Database Develop

Poor man's desk stand

Hi Folks,
may I introduce you poor man's desk stand:
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This construction is open source. Feel free to use and improve it as you like The only constriction is, you have to post it (photos) on this thread, if you rebuild and improve my poor man's desk stand.

yet another nice idea
DN41

I love these I always make one when someone suggests one, I've got like six littering my desk

Push this thread

haha sound tha like mate just wantz painting or graffn up

that's awesome... no charging thoug... but still... at that price...

try this....
PS: Its not me in the video !!

Cool idea I think a lot of people became poor cause of the expensiveness of the HD2

GoGo Stand
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.

Lord60 said:
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome for just $5

Great job dude,
I have in my mind something like this, could you please post the measssurements of the base of your coarton dock?
I'm looking for an angled micro usb data cable so I can attach it to the dock and charge it at the same time, also I think I can get it covered with FIBERGLASS and then paintwith some glossy black spry paint..
That's what I have in mind, just need to start with the meassurements.
Thanks for all!

Lord60 said:
Saw this thread and just had to tell you about my friend's site that addresses this very thing. His nick is Envador, and he's become very well known for his computer case mods. Aside from that, he came up with an idea for a phone/stand and he calls it the GoGoStand. you can check them out at
http://www.gogostand.com/
They fit in your wallet and are literally the size of a credit card.
I have 4 of them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i saw this on this on the interweb around last summer. it was not this nice, the guy had posted how to make this yourself with a template. i made one from the side of a milk jug. it worked ok. i since bought the EB with kickstand so i tossed it. i dont always use the EB so i placed an order for these things. thanks for throwing this thing out for us.

Wire stand variation allowing charging & headphones
Hi all. I decided to make a version of the paperclip desk stand that would allow me to keep the charger plugged in and listen to headphones. You will need:
- 1 plastic coated wire clothes hanger OR ~ 60 cm of coated wire - not too heavy gauge or it will be hard to bend.
- Pliers
- Cloth to grip wire with to avoid damage from pliers
- Paper to put template on
- A ruler and pen
Method: Rule a 29cm line on the paper. Starting at the left hand end, mark the following positions on the line - 6.5cm, 11.5cm, 14.5cm, 19.5cm and 28.5cm. Hold the left hand end of the wire up against the line and transfer the marks to the wire, including the 29cm end which is halfway. Turn the wire, keeping the 29cm mark in line with the end of the ruled line and transfer the marks from right back to left on the remaining ~30cm of wire. Use the pliers to trim the excess wire off the end of the wire. Now, starting in the middle of the wire, bend the wire ~75-90 degrees at the 28.5cm marks - there should be about a cm of wire between the bends. Next, bend the wire into a hairpin bend at the 19.5cm marks. Then bend the wire ~85-90 degrees at the 14.5cm marks. This makes two 5cm "legs" at the back of the stand. Bend the wire ~85-90 degrees back down at the 11.5cm marks. Then make hairpin bends at the 6.5cm marks. Using the cloth and pliers, grip the 4 "hairpins" and squeeze the wires as close together as you can get them. Last, grip the short front ends of the wire and bend them outwards to avoid scratching the phone. Voila - a stand that can hold your HD2 while it's charging (pretend my old iPaq in the pic is the HD2 I used to take the photos )
Note: it isn't super stable, but it isn't intended to be.
Note 2: the other stand is "one I prepared earlier" from an over-the-door hanger. More stable, but doesn't have room for the charging cable.
My new hobby - creative accessories for the HD2

"Home-made" Smart Case.

I've managed to get hold of a bunch of flip cases that "should" fit the Nexus 7.
Going to attempt to modify it by installing a magnet to re-create the "smart case" idea, but most likely add a few other features like a holder for a stylus, or a channel to run a USB OTG cable inside of the case. I'll post some pictures when I put one together.
Anyone else making their own?

Image and DIY Video of Smart Case in Action
TheHEFTA said:
I've managed to get hold of a bunch of flip cases that "should" fit the Nexus 7.
Going to attempt to modify it by installing a magnet to re-create the "smart case" idea, but most likely add a few other features like a holder for a stylus, or a channel to run a USB OTG cable inside of the case. I'll post some pictures when I put one together.
Anyone else making their own?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had no trouble making my own Smart-case. Luckily the way the case was designed I was able to make the magnet flush with the case. Here is a picture.
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I also put together a video showing the case in action.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyR3u12a7LA&hd=1

I tried making my own case but the problem I have is that once I find a magnet strong enough to activate the "Sleep/Wake" function on the front it is also strong enough to put it to sleep when I have the cover folded to the back. I have watched a bunch of video reviews of the numerous cases with the "Smart" function and they never fold the cover to the back to see if it activates the function while you're holding it in that manner.

live4nyy said:
I tried making my own case but the problem I have is that once I find a magnet strong enough to activate the "Sleep/Wake" function on the front it is also strong enough to put it to sleep when I have the cover folded to the back. I have watched a bunch of video reviews of the numerous cases with the "Smart" function and they never fold the cover to the back to see if it activates the function while you're holding it in that manner.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will send you a video tomorrow of it when flipped back. The answer is that it does not turn the screen off when folded back. However it does not fold flush due to the design of the case. kind of a quirk and slightly awkward to hold.

sleeplessninja said:
I will send you a video tomorrow of it when flipped back. The answer is that it does not turn the screen off when folded back. However it does not fold flush due to the design of the case. kind of a quirk and slightly awkward to hold.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Upon further research I have found that the cases online probably use some sort of "shield" that deflects the magnetic field, such as iron, (shim)steel, or muMetal.
I'm curious, where did you acquire the magnet you're using? I have tried all kinds of magnets around the house and even bought some from a craft store with varying strengths. And it would either not be strong enough or too strong (when using with the case I have).

live4nyy said:
Upon further research I have found that the cases online probably use some sort of "shield" that deflects the magnetic field, such as iron, (shim)steel, or muMetal.
I'm curious, where did you acquire the magnet you're using? I have tried all kinds of magnets around the house and even bought some from a craft store with varying strengths. And it would either not be strong enough or too strong (when using with the case I have).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cut it out of a stuffed animal fridge magnet. The poor moose didn't see that one coming. I also see these magnets in the magnetized clips you can hang things off the fridge. If you live near a craft store like michaels or jo ann fabrics you could bring yoru device and try all their magnets their :laugh: . But I also had trouble with most typical fridge magnets

sleeplessninja said:
I cut it out of a stuffed animal fridge magnet. The poor moose didn't see that one coming. I also see these magnets in the magnetized clips you can hang things off the fridge. If you live near a craft store like michaels or jo ann fabrics you could bring yoru device and try all their magnets their :laugh: . But I also had trouble with most typical fridge magnets
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, I tried that at the local Hobby Lobby with no such luck. It seems other people are reporting the problem with cases bought online here and here. I'm just going to see if I can find some steel or something to shield it. Thanks for the help.
Also, I wanted to thank you for that video on Youtube about the OTG cable and PS3 controller working "out of the box". I ordered the same cable as soon as I saw that. Can't wait to play Dead Trigger with a controller.

Try both sides the the magnet. Theoretically it shouldn't matter but I've had different results with different sides of a magnet.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

Have a small Neodymium magnet barley strong enough to work through the front of the case, then mounted on the inside of the case in the cover. So with the case folded all the way back it is not strong enough to activate the sensor.

I really want to try to make something out of fabric and cardboard. I'm such a ***** when it comes to my devices. Even with cases I always sit them on napkins and coasters haha.
Plus I want something thin that just protects the back and has a thin flap. Nothing fancy just something that doesn't add 3x the thickness of the N7.
Maybe superglue a flap on haha. Stupid Apple and their awesome smartcase. I'm also concerned about a case hindering access to the buttons. They are already a pain to access when laying on a flat surface.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium

DIY - How to modify eBay dock to work with N7 + Slim Cases

So I bought THIS DOCK off eBay, and if you're looking for one, this is the one to get since it's a US seller who is only charging $1 more for it than the one you have to wait 2+ weeks for coming out of China:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160860164735?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
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Images above borrowed from the eBay auction page, they are not my own images
If you can't find this one months or years after it disappears from eBay, you're looking for something similar to a Charging & Syncing Docking Station Dock Cradle for ASUS Google Nexus 7. All in all, it's a good dock, I felt it leaned a little forward prior to installing a case on the N7, but some people may want that for their uses - I personally have it mounted on my charging valet in my bedroom, so it is a little above my waist when looking at it on the dock, in which case I'd like it to lean a little further back compared to the intended usage of placing it on your desk at work so that it's nearly at eye level.
When I got the Cruzerlite case for the N7, the dock wasn't going to work at ALL. The MicroUSB charging port wouldn't even come close to mating up to the connector on the stand, and would put the N7 at a horrible viewing angle even if it did, leaning like 20+ degrees forward instead of 10 degrees backwards! So time to get to work on this lovely Labor Day, here's what you'll need to modify the dock:
Eyeglass Phillips Screwdriver
Small Flathead Screwdriver
Needle-Nose Pliers
Electrical Tape
X-Acto Knife
Crazy Glue / CA Glue (for hobbies and crafts) / Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks
Protective Eyewear
Sanding Apparatus (I used a belt sander, but if you don't have one, use a Dremel or good old fashioned hand sand paper)
Finishing Sand Paper (400 grit and up)
USB charging plug out in the garage or wherever you'll be doing this so you can test the connections
Time and Patience
I'm going to apologize in advance for not taking pics of the modifications. I'm awful at this, but since I do custom stuff like this for a living, it really isn't in my nature to take pics all the way through doing custom work, so I'm sorry but the descriptions will have to hold up for now! This is what it will look like when you're done though, I'll show that first:
Before you ask, the wallpaper was something custom I worked up, and isn't available for download, sorry.... using trademarked logos is something I don't mind doing for my personal device because no one can complain about it, providing it for others isn't cool though!
And here's what you need to do to get it to look like that:
Start by pealing off the little rubber pads adhered to the bottom of the dock, they conceal the small Phillips head screws to disassemble it.
Remove the screws and don't lose them!
Make sure you have the cable disconnected from the wall outlet and start picking at the hot glue stuck to the inside of the dock, but BE CAREFUL not to damage any wires in the process! Once you get it started on the very outside with the Flathead screwdriver, just peal the rest of it up by hand, slowly. You'll want to remove the glue from around the LED and the MicroUSB connector.
Once the glue is off, the MicroUSB connector will pop out with some force to the top of it - just push down with your thumb and it should break through the melted plastic that was tacking it in place from underneath.
Completely remove the USB cable from the docking station and set aside, now the seat back of the dock is clear to sand without the MicroUSB connector in the way!
START SANDING, however you have planned. Do this evenly and make sure you are starting with knocking down the high spot on the top of the seat back of the dock. Yes, read that again, and then continue with this description. The "seat" of the dock is "L" shaped, if you will. The bottom of the L needs no sanding, just the top of it, on the face of the L. You want it to lean like an italicized L would look, or maybe a J for you visual learners. Again, sorry for no pics of the progress.
Do a little at a time and check your progress - clean your hands, pick up the tablet that should have been far enough away from the sanding process, and while looking from underneath the dock, see if you can visually line up the charging port on the N7 with the slit that the MicroUSB connector used to protrude from. Not yet? Keep sanding! Man, I feel bad if you're doing this by hand, I ground the crap out of the dock to get it where I wanted it....
One thing that you may encounter if you're using a belt sander or even a Dremel is that you'll start to sand through the material on the very top corners, or at least get to an outline of the molded plastic from the inside. That's okay, it actually turned out interesting for me when I finished, and you'll see why. Just be careful not to sand right through it and leave a gaping hole, it isn't easy to do, but it's not hard if you're not paying attention to what you're sanding, and stopping every few seconds to see the progress.
After you've got it perfect, whatever that means to you, hit it with the high numbered sand paper to smooth it all down and finish it up, I used 400 because that gives plastic a really nice feel, in my opinion.
Wash the dock down and your hands as well, and rub it all over to get off all the loose sanded plastic. Dry with a paper towel and blow dry before continuing.
Now line up the charging port to where the MicroUSB connector once resided, and while holding the N7 with the case on it in place, see if that's the right angle you want it in, mine has a nice gangsta lean to it, and that's what I was going for.
If you sanded too much, you may want to use some heavy duty glue to repair it from the inside. I did just to strengthen it and since I sanded it down a little too much on one side (the belt sander will do that, quickly!), I actually created a second window from the front for the blue LED to shine through by using glue on the inside! You'll see what I mean below in pics.
Now that you've visually got the port lined up with where the connector will go, we need to mate the two together. Start by cutting the MicroUSB connector slit open even more than it once was. You need to widen that opening because the MicroUSB plug will need to sit higher than it did previously, as the case will raise the N7 off the base of the dock about 1/8th of an inch.
Where the plug used to sit, you'll see from the inside that it looks thinner at the very base of the opening. Using the X-Acto Knife, cut perpendicularly to the hole on the very left and right of it, making an "H" on from the outside, where the horizontal bar on the letter H is the exisiting MicroUSB plug slit. Once you cut deep enough, you can use the Needle-Nose Pliers to break off the thin tabs. You will now have enough room for the entire base of the MicroUSB plug to feed through (see macro pictures of the plug below for reference to see how much the hole is widened and how high the plug sits in comparison to before).
Before you even TOUCH the MicroUSB cable after removing it in step 5, let's tape it up so you avoid any accidents. Grab the electrical tape and carefully wrap all the bare wires and the base of the MicroUSB plug. Be very gentle with the wires, they are VERY fragile and will break if you use force in tearing the electrical tape - trust me, I know.... I had to repair a loose wire because of it! Don't use too much on the base of the plug though, the more you use, the more you'll have to shave down with the X-Acto Knife to widen the opening for the plug to fit through. Don't use too much on the cables because it won't bend easily later.
Now, if you're handy enough, you can hold the N7 and the dock with one hand and feed the plug up through the dock with the other, if not, get some help holding it up. Be careful not to break the plug or bend it too much while test fitting it!!! Once fitted, plug in the cable and see if your N7 is charging - if not, you need to feed the plug up higher and most likely shave down the sides of the hole to feed more of it up to reach the dock. Now's a good time to check the viewing angle as well, making sure you're okay with it!
Optionally, you can stop here before hard mounting the MicroUSB plug and prep and paint your dock, I recommend using texture black spray paint if you want to, but I didn't care that much to do it.... Think about what you want to do with it now, once you continue, you can't paint it effectively.
Holding the N7 to the dock and the charging port securely fixed to it and verifying once more it charges the device, tack some glue to the inside to hold the port in place. The reason I use CA Glue is because with the accelerator, it takes 10 seconds for it to go from a liquid to ROCK SOLID, speeding up the time I need to hold something firmly together for it to stay glued together.
Carefully remove the N7 from the dock, making sure it didn't break the tacked glue (if it did, repeat the process clearing out the glue you just tacked), and smother the inside of the dock with glue to seal that sucker in there for good.
Depending on what glue you used, you may even want to apply some glue to the top, by where the MicroUSB plug sits on the base to strengthen it even further - if you're only using hot glue with this, don't even think about it!
Optionally, you'll want to glue back the blue LED, but before you do, you can put some electrical tape over the hole to dampen the brightness of that damn beacon of a light! Why the Chinese think we need such a bright light to tell us that these docks have power, I'll never know....
Keeping the cable connected to the power supply to ensure the blue LED stays lit, carefully bend the wires and reinstall the base with screws.
Put the rubber feet back on the dock once the screws are all snug, and your dock has been modified!
Optionally, cover the bottom with industrial strength Velcro and mount it to the place you're going to keep the dock positioned. I do that to all my docking stations, the one for my Harmony 1000 remote, my cell phone, everything. There's just something so appealing about being able to grab the device with one and and pulling straight up without having to hold the dock or base with the other hand to keep it from coming with the device! Trust me, you'll thank me later....
Oh, yeah, one more thing, and this isn't really optional.... You want to throw out the 1.0A wall plug that came with this and find yourself a 2.0 - 2.1A wall plug to charge your tablet. Newer devices require more power to charge them faster, some, charge at ALL, so ditch that 1.0A one because it isn't designed for your tablet. You can find the right one by using the one that came with the device, just not using the USB cable since this one is attached to the dock, but don't use the cheap 1.0A one that comes with this dock!
Here are more images as I promised:
If this has helped you in any way, please don't forget to say thanks! I wasn't planning on doing this write up but after seeing some of the ones done on here for other simple little things (that DIY DVD Case / Tablet Stand is awesome!), I figured I'd try and help if possible. I'm not looking to boost my ego or anything here, but as you can see, it took me a white writing up these 25 steps!
Enjoy and let me know if I need to be more clear on any of the steps! I'm always open to criticism of my write ups, just be kind and don't get crazy, I'm here to help but need to know what you need help with first.... Also, PLEASE don't click reply to this post and quote this whole thing, it wastes a lot of space and reproduces this whole post for no reason - if you need to quote something from what I said, quote just what you need! Also, we will laugh at you for quoting the whole post.... Thanks!

Disable magnetic switch?

I have a case with magnet to launch/suspend my Nexus. It also has the nice possibility to flip the front to the back. But unfortunately the magnet seems to be sufficiently strong enough to switch even in this position (from the back side). Any idea on how to prevent this? Some "magnetic isolation" from the backside?
Thanks!

I'd need to see a pic of the case really.
However with my old case I snapped the pointy bits off of some drawing pins by treading them in to the kitchen floor & lined them up in a square two across, two down. Then I wrapped it in aluminium foil and put sticky tape around it. Then I stuck the little square between my Nexus 7 case & the back of my Nexus 7. It worked perfectly & I still had the sleep function.

You might just want to replace the magnet with a weaker one if you can get to it easily
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda app-developers app

It is this case:
http://www.amazon.de/Schutzhülle-Fu...UTF8&colid=D0Y9AZ5AA2ME&coliid=I14S1WK45KAPCD
@Rock-&-Roll-Hedgehog: I didn't fully understand your instructions. But basically you suggest, that aluminium foil at the back of the nexus will reduce the magnetic field?
Thanks for your answers!

Guntram said:
It is this case:
http://www.amazon.de/Schutzhülle-Fu...UTF8&colid=D0Y9AZ5AA2ME&coliid=I14S1WK45KAPCD
@Rock-&-Roll-Hedgehog: I didn't fully understand your instructions. But basically you suggest, that aluminium foil at the back of the nexus will reduce the magnetic field?
Thanks for your answers!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I got some drawing pins like these
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bash off the pointy bits you only want the heads. Lay them in a two by two configuration and wrap them in aluminium foil. I think the drawing pins are made from copper but don't quote me. You buy them at any stationers for a pound or so (couple of dollars for a big box). They then seem to shield the back from the magnetic field.
PS Guntram are you German? You need Reißzwecke, metal ones no plastic.

Thanks for the advice!
I've used the botton of a tea candle now. Still not sure thought, wether its the material or just the "size" of the object - but it works!

Any sort of "thick enough, big enough" piece of metal will diffuse the magnetic field. So your bit of metal from the bottom of the candle was enough. Aluminum foil would most likely work if you fold it enough times.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

bsoplinger said:
Aluminum foil would most likely work if you fold it enough times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doesn't there need to be some iron in there?
Hedgehog's drawing pin solution is pretty clever. Could you tell me whereabouts in the case 'tray' you placed them? Save me a bunch of trial and error by giving me a starting point.

formicae said:
Doesn't there need to be some iron in there?
Hedgehog's drawing pin solution is pretty clever. Could you tell me whereabouts in the case 'tray' you placed them? Save me a bunch of trial and error by giving me a starting point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Iron no, metal yes. Actually any conductive material would work.
As far as location goes, try about 3/4 inch up and 1.5 in from the bottom right corner when held in landscape orientation with the USB port to the right and power switch and volume up.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Xparent Purple Tapatalk 2

bsoplinger said:
Iron no, metal yes. Actually any conductive material would work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Conductors that are neither ferromagnetic nor paramagnetic have no effect on static magnetic fields... other than changing the distance involved which will reduce the field stregth; otoh a thick hunk of paper or plastic would do the same thing. Excellent conductors (gold, silver, platinum) can effect rapidly changing magnetic fields due to induced eddy currents, but that doesn't apply here.
But don't take my word for it - take two small permanent magnets and some aluminum foil, and see if the Al foil changes how they attract each other any differently than paper of the same thickness.
The poster that used thumbtack heads succeeded either because the additional thickness decreased the mag field below the switch latch threshold, or more likely the tack heads had some iron in them. (Probably not nickel, manganese or other exotics)
A thin shim of Mu-Metal would work, or something ferrous would work too - possibly a shim of anything sufficiently thick would also do the trick.
cheers

I found a deal for a great car mount!

http://slickdeals.net/f/7995637-car...ack-5-99-ac-prime-shipping?v=1&src=SiteSearch
Found this on slickdeals-- I've had it for quite some time, and it works great on the G4! $6 is great for this thing... highly recommended! I didn't see any other car mount threads, so I just started this one.

Even with the curved back it sticks during braking and acceleration?
Sent from my LG-H815

Any chance the metal plate can fit inside the stock phone, by taking off the back of the phone and putting the plate right where the NFC sticker is?
I don't want to use a case, so I'm wondering if I can insert the metal plate inside the phone to get the magnetic effect to work without using a case?

KingFatty said:
Any chance the metal plate can fit inside the stock phone, by taking off the back of the phone and putting the plate right where the NFC sticker is?
I don't want to use a case, so I'm wondering if I can insert the metal plate inside the phone to get the magnetic effect to work without using a case?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've looked into the scosche one and it's a fairly thin plate of metal but even then slapping on the QI sticker made my back really tight. From my my quick look it's a no go, although I hope that I'm really wrong

I bought some generic chinese that looks much like that, from Ebay.
I'm hoping one of the metal plates fits inside my leather back withou messing with the NFC connectors...
Will b a long waiting, but when I get it, I'll say something.

I know modern cell phones use magnetic free parts now, I was still afraid to try this on G4 thinking it might ruin display or camera function.
I think I'll give it a go.
Sent from my LG-H811 using XDA Free mobile app

Success - I was able to fit the very thin metal plate (from a similar CD-slot magnetic mount) right inside the phone, between the battery and the back cover. I'm using a black leather back cover.
I think the thin metal plate might be thinner than the wireless charging sticker, but I don't have a sticker to compare. It's just that the metal plate did not seem to make the back plate much tighter? Also, the metal plate is smaller than the rectangle formed by the NFC antenna, so it does not overlap with the contacts inside.

Can you take some pics and/or video to show the results, how it looks and how well it stays in your car?
Since our back is curved and all don't see how well it can stay without slipping and falling from the adapter.

daniel06gt said:
Can you take some pics and/or video to show the results, how it looks and how well it stays in your car?
Since our back is curved and all don't see how well it can stay without slipping and falling from the adapter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you want how it works, click on the link below. it's pretty much exact concept.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zpu2GENBeNc

My question is will the magnet damage the phone? like how magnet are not suppose to be close to hard drive.

I have been wanting a magnetic car dock but i wanted to know if i bought the wireless charging chip would the magnet mess up the charging/nfc since its always inside of the phone? and would love to see how it looks on the dock since our phones are curved. ive been really skeptical buying one without knowing any of this

sumasage said:
My question is will the magnet damage the phone? like how magnet are not suppose to be close to hard drive.
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Click to collapse
No, anything you would normally worry about is solid state in this phone.
Nothing will be damaged.

I bought this for both my wife and myself. My wife the AC vent one, and the cd insert one for me. The metal it comes with fits under both plastic and leather cases, and my phone still charges wirelessly fine as well. they stay mounted pretty damn well. Portrait mode is a little more stable than landscape. Landscape if the balance is off much it will be more susceptible to rotating a little when you hit pot holes. My only negative comment about these is that I feel that I have to be delicate when tapping the phone when it's mounted. Other than that I love these.

Yeah I'm loving my mount. I'll try to find an old phone to take some pictures and videos of how it looks and mounts/works in the car. It just really blends in nicely with everything, and is stable and strong despite the curved back it really grips.

so cool

Ok the following video and photos were *NOT* taken by an LG G4. Here's the video of me showing the LG G4 with leather back, no case, using the magnetic car air vent mount.
The video demonstrates how the phone is stable and stationary when using the screen to tap/scroll etc., and I also hit the phone kind of hard to show how it might wiggle with extreme bumps and still remain stable. When I use the phone, tapping the screen to wake or sleep the screen is just so awesome and easy, because I don't have to fiddle with any physical buttons. Also tapping and sliding around doesn't disturb the phone, the mount is very secure even though the phone back is curved. It might be partially due to the rubber mount gripping onto the thread stitching on the leather back? It's a good solid grip.
Video link:
https://goo.gl/photos/t9xj6wWnj63T21yz5
Here are pictures of the installation. Notice that the battery is slightly too thin for its receptacle in the phone's housing, so that the sides of the plastic housing extend higher up beyond the edge of the battery by a couple millimeters or so. The metal plate is still thinner than this extra space, and fits nicely within the footprint of the battery with a little room to spare. I put my metal plate kind of low, due to how low I position the magnet mount on my vent. The mount is sold with a smaller circular plate too, but I like this bigger rectangular plate to have more margin for error when you align it:
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The phone is as thin as usual, no difference in appearance with the metal plate installed between the battery and the leather backplate (I still have the OEM NFC antenna in place, and there is still room for the metal plate easily):
Here is the position I use for the magnet mount on the A/C vent. I also partially closed the airflow for the vent, so there is just enough coming out to keep the phone nice and cool, without overdoing it. If I put the mount on the next higher position, the rubber mount just touches the adjuster tab and locks the vent at a specific angle up/down and left/right. So putting the magnet mount on the lower vent vane position gives me more flexibility in the phone angle (both for the up/down angle and the left/right angle):
Phone installed and screen off:
Phone installed and screen on:

I wonder if it works fine with the QI sticker.

It does for me and I have the qi sticker.
Funny thing is every once and an while it will act like I have a quick circle case on for a split second because those use magnets as well. It's only for less than a second on the initial placement to mount it but that's it.

What about the sticky pads? I am using them for 3 years with my htc phones and they stick like glue on them even landscape. Though it will be better with the plastic G4 than leather

well, while the magnet won't damaging any of the phone components I still want to avoid the camera area. right next to it there is a gyroscope or whatever you want to call it and magnet does pull it. every time when you swipe magnet through it, you'd hear clicking noise like ball rolling inside.
and it is strong! even dirt roads can't even knock this phone out of its mount. just make sure to put metal sheet in the center of the phone, otherwise it will spin around, so don't make it top heavy. square sheet held my phone better than circle one.