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hey, i was wondering if any one was successful in removing their engravings off the back of the nexus one..... i bought mine cheap second hand, but i can't seem to get the engravings off... thanks!
Maybe if you look up in the dictionary of what "engrave" means you'll find your answer. Then again is it possible to un-grave something? Put a cute little sticker over it or something.
Die grinder.
plastic filler
superfine sandpaper
paint
cover engravings with the filler
let it dry
sand down the filler until it's flush with the rest of the phone
wipe off with a wet rag (let dry after)
paint
depending on your painting skills you can make it look halfway decent. You won't make it like new though. The only way to make it not like terrible would be to paint the entire part of the phone where it is engraved. Since the engravings are on the chrome, looks like a whole body job to me.
Good Luck
Update:
Also, seriously you can't google? You do own their phone...
http://www.ehow.com/how_7774043_remove-engraving-nexus-one.html
I'd do this instead.
Toothpaste or Chocolate to wear it down.
Deekayy said:
Maybe if you look up in the dictionary of what "engrave" means you'll find your answer. Then again is it possible to un-grave something? Put a cute little sticker over it or something.
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sorry, engrave may not be the correct word to use. this is probably laser etching. i'm talking about the etching that google did for people who wanted to customize their phones.
XSafire said:
plastic filler
superfine sandpaper
paint
cover engravings with the filler
let it dry
sand down the filler until it's flush with the rest of the phone
wipe off with a wet rag (let dry after)
paint
depending on your painting skills you can make it look halfway decent. You won't make it like new though. The only way to make it not like terrible would be to paint the entire part of the phone where it is engraved. Since the engravings are on the chrome, looks like a whole body job to me.
Good Luck
Update:
Also, seriously you can't google? You do own their phone...
http://www.ehow.com/how_7774043_remove-engraving-nexus-one.html
I'd do this instead.
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i did google and i tried that already. didn't even scratch the surface. and the surface is not chrome, its anodized aluminum. which is a pain in the butt to work with...
Jyveafk said:
Toothpaste or Chocolate to wear it down.
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i tried the sugar cubes, but i believe thats only for silkscreened logos. i doubt either of these will be able to get the laser etched letterings. thanks though.
anyone else who was able to remove the personalized lettering on the back of the N1?
19.95$ back cover on ebay (real one)
The engraving isn't on the back cover, it's on the metal chassis.
Can you not buy a replacement chassis?
Sure you can, but they're not cheap, and I suspect it's a fair bit of work to swap the parts over.
First, it is important to note that the "engraving" is NOT actually engraved in, as some people here seem to believe.
It is merely silk-screened on.
As for removing it, I would suggest a mild abrasive, like tooth paste, and rubbing it with a cotton cloth... it will probably take a lot of elbow grease, but it should work!*
*Note: not responsible if you damage your phone or kill your loved ones with this method.
ngy said:
i did google and i tried that already. didn't even scratch the surface. and the surface is not chrome, its anodized aluminum. which is a pain in the butt to work with...
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my bad. If you scratch it with your fingernail, can you feel a groove?
GldRush98 said:
First, it is important to note that the "engraving" is NOT actually engraved in, as some people here seem to believe.
It is merely silk-screened on.
As for removing it, I would suggest a mild abrasive, like tooth paste, and rubbing it with a cotton cloth... it will probably take a lot of elbow grease, but it should work!*
*Note: not responsible if you damage your phone or kill your loved ones with this method.
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can't say its silkscreen for sure. i took a look under the microscope and its retains the same texture as the rest of the aluminum... silkscreened letterings SHOULD have a different, smooth texture.
XSafire said:
my bad. If you scratch it with your fingernail, can you feel a groove?
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yeah i do feel a slight bump. so i'm led to think its silkscreen or laser etched, leaning more towards laser etching... which means im stuck.
Rusty! said:
Sure you can, but they're not cheap, and I suspect it's a fair bit of work to swap the parts over.
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i think i may actually do this in the end. i was suggested to use "contact cleaner" as it deoxides materials... but thats precisely what anodized aluminum is... a thicker layer of colored aluminum oxide. it may just strip it all down to the bare aluminum... argh thinking out loud.
I have heard from someone who have tried the same thing known as Contact Cleaner. Haven't tried personally so can't say for certain but hey, what's the harm in trying it out? I don't have any personalization otherwise would have tried it out.
creativedevil said:
I have heard from someone who have tried the same thing known as Contact Cleaner. Haven't tried personally so can't say for certain but hey, what's the harm in trying it out? I don't have any personalization otherwise would have tried it out.
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really. contact cleaner can really get the thing off? i should try and get my hands on some then, rather than spending $60+ for a new housing. was thinking of sand blasting the whole thing too... and painting it all back. lol. all black nexus.......
ngy said:
really. contact cleaner can really get the thing off? i should try and get my hands on some then, rather than spending $60+ for a new housing. was thinking of sand blasting the whole thing too... and painting it all back. lol. all black nexus.......
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Please don't do this.
just sand down the aluminum until it is flush with the rest of it, then use different grades of paper until it is smooth
I don't exactly know how close to perfect you can make it, but it's better then sandblasting it.
ngy said:
can't say its silkscreen for sure. i took a look under the microscope and its retains the same texture as the rest of the aluminum... silkscreened letterings SHOULD have a different, smooth texture.
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I am 99% sure it is silk-screened on, in a similar manner to the Google and HTC logos on the back.
GldRush98 said:
I am 99% sure it is silk-screened on, in a similar manner to the Google and HTC logos on the back.
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i sure hope so. i think im gonna try the contact cleaner stuff thats been mentioned. while i have my doubts.... i guess i'll just give it a shot. anyone know what removes silk screening?
I think you would damage the surface of you phone.
Put a sticker over it instead.
Okay, I'm gonna start with this that I have OCD. Now that you know, Let's get on with business.
This happened to my beloved tablet:
Don't ask why or how, it's a long story and frankly it doesn't matter now, it's done.
my purpose for this thread, was that how can I fix it?
I've tried ceramic paint, it was okay, but it had some serious flaws.
1. Hard to paint it with that. huge PITA with brush, better with a sponge but still really hard.
2. It's very stable, and can't be removed easily, but, it cracks and falls off after a while.
3. only one coat is not enough. it needs at least 3 coats to completely cover it, and with that many coats it is creates a big bulge which is a huge eye sore.
Now, I've came to this conclusion that paint is no good. I thought I going for a complete re-paint (as I really like black for these stuff, I thought that may be a good idea), but when I opened the back cover of the tablet, I changed my mind. Now, I need some suggestions.
Thank you.
Before you post something, remember, I have OCD.
so, replacing the back cover is out of the question.. Going be a tricky one to solve.
thats going to be a pain to fix but i still think paint is the way to go.
Use a high grit sand-paper and sand it down until its smooth.
Use a spay of black primer and put like 2 coats of primer on and allow time to dry between hands.
Then i would use a high gloss black spray paint. 2 to 3 light coats of that.
Then very lightly sand it down(more of roughing it up a bit, not actually sanding it down) with the highest grip sandpaper you can get your hands on.
Apply 2 coats of clearcoat.
finally use a buffing compound and lightly buff the surface, that will give you a mirror black finish.
Those are steps i have taken in the past to paint electronics and they lasted a while under normal use and i was happy with the results. You could probably find a better step by step guide online somewhere.
Oh, and make sure you mask the screen and the side panels with MORE then one layer of masking tape or you will scratch it.
m1l4droid said:
Thanks for the reply. You mean full body paint? But it's very sensitive, slightest mistake and you lost your USB or speakers... and it's very hard to cover the speakers, am I right?
And you mean to scratch the whole paint off? That's really hard, on this device which is quite big, and has markings on the back.
I was thinking maybe covering it with something like leather... I can design a pattern for it or something, no?
Sent from my Nexus S with CyanogenMod 9
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well, the back cover pops off and you can do anything youwant to it without affecting device functionality. Iknow from my a500. As for the scratching, I meant that you dont want to scratch by accident your screen and the sides of the tablet, where the Ports are located. the paint will be a pain to do but with patience you could pull it off. you need to understand that since you are not a paint pro there will be a trade-off between the quality of the work and the self satisfaction of doing it yourself.
As for covering it, go to an upholstery shop and look at different fabrics. Get a really good glue, an exacto knife and a heatgun and get on it. Keep in mint that once the glue touches the tablet, there is no going back.
hi folks. i managed to replace my galaxy note front glass with a new one i got from ebay for 19$ and i want to make a step by step guide on how it can be done.
i did it using common tools and a s load of pacience and attention.
the tools i used are: heat gun with hi and low settings, exacto knife set,small phillips and flat screwdrivers, goo gone, and optional a screen protector.
first take the phone apart as it's describet in countless of threads and youtube videos. you should end up with the screen assembly shown in the first picture.
now we have to separate the glassscreen from the frame it sits on. for this we fire up the heat gun.
a few words about using the heat gun.
-my gun had 2 settings: low and high. during all this process i used it on low.
-don't put the gun directly and/or close to the thinn plastic wires that hold the two connectors.
- dont hold the gun in the same place more than 3 seconds, instead swipe the gun around the spot and the screen like u would do with a paint brush when painting.
- dont hold the gun too close, that is closer than 3 inch
-concentrate on the spot u working at but try to heat up the whole screen assembly, as it has to give away from all the points kind of at the same time, and not just the point u working at.
- dont overheat the screen as this will damage the amoled. thats how i got the two yellow spots on my screen. first one by accident and second one intentionaly to see if indeed the overheating is what caused it.
A very good rule for this is dont heat the phone more than you can bear to touch it cause afterall you have to hold the phone while working on it...
the way i did it is :
-i heated up the whole screen assembly, back and front, for a minute or two
- than i started to stick the tip of the exacto knife between the glass and the metal edge that sorrounds it. i started from the upper right corner, the side where the front camera is. see photo 2.
the goal is to unstick the glass from the frame. in photo 3 the frame and the screen is shown without the upper glass. this photo was taken after i finished everything, thats why the screen can be seen inside the frame. but i posted it to show the black sticky tape that its used to hold the glass to the frame. i think is the same kind of sticky tape thats used in all the touchphones including iphone to hold the front glass to the rest of the phone. in photo 4 i unsticked some of the tape to show it better. this tape is the main thing that holds the the glass to the frame. the other thing that hold the screen to the frame is some sticky glue on the back of the screen. but this is much softer and thiner glue. this is the reason why i say to heat up the whole screen assemby including the backside, to make it easyer to unstuck the glass and scren thats glued to it.
- once you get a bit of a foothold in the upper corner between and the glassand the frame you continue the folowing procedure again and again until the glass and screen detaches from the frame:
-every 2 minutes or so , when i feel the asemby cooled down, i'd heat up the whole assembly for 5 seconds or so, than concentrate on the spot i worked on for another 5 seconds, than move/push the exacto knife a bit. dont force it. after a while youl get a feel of it. if the exacto knife happend to be out, i would heat up the blade after heating up everything else, and than put the blade in.
prevent the freed parts from sticking back to the frame by using the rest of the exacto knife blades as shims.
once it detaches it should look like photo 5- the glass glued to the screen.
- now we have to detach or unglue the glass from the screen.
procedure is the same: start somewhere, heat, put knife in, etc... i used a second knife as shim folowing the first knife, and after avery couple moves i would get the knife out and wipe off the epoxy glue. heat the blade and put it back in.
when finished you should have something like photo 6 and 7: free screen covered in glue epoxy residue.
- now we have to get rid of the glue residue. i took the bulk of it usinga flat exacto knife blades like the one in photo 8 and 10. just warm the place a bit with the air gun and scrape it off with the blade. to clean what was left i used a bit of goo gone on a pice of cloth or napkin photo 9.
cleaned screen can be seen in photo 11 - sadly out of focus.
if u are like me and r impatient to test the screen you can just connect with just the side connector like in photo 12 and 13. the upper connector is for the s pen digitizer. side connector is for the screen and touch digitizer.
now all that's left is to put the phone back together except leave the new glass for last.
-first thing is to put the screen(without the glass) back on the frame. try to center it just right, so that ther's a little bit of space between the sides of the screen and the frame.
at this point all that will hold the screen to the frameis the thin layer of glue on the back of the screen. after centering and lowering the screen in the frame procede to put the phone back together folowing in reverse order the same steps used to disasambe it. when finished you should end up with the whole functioning phone except the front glass -as seen in photo 14.
now you can chose to trim and put a screen protector on the scree so as to fill the empty space between the screen and the glass - the space where the glue was, or you can just leave it empty. you can put a screen protector anytime after by removing the glass. which should be much easier to remove now that its held in place only by the blach sticky tape on the edges. just use some suction cap to remove it, starting at an age, and remove it like fliping a page. see photo 16. i used the note for 2 weeks without the screen protector in the empty space and it worked without a problem onlt thing was that when i pushed hard the glass would touch the screen and leave a bit of dirt in that place. thats why i decided to put the screen protector to fill the void. in photo 15 i raised the screen protector to make it visible in the photo.
if you are like me and worry that somehow the glass might fall off the phone you can always get a hard plastic case for the phone, like the one in the pics. it's made of 2 parts. one goes on the back one on the front and they snap togeter around the phone. this will hold the glass in place no matter what while it will also protect the phone.the case is in photos 17 and 18. i got this one of ebay for 8$ and free shipping.
the last thing to be done is:
for some reaseon the touch screen became much more sensitive after removing the glue so you need to lover the touch sensitivity. for this get the touchscreentune app from the market. it works with galaxy note and galaxy s2. put the sensitivity from the recomended 25 to 50.
the best thing about this procedure is that i dont have to worry about the f ing glass anymore. if it brakes again i'l just order another one and in under 2 minutes i can replace it. all i have to do is get the phone case off, put a suction cap on , , remove the old glass , and put the new glass. that's it.
because it takes 4 to 8 hours i would recommend the process to be done in 3-4 sessions as people would get tired after 2 hours of work and tend to lose focus, attention, patience and start to push to get it faster done, and that's when bad stuff happens like yellow spot burn on the screen or small scratches. another thing about scratches, even if u manage to scrach the screen dont worry to much as the scratches are almost invisible when the screen turns on. youl see what i mean ....
i do have one question: WHY DID SAMSUNG DECIDE TO GLUE THE SCREEN TO THE GLASS INSTEAD OF HAVING THEM SEPARATE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TOUCHPHONES?
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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anonymous572 said:
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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what kind of glue did you use? where did u get the glue from? how did u do it?
i didnt glue the glass back to the screen. i just put the glass on the frame. to fill the void where the glue was i trimed a regular screen protector and put it inbetween the glass and the screen. but it works same without it.
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
pboesboes said:
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
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Nothing is impossible with the right tool and know-how . The glue could probably be uncured with a heat gun, just like ipad. The challenge is not damage the panel and make sure it is dust free after put back the replacement.
It is said impossible because of the difficulty involved. If you can't manage to install a screen protector with perfect alignment and zero dust spike, this task is not for you.
@drevilatwork Thank you for writing this step by step guide!
I dropped my phone last night and it landed face down, cracking the glass.
I'm so upset, but I don't think I have the skills or the tools to do this job myself. I am relieved to learn that the glass can be replaced, but do you know whether the Samsung agents are likely to be able to do this?
they probably wont do it. but you can try showing this thread to some technician or phone repair shop and they might do it for you. they also might charge you a lot to the point where it might be more convenient to just buy a new 260$ screen.
looks scary dude
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
Its worth a try, since screen replacement costs 230 euros.
kawgirlval69 said:
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
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actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
Why different prices for all the same lenses in this shop ?
drevilatwork said:
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
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as i said good luck with it and hope you make some money doing it..... ive successfully done the same thing myself but other than it will never look good like a factory screen (not even close), the amount of time it takes to make it look anywhere near acceptable (not like a 10 dollar repair) is big and that makes the repair not really worthwhile doing it for anyone but yourself and even then who spends 700-800 dollars on something and does a repair that makes it look cheap... then theres the whole ordeal of the membrane youre taking the adhesive off of along with the HUGE chance of damaging it.. it is placed with precision and adhered for a reason along with being dust and scratch free... this is a repair that just wont last because things will start functioning improperly for multiple reasons...
im not knocking you or anyone who tries this..im just trying to emphasize the dangers, downfalls and the probability of it being a legit solid repair. also the resale value when the next greatest thing comes along... just beware....
Hmmmm
Well chaps I hate to disagree here, but after speaking to the technical bods at Samsung it appears that the OLED is NOT glued to the glass, but the glass is laminated and bonded in, much like a car windscreen. My screen got broken the other day and I have read the 2 posts on XDA regarding this. Now if you go and have a look at the pics of the other post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1487716
you can clearly see the OLED, although broken, seperated from the glass with no sign of any glue. The reason it broke is that upon heating the glass you will melt the glue, which will then stick to the edges of the OLED and if you pry it at the wrong place/time/too hard/whatever you will break the OLED as it is glued to the bezel itself. So when my glass arrives I am going to attempt to remove the glass using fishing line and pulling it between the glass and the bezel and OLED to release it, the same way as I used to remove car windscreens, and post the results here. I have also been told that the reason for the sticky "epoxy" mess that you encountered in this postis from melting the plastic on the back of the glass (which is the lamination!) by using too much heat.....I mean come on, a heat gun is a bit excessive!! Prying the screen out a bit at a time might work, but will surely end in tears, where as cutting the cold adhesive with a fine nylon cable, which wont scratch the OLED, might just work. I'll keep you posted on my results.
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
pboesboes said:
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
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this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
kawgirlval69 said:
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
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What do you mean? One of what?
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
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I know how a digitizer is made.
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
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I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
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The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
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I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
pboesboes said:
What do you mean? One of what?
I know how a digitizer is made.
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
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i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION...
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
kawgirlval69 said:
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
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The sentence made no sense considering what it was replying to. Not my fault you were unclear/ambiguous.
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
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Ok?
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
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Reading is very good, but you can't assume everyone in a public forum has read every single post of yours and remembers every detail. What isn't helping is the lack of proper punctuation and formatting which make your posts unpleasant to read.
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
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Replacement screens are generally OEM parts.
It might appear I'm in a hole, but that's only because I live in Holland and am below sea level. I assure you I haven't done any digging.
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
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I wasn't suggesting to use superglue or epoxy, read it again.
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION
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I get that, and appreciate your concern. However, you should understand that some people like to try things even when the chance of success is not very high. You seem to be one of us in that regard (you attempted repairs yourself too, right?), so I don't see why it upsets you so much.
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
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I don't care if you play nice or not. I appreciate honesty. Now for some honesty in return: you're not helping in this thread.
All you do is say people's ideas are stupid without giving arguments that aren't arguments from authority. And I would very much appreciate it if you would stop misrepresenting my posts (intentional or not).
I saw a few guys complaining about the scratched/bumped bezel which looks ugly because the paint will reveal the metal underneath.
Well, I also damaged my watch by accidentally hitting it . Permanent markers are not a good solution because they do not last.
Apparently the bezel is made out of aluminium and only the watch body is made out of steel, that why, maybe, the bezel is less resistant.
Last evening though, an idea came to my mind, which I also applied on the watch. The result is promising .
Using some fine sandpaper (600) and some real paper after that, I completely removed the paint from the top of the bezel.
As a technique, I laid the sandpaper on a flat surface (table) and then I pressed the watch on it while rubbing it. After the paint was completely removed, I did the same operation but using a regular sheet of paper (to add a nice finish on the metal surface).
Please be careful: you have to press the watch against the sandpaper (laid on a flat, hard surface), not the other way around. In this way you leave no room for mistakes and the revealed metal will be uniform and nice, w/o weird edges.
This is the result.
That actually looks really nice! I'm Impressed with it . Just out of Curiosity what watchface is that also as it suits the watch really well.
That's a custom watch face for WatchMaker (built by me). You can download it from here.
I'm not sure I have the b... sorry guts for this kind of job
First Hardware Mod!
That looks great! I know it's just a matter of time before I will need to do this. I have sanded/polished like this before and may I warn everyone:
Make sure you keep the sandpaper flat. If it rolls up under the face it will scratch the screen.​Better yet, only do this with a screen protector.
Really nice. You should offer your services for a fee, to do this for others afraid to do it themselves. Not that you'd offer any guarantees, but you have proof you know how to do it right .
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Wow that's a great fix for this. Showed the scratches on my bezel to the lg team at ces and they were surprised and would follow up with me after the show. They said they hadn't come across this issue (which I find hard to believe). Like you mentioned OP the bezel is aluminum and the lower parts are steel and seem to be much more durable paint wise.
I'm hoping they might send me a new watch with some better paint but if not I'm definitely going to use this method!
it does look good, however once you do this there is no going back ........
if you want a better finish you may want to try crocus paper after you have removed the paint on the bezel, crocus paper is very fine and may give a smoother finish.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocus_cloth
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the paint, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
ro_explorer said:
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the pain, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
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So very true.
I personally think that looks fantastic and a milliion times better than a scratched bezel. Mine hasn't recieved any scratches yet, but seeing your results, I'm no longer panicked about that happening.
Thank you for a great solution!
yes of course, I like the look of it too
How long have you had the watch since you did this? Is there any signs of corrosion on the exposed Aluminium?
ro_explorer said:
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the paint, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
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I did the operation on January 2nd (when I posted on the forum ). One full week passed since then .. no signs on the metal surface whatsoever (expected, it's aluminum and this does not corrode).
Here is a photo from today.
ro_explorer said:
I saw a few guys complaining about the scratched/bumped bezel which looks ugly because the paint will reveal the metal underneath.
Well, I also damaged my watch by accidentally hitting it . Permanent markers are not a good solution because they do not last.
Apparently the bezel is made out of aluminium and only the watch body is made out of steel, that why, maybe, the bezel is less resistant.
Last evening though, an idea came to my mind, which I also applied on the watch. The result is promising .
Using some fine sandpaper (600) and some real paper after that, I completely removed the paint from the top of the bezel.
As a technique, I laid the sandpaper on a flat surface (table) and then I pressed the watch on it while rubbing it. After the paint was completely removed, I did the same operation but using a regular sheet of paper (to add a nice finish on the metal surface).
Please be careful: you have to press the watch against the sandpaper (laid on a flat, hard surface), not the other way around. In this way you leave no room for mistakes and the revealed metal will be uniform and nice, w/o weird edges.
This is the result.
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Click to collapse
I've had my watch for a little over a week and don't recall hitting it against anything but this morning noticed my bezel has a scratch longer than half an inch. Doing a Google search brought me here.
I was going to try your method today. I understand using the 600 grit sandpaper to remove the rest of the paint from the bezel but how does the regular paper help the finish? My uneducated guess would have been to try a finer grit sandpaper such as 1200 instead of the paper.
You can use whatever finer than 600 you have (even coarser but you may risk it going coarser that that).
Unfortunately, 600 was the finest I had in house at the moment that why I used id. After that though, the metal finish was matte, missing that fine polishing .... there is where the regular paper got into action. If you use a regular laser printer paper sheet, it will act as a very very fine sandpaper, enough to give that fine polishing on the pure metal (aluminium in this case - soft metal, no other reason.
ro_explorer said:
You can use whatever finer than 600 you have (even coarser but you may risk it going coarser that that).
Unfortunately, 600 was the finest I had in house at the moment that why I used id. After that though, the metal finish was matte, missing that fine polishing .... there is where the regular paper got into action. If you use a regular laser printer paper sheet, it will act as a very very fine sandpaper, enough to give that fine polishing on the pure metal (aluminium in this case - soft metal, no other reason.
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You sir are a genius - your solution actually makes the watch look better than before the problem.
dzyuba said:
You sir are a genius - your solution actually makes the watch look better than before the problem.
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Please tell us what did you do exactly to the watch, step by step. Thanks.
My request to any other people who want to adopt this method, please record a video of the process. Then upload it to youtube and share it with us. Thanks.
The entire process that I used is described in detail in the first post of this thread.
There is also the possibility to use a nail file (there are some guys who did that and the results are quite nice as well).
Guys,
This looks fantastic. Perhaps even better than stock. I've got a 1/4" scratch, so not quite ready to take the plunge...but certainly thinking about it.
-Doc
I should probably post this here also. I managed to ding up my watch pretty badly crashing my skateboard, and a user suggested I try this method. I did it a little differently by finishing with a 3000 grit and using metal polish cream on the exposed metal to give it a nice shine. Here are before and after pictures.
The metal polish is definitely adding a nice touch. Thanks for the info.
// sent from my phone //
So I got my new Z3C and was thinking: what if we can make flaps and audio port more waterproof?
Doing pressure sensor test I get reading around 1000 and it's increasing by about 30-40 when I press against screen with closed flaps. But it normalizes after 1-2 seconds and goes back to initial reading meaning tiny amount of air escapes. Does it mean my phone is not totally waterproof? Don't know.
Since this phone is just fresh-water proof (meaning no using in pool or sea) and I really want to use it worry-free in all kind of water that I dare to go in myself I really want to improve waterproofness.
I'm not worried about front and back since glass should be all.kind-of-things-proof. This leaves sd card and sim card covers, audio jack, mic holes and speakers.
So what I thought of was to "grease" flaps' rubber o-rings with rubber compatible oil/grease to make better contact with phone body or use some kind of silicone spread around rubber contact area before closing flaps to have semi-permanent seal and be still able to open and scrub extra stuff off without doing much damage.
For audio jack I thought to make some kind of plug - like pressy button but with a bit bigger "head" that has soft sticky rubber underneath so when pressed in it makes a seal with the edge of audio jack or even plug that is covered with silicone all the way.
Speakers and mic holes could be protected with bits of strong adhesive tape - it's easy to get sticky stuff off the glass and it'll be possible to hear some sound even with speakers covered. Not sure about mic holes because side plastic has matte finish but some strong adhesive should still stick?
So the question - has anyone tried something remotely related? Is it thinkable? Have I missed anything important? What materials (grease, silicone) should I use?
If anyone has done something similar? Probably... But no one ever posted about it on this forum. You can use the phone in the sea and swimming pool, as long as you rinse the phone afterwards. As for modifying the phone, I wouldn't do it. It might cause you to lose your warranty.
In terms of waterproofing the phone even more, I'd look at waterproof cases made for other phones with almost similar dimensions and see if you can do something about the case instead.
Sent from my D5803
Dsteppa said:
You can use the phone in the sea and swimming pool, as long as you rinse the phone afterwards. As for modifying the phone, I wouldn't do it.
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Plenty of stories of people going in the water, damaging their phone and fighting with sony about warranty.
It's hardly modifying, adhesive sticker on glass is easily removed and thin film of silicone should be also easily removable.
Dsteppa said:
It might cause you to lose your warranty.
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Yeah... getting water inside causes that too.
Dsteppa said:
In terms of waterproofing the phone even more, I'd look at waterproof cases made for other phones with almost similar dimensions and see if you can do something about the case instead.
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That's the option. But I haven't seen any slim waterproof case that could be comfortably used all the time.
Anyway, curiosity is strong and I'll most likely try different options.
PS. can someone test pressure sensor - is reading staying high when screen is pressed or it fades back to normal with all covers closed?
I've just used mine in pool all weekends since I bought it without any issue and even without afraid of doing that! The same with my wife's Z1!
And I'm contantly opening/closing its usb port due my xposed modules development (debugging purposes)! Maybe some unlucky day I will screw it... who knows!
Ofc we always need to be sure all ports are properly closed before going to have fun!
kalamees1 said:
Plenty of stories of people going in the water, damaging their phone and fighting with sony about warranty.
It's hardly modifying, adhesive sticker on glass is easily removed and thin film of silicone should be also easily removable.
PS. can someone test pressure sensor - is reading staying high when screen is pressed or it fades back to normal with all covers closed?
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Sorry, I forgot about the pressure sensor part, it's normal that the numbers go back to normal after you lifted your finger, it works like that for everyone.
If my mind serves me right, I've seen Sony ads with the Z3C being thrown in a pool or something similar, so a pool really shouldn't be a problem. And yes of course people will have to fight for their cause at Sony, they won't just put any phone under warranty, else people would exploit that.
Dsteppa said:
Sorry, I forgot about the pressure sensor part, it's normal that the numbers go back to normal after you lifted your finger, it works like that for everyone.
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I probably expressed myself bit vaguely. Thing is that pressure reading on my phone returns back to normal WHILE HOLDING screen under pressure. Initially pressing screen creates greater pressure inside the phone, reading rises but air escapes quite quickly (1-2seconds) and pressure reading normalises. After releasing finger screen pressure sensor shows lower readings for a second until extra air seeps inside to equalise pressure again.
Hope it's clear enough.
Also, does it mean that I got less waterproof phone that it should be?
I dunno about you but i've been using my camera in the pool for a while now and even for hours at times
Sent from my D5833 using XDA Free mobile app
I've used mine under water as well. OP if you're really worried about it you can send it off to liquipel and have them make the phone even more waterproof