Is there any way to choose this setting in the camera (sudo "manual" controls...)...?
I'm finding with landscapes, etc "normal" mode is choosing F2.0 for my pictures which is really not ideal... Have I missed the setting somewhere?
Or is there an app for that?
This is F2.0 fixed aperture lens. Aperture won't change. I don't know any phone camera that had variable aperture since N86. Yes,you will lose some details in extra wide landscape shots due to large aperture and wife angle lens couples with low resolution sensor but it is not too bad to be honest. The little compromise here gains advantage in other areas.
From my HTC One, right in your face....
Related
i have the kodak easy share C1013 which has 10 mega pixels apparently. but the problem is my phones comes blurry what ever i do, even if the flash is on for some reason, but this only happens indoors and even if the lights are on...if anyone here is good in camera, can they help me pls
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=7783291#post7783291
see the third photo on this thread i clicked it with the flash on
Well the third photo the picture is recular out of focus. The problem with Point and SHoots is that they take a while to focus (especially in low light) and (this with all cmeras) the shutter speed has to be much lower for the sensor to gather more light...and P&S's have tiny sensors compared to an APS-C, CMOS, ir a full frame sensor. But you should just retake that shot making sure the camera is focused and maybe add some more light on the subject to make it easier for the camera.
Are you using a manual setting? Have you dropped the camera? How close are you shooting?
wdfowty said:
Are you using a manual setting? Have you dropped the camera? How close are you shooting?
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i have tried both manual and automatic, but both come out blurry. the camera has never been droped and this occur only indoors even if there is plently of light.
jaszek said:
Well the third photo the picture is recular out of focus. The problem with Point and SHoots is that they take a while to focus (especially in low light) and (this with all cmeras) the shutter speed has to be much lower for the sensor to gather more light...and P&S's have tiny sensors compared to an APS-C, CMOS, ir a full frame sensor. But you should just retake that shot making sure the camera is focused and maybe add some more light on the subject to make it easier for the camera.
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i alway focus my camera properly, when ever the focus is right, the box thing becomes green. how to lower the shutter speed i will take some photo with plenty of light. also the the the third photo was taken in a room full of light and also with the flash on
You mentioned that the room is well lit. But perhaps you are standing in front of the light and casting a shadow on your subject?
You mentioned that the camera has locked focus before you fully pressed the shutter. But with inadequate lighting, perhaps the camera is focusing on the wrong spot?
Some cameras have a light that comes on when you half-press the shutter to help the camera focus in low-light. If your camera has this, then make sure you enable it.
Also, if you didn't crop the photo, then perhaps you are holding the camera too close to your subject. Try backing off at least 2 or 3 feet. Then crop the photo with an editor to exclude anything you don't want.
You could also check settings for your focus point. It could be set to spot focus off center, I've seen it before.
ohyeahar said:
You mentioned that the room is well lit. But perhaps you are standing in front of the light and casting a shadow on your subject?
You mentioned that the camera has locked focus before you fully pressed the shutter. But with inadequate lighting, perhaps the camera is focusing on the wrong spot?
Some cameras have a light that comes on when you half-press the shutter to help the camera focus in low-light. If your camera has this, then make sure you enable it.
Also, if you didn't crop the photo, then perhaps you are holding the camera too close to your subject. Try backing off at least 2 or 3 feet. Then crop the photo with an editor to exclude anything you don't want.
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i tried what you said and see the pics i uploaded, but still i dont find the quality of a 10 megapixel camera tho
For those types of pics you need a camera with a macro feature/setting.
good day.
The 3rd and 6th photos are blurry because your subject spans a large depth of field. In those two photos, the base of the iPhone is close to your camera while the top of the iPhone is far away. The distance between these 2 points is too large for your camera to handle (especially under those lighting conditions). Your camera needs a smaller aperture setting than it can handle for those shots.
(In the 3rd photo, the camera seems to have focused on the farthest point. Notice that the top is in focus but the bottom is blurred. In the 6th photo, it's the opposite. Notice that you can clearly see the cracks in the cardboard box on the bottom while the top is blurred.)
The others look on par with what you should expect from your camera under those lighting conditions.
Remember that more megapixels doesn't mean better quality.
The following is just a tip. Lighting is important. Try to take your pictures with sunlight. Don't depend on your camera flash. If you use your flash aimed directly at your subject to compensate for lack of lighting, your pics will look terrible more often than not. (I see from the reflection off the rear of your iPhone that you're using a lamp as your primary source of light. That's not adequate...)
Shallow depth of field is not a bad thing with good lighting. It allows you to highlight certain aspects of your subject. See the following examples.
1st Pic, 2nd Pic, 3rd Pic
The 2nd pic draws your eyes to the bottom right corner while the 3rd pic draws them towards to the top left.
These were also taken indoors with a 10MP camera. But I used my Nikon D60 with SB-400 speedlight to bounce the flash off the ceiling.
Ok coming from Samsung , HTC, Asus and iPhone (I know I here you gasp)
I pretty much use my rear camera alot for work purposes, no selfies
Mostly its point and shoot I do and I know the camera on these are for ppl getting the right shot manually due to the settings
Have tried apps on this phone Like :
Camera FV-5 (same kind of results)
Open Camera (which seems to stay active in the background)
Now heres my question if you quickly take a photo, point and shoot (focusing first) using highest resolution
Once you zoom into the taken picture, its all grainy even if its took about 3-4 feet away from you
Now, if you take the same picture with monochrome its a better pic and if focusing on say a bottle with writing
Its more visible to read compared to the colour as the colour looks like its a water painting
Are you guys getting the same results or know preferred settings to use?
Thanks
Try to set the resolution to 12mp to enable the 2x "optical" zoom.
The color sensor is only a 12mp one, the monochrome sensor has 20mp.
If you enable 20mp in settings, the camera will make a monochrome and color photo and merge them into one. This is also the reason why the 20mp photos are a bit blurry or too bright on edges.
So, use 12mp and the grain should be mostly gone.
Here are three shots by me:
https://imgur.com/a/BYf7kIX - played with focus, no aperture feature.
https://imgur.com/a/xA2qURk - just a free hand picture in 12mp without zoom
https://imgur.com/a/RbEdeiI - and the same with 2x optical zoom.
Jannomag said:
Try to set the resolution to 12mp to enable the 2x "optical" zoom.
The color sensor is only a 12mp one, the monochrome sensor has 20mp.
If you enable 20mp in settings, the camera will make a monochrome and color photo and merge them into one. This is also the reason why the 20mp photos are a bit blurry or too bright on edges.
So, use 12mp and the grain should be mostly gone.
Here are three shots by me:
https://imgur.com/a/BYf7kIX - played with focus, no aperture feature.
https://imgur.com/a/xA2qURk - just a free hand picture in 12mp without zoom
https://imgur.com/a/RbEdeiI - and the same with 2x optical zoom.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for comments
Is this with stock camera? stock rom?
as My pics are no where near as good as this on 8.0.0.379(C02)
EwOkie said:
Thanks for comments
Is this with stock camera? stock rom?
as My pics are no where near as good as this on 8.0.0.379(C02)
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Everything stock, 8.0.0.370 on VTR-L29C432, stock EMUI camera.
Can you show some examples?
Desk is about 4-5 feet away from me when taking these shots
Sunny outside
Just normal photo and putting focus on the bottles as shown (seen in zoomed photo)
You can clearly see they look terrible apart from monochrome
No settings have been touched apart from resolution
Zoom is about 4.6x
Monochrome
12MP
20MP
Zoomed in
I put some crap on the desk but if you can see the text is visible on some stuff to give you an idea
Using 3x zoom in the camera doesn't switch to the 80mm lens. It just gives a crop from the 40mp main sensor.
Is there a way to actually use the 3x lens?
In my case to make it work I force Focus, after that i can see the swap between lenses.
Horayken said:
In my case to make it work I force Focus, after that i can see the swap between lenses.
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How do you force focus? I tired manual focus and it still didn't change lenses when going from 1 to 3x
viper98 said:
How do you force focus? I tired manual focus and it still didn't change lenses when going from 1 to 3x
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Click to collapse
Just tap somewhere in the picture and it will change to the optical zoom lens.
djlukas1983 said:
Just tap somewhere in the picture and it will change to the optical zoom lens.
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Click to collapse
That doesn't do anything but use a crop from the 40mp sensor to give a fake "zoom". You would get the same results using the 40mp mode and cropping the image yourself
I'm convinced the optical zoom lens exists for nothing but marketing. The only lens on the back that is ever used for any photos is the middle lens.
Maybe it is something weird with mine. You can check this by covering the other lenses with your finger
viper98 said:
That doesn't do anything but use a crop from the 40mp sensor to give a fake "zoom". You would get the same results using the 40mp mode and cropping the image yourself
I'm convinced the optical zoom lens exists for nothing but marketing. The only lens on the back that is ever used for any photos is the middle lens.
Maybe it is something weird with mine. You can check this by covering the other lenses with your finger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You must use it in enough bright environment because it won't switch to zoom lens when it's not enough bright.
viper98 said:
That doesn't do anything but use a crop from the 40mp sensor to give a fake "zoom". You would get the same results using the 40mp mode and cropping the image yourself
I'm convinced the optical zoom lens exists for nothing but marketing. The only lens on the back that is ever used for any photos is the middle lens.
Maybe it is something weird with mine. You can check this by covering the other lenses with your finger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, everyone can see the lens switching, the telephoto one have OIS, i use the zoom all the time, if i cover the telephoto lens i cant see anything, so yes the telephoto is fully functional and not a made up marketing, in pie they even added a toggle to the HDR mode so you can get HDR pictures using it faster. (in adroid oreo you can manually zoom until 3x on HDR but now alot easier). the only times you cant use it and the phone will switch back to the main lens, is:
1. At Night or when theres not enough light.
2.If you try to focus a object that is just too close.
djlukas1983 said:
You must use it in enough bright environment because it won't switch to zoom lens when it's not enough bright.
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Click to collapse
I was wondering why my indoor 3x zoom pics were so poor. I had tried covering the zoom lens in the past, proving that it actually does switch between the two lenses. What I didn't realize until now, is that when the camera doesn't have enough light, the zoom lens isn't used and the 3x becomes a digital zoom using the main (middle) lens. You can easily see this by turning on the 3x zoom, covering it up, and shifting a live view from a bright window to a dark area inside - when pointing outside the lens is blocked, but when you swing around and point the camera inside you can see the image (because it is no longer using the 2x lens).
That explains the poor indoor zoom shots I've been taking - thanks!!
Now I still need to find out what the monochrome lens is actually doing in colour photos. Playing with blocking the lens only seems to have an effect in monochrome mode, but it is supposed to contribute to capturing all photos. Any suggestions...?
I am looking for a way to be able to adjust both shutter speed and Aperture. Unfortunately cannot seem to find such option anywhere.
I wonder why there is no aperture setting in Manual Mode and then, in Aperture Mode - there is no shutter speed setting....?!
Am I missing something?
Is there any third party camera application that can do that for me?
I would like to be able to take long exposure night pictures with settings - F16, S = 8 seconds, ISO100 (or lower).
Thanks!
Aperture mode isn't true aperture mode, it's just applying software effects to simulate changes in aperture.
Specs:
40MP RGB 1/1.7in type sensor, f/1.8 aperture
20MP monochrome, f/1.6 aperture
8MP 3x zoom, f/2.4 aperture
Optical Image Stabilisation (OIS) for all
24MP front camera, f/2.0 aperture
Laser autofocus and colour temperature sensor
theboylogan said:
Aperture mode isn't true aperture mode, it's just applying software effects to simulate changes in aperture.
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Thank you! That is pitty...
Hi folks, I'm so annoyed because I figured out that when taking pictures, Samsung actually chooses the best lens among the 4 for you. At first I thought that the 4 circular icons at the bottom would force the use of a specific lens (ultra-wide, wide, tele 1 and tele 2), but that's not the case! This is what I've found so far:
PHOTOS:
0.6x-1x: will always force the ultra-wide lens (obviously)
1x-2x: should use the wide lens, but switches to ultra-wide and zooms in when too close to subject (called focus enhancer)
2x-3x: will always force the wide lens
3x-10x: should use the tele1 (3x) lens, but switches to wide if it's too dark or if too close the subject
10x-15x: should use the tele2 (10x) lens, but switches to tele1 (3x) if it's too dark or if too close the subject
15x-100x: will always use the tele2 (10x) lens
VIDEOS:
[email protected] will force the main wide camera as it's the only capable of shooting with that resolution
[email protected] is the only mode that works as it should! when you pick a lens from the bottom, it will use that specific lens and nothing else!
1080p and other resolutions try to apply the same algorithm used for photos
Now clearly this works well in most conditions, but there are some in which I find this algorithm very annoying:
1) When it's "too dark", which is clearly subjective given that Samsung won't know what I'm shooting at and will just average the pixels brightness
2) When I want to take a close-up shots with the tele1 or tele2 lens, right at the minimal focusing distance and create natural lens portraits-bokeh.
Is there any way we could possibly force the use of a specific lens? Thank you in advance
efrank99 said:
Hi folks, I'm so annoyed because I figured out that when taking pictures, Samsung actually chooses the best lens among the 4 for you. At first I thought that the 4 circular icons at the bottom would force the use of a specific lens (ultra-wide, wide, tele 1 and tele 2), but that's not the case! This is what I've found so far:
PHOTOS:
0.6x-1x: will always force the ultra-wide lens (obviously)
1x-2x: should use the wide lens, but switches to ultra-wide and zooms in when too close to subject (called focus enhancer)
2x-3x: will always force the wide lens
3x-10x: should use the tele1 (3x) lens, but switches to wide if it's too dark or if too close the subject
10x-15x: should use the tele2 (10x) lens, but switches to tele1 (3x) if it's too dark or if too close the subject
15x-100x: will always use the tele2 (10x) lens
VIDEOS:
[email protected] will force the main wide camera as it's the only capable of shooting with that resolution
[email protected] is the only mode that works as it should! when you pick a lens from the bottom, it will use that specific lens and nothing else!
1080p and other resolutions try to apply the same algorithm used for photos
Now clearly this works well in most conditions, but there are some in which I find this algorithm very annoying:
1) When it's "too dark", which is clearly subjective given that Samsung won't know what I'm shooting at and will just average the pixels brightness
2) When I want to take a close-up shots with the tele1 or tele2 lens, right at the minimal focusing distance and create natural lens portraits-bokeh.
Is there any way we could possibly force the use of a specific lens? Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had noticed something very similar! Mainly when tapping 10x zoom with indoor lighting!
I've never tested it to the exact figures as you did, but Samsung definitely uses the Main camera and 3x when zoomed in during poor light instead of the 10x, and often produced worse quality but brighter photos
I've not managed to "force" use it the 10x but using the slider back and forth between 9-12x zoom and slightly adjusting the phone can allow you to use the 10x in poor light!
As for the close ups and natural bokeh - there's a button in the bottom left of the camera app to switch on/off focus enhancer - just use this as/when needed
According to this post, selecting night mode should increase the chances of using the zoom lens vs. cropping, though that may not give you the look you want. But worth experimenting with.
Although annoying that, we can't use whichever lens we want here is a bit example on the photography side od things.
The samsung lenses are FIXED Aperture and FIXED zoom
Hence for night photos and poor lit conditions it will use the main 1.8 Aperture lens which lets in more light.
and wide for closer up as its got the macro function and the next best aperture at 2.2
the 3x is more sharper that the other two at 2.4 so will need more better lighting then the other two.
The 10x is the most sharpest at 4.9 Aperture but one which would require very bright conditions.
also the 10x requires the furthest distance to focus and if you notice from 3x when you switch to the 10x in indoor settings anything black will have a greenish hue which is not very flattering.