Hello everybody,
I've a very strange problem with my wifi: Sometimes if my Kindle Fire HD is in standby it seams to block all other devices connected on the same band as the kindle. When i Switch on the kindle then, everything goes back to normal.
If I connect my kindle to the 5GHz band and it goes to standby, all devices on the 5GHz band doesn't work after a random period of time. They are connected, but cannot even ping the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normal. When I switch on the kindle, the connection of the other devices immediately starts to work again.
If I connect my kindle to the 2,4GHz band, the same happens for the 2,4GHz devices and the 5GHz devices are working normal.
My router is a Netgear WNDR3800. At first, I thought it's a problem with the router, so I've done a factory reset on it already.
Someone else experience this behaivor and/or have a Resolution/Workaround for this?
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode - Upgrade to Firmware 1.0.0.40
eisbaer82 said:
Hello everybody,
I've a very strange problem with my wifi: Sometimes if my Kindle Fire HD is in standby it seams to block all other devices connected on the same band as the kindle. When i Switch on the kindle then, everything goes back to normal.
If I connect my kindle to the 5GHz band and it goes to standby, all devices on the 5GHz band doesn't work after a random period of time. They are connected, but cannot even ping the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normal. When I switch on the kindle, the connection of the other devices immediately starts to work again.
If I connect my kindle to the 2,4GHz band, the same happens for the 2,4GHz devices and the 5GHz devices are working normal.
My router is a Netgear WNDR3800. At first, I thought it's a problem with the router, so I've done a factory reset on it already.
Someone else experience this behaivor and/or have a Resolution/Workaround for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, this is a known Bug when running firmware older than 1.0.0.38. You need to upgrade to Firmware
Version Number 1.0.0.40, you may obtain the latest Firmware from Netgear:
http://downloadcenter.netgear.com/en/Disclaimer.aspx?redirecturl=http://netgeardownload.registria.com/single_page_registration?product[sku]=wndr3800&download_url=http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR3800/WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip
Download WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip to your desktop, extract to WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40. Inside the WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40
folder will be the latest firmware. You will then login to the Netgear WNDR3800 through a web browser. The
default address is usually http://192.168.1.1/ or http://www.routerlogin.com/ the default username is admin and
the default password is password. If you changed the password, use whatever password you setup. Once you
are logged into Genie Basic, you need to Select Advanced > Administration > Firmware Update. Then click
on Browse, selecting the file file inside WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40 ending with .img
WARNING!
When uploading firmware to the router, do not interrupt the Web browser by closing the window, clicking a link, or loading a new page. If the browser is interrupted, it could corrupt the firmware.
When the upload is complete, your router restarts. The upgrade process typically takes about 1 to 3 minutes.
If this does not solve your problem, respond back and I will help you to change the router to 802.11b/g/n only.
What is your maximum download rate of your ISP? Is it greater than 54Mbps? Usually not, so I find 802.11b/g
to be more stable and actually faster since the router Processor does less work, thus is able to pass packets
faster than 802.11n. The limit is rarely the ISP, it is usually the router that bogs down the traffic.
Hi,
thanks for your response.
My Firmware is 1.0.0.40 already... My ISP download rate is 100MBit/s, I bought the router because of this. I've never had a problem with it until the kindle joined my network
I not really sure if you understand my problem, because you talking about router processor load and turning off 802.11n. It's also hard to explain for me, because my native language is german and the problem is really stange to me (I learned network administration, so I've knowledge about networking).
So, I try to explain the problem again
- Kindle is in standby
- After a random amount of time, no other device on the same wifi band (like the kindle, 5GHz) is able to transfer data to the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normaly at that point
- When I turn on the kindle now, the problem goes away (Until it goes to standby and a random amount of time passes).
- When I turn off the wifi of the kindle the problem completly goes away, so the problem seams to be the kindle (although it should not be possible for a device to block data transfer when it is in standby, maybe it's a power-saving feature that the kindle uses and all of my other devices does not and the router cannot handle the power-saving feature correctly. But this is only a thought)
I've no problems with my download speed or something. It's "only" that sometimes the kindle starts to block all data transfer (on the same band) in my wifi network when it is in standby.
[EDIT] But I will try if turning off mixed mode helps.
Regards,
Dennis
prokennexusa said:
Yes, this is a known Bug when running firmware older than 1.0.0.38. You need to upgrade to Firmware
Version Number 1.0.0.40, you may obtain the latest Firmware from Netgear:
http://downloadcenter.netgear.com/en/Disclaimer.aspx?redirecturl=http://netgeardownload.registria.com/single_page_registration?product[sku]=wndr3800&download_url=http://www.downloads.netgear.com/files/GDC/WNDR3800/WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip
Download WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40.zip to your desktop, extract to WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40. Inside the WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40
folder will be the latest firmware. You will then login to the Netgear WNDR3800 through a web browser. The
default address is usually http://192.168.1.1/ or http://www.routerlogin.com/ the default username is admin and
the default password is password. If you changed the password, use whatever password you setup. Once you
are logged into Genie Basic, you need to Select Advanced > Administration > Firmware Update. Then click
on Browse, selecting the file file inside WNDR3800-V1.0.0.40 ending with .img
WARNING!
When uploading firmware to the router, do not interrupt the Web browser by closing the window, clicking a link, or loading a new page. If the browser is interrupted, it could corrupt the firmware.
When the upload is complete, your router restarts. The upgrade process typically takes about 1 to 3 minutes.
If this does not solve your problem, respond back and I will help you to change the router to 802.11b/g/n only.
What is your maximum download rate of your ISP? Is it greater than 54Mbps? Usually not, so I find 802.11b/g
to be more stable and actually faster since the router Processor does less work, thus is able to pass packets
faster than 802.11n. The limit is rarely the ISP, it is usually the router that bogs down the traffic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
eisbaer82 said:
Hi,
thanks for your response.
My Firmware is 1.0.0.40 already... My ISP download rate is 100MBit/s, I bought the router because of this. I've never had a problem with it until the kindle joined my network
I not really sure if you understand my problem, because you talking about router processor load and turning off 802.11n. It's also hard to explain for me, because my native language is german and the problem is really stange to me (I learned network administration, so I've knowledge about networking).
So, I try to explain the problem again
- Kindle is in standby
- After a random amount of time, no other device on the same wifi band (like the kindle, 5GHz) is able to transfer data to the router. Devices on 2,4GHz are working normaly at that point
- When I turn on the kindle now, the problem goes away (Until it goes to standby and a random amount of time passes).
- When I turn off the wifi of the kindle the problem completly goes away, so the problem seams to be the kindle (although it should not be possible for a device to block data transfer when it is in standby, maybe it's a power-saving feature that the kindle uses and all of my other devices does not and the router cannot handle the power-saving feature correctly. But this is only a thought)
I've no problems with my download speed or something. It's "only" that sometimes the kindle starts to block all data transfer (on the same band) in my wifi network when it is in standby.
[EDIT] But I will try if turning off mixed mode helps.
Regards,
Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eisbaer82,
We are Network Engineers with over 30 years of experience. I really do understand your problem, we have seen it on
several Wireless Routers when running "Mixed Mode". Factory reset never solves the problem. It is my fault for not
including more detail with the last response, sorry I was in a rush. Since you have an awesome ISP and are running
100Mbps, you are correct 802.11n is your solution. To explain the problem, when a device falls a sleep, it is suppose
to release the 802.11n signal, falling a sleep. The problem is the Kindle falls a sleep and locks the 802.11n single in
an attempt to "keep alive" the WiFi Signal. What some routers do is detect this attempt to lock the signal and then
isolates the lock or plain disconnects the signal so it does not effect other users. The Netgear freezes when the
Kindle falls asleep and the locks the signal. This is a simple explanation to a complex problem. Here are your
solutions:
1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may
not solve the issue.
3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate . Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi
when the Kindle sleeps.
Take care.
> 1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
My wife will kill me if I do this
> 2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may not solve the issue.
I see no setting in my router for this. Maybe with DD-WRT?
> 3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate .
> Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi when the Kindle sleeps.
I think this will be the best solution for me
Thank you,
Dennis
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
eisbaer82 said:
> 1. Buy a Cisco Aironet Access Point, not Linksys but Cisco. They cost about $600 USD
My wife will kill me if I do this
> 2. Change the router mode to 802.11n Only but this will only allow 802.11n users and may not solve the issue.
I see no setting in my router for this. Maybe with DD-WRT?
> 3. Go to Google Play Store, download and install Juice Defender Ultimate .
> Then setup the Power Manager to Turn Off WiFi when the Kindle sleeps.
I think this will be the best solution for me
Thank you,
Dennis
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dennis,
I completely understand, we have to keep the wife happy! :good:
DD-WRT is a Linux-based firmware for wireless routers. It is compatible
with several routers, most notably the Linksys WRT54G series (including
the WRT54GL and WRT54GS). As with similar projects, DD-WRT is a
third-party firmware designed to replace the firmware that ships
pre-installed on many commercial routers. This is done for a variety of
reasons, including the addition of features which are not typically included
in a manufacturer's router firmware. Having said all this, I would try it
since DD-WRT handles the Mixed Mode differently than the stock
Netgear Firmware. Try it!
Hi,
Having the same issue with my cheap TP-Link TL-3220 (Atheros AR9285) running OpenWRT. After some days of KFHD being connected to WLAN, the router stops accepting wireless connections. Switching from mixed mode to pure 802.11g doesn't help, but after i restart hostapd it works back again, so i guess that the problem is with it. Tried to do some debugging, but failed -- hostapd doesn't provide any info when the problem occurs, it doesn't even report about connection attempts.
To avoid it i just disable Wi-Fi when the tablet isn't used. Besides it saves battery a lot .
UPD: Just remembered that i had the same problem with parents' ZTE W300 which the same Wi-Fi chip, and the OP's Netgear WNDR3800 has some Atheros wireless chips too. Looks like KFHD has such problems with Atheros.
Netgear WNDR3800 - Bug in Mixed Mode
buggerm said:
Hi,
Having the same issue with my cheap TP-Link TL-3220 (Atheros AR9285) running OpenWRT. After some days of KFHD being connected to WLAN, the router stops accepting wireless connections. Switching from mixed mode to pure 802.11g doesn't help, but after i restart hostapd it works back again, so i guess that the problem is with it. Tried to do some debugging, but failed -- hostapd doesn't provide any info when the problem occurs, it doesn't even report about connection attempts.
To avoid it i just disable Wi-Fi when the tablet isn't used. Besides it saves battery a lot .
UPD: Just remembered that i had the same problem with parents' ZTE W300 which the same Wi-Fi chip, and the OP's Netgear WNDR3800 has some Atheros wireless chips too. Looks like KFHD has such problems with Atheros.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
buggerm,
You nailed it, the Atheros chipset has the issue, although there are some Open Source packages that are
able to solve the issue through software with different methods of "lock" and the "timing". You are also
correct that disabling the WiFi is a solution, this is why we recommended Juice Defender Ultimate. This
application automatically disabled WiFi when the tablet goes into Sleep Mode. Thank you for the feedback.
Related
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
Edit: problem may be BN NC. See last paragraph
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Intermittent Wifi Connection:
This is the issue where your Nook connects to Wifi and then after a few minutes the connection goes away. Typically the NC shows wifi as connected or perhaps connected and testing.
There are five variables that can cause intermittent wifi connections:
-your router
-wifi type 802.11b/g/n
-encrytpion
-wifi frequency 2.4ghz/5ghz
-NC ROM
-NC operating system
In many cases, this is due to 802.11n wifi. A digression: Wifi comes in manner flavors; 802.11b, the first standard; 802.11g, the second; 802.11n the latest standard. These flavors have to do with the physical wireless router.
In addition to the hardware, there are variations in encryption of the wifi signal: WEP, WPA, WPA2 with AES or TKIP. WPA2 with AES is the most secure. Look it up on Wiki for more details. And of course the
OS the NC is running.
In many cases, the NC will NOT connect reliably with 802.11n. I have a Dlink DIR-615 V2 wireless router and when set to 802.11n with WPA2 with AES, the NC connects but after a few minutes goes into a state of "testing connection". Setting the router to 802.11g only fixes the problem. An easy test is to go into Youtube and watch a long video. Most likely, half way through, you will loose the connection.
At work, we have a high end multi-access point Meru networking running unencrypted wifi 802.11n and I have this problem. So this may indicate a driver problem with the NC.
The Fix:
Go into your router's wireless. Select manual setup and find 802.11 mode or something to that effect. On my router, I have a choice of "mixed 802.11n, g, b", "802.11n only", "802.11g" only. Selecting 802.11g only with WPA2/AES fixes it for me.
Interestingly the NETGEAR WNR3500L-100NAS 802.11b/g/n seem to operate reliablely with the NC using 802.11n.
One post indicates that settting encryption to TKIP also fixes the problem.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...72&postcount=6
However, using TKIP opens up a hole for hackers
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempora...grity_Protocol
One solution on the nookboards and BN forum also suggested turning off 802.11n
http://www.nookboards.com/forum/index.php?topic=5669.0
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...-Problem-quot/m-p/770856/highlight/true#M3295
If you are having problems, the following information will help in diagnosing the problem:
Router brand and model number: eg: Dlink DIR-615
802.11 mode: b, g, n?
SSID visible?
Encryption: no or if yes: WEP, WPA, WPA2 TKIP/AES\
NC Rom: 1.0.1 or 1.1
NC OS:
I will try to update this guide periodically. Moderators: feel free to delete this thread if it is redundant.
Edit:
BN has acknowledged there is a problem with certain routers. From my own experience, there are many more routers that are incompatible with the NC. My assessment is that it's a driver in the BN. I have a Gtablet running 2.2 with no problems.
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...ssed/m-p/1030918/message-uid/1030918#U1030918
From BN Administrator: "In general, wifi issues can continue to be fixed by following the troubleshooting guides posted in the FAQ and in other posts. We *are* continuing to investigate reported wifi issues with certain routers that have had issues reported. At this point, we’ve investigated the Belkin F5D8231-4 and found an issue introduced with Android 2.2. We have a fix that will be included in the next release, but do not have a workaround for users. We are also investigating other routers (including the DLink DL- 624 and Westell 327W), but do not currently have a fix for them.
Please continue to post here if you encounter further problems and NOOK_Engineer and I will work together to investigate further."
EDIT 9/7/2011: After I updated to BN1.3 and then rooted with, wifi connects perfectly with 802.11n both at home and work. Work wifi consists of multi-point 802.11n. Note that this is with Dalingren's froyo 9/1/11 kernel with the BN 1.3 source drop.
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
I like the idea of putting it all together as it took me awhile to figure it out.
FYI, my wireless modem is:
D-Link DIR-655
On WPA/WPA2 TKIP
Interestingly, I made a setting change to set the wireless mode to only n & g modes. This stopped my nook from getting any wireless till I changed back to n,g & b. Not exactly sure what this means other than it could a router specific issue but good to keep the info in one place considering it is hard to track.
necroscopev said:
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure of this but if it works with Rooted 1.1 but not Froyo 0.6.6, most likely a Froyo issue.
bonobomidwest said:
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi chip in the NC WL1271 supports only 2.4ghz. Interestingly the kernel reports the chip as WL1273 which does support 5ghz.
I don't think the original post regarding 802.11n being an issue is correct. We have two access points running 802.11n and have no issues with the Nook Color. I have them set up to operate 802.11n at 2.5 and 5 Ghz. I connect the NC to the 2.4 GHZ radio and use the 5 GHz for my laptops. I am using a Netgear WNDR 3700s.
@jerrykur - Well that explains that. I'm trying to sprint up the learning curve as fast as i can with this wonderful device... sometimes i miss things ;-)
@Zhousibo - I suggest you grab "wifi analyzer" from the market. It's an invaluable tool for tweaking your network. For instance, it lets you see which bands are cluttered and clashing. In my neighborhood everybody (i.e. about 20+ networks) is on the default channels 1 or 6. I can literally watch as one network pops up above the noise and drops out again. In exactly the same spot in the house we have a several dB stronger signal if we move the network to a clear channel. Also bear in mind that the encryption and frequency are two totally different issues. I would vary one at a time and look at what wifi analyzer is telling you - my guess is that only adjusting frequency will affect signal strength and signal drop outs. I would also start with the simplest working setup and add or remove optiosn one at a time, watching what happens to the signal. Once you have that problem fixed, then worry about authentication issues (i seriously doubt this is the problem, i've tried all combinations of authentication on my router and they all work - just go for the most secure!)
BTW1: in wifi analyzer you can view signals as a graph in time which will let you see signal drop outs (i.e. let's you watch what is coming into the machine), combined with fpga_guy's suggested method (watching you tube - so following what is coming out of the other end of the software, so to speak), will let you nail down where the glitch is - in the network or in the machine. Similarly you could ahve two devices whatching the same or different youtube sources, if they both fail at teh same time it is a network or even further down the pipe (e.g. ISP) issue.
BTW2: if you are using VOIP, then QoS in your VOIP box could be responsible for a lot of this depending on how your wired network is structured.
BTW3: I should have explained my motivation behind these posts - I just have not had any problems with dropped connection on the NC (other than all the problems with waking in rooted ecalir) on either G or N networks. I can pretty much move around town from rememebred netweork to remembered network and almost always be connected. I'm actually extremely impressed with how well networking DOES work on this machine, especially in Frroyo. BUT my home network is pretty complex and very busy (media center PC, streaming to at least one device most of the time, multiple PC's wireless printer, wired NAS, etc) so has had a lot of fine tuning... So I'm doubly impressed at the lack of drop-outs given this deployment... hence my advice to eliminate network issues first.
Here is an update on my testing of the NC with various routers. My ipod touch, HP DV1000 laptop running Windows XP connects to every router listed without problems. This indicates either a chip or more likely an implementation problem with BN's driver to the TI wifi chip.
NC (ROM 1.1 with Auto-nooter 3.0.0) works with:
Netgear WNR3500L running 802.11n with DD-WRT WPA2/PSK
DLINk DIR615 runnign 802.11g with WPA2/PSK
Work wireless running 802.11g (router unknown)
NC does NOT work with
Sites with hidden SSID
DLINK DIR615 running 802.11n
Sites using WEP with 128bit encryption
NC connects on boot with sites using WEP 64b encryption - FC after resuming from sleep.
@bonobomidwest
My only thinking is that the NC wifi driver is not as robust with the settings (maybe it is settings, firmware, hardware, not sure).
Interestingly, I spent a bit of time away from my home network which is where I have had no problems since I made the original change (FYI, I recently upgraded from Autonooter 1.1, to Nook Froyo 0.6.7 to NF 0.6.8 and have been stable since the change). I stayed at my folks for a week as am living overseas and they have a Belkin router (can't remember model but I gave them this and was pretty good for it's time). I had issues where the wifi had problems connecting after the screen had timed out so did not use the NC as much as I wanted. I also had problems with the wifi on Galaxy S on this network even though I changed the settings.
I haven't done a scan where I am living now but it should be more than where my folks are due to living in an apartment as opposed to my folks house.
I'm at the stage where my network is not 'broke' so not actively looking to fix it but all my devices NC, Galaxy S, PS3, PSP, etc, are all working now - only the NC has had the most problems with connecting to wifi but have been resolved.
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Any new ROMs help fix WPA2 connectivity problems?
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Get the right router...
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Or maybe the NC?
jdefgts said:
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.. no doubt the right router will work with NC. But at home and at work the NC is the only device having problems. I have no luck in convincing my company to swap out 45 routers so my NC can work
waylo said:
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar issues. I can't use the internet reliably on my Nook Color or my EVO on my home router unless I'm running WPA+TKIP. I would prefer not to have my router setup this way though because of the security concerns and it not being much harder than WEP to crack.
Guess I'll just stick with WPA2+AES and look for another solution...
just to share some experience that hapenned to me:
In France we have an Internet box (wich is basically a router) that deserve 2 wireless network. One public shared with all user from the same Internet provider and one private for home.
At first my nook only saw the public one (wich is not really fast). The private one was not visible (or just flash in network tools on nook).
After some investigation i change the Wifi canal (from 10 to "automatic"). After that, no to see it and connect (if you forget the nook "special sleep policy")
soobaerodude said:
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
soobaerodude said:
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give an update after you exchange your NC. I suspect is the wifi chip drivers and not a bad NC.
fpga_guy said:
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont experience any of these problems where ever i go
i have been able to connect into every coffee shop, book store, and school campus(i go to 3 different schools) plus i can hold a wifi connection at home
ill give you my router settings because it may have something to do with it
Router brand and model number: eg: NETGEAR : unknown
802.11 mode: b,g ,n
SSID visible: yes
Encryption: no or if yes: yes WPA2
NC Rom: HC preview 4
NC OS: 3.0
and my droid x works as well with the WPA/WPA2 security
Hi folks !
Recently I started to experience some troubles using my WiFis connections. The problem is simple, the connection drops, the WiFi network disappears from all the devices, and a few seconds later it comes back.
At first I thought it was a problem with the router of my work. But then I started to experience the same things at home. Then I decided to test the WiFi without connecting my Razr i to it and it worked like a charm. Now, as soon as I connect my Razr i to a WiFi, it crashes a few seconds/minutes later and keep doing it until I disconnect my phone from the WiFi.
Did someone experience the same thing ? Have you any idea for solving the problem ?
Thanks anyway.
PS : I only use 5Ghz WiFis. I'll try with 2.4 soon but the 5Ghz compatibility was one of the reasons why I bought this phone...
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Tevac said:
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well ! Thanks for the reply.
My router that provides the two WiFis is a Cisco Linksys WRT61N.
My setup is kinda complex but works well. Got another router provided by my ISP, which is the DHCP server. This router is connected to a port of the WRT61N switch. Not to the internet port. Every connection that enters in the ISP router goes to the Linksys, and then is NATed by it. I don't think those informations are very relevant but anyway here they are. That's a complex setup but it works well (needed to do that because I have cable connection, and the cable modem/router have very limited configuration).
The devices that use my two WiFi are :
2.4Ghz : My Razr i right now.
5Ghz : Two iPads, and the HTC 8X of my girlfriend.
I made some other tests, one the Razr i there is an option for switching on or off a kind of network frequency. So instead of both enabled, I enabled only the 2.4Ghz WiFi frequency and connected my phone to my 2.4Ghz WiFi. No problems detected. Stable connection. Right now I'm at work, and everything works well in 2.4Ghz. So there is clearly a problem with the 5Ghz frequency on my Razr i.
Anyway, during those tests, I discovered something very interesting. My battery life had a huge improvement with the desactivation of the 5Ghz WiFi frequency.
Thanks for the details - especially on the 2.4/5 GHz topic.
I am also at work right now, but will check it at home and keep you posted.
WPA2
I had the same problem, I think it was triggered everytime the phone went to "sleep". It was changing the security encryption that fixed it for me. I can't remember what i had on the router as default, and I'm not at home right now to check what I'm running, but I believe it's WPA2. After the change, I had no trouble whatsoever. Hope this helps, good luck!
EDIT: nevermind what i said, i just logged into my router and remembered it wasnt the encryption type settings, but rather the wifi standard used, it used to be 802.11 b+n+g, and now i got it sitting at 802.11 b+g, which equals to 2.4 GHz. Meaning the razr has apparently a problem with the 5 GHz spectrum..
I too have a RAZRi which is connected by wi-fi at home to a Fritz!Box 7390. I noticed that when the RAZRi went into sleep mode with wi-fi connected (keep wi-fi on setting) it would have lost any internet connection on waking, requiring a disconnection/reconnection to reset. More annoyingly there was also a loss of connection (IP address) at laptops also connected to the router by w-fi on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz connections, which needed a reboot of either the PC or the router to re-establish a connection. The router GUI would show them all as remaining connected.
By using the manual setting on the router to restrict 2.4GHz connections to b+g (not b+g+n), it looks so far as though both problems are avoided, and the RAZRi can be set to use either the available 2.4GHz or 5GHz (a+n) connection on the Fritz! successfully without problems. EDIT big problem is though that disabling "n" on 2.4GHz seems to cause wi-fi throughputs to crash by more than 50% on both frequencies (which for me negates the benefit of having VDSL) - they recover if I re-enable, but then the lockups start if the phone is connected. A hobsons choice.
Thanks guys.
So I got my Chromecast from Amazon, got it hooked up and tried several times to set it up via Chrome on an iPad. It can see my AP but it gets stuck on the "Connecting to...." screen, and then eventually goes back to the code entry display screen without completing.
So I tried the Win7 app, same problem. I have a dual-band Netgear WNDR3700v2, no issues with it ever. AP isolation is off, tried with NAT off and on, etc.
Then I tried with my phone hotspot, same issue. Can see, but gets stuck on 'Connecting to .....' screen and then goes back to code entry display.
If I'm having the same issue with 2 different hotspots, should I just get a replacement, or am I missing something? I'm thinking replacement at this point.
phanboy4 said:
So I got my Chromecast from Amazon, got it hooked up and tried several times to set it up via Chrome on an iPad. It can see my AP but it gets stuck on the "Connecting to...." screen, and then eventually goes back to the code entry display screen without completing.
So I tried the Win7 app, same problem. I have a dual-band Netgear WNDR3700v2, no issues with it ever. AP isolation is off, tried with NAT off and on, etc.
Then I tried with my phone hotspot, same issue. Can see, but gets stuck on 'Connecting to .....' screen and then goes back to code entry display.
If I'm having the same issue with 2 different hotspots, should I just get a replacement, or am I missing something? I'm thinking replacement at this point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
im having a similar issue with my phones hotspot. even if it does randomly connect, it acts as though it doesnt.
Same router, same problem.
no problems connecting to a router (RT-N16, Tomato firmware)
no problems connecting to phone hotspot (Oppo Find 5, CM10.1)
phanboy4 said:
So I got my Chromecast from Amazon, got it hooked up and tried several times to set it up via Chrome on an iPad. It can see my AP but it gets stuck on the "Connecting to...." screen, and then eventually goes back to the code entry display screen without completing.
So I tried the Win7 app, same problem. I have a dual-band Netgear WNDR3700v2, no issues with it ever. AP isolation is off, tried with NAT off and on, etc.
Then I tried with my phone hotspot, same issue. Can see, but gets stuck on 'Connecting to .....' screen and then goes back to code entry display.
If I'm having the same issue with 2 different hotspots, should I just get a replacement, or am I missing something? I'm thinking replacement at this point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also had this issue initially..I have a dual-band Netgear WNDR4700....Note: Chromecaste only works on the 2.4 GHz.
// Atleast thats the case for now??
connor32 said:
Same router, same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It is working fine now. Not sure what was the problem, but I'd say that it could be related to the USB power. I am now using the external adapter.
What encryption are you guys using? I had to manually enter SSID and encryption type before I can get it to connect. My router uses WPA2/AES.
WNDR3700v2 here as well. Not sure if that's the common link, but Chromecast won't connect either. Tried several tablets/phones, many resets and changed every router setting I could find.
I can go through the setup process then the Chromecast hangs at the "Connecting to [AP name]" message. If I use another mobile device, I can see that about 50% of the time the Chromecast is actually available and functional. It works for a couple minutes then loses connection. At this point, it must be factory reset to become functional again. I must start the setup again. I think my problem is that I can't 'officially' complete the setup process.
I have tried disabling the 5 GHz band, disabling security, used the power brick, etc. I've used various TVs too, including one right next to the router.
EDIT: Finally! After a billion attempts, it successfully completed the setup process. I used the web setup (no app) with broadcast SSID enabled. I literally tried this exact setup 10x, but it worked this one time.
calypsoe36 said:
WNDR3700v2 here as well. Not sure if that's the common link, but Chromecast won't connect either. Tried several tablets/phones, many resets and changed every router setting I could find.
I can go through the setup process then the Chromecast hangs at the "Connecting to [AP name]" message. If I use another mobile device, I can see that about 50% of the time the Chromecast is actually available and functional. It works for a couple minutes then loses connection. At this point, it must be factory reset to become functional again. I must start the setup again. I think my problem is that I can't 'officially' complete the setup process.
I have tried disabling the 5 GHz band, disabling security, used the power brick, etc. I've used various TVs too, including one right next to the router.
EDIT: Finally! After a billion attempts, it successfully completed the setup process. I used the web setup (no app) with broadcast SSID enabled. I literally tried this exact setup 10x, but it worked this one time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried everything I can.
I have a dlink DGL-4500 with a DAP-1360 plugged into it in AP mode. I was able to connect it on the main router but it lost connection and I had to hard reset it. It will not connect over the AP at all. The dlink comes with a setting called wlan partition. That is disabled. I have no setting for ap isolation.
Ok, solved this one for my issue but it's router specific.
If you have a Netgear WNDR3700v2, there was a firmware upgrade 1.0.0.32 that broke wireless isolation, such that it was always enabled even if you turned isolation off in the router settings.
Unfortunately .32 also broke upgrades for me, so I had to manually reset and apply the 1.0.0.36 firmware (latest version) using this procedure: http://forum1.netgear.com/showpost.php?p=446539&postcount=39
If you read the release notes for .36 you'll see they fixed a bug relating to wireless isolation. I can confirm that fixed it for me. Again, this is specific to this particular make/model router, if yours doesn't work after turning off wireless isolation it's due to some other issue.
phanboy4 said:
Ok, solved this one for my issue but it's router specific.
If you have a Netgear WNDR3700v2, there was a firmware upgrade 1.0.0.32 that broke wireless isolation, such that it was always enabled even if you turned isolation off in the router settings.
Unfortunately .32 also broke upgrades for me, so I had to manually reset and apply the 1.0.0.36 firmware (latest version) using this procedure: http://forum1.netgear.com/showpost.php?p=446539&postcount=39
If you read the release notes for .36 you'll see they fixed a bug relating to wireless isolation. I can confirm that fixed it for me. Again, this is specific to this particular make/model router, if yours doesn't work after turning off wireless isolation it's due to some other issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I'm running the .32 firmware too and I saw the release note concerning isolation. I'll check out the steps to manually update the firmware and give it a shot.
I was able to get the Chromecast setup, but my mobile devices can only interact with it intermittently. The wireless isolation bug would be a logical culprit.
calypsoe36 said:
Interesting. I'm running the .32 firmware too and I saw the release note concerning isolation. I'll check out the steps to manually update the firmware and give it a shot.
I was able to get the Chromecast setup, but my mobile devices can only interact with it intermittently. The wireless isolation bug would be a logical culprit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Should help, just make sure to unplug/reset the Chromecast after doing the upgrade.
Chromecast connects, but Win 8 Chromecast app doesn't see device
I have already connected my chromecast to my home network (Linksys E2000). Problem I am having is that I had to use my Nexus 7 or my phone to see the wifi network. Once I fire up the Chromecast app through Windows 8, it says "Wifi needs to be turned on for the Chromecast App to work." Well, my computer is connected to the network as well as the chromecast to the same router. Why doesn't it see the app?
Can anyone help me with this?
---------- Post added at 11:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------
rester555 said:
I have already connected my chromecast to my home network (Linksys E2000). Problem I am having is that I had to use my Nexus 7 or my phone to see the wifi network. Once I fire up the Chromecast app through Windows 8, it says "Wifi needs to be turned on for the Chromecast App to work." Well, my computer is connected to the network as well as the chromecast to the same router. Why doesn't it see the app?
Can anyone help me with this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT: My computer is connected to the E2000 via ethernet hardwire
---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:08 PM ----------
rester555 said:
I have already connected my chromecast to my home network (Linksys E2000). Problem I am having is that I had to use my Nexus 7 or my phone to see the wifi network. Once I fire up the Chromecast app through Windows 8, it says "Wifi needs to be turned on for the Chromecast App to work." Well, my computer is connected to the network as well as the chromecast to the same router. Why doesn't it see the app?
Can anyone help me with this?
---------- Post added at 11:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:05 PM ----------
EDIT: My computer is connected to the E2000 via ethernet hardwire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
UPDATE: I figured out the problem. I guess it doesn't recognize devices plugged in through ethernet, the chromecast can only be seen by wireless dongles on the same router.
I can confirm for certain, chromecast will definitely not work with the dlink dap-1360 even on my network. I unplugged the AP and my chromecast connected the very second the dap-1360 was unplugged.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using XDA Premium HD app
I have a Netgear R6200. Chromecast only connects when 5Ghz is completely disabled.
D'LINK DAP-1522 AP issues
I have a D'Link DAP-1522 setup as an AP configured to WPA2-AES. When I try to connect the Chromecast it fails to connect to my network. However if I turn off all security it connects just fine. Any ideas?
Update: I was able to connect to the Chromecast by creating a Guest Zone with the following settings:
Security Mode: WPA Personal
WPA Mode: WPA Only
Cipher Type: AES
Disabled Guest Zones Client Isolation
Enabled Routing between Zones
Don't think I like this as a permanent solution but it is a work around.
Asus rt-ac87u
I just needed to disable manual DHCP Assignment. Router ASUS RT-AC87U
I bought one last night, went into one of the guest bedrooms to play around with it, in about 15 minutes got it going.
it works beautifully with the nexus 5,
the work was with debian casting the whole desktop to play native files (videos, music, etc) I had the drop my firewall rules to allow uPnP incoming connections from the chromecast, which my firewall frontend was blocking because of my ruleset, so after disabling, *BAM* -
https://plus.google.com/100566062990321750433/posts/8YrRkYFMHk1
other than that, chrome tab casting on Linux works nicely for things like youtube ..
I had issues being stuck to the connecting screen whenever i switch to a different network since i use the same device to a different house - which btw i still find trivial up until this day that the chromecast is unable to save multiple network ssid/password.
Anyway, clearing the app data or reinstalling the chromecast app from my phone helps resolve the problem. Maybe you can put it from your list of diagnostic tests.
Hi all,
I have a TP-Link TL-WDR4300 at home. My Chromecast is having issue connecting to this router. When i run through Chromecast setup, it goes fine up to the point where it asks me for password of my router. After I enter my password and click next, my TV would just say 'connecting...' and it will stuck forever. And the Chromecast setup app will say "Something went wrong. We weren't able to find your Chromecast on the network." Apparently because it wasn't able to connect to my network.
I'm pretty sure I have my password entered correctly. I tried to changed my router settings but it won't help at all.
One interesting thing is that my Chromecast used to be able to connect to my router before it was updated(which happened automatically when I connected Chromecast to my router for the last time). Although I had similar connection issues in the past, I was able to fix it by a combination of resetting Chromecast, rebooting router and changing router settings. Now, it just won't connect no matter what I do.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
rozzerhmq said:
Hi all,
I have a TP-Link TL-WDR4300 at home. My Chromecast is having issue connecting to this router. When i run through Chromecast setup, it goes fine up to the point where it asks me for password of my router. After I enter my password and click next, my TV would just say 'connecting...' and it will stuck forever. And the Chromecast setup app will say "Something went wrong. We weren't able to find your Chromecast on the network." Apparently because it wasn't able to connect to my network.
I'm pretty sure I have my password entered correctly. I tried to changed my router settings but it won't help at all.
One interesting thing is that my Chromecast used to be able to connect to my router before it was updated(which happened automatically when I connected Chromecast to my router for the last time). Although I had similar connection issues in the past, I was able to fix it by a combination of resetting Chromecast, rebooting router and changing router settings. Now, it just won't connect no matter what I do.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would reset everything and then try the setup program again if you haven't tried that already.
When you say "changing router settings", does this include channel width? Is it set to auto? Have you tried setting it to something manually, preferably 20MHz? Also what is your Network Mode set to?
mdamaged said:
When you say "changing router settings", does this include channel width? Is it set to auto? Have you tried setting it to something manually, preferably 20MHz? Also what is your Network Mode set to?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. I am using the 2.4GHz wireless only
I tried changing all these setting
Mode: abgn
Channel Width: 20mhz-40mhz
Channel: 1 - 6 - 11
rozzerhmq said:
Yes. I am using the 2.4GHz wireless only
I tried changing all these setting
Mode: abgn
Channel Width: 20mhz-40mhz
Channel: 1 - 6 - 11
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried using the HDMI extender? That can help a lot in some circumstances. It's amazing how much a TV and other electronics will interfere with WiFi signals.
rozzerhmq said:
Hi all,
I have a TP-Link TL-WDR4300 at home. My Chromecast is having issue connecting to this router. When i run through Chromecast setup, it goes fine up to the point where it asks me for password of my router. After I enter my password and click next, my TV would just say 'connecting...' and it will stuck forever. And the Chromecast setup app will say "Something went wrong. We weren't able to find your Chromecast on the network." Apparently because it wasn't able to connect to my network.
I'm pretty sure I have my password entered correctly. I tried to changed my router settings but it won't help at all.
One interesting thing is that my Chromecast used to be able to connect to my router before it was updated(which happened automatically when I connected Chromecast to my router for the last time). Although I had similar connection issues in the past, I was able to fix it by a combination of resetting Chromecast, rebooting router and changing router settings. Now, it just won't connect no matter what I do.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I experience the same problem with you
bhiga said:
Have you tried using the HDMI extender? That can help a lot in some circumstances. It's amazing how much a TV and other electronics will interfere with WiFi signals.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never had problems with my old router. So I'm pretty sure it to be a compatibility issue.
I have the same exact router (TL-WDR4300 but running dd-wrt) and have zero issues connecting my 2 chromecasts to it.
One chromecast is running PwnedCast and the other is vanilla on the most current update. The router is running both 2.4 and 5 ghz and both chromecasts are connected to the 2.4 bandwidth.
I am using the extender on both.
rozzerhmq said:
I never had problems with my old router. So I'm pretty sure it to be a compatibility issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well does the Chromecast Light blink or is it solid?
If it is solid then it is connected to the router and you have some security setting or firewall either on the router or the PC isolating it from other devices.
Typical issue is when you have mis-selected Public for your network type in Windows instead of HOME,
Public isolates the Windows machine where HOME allows Device to Device communication.
Check the firewall settings on your router and try shutting it off and see if that works. If so then turn it back on and look for other settings like Multicast filtering or IGMP and uncheck.
If the light on the CCast is Blinking then it is not connected and you need to re-run the setup.
You say other devices are seeing it so thats probably not the case.
j.a said:
I have the same exact router (TL-WDR4300 but running dd-wrt) and have zero issues connecting my 2 chromecasts to it.
One chromecast is running PwnedCast and the other is vanilla on the most current update. The router is running both 2.4 and 5 ghz and both chromecasts are connected to the 2.4 bandwidth.
I am using the extender on both.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info. I am using vendor firmware atm, will try dd-wrt next.
Asphyx said:
Well does the Chromecast Light blink or is it solid?
If it is solid then it is connected to the router and you have some security setting or firewall either on the router or the PC isolating it from other devices.
Typical issue is when you have mis-selected Public for your network type in Windows instead of HOME,
Public isolates the Windows machine where HOME allows Device to Device communication.
Check the firewall settings on your router and try shutting it off and see if that works. If so then turn it back on and look for other settings like Multicast filtering or IGMP and uncheck.
If the light on the CCast is Blinking then it is not connected and you need to re-run the setup.
You say other devices are seeing it so thats probably not the case.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update: It turns out this is not the root cause of this issue(refer to my post below), i will try dd-wrt next!
Thanks for the suggestions!
By following your advise and checking my security settings again. I was able to solve this issue by turning off VPN firewalls. I don't use any VPN thing so i thought the VPN firewalls wouldn't matter. Anyways, thank you very much and now I can enjoy Chromecast again!
However, there is one annoying thing. When casting from Chrome tabs, it won't go into full screen. There are black bars on top and bottom which isn't there if I cast from Youtube. I tried changing all the Chromecast extension options and Tv aspect ratio setting, but had no success. It would be awesome if you can offer some advice.
Thanks again!:good:
rozzerhmq said:
Thanks for the suggestions!
By following your advise and checking my security settings again. I was able to solve this issue by turning off VPN firewalls. I don't use any VPN thing so i thought the VPN firewalls wouldn't matter. Anyways, thank you very much and now I can enjoy Chromecast again!
However, there is one annoying thing. When casting from Chrome tabs, it won't go into full screen. There are black bars on top and bottom which isn't there if I cast from Youtube. I tried changing all the Chromecast extension options and Tv aspect ratio setting, but had no success. It would be awesome if you can offer some advice.
Thanks again!:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go into Options of the Googlecast ext on your Browser
Select Full screen zoom and make sure it is enabled.
But there will always be some content that doesn't format the screen properly and will give you black bars...
Asphyx said:
Go into Options of the Googlecast ext on your Browser
Select Full screen zoom and make sure it is enabled.
But there will always be some content that doesn't format the screen properly and will give you black bars...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, after all, it was too early to call it a success.
So earlier today, I wasn't able to discover Chromecast from my PC(It says something like "device missing" in Chromecast extension). However, my TV shows Chromecast is connected to my network, and the light on Chromecast is stable white. Then, I tried to reboot my router, and that fixed it. This is basically similar to the issues i had in the past where i could just fix Chromecast connection by randomly rebooting router and resetting Chromecast.
I was skeptical and decided to revert my changes on VPN firewalls. After a router reboot, Chromecast still worked!!
At this point, I don't think it's the VPN firewall settings that is causing this issue. This issue looks so random. I would try to go dd-wrt next and hopefully it will fix this issue properly.
rozzerhmq said:
Well, after all, it was too early to call it a success.
So earlier today, I wasn't able to discover Chromecast from my PC(It says something like "device missing" in Chromecast extension). However, my TV shows Chromecast is connected to my network, and the light on Chromecast is stable white. Then, I tried to reboot my router, and that fixed it. This is basically similar to the issues i had in the past where i could just fix Chromecast connection by randomly rebooting router and resetting Chromecast.
I was skeptical and decided to revert my changes on VPN firewalls. After a router reboot, Chromecast still worked!!
At this point, I don't think it's the VPN firewall settings that is causing this issue. This issue looks so random. I would try to go dd-wrt next and hopefully it will fix this issue properly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mention DD-Wrt are you using that?
Cause I notice most people having these issues seem to be using DD-WRT or Tomato and I'm starting to wonder if perhaps there is some issues with those Custom Firmwares being used.
I do know in the past before I Upgraded my router that I had problems with devices getting booted off the WiFi because I had too many devices connecting and it would seem that when a new device would connect, one would stop getting data despite the fact it said it was connected.
Now this shouldn't ever be the case with WiFi if it has an IP it should not have a limit but I am wondering if your experiencing what I was experiencing before I Upgraded....
Not suggesting you need to upgrade mind you just that what your going through sounds similar to what I went through.
When I bought the new router (LinkSys N900) the Box had this chart of Router Groups and which router was best for X number of devices.
Low end for less than 3, High end for 7+ with the last group being for 7+ and HD.
This chart went against what I believed I knew about WiFi limitations which I thought was only IP and DHCP based...
I wrote it off as pure Marketing with the intention of getting you to buy the most expensive router they had...(which I was going to do anyway LOL)
I'm starting to wonder if maybe there is something to that....Sure would explain my problems with the router that made me upgrade in the first place.
I'm having the same issues with my chromecast and a tp-link wdr4300 router on dd-wrt (latest build from 2014-02).
After either chromecast or router (wi-fi) restart I'm able to cast and chromecast is also shown in chromecast app.
But after some idling (without casting) chromecast is still connected to my wi-fi (ping responses) but I'm not able to cast anything (music, allcast etc..) anymore.
I have already tried enabling/disabling UPNP, changing wi-fi channels, etc
Doesn't look like just a wi-fi issue only, as chromecast is still connected to my wi-fi.
but still could this be related to the Atheros chipset used in the wdr4300 maybe?
Any other routers with atheros chipset running without problems?
Try installing Bonjour Browser or another mDNS browser and monitor what happens in local._googlecast._tcp
Also check router security and firewall logs to see if things are being blocked corresponding to when the mDNS broadcasts fall off.
Sent from a device with no keyboard. Please forgive typos, they may not be my own.
Seems to be good now for my setup.
I had installed a bonjour browser but couldn't see anything special.
local._googlecast._tcp was present all the time even though I couldn't cast.
I have changed the router firmware from dd-wrt (02-19-2014-r23598) to a self compiled OpenWrt (Barrier Breaker r39770).
I have been able to cast now stable for 4 days. Never had that before on dd-wrt.
nervdoc said:
Seems to be good now for my setup.
I had installed a bonjour browser but couldn't see anything special.
local._googlecast._tcp was present all the time even though I couldn't cast.
I have changed the router firmware from dd-wrt (02-19-2014-r23598) to a self compiled OpenWrt (Barrier Breaker r39770).
I have been able to cast now stable for 4 days. Never had that before on dd-wrt.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the update. Good to know that OpenWRT is working for you.
I have the same router. Don't recall having any issues on stock firmware. I'm on ddwrt now.
Did that as I plan on converting to extender when I move to the AC router soon.
I can only imagine the Chromecast didn't like something in your settings.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
"Something went wrong. We weren't able to find your chromecast on the network"
[ this trick worked for me ] .. I had the same issue.. I was trying to connect my lcd remote monitor to my windows 7 pc. In the chromecast setup, I was able to go till the page that asked for the wifi network id and pw.., and later i got the error "Something went wrong. We weren't able to find your chromecast on the network" Many tries and all failed. Later i downloaded the chromecast app in my Android 5.0 smart phone and did the settings and voila! .. it got installed in the first try. Later without factory resetting the chromecast, i reinstalled the chromecast setup in my windows 7 and it got installed without any error. Later i opened up the chrome browser installed the chromecast plugin extension and it worked well. I was able to view my page on my remote monitor. Hope it works for u too..
Since my Chromecast updated to 16664 (official) last week, I have had a bear of a time having any device see the Chromecast. Prior to the upgrade, I didn't have any issues with connectivity. Now the only way I can get the device to work is to do a reset to defaults and go through the setup procedure. The CC will generally work until the next power-up, then the same thing.
When this happens, the ChromeCast's home screen indicates it's connected to my WiFi network, however no Chromecast enabled program, including the Chromecast app on my phone, sees the device.
There have been no changes to my wireless network settings since it worked last. Given that I've not seen anyone else post about this, I must be the only one seeing the problem. Anyone?
I've seen some similar reports over at Plex but not here...
I myself am on 16664 and have no issues seeing my device.
try a Factory reset and see if reconnecting helps at all.
I've had a similar experience. My Galaxy SII and Galaxy tab 3 can see my Chromecast, but when I run the Chromecast app from my Kindle Fire HD, I get the message "No Chromecasts found on <network>". If I do a factory reset on the Chromecast, then the KFHD will find it, but once it's setup, I won't find it again. For me, the solution was to unplug my TiVo Premiere and TiVo Roamio from my network. Then the KFHD can find and cast to the Chromecast. But if either TiVo is connected to my network, the KFHD can't find the Chromecast. It's weird that this only affects the KFHD and not my other android devices.
SFDave said:
I've had a similar experience. My Galaxy SII and Galaxy tab 3 can see my Chromecast, but when I run the Chromecast app from my Kindle Fire HD, I get the message "No Chromecasts found on <network>". If I do a factory reset on the Chromecast, then the KFHD will find it, but once it's setup, I won't find it again. For me, the solution was to unplug my TiVo Premiere and TiVo Roamio from my network. Then the KFHD can find and cast to the Chromecast. But if either TiVo is connected to my network, the KFHD can't find the Chromecast. It's weird that this only affects the KFHD and not my other android devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TiVos use mDNS advertising for their services.
Recent Chromecast firmware also seems to be using mDNS as well.
Try running Bonjour Browser and see if Chromecast is visible before/after reset or reboot.
Not sure if related but it may help.
My router has 2 channels, 2.4ghz and 5ghz, the chromecast is connected to the 2.4ghz of course, the issue is when another device is also using the 2.4ghz it wont see the chromecast for some strange reason, the second I connect that device to the 5ghz network it will see it and everything will work flawlessly.
kishke said:
Not sure if related but it may help.
My router has 2 channels, 2.4ghz and 5ghz, the chromecast is connected to the 2.4ghz of course, the issue is when another device is also using the 2.4ghz it wont see the chromecast for some strange reason, the second I connect that device to the 5ghz network it will see it and everything will work flawlessly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your router has a WMM option, try toggling it - on some routers WMM implementation is broken and makes things worse when it tries to kick in and make your media streaming better.
Also, if you're streaming local content from another wireless device you may be exceeding the available bandwidth on the band - see WiFi Bandwidth and Router Considerations for diagrams on how the bandwidth usage can multiply depending on how content is being accessed.
bhiga said:
If your router has a WMM option, try toggling it - on some routers WMM implementation is broken and makes things worse when it tries to kick in and make your media streaming better.
Also, if you're streaming local content from another wireless device you may be exceeding the available bandwidth on the band - see WiFi Bandwidth and Router Considerations for diagrams on how the bandwidth usage can multiply depending on how content is being accessed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Streaming is fine (using plex with pc as dlna) it's just a weird issue that used to happen, haven't noticed it in a while because our phones always connects to the 5ghz network. WMM is on so if it happens again I'll try playing it.
Also I doubt I'm even getting close to the wireless bandwidth cap.
Thanks for your reply tho!
kishke said:
Streaming is fine (using plex with pc as dlna) it's just a weird issue that used to happen, haven't noticed it in a while because our phones always connects to the 5ghz network. WMM is on so if it happens again I'll try playing it.
Also I doubt I'm even getting close to the wireless bandwidth cap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird... Might also be a more general network thing like a rogue device with a static IP causing a collision that Chromecast doesn't gracefully recover from, or a multi-interfaced device causing some kind of loop
But yeah, since you have 5 GHz, best to use that and keep your 2.4 GHz usage to a minimum to maximize available bandwidth for Chromecast..
Let me try a few of the suggestions here. I've not had any luck using 2.4 or 5GHz bands on my network...behavior is the same. Also, my router is an ASUS router with Merlin firmware. There is a new thread I've only glanced over, but I'll try some of the things there as well:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2599515
I had to do the factory reset trick again last night so we could watch video on the Chromecast...it obviously hasn't gotten annoying to the point where I'm stopping all other activity until I get it fixed, though. Strange this only started happening after the Chromecast update, but I can no longer remember the sequence of events that go me here (chromecast update, router update, wireless AP added for better wireless coverage, etc).
I've seen similar behavior when there are just too many devices connected to the WiFi at once.
My router maxes out at around 9-10 devices...
Doesn't matter which band they are on either.
But to be sure it isn't an IP conflict I suggest setting DHCP reservations for all your regularly connecting devices to ensure they never get a different IP (especially important to do for servers like Plex) and remove that possibility from the equation.
Just to Add I believe the new 802.11AC Standards solve this problem, But you will need to buy a new router to get it.
Using a bonjour browser, I can see the entry for the Chromecast :
_googlecast._tcp.local.
Bedroom.local.:8009
/192.168.254.193
st = 0
ve = 02
md = Chromecast
ic = /setup/icon.png
id = [a very long number]
fn = Bedroom
ca = 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm running the browser that sees that from a Samsung tablet, which is also running the Chromecast setup app that says it can't find the Chromecast.
EDIT: I've tried the factory default recovery method a number of times now. I see the bonjour record go away, then come back after the setup app says I'm ready to cast. All apps can see the Chromecast at that time, then after 3 to 5 minutes, they no longer see the Chromecast. I don't see any difference in the bonjour record when it working from when it's not working.
troycarpenter said:
Using a bonjour browser, I can see the entry for the Chromecast :
I'm running the browser that sees that from a Samsung tablet, which is also running the Chromecast setup app that says it can't find the Chromecast.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a longshot....But do you have any security software that could be blocking some Apps from communicating with the Network?
It sounds an awful lot like what happens when an AntiVirus Application Monitor has denied access.
Hmm, No, I don't think so.
But I found something interesting. My laptop CAN see the Chromecast, and I can cast Chrome tabs just fine. So far it's only the Android devices that can't see the Chromecast (and at the same time the laptop can). I'm looking for my iPad (I don't use it enough to keep track of it as close as I should) to see if it sees the Chromecast or not.
troycarpenter said:
Hmm, No, I don't think so.
But I found something interesting. My laptop CAN see the Chromecast, and I can cast Chrome tabs just fine. So far it's only the Android devices that can't see the Chromecast (and at the same time the laptop can).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's really odd. Your network has only the ASUS router for wireless, no repeaters or extenders?
-= this post enhanced with bonus mobile typos =-
bhiga said:
That's really odd. Your network has only the ASUS router for wireless, no repeaters or extenders?
-= this post enhanced with bonus mobile typos =-
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do have an extender (not a wireless repeater) in place, but it didn't make any difference before the latest Chromecast update. My next step is to try removing the extender, but I don't know if the Chromecast will see the signal coming from the other side of the house (the reason the extender was put in to begin with).
troycarpenter said:
I do have an extender (not a wireless repeater) in place, but it didn't make any difference before the latest Chromecast update. My next step is to try removing the extender, but I don't know if the Chromecast will see the signal coming from the other side of the house (the reason the extender was put in to begin with).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's quite possible that the update changed something about the WiFi connection that your network simply does not like. People have noted similar "introduced issues" with HDMI before. Definitely submit a report with them if you haven't already, and request that updates NOT be forced to avoid issues like this. Being able to dismiss, postpone or even roll back an update would prevent this type of thing.
If it's not the build, I'm not sure what else it might be, unless your router has somehow quarantined your other Android devices on another band or SSID somehow.
bhiga said:
It's quite possible that the update changed something about the WiFi connection that your network simply does not like. People have noted similar "introduced issues" with HDMI before. Definitely submit a report with them if you haven't already, and request that updates NOT be forced to avoid issues like this. Being able to dismiss, postpone or even roll back an update would prevent this type of thing.
If it's not the build, I'm not sure what else it might be, unless your router has somehow quarantined your other Android devices on another band or SSID somehow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like I switched off TKIP and just went AES on that network at some time. I went back and turned on AES+TKIP and now the Chromecast shows up on my mobile devices again. I'll keep an eye out in case that theory doesn't hold out.