be a bit outdated as 1998)
ColorFAQ by Charles Poynton (expert) (Might be a bit outdated as 1998)
Some color math by Bruce Lindbloom
Saturation vs. Vibrancy (vid)
How LCD works (hardware)(vid)
What do the parameters mean?
In total there are 24 parameters (of which 23) are displayed. Each parameter controls the luminance of a part of the RGB range. All other aspects (gamma, color temperature, saturation, contrast ratio) are derived from that. As stated, each parameter controls a portion of the range. Shown in this image are the ranges:
Note that the ranges do overlap in certain values. This means that one RGB value can be controlled by two parameters. (But never three!)
Let's take parameter 11 as an example: Parameter 11 has a range of 144 to 202. These RGB values can be altered by altered parameter 11. Most affected by parameter 11 is RGB(175). This RGB value will change the most when altering parameter 11. Respectively, RGB(144) and RGB(202) will change the least.
Negative and positive?
Also you might have noticed, there are two arrays for red, two for green and two for blue. Why? It’s for more precision:
These two arrays get combined to form one resulting figure. It’s not as simple as 10 and 20 become 15. Therefore I recommend keeping the difference between the parameters small in order to avoid confusion. Also the negative and positive are not equal. 10 & 20 do not produce the same outcome as 20 & 10.
Overall it’s best to keep the same when calibrating initially. But when you need a certain luminance you can’t achieve when they are the same, divert them. This method works the easiest and you don’t lose track of your changes so easily.
The White Point
The White Point is an odd setting. It does not control the color temperature in any way, form of shape. It’s also highly doubtable that the LG devs ment the white point in the curves adjustment tools of Photoshop. Currently the exact function of it is unknown, but what we know is the following:
Although the range can be 0 to 255, it actually ranges till 63. After that it loops. (0=64=128=192 and 63=127=191=255)
It’s main purpose is to allow more control over the RGB curve. Instead of controlling ranges of RGB curves, the White Point is an overall setting that adjusts every channel and every RGB value.
The recommend setting is between 29 and 33 and the middle value is 31
What would be the ideal settings?
When you capture an image with a camera, you want to see the same colors on your screen as the colors in real life right? Well, that is called an accurate screen.
Though, a lot of manufacturers don't provide accurate colors. Why not? Because the masses like punchy colors with a higher color temperature. The truth is that we have become accustomed to those colors. An accurate display seems a bit yellow nowadays. But there is a way out! Once you experience a true accurate profile, the other profiles seem really blue. Like all the things in life, we get accustomed to it.
An accurate profile would contain:
Banding: None
Color Temperature: 6500K
Gamma: 2.2 - 2.4
Properly saturated colors (Automatically achieved with calibrated gamma)
Contrast ratio: Higher is better, but above 930 is already pretty good for our LCD displays
How accurate is stock?
Actually, stock is quite accurate in comparison to other phones. There is certainly room for improvement, but they definitely tried to calibrate our screen correctly. The color temperature is around 6500K (+- 300K). Gamma is a bit too low (2.0), but in comparison to other phones it is quite good.
I like the punchy colors, can I keep them?
Of course! Your display, your rules. Having a higher color temperature isn't necessarily bad, though you must compensate a little bit. The changed settings would:
Color Temperature: 7500K
Gamma: 2.3 - 2.5
Note that for compensation for the higher color temperature, you increase the gamma a bit. This also works the same way around for lower color temperatures. Also, the same things like no banding still apply
Calibration (requires colorimeter)
Requirements for calibration
A colorimeter (Like Xrite i1 Display Pro (recommended by Display Expert Francois Simond))
HCFR
Faux Gamma App or any other app that can edit these parameters (Like Kcontrol or FKU)
Microsoft Excel or any other sheet program (Like Libre Office)
Nexus 5 with compatible kernel
Time
At which brightness should I use to test?
Unless you use autobrightness, I recommend using the brightness you use the most. But, you have to keep using that brightness for comparisons of profiles. So pick a brightness to your likings, but be consistent! (And no auto brightness!). I usually use 100%.
Let’s get started!
Step 1: Preparations
1) Set the screen timeout to 30 minutes or longer.
2) Keep your screen on for 30 minutes at the predetermined brightness. You can use you phone, just don't turn your screen off.
(Your display needs to stabilize by warming up. If you were to measure in the first minute you will see that the results are quite different than after 30 minutes. To ensure proper calibration, one must warm up the screen for at least 30 minutes)
3) Make sure you have all the requirements listed above. Also download “Shades of Grey” to your phone and “Display Calibration Nexus 5 by yorici.xlsx” to your pc.
4) Extract the images from the file explorer to a folder on your phone. There are multiple versions. I suggest reading further first, but if you can’t wait, extract “Shades of Grey (Recommended).zip”
5) Connect your colorimeter to your pc and open up HCFR.
6) In HCFR: Press 'new' - Select 'View images' - 'Next'
- Then under 'Select a sensor in this list': Your colorimeter (Can be any name). Do not use a meter correction file unless you know what you are doing. - 'Next'
- Display Type: 'LCD White LED IPS' - Reading Type: 'Display' - OK
7) In HCFR: Go to Free Measures and make sure you have set the mode in RGB
Test if it works by pressing F7. It should have measured once now and you get a table of data with one row. If you click on it, you will see more data in the left pane below.
8) If your screen hasn't warmed up for 30 minutes now, just play a game or do something else. It might be useful to get a charger as you will have your display constantly on for the rest of the steps.
Step 2: Set the goals
It is up to you what color temperature and gamma you want. I suggest you first read "More technical part: Gamma, color temperature and colorimeters" first before beginning with this. The accurate settings are there too. It's up to you how you want to calibrate though. These are my tips you should keep in mind:
Red is the limiting color in our display. Try to keep it maximised and play with blue and green
The blacks can be harder to calibrate. Try to aim for an accurate gamma though. Color temperature is less of importance because you won't see blue or red blacks as good as you would see blue whites or blue blacks.
Always turn screen off and on after editing parameters. No changes will occurs if you don't!
As you will have to turn off your screen a lot, it might be easier to temporarily disable your lockscreen. This can save some time.
Step 3: The first parameter
1) Open the Shades of Grey folder with a Gallery App (I prefer QuickPic)and just open the first image (begins with “a RGB(255,255,255)....”). These images are sorted in the right order, you will only need to swipe.
2) Do a 'Free Measure' by pressing F7. I do usually three times for more accuracy:
Those three results I combine in one value with less decimals (usually 1). You will always get three different results, so you can't use just one of them. You will need to average them out. This creates uncertainty and therefore you remove two decimals. (If you get three times the same result, please keep it to one decimal. It's very unlikely you will get three times the same results another time)
3) Note these values in max luminance in the spreadsheet
4) Measure the second image (black) and note these values in min luminance. When you edit them, you will see the other values change.
5) It will probably the case that the first two values aren't resulting in your desired goals. Now you must correct this by editing the parameters. Open up Faux Gamma App (or any other app that can edit the parameters like FKU or Kcontrol)
6) Let's say I want to achieve 6500K. For that to happen, every color channel needs to result in the same value. Lred=Lgreen=Lblue.
In my previous result: Blue and green were higher than red. Red was maxed out, so I need to decrease blue and green
In Faux Gamma App (and Kcontrol) the first 12 parameters are reversed: Increasing parameters will decrease colors
In FKU this annoyance is removed: If you increase any parameter, the corresponding color will always increase
To decrease blue and green for the first value, I need to increase the first parameter in Faux Gamma App and decrease in FKU. Pay attention to which parameter you are editing. The 13th to 23th parameters are normal.
How much you should adjust is not determined. The only thing you know is that when you have a difference of 5 in luminance (Desired vs. irl), the adjustment in the parameters should be less than when the difference is 50.
7) In general this applies: The more accurate each parameter was calibrated in relation to the next parameter, the better the gamma.
The more accurate each color channel (Red, green and blue) was calibrated in relation to another, the better the color temperature.
Step 4: The rest of the parameters
1) When you are done calibrating the first parameter, continue to the next parameter. I usually start by calibrating all red, then green and finally blue.
2) In the Gallery, swipe to "c - p(2) - RGB(254,254,254)". This means parameter 2 (the c is for the right order in gallery apps). Measure this three times and take average.
3) Swipe to "ca - RGB(255,255,255)". Measure it three times and take average. This is max luminance again.
4) (Optional for parameters 1 – 14) Swipe to "cb - RGB(0,0,0)". Measure it three times and take average. This is min luminance again.
5) In the spreadsheet: Fill in max and min luminance. Then compare the first average of p(2) with the suggested value of parameter 2 in the spreadsheet.
6) Adjust accordingly in Faux Gamma App, Kcontrol or FKU. Screen off/on! And repeat substeps 2 to 5 until desired value = p(2) value.
7 - 99) Repeat for every other parameter.
PRO TIP: Save your work every 6 parameters! Just save it as a profile. When you reboot, you might lose your progress as the default profile is stock.
Temporarily get rid of your lockscreen. Unless you use Faux Kernel, you will need to turn your screen off and on a lot. Removing the lockscreen will ease that a bit and save you time!.
NOTE: If you want to save some time, you can skip measuring blacks (cb - RGB(0)..) every time. Just measure it fifty times with F8 mode while moving the colorimeter over the screen. Take average of those and keep it at those. You should get “Shades of Grey (No blacks).zip” then. It is better to measure black for 15 to 23 though!
Step 5: Review the results
1) Get Voodoo Screen Test Patterns App (free)
2) Open the app and set the amount of measurement points in the settings. [More=better, but more difficult]
3) Set the equal amount of measurement points in HCFR: (I use at least 25, b/c 24 parameters)
HCFR – Measures – Parameters – Number of Grayscale levels
4) Press “GO” and it will show images on your PC. You have to press next on your phone to keep up with the images.
NOTES: It’s a bit wonky and you should take multiple attempts at this for more accuracy
If calibration is done correctly, the color temperature should be around 6500K (+- 75K). The average gamma should be very close to your setting. The gamma line itself can be a bit squigglier, but keep it around the gamma you have chosen earlier.
Step 6: Share and contribute!
Please share you final product of hard work!
1) Save your profile using the Nexus Display Control app (FKU has this functionality too).
2) With a file explorer navigate to nexus_display_control/color_profiles and locate your profile.
3) Gather results from HCFR (right-click - save): gamma and color temperature (with saturation, luminance, near white, near black you are even better ;P)
4) Claim your glory and post the profile, HCFR images and you goals (which gamma and color temperature were you going for?) in this thread as a reply!
If you are really satisfied with the result, please consider buying me a beer I have done a lot of research to get to these results and they have all been done in spare time.
Testing without a colorimeter
Most of the users don’t have a colorimeter and you might not either. What can you test?
Banding: Less accurate, but still possible, you can check banding! By using gradient you can review the smoothness of the gradient. I have included gradients that are capable of doing this! You are looking for sudden interuptions in the gradient. If it is good, the gradient will appear smooth without any distortions.
Color Temperature: Though, incredible inaccurate and very biased, you can check color temperature subjectively. I do not recommend relying on it, but you can see the differences in hue and adjust the parameters. Though there is no way to measure it. I have included gray images that you can use!
You just swipe through the pictures and you will notice the different hues. Though it subjective to judge which one is incorrect…
Gamma: Short answer: No, not really.
Long answer (involves Display Tester App):
Although Display Tester App (and more apps alike) claim to test gamma, their results are biased . The principle the Display Tester App relies on is the following:
You create a background with a grid. The grid is composed of RGB (255,255,255) and RGB (0,0,0). This is the same as 0% and 100% gray. Because the eye can’t see individual pixels, the grid blends to a half tone: 50% gray. If you place a 50% gray block on the background, they should match. Up till this part, everything is correct.
There is one problem: The Display Tester App only tests 50% gray. 50% gray results in RGB (186,186,186). So basically, you are only testing only one RGB value out of 256.
To make this even more fun: The Display Tester App also messed up the background… While it should be a perfect grid of 0 and 255, it actually goes from 0 to 8 and 247 to 255. No, this is not better, it only is more biased. You can’t rely on RGB (1 to 254) as they are not calibrated yet.
If you have used the app, you may have noticed that changing the viewing angle, changes the outcome. The outcome is also dependent on ambient lighting, if the screen has been warmed up for 30 minutes, your eyes, brightness.
With so many variables you can’t believe this app will produce any reliable result… Even if it did, it would only count for RGB (186).
My advice: Do not rely on the Display Tester App or any other app that claims to be able to measure your gamma!
Notes:
- 50% gray = 0.5^(1/2.2) * 255 = 186 (It’s not 127/128 due to gamma correction)
- You can see for yourself that the app is biased: Change parameter 9 (any color) to 255. Open the app: no real difference right? The 2.2 box will remain the same and the background too, while if you look at photographs there is noticeable something wrong! This can’t be right, can it?
Saturation: Forget it.
Contrast: Very complicated process with another camera perhaps. Google is your friend. (It will be quite inaccurate: the camera alters the picture too (white balance))
Color checker cards
You could buy color checker cards and use those to calibrate. It's a bit cheaper.
Disadvantages:
Less accurate than a colorimeter due to inaccuracy of the eye and ambient lighting
Only one calibration possible: 6500K, gamma 2.2
If you are going to spend more than 40 on it, I suggest you buy a cheap colorimeter instead.
Should I use the RGB sliders?
Short answer: No, only for very specific purposes.
Long answer:
The RGB sliders shouldn’t be used if you want to improve your screen. If you want to make your screen all red, the sliders are perfect.
What the sliders to is limit the RGB range. If you set the red slider at 240, RGB(255) will become what normally was RGB(240). Every RGB value gets relocated from there between RGB(0) and RGB(240). You are basically limiting the amount of colors you can display. Not that awesome right? (Unless you want to do this)
Current state of development
Not everything has been uncovered yet:
Can be predicted how much one should increase a parameter to get a certain luminance?
My idea: Let’s assume that an increase of parameter Y with amount X always increases Luminance(Y) with the same amount. Let’s call the screen’s calibration when every parameter is set at 0, the base calibration. That base calibration is different for each display and define the characteristics. When measured correctly, one could calculate how much each parameter should be increased to get the desired luminance.
Explanation needed for the strange behavior of the first 8 parameters when all set to 0.
What is the mathematical connection of the white point in relation to the parameters?
The so called ‘white point’ is the only parameter that can adjust the entire RGB range. What is the mathematical connection between each individual parameter and the white point?
Changelog and credits:
Changelog:
26-5-14: Initial post placed
27-5-14: Fixed link, added color checker cards (Thx Tzfardaya), added white point measurements in post #2
1-6-14: Fixed type, thx @nihil0
16-6-14: Added profile: Yorici_Calibrated_Punch (see second post)
20-6-14: Added more info in FAQ under "How to get profiles?"
Immense thanks to:
@supercurio, @myfluxi, @faux123, @franciscofranco, @mag01, @rajendra82, @gpvecchi, @Tzfardaya, @granets, @tkoreaper, @ChazzMatt, @neriamarillo, @vomer, @The Gingerbread Man and everyone that helped with this!
If you still have any questions that weren’t explained (clearly enough), feel free to ask in this thread. I will keep adding questions which I think are useful!
NEW! Gamma Corrected Brightness (GCB)
Let's do a little experiment shall we? Set your screen's brightness at 0%, 50% and 100% consecutively. Notice something odd? That's right! The 50% doesn't seem like 50%. Why you ask? Well you are not a robot, but a fabulous human that perceives brightness different (i.e:non linear). Well how do you fix this?
We are introducing Gamma Corrected Brightness! This will solve that nasty issue we talked about. Best thing yet, this baby comes with multiple modes and works for every brightness level! And this will save you battery too! With GCB you will have a greater tendency to set a lower brightness than you normally would and that saves battery life!
Four modes are:
- Stock
- Gamma 2.0 (Stubborn) – A little bit more stubborn than the natural one for those who need that
- Gamma 2.2 (Natural)– The natural one that seems normal like it should be!
- Gamma 3.0 (Nightmode) – This one is for night times ^^
How to use:
1) Download and install Furnace Kernel
2) Open terminal
3) Enter for:
Stock: echo “0” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
Stubborn: echo “1” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
Natural: echo “2” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
Nighttime: echo “3” > /sys/module/lm3630_bl/parameters/gamma_correction
4) Done!
If you love Gamma Corrected Brightness, please consider to buy @savoca and @yorici a drink!
_________________________________________________________________________________________
Profile:
Yorici_Calibrated_Punch:
Goal: Maximum brightness possible with 2.35 gamma
Result:
Average gamma: 2.36
Contrast ratio: 1:1017
Color temperature: Around 8800K
Higher saturation due to higher gamma
Maximum brightness of 500 nits vs 440 nits on stock
So brighter, more saturated and higher color temperature: what is usually called punchy!
Advanced graphs:
The color temperature might appear to be really bad, but there is a reason for this:
On full black I get these luminances: R:0,4 G:0,4 B:1,2. The color temperature of this is > 12.000K. To preserve maximum brightness I had to keep these values. This difference of 0,8 slims down when luminance gets higher. And you can see that from 25% gray and on the color temperature remains more stable.
You will also notice that gamma gets a bit more wobbly at the end. That is because the measured values change more dramatically than at the beginning of the curve. I might try to decrease the wobblyness more in the future.
See attachments for profile!
Yorici_Calibrated_Accurate
Still in the works.. (Harder to make)
_____________________________
White point:
I have taken 16 measurements of the entire RGB curve and made gifs out of them:
Luminance:
RGB levels:
Color Temperature:
The slight bumps some times are due to mistakes, vibrations (got a text), etc. Ignore them.
What can we learn from this about the white point?
The white point seems to have the most effect on red (as seen in Luminance)
Extremer white point (towards 0 and 63) tend to increase the differences between the colors
That diversion gets bigger 50% - 100% gray with white point 31 - 63
That diversion gets bigger 0% - 50% gray with white point 0 - 31
White points 0 to 10 and 53 to 63 are more unstable and lead to unpredictable results.
A white point around 31 seems the best
Anything else?
Nice thread ...
great post buddy :good:
everyone: be sure to tag me if you make new profiles and want them added to my server
There is a way to do a very basic calibration without a colourimeter... but it requires a set of digital colour cards...
Basically a sheet printed with specific squares of colour you take a picture of said card, and then compare the colour displayed on screen with the colour of the card.... With a proper calibration, the two will match. (after correcting white balance)
Tzfardaya said:
There is a way to do a very basic calibration without a colourimeter... but it requires a set of digital colour cards...
Basically a sheet printed with specific squares of colour you take a picture of said card, and then compare the colour displayed on screen with the colour of the card.... With a proper calibration, the two will match. (after correcting white balance)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But again dependent on your eyes, ambient lighting, etc. ;/
Not ideal, but I can't disagree that it is indeed a method.
yorici said:
But again dependent on your eyes, ambient lighting, etc. ;/
Not ideal, but I can't disagree that it is indeed a method.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
More reliant on your eyes than ambient lighting, since you should look at the picture under the same light. but yeah, it's a very rough way... Slow, tedious, and usually used more to check the calibration and white balance/colour correct photographs than actually calibrating the screen....
Tzfardaya said:
More reliant on your eyes than ambient lighting, since you should look at the picture under the same light. but yeah, it's a very rough way... Slow, tedious, and usually used more to check the calibration and white balance/colour correct photographs than actually calibrating the screen....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I assume you would buy a white tile that is 6500K? I could mention it in my thread though
yorici said:
I assume you would buy a white tile that is 6500K? I could mention it in my thread though
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, the white card is based on srgb, and is what a "properly calibrated and full srgb gamut" display should show at 255/255/255, same with the black card (0/0/0).
I also have an 18% grey card...
Makes white balancing a photograph extremely simple....
But can also be used (with great difficulty) to help calibrate a display (or check the displays calibration)
My man, I am subscribed! I'll update the required posts and threads by me when I'm feeling fresher (sober) in the AM
Edit
Nice to see this got stickied nice one!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
nice thread, but the link to vomer's screen profile is broken because you add (" ") between the link
The Gingerbread Man said:
My man, I am subscribed! I'll update the required posts and threads by me when I'm feeling fresher (sober) in the AM
Edit
Nice to see this got stickied nice one!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy with the sticky as well
gravityy said:
nice thread, but the link to vomer's screen profile is broken because you add (" ") between the link
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good catch
Color temp is pretty good stock. For me its the gamma that drives me nuts. I've been waiting for your results to start with mine. As you noted Franco fixed his interface.
Thanks a ton. Spent my donation/app fund this week on Peek. You're up next.
Subscribed! Awesome work and lots of good info. Thanks @yorici
Are you able to share with us your profile @yorici? Will definitely be referencing this thread when I buy my own colorimeter in the coming month!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
blackt5 said:
Color temp is pretty good stock. For me its the gamma that drives me nuts. I've been waiting for your results to start with mine. As you noted Franco fixed his interface.
Thanks a ton. Spent my donation/app fund this week on Peek. You're up next.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha great dude! Yeah it's more gamma that needs some attention, but color temp can be improved too. Also, if you have the money and you are willing to spend it, I would suggest buying a xRite i1 Display Pro. You would want this one for the speed. It very quick in measuring. (I got it recommended by Francois Simond. He has been calibrating the displays of the One Plus One) If you are completely crazy about colors, you should buy a spectrophotometer. But that is > €1000...
Bobtehblob said:
Are you able to share with us your profile @yorici? Will definitely be referencing this thread when I buy my own colorimeter in the coming month!
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I must confess Everytime I start calibrating I discover something I don't know yet and I begin investigating it further Yesterday I took 16 measurements of the white point of which I will posts gifs of (So you can see the change). I just get intrigued and stop calibrating So I have some half baked profiles I need to continue.
In my opinion n5 display looks better than any other smartphone display I came across. It's just so easy on the eyes, I get a headache when I look other oversaturated panels. I'm not a gamma expect but I know how people faces are supposed to look so I pay a lot of attention to the skin tones when I look at the images on my phone, and any custom made profile can't be compared in the terms of color accuracy to the stock one. After all, can we calibrate the screen better than Google?
Bright Red Nexus 5
Updated post 2 with gifs about the white point! Please comment if you feel I missed something or concluded wrongly
defffizz said:
In my opinion n5 display looks better than any other smartphone display I came across. It's just so easy on the eyes, I get a headache when I look other oversaturated panels. I'm not a gamma expect but I know how people faces are supposed to look so I pay a lot of attention to the skin tones when I look at the images on my phone, and any custom made profile can't be compared in the terms of color accuracy to the stock one. After all, can we calibrate the screen better than Google?
Bright Red Nexus 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 'look at the faces' is indeed a good test to see if the display is a bit oversatured. Can we calibrate better? Yes, definitely.
The reason for this is that Google didn't do the calibration LG did. And LG had to build a profile that was an good average on all displays. No display can be exactly the same and especially when you have millions of units. The calibration is therefore not optimized on a per display basis and you can improve it
@yorici,
I have a eye one pro
Powersaving / extend battery life
On rooted and non-rooted Note 4 devices.
There are quite a few battery saving tools on the playstore market. However, most of these tools only use what your device can already do by itself. Besides that, it is one more app that can and will consume power so the overall effect of these apps is very limited.
Here is a lot of stuff you can do by yourself to save power and increase battery life. Although most forum users will already have some knowledge on the way your phone works I will begin this post with the most obvious tips on power saving.
Obviously, the list below is a list of possibilities, and not a list of stuff you should do immediately while reading this post. Just look carefully which functions you really use which you don’t. Every option can save a little bit of battery, but together they make quite a difference.
I am quite a heavy user and at this point my phone can do 1,5 to 2 full days without a charge.
General:
1 Turn your GPS of if you are not using it
2 Turn your Wifi of when not using it
3 Turn your Bluetooth of when… (you get the idea)
4 Same goes for NFC
System settings:
Display and wallpaper:
Use auto brightness and set it to your liking. There 10 different levels of auto brightness. I have found that level 2 or 3 is not only sufficient but friendlier to my eyes.
If you really want to get most out of your battery, it’s possible to have a completely black wallpaper image. Black doesn’t take any power so this will save you a lot during a full day of work. I always have one black wallpaper in my preferred wallpaper list.
Smart stay. With smart stay on, the device will stay on while looking at it. Now you can reduce the screen time out mode to 15 seconds. Actually works pretty well and saves a lot of power.
Activate auto adjust screen tone.
Turn daydream off.
Turn led indicator off.
Touch key light duration on “always off” or 1,5 seconds.
Increase touch sensitivity off.
Lockscreen:
It really helps if your lock screen just has a black wallpaper.
Unless you really need to, don’t make your screen lock too complicated. The fingerprint scanner seems pretty cool but really isn’t. It often takes several swipes to get it to work and that takes power as well.
Personally I use non at home and a simple pattern outside. I use the tasker app to automate this but I will talk some more about specific apps after the general settings.
Multiwindow:
Although the multi-window function is one of the things that makes the Note series the king of Phablets, a lot of users hardly ever use these functions. If you are one of these users, turn this function off. The hone keeps checking which apps you can or can’t use in this function evertime you open an app, or open your recent apps. This takes power and CPU.
Even if you are a multi window user, the 2 listed options:
Open in split screen view & pop up view shortcut aren’t used by many. If you don’t use them, turn them off.
S pen:
Same thing here, look at the options You really use during the day.
I do find Air command a very useful function and personally I always keep it on. If you don’t use it, you know what to do by now.
Under Air view there are the following options to turn off if not used by you:
Information preview / Preview info, extend text, or enlarge pictures hovering over them
Icon Labels / View the labels of icon by hovering over them
List scrolling / Scroll up or down by holding the pen over the edge of the screen
Link preview / Hovering over a link will show you a preview of the page
Air menu / Hover the pen over the action or attach button to add content or contacts
Motions and gestures:
Again. Turn everything off that you are not using.
Direct call / By bringing the phone to your ear it will call the contact on the screen
Smart alert / Device will vibrate when you pick it up to notify you about missed calls and messages
Mute/pause / I don’t think this option will affect your battery life
Palm swipe to capture / I have no idea who thought this would be a good option to add. Turn it off if you agree.
Cloud:
I have rooted and installed ROMS and apps on many phones of friends. What seems odd to me is that most people have at least 3 cloud storage spaces were the automatically store all their pictures. Some them even had 4 or 5 without realizing.
1 Samsung account,
2 Picasa / google,
3 Dropbox.
One of these will do just fine. You can have more but just don’t let them auto-upload your camera pics. If every picture you take has to upload to 3 or more different cloud spaces, your device will be working more than it should have to.
Backup data:
Same story. Pick one. Stick to it. Don’t have 3 backup accounts.
Accessibility:
Vision and hearing / Turn off unless you need them
Dexterity and interaction :
• Assistant menu / Off
• Air wake up / Off
• Press and hold delay / 0.5 seconds
• Interaction control / Off
Direct access / Off
Answering / ending calls / Look at what suits you best. Picking up quickly will save battery over the phone ringing longer.
Powersaving:
Whats in a name ha? The powersaving mode can be adjusted which means you can get to saave power in the way you find most efficient.
The options are:
1 Restrict background data.
• This option limits the stuff you can do on your phone rather drastically. Dowloading content, viewing multi media and sending messages. Personally I never use this as this makes my phone just as useless as a phone with an empty battery
2 Restrict performance, which has 4 sub options:
• 1 CPU performance / This machine has enough power to do pretty much everything with this option on except for some high performance games perhaps.
• 2 Screen output / Usefull to have turned on when in need of extra battery life.
• 3 Turn off touch key light / Usefull to do when needing power.
• 4 Turn of GPS / Which I already only turn on when needed.
3 Grayscale Mode
• This option doesn’t affect your performance but just makes you entire phone black and white. This grayscale mode saves a lot of power and you will still be able to do all the work stuff like browsing, mailing, texting, etc…
Ultra power saving mode:
In this mode your phone can last for several days but its use is very limited. You can browse the web, call and text but that’s pretty much it.
I think this would come in very handy if the end off the world has come, all power is gone, and you want to be the very last person to send a text
Just kidding. If this is what gets you home on a few percent of power, it comes in very handy.
Look at the standby time when you turn it on. It’s amazing how long a phone can last in this mode.
Widget use:
Widgets can save or cost you power. There are very useful widgets that give you quick access to wifi, GPS, Bluetooth and other power saving stuff on your home screen. Besides easy access you will become more awre of the fact that you have a lot of stuff on that really doesn’t need to ben on at the moment.
Other widgets can cost you lots of power and data. This mainly depends on the amount of data the widget has to download and the refresh interval. For example: If you have a Facebook widget on one of your home screens that refreshes every 15 minutes, that means it will go and download new content from facebook every 15 minutes. This costs you data (when not on Wifi), but also battery life.
So look carefully at the widgets you use before installing them on your homescreens if you want your battery to last.
Launchers and home screens:
By organizing your favorite and most used applications you will be able to open them faster and so it will shorten your screen on time.
Personally, I think you should be able to open every app within 2 seconds. If you have many apps, and the only way to open them is scrolling to several pages of app drawer, your doing something wrong.
The beauty of Android is the fact that it is the most customizable system out there so use it! Combine widgets, apps, shortcuts, and folders until you have everything within reach.
When using TouchWizz launcher, it really helps to turn of Briefing on your home screen. This makes the phone slower and it costs battery life and data usage.
Many Samsung users have come to terms with the fact that TouchWizz will never be the best launcher out there (And that’s the understatement of the [email protected]&1ng century).
That’s why most heavy users will install a third party launcher as a home screen replacement. The one most used is probably Nova Launcher.
Playstore link:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teslacoilsw.launcher
Youtube tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO52dfFm40o
I have found after installing this launcher and setting it up, my battery life increased with 7-9% on a full days use. At this point I haven’t figured out if this is only because I navigate more efficiently, or that there are other reasons aswel.
The benefit of a third party launcher is more customization for your home screens and app drawer (such as making categories is the app drawer and such). But also to have gesture control, for example: Have apps open when swipning up or down, with one or multiple finger, double tap, home button and so on.
This gives you much easier and faster acces to your most used apps.
Other usefull apps for powersaving:
Tasker is an app that lets you automate tasks on your phone. For example letting your phone detect when you are at home, and automatically turn on wifi, turn of GPS and your lockscreen pattern.
Tasker does not have to let GPS run for these task and can also turn everything around when you leave home. The amount options on tasker is pretty much unlimited and these automated tasks can save a lot of power thus increasing battery-life .
Playstore link:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm
Youtube tutorial(s):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzY9te12UI0&list=PLjV3HijScGMynGvjJrvNNd5Q9pPy255dL
Tasker is not an easy to use in 2 minutes app. It will take some time and effort to really get into it, but beside winning a lot of battery life, it will let you automate pretty much anything you can think of.
Rooted users:
For rooted users there are many more options to save power and increase battery life.
I am just going to mention a couple:
• Limiting your CPU frequency. Your note 4 has a surplus of power and you will never need it all unless you play high performance games. You can limit the frequency completely, or make profiles that change the frequency as your battery level decreases. Personally I use the app SetCPU to do this.
Playstore link:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mhuang.overclocking
• Freezing or uninstalling bloatware. A lot of stuff on your android phone you will never use. I always use Chrome as my browser so I won’t keep the original browser Samsung gave me on my phone. This goes for many apps. I use 2 applications to freeze and/or uninstall apps from my phone to free up memory, RAM and save battery life:
SD Maid (also limited functions for non rooted users)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.sdm
Titanium Backup (also the best backup app I have found sofar)
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup
Both these apps let you freeze and uninstall bloatware. Be carefull though! Do not just start deleting everything that doesn’t look familiar, or you will get in trouble.
Freeze apps first and see if ervything keeps working. Then make sure you do a Nandroid backup within TWRP or CWM recovery before definitely uninstalling apps.
There are several lists available on the web which show what can possibly be frozen and/or deleted. This is one I found quite useful:
http://www.reddit.com/r/galaxynote4/comments/2pgiib/the_ultimate_list_of_removablefreezable_bloatware/
Custom ROMs:
There are many custom ROMs that are more friendly for your battery then the stock firmware. However, if you are new to rooting and installing custom ROMS please be carefull and watch the tutorials before you start flashing away.
A good site to begin is:
http://galaxynote4root.com/
From XDA Senior Member:
Zedomax (Profile http://forum.xda-developers.com/member.php?u=2447605)
Many thanks Max. You are the one that got me hooked on this stuff!
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great post thank you!! I wonder if you could share how much did you limit the CPU and if you you'd recommend any ROM there is plenty of them but which one worked the best for you? Thank you very much
CPU and ROM
mefistos said:
great post thank you!! I wonder if you could share how much did you limit the CPU and if you you'd recommend any ROM there is plenty of them but which one worked the best for you? Thank you very much
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Thanks man.
I have the CPU set on 1728 MHz without any lag or problems even with multitasking. Only when playing games I push it up to the max.
At this moment I use 2 ROMs:
Alliance V2.2: This one is most customizable and you'll keep all the touchwizz functions. (I do recommend a third party launcher like NOVA or Action Launcher 3 to get rid of the lag TW still has).
CM12 official: This is more friendly to your battery, but you'll have to install CM Spen addon and Note buddy or Spen control to get some Spen functions working. The latest nightlies hardly have any bugs (I haven't experienced any).
Willem1975 said:
Thanks man.
I have the CPU set on 1728 MHz without any lag or problems even with multitasking. Only when playing games I push it up to the max.
At this moment I use 2 ROMs:
Alliance V2.2: This one is most customizable and you'll keep all the touchwizz functions. (I do recommend a third party launcher like NOVA or Action Launcher 3 to get rid of the lag TW still has).
CM12 official: This is more friendly to your battery, but you'll have to install CM Spen addon and Note buddy or Spen control to get some Spen functions working. The latest nightlies hardly have any bugs (I haven't experienced any).
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I don't really play games so I am alright with 1728
I was actually wondering how does CM works with S Pen thank you for the info I will definitely try both of them
Willem1975 said:
Powersaving / extend battery life
There 10 different levels of auto brightness. I have found that level 2 or 3 is not only sufficient but friendlier to my eyes.
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Can you explain how to change the auto brightness level? All I see is the "auto" checkbox and that's it. No way to adjust the auto brightness level. I can adjust the brightness manually though, but that isn't "auto".
Auto brightness levels
spexwood said:
Can you explain how to change the auto brightness level? All I see is the "auto" checkbox and that's it. No way to adjust the auto brightness level. I can adjust the brightness manually though, but that isn't "auto".
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When pulling down your notifications, you'll see a slider and a checbox as you can see see in thee pic below. (It might look different becausse I'm running Alliancerom).
If the checkbox is ticked, you can adjust the slider for different levels of autobrightness. Without the checkbox ticked, you change the screen brightness directly.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Willem1975 said:
When pulling down your notifications, you'll see a slider and a checbox as you can see see in thee pic below. (It might look different becausse I'm running Alliancerom).
If the checkbox is ticked, you can adjust the slider for different levels of autobrightness. Without the checkbox ticked, you change the screen brightness directly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on stock and with Auto checked, it becomes unchecked when you adjust the slider. Thus, adjusting the slider only forces it into manual brightness.
Edit: and I'm on the n910a
Didn't know that. Did not spend much time on stock. Sorry....
spexwood said:
I'm on stock and with Auto checked, it becomes unchecked when you adjust the slider. Thus, adjusting the slider only forces it into manual brightness.
Edit: and I'm on the n910a
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Nothing like that happens on the snapdragon one. And i can bet it shouldn't happen on Exynos as well. This feature has been the same for years, and has worked very well; there is no reason to change it on any variant now.
Recheck that your rom is not messed up.
maksharma231 said:
Nothing like that happens on the snapdragon one. And i can bet it shouldn't happen on Exynos as well. This feature has been the same for years, and has worked very well; there is no reason to change it on any variant now.
Recheck that your rom is not messed up.
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My firmware is via ATT OTA, so it isn't messed up. I can't even flash anything since the n910a isn't rootable. The way my brightness slider is now is also how it was on Kitkat, and all ATT models are like mine.
It's just that when you mentioned the different auto brightness levels, I thought that maybe there was something I was overlooking in my settings. Apparently not, since your type of autobrightness was apparently adjusted by ATT.
spexwood said:
My firmware is via ATT OTA, so it isn't messed up. I can't even flash anything since the n910a isn't rootable. The way my brightness slider is now is also how it was on Kitkat, and all ATT models are like mine.
It's just that when you mentioned the different auto brightness levels, I thought that maybe there was something I was overlooking in my settings. Apparently not, since your type of autobrightness was apparently adjusted by ATT.
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Yup, must be ATT setup, although it makes much more sense the default android way.
Wonder why they decided to change it
My battery life on my note 4 is truly awful and I genuinely have no idea what's doing it, without fail it'll die like half way through the day when I only really use it for reddit and WhatsApp, I've heard by a lot of people that snapchat is really bad for battery. Whenever I look at these battery apps they never seem to tell me though, my screen on time is always atrocious and everyone else is getting like 6 hours, I use alxedandr rom btw, I also get lags here and there and I have no idea why can anyone help
Drizzy xS said:
My battery life on my note 4 is truly awful and I genuinely have no idea what's doing it, without fail it'll die like half way through the day when I only really use it for reddit and WhatsApp, I've heard by a lot of people that snapchat is really bad for battery. Whenever I look at these battery apps they never seem to tell me though, my screen on time is always atrocious and everyone else is getting like 6 hours, I use alxedandr rom btw, I also get lags here and there and I have no idea why can anyone help
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Most people are having problems with Google Play services drain. It's causing poor battery life because it's stopping the phone from deep sleeping. Sign out of Google Play in the accounts page in settings, then reboot the phone and sign back in again. Uncheck all the items you don't want to sync for Google.
I'm on lollipop and did a cache wipe straight after installing AND uninstalled the Facebook app. I've got 40% remaining after 12.5 hours. Boc3 seems to be really stable.
If you are having problems with battery drain I suggest you go to settings>application manager>running and kill tasks from there.
I am getting exceptional battery life on my Exynos
just quickly, is there any way to like reset the battery life physically?
ie in the old days, we would often let the battery run flat out, and recharge fully and run flat out a couple times.
and it'll basically give you the best longest battery life after doing this.
I think I just discovered a fix after updating to 5.0, I am running stock just for the info, all I did was boot into recovery and wipe cashe partition about 3-4 times and that seemed to have worked very well battery life is back to normal. Can someone who has this problem confirm?
joe1blue said:
I think I just discovered a fix after updating to 5.0, I am running stock just for the info, all I did was boot into recovery and wipe cashe partition about 3-4 times and that seemed to have worked very well battery life is back to normal. Can someone who has this problem confirm?
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What was your previous battery usage like for heavy, moderate and low usage?
Gold3nCloud said:
What was your previous battery usage like for heavy, moderate and low usage?
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It was strangely very bad after I updated to stock 5.0, I would lose about 2% every 15min I mean very bad to the point that I was about to do a factory reset.
KK only
For those who cannot identify the battery drain source from the battery setting, disable your alarm clock. The stock alarm clock is causing a huge drain, and it hides itself in the Android System. Not even wake detector could detect it. I did a search, but couldn't find anyone talking about it. My SOT drops by an hour with the alarm clock on.