So you want to record more natural looking videos on your Redmi 2? Maybe so you get more headroom when video editing? Or does recording in low light look too choppy? Then this might be for you!
After reading Redmi 2 on XDA and checking out FreeDCam, I can say that it’s the best looking video recorder I’ve tried on my phone.
Of course you want to see some samples (Sorry if the samples aren’t that great but there weren’t any colourful flowers around. )
YouTube samples
Outside and sunny...
CM Snap
FreeDCam
Outside...
CyanogenMod Snap
FreeDCam
FreeDCam with some adjustments
Low light with workaround
CyanogenMod Snap
FreeDCam
This camera app will give you more manual controls than any other video recording app plus, you can even change them while recording! Here’s some specific settings that you should change…
Exposure: Adjust so nothing looks too dark or too bright (find the balance).
Contrast: Change to 0 (or something slightly higher). I guess the problem with other apps is that the contrast is set too high and makes shadows look too dark and highlights look too bright.
Sharpness: Set to 0 as the video will look more soft and natural. Sharpening after recording (i.e. using a program) seems to look better…
Denoise: Turn off as colours get washed out and we start to lose some of that detail. (Or keep it on if you really hate noise.)
There’s some issues regarding focussing, manual focus doesn’t seem to work. If you want to set your focus to infinity, after launching the app, set the focus to auto, tap to focus once and then set your focus to infinity.
Ok great now I can record better videos! But at night the video looks blurry, choppy…
The reason why this happens is so that more light can enter the camera for longer, causing the video to look blurry, choppy and noisy. Here is a workaround where you can now record at a constant 30fps even in the dark! This idea came from some OnePlus thread where you could rename a front camera video binary file to the rear camera video binary as the front camera records at a constant 30fps. Be aware there is a trade-off and it is that dark places won’t be as bright at 30fps compared to 15fps!
If you don’t do this, then 15fps could actually be helpful as you can see more with less light! FreeDCam will help a lot with a low light situation with the increased exposure and decreased contrast. You’ll get more noise though. You can either activate the denoiser and/or run a denoiser plugin after you have recorded your video.
(Note: I’m not responsible for anything that might happen on your phone. I’ve only tested this on cm13 so the files might be different across different roms.)
Note that this mod will affect all apps that record video and dark places will look very dark.
Go to /vendor/lib/
Copy the name libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so and then back it up (rename it to something like libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1
Create a copy of libchromatix_ov2680_5987fhq_default_video.so and rename it to libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so
To revert change libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1 back to libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so
Increase bitrate…
You can increase the video bitrate with FreeDCam (or any other video recording app if you mess with media_profile.xml) so you can record all that fine detail (including especially the noise). Here, we’ll change the bitrate to 40Mbps.
Just head to /system/etc/media_profiles.xml and look for: (tip: near the end)
<VideoEncoderCap name="h264" enabled="true"
minBitRate="64000" maxBitRate="20000000"
minFrameWidth="176" maxFrameWidth="1920"
minFrameHeight="144" maxFrameHeight="1088"
minFrameRate="15" maxFrameRate="30"
maxHFRFrameWidth="1920" maxHFRFrameHeight="1080"
maxHFRMode="120" />
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Change maxBitRate to 40000000 and save. This edit only tells the phone the maximum bitrate it can encode at.
In FreeDCam, make sure you’re in 1080p! Change video bitrate to 40000000 and audio bitrate 320000. Be aware that the video size will now be around 300MB/min so make sure you have plenty of storage. (I tried using an USB OTG Drive. It works! But the USB device interfered with the microphones and created noise. )
So yeah. The difference might not be that noticeable to some, but to me, it looks a lot better to me. While recording, the viewfinder might lag a bit but in the actual recorded video, it’ll be fine. I might put more samples up or maybe you try this out and get some samples for me! Hopefully there are some people here who are interested in video. :good:
My first thread
Awesome!! Works flawlessly with this app!
why dont you just give the edited file
gamernayeem said:
why dont you just give the edited file
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Of what?
magmar452 said:
Of what?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
media_profiles.xml
gamernayeem said:
media_profiles.xml
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll make a flashable zip for both the mods
magmar452 said:
I'll make a flashable zip for both the mods
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks
If you can you post guide for better picture quality in general,I am overwhelmed by amount of options it provides can you post screenshots of balanced set of options to choose specifically for our device. Thanks for this thread anyway .
rohitsonone said:
If you can you post guide for better picture quality in general,I am overwhelmed by amount of options it provides can you post screenshots of balanced set of options to choose specifically for our device. Thanks for this thread anyway .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry, this is a video specific guide. I'm making some flashable zips and I'll put some screenshots when I have time. Perhaps @shanx_verma can make a picture guide? If I have lots of time then maybe I'll make one.
Prioritizing FPS Over Exposure
Hi magmar452.
Thank you very much for this. This is some juicy detail you uncovered here!
magmar452 said:
Go to /vendor/lib/
Copy the name libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so and then back it up (rename it to something like libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1
Create a copy of libchromatix_ov2680_5987fhq_default_video.so and rename it to libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so
To revert change libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1 back to libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My front-facing camera also goes into "Slideshow Mode" in low light, so following your exact steps above didn't work for me. However, I fiddled a bit and found what does work for me:
Trade exposure for fps priority:
1. Go to /vender/lib/
2. Rename "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so" to "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1"
3. Create a copy of "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_hfr_60fps.so" and rename it to "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so"
EDIT1: Getting decent night time results using "libchromatix_ov8865_q8v18a_default_video.so" as the source. It actually allows me proper exposure/fps control. "libchromatix_ov8865_q8v18a_hfr_60fps.so" handles similarly, but prioritizes fps.
EDIT2: Various vendor libs from github/TheMuppets/xiaomi/cancro also work. However, results are all over the place.
This isn't a proper fix, but it's really good to be Slideshow-free.
Samples:
ov8865_sunny (default): youtu.be/pS544qW35ZM
ov8865_q8v18a: youtu.be/PcCC95EIceg
imx226_video_hdr: youtu.be/E79zcYlq7pU
pexxie said:
Hi magmar452.
Thank you very much for this. This is some juicy detail you uncovered here!
My front-facing camera also goes into "Slideshow Mode" in low light, so following your exact steps above didn't work for me. However, I fiddled a bit and found what does work for me:
1. Go to /vender/lib/
2. Rename "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so" to "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so.org"
3. Create a copy of "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_hfr_60fps.so" and rename it to "libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so"
EDIT: I'm getting decent night time results using "libchromatix_ov8865_q8v18a_default_video.so" as the source. It actually allows me proper exposure/fps control.
Not sure why it works, but it works. Maybe it's coincidence. I still get the occasional brief dips to 20-odd fps, but they're too infrequent to be a nuisance. It's not a proper fix, but it's really good to be Slideshow-free.
Short Samples: Original & Hack Job
Original: youtu.be/3VHuGj33vp4
Hack Job: youtu.be/oEH2E7t_5EI
P.S. I'm running CyanogenMod Nightly 6.0.1 (wt88047) on my Redmi 2 Pro (2014817)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think most roms have switch to the lollipop canera blobs and that's why the front camera is choppy now to fix the 'dark video' problem. I've switched to Resurrection Remix, there are some few changes that had to be made to the instructions (getting the old front camera file) so I can still get 30fps.I'll check it out renaming to the 60fps file. Currently I'm quite busy
magmar452 said:
So you want to record more natural looking videos on your Redmi 2? Maybe so you get more headroom when video editing? Or does recording in low light look too choppy? Then this might be for you!
Afterreading Redmi 2 on XDA and checking out FreeDCam, I can say that it’s the best looking video recorder I’ve tried on my phone.
Of course you want to see some samples (Sorry if the samples aren’t that great but there weren’t any colourful flowers around. )
YouTube samples
Outside and sunny...
CM Snap
FreeDCam
Outside...
CyanogenMod Snap
FreeDCam
FreeDCam with some adjustments
Low light with workaround
CyanogenMod Snap
FreeDCam
This camera app will give you more manual controls than any other video recording app plus, you can even change them while recording! Here’s some specific settings that you should change…
Exposure: Adjust so nothing looks too dark or too bright (find the balance).
Contrast: Change to 0 (or something slightly higher). I guess the problem with other apps is that the contrast is set too high and makes shadows look too dark and highlights look too bright.
Sharpness: Set to 0 as the video will look more soft and natural. Sharpening after recording (i.e. using a program) seems to look better…
Denoise: Turn off as colours get washed out and we start to lose some of that detail. (Or keep it on if you really hate noise.)
There’s some issues regarding focussing, manual focus doesn’t seem to work. If you want to set your focus to infinity, after launching the app, set the focus to auto, tap to focus once and then set your focus to infinity.
Ok great now I can record better videos! But at night the video looks blurry, choppy…
The reason why this happens is so that more light can enter the camera for longer, causing the video to look blurry, choppy and noisy. Here is a workaround where you can now record at a constant 30fps even in the dark! This idea came from some OnePlus thread where you could rename a front camera video binary file to the rear camera video binary as the front camera records at a constant 30fps. Be aware there is a trade-off and it is that dark places won’t be as bright at 30fps compared to 15fps!
If you don’t do this, then 15fps could actually be helpful as you can see more with less light! FreeDCam will help a lot with a low light situation with the increased exposure and decreased contrast. You’ll get more noise though. You can either activate the denoiser and/or run a denoiser plugin after you have recorded your video.
(Note: I’m not responsible for anything that might happen on your phone. I’ve only tested this on cm13 so the files might be different across different roms.)
Note that this mod will affect all apps that record video and dark places will look very dark.
Go to /vendor/lib/
Copy the name libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so and then back it up (rename it to something like libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1
Create a copy of libchromatix_ov2680_5987fhq_default_video.so and rename it to libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so
To revert change libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so1 back to libchromatix_ov8865_sunny_default_video.so
Increase bitrate…
You can increase the video bitrate with FreeDCam (or any other video recording app if you mess with media_profile.xml) so you can record all that fine detail (including especially the noise). Here, we’ll change the bitrate to 40Mbps.
Just head to /system/etc/media_profiles.xml and look for: (tip: near the end)
Change maxBitRate to 40000000 and save. This edit only tells the phone the maximum bitrate it can encode at.
In FreeDCam, make sure you’re in 1080p! Change video bitrate to 40000000 and audio bitrate 320000. Be aware that the video size will now be around 300MB/min so make sure you have plenty of storage. (I tried using an USB OTG Drive. It works! But the USB device interfered with the microphones and created noise. )
So yeah. The difference might not be that noticeable to some, but to me, it looks a lot better to me. While recording, the viewfinder might lag a bit but in the actual recorded video, it’ll be fine. I might put more samples up or maybe you try this out and get some samples for me! Hopefully there are some people here who are interested in video. :good:
My first thread
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you make a guide for MI 5? I'm trying to record guitar videos but it's choppy
luigi0824 said:
Can you make a guide for MI 5? I'm trying to record guitar videos but it's choppy
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry I don't have an Mi 5. See if lowering resolution helps or not having enough light causes this issue.
flashable zip is there?
It will be easy then
I just picked up a Google pixel 4 XL on an amazing deal! I'm just looking for suggestions from other pixel users specifically photographers on what the best manual camera app is that they've used in conjunction with g cam?
I've tested a few but everything I've shot with has resulted in grainy photos or horrible UI. If anyone can resent some suggestions I'm sure this would help out others as well.
Moment Pro Cam and Open Cam [emoji1474]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
For photos the gcam app is King from what I can tell, moment app is ok... If you want superior video control go for FilmicPro.
Demolition49 said:
For photos the gcam app is King from what I can tell, moment app is ok... If you want superior video control go for FilmicPro.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you used the moment app recently? I heard it's very buggy that's what's causing me not to pay for it to test out.
Also I'm not trying to shoot video in any way shape or form I'm just looking strictly for photography. But thanks for the suggestion.
thepersona said:
Have you used the moment app recently? I heard it's very buggy that's what's causing me not to pay for it to test out.
Also I'm not trying to shoot video in any way shape or form I'm just looking strictly for photography. But thanks for the suggestion.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The moment app is buggy, I emailed the devs and they say they are working on an update but couldn't give me a date, so it could be months before we see anything. I'd suggest shooting raw on gcam and playing with the photos in post. There may be something else out there I am unaware of
Isn’t gcam the app that comes pre-installed on the device though or is there some modded version you are referring to that I’m obviously not aware of?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Demolition49 said:
The moment app is buggy, I emailed the devs and they say they are working on an update but couldn't give me a date, so it could be months before we see anything. I'd suggest shooting raw on gcam and playing with the photos in post. There may be something else out there I am unaware of
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would use raw from the pixel Gcam however the resolution of all my images on raw is 600 x 800 rather than the original jpeg size of 2040 x 4040 etc. The raw is such a small size leaving me to not be able to use it if needed to print for portfolio etc
Is there a fix to increase the overall size of raw images to larger images or original sizes images like the jpeg counterpart?
thepersona said:
I would use raw from the pixel Gcam however the resolution of all my images on raw is 600 x 800 rather than the original jpeg size of 2040 x 4040 etc. The raw is such a small size leaving me to not be able to use it if needed to print for portfolio etc
Is there a fix to increase the overall size of raw images to larger images or original sizes images like the jpeg counterpart?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just took a picture in RAW and checked the Raw folder. The image I have is 4016 X 3008 at 13MB
Am I misunderstanding what you are trying to do?
dtroup64 said:
I just took a picture in RAW and checked the Raw folder. The image I have is 4016 X 3008 at 13MB
Am I misunderstanding what you are trying to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I'm just slowly starting to figure out how the phone works. Because I looked at my raw folder the best images I took obviously didn't have raw shooting on so that sucked but
what I realized is that for some reason my phone doesn't take raw photos when in portrait mode (the raw plus JPEG option isn't even available). And that my files are previewed as originals in the photo app and then in the actual files app they're all small kilobytes size files. I did an 8 x zoom that turned out pretty well however that's like 930x688
As seen in the pic attached. I just took another pic and when looking at it it's full resolution and amazing quality yet when I look at it in the files app it's all grainy and
I Could have sworn when I did the 8 x zoom the final quality in the preview looked way better than how it turned out when I look through it now LOL.
Apologies for the rambling but those are two issues no. My phone not shooting raw all the time specifically when I use portrait mode. But also I can't seem to find my original raw files are not in the raw folder they're just thumbnails from what I can tell. No I'm not in the thumbnail folder LOL.
dtroup64 said:
I just took a picture in RAW and checked the Raw folder. The image I have is 4016 X 3008 at 13MB
Am I misunderstanding what you are trying to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's my raw folder specifically look at the last 4 images. The aren't recent. And they're so small and pixelated no pun intended.
the photo that I attached in my earlier post above this isn't existent in that folder for some reason. The Spider-Man image below was taken like two minutes ago but for some reason there's only a JPEG of it I can't find a raw file and relating to my earlier post about my phone not always taking raw images.
Somebody can help me figure this stuff out it would save me a lot of headache and hassle
I can't even upload the dng raw file to compare. the Raw file is substantially more grainy than the actual jpeg for some reason
2000x1496 for the raw file
3024x4032 for the exact same image in jpeg.
And much better quality on the joeg. I don't understand if this is normal or not.
thepersona said:
I can't even upload the dng raw file to compare. the Raw file is substantially more grainy than the actual jpeg for some reason
2000x1496 for the raw file
3024x4032 for the exact same image in jpeg.
And much better quality on the joeg. I don't understand if this is normal or not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just tried on my phone and the raw images are all 3024x4032 whether I take them in portrait or landscape orientation. If you are getting different resolutions, then something is up. Double check your setting and make sure you are taking full resolution phones and also that the aspect ratio is set to 4:3. The 16:9 aspect ratio will actually reduce the resolution because it crops the image to 16:9. I suspect this is what is going on with your settings.
As far as the actual image quality, have you ever dealt with RAW images before? I ask because RAW images are just that, raw. They will always need to be edited in a photo editing software to bring out the beauty in them. When you use the stock camera, the Jpeg files are automatically processed through the Google software (which is very good) to bring out the beauty in them. It's completely normal for the processed Jpeg image to look much better than the RAW image. RAW images will always look "flat" and grainier compared to a jpeg image because they haven't had any processing (noise reduction, white balance correction, contrast adjustments, etc etc etc) done to them yet.
Of course the RAW image is a non-destructive file format which is why serious photographers prefer it. What this means is that the edits you do on a RAW image are not permanently modifying the original RAW file. They are just changes that are "notated" or "amended" on to the original file. (That's not the correct terminology, but hopefully you understand my point). This means that you can edit those files and makes an infinite number of changes without effecting the original RAW image data.
A Jpeg file on the other hand is a destructive file format however. This means that when you edit a Jpeg file and save it, it permanently alters the jpeg file with that change. The data that it was changed from is lost forever. You can re-edit the file, but you are changing the actual file data every time you save the file and you can't magically bring back data that wasn't saved in a previous edit. In other words, there is no way to get back to the original file after it has been edited and saved.
Here is a different way to see it. Lets say you have a RAW file and a Jpeg file and you make three successive edits to those files......
With the RAW image this is what the data would look like: RAW -> RAW+edit 1 -> RAW + edit 1 + edit 2 - > RAW + edit 1 + edit 2 + edit 3. You can always undo the edits and get back to the original RAW data.
With a Jpeg image, this is what the data would look like: Jpeg -> Jpeg after edit 1 ->Jpeg after edit 2 -> jpeg after edit 3. There is no way to go back to any of the previous versions unless you save each edit as a unique file. (I should note that using Google Photos to edit your jpeg images seems to allow you to go back to the original file, so Google must be saving the edits as a unique file automatically. But if you use another program to edit your jpegs, you need to be aware of the destructive nature of the jpeg format).
Hopefully that helps - either you or someone else reading this thread.
sic0048 said:
I just tried on my phone and the raw images are all 3024x4032 whether I take them in portrait or landscape orientation. If you are getting different resolutions, then something is up. Double check your setting and make sure you are taking full resolution phones and also that the aspect ratio is set to 4:3. The 16:9 aspect ratio will actually reduce the resolution because it crops the image to 16:9. I suspect this is what is going on with your settings.
As far as the actual image quality, have you ever dealt with RAW images before? I ask because RAW images are just that, raw. They will always need to be edited in a photo editing software to bring out the beauty in them. Jpeg files are automatically run through the Google camera software (which is very good) to bring out the beauty in them. It's completely normal for the processed Jpeg image to look much better than the RAW image. RAW images will always look "flat" and grainier compared to a jpeg image because they haven't had any processing (noise reduction, white balance correction, contrast adjustments, etc etc etc) done to them yet.
Of course the RAW image is a non-destructive file format which is why serious photographers prefer it. What this means is that the edits you do on a RAW image are not permanently modifying the original RAW file. They are just changes that are "notated" or "amended" on to the original file. (That's not the correct terminology, but hopefully you understand my point). This means that you can edit those files and makes an infinite number of changes without effecting the original RAW image data.
A Jpeg file on the other hand is a destructive file format however. This means that when you edit a Jpeg file and save it, it permanently alters the jpeg file with that change. The data that it was changed from is lost forever. You can re-edit the file, but you are changing the actual file data every time you save the file and you can't magically bring back data that wasn't saved in a previous edit. In other words, there is no way to get back to the original file after it has been edited and saved.
Here is a different way to see it. Lets say you have a RAW file and a Jpeg file and you make three successive edits to those files......
With the RAW image this is what the data would look like: RAW -> RAW+edit 1 -> RAW + edit 1 + edit 2 - > RAW + edit 1 + edit 2 + edit 3. You can always undo the edits and get back to the original RAW data.
With a Jpeg image, this is what the data would look like: Jpeg -> Jpeg after edit 1 ->Jpeg after edit 2 -> jpeg after edit 3. There is no way to go back to any of the previous versions unless you save each edit as a unique file. (I should note that using Google Photos to edit your jpeg images seems to allow you to go back to the original file, so Google must be saving the edits as a unique file automatically. But if you use another program to edit your jpegs, you need to be aware of the destructive nature of the jpeg format).
Hopefully that helps - either you or someone else reading this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey brother thanks for the amazing explanation I appreciate it. And yes I have dealt with raw files and I'm aware of how they work. I guess the visuals confused me or threw me off because it's been so long since I've done photography.
I feel a little embarrassed coming in here with an amateur worry we're concerned LOL but I am a conceptual photographer and when using my DSLR I have to go to the similar process and I just forgot that raw files are not meant to look like the finalized jpegs. It's been 3 years since I delved into photography I knew I got Rusty somewhere lol thankfully though I bought this pixel specifically so I can revisit and get back into photography using this device in conjunction with my DSLR.
I'm actually going to save your response only so I can look at it and never come back in here with a foolish post LOL. But also I'm going to look into my resolution because I hate having thick borders on my camera screen and maybe that's why I change the aspect ratio not knowing that it was going to actually crop the image substantially. More tests later today and confirm whether your hunch was true or just think it is. ?
sic0048 said:
I just tried on my phone and the raw images are all 3024x4032 whether I take them in portrait or landscape orientation. If you are getting different resolutions, then something is up. Double check your setting and make sure you are taking full resolution phones and also that the aspect ratio is set to 4:3. The 16:9 aspect ratio will actually reduce the resolution because it crops the image to 16:9. I suspect this is what is going on with your settings.
As far as the actual image quality, have you ever dealt with RAW images before? I ask because RAW images are just that, raw. They will always need to be edited in a photo editing software to bring out the beauty in them. When you use the stock camera, the Jpeg files are automatically processed through the Google software (which is very good) to bring out the beauty in them. It's completely normal for the processed Jpeg image to look much better than the RAW image. RAW images will always look "flat" and grainier compared to a jpeg image because they haven't had any processing (noise reduction, white balance correction, contrast adjustments, etc etc etc) done to them yet.
Hopefully that helps - either you or someone else reading this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here are the details of a raw image. Why is the resolution so low? Any idea? This specific issue is annoying me because I can't seem to fix it. I'm just baffled at how low the image size is.
thepersona said:
Here are the details of a raw image. Why is the resolution so low? Any idea? This specific issue is annoying me because I can't seem to fix it. I'm just baffled at how low the image size is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just to make sure we are on the same page......
When you open the camera app, click on the pull down carrot at the top of the screen. That should pull down the options menu. Scroll down to ratio and make sure it is set to "Full Image (4:3)".
Then click on the settings icon and scroll down until you see "Camera Photo Resolution" and make sure it is set to "Full Resolution"
Based on your previous posts, I don't think this is your issue, but are you accessing the RAW files via the camera settings menu where you select the RAW + JPEG image? That is probably the easiest way to make sure you are looking at the correct file and not a thumbnail, etc. There should be a "View RAW folder" link in the settings menu that you can click on to open the RAW files in Google Photos. The RAW images I have in that folder are in the 10-12MB size range and yours are only 1MB.
I'm hoping that one of these things is the culprit. If not, I'm at a loss to why your images are coming out small.
sic0048 said:
So just to make sure we are on the same page......
When you open the camera app, click on the pull down carrot at the top of the screen. That should pull down the options menu. Scroll down to ratio and make sure it is set to "Full Image (4:3)".
Then click on the settings icon and scroll down until you see "Camera Photo Resolution" and make sure it is set to "Full Resolution"
Based on your previous posts, I don't think this is your issue, but are you accessing the RAW files via the camera settings menu where you select the RAW + JPEG image? That is probably the easiest way to make sure you are looking at the correct file and not a thumbnail, etc. There should be a "View RAW folder" link in the settings menu that you can click on to open the RAW files in Google Photos. The RAW images I have in that folder are in the 10-12MB size range and yours are only 1MB.
I'm hoping that one of these things is the culprit. If not, I'm at a loss to why your images are coming out small.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Brother I followed the directions and when I go to the camera app and look in the raw folder there, I can see the original raw images in high resolution. Why can I not access those original files in the file app or downloaded gallery?
thepersona said:
Brother I followed the directions and when I go to the camera app and look in the raw folder there, I can see the original raw images in high resolution. Why can I not access those original files in the file app or downloaded gallery?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up having a separate album in my Photos app that is entitled Raw. When I take photos with the Jpeg + RAW enabled, the photos appear in that album. Is it possible that you have such an album but haven't seen it yet?
dtroup64 said:
I ended up having a separate album in my Photos app that is entitled Raw. When I take photos with the Jpeg + RAW enabled, the photos appear in that album. Is it possible that you have such an album but haven't seen it yet?
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Yes I definetley have that album. When accessing it via the photos app it's fine I see full resolution raw images but in another gallery app or even the files app it's available but the images in them are substantially smaller files.
The trick I found to work for now was to use solid explorer and go in the app and find the files path. And make a shortcut on my home screen. For the files app specifically, I'd access the list in the left panel just click on images and then access RAW. Prior to that I was accessing the internal storage then manually going to camera then raw. When I did that I found the folder but it only contained the small resolution files. It's really weird.
The fine people at OnePlus hardcoded a maximum audio bitrate of 96000Bps into /etc/media_profiles.xml and even camera apps like Cinema 4k that provide the option of setting a higher bitrate with external microphones are overridden by this standard value.
With Android 10 it seems there is no way to edit this file and have an app read a higher value such as 320kBps.
From what I understand there is a Magisk module that lets you edit build.prop, so I wonder whether there is a way to achieve this with a similar approach?
Same situation here. I need more video bitrate for recording (60fps UHD)
Copy the file to your internal storage, edit it the way you want it and then create a Magisk module to systemlessly replace the file.
Done.
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Hi! I've tested the mod but it's not working, bitrate is still at 96, test with "media info" from Google play...
I think you need to modify the file from /odm/etc/, those from vendor are not used by android anymore. Check my magisk module regarding what files I've changed and how I've did it, here: https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/...-recording-quality-mod-magisk-module.4587667/
I will also include a higher bitrate, it helps a little, but I'm more focused on reducing the white/static noise and tuning the equalizer...
Keep up the good work!
I test it with stock RUI C10 EU, with stock camera on 4K 60FPS but again the bitrate is 96kbps.
Thanks for letting me know I'll try to do some more revisions on this
Temporary removing file to prevent further problems for people