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This is a bad and hardly structured review with a focus mainly on video playback. This is not a full review, and there's more things I want to test (and probably info I will post) for the future. It is also 4 AM, so don't expect any literary gymnastics.
So, I've had the (Euro) HDMI dock for a few weeks now (as well as the black leather sleeve, which is nice) but hadn't really gotten around to testing it. Primarily because I hadn't gotten around getting a mini-to-normal HDMI cable - yes the dock has a mini-HDMI output. The cable in question is commonly known as an HDMI "A<->C" cable with male ends on both sides.
Let's get the details you all know already out of the way. We're talking about the ECR-D980, more info here.
The dock itself comes packaged with nothing. No extra USB cable, no HDMI cable (or even converter plug), nothing. Keep in mind that these up the total cost of ownership for the dock quite a bit. I got the dock for about 29 euro, add about 20 euro total before you have a second SGT USB cable and a mini-to-normal HDMI cable. So that's 50 euro or about $70 US minimum cost at the time of writing, significantly more if you don't search a bit to find the cheapest deals. You don't strictly need the extra USB cable, but it becomes annoying in most setups if you don't have it - you'd be switching the cables location a lot.
The dock itself feels like a solid piece of equipment, much like the Tab itself. It features a 3.5mm audio out, mini-HDMI out, and 30-pin Samsung "PDMI" USB / power connector (the same connector on the Tab itself).
I started out testing at a friend two weeks ago, using his Sony soundsystem (several HDMI ins & outs) and his 42" high-end-4-years-ago Philips LCD. We were however completely unable to get it to work. Having no clue which component the problem was, we gave up after a bit. Note that his LCD doesn't do 1080p, but max 1080i (at time of purchase, even 1080i was rare). So I borrowed his cable, and today I tried it (with his A-C cable) in my home, on my Samsung 6-series 37" LCD that does do 1080p, without any special soundsystem. Note again that I used a converting cable, not an A-C converter plug. I know people have reported problems using those.
As soon as I plugged everything in, I immediately had display on my screen. We still don't know what the issue was at my friend's house, but keep in mind that it may be a requirement that the display device supports 1080p. The signal received by the TV was 1080p30. I think this is the maximum the device will do, as my TV does support both 1080p50 and 1080p60 as well (and I regularly use both those modes).
Immediate snags:
(1) First, the dock needs to be connected (via the USB cable) to a power, or HDMI will not work. I actually used an old HTC adapter instead of the Samsung one, that delivers 1a instead of 2a, and that worked fine. Connecting it to a computer USB port (0.5a) reportedly does not work, but I have not tested this myself (yet).
(2) Second, the Samsung USB cable you got with your Tab is really short, using an extender cable is almost certainly necessary for most situations.
(3) Third, the 3.5mm audio out does NOT work while HDMI is connected (reported by others, not tested myself)
(4) Last, the backlight will NEVER go off when connected over HDMI. Not even using the power button.
So, when you have it all connected, you will see one of two things: a really narrow output of your portrait screen, or a screen-filling output of your landscape screen. I advise everyone to put the device in landscape mode and enabling the orientation lock before connecting. Note that the HDMI dock is also a really handy standard for landscape mode!
When in the normal Android UI, you can clearly see the artifacts of upscaling. You'll see whatever happens on the Tab on the TV as well, scaled up (and not using a good resampler). The Android UI does NOT suddenly see a FullHD screen (as I expected, but some may be surprised).
However, some applications that go full-screen do see and use the FullHD resolution. I have not extensively tested this on many applications. For example, the YouTube app appears to see FullHD, but I can not be certain. The stock Samsung video player does see and use the FullHD resolution, as far as I can make out.
I have tested playback of the following videos, in the stock video player:
(1) Iron_Man_2-DivXPlusHD.mkv - 81mb, 2:30, CCV1 1920x800 23.98fps, AAC 48000Hz stereo, 4.4mbps
(2) Cowboys & Aliens - Trailer.mp4 - 174mb, 2:31, CCV1 1920x816 23.98fps, AAC 48000Hz stereo, 9.2mbps
(3) v.2009.s02e03.720p.hdtv.x264-ctu.mkv - 1118mb, 41:22, CCV1 1280x720 23.98fps, Dolby AC3 48000Hz 6ch, 3.6mbps
(4) the.mentalist.s03e12.720p.hdtv.x264-ctu.mkv - 1119mb, 41:48, CCV1 1280x720 23.98fps, Dolby AC3 48000Hz 6ch, 3.6mbps
These four videos all played fine, with audio and everything. V even had subtitles, and those worked well. However I must note that the button to disable subtitles is disabled while outputting to HDMI. Not sure what that is about. DTS is still on my to-test list, but I'll get around to that when we get the setup working on my friend's soundssystem, where I can also test whether or not the output is more than stereo or always downsampled to 2-channel.
The video output is pretty good, but not without buts.
(1) First, as stated before, the backlight on the Tab will not go off no matter what you do, and you will see one of the first frames of the video as a still on the Tab. You can however still use much of the videoplayer UI (which is suddenly slightly different: amongst other things options like brightness and scaling disappear), and that UI only appears on the Tab, NOT on the TV. Now if only I could control that UI, over Wi-Fi, with my SGS ... (might be possible through DLNA, btw, a nice test for the future)
(2) When you look closely at the image produced, you will see that the postprocessing is not quite up to par to the quality you get from CoreAVC or even ffmpeg on a laptop or HTPC or whatnot. The difference does really seem to be postprocessing though, not bad decoding or scaling.
(3) There is some shift in framespeed. Not traditional suttering you might see when the player cannot decode fast enough, though, the speed seems to be fine. I think this has to do with the fact that first the Tab has to scale 24fps to 30fps, which is probably done with some pulldown scheme, and then my TV has to scale that to 100hz, again with some pulldown scheme. I'm sure the videophiles amongst you will understand what I am talking about, even if the jargon is not correct. If you're not following, you are probably someone who wouldn't even notice it. Also note that I have all video-enhancing features on the TV itself turned off (as always). Enabling the 100hz motion interpolation mode makes the issue mostly disappear, but I really hate the "homevideo" effect you get when doing that. All in all, when watching a 40 minute show, you don't really notice it anymore after a few minutes, but if you're like me you know it's there and see it. If it were 1080p25 instead of 1080p30, the issue would probably not exist.
All in all, it does look good and works pretty well. Unfortunately, though most of these individual issues are small, together they are big enough to prevent this from being more than a casual playback device. It comes close, but not close enough to being a home-theater device. However, who knows maybe XBMC can be ported and we'll get past a number of these problems.
I won't make any claims as to whether the HDMI dock is worth the money or not. You know the price, and you have a bit of information here, and more in other reviews online. You have to decide for yourself it it's worth it. Hope this is helpful and/or interesting to someone.
For me the dock was totally worth it. The framespeed issue you describe is definitely there, but I do not notice that unless I am consciously looking for it. I have watched a lot of movies quite comfortably using the dock on Full HD TV.
And yes, if TV is not 1080p, for example just HD Ready and not Full HD, the video output is not HD at all. I think it's the same as Tab's screen: 1024x600.
"Connecting it to a computer USB port (0.5a) reportedly does not work, but I have not tested this myself (yet). "
USB from my computer (Kies drivers installed) works fine with the Dock. I have an HDMI capable computer monitor and this also works fine with the dock.
Thanks for the review!
For those who purchase movies through MediaHub, you will not be able to play back through HDMI dock to TV. http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/galaxy-tab-accessories/ECR-D980BEGSTA-reviews
GeorgijSapkin said:
For me the dock was totally worth it. The framespeed issue you describe is definitely there, but I do not notice that unless I am consciously looking for it. I have watched a lot of movies quite comfortably using the dock on Full HD TV.
And yes, if TV is not 1080p, for example just HD Ready and not Full HD, the video output is not HD at all. I think it's the same as Tab's screen: 1024x600.
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Click to collapse
Have you tried movies with DTS ? And on a surroundl soundsystem ? If so, can you share the details ?
Re: 1080p, you are saying even if the TV does not support 1080p, you do still get output ? Would mean that 1080i is not the problem on my friends' system, as we got no output at all.
(good info on this dock is hard to find )
specmac said:
"Connecting it to a computer USB port (0.5a) reportedly does not work, but I have not tested this myself (yet). "
USB from my computer (Kies drivers installed) works fine with the Dock. I have an HDMI capable computer monitor and this also works fine with the dock.
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Click to collapse
I meant using the computer as power source for HDMI. Do you get HDMI output when the USB cable is connected to a computer ? I read on some other reviews people did not get that to work.
quattr0 said:
Thanks for the review!
For those who purchase movies through MediaHub, you will not be able to play back through HDMI dock to TV. http://www.samsung.com/us/mobile/galaxy-tab-accessories/ECR-D980BEGSTA-reviews
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That is really silly ...
Yes, dock connected to my computer via usb and connected to my monitor via hdmi. Outputs to the computer monitor just fine with this configuration.
Sent from Samsung Galaxy Tab
Dock but no audio
I have this dock but I get no audio what so ever... Have you had to do anything at all to enable it?
gsjurseth said:
I have this dock but I get no audio what so ever... Have you had to do anything at all to enable it?
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Worked out of the box for me, through HDMI. Haven't tried 3.5mm jack. Have heard that complaint before though.
Nice review its a bit dissapointing for me that they chose the mini HDMI standard as there is plenty of space to have included a normal size plug.
Maybe I'm just annoyed because I have HDMI cables laying around but now need to buy a mini HDMI cable
Ghostwalker9 said:
Nice review its a bit dissapointing for me that they chose the mini HDMI standard as there is plenty of space to have included a normal size plug.
Maybe I'm just annoyed because I have HDMI cables laying around but now need to buy a mini HDMI cable
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100% agree
YouTube is great when you're docked. You can flip through videos and playlists on the tab while a YouTube clip continues to pay fullscreen on your TV - nice! It's a shame you can't play HD though.
I stripped the DRM off all the free movies that came with my Tab so I can play them directly through the dock. Inception looks great! You're right though, post-processing looks a little rough at times.
The dock is pretty overpriced for what you get but I'm happy with it all-in-all. If it came with a mini HDMI cable it would be perfect.
are you using a stock rom or custom rom? wondering if that will matter in regards to dock performance, i am on the rotohammer jme v4 and love how fast it is compared to the stock roms.
thanks for the notes/review!
Chainfire said:
Have you tried movies with DTS ? And on a surroundl soundsystem ? If so, can you share the details ?
Re: 1080p, you are saying even if the TV does not support 1080p, you do still get output ? Would mean that 1080i is not the problem on my friends' system, as we got no output at all.
(good info on this dock is hard to find )
I meant using the computer as power source for HDMI. Do you get HDMI output when the USB cable is connected to a computer ? I read on some other reviews people did not get that to work.
That is really silly ...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My projector is 1024x768 and the dock work well with it, so 1080p is not necessary for it to work, and as a power source I use an external battery rated 500mh, so I guess a computer usb port should be able to power it.
My problem is that my projector doesn't have an audio out jack, and when the hdmi cable is connected all the audio port of the tab get disabled, INCLUDING bluetooth audio. This is why I now use this dock as an overpriced charging dock
Sent from my Galaxy Tab
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?sduid=236523&t=2611349
Just an FYI. $37 Shipped.
FYI, I got this 6 foot long Samsung sync/charge cable for only $8 (with shipping) that is a great companion for the Dock because the stock Samsung cables are way too short.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300509955254
w4rmk said:
FYI, I got this 6 foot long Samsung sync/charge cable for only $8 (with shipping) that is a great companion for the Dock because the stock Samsung cables are way too short.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300509955254
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Click to collapse
Just what I needed !
does SGT screen needs to be turned on while docked, because while streaming / watching vids i dont want to hav twin/identical display
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
erlz said:
does SGT screen needs to be turned on while docked, because while streaming / watching vids i dont want to hav twin/identical display
Sent from my GT-P1000 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As metioned in the first posting of this thread, unfortunately you cannot turn off the screen on the Tab when it's in the doc. When watching video's the first frame of the video stays visibile on the Tab the entire time. When your not watching videos the displays on the Tab and your TV are mirrored.
I buy the HDMI station dock and I find it no really good!
A HD photo is not so nice on the LCD, it ok buy when you see then at the real resolution with the camera, it's bad!
The only way that I can have good resolution is when i plug the tab into the PS3 like a hard drive annd the I see the same photos like they are and my videos arein real 720P or 1080P
I will returned it and wait for a new model or plug into my PS3
I just picked one of these up and was a bit disappointed with the video quality too. Videos looks great in HD on the Tab but jaggy and average quality on the TV - no better than a DVD really.
I bought one so I could connect it to the TV in my hotel room when I go on Holiday soon. Is it true that if you get no audio over HDMI, you can't use the line out at the same time? I was going to take some small speakers just in case the TV in the hotel didn't support audio (should be fine, think they're Samsung 32" LCD TVs).
I'm a bit surprised there's no settings you can tweak on the Tab other than PAL or NTSC to correct the overscan and advise on resolution and FPS.
Surprised about the quality, I loaded a webpage up in Xscope and could hardly read it on the TV, very poor. I genuinely thought it would be near HD. I could just take my 13.3" Laptop with HDMI out but that's 2.5KG.
At least I'll get lots of films on the Tab as there's no point putting HD ones on there if they don't look HD on the big screen. What an oxymoron that they look better on the Tab screen!
Hi All,
I have a T-mobile tab with an HDMI dock and I have been using it as my media center ever since the motherboard to my HTPC has crapped out. I'm currently running overcome 1.4.2 with UC/OC kernel. My tab works fine with the dock and by that I mean playing movies or streaming from the internet from apps such as "TV shows stream". However when I activate bluetooth it disrupts my viewing anywhere from 8 to 15 minutes whereby causing the video that I was watching to restart. This has happened on my previous Roto rom as well. Again, once I deactivate bluetooth, it works fine. I'm using a logitech PS3 bluetooth keyboard to surf from my couch. Even without the keyboard connected to the tab this problem still occurs. So something with the bluetooth is causing these weird restarts of my media.
Does anyone else having this problem? It is really annoying. Perhaps modifying the bluetooth script or something to that effect is needed. Any ideas anyone? Otherwise I love my tab and even more so with the use of the dock.
Are you using wifi or 3g data when you are in the cradle?
rangercaptain said:
Are you using wifi or 3g data when you are in the cradle?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on wifi. Never tried it with 3g.
Okay...so here's some more info. If I keep the logitech ps3 mediaboard keyboard active by moving the mouse or pressing the spacebar every 6 to 10 minutes or so the media continues to play. So it seems that when the keyboard goes into power save mode and disconnects it causes the media...ie: movie, show, or flash video to restart or exit. Does anyone else with an HDMI dock experience this problem? Videos play fine without interruption so long as bluetooth is disabled.
For those of you who aren't experiencing this issue, what brand/type of bluetooth keyboard are you using?
Okay, well it looks like I'm chatting with myself but oh well. Here's another update. Even with keeping the keyboard active through clicks or mouse movements streaming media will still restart after a given time. Usually around 10 minutes or so. Keep in mind that I have now found that it seems to only affect streaming media. Media that's on the tab plays fine with the only interruption being a brief image flicker when the bluetooth keyboard goes to power save mode. I would also like to reiterate that leaving bluetooth active on the tab does not cause any problem, streaming or not. The issues I experience only happen when the logitech mediaboard is on.
I'm hoping that the issue here is with the keyboard alone and not with tab's bluetooth program. To test out this theory I went ahead and purchased another bluetooth keyboard. I found a logitech dinovo mini on ebay for $62 with free shipping. If nothing else, the form factor of the dinovo mini is pretty cool and it has good reviews. Wish me luck with this new keyboard. I'll give an update when I receive and test out the device.
I use the apple mini keyboard, but not tge cradle. I might try it tomorrow. Good luck with the new one.
I got my Dinovo Mini in the mail this morning. It works flawlessly. No more restarts on my media!!! Very nice compact little unit. The only thing it is missing as far as the tab is concerned is a home button. Other than that, a purchase well worth the $62 bucks IMO.
P.S. --> If anyone knows what combo buttons you have to press to simulate a home button please let me know.
HDMI - Flickers
Muh
I have also problems with the Media-Dock and HDMI on my Flatsceen TV.
I'm currently using PDA: JMK.
(Firmware 2.2 / Kernel: 2.6.32.9 / Build: FROYO.XWJMK)
The Error:
The Handshake betwen the Galaxy Tab and the TV looks like it works well. After a couple of seconds I get a perfect picture with Sound. But after 5 seconds the picture disapers. 2 Seconds later it comes back for 1 second, and disapears again. The picture the starts to flicker ... comes, goes, comes, goes ... sometimes I see then snow for a second, then comes the picture back and disapears again ...
What I think what could be the Problem:
I think it could be a problem with HDCP.
What I tested:
I connected the Galaxy Tab with the same cable to a PC-Screen. Perfect picture, no problems!
About the TV:
I tried all HDMI-Ins. Including the one that is special for connecting a PC to the TV. I have no problems with my T-Online Media Resiver (Entertain) connected to my TV over HDMI. And I'm shure that HDCP is used with the T-Online Media Resiver.
Does any one have an Idea how to fix the Problem?
Greetings,
Heavy
I had an issue with the picture going in and out as well. For me the problem was I was low on charge and I had the dock powered by a non stock charger which only trickle charged at most so the picture would keep cutting out every time it told that I was low on battery. This doesnt come up until you get around 10% remaining. That was solved by using the stock charger. The only other time I had an issue is when the tab is not secure in the cradle which was remedied by disconnecting it and then re-inserting it back into the dock.
Hope that helps.
T-Mobile tab running latest Overcome
Sorry for posting this in this thread.
But, it would interest me if the HDMI-Dock really needs a USB-power-cable plugged into it to work?
Muh
Yes, the dock needs power to use the HDMI out . . .
My problem for shure does not be casted by power problems. Im getting more and more shure that I have a compatibility problem betwen the Tab and the Toshiba TV.
I will now search in HiFi forums for a fix, and inform you when I figured out something. May be a older firmware could fix it to . . .
Greetings,
Heavy
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
i cant understand why it needs a usb power cable for hdmi out?
is this really needed technically for it to work?
or is it just, idk to pester us?
because ipad also just has a hdmi adapter thing, where the usb cable is only optional.
sent from my galaxy tab
I dont know, but without power you will not get any signal . . . I think the dock needs the power . . .
And i can not find any help for my problem in the web. It looks like i am the only one who has this problem.
But I figured out now that the tab is using 1024i as resolution . . . Does any one know if there is a way to switch the output resolutin of the hdmi?
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
no the tab upscales to 1080p.
there are sometimes problems with tvs that arent fullhd. it has to be fulllhd and not hdready or something inbetween, otherwise there might be problems.
The dock needs a power cube to work. Without one it won't function. However you can use a non stock power supply but you'll end up running down the power, albeit more slowly. Why this is a necessity I'm not sure. I think for the majority of the time you would want to otherwise it will run down the juice pretty quickly since the screen stays on while outputting to the TV.
It is best to have a TV that is full 1080p. My 6 yr old TV is only 1080i but it still works. Others may have varying results.
It would be nice to have a standalone HDMI cable similar to the AV cable but I haven't seen anything like that yet.
T-Mobile tab running latest Overcome
Muh
In other teste of the docking i did also read 1024i, and thats exactly as what it has been identified by mx tv. My tv can do 1080d, that can not be the problem . . .
May be you can double check as what you tv identifies the signal?
Do you think it coulf be a idea to try an older firmware? Any known changes in the hdmi out in the firmware versions?
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
Ok, i know now where my problem comes from . . .
The tab realy sends 1080p, but my tv can only do 1080i. :O
Any chance to set the tab to a lower resolution for the hdmi out?
When i connect the tab to a hdmi - vga converter i will lose Audio? Right?
(the tv has a vga in)
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
VGA:
picture quality loss (like from DVI -> VGA)
no audio support
but its still better than cinch
hey guys, just got my Chromecast and works perfect in my 40" tv. but when I plug it into my new 60" toshiba smart tv the screen image is there but the whole picture is pink/purple. any ideas?
Sounds like you have a bad HDMI port or TV.
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem you are having. I have a 55" Toshiba Smart Tv and I originally purchased the chromecast on the first day it went on sale, came home and found everything to be in shades of Pink/purple. I returned it thinking it was a problem with the device since I've never had any problems with HDMI ports on the TVs and just got another chromecast device today and the SAME THING HAPPENED! I've tried all ports and the chromecast does not work on any (my blu-ray and other HDMI connected devices work fine on all of them ). Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thank you.
cottageboy said:
hey guys, just got my Chromecast and works perfect in my 40" tv. but when I plug it into my new 60" toshiba smart tv the screen image is there but the whole picture is pink/purple. any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
4niner said:
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem you are having. I have a 55" Toshiba Smart Tv and I originally purchased the chromecast on the first day it went on sale, came home and found everything to be in shades of Pink/purple. I returned it thinking it was a problem with the device since I've never had any problems with HDMI ports on the TVs and just got another chromecast device today and the SAME THING HAPPENED! I've tried all ports and the chromecast does not work on any (my blu-ray and other HDMI connected devices work fine on all of them ). Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have an HDMI audio receiver you can also just plug it into an HDMI port there too. I have mine plugged into my sony 7.2 receiver. Works fine, CEC and all.
Toshiba 47L6200U - same problem
4niner said:
Hey, I'm having the same exact problem you are having. I have a 55" Toshiba Smart Tv and I originally purchased the chromecast on the first day it went on sale, came home and found everything to be in shades of Pink/purple. I returned it thinking it was a problem with the device since I've never had any problems with HDMI ports on the TVs and just got another chromecast device today and the SAME THING HAPPENED! I've tried all ports and the chromecast does not work on any (my blu-ray and other HDMI connected devices work fine on all of them ). Please let me know if you find a solution.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am also having this issue on my Toshiba Smart TV (Toshiba 47L6200U). Wanted to add that at one point I switched from USB power on the television to the wall charger, and the Chromecast went through an update during which time the progress wheel was in full color. Once it finished the picture then changed back to purple. Unfortunately I have no other devices to try to plug it into but there does appear to be a pattern with these sets.
Unfortunately I don't have a receiver and hadn't planed on getting one for this set up. I've never been able to connect the TV to the internet to perform any firmware updates so perhaps this may help? I'm really not sure. I also have seen that once it is updating - the rotating wheel is in the normal proper colors, however once it reverts back to the setup/welcome screen - it goes back to the shades of pink. I called up google and they said they've not heard of it so it seems to be a problem solely with the Toshiba XXL6200U series TV's. Have any of y'all performed the firmware updates?
gottahavit said:
If you have an HDMI audio receiver you can also just plug it into an HDMI port there too. I have mine plugged into my sony 7.2 receiver. Works fine, CEC and all.
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Click to collapse
4niner said:
Unfortunately I don't have a receiver and hadn't planed on getting one for this set up. I've never been able to connect the TV to the internet to perform any firmware updates so perhaps this may help? I'm really not sure. I also have seen that once it is updating - the rotating wheel is in the normal proper colors, however once it reverts back to the setup/welcome screen - it goes back to the shades of pink. I called up google and they said they've not heard of it so it seems to be a problem solely with the Toshiba XXL6200U series TV's. Have any of y'all performed the firmware updates?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Out of curiosity did you try the HDMI extender that came with your ChromeCast in case it is a connection issue?
I have the same TV, but have not received my chromecast yet. I'm wondering if it may be hdmi cec is off or on? I read up on this more and it may be the hdmi handshake that is causing the issue. It says to swap ends, try another cable etc.
gottahavit said:
Out of curiosity did you try the HDMI extender that came with your ChromeCast in case it is a connection issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
zires said:
I have the same TV, but have not received my chromecast yet. I'm wondering if it may be hdmi cec is off or on? I read up on this more and it may be the hdmi handshake that is causing the issue. It says to swap ends, try another cable etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried using the extender that came with it, and also another one I had laying around the house. Neither of them worked.
I'm not really tech savvy so not sure what CEC is or how to turn it on or off. Getting frustrated trying to do the firmware update as well. I connected a USB with the firmware update on the root menu but for some reason the TV isn't recognizing the usb.
4niner said:
I tried using the extender that came with it, and also another one I had laying around the house. Neither of them worked.
I'm not really tech savvy so not sure what CEC is or how to turn it on or off. Getting frustrated trying to do the firmware update as well. I connected a USB with the firmware update on the root menu but for some reason the TV isn't recognizing the usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Cec is in the TV settings. Menu (on remote ), preferences, hdmi cec control setup, turn it on and see what happens.
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 4
Same issue
cottageboy said:
hey guys, just got my Chromecast and works perfect in my 40" tv. but when I plug it into my new 60" toshiba smart tv the screen image is there but the whole picture is pink/purple. any ideas?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an old 2007 vintage Toshiba 37X3030DB. If you have the Chromecast plugged into HDMI-2 (Digital only port), select that as the input port, then power on the Chromecast, it completely works as expected. However, change back to HDMI-1, then back to HDMI2 using the Toshiba remote, you get a permanent blue screen - even though the Chromecast thinks it's working.
Placed a tech support call with Toshiba UK to see if updated firmware beyond 2.9 will help...
I have a 2006 Westinghouse (it was one of the very first 1080P TV available). I have had issues with Pink screen screen with various HDMI devices. Usually turning the TV off and back on will fix the pink screen, usually on the first try though not always.
With the Chromecast this seem to work, but not anymore. It may or may not have to do with the update to FW 13300, I can't say for sure. But sadly the pink screen is more persistent now.
My Chromecast is connected to my Pioneer receiver and I found that if s switch back and fourth with another input I can eventually get rid of the pink screen. I works best if I wait and let the input receive a signal and at time it does take me several attempts before it works.
So just something to try.
don't know if this is related, but sometimes when you have a loose connection on say a pc monitor you will get a pink screen, it could be that the connection to your guys tv isnt fitting all the way in, might want to take a closer look. it could be that the mini usb thats connected to the Chromecast is weighing down on the chromecast and making it loose and thus creating the pink screen, might wanna look closer at the connection.
im trying to cast from computer.. chromebrowser, has worked perfect earlier. but now the picture is pink.. sounds work good... the chromecast background pictures shows fine when not casting anything...
If I use the built in cast option in youtube.com it was great.. but not when casting the whole page in chromebrowser..
i have a really bad connection at home, but it has worked on that before
cowsick said:
im trying to cast from computer.. chromebrowser, has worked perfect earlier. but now the picture is pink.. sounds work good... the chromecast background pictures shows fine when not casting anything...
If I use the built in cast option in youtube.com it was great.. but not when casting the whole page in chromebrowser..
i have a really bad connection at home, but it has worked on that before
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This is my exact issue.
It isn't the HDMI port, it isn't faulty, or else every device would show the pink hue. The dongle itself isn't broken or else everything would be pink and not just tabs that are cast, like cowsick said, Youtube casts perfectly, just any other tabs.
Kinda blows, worked fine previously, an no one anywhere seems to be addressing the issue.
andrew2163 said:
This is my exact issue.
It isn't the HDMI port, it isn't faulty, or else every device would show the pink hue. The dongle itself isn't broken or else everything would be pink and not just tabs that are cast, like cowsick said, Youtube casts perfectly, just any other tabs.
Kinda blows, worked fine previously, an no one anywhere seems to be addressing the issue.
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Green, gray or magenta are often the sign of decoding "nothing" meaning the data didn't reach the destination in time.
I would look to network latency caused by network congestion between the PC and Chromecast (on a bandwidth-limited connection, or are there other network transfers going on in the background?) and to transcoding latency on the computer casting to Chromecast (how busy is the CPU?). Try reducing the resolution via the Cast extension settings.
For direct casting to Chromecast via native apps, Chromecast can buffer and negotiate connection speed as necessary. When it's getting a tab casted over, there's a constant stream of frames being generated, compressed and sent over that need to be decoded - all in reasonable sync with the PC.
For example, in the case of MPEG-2 for DVD, there are Presentation TimeStamps (PTS) and Decode TimeStamp (DTS). PTS determines when a frame should be display (ie, 0:09;13 should be displayed 9 seconds, 13 frames in) while DTS determines when the frame's data need to be retrieved and decoded. If a frame can't be retrieved by the decode time (for example, because of a disc read error) usually the player will simply hold the previous frame, so you'll see a pause. But if the player actually tries to decode the data (for example, in a video editing program), you can see a frame of mainly or solid green, gray or magenta - an empty frame caused by decoding "nothing."
RojasTKD and BurnOmatic are right that a similar effect can be seen if HDCP handshake is broken or interrupted - there's a "garbage" screen that appears until HDCP re-synchronizes, but as andres2163 and cowsick say, if that was the case it should happen for any Chromecast output, not just tab casting.
Fix: disable hardware accelaration
Disabling hardware acceleration fixes the issue.
For detailed instructions, go to:
HTML:
learnhill.com/technology/fix-pink-screen-when-casting-tabs-with-chromecast/
I have recently bought a chromecast for my old old samsung le32r51b. it does have a HDMI input, so i figured it should work. But no matter what i do, i cannot get the chromecast to display anything. All it shows on my tv is "No Signal", which is exactly the same wether the Chromecast is in the HDMI input or not.
This is despite the TV detecting something is set in the HDMI input (i can choose it under sources of input), so it knows it is there, but doesnt show anything, at all.
I have tried to reset the chromecast.
I have made sure it gets power and blinks white as it should.
I have tried to power it with USB and regular power supply.
I have tried to use the HDMI extender cable.
I have tried to first set up the chromecast (powering it) and then setting it into my TV.
Nothing worked.
AFAIK it is sending and working properly with my smartphone, so i think my TV isnt showing what it is recieving?
I dont know if i can test this on my PC or stationary PC? i have tried connecting my chromecast to both, to make sure it was working properly, but they dont recieve any signal.
i have a Netgear Trek PR2000 for router. i cast from my iPhone 5 iOS 8.0.2
PC and laptops don't have HDMI IN but only OUT...probably a defective chromecast...does ur tv display HDMI from other inputs ??
Have you tried a different HDMI port?
"r" is the model year code, in alphabetical order. Mine, from 2010, is Le32c650. When did you buy yours? In the nineties, or in the future?
In the first case i can't believe that there was hdmi, and if, these issues are age related. Probably only Displays with Hdmi 1.4 up supported. That was the standard, when Hdmi, BluRay and FullHd really went off.
lecorbusier said:
"r" is the model year code, in alphabetical order. Mine, from 2010, is Le32c650. When did you buy yours? In the nineties, or in the future?
In the first case i can't believe that there was hdmi, and if, these issues are age related. Probably only Displays with Hdmi 1.4 up supported. That was the standard, when Hdmi, BluRay and FullHd really went off.
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I ve got the same problem my samsung LE32R51B(Old one ~2003), can t cast from chromecast gen1 and gen2, i can ear sound but no image.... The problem maybe on the hdmi version early 1.3.
I am looking about answer from the forum https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/chromecast/9QPojuA3lSU;context-place=forum/chromecast. But until now without solution.
Maybe if i can update my samsung LE32R51B. but i think it will be dificult to do that. try to the web support from samsung but there is no firmware availabe or way to do it
Solution from google item 6:
"If you saw your Chromecast's loading screen ("Chromecast" with a spinning Chrome logo) but the home screen is black, you could be experiencing an HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) with your TV. This issue is easily fixed by rebooting your TV. Turn your TV off, unplug it, turn everything back on and try again."
https://support.google.com/chromeca...36?hl=en&ref_topic=3447927#ts=3090411,3222434
I dont know how to reboot, but i ve turn the tv Off and unplug from the wall. and still not working.
With my newer tv, also from Samsung, it work perfectly.
HDCP issue away....:
http://www.howtogeek.com/208917/htg-explains-how-hdcp-breaks-your-hdtv-and-how-to-fix-it/
Hello Everyone,
First post here ! I've been reading a lot of very interesting things around here but I find myself stuck, hence this new thread (no ****, sherlock). I've been looking around on Google and here but couldn't really find what I was looking for so here I am.
First of all, a bit of context so that you get what I'm trying to achieve. I have a very old computer that I use for gaming. I'm not a hardcore gamers looking to play in 4K 360FPS and not part of the PC Master race by any means. With that said, I'm still looking at 1080p 60fps as my goal. And amazingly enough, my old PC allows me to do that. In fact, despite its age, my PC runs fairly well. So well that I don't feel the need to spend money to change it (plus money is tight). So, playing on my PC is actually great, can't complain there. However, I also enjoy playing in the living room. I actually play more with a controller in "console" mode than sitting at my desk. If my PC was close to the TV, the problem would be easily solved. As it's not the case I have to rely on other solutions.
I have a nvidia shield TV and tried Gamestream and Steam Link. Both are unfortunately dependent on my local network quality. Considering I'm using powerlines to connect my PC to the router, the quality is sometime unstable which doesn't meet my requirements. As stated previously, my PC is OLD and I don't think it's powerful enough to run and stream the game with a decent output either. So old hardware and unstable local network = bad experience in game streaming. And this is where I'm trying to achieve the contrary then what everyone is doing : people are streaming there games to their living room, I plan do the opposite.
I have a Nexus 7 sitting in a drawer somewhere that I don't use anymore. I was thinking of the following setup :
- Move my computer to the living room and plug it to the TV --> enjoy good gaming performance right in the leaving room
- Use my Nexus 7 in my office using remote desktop app --> less heavy than gaming, I should be able to work on Word, Excel, browse the web. Basically, use my PC for computing stuff via remote desktop with little to no delay.
- My office would actually look cleaner as well with a very minimalistic setup ^^
Problem :
- Is there a way to connect the Nexus 7 to a monitor using HDMI;
- Keep the Nexus 7 charged;
- And connect a keyboard and mouse to the Nexus via USB ? Or BT is the way to go ?
- Could this be achieved more easily with a Chromecast ? If yes, how should i proceed ?
- Would using the computer for everything else than gaming be OK in that configuration ?
It looks like a fun project to try. However, if it proves to be impossible or if you think the performance would be too poor to be usable, than I'll think about building another cheap PC (I have an old I5 760 lying around) : 1 for gaming and 1 for office stuff.
Is the Nexus 7 the 2012 or 2013 variety? From what I can find, the 2012 does NOT have a slimport USB but the 2013 DOES. In which case, buying the right cable should let you connect it directly to a monitor.
If you have the 2012 version... I can't give a true recommendation since I've never tried this, but if you do end up going the chromecast-attached-to-a-monitor/tv route, I would use Chrome to cast the desktop (apparently you can do this) to the chromecast instead of casting from your tablet. Meaning, don't cast your remote desktop from the tablet to the TV, use the tablet to remotely cast your desktop to the chromecast. Hopefully that's clear. The amount of lag from casting a remote desktop would probably make it unusable.
Hello,
I have the 2013 model so yes, with the right adapter I should be able to connect it to a monitor. Now There is still the issue of using a KB and mouse with it while keeping the tablet charged (the battery drains quite fast when casting). Maybe that's too much to handle for a tablet ^^
asmalldharma said:
Is the Nexus 7 the 2012 or 2013 variety? From what I can find, the 2012 does NOT have a slimport USB but the 2013 DOES. In which case, buying the right cable should let you connect it directly to a monitor.
If you have the 2012 version... I can't give a true recommendation since I've never tried this, but if you do end up going the chromecast-attached-to-a-monitor/tv route, I would use Chrome to cast the desktop (apparently you can do this) to the chromecast instead of casting from your tablet. Meaning, don't cast your remote desktop from the tablet to the TV, use the tablet to remotely cast your desktop to the chromecast. Hopefully that's clear. The amount of lag from casting a remote desktop would probably make it unusable.
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Torontonian22 said:
Hello,
I have the 2013 model so yes, with the right adapter I should be able to connect it to a monitor. Now There is still the issue of using a KB and mouse with it while keeping the tablet charged (the battery drains quite fast when casting). Maybe that's too much to handle for a tablet ^^
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Click to collapse
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16834989578
Your tablet should have wireless charging, so maybe a slimport cable, wireless charger, and Bluetooth keyboard and mouse would work?
Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
Your tablet should have wireless charging, so maybe a slimport cable, wireless charger, and Bluetooth keyboard and mouse would work?
Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
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Looks like I learned something today ! Didn't even know they made a dedicated dock for the Nexus 7 tablet ! looks this little device could actually help me solve my problem. I'll look into it in more depths.
I actually use wireless charging but can't actually put it on my current tablet stand (or else it looks messy as hell)
Thanks for the great tips !