I bought a HDMI to VGA converter to be used with my Nexus 10 with projectors to give presentations. Now I connected it to my desktop monitor (via VGA), and it says "reduce resolution".
Is there a way to change the resolution? Or is this something the converter should actually do? (which I can't do, it just looks like a cable).
Thanks!
Which adapter do you have? I've been looking for one for a while.
As far as I know the HDMI out mirrors the native screen resolution. It's been that way on every android device I've used.
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk 2
novisme swell
I have this one: KanaaN micro Hdmi Vga.
I think you have to reduce the resolution of your monitor. Just go to menu and you should find.
Send from my lovely Sensation XL, from a little town in france with a very very slow internet connection.
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The n10 outputs at 1080p...always. You can't turn it down or up. You can't just switch the pinout of HDMI to VGA. It can't be done. You have to convert the signal from digital to analog. That is sometimes done inside the vga sink (many data projectors), but it is more often done with an external converter.
As for bringing down the resolution, you need to first input to a scaler that has granular resolution control an scale it down.
What about video projector?
Does that mean we can't hook up the N10 to a VGA video projector via an hdmi-to-vga converter? All the VGA video projectors I have at work have very limited resolutions (800x600, 1024x768, 640x400).
I'm really looking forwarding to get an N10 for presentations so this would be show-stopper. Your help and suggestions are most appreciated!
Getting a little frustrated with this. On my Motorola Xoom (original WiFi), I had a solution that worked. It was kind of sloppy, but it did work. I had a micro-HDMI to HDMI adapter, a small power injector (HDMI Female on one side, Male on the other), and a HDMI to VGA adapter. All those connected together accomplished the task of connecting the tablet to VGA. (the power injector was needed because the micro HDMI port didn't put out enough power to push the video).
That same setup doesn't work on the Nexus 10. I tried removing the power injector and that didn't work either. In both cases, the monitor accepts a resolution setting from the tablet, but I just get horizontal gray bars as far as the image itself. I just got in the mail a Samsung micro-HDMI to VGA adapter that is supposed to be for several of their laptops AND slates, but that didn't work either. This time, again it accepted a resolution setting, but I get a complete gray picture (no bars, just big gray box).
I'm really getting disappointed that there isn't an easy solution to this. There are way too many businesses that still only have VGA connections and since I use my tablet as a laptop replacement/for presentations/etc, it's a must have.
securitynick said:
Getting a little frustrated with this. On my Motorola Xoom (original WiFi), I had a solution that worked. It was kind of sloppy, but it did work. I had a micro-HDMI to HDMI adapter, a small power injector (HDMI Female on one side, Male on the other), and a HDMI to VGA adapter. All those connected together accomplished the task of connecting the tablet to VGA. (the power injector was needed because the micro HDMI port didn't put out enough power to push the video).
That same setup doesn't work on the Nexus 10. I tried removing the power injector and that didn't work either. In both cases, the monitor accepts a resolution setting from the tablet, but I just get horizontal gray bars as far as the image itself. I just got in the mail a Samsung micro-HDMI to VGA adapter that is supposed to be for several of their laptops AND slates, but that didn't work either. This time, again it accepted a resolution setting, but I get a complete gray picture (no bars, just big gray box).
I'm really getting disappointed that there isn't an easy solution to this. There are way too many businesses that still only have VGA connections and since I use my tablet as a laptop replacement/for presentations/etc, it's a must have.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that's the problem of the N10 hardware, I tried to connect my N10 to a HDMI TV, I get the same gray picture as you described.
Called Google support and they are sending me a replacement. Also I have severe light bleed on the lower left and rigt of the screen as well.
A little disppointed.
I purchased this connector http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00879EZJI/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00 and it worked perfectly. Was able to hookup my N10 to a VGA monitor. Monitor did not have 1920x1080 resolution and it still worked.
Sounds good. What resolution is the monitor showing?
lorloff said:
I purchased this connector (The site won't let me repost the link for some reason) and it worked perfectly. Was able to hookup my N10 to a VGA monitor. Monitor did not have 1920x1080 resolution and it still worked.
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Click to collapse
This worked!!!! Thank you lorloff for posting this. For anyone who cares the resolution scaled down to 1280 x 720. I tested on a standard computer monitor and a TV that my office uses with presentations/meeting. I am not sure why, but the TV didn't display across the entire screen (had side black bars), but it is good enough. The computer monitor took up almost the entire display, but that could have been that the native resolution was lower than the TV. Anyway, point is, this solution definitely works.
Similar issue...
Hi guys. I have a similar issue, but my nexus 10 crashes when connected to the projector. I can see the image, it works for about 10 seconds before dropping it, reconnecting, then crashes completely and restarts. I am using the same HDMI - VGA cable as mentioned on here. I thought it was the cable, and they replaced it for me, but it hasn't helped. Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts on if this is Android or the hardware causing the issue? Any help would be much appreciated as I really need to get it working or is it a case to send it back to Google? The projector is a viewsonic pjd5122 by the way, which has not given any issues before. Cheers for your help/thoughts.
Elositoingles said:
Hi guys. I have a similar issue, but my nexus 10 crashes when connected to the projector. I can see the image, it works for about 10 seconds before dropping it, reconnecting, then crashes completely and restarts. I am using the same HDMI - VGA cable as mentioned on here. I thought it was the cable, and they replaced it for me, but it hasn't helped. Has anyone else experienced this? Any thoughts on if this is Android or the hardware causing the issue? Any help would be much appreciated as I really need to get it working or is it a case to send it back to Google? The projector is a viewsonic pjd5122 by the way, which has not given any issues before. Cheers for your help/thoughts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't tried this yet but the only thing I can recommend is switching ROMs (though this may not help) (make sure you backup before you wipe)
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
securitynick said:
This worked!!!! Thank you lorloff for posting this. For anyone who cares the resolution scaled down to 1280 x 720. I tested on a standard computer monitor and a TV that my office uses with presentations/meeting. I am not sure why, but the TV didn't display across the entire screen (had side black bars), but it is good enough. The computer monitor took up almost the entire display, but that could have been that the native resolution was lower than the TV. Anyway, point is, this solution definitely works.
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Click to collapse
Hi all, I also bought the Cable Matters Active Micro HDMI to VGA Adapter as suggested by lorloff, but it does not seem to work with my Nexus 10. It's on KitKat 4.4.2.
When I plug it in, the tablet becomes slightly less responsive and the device (projector/monitor) I plug it into only gets a black screen, it's not blank, just an off black. It seems that the signal is going through and at 1920*1080 resolution, but not picture is showing. I purchased two of these adapters and both do the same. The adapters work because I have tried it with a phone and I get a mirrored image instantly, at 720p. I've tried it on 3 different types of monitors, 17 and 24 inch, and 3 different types of projectors, one of which can do resolutions beyond 1080p.
The HDMI out on the Nexus 10 works, as when I connect a micro HDMI to HDMI adapter directly into a projector I get instant mirrored output, but at 720p. I've also tried with and without additional power through the adapter and having the tablet plug in charging, but nothing helps.
I'm thinking of getting the KanaaN Micro HDMI to VGA Adapter as that seems to work for others, but then again so did this adapter... Any ideas?
Same for me with a generic HDMI to VGA.
I'm running 4.4.2 as well on my N10.
So should it be an OS issue ?
I contacted Cable Matters and their reply was:
... I am afraid that adapter has some compatibility issue with Nexus 10. ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have ordered the KanaaN Micro HDMI to VGA Adapter. We'll see how that goes.
Reply to hdmi to vga converter
Nexus10User said:
I bought a HDMI to VGA converter to be used with my Nexus 10 with projectors to give presentations. Now I connected it to my desktop monitor (via VGA), and it says "reduce resolution".
Is there a way to change the resolution? Or is this something the converter should actually do? (which I can't do, it just looks like a cable).
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is only way to change the resolution. You must get another hdmi to vga converter from Hdgenius . Maybe there is something wrong your device in quality.
When I plug it in, the tablet becomes slightly less responsive and the device (projector/monitor) I plug it into only gets a black screen, it's not blank, just an off black. It seems that the signal is going through and at 1920*1080 resolution, but not picture is showing. I purchased two of these adapters and both do the same. The adapters work because I have tried it with a phone and I get a mirrored image instantly, at 720p. I've tried it on 3 different types of monitors, 17 and 24 inch, and 3 different types of projectors, one of which can do resolutions beyond 1080p.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
fusi*n said:
I contacted Cable Matters and their reply was:
I have ordered the KanaaN Micro HDMI to VGA Adapter. We'll see how that goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any new leads? I have got the same problem using the cable matters adapter.
From the looks of it passive adapters don't properly work as it relies on the N10 being able to convert the digital HDMI signals to the analogue VGA. The Cable Matters one that was linked above is an active one and does the converting instead, which allows it to push for a higher resolution.
I already have the Cable Matters adapter, it doesn't seem to work, though. I get a black screen even after connecting the USB power chord. Any ideas?
Related
This is a bad and hardly structured review with a focus mainly on video playback. This is not a full review, and there's more things I want to test (and probably info I will post) for the future. It is also 4 AM, so don't expect any literary gymnastics.
So, I've had the (Euro) HDMI dock for a few weeks now (as well as the black leather sleeve, which is nice) but hadn't really gotten around to testing it. Primarily because I hadn't gotten around getting a mini-to-normal HDMI cable - yes the dock has a mini-HDMI output. The cable in question is commonly known as an HDMI "A<->C" cable with male ends on both sides.
Let's get the details you all know already out of the way. We're talking about the ECR-D980, more info here.
The dock itself comes packaged with nothing. No extra USB cable, no HDMI cable (or even converter plug), nothing. Keep in mind that these up the total cost of ownership for the dock quite a bit. I got the dock for about 29 euro, add about 20 euro total before you have a second SGT USB cable and a mini-to-normal HDMI cable. So that's 50 euro or about $70 US minimum cost at the time of writing, significantly more if you don't search a bit to find the cheapest deals. You don't strictly need the extra USB cable, but it becomes annoying in most setups if you don't have it - you'd be switching the cables location a lot.
The dock itself feels like a solid piece of equipment, much like the Tab itself. It features a 3.5mm audio out, mini-HDMI out, and 30-pin Samsung "PDMI" USB / power connector (the same connector on the Tab itself).
I started out testing at a friend two weeks ago, using his Sony soundsystem (several HDMI ins & outs) and his 42" high-end-4-years-ago Philips LCD. We were however completely unable to get it to work. Having no clue which component the problem was, we gave up after a bit. Note that his LCD doesn't do 1080p, but max 1080i (at time of purchase, even 1080i was rare). So I borrowed his cable, and today I tried it (with his A-C cable) in my home, on my Samsung 6-series 37" LCD that does do 1080p, without any special soundsystem. Note again that I used a converting cable, not an A-C converter plug. I know people have reported problems using those.
As soon as I plugged everything in, I immediately had display on my screen. We still don't know what the issue was at my friend's house, but keep in mind that it may be a requirement that the display device supports 1080p. The signal received by the TV was 1080p30. I think this is the maximum the device will do, as my TV does support both 1080p50 and 1080p60 as well (and I regularly use both those modes).
Immediate snags:
(1) First, the dock needs to be connected (via the USB cable) to a power, or HDMI will not work. I actually used an old HTC adapter instead of the Samsung one, that delivers 1a instead of 2a, and that worked fine. Connecting it to a computer USB port (0.5a) reportedly does not work, but I have not tested this myself (yet).
(2) Second, the Samsung USB cable you got with your Tab is really short, using an extender cable is almost certainly necessary for most situations.
(3) Third, the 3.5mm audio out does NOT work while HDMI is connected (reported by others, not tested myself)
(4) Last, the backlight will NEVER go off when connected over HDMI. Not even using the power button.
So, when you have it all connected, you will see one of two things: a really narrow output of your portrait screen, or a screen-filling output of your landscape screen. I advise everyone to put the device in landscape mode and enabling the orientation lock before connecting. Note that the HDMI dock is also a really handy standard for landscape mode!
When in the normal Android UI, you can clearly see the artifacts of upscaling. You'll see whatever happens on the Tab on the TV as well, scaled up (and not using a good resampler). The Android UI does NOT suddenly see a FullHD screen (as I expected, but some may be surprised).
However, some applications that go full-screen do see and use the FullHD resolution. I have not extensively tested this on many applications. For example, the YouTube app appears to see FullHD, but I can not be certain. The stock Samsung video player does see and use the FullHD resolution, as far as I can make out.
I have tested playback of the following videos, in the stock video player:
(1) Iron_Man_2-DivXPlusHD.mkv - 81mb, 2:30, CCV1 1920x800 23.98fps, AAC 48000Hz stereo, 4.4mbps
(2) Cowboys & Aliens - Trailer.mp4 - 174mb, 2:31, CCV1 1920x816 23.98fps, AAC 48000Hz stereo, 9.2mbps
(3) v.2009.s02e03.720p.hdtv.x264-ctu.mkv - 1118mb, 41:22, CCV1 1280x720 23.98fps, Dolby AC3 48000Hz 6ch, 3.6mbps
(4) the.mentalist.s03e12.720p.hdtv.x264-ctu.mkv - 1119mb, 41:48, CCV1 1280x720 23.98fps, Dolby AC3 48000Hz 6ch, 3.6mbps
These four videos all played fine, with audio and everything. V even had subtitles, and those worked well. However I must note that the button to disable subtitles is disabled while outputting to HDMI. Not sure what that is about. DTS is still on my to-test list, but I'll get around to that when we get the setup working on my friend's soundssystem, where I can also test whether or not the output is more than stereo or always downsampled to 2-channel.
The video output is pretty good, but not without buts.
(1) First, as stated before, the backlight on the Tab will not go off no matter what you do, and you will see one of the first frames of the video as a still on the Tab. You can however still use much of the videoplayer UI (which is suddenly slightly different: amongst other things options like brightness and scaling disappear), and that UI only appears on the Tab, NOT on the TV. Now if only I could control that UI, over Wi-Fi, with my SGS ... (might be possible through DLNA, btw, a nice test for the future)
(2) When you look closely at the image produced, you will see that the postprocessing is not quite up to par to the quality you get from CoreAVC or even ffmpeg on a laptop or HTPC or whatnot. The difference does really seem to be postprocessing though, not bad decoding or scaling.
(3) There is some shift in framespeed. Not traditional suttering you might see when the player cannot decode fast enough, though, the speed seems to be fine. I think this has to do with the fact that first the Tab has to scale 24fps to 30fps, which is probably done with some pulldown scheme, and then my TV has to scale that to 100hz, again with some pulldown scheme. I'm sure the videophiles amongst you will understand what I am talking about, even if the jargon is not correct. If you're not following, you are probably someone who wouldn't even notice it. Also note that I have all video-enhancing features on the TV itself turned off (as always). Enabling the 100hz motion interpolation mode makes the issue mostly disappear, but I really hate the "homevideo" effect you get when doing that. All in all, when watching a 40 minute show, you don't really notice it anymore after a few minutes, but if you're like me you know it's there and see it. If it were 1080p25 instead of 1080p30, the issue would probably not exist.
All in all, it does look good and works pretty well. Unfortunately, though most of these individual issues are small, together they are big enough to prevent this from being more than a casual playback device. It comes close, but not close enough to being a home-theater device. However, who knows maybe XBMC can be ported and we'll get past a number of these problems.
I won't make any claims as to whether the HDMI dock is worth the money or not. You know the price, and you have a bit of information here, and more in other reviews online. You have to decide for yourself it it's worth it. Hope this is helpful and/or interesting to someone.
For me the dock was totally worth it. The framespeed issue you describe is definitely there, but I do not notice that unless I am consciously looking for it. I have watched a lot of movies quite comfortably using the dock on Full HD TV.
And yes, if TV is not 1080p, for example just HD Ready and not Full HD, the video output is not HD at all. I think it's the same as Tab's screen: 1024x600.
"Connecting it to a computer USB port (0.5a) reportedly does not work, but I have not tested this myself (yet). "
USB from my computer (Kies drivers installed) works fine with the Dock. I have an HDMI capable computer monitor and this also works fine with the dock.
Thanks for the review!
For those who purchase movies through MediaHub, you will not be able to play back through HDMI dock to TV. http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/galaxy-tab-accessories/ECR-D980BEGSTA-reviews
GeorgijSapkin said:
For me the dock was totally worth it. The framespeed issue you describe is definitely there, but I do not notice that unless I am consciously looking for it. I have watched a lot of movies quite comfortably using the dock on Full HD TV.
And yes, if TV is not 1080p, for example just HD Ready and not Full HD, the video output is not HD at all. I think it's the same as Tab's screen: 1024x600.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried movies with DTS ? And on a surroundl soundsystem ? If so, can you share the details ?
Re: 1080p, you are saying even if the TV does not support 1080p, you do still get output ? Would mean that 1080i is not the problem on my friends' system, as we got no output at all.
(good info on this dock is hard to find )
specmac said:
"Connecting it to a computer USB port (0.5a) reportedly does not work, but I have not tested this myself (yet). "
USB from my computer (Kies drivers installed) works fine with the Dock. I have an HDMI capable computer monitor and this also works fine with the dock.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I meant using the computer as power source for HDMI. Do you get HDMI output when the USB cable is connected to a computer ? I read on some other reviews people did not get that to work.
quattr0 said:
Thanks for the review!
For those who purchase movies through MediaHub, you will not be able to play back through HDMI dock to TV. http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/galaxy-tab-accessories/ECR-D980BEGSTA-reviews
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is really silly ...
Yes, dock connected to my computer via usb and connected to my monitor via hdmi. Outputs to the computer monitor just fine with this configuration.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Tab
Dock but no audio
I have this dock but I get no audio what so ever... Have you had to do anything at all to enable it?
gsjurseth said:
I have this dock but I get no audio what so ever... Have you had to do anything at all to enable it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Worked out of the box for me, through HDMI. Haven't tried 3.5mm jack. Have heard that complaint before though.
Nice review its a bit dissapointing for me that they chose the mini HDMI standard as there is plenty of space to have included a normal size plug.
Maybe I'm just annoyed because I have HDMI cables laying around but now need to buy a mini HDMI cable
Ghostwalker9 said:
Nice review its a bit dissapointing for me that they chose the mini HDMI standard as there is plenty of space to have included a normal size plug.
Maybe I'm just annoyed because I have HDMI cables laying around but now need to buy a mini HDMI cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
100% agree
YouTube is great when you're docked. You can flip through videos and playlists on the tab while a YouTube clip continues to pay fullscreen on your TV - nice! It's a shame you can't play HD though.
I stripped the DRM off all the free movies that came with my Tab so I can play them directly through the dock. Inception looks great! You're right though, post-processing looks a little rough at times.
The dock is pretty overpriced for what you get but I'm happy with it all-in-all. If it came with a mini HDMI cable it would be perfect.
are you using a stock rom or custom rom? wondering if that will matter in regards to dock performance, i am on the rotohammer jme v4 and love how fast it is compared to the stock roms.
thanks for the notes/review!
Chainfire said:
Have you tried movies with DTS ? And on a surroundl soundsystem ? If so, can you share the details ?
Re: 1080p, you are saying even if the TV does not support 1080p, you do still get output ? Would mean that 1080i is not the problem on my friends' system, as we got no output at all.
(good info on this dock is hard to find )
I meant using the computer as power source for HDMI. Do you get HDMI output when the USB cable is connected to a computer ? I read on some other reviews people did not get that to work.
That is really silly ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My projector is 1024x768 and the dock work well with it, so 1080p is not necessary for it to work, and as a power source I use an external battery rated 500mh, so I guess a computer usb port should be able to power it.
My problem is that my projector doesn't have an audio out jack, and when the hdmi cable is connected all the audio port of the tab get disabled, INCLUDING bluetooth audio. This is why I now use this dock as an overpriced charging dock
Sent from my Galaxy Tab
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?sduid=236523&t=2611349
Just an FYI. $37 Shipped.
FYI, I got this 6 foot long Samsung sync/charge cable for only $8 (with shipping) that is a great companion for the Dock because the stock Samsung cables are way too short.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300509955254
w4rmk said:
FYI, I got this 6 foot long Samsung sync/charge cable for only $8 (with shipping) that is a great companion for the Dock because the stock Samsung cables are way too short.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300509955254
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just what I needed !
does SGT screen needs to be turned on while docked, because while streaming / watching vids i dont want to hav twin/identical display
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
erlz said:
does SGT screen needs to be turned on while docked, because while streaming / watching vids i dont want to hav twin/identical display
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As metioned in the first posting of this thread, unfortunately you cannot turn off the screen on the Tab when it's in the doc. When watching video's the first frame of the video stays visibile on the Tab the entire time. When your not watching videos the displays on the Tab and your TV are mirrored.
I buy the HDMI station dock and I find it no really good!
A HD photo is not so nice on the LCD, it ok buy when you see then at the real resolution with the camera, it's bad!
The only way that I can have good resolution is when i plug the tab into the PS3 like a hard drive annd the I see the same photos like they are and my videos arein real 720P or 1080P
I will returned it and wait for a new model or plug into my PS3
I just picked one of these up and was a bit disappointed with the video quality too. Videos looks great in HD on the Tab but jaggy and average quality on the TV - no better than a DVD really.
I bought one so I could connect it to the TV in my hotel room when I go on Holiday soon. Is it true that if you get no audio over HDMI, you can't use the line out at the same time? I was going to take some small speakers just in case the TV in the hotel didn't support audio (should be fine, think they're Samsung 32" LCD TVs).
I'm a bit surprised there's no settings you can tweak on the Tab other than PAL or NTSC to correct the overscan and advise on resolution and FPS.
Surprised about the quality, I loaded a webpage up in Xscope and could hardly read it on the TV, very poor. I genuinely thought it would be near HD. I could just take my 13.3" Laptop with HDMI out but that's 2.5KG.
At least I'll get lots of films on the Tab as there's no point putting HD ones on there if they don't look HD on the big screen. What an oxymoron that they look better on the Tab screen!
hey guys, just got my Chromecast and works perfect in my 40" tv. but when I plug it into my new 60" toshiba smart tv the screen image is there but the whole picture is pink/purple. any ideas?
Sounds like you have a bad HDMI port or TV.
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem you are having. I have a 55" Toshiba Smart Tv and I originally purchased the chromecast on the first day it went on sale, came home and found everything to be in shades of Pink/purple. I returned it thinking it was a problem with the device since I've never had any problems with HDMI ports on the TVs and just got another chromecast device today and the SAME THING HAPPENED! I've tried all ports and the chromecast does not work on any (my blu-ray and other HDMI connected devices work fine on all of them ). Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thank you.
cottageboy said:
hey guys, just got my Chromecast and works perfect in my 40" tv. but when I plug it into my new 60" toshiba smart tv the screen image is there but the whole picture is pink/purple. any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
4niner said:
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem you are having. I have a 55" Toshiba Smart Tv and I originally purchased the chromecast on the first day it went on sale, came home and found everything to be in shades of Pink/purple. I returned it thinking it was a problem with the device since I've never had any problems with HDMI ports on the TVs and just got another chromecast device today and the SAME THING HAPPENED! I've tried all ports and the chromecast does not work on any (my blu-ray and other HDMI connected devices work fine on all of them ). Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have an HDMI audio receiver you can also just plug it into an HDMI port there too. I have mine plugged into my sony 7.2 receiver. Works fine, CEC and all.
Toshiba 47L6200U - same problem
4niner said:
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem you are having. I have a 55" Toshiba Smart Tv and I originally purchased the chromecast on the first day it went on sale, came home and found everything to be in shades of Pink/purple. I returned it thinking it was a problem with the device since I've never had any problems with HDMI ports on the TVs and just got another chromecast device today and the SAME THING HAPPENED! I've tried all ports and the chromecast does not work on any (my blu-ray and other HDMI connected devices work fine on all of them ). Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also having this issue on my Toshiba Smart TV (Toshiba 47L6200U). Wanted to add that at one point I switched from USB power on the television to the wall charger, and the Chromecast went through an update during which time the progress wheel was in full color. Once it finished the picture then changed back to purple. Unfortunately I have no other devices to try to plug it into but there does appear to be a pattern with these sets.
Unfortunately I don't have a receiver and hadn't planed on getting one for this set up. I've never been able to connect the TV to the internet to perform any firmware updates so perhaps this may help? I'm really not sure. I also have seen that once it is updating - the rotating wheel is in the normal proper colors, however once it reverts back to the setup/welcome screen - it goes back to the shades of pink. I called up google and they said they've not heard of it so it seems to be a problem solely with the Toshiba XXL6200U series TV's. Have any of y'all performed the firmware updates?
gottahavit said:
If you have an HDMI audio receiver you can also just plug it into an HDMI port there too. I have mine plugged into my sony 7.2 receiver. Works fine, CEC and all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
4niner said:
Unfortunately I don't have a receiver and hadn't planed on getting one for this set up. I've never been able to connect the TV to the internet to perform any firmware updates so perhaps this may help? I'm really not sure. I also have seen that once it is updating - the rotating wheel is in the normal proper colors, however once it reverts back to the setup/welcome screen - it goes back to the shades of pink. I called up google and they said they've not heard of it so it seems to be a problem solely with the Toshiba XXL6200U series TV's. Have any of y'all performed the firmware updates?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of curiosity did you try the HDMI extender that came with your ChromeCast in case it is a connection issue?
I have the same TV, but have not received my chromecast yet. I'm wondering if it may be hdmi cec is off or on? I read up on this more and it may be the hdmi handshake that is causing the issue. It says to swap ends, try another cable etc.
gottahavit said:
Out of curiosity did you try the HDMI extender that came with your ChromeCast in case it is a connection issue?
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zires said:
I have the same TV, but have not received my chromecast yet. I'm wondering if it may be hdmi cec is off or on? I read up on this more and it may be the hdmi handshake that is causing the issue. It says to swap ends, try another cable etc.
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I tried using the extender that came with it, and also another one I had laying around the house. Neither of them worked.
I'm not really tech savvy so not sure what CEC is or how to turn it on or off. Getting frustrated trying to do the firmware update as well. I connected a USB with the firmware update on the root menu but for some reason the TV isn't recognizing the usb.
4niner said:
I tried using the extender that came with it, and also another one I had laying around the house. Neither of them worked.
I'm not really tech savvy so not sure what CEC is or how to turn it on or off. Getting frustrated trying to do the firmware update as well. I connected a USB with the firmware update on the root menu but for some reason the TV isn't recognizing the usb.
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Cec is in the TV settings. Menu (on remote ), preferences, hdmi cec control setup, turn it on and see what happens.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
Same issue
cottageboy said:
hey guys, just got my Chromecast and works perfect in my 40" tv. but when I plug it into my new 60" toshiba smart tv the screen image is there but the whole picture is pink/purple. any ideas?
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I have an old 2007 vintage Toshiba 37X3030DB. If you have the Chromecast plugged into HDMI-2 (Digital only port), select that as the input port, then power on the Chromecast, it completely works as expected. However, change back to HDMI-1, then back to HDMI2 using the Toshiba remote, you get a permanent blue screen - even though the Chromecast thinks it's working.
Placed a tech support call with Toshiba UK to see if updated firmware beyond 2.9 will help...
I have a 2006 Westinghouse (it was one of the very first 1080P TV available). I have had issues with Pink screen screen with various HDMI devices. Usually turning the TV off and back on will fix the pink screen, usually on the first try though not always.
With the Chromecast this seem to work, but not anymore. It may or may not have to do with the update to FW 13300, I can't say for sure. But sadly the pink screen is more persistent now.
My Chromecast is connected to my Pioneer receiver and I found that if s switch back and fourth with another input I can eventually get rid of the pink screen. I works best if I wait and let the input receive a signal and at time it does take me several attempts before it works.
So just something to try.
don't know if this is related, but sometimes when you have a loose connection on say a pc monitor you will get a pink screen, it could be that the connection to your guys tv isnt fitting all the way in, might want to take a closer look. it could be that the mini usb thats connected to the Chromecast is weighing down on the chromecast and making it loose and thus creating the pink screen, might wanna look closer at the connection.
im trying to cast from computer.. chromebrowser, has worked perfect earlier. but now the picture is pink.. sounds work good... the chromecast background pictures shows fine when not casting anything...
If I use the built in cast option in youtube.com it was great.. but not when casting the whole page in chromebrowser..
i have a really bad connection at home, but it has worked on that before
cowsick said:
im trying to cast from computer.. chromebrowser, has worked perfect earlier. but now the picture is pink.. sounds work good... the chromecast background pictures shows fine when not casting anything...
If I use the built in cast option in youtube.com it was great.. but not when casting the whole page in chromebrowser..
i have a really bad connection at home, but it has worked on that before
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This is my exact issue.
It isn't the HDMI port, it isn't faulty, or else every device would show the pink hue. The dongle itself isn't broken or else everything would be pink and not just tabs that are cast, like cowsick said, Youtube casts perfectly, just any other tabs.
Kinda blows, worked fine previously, an no one anywhere seems to be addressing the issue.
andrew2163 said:
This is my exact issue.
It isn't the HDMI port, it isn't faulty, or else every device would show the pink hue. The dongle itself isn't broken or else everything would be pink and not just tabs that are cast, like cowsick said, Youtube casts perfectly, just any other tabs.
Kinda blows, worked fine previously, an no one anywhere seems to be addressing the issue.
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Green, gray or magenta are often the sign of decoding "nothing" meaning the data didn't reach the destination in time.
I would look to network latency caused by network congestion between the PC and Chromecast (on a bandwidth-limited connection, or are there other network transfers going on in the background?) and to transcoding latency on the computer casting to Chromecast (how busy is the CPU?). Try reducing the resolution via the Cast extension settings.
For direct casting to Chromecast via native apps, Chromecast can buffer and negotiate connection speed as necessary. When it's getting a tab casted over, there's a constant stream of frames being generated, compressed and sent over that need to be decoded - all in reasonable sync with the PC.
For example, in the case of MPEG-2 for DVD, there are Presentation TimeStamps (PTS) and Decode TimeStamp (DTS). PTS determines when a frame should be display (ie, 0:09;13 should be displayed 9 seconds, 13 frames in) while DTS determines when the frame's data need to be retrieved and decoded. If a frame can't be retrieved by the decode time (for example, because of a disc read error) usually the player will simply hold the previous frame, so you'll see a pause. But if the player actually tries to decode the data (for example, in a video editing program), you can see a frame of mainly or solid green, gray or magenta - an empty frame caused by decoding "nothing."
RojasTKD and BurnOmatic are right that a similar effect can be seen if HDCP handshake is broken or interrupted - there's a "garbage" screen that appears until HDCP re-synchronizes, but as andres2163 and cowsick say, if that was the case it should happen for any Chromecast output, not just tab casting.
Fix: disable hardware accelaration
Disabling hardware acceleration fixes the issue.
For detailed instructions, go to:
HTML:
learnhill.com/technology/fix-pink-screen-when-casting-tabs-with-chromecast/
This was driving me.crazy for days. My receiver would play chromecast on my LG tv but when plugged directly to any hdmi port on my LG tv, nothing would happen. My LG would say starting chromecast, then nothing, no signal. I tried all Google troubleshoot recommendations and nothing. Finally, when I changed the aspect ratio of my tv to 4:3 then unplugged and plugged the chromecast back in (movie was already being casted from Netflix) it finally recognized it and I was showing the movie! It worked on all hdmi ports, after being able to cast, i then changed the aspect ratio back to just scan or 16:9 . Hope this helps somebody
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No issues with my lg 2013 led 3d model. Set to 16:9 as normal and has always worked. Wonder if it is more a model specific issue. You should post your TV model info for others to compare as it isn't really "lg TVs" exactly
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
shelby04861 said:
No issues with my lg 2013 led 3d model. Set to 16:9 as normal and has always worked. Wonder if it is more a model specific issue. You should post your TV model info for others to compare as it isn't really "lg TVs" exactly
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There have been many different TV's with this issue, especially with LG TVs. My sanyo has a similar issue, so I'm about to try this.
There have been many similar reports over on the chromcast google users forum:
https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!forum/chromecast
I just jumped on over there. A few here and there but there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason. What I am getting at is we really need model number of TV, how you have it setup, is powered by USB wall adapter or USB port on TV, extension vs no extension. If we can get model info and setup info we might be able to learn more. Even TV firmware will help. From there we might be able to find another person with the exact same TV to learn if they have the same issue or not. Just want to help of course so don't take this the wrong way. It could be something simple.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
It could be something as simple as a timing issue, especially in the case where Chromecast is powered by TV USB port.
Counter-intuitive as it may seem, HDMI prefers being plugged in to a "live" receiver for the handshake to happen. If the TV doesn't listen to HDMI while powered "off" but Chromecast still gets powered, Chromecast might not negotiate the HDMI handshake properly - and that usually requires a disconnect and reconnect to renegotiate.
IMO Google should really push wall power more. TV power is asking potential trouble if the TV powers off the USB port while flashing an update. Unless the TV specifically supports connecting a USB hard drive, I don't expect it to have any sort of predictable power output. Yes, I know USB spec says it must, but I've had numerous USB hosts with variable output, or at least that's what USB Voltage Doctor tells me...
I actually did this this weekend....
I have my TV mounted to a wall like most people and there is a pair of dual outlets on the wall that the TV plugs into...
I replaced one of the standard AC outlets with one that had a single Grounded AC and Two USB ports and now power my CCast with those.
Most folks use the TV USB because it hides the wires but for the price of $5 you can replace a outlet and get a much better USB Power source.
shelby04861 said:
I just jumped on over there. A few here and there but there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason. What I am getting at is we really need model number of TV, how you have it setup, is powered by USB wall adapter or USB port on TV, extension vs no extension. If we can get model info and setup info we might be able to learn more. Even TV firmware will help. From there we might be able to find another person with the exact same TV to learn if they have the same issue or not. Just want to help of course so don't take this the wrong way. It could be something simple.
Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
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Someone over there, I'm assuming who works at google, keeps insinuating that they only have problems with TV's that have bad EDID's.
AustinMartin said:
Someone over there, I'm assuming who works at google, keeps insinuating that they only have problems with TV's that have bad EDID's.
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Would be easy (but not free) to test with an EDID replacer like Dr. HDMI or HDMI Detective but to be honest I would expect other HDMI sources like DVRs and Blu-ray players to also have trouble if it was truly an EDID issue.
I know some very old (early days of HD) sets report they accept 1080p but don't actually display it, which is an EDID issue, but that really shouldn't be happening for anything modern.
bhiga said:
Would be easy (but not free) to test with an EDID replacer like Dr. HDMI or HDMI Detective but to be honest I would expect other HDMI sources like DVRs and Blu-ray players to also have trouble if it was truly an EDID issue.
I know some very old (early days of HD) sets report they accept 1080p but don't actually display it, which is an EDID issue, but that really shouldn't be happening for anything modern.
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Yes, you would think, but google hasn't really made too much hdmi input equipment. The major things that are failing with hdmi issues are non-1080 native TV's such as 720 plasma's, and a lot of LG problems. I think that the latter additions to the edid standard to accommodate hdtv signals might be the issue.
Of course it would be nice if Google actually listed the TV sets that they are having issues with, but at least one person listed that when they talked to google support direct, they said that the one TV wasn't supported right now.
42Lw5300 from the wall outlet and from the tv usb both work
When I first got the cc it worked flawlessly on the tv hdmi input. Then I decided to plug it into my av receiver then when I went back to the tv recently, it wasn't working. All I got was , starting chromecast and then it would switch to the LG screensaver saying no signal. Numerous hard resets nothing..then I did the change screen format thing and it worked all the way
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I did the switch my tv thing to 4:3 after I notice when the cc starts it looks like the starting chromecast font was at a lower resolution...so by switching it I thought it would recognize my cc at that a lower resolution
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pelon90005 said:
I did the switch my tv thing to 4:3 after I notice when the cc starts it looks like the starting chromecast font was at a lower resolution...so by switching it I thought it would recognize my cc at that a lower resolution
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AFAIK the Chromecast boot screen is 480p, but after that Chromecast will try to negotiate 720p or 1080p.
Aspect ratio (4:3 or 16:9) just determines how your TV handles the signal (don't stretch or anamorphic stretch) - it shouldn't change what the TV communicates.
I was also having problems with my LG television and Chromecast. Chromecast turned on via the LG's usb port but tv was pitch black. I had to pull the powercord off and plug it in 2-3 times before the tv worked. Turns out that the LG had faulty panel.. and the TV was like that from the first moment I bought it. Hooray for warranty! The tv was 2 weeks old when I had it repaired.
Hi! I'm planning on using my phone with a displaylink docking station and shadow to have something like a desktop gaming station on low budget. I couldn't figure though which displaylink product provides 4k display capabilities as well as power to the phone. I'd appreciate any tips on that as I couldn't figure it out on my own. Thanks in advance!
As i read, Mi 8 doesn't support MHL.
khanhdx said:
As i read, Mi 8 doesn't support MHL.
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That is why I chose displaylink devices.
Cypheryen said:
That is why I chose displaylink devices.
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Oh sr. I misunderstood 2 conceptions.:laugh:
I read in the document that you need USB 3 to export 4K. Mi 8 is USB 2.0.
I'm interested on a similar setup with displayLink or other screen sharing solution without latency
So I got one of these:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/2uu1qfWs
It works with it, but... It's lagging, sluggish, and slow, and LOT of latency (100-600ms(ish)).
When there is a video playing on the screen, horizontal, it's okay, because only part of the screen is getting refreshed.
But when I switch to vertical playback, it's only around 5-17 fps, depending how much of the screen have to refresh.
BUT probably only lagging, because it's 1080p.
Whe n I tried with a portable USB screen (this one : https://www.amazon.com/MIMO-TOUCH2-7-inch-Touchscreen-Monitor/dp/B0052Z996E) it was fine. But the resolution os only 720p (or less?).
So.... Still better to have a chrome cast ultra... Maybe? I didn't tried it yet, only chrome cast, and it was okay (except the audio... It was bad.)
Hellos everyone ..I want to connect my mi8 to a display to use it for e-learning with Skype app..
What extra accessories needed ? I want everything working by phone camera, mic , only the screen I want to transfer without lagging with cable of course...thanks
I bought an Elgato HD60S to be able to stream through my laptop or desktop from the phone. I connected the Usb C cable from sideport to elgato then HDMI from elgato to pc. Phone is recognized and its screen displayed in elgato's capture software. Now the issue; elgato loses image from the phone every other second or so and there's absolutely no consistency to screen capture. It also displays the gray distortation-like screen on every cutoff like old TV's used to do when the antenna wouldnt work. I looked it up and although there is not a whole lot of info on rog phone 2 regaering this issue, I read that a powered HDMI splitter would solve it, the issue being caused by HDCP. Ordered that, hooked it up, and still the same exact thing. Then, read elsewhere that the Asus Pro Dock is the only working way to stream from the phone. Ordered that, hooked it up, and still it's exactly the same. At this point I am absolutely clueless as to how to workaround this issue. Please help
FYI I am trying to stream PUBG and tried with both my laptop and desktop and multiple different cables, so there's that. Elgato doesnt mention the actual "HDCP" text until I reconnect the phone a couple times to it. Streaming works perfect with my Note 9 in the same setup.
Is it working now
Inorderd to bypass the hdcp block we need hdmi splitter
Is that working
rajuginne said:
Inorderd to bypass the hdcp block we need hdmi splitter
Is that working
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Nope. Splitter didnt work for me. However, I did find a workaround which is to use "ASUS Pro Dock" in conjuction with Elgato. The culprit here is that you have to power the Dock with its Usb C port to make it work. When connected, it might seem like its still not working but it smooths out after a minute or so. Then when it is working, you can unplug that Usb C and it should remain working fine. In the end, I was still having issues with poor audio quality (crackling/popping and slowed-down speedwise), but got a fix for that as well.
The android 10 beta is here for the device try that and see if it works
@twinklejadoo bro i faced the same issue and solved it by using online hdmi splitter
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