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[Streak10]HDMI dock breakout box

Dell Streak 10 HDMI Dock connector
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Yea so dell was super lame with not including hdmi/usb on the device itself, there's PLENTY of room to fit the connectors comfortably.
If it wasnt for the fact that the s10 uses a higher voltage to charge, everything done on the new connector could be accomplished on the s5/s7 pdmi-like connector. Even then the charging part is unnesscerry, as all other 10.1" tabs can charge fine though high-capacity usb chargers.
It features a HDMI connector, a USB-A female port, and a dock connector pass though to charge. It costs ¥299, which is approx $47 USD, which is really expensive for something that coulda been built into the device. But I assume most buyers knew this beforehand before buying.
Honeycomb should fully support HDMI/USB out of the box, so there shouldnt be anything to configure. Hopefully it will operate without requiring external power, which is almost forgivable since if you're going to attach it to a tv one extra box wont be a huge deal.
I am considering buying one myself since I'm in it for the long haul, but it's hard to overlook how lame dell was with this. I cant offer much advice to anyone else interested in importing, I'm going to go though my friend same as when my s10 was imported.
I do not believe there are any other accessories planned, the only thing missing vs the pdmi-like connector on the s5/7 is line out, which the s10 may not even support.
A lot of this criticism is also valid for the s7 though, it requires the hdmi dock to do anything, even though it could have been fitted with a microhdmi connector or usb host connector. The multimedia dock's launch MSRP was about $50 also, so they're both on par with pricing of additional connectivity.

TheManii said:
Dell Streak 10 HDMI Dock connector
Yea so dell was super lame with not including hdmi/usb on the device itself, there's PLENTY of room to fit the connectors comfortably.
If it wasnt for the fact that the s10 uses a higher voltage to charge, everything done on the new connector could be accomplished on the s5/s7 pdmi-like connector. Even then the charging part is unnesscerry, as all other 10.1" tabs can charge fine though high-capacity usb chargers.
It features a HDMI connector, a USB-A female port, and a dock connector pass though to charge. It costs ¥299, which is approx $47 USD, which is really expensive for something that coulda been built into the device. But I assume most buyers knew this beforehand before buying.
Honeycomb should fully support HDMI/USB out of the box, so there shouldnt be anything to configure. Hopefully it will operate without requiring external power, which is almost forgivable since if you're going to attach it to a tv one extra box wont be a huge deal.
I am considering buying one myself since I'm in it for the long haul, but it's hard to overlook how lame dell was with this. I cant offer much advice to anyone else interested in importing, I'm going to go though my friend same as when my s10 was imported.
I do not believe there are any other accessories planned, the only thing missing vs the pdmi-like connector on the s5/7 is line out, which the s10 may not even support.
A lot of this criticism is also valid for the s7 though, it requires the hdmi dock to do anything, even though it could have been fitted with a microhdmi connector or usb host connector. The multimedia dock's launch MSRP was about $50 also, so they're both on par with pricing of additional connectivity.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that the S7 also provides a higher charge than normal USB. EDIT: That is why one cannot use it and charge from a computer. I think the S7 charger is 2mA.

The s7 can charge from [email protected] 500mA-2000mA, though only meaningfully at 1000-2000mA, or 2.5-10W.
the s10 charges at 19v @ 1580mA or 30W.
I've seen the s7 'charge' from 500mA while the screen is off, it just takes 10 or so hours to do so

TheManii said:
The s7 can charge from [email protected] 500mA-2000mA, though only meaningfully at 1000-2000mA, or 2.5-10W.
the s10 charges at 19v @ 1580mA or 30W.
I've seen the s7 'charge' from 500mA while the screen is off, it just takes 10 or so hours to do so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the clarification. 19v - Yeow! 30w is what my HP Slate 500 uses for charging...

TheManii said:
Dell Streak 10 HDMI Dock connector
It features a HDMI connector, a USB-A female port, and a dock connector pass though to charge. It costs ¥299, which is approx $47 USD, which is really expensive for something that coulda been built into the device.
I am considering buying one myself since I'm in it for the long haul, but it's hard to overlook how lame dell was with this. I cant offer much advice to anyone else interested in importing, I'm going to go though my friend same as when my s10 was imported.
QUOTE]
Hi TheManii, any chance in helping us purchasing this device? I got my S10 at eBay. The guy who sold me the S10 also helped me purchase the Targus Silicone Cover. But somehow this guy dissapeared. So dont know who to ask now for help.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Sorry I'm getting a friend to have one brought back on carry-on, they'll be leaving china in a couple days and it simply wouldnt be possible to order an extra before they depart.
Just as much, bringing multiples might look suspicious, but a single can easily be explained away.
If the timing wasnt so perfect I really dont know when i'd be able to get mine myself

TheManii said:
Sorry I'm getting a friend to have one brought back on carry-on, they'll be leaving china in a couple days and it simply wouldnt be possible to order an extra before they depart.
Just as much, bringing multiples might look suspicious, but a single can easily be explained away.
If the timing wasnt so perfect I really dont know when i'd be able to get mine myself
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. Thanks. I will try to find some other way. Only wish Dell could have designed the adapter without the short cable like this...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Ge...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item4cfbbe3269

The dell one has 2 ports and a passthough, it would really work out unless you wanted to get 2 seperate ones.
Personally it seems about right the way it is since it makes a good docking station setup if you get a good stand. If it was vertically down it'd be pretty difficult to have it mounted upright unless you got a very tall stand

TheManii said:
The dell one has 2 ports and a passthough, it would really work out unless you wanted to get 2 seperate ones.
Personally it seems about right the way it is since it makes a good docking station setup if you get a good stand. If it was vertically down it'd be pretty difficult to have it mounted upright unless you got a very tall stand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point. Hope you will do a review once yours arrived. Cheers

Just recieved mine today, it's pretty great (if you ignore the fact it should have been built into the s10.
It's smaller then the picture implies, it's only slightly wider then the dock connector itself. It adds very little bulk to your kit if you carry it (in a bag or so) with your s10
W1orks exactly like you'd expect, the s10 supports usb hubs too.
Currently typing this on my tv with my s10 hooked up to it, have a usb keyboard and mouse and am currently charging my s5 off the s10 which itself is also charging off the wall.
Dell could easily make a transformer type dock for the s10 if they were inclined to. The fact that all the ports are on the bottom middle makes it extremely easy to hack together.
Only issue is that the charger is 19V which is a lot to ask from a battery.
Mini Review
As previously stated, the available ports on it are:
HDMI out
USB in
Power passthrough
HDMI Out
Works just as expected on any tegra2 device(?). It mirrors everything you see on the screen and shows it on the tv. You cant turn the tab screen off without losing your picture, but this is a limitation of the t2 itself and not the s10. (exact same thing happens on the s7)
Unfortunately some apps are not single touch friendly, such as the maps app on HC devices, you must use the screen to zoom in and out, but this is a limitation of apps and not related.
USB in
Works pretty great, plugged in a usb hub and a usb keyboard and mouse and they all worked fine. Even plugged in my S5 to charge and it works, though it's very slow as it's very underpowered. (not really surprising)
I put my s5 in usb mode and the s10 wouldnt mount. Afterwards it apparently completely corrupted my card[!]. Fortunately it had nothing irreplacable, but I dont know yet if this was a one off thing or consistant.
Power passthrough
Does exactly what it looks like it does, lets you also charge it while in use.
Overall
The box itself is pretty small, it's only slightly wider then the dock connector. The press shots dont really do it justice to how small it feels. The thing is also very light as it seems to not actually contain anything, it's merely a pass though connector.
Conclusion:
Pros:
Small
Light
Supports usb hubs
Easy way to organize cables/acts as a docking station
Cons:
Bit pricy for just a dumb passthough box
Corrupted my memory card[!](?)
Should be bundled with all new s10s and not seperate
Random trivia: PEGATRON (the manufacturer of the S10 for dell) was spun off from asustek along with asus. The Transformer was made by asus. The S10 essentially has capability of it's own version of a transformer dock. The dock connector is in the right location and exposes the needed pins for a transformer type dock to be made, were it not for the way the s10 charges. Unfortunately it is unlikely for a transformer type dock to ever be made.

USB OTG Cable host mode while charging anyone try this accessory?

I've searched and never seen an actual 'buyable' product linked on the forums so if this is a dup, I apologize.
Anyone try one of these and see if you can have your Nexus in host mode and charge at the same time?
Is the only option for the female Micro USB port to bring more charge to a usb device plugged in and not to bring charge
to the Nexus itself?
Two scenarios would make this ideal for me:
1.) using my usb xbox controller to play games yet still keeping my tablet charged
2.) using a usb thumb drive to play a movie while still keeping my table charged
I think this would be pretty cool if it worked but I don't know the technical details on if it can be done with our Nexus 7's:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110931117836
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Looks like it's meant for providing power to the USB device you connect (e.g.. external hard drive) instead of to the Nexus7...

The eBay description says it provides charging the the micro-USB port. Only way to know is to buy it and try it out

Who's going to be the Guinea pig?
Sent from my Nexus 7

Hell, I'd do it, but I don't have a Nexus seven yet. LOL
I've been waiting for someone to get a working solution fit this before I purchase one. That and I need good 3.5mm sound quality and I've read its ****e on the Nexus 7.
Blasted from my HTC Rezound (Zone23s Newtified 3.2.1)

RED ZMAN said:
Hell, I'd do it, but I don't have a Nexus seven yet. LOL
I've been waiting for someone to get a working solution fit this before I purchase one. That and I need good 3.5mm sound quality and I've read its ****e on the Nexus 7.
Blasted from my HTC Rezound (Zone23s Newtified 3.2.1)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My sounds works fine, and I haven't even bothered getting the volume + app yet for tweaking. I think there's just no pleasing some ppl with a bare bones tablet like this one.
-Ara
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

I have a OK Galaxy Tab in the dash of my car, and use the headset port for music, didn't want to upgrade without seeing one in person.
Hopefully some sort of dock solution will make Otg and charging possible and I can upgrade. Thanks!
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

Ordered 1, but says shipping is between September 7 to September 20 haha

OTG and Charging is mutually exclusive, the OTG cable triggers the USB controller to send power out to a device, not receive power.
the pogo docks on the bottom of the device are also impossible to charge from as the nexus 7 has only been given one charging circuit, and that is the same one that OTG disables.
The only way to achieve something like this would be a physical battery hack where you splice in a charging circuit direct to the battery, without frying the phone maybe some unidirectional resistors, so that it can be simultaneously charged whilst powering the device.
I'm 99% certain of this information, and this is not to say someone might hack a kernel together one day

you might be able to install one of them batteries you can just set it on a charging pad and it will charge

barkerd25017 said:
you might be able to install one of them batteries you can just set it on a charging pad and it will charge
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
davidcampbell said:
OTG and Charging is mutually exclusive, the OTG cable triggers the USB controller to send power out to a device, not receive power.
the pogo docks on the bottom of the device are also impossible to charge from as the nexus 7 has only been given one charging circuit, and that is the same one that OTG disables.
The only way to achieve something like this would be a physical battery hack where you splice in a charging circuit direct to the battery, without frying the phone maybe some unidirectional resistors, so that it can be simultaneously charged whilst powering the device.
I'm 99% certain of this information, and this is not to say someone might hack a kernel together one day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a ZAGG battery pack I'm planning on trying this with and I will report back I also have that same pad and I can get a fairly cheap charger to place on the matt as you say. Either way that wouldn't be very convenient, but I'll check it out
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

davidcampbell said:
OTG and Charging is mutually exclusive, the OTG cable triggers the USB controller to send power out to a device, not receive power.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong. https://github.com/teamhacksung/and...mmit/4c1c965b168bc4488ef66889e1c8933bc1b3de46 for an example on Galaxy S2/Note
As to whether the adapter linked is a proper OTG ACA (they're VERY hard to find) and whether the grouper supports OTG ACA is unknown. It's something a kernel developer can probably implement.

Thanks Entropy512, I can see it working on other devices, that gives me hope... I might rig something up myself now, I've wanted to take a cheap usb keyboard plastic leather cover, and build in an extra battery, card reader and usb hub, now this might be theoretically possible

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1822653
I don't have a N7 yet, but when I get one I want to try that.
Sent from my SGH-I777 using xda app-developers app

I can confirm that simply splicing a standard OTG cable into the port and plugging in a power cord will not work. I thought I'd utilize the empty socket from where the rear camera was supposed to go, and try to fit the OTG-to-microSD set-up inside of the Nexus. I bought a salvaged USB/headphone port from a damaged Nexus off of Ebay for $1 and the smallest microSD adapter I could find. With the use of a ribbon cable from an old laptop, some trimming, and some REALLY careful soldering I was able to make it work... sorta. Stickmount sees the card and everything runs great, until you plug in a power cord. Then, it disables the microSD adapter, and even though Stickmount says it's there, no files are visible. Also, the Nexus won't charge with this arrangement.
It might work with a different set up, but simply mimicking the OTG cable will not allow a Stickmounted volume and when the charger is plugged in.
(BTW - To make everything fit, I had to use a Dremel to grind away some of the mid-frame area around the rear camera space. It's a tight fit, but keep in mind that until you have a spare mid-frame, like I do, you'll obviously void your warranty.)

ED2O9 said:
I can confirm that simply splicing a standard OTG cable into the port and plugging in a power cord will not work. I thought I'd utilize the empty socket from where the rear camera was supposed to go, and try to fit the OTG-to-microSD set-up inside of the Nexus.
...
Stickmount sees the card and everything runs great, until you plug in a power cord.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this very thing, same results.

Has anybody tried charging through the pin connectors on the left side?

Mechanio said:
I tried this very thing, same results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here, only I went a step further and added a 36k resistor from the ID line to ground and that didn't do anything either.

Hope all your work ends in success.
I would like to put this device as a car Entertainment system later. But charging and USB otg is a must.
NEXUS 7

It's a nice method to use in a couple of years your old Nexus 7 as a seedbox

Project GAMETRIX

Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix[/]
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.

Here are average power draw for the Wii. @17 Watts http://www.blogcdn.com/www.joystiq.com/media/2007/02/next-gen_console_power_lg.jpg
And here for Gamecube. @23 Watts http://www.tpcdb.com/product.php?id=1615
Lapdock voltage output. ??? I think I'd have to replace the battery because it's only supposed to charge a phone/run an OS...
Lapdock insternal battery mAh ???
Please guys I know it's a lot but any input is great input

sounds fun. good luck dude.

Use a wii its better and supports a HDMI converter.
The gamecube already has a battery pack accessory and a screen accessory so its easy been done
Sent from Moto Atrix 4g on Neutrino 2.91

I have decided to go with the Wii, I am trying to find info on how many amps the Wii draws and if the Lapdock is capable of powering it...

I think I would try seeing how they both look on the screen before diving in much further, but it does sound like it could be a fun project.
Other thoughts:
how useful the project will be specifically to you? For many of us, due to the limited availability of the lapdocks, there's a limited number of people that will be able to try this themselves.
do you plan on strictly playing games, or are you going a bit further by using Linux on the device? I imagine there is a way you could use the keyboard as some type of input device, although you may have to create some translator device from a programmable Microcontroller.
is the screen big enough for enjoying using the device or is it more of a challenge than it's worth. The screen may be plenty big enough for a handheld device, but for something like using a Wii controller where you are at a distance from the screen, is it big enough?
Budget This is something we all overlook far to often. Something starts off small and simple, but before you know it, you end up spending way more than you had anticipated.

I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.

jeffreygtab said:
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power will probably be an issue through USB as USB does have a specification for max current of 500–900 mA (general); 5 A (charging devices). After that the port should shutdown to prevent burning out the controller.
Edit: I was looking at your figures above, did some digging, and I think you have a couple hurdles.
To start with, for power consumption, you want to look more at peak then you do at min and give yourself a bit of cushion, mainly because running at max power all the time will tax components. Second, and this is a big one, the Wii power pack apparently is 12V 3.7A (44.4W). USB is only 5 volts, and at 900mA you're peaking at 4.5W. However, if you could somehow manage to trick it into charge mode, you might be able to squeeze 25W. That's if it works like a standard USB port. If you can do that, you can step up the voltage with a charge pump, but I'm not quite sure how close to max that will put you due to efficiency losses. You may be able to go the other way and use the Wii to power the lapdock, or you may have to power them independently.
All that said, I think it's still important to just try to see what it looks like on the screen before digging in too far.

I plan on charging it through the Micro USB which you said supplies up to 23W+ Which is apparently plenty for the Wii. I'm going to order the necessary cords to attempt this, this weekend. So next week I'll know how much, if any, I have to modify to power it.....
I'll continue to research, and thanks for your help!
EDIT: screen size isn't an issue, as I'm have it right in from of me like a laptop, Playing Super Smash Bros Melee and the like.

BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.

jeffreygtab said:
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you want to convert 5V DC to 120V AC and then downconvert to 12V? Better to just go from 5V to 12V, but the reality is that it's much easier to go down than up. What does the lapdock itself have for a power supply?
Edit: Looks like the Wii has some type of USB keyboard support. Not sure if you want to try getting that to work, but it might come in handy.

I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.

Check out about halfway down the page on this link if you want to see what the Wii looks like on the lapdock screen:
http://www.robpol86.com/index.php/Atrix_Lapdock_Other_Uses

jeffreygtab said:
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to share my limited knowledge. Anyway, Really, I'm unsure if you can pull 25W out of the USB or not, but even if you could, you'd lose a good chunk of that in going from 5V to 125V AC, because at this point, a charge pump is no longer an option but instead you would need a power inverter, and since most of the commercially available ones are designed to go from 12V DC to 120V AC, you would likely end up building one yourself. The charge pump (buck–boost converter) is much easier to build, but I'm not sure about how much power you can get out of it.
Here's one I built from modifying a schematic I found online somewhere:

I hate to be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.

ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.

So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.

lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.

ravilov said:
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, running that close to maximum is likely going to be short lived, and that's if it can be coaxed to go there in the first place. I'm not sure what the portability thing is about anyway. The Wii may be small, but it's heavy.
---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------
jeffreygtab said:
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly capable, very slim chance, but doing so would be running very close to max the entire time the Wii is powered. You would also have to build a device to convert 5V to 12V, again, not impossible, but you do lose some power do to conversion inefficiencies. Is there any particular reason you want the device to be portable? IMHO, in order to run the Wii for any length of time, you would need a decent set of batteries. A few amps plugged in is one thing, on battery power that's something else. I could easily see you using something like a couple Power Wheels 6V batteries and a 12V charger or some similar setup, maybe some lithium cells if you're a big spender. Anything more than that and you're wheeling this thing around on a cart with a deep cycle marine/RV battery.

Haha a definitive answer would be welcomed as to whether it's theoretically capable or not, but if you can't provide that, I completely understand! Anyways It just needs to be temporarily portable, like 1 hour battery life is plenty. Thanks... Btw I can't actually thank you guys anymore as I'm out of thanks.

True 2 amp cable

just looking for where i can get a proven 2 amp cable for my note ii. thanks

billymaloney3 said:
just looking for where i can get a proven 2 amp cable for my note ii. thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just purchased the OEM battery with charging dock from Samsung with a 50% off coupon posted on this forum. Cost just under $30 bucks and the charging cable is 2 amps for certain, I checked the current while charging my phone with it. It cannot be used to plug into a usb port on a pc.
Here's the thread with the coupon code.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1957986
The link to the 2 amp oem charger on the Samsung site.
http://m.samsung.com/us/mobile/cell-phones-accessories/ETA-U90JWEBXAR
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda premium

The thing is, I've gone through two OEM chargers now (One came with the phone, one bought on Amazon) and both no longer charge at 2A
In fact, the one that came with the phone has deteriorated so much it only charges at 160mA.

D3_ said:
The thing is, I've gone through two OEM chargers now (One came with the phone, one bought on Amazon) and both no longer charge at 2A
In fact, the one that came with the phone has deteriorated so much it only charges at 160mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like my original cable isn't charging the way it used to. The one that came with the external charging dock works better than the one that came with the phone.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda premium

D3_ said:
The thing is, I've gone through two OEM chargers now (One came with the phone, one bought on Amazon) and both no longer charge at 2A
In fact, the one that came with the phone has deteriorated so much it only charges at 160mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. How do I check if my OEM cable has deteriorated for sure? Mine "feels" like it is getting slower for some reason.

so is there no true 2 amp cable? I'm not going to pay the extra money for the OEM one if its just going to deteriorate
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda app-developers app

I had trouble finding cables that I knew were reliable, so, I ended up fabricating my own. When purchasing new cables, they rarely mention what gauge wire they use. Most typical usb cables use 24/22ga. Some, like the oem use thicker gauge wire for the charge lines. The cables I made, easily handle 2 amps and thensome. I used the same wire that I use for my high powered LED light system which draws up to 6 amps without breaking a sweat. I know it is overkill, but I went with military-spec 18 gauge wire, stranded, silver tinned copper with teflon jacket. I bought new connectors, usb-a and micro-usb from overseas as I could not find them locally. After soldering, I filled each connector with an epoxy resin to eliminate all vibration and make the plug all one solid unit. I rarely actually use cables for data, so, I made them strictly for charging. Using only two wires also made is easier for me to use the thicker gauge. I bridged the data ports within the micro-usb plug. I have a non-samsung usb car charger that never charges some of my other phones at full rate unless the data ports are bridged. I made an inline adapter for the purpose that I used for a while. Making my own cables gave me the perfect opportunity to bridge them internally and eliminate the adapter. Certain phones need the data ports bridged or else they will think they are hooked up to a computer and limit charging to 700 milliamps, give or take. Hope you find the cable to suit your needs.....
~ evil ~

evil510 said:
I had trouble finding cables that I knew were reliable, so, I ended up fabricating my own. When purchasing new cables, they rarely mention what gauge wire they use. Most typical usb cables use 24/22ga. Some, like the oem use thicker gauge wire for the charge lines. The cables I made, easily handle 2 amps and thensome. I used the same wire that I use for my high powered LED light system which draws up to 6 amps without breaking a sweat. I know it is overkill, but I went with military-spec 18 gauge wire, stranded, silver tinned copper with teflon jacket. I bought new connectors, usb-a and micro-usb from overseas as I could not find them locally. After soldering, I filled each connector with an epoxy resin to eliminate all vibration and make the plug all one solid unit. I rarely actually use cables for data, so, I made them strictly for charging. Using only two wires also made is easier for me to use the thicker gauge. I bridged the data ports within the micro-usb plug. I have a non-samsung usb car charger that never charges some of my other phones at full rate unless the data ports are bridged. I made an inline adapter for the purpose that I used for a while. Making my own cables gave me the perfect opportunity to bridge them internally and eliminate the adapter. Certain phones need the data ports bridged or else they will think they are hooked up to a computer and limit charging to 700 milliamps, give or take. Hope you find the cable to suit your needs.....
~ evil ~
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am not skilled enough to make one of these but would you be willing to sell me a few?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda app-developers app

The cable that comes with Pantech Burst..
Sent from my GT-N7100 using xda premium

I never understand how we have 2 identical threads going in parallel lol!!
Just replied in another thread about 2A cable: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=44218947&postcount=12 - $3 from Monoprice, and you are done!

vectron said:
$3 from Monoprice, and you are done!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unless you want it in the UK in which case it's $30 shipping.

billymaloney3 said:
I am not skilled enough to make one of these but would you be willing to sell me a few?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There have been quite a few posts with links to cables that seem to work fine for others. I would be willing to sell some cables, if there was enough of a demand for them, however, to be honest I think there are many other viable, more inexpensive options. I could never sell them for what some of these other cables are going for that are mass produced. I put a lot of thought, time and work into these. The mil-spec wire alone that I use could buy you a few sets of other cables. I purchase the connectors in bulk and the first batches have been accounted for. Also, I am backed up doing so many other different mods at the moment that cables are at the bottom of the list. I'll try to post some pics soon. If, after that you decide you'd still like one, we can go from there.....

I bough an OEM samsung note 2 charger and a couple of days ago it stopped charging like it used it. It goes much much slower.

Just a heads up
You can find these at Wagreens usually around the register areas. They aren't the best looking but they charge my Note 2 and Nexus 7, which both require a 2A charge, very quickly. I can get from a 30% back to 100% in less than an hour on these bad boys.
Ive ordered several micro USB cords on Amazon and they either don't work at all or charge my phone very slowly. Even ones that have claimed to be OEM samsung, they finally show up and they're not. So far these are the only ones I have found that truly work with 2A chargers
One side of the "Y" is micro USB and the other is mini USB
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"lightbox_next": "Next",
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"lightbox_download": "Download",
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phatmanxxl said:
You can find these at Wagreens usually around the register areas. They aren't the best looking but they charge my Note 2 and Nexus 7, which both require a 2A charge, very quickly. I can get from a 30% back to 100% in less than an hour on these bad boys.
Ive ordered several micro USB cords on Amazon and they either don't work at all or charge my phone very slowly. Even ones that have claimed to be OEM samsung, they finally show up and they're not. So far these are the only ones I have found that truly work with 2A chargers
One side of the "Y" is micro USB and the other is mini USB
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How much were those at Walgreens? I might make a trip over there tomorrow.

http://m.walgreens.com/mt/www.walgr...--micro-dual-end-cable/ID=prod6110194-product
Price varies from store to store, they're $4.99 here.
uchosen said:
How much were those at Walgreens? I might make a trip over there tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

How I fixed slow charging

A lot of us have the slow charging problem. I'm pretty sure it's a hardware problem and the micro USB port isn't the highest quality and suffers from wear and tear. I've already replaced one and was going to have to do a second.
Instead, I've come up with a brute force solution that seems to be working. Whether it's hardware or software or green aliens, I simply increased the current flow by increasing the voltage. I bought a 5.6V 2A generic charger off eBay and wired a micro USB charger cable to it. Just two wires, +ve and -ve. Seems to be working. I tried 6V but the tablet rejected it.
It's not perfect but I can charge the tablet in about 4-5 hours, as opposed to 2 days. I'll post updates if anyone is interested.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app

LeighR said:
A lot of us have the slow charging problem. I'm pretty sure it's a hardware problem and the micro USB port isn't the highest quality and suffers from wear and tear. I've already replaced one and was going to have to do a second.
Instead, I've come up with a brute force solution that seems to be working. Whether it's hardware or software or green aliens, I simply increased the current flow by increasing the voltage. I bought a 5.6V 2A generic charger off eBay and wired a micro USB charger cable to it. Just two wires, +ve and -ve. Seems to be working. I tried 6V but the tablet rejected it.
It's not perfect but I can charge the tablet in about 4-5 hours, as opposed to 2 days. I'll post updates if anyone is interested.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too have this problem, but i really didn't notice it till i had to go on a trip a friend and was gone 4 days. the tablet was on, but asleep.
When i got back the tablet was dead. it seemed to take over a full day of charging to get it back to full. Then a couple of days later i had got my Y charger adapter. i installed it, and added a USB stick for more storage.
I found out the next day i had to go out of town again, but i was going to drive this time. After being on the road a few hours playing videos, i noticed my tablet using more power than it was charging. So i removed the Y thinking it was faulty even tho it showed it was charging. I still had a slow charging problem with it removed.
I would like to know if this did indeed fix your issue.

It's not perfect but it will at least maintain battery whilst gaming with brightness up. Charging when off is WAY quicker than a standard 5V charger
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app

I've been "fixing" my Apple wired chargers for use with my Android devices.
## SKIP THIS IF YOU USE STOCK CHARGER ##
Probably 99.9% of android devices will expect shorted data pins, which is supposed to be the USB charging port standard. There are manufacturers that deviate slightly from this. For example Samsung adds 1.2volts to the data pins to signal that it's connected to a Samnsung charger and try to pull more amps (mostly for their early tablets). With the the S4 they added another signal voltage for their new 2 amp charger.
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"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
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"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
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## END SKIP##
Now for my point. My Nexus7, and S3 use the smb347 management IC (maybe the S4 too). It is picky when it comes to input voltage, and in the case of the Nexus7 it was programmed to be EXTRA picky. The USB standard port voltage is 5.0 ±0.25, while I believe a USB3 dedicated charging port raised this to 5.3volts. I would personally not follow LeighR advice and set up a supply to feed my devices with over 5.4volts.
If I was you I would look for chargers with a voltage under load of atleast 5.2. Use a multimeter to measure, I love the ChargerDoctor, but they used cheap connectors it drops a lot of voltage on top of the parasitic usage.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...Zt7W_x_A/w612-h816-no/IMG-20140709-WA0002.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-..._fkpgbzc/w612-h816-no/IMG-20140709-WA0003.jpg
Before mods:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...pJsAUnY/w1277-h958-no/IMG_20140607_185306.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...719-h958-no/IMG_20140618_141229%3Anopm%3A.jpg
After mods (Bridged data pins, 150k+47k resistors feeding pins with 1.2):
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAApg8/p4rvEEEyMyI/w719-h958-no/2014-06-18
Charging my S3
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...3VDZwiA/w1277-h958-no/IMG_20140618_143535.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...skyVdO8/w1277-h958-no/IMG_20140618_143539.jpg
Idle https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...icLhIC2c/w719-h958-no/IMG-20140710-WA0006.jpg
Charging my N7, note the Nexus is programmed to be even more picky. It waits up to a minute to see if the charger is crap before switches from AC into an even higher amp mode.
Pulling 1.<something> takes 2-3 hours for a full charge from low battery (5-20%).
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...1j-A27s/w1277-h958-no/IMG-20140710-WA0000.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...2sQS3Go/w1277-h958-no/IMG-20140710-WA0002.jpg
---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:05 PM ----------
If you are too lazy to check or test any of that the Nexus 5 forums love these: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1687860482&pf_rd_i=915398
Any of the new "smart" chargers that detect the connected device should also work: http://www.amazon.ca/Family-Sized-D...id=1407621965&sr=8-1&keywords=powerIQ+charger

weedy2887 said:
I've been "fixing" my Apple wired chargers for use with my Android devices.
## SKIP THIS IF YOU USE STOCK CHARGER ##
Probably 99.9% of android devices will expect shorted data pins, which is supposed to be the USB charging port standard. There are manufacturers that deviate slightly from this. For example Samsung adds 1.2volts to the data pins to signal that it's connected to a Samnsung charger and try to pull more amps (mostly for their early tablets). With the the S4 they added another signal voltage for their new 2 amp charger.
## END SKIP##
Now for my point. My Nexus7, and S3 use the smb347 management IC (maybe the S4 too). It is picky when it comes to input voltage, and in the case of the Nexus7 it was programmed to be EXTRA picky. The USB standard port voltage is 5.0 ±0.25, while I believe a USB3 dedicated charging port raised this to 5.3volts. I would personally not follow LeighR advice and set up a supply to feed my devices with over 5.4volts.
If I was you I would look for chargers with a voltage under load of atleast 5.2. Use a multimeter to measure, I love the ChargerDoctor, but they used cheap connectors it drops a lot of voltage on top of the parasitic usage.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...Zt7W_x_A/w612-h816-no/IMG-20140709-WA0002.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-..._fkpgbzc/w612-h816-no/IMG-20140709-WA0003.jpg
Before mods:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...pJsAUnY/w1277-h958-no/IMG_20140607_185306.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...719-h958-no/IMG_20140618_141229%3Anopm%3A.jpg
After mods (Bridged data pins, 150k+47k resistors feeding pins with 1.2):
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAApg8/p4rvEEEyMyI/w719-h958-no/2014-06-18
Charging my S3
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...3VDZwiA/w1277-h958-no/IMG_20140618_143535.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...skyVdO8/w1277-h958-no/IMG_20140618_143539.jpg
Idle https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...icLhIC2c/w719-h958-no/IMG-20140710-WA0006.jpg
Charging my N7, note the Nexus is programmed to be even more picky. It waits up to a minute to see if the charger is crap before switches from AC into an even higher amp mode.
Pulling 1.<something> takes 2-3 hours for a full charge from low battery (5-20%).
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...1j-A27s/w1277-h958-no/IMG-20140710-WA0000.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...2sQS3Go/w1277-h958-no/IMG-20140710-WA0002.jpg
---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:05 PM ----------
If you are too lazy to check or test any of that the Nexus 5 forums love these: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1687860482&pf_rd_i=915398
Any of the new "smart" chargers that detect the connected device should also work: http://www.amazon.ca/Family-Sized-D...id=1407621965&sr=8-1&keywords=powerIQ+charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
weedy2887, my issue is that my tablet is a permanent install in a car, so i must use 12V-DC.
I have a 5.0V charger plugged into a cigarette lighter, and using the factory USB cable that can be plugged into an AC or DC connector.
Any suggestions for a fixed car mount?

Weedy2887 is correct that over voltage is of course a potential danger to your device. However, if the voltage is too high, your tablet/phone will reject it.
The voltmeter idea looks great but the problem is with the N7 microUSB connector. So you could be supplying 5.3 volts but high resistance due to a poor connection will drop some voltage and the potential difference actually reaching the battery will be lower, hence the slow charge.
He is of course correct that if your tablet is NOT faulty, it is not a good idea to hit it with a high voltage.
I like the idea of a smart charger - is it a constant current generator? Or does it detect current drawn and vary voltage accordingly? That would be an excellent solution. In any case, some great info posted, thanks.
Regarding the car installation, if your tablet has the super slow charging problem and you want to copy my solution, you'll need to find an in-car charger that puts out 5 and a bit volts and then wire on a micro USB connector.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app

Being permanently installed changes nothing. You still need to pick a better supply.
Something adjustable, and then buy a micro usb plug:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Adjustable-B...814?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5667dc04a6
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10PCS-Right-...567?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eca7f994f
or a better cig converter:
http://www.amazon.ca/Anker®-Dual-Po...id=1407657253&sr=8-2&keywords=powerIQ+charger
I dislike the idea of relying on the device to reject over voltage, it just feels dirty to me. And your point about connector losses is interesting. You could calibrate the charger with the tablet open and a multimeter on the solder behind the socket.
The "smart" part of the charger is it can detect what the client device is and setup the right pin out on the plug. IE: Apple, Android, HTC, or Samsung.

All very valid points. Agreed
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app

weedy2887 said:
or a better cig converter:
http://www.amazon.ca/Anker®-Dual-Po...id=1407657253&sr=8-2&keywords=powerIQ+charger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not understanding how this item is better than what i'm using.
This says:
PowerIQ™ technology maximizes compatibility with Android, Apple or other devices by enabling charge speeds of up to 2.4 amps.
What i'm using now says it is a 5 amp.
http://www.usbzilla.com/chrager-adapter-sony-xperia-icon-sola-p-1741.html
The one i had before had 2 connections. (1.5 amp and 2.1 amp bought from CVS)
http://www.dhgate.com/product/colorful-dual-usb-2-ports-car-charger-cigarette/160188100.html

Try this first: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2188910&page=3 Not the whole thread look at Post #25
This fixed the N7 I had. Takes about twenty minutes. Carefully pop the battery out, take out some screws to get access to the ribbon cable contact at the bottom, clean it and reconnect. Clean the top contact too by the battery plug.
It's not the usb port it's those damn little contacts on the ribbon cable.

In your case it was the ribbon cable. And you're right, it could be for other people too. But in other cases it's a worn microusb port or other issues.
Sent from my LG-V500 using XDA Free mobile app

02sonicblue said:
I'm not understanding how this item is better than what i'm using.
This says:
PowerIQ™ technology maximizes compatibility with Android, Apple or other devices by enabling charge speeds of up to 2.4 amps.
What i'm using now says it is a 5 amp.
http://www.usbzilla.com/chrager-adapter-sony-xperia-icon-sola-p-1741.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
powerful 5 watt charging circuit to power up your iPhone, iPod or smartphone quickly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watts are not amps.
It's probably wired for Apple.
It doesn't matter what the side of it says it will put out.
The only thing that matters is what the tablet THINKS it can pull. After that is all down to the voltage level it will sustain under load.

yosmokinman said:
Try this first: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2188910&page=3 Not the whole thread look at Post #25
This fixed the N7 I had. Takes about twenty minutes. Carefully pop the battery out, take out some screws to get access to the ribbon cable contact at the bottom, clean it and reconnect. Clean the top contact too by the battery plug.
It's not the usb port it's those damn little contacts on the ribbon cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LeighR said:
In your case it was the ribbon cable. And you're right, it could be for other people too. But in other cases it's a worn microusb port or other issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This method works for me, although not perfect. From frustratingly long 22 hour charge time down to 6 hours on 1.5amp charger

While the improvement is great, your still charging in USB mode.
The tablet will charge in a little over 2 hours if it's pulling over an amp from a charger.