Database Develop

[Q] Streak replacement capacitive buttons.

I damaged my Capacitive buttons (flex circuit).
Can anyone recommend where to get a replacement part?

Lol. I did the same thing. Ladies and gentlemen please wait for the plastic tool to arrive in the mail before you start trying to disassemble your streak! I used a screwdriver and it cut through the flexible circuit card. Contemplated fixing it, but there`s five tracks on the circuit board!
I got a quote from an ebay seller in the UK for the capacitive buttons and plastic bezel. 90 pounds plust postage. What a rip off! I ended up buying a complete streak from ebay. It was locked to O2 and had the lcd bleeding problem, but perfect for me. Keep your eye out.
In the meantime, install softkeys from the market. It is a replacement home/settings/back button. A little inconvenient, but keeps you going while you bide your time on evilbay.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

printed circuits
My first streak also has a broken capacitive circuit board, didn't use this plastic tool for disassembling..
Now i use a old modified tooth brush
Was ready to ask a flexible board manufacturer what it would cost to reproduce such a circuit but for now i'm also using softkeys..
Maybe if we get 100 people together who needs one of those capacitive button circuits its worth asking a reproduction?

Thanks for the inputs. I got the key to work again after some fiddling. I'm just waiting for it to inevitably fail. I'll probably just get a new phone when that happens.

how do you get it broken? not that i wanted too, but it sound strange to me
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

Pretty easy... First time pulling it apart, had not seen any videos of the process. Fixit. Com (OR IFIXIT?) wasn't that comprehensive. Of course I was overtired and of course used a small screwdriver instead of a plastic removal tool.
Excuses, excuses. The screwdriver ultimately was the wrong thing.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App

Does anyone know where i can buy the Streak front 4 buttons and volume rocker buttons ribbons ?

http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/spares.html
I broke my capacitive button ribbon cable, anyone have any luck finding replacements? I'm going to try to repair it.

Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!

Posted in error

is it available now . coz i searched all through the internet and couldnt find the home and back buttons strip .

DashingGentleman said:
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may attempt this...$40usd for a new assembly is a bit high...

You can find the top/bottom parts on Ebay and on Lingosbox.com
I've purchased some spare parts for other phones on lingosbox - they are not genuine oem parts but for this price, it's a bargain for replacement parts that are rare/difficult to find. There's some delay(15-27days) but everything has arrived without any problem.

good to know someone found it cheaper

[Guide]Taking apart the Streak 7 (wip)

Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.

-Reserved-

WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.

Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.

jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals

Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction

Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages

Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of

best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.

TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.

Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?

I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide

Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.

hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...

finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.

TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC

The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.

can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.

TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.

this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!

Looking for dead One to attempt disassembly method

Hello, looking for a broken/borked/dead HTC One to attempt a different disassembly method to try to help the One community.
It is my understanding that they are glued together, not screwed, and that the suction cup method does not work. I used to retrofit headlights that also used glues, some heat glues, some needed a solvent. I have a lot of technical skill, and i would like to try my hand at popping one apart WITHOUT destroying the case/screen. I dont care if its water damaged, cracked screen, whatever, as long as its intact.
Posted this in all HTC One sections, please PM me if you have one or know of one, i'll pay shipping to and fro (i will NOT attempt repairs, JUST non-destructive disassembly) and post the results and a video on youtube if successful, and ship the unit back disassembled if successful, and not damaged further if not successful.
Please PM if interested or if you have any heads up to exchange contact information.
Thank you,
Slade8525

Slade8525 said:
Hello, looking for a broken/borked/dead HTC One to attempt a different disassembly method to try to help the One community.
It is my understanding that they are glued together, not screwed, and that the suction cup method does not work. I used to retrofit headlights that also used glues, some heat glues, some needed a solvent. I have a lot of technical skill, and i would like to try my hand at popping one apart WITHOUT destroying the case/screen. I dont care if its water damaged, cracked screen, whatever, as long as its intact.
Posted this in all HTC One sections, please PM me if you have one or know of one, i'll pay shipping to and fro (i will NOT attempt repairs, JUST non-destructive disassembly) and post the results and a video on youtube if successful, and ship the unit back disassembled if successful, and not damaged further if not successful.
Please PM if interested or if you have any heads up to exchange contact information.
Thank you,
Slade8525
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not just read the iFixit teardown of the ONE.

undrgrndchemist said:
Why not just read the iFixit teardown of the ONE.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats new since i had searched; i dont think bending the display is a good idea (unless its broken) with a suction cup like that.
thanks for the link; no point in this thread then :good:

I literally just took my One for a swim. Trying to figure out what to do with it...tried rice it seems completely dead.

Jammmmm said:
I literally just took my One for a swim. Trying to figure out what to do with it...tried rice it seems completely dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if it was chlorine water, the corrosion will kill it., but some of the hardware might survive. connectors would all need cleaned.

Slade8525 said:
thats new since i had searched; i dont think bending the display is a good idea (unless its broken) with a suction cup like that.
thanks for the link; no point in this thread then :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think there is, iFixit said themselves their repair was a butcher job. They also didnt say whether or not they were able to successfully reassemble. I'd like to know if there's another way, perhaps using a scientific hot plate or as the you stated in the OP, a glue solvent that wont hurt the components. I hope this is not the the wave of the future with equipment..."Disposable Expensive Phones"...or Assurian gets more popular selling their plan and sending 75% crap... BTW, I agree with the nonbending of LCD/Digitizers...I see so many tutorials showing this.
Jammmmm said:
I literally just took my One for a swim. Trying to figure out what to do with it...tried rice it seems completely dead.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Send it to me, or the OP if he's still ineterested. I've been opening/repairing phones for 19 years and have never been stumped. PM me if youre interested, I'm in Colorado. No guarantees, but I'll do the best I can.

peakcelln said:
I think there is, iFixit said themselves their repair was a butcher job. They also didnt say whether or not they were able to successfully reassemble. I'd like to know if there's another way, perhaps using a scientific hot plate or as the OP stated a glue solvent that wont hurt the components. I hope this is not the the wave of the future with equipment..."Disposable Expensive Phones"...or Assurian gets more popular selling their plan and sending 75% crap...
---------- Post added at 12:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:14 PM ----------
Send it to me, or the OP if he's still ineterested. I've been opening/repairing phones for 19 years and have never been stumped. PM me if youre interested, I'm in Colorado. No guarantees, but I'll do the best I can.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
definitely still interested.

Note 4 parts (mic replacrment in particular)

So, dropped my phone. Now the mic doesn't work. Most likely need to replace it. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? Anyone replace the mic before? Where can I find it besides eBay since most of those parts are fugazi.

Hey, I haven't taken apart a Note 4 before but I've taken apart a few other android phones to replace parts.
The mic on the Note 4 is on the same board as the USB and the two capacitive buttons on the bottom of the phone. So this repair does involve basically taking the whole phone apart.
You have to seperate the back of the phone and then really gently remove the glass and screen in order to get to the charging port. This video explains it very clearly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRkI0w8AITQ
The hardest part for me is always the glue, you MUST heat the phone up in order to soften the glue enough for you to gently pry off the back and screen.
As for the part, just buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-Galaxy-Note-4-AT-T-N910A-USB-Charger-Charging-Port-Dock-Flex-Cable-/111687783759?hash=item1a011c554f:g:EKoAAOSwNSxVcStr Buying from Ebay is fine, just always look at where the seller is based and is shipping the item from, in this case Florida. Usually the only time problems arise is with overseas sellers.
Hope I helped a bit.

Hey thanks for the help. I really didn't want to take the screen apart because of what you said. I have done screenrepair before and its very hard if not impossible to get that factory feel even from heating it up from my experience. Thank for your help

Bottom speaker replacement.

Has anybody replaced the bottom speaker before? Google hasn't been able to find me any guides on how to do it. Ifixit implies that it is soldered to the motherboard, but another repair site says it can be pried off.

hecksagon said:
Ifixit implies that it is soldered to the motherboard, but another repair site says it can be pried off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ifixit is usually right. Also, if something is surface-mount soldered to the board... Yes, you can pry it off... No you wouldn't be able to solder a new one on without the right tools and skills.

I'm hoping it's more like wedged between the board and the grille. Even if it's not it can't be more than a couple leads to solder.

Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.

hecksagon said:
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have a need at the moment, but it would be nice to have the write up available just in case.

hecksagon said:
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have to do the same on mine, bottom speaker not working. Is it visible ones you remove mid frame?

Yes once the midframe is removed it is very obvious where it is. It will be the largest component on the PCB at the bottom of the device. It is held down with some adhesive and uses contact pins for the connection. It was very easy to remove and replace. If you buy a replacement on eBay you may get a damaged one like I did. It appeared dented and crackles when it is installed. I was going to send it back but just never got around to it. I will be picking up another speaker and replacing it again.

hecksagon said:
Yes once the midframe is removed it is very obvious where it is. It will be the largest component on the PCB at the bottom of the device. It is held down with some adhesive and uses contact pins for the connection. It was very easy to remove and replace. If you buy a replacement on eBay you may get a damaged one like I did. It appeared dented and crackles when it is installed. I was going to send it back but just never got around to it. I will be picking up another speaker and replacing it again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, going to order one on ebay and hope it doesn't come damage. Good luck with the replacement.

hecksagon said:
Just replaced it. Very straight forward if you have ever had the phone apart. It is glued down to the motherboard and has contact pins on the backside of it. When I removed the broken one it took the adhesive with it. I used a thin film of super glue to get the new one to stick. If there is anybody else considering replacing the bottom speaker I would be willing to write up a guide. Considering how little info I have found on this I don't think its something many people do.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are the top and bottom speakers the same part? I'm seeing tons of top speakers online but very few for the bottom, anybody got a part # by chance?

No, bottom speaker is different from the top. I don't see part numbers listed but if your search term includes lower you should find it. Anything labeled earpiece is upper.