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I have the HTC dock for the ameo arriving monday / tuesday. I lll post pictures and comments for all that are interested.
Ordered from expansys £69
ade0282 said:
I have the HTC dock for the ameo arriving monday / tuesday. I lll post pictures and comments for all that are interested.
Ordered from expansys £69 with a second battery
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Have you noticed this ?
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=9256
GPSLessforLess cradle
Palmchen said:
Have you noticed this ?
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=9256
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That seems to be a charging and syncing station, rather than a full docking station (with its USB passthrough ports etc). Having said that, if it charges from the mains while connected with PC, as description implies, it will be exactly what I'm after. Not a bad price either. If it's the same one I saw a few weeks ago, the price has halved since then. Hmmm, might get two (home and work)...
EDIT:
No, the one I saw before was this:
http://www.gpsforless.co.uk/product_details.php?id=7558
With second battery slot. Doesn't seem to be available though. The other probably replaced it.
What is the function of earphone jack holes of station?
On the left side of Athena, there are three jack holes, i.e., earphone, miniusb, and vga out. However, the docking station only plugs into miniusb and vga out. It does not plug into earphone. However, there is a earphone jackhole on the right side of the docking station, but when I plug into that earphone jack hole, I did not get any sound from it. I can not use the original earphone jack hole either, because it was blocked when you set Athena into the docking station. I have a question that What is the function of earphone jack holes on the docking station if no sound coming out from it?
The audio output is also available from the mini USB connection on the Ameo, connection of a correctly wired addapter to the Ameo will mute the onboard speakers thus routing the audio to the addapter cable/ port etc. Either your unit is faulty or the dock unit is incorrectly wired -
When you dock the device try playing some music etc. on the unit and does it emmit any sound from its onboard speakers ? - Mike
I *DID* get two of the cheaper cradles for my Advantage. They plug into the mains with a supplied adapter (5V 1A) and the PC's USB.
The trouble is, the charging time seems to be as if it were charging from USB only - ie sloooow. This is despite the power light coming on when mains is connected (or when USB is connected). Does the USB charging override the mains charging? I've tried disabling the USB charging with a registry addition as described elsewhere, to no effect.
If I unplug the adapter the LED on the adapter remains lit for a very long time - several minutes at least. Even unplugging the USB and the adapter at the same time doesn't affect that - the LED on the adapter itself and the cradle remain lit, but the charging light on the Advantage goes out. Very peculiar.
For someone with a full docking station - how quickly does it charge? If it's at full mains speed I may upgrade to one or two of them (when finances permit) for syncing, and use these cheap ones as mere mains-only charging stations dotted around the house.
panvita said:
On the left side of Athena, there are three jack holes, i.e., earphone, miniusb, and vga out. However, the docking station only plugs into miniusb and vga out. It does not plug into earphone.
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The Athena mini-USB also provides Audio-out like all other new HTC devices. This would explain why the dock only connects to the mini-USB jack. However then, you should get some audio noise out of the dock's jack... this seems not to work...
I've got a problem when I plug my phone into my car stereo as well as cigarette adapter.
I'm also got a kind of custom setup.
Audio
Honda Civic Stock Stereo -> CD Changer to Aux Input Adapter -> 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter -> 2.5mm input on HTC Y adapter.
Power
Belkin Cig. Lighter to USB Female Port (From old iPaq) -> HTC Stock Sync/Charge USB cable -> MiniUSB input on HTC Y adapter.
So, when both the power and audio are plugged in, I hear a horrible hiss on my car stereo, not to mention a sound that varies in pitch to my throttle. When I unplug the power, the audio is completely clean. To me this seems like some kind of a grounding issue - to say that the Audio and Power both have seperate grounds, and bridging the two creates a potential difference in the form of noise on my Sound. Also to note: I only hear the noise when the Y adapter is plugged into the phone. With the audio and power plugged into the Y adapter, but the Y adapter not plugged into the phone, It's perfectly clean. I'm kind of baffeled.
The only solution I can think of is to gut the Belkin Power->USB adapter, and providing it from 12VDC elsewhere. I've got a tap directly below my passenger seat where I have a big power inverter tied to my battery. I don't know if I'd hear the same sound by grabbing my power from there.
Anyone with an engineering mindset have an idea? I'm open to suggestions.
If it was a grounding issue I would expect a buzz not a hiss...
Does it go away when you unplug the power and just leave the audio?
Go away or stay when the phone is unplugged?
It could be a bad adapter so maybe try another...
It goes away when I unplug the power, or unplug the phone. It's only present with audio+power both plugged into the phone.
I've tried powering it using the AC adapter and a power inverter - that sounds clean.
Fix?
I have the same problem and went out and bought a ground loop isolator from Radio Shack. It ran about 12.00 and it definitely got rid of the noise but unfortunately it noticeably affected the sound quality of my music and made it sound high pitched.
Perhaps buying a higher quality one will solve the problem. In the meantime, I've returned the isolator and just run on battery when listening to music. Perhaps I'll hit Ebay and see if there's a higher quality ground loop isolator.
Definitely a ground loop problem.
As devoe said, you can get a ground isolator and put in the audio line, but those are typically a simple transformer, and they often don't pass low frequencies very well.
You may be able to simply cut the ground going to the audio jack input. Not a perfect solution, but it sometimes works. But it usually requires a blocking cap in each channel. An experiment for sure.
A different power adapter might help. Or not.
You may also be able to add in a power plug that is wired directly to the radios ground and power. Then your power adapter plugged into that might have a ground that is close enough to the radio ground to not have a problem.
Me, I would open up the power adapter, and if it is a switcher supply with a transformer, see if I could isolate the ground.
I had the exact same issue. I believe it is called alternator noise.
01 Nissan Maxima with Eclipse AVN 5435 RCA hook up. When cigarette lighter and audio are both on, it makes the noise. I dont think it happened in the beginning but definitely happens now....
Luckily my Kicker 12L7 overwhelms the noise and allows me to tolerate it...somewhat.
When the audio wire and power wire are close to each other, this problem happens. Intead of using an isolator for audio wire reducing quality, try shielding your power wire instead. Might work but not very sure..
worwig said:
Definitely a ground loop problem.
As devoe said, you can get a ground isolator and put in the audio line, but those are typically a simple transformer, and they often don't pass low frequencies very well.
You may be able to simply cut the ground going to the audio jack input. Not a perfect solution, but it sometimes works. But it usually requires a blocking cap in each channel. An experiment for sure.
A different power adapter might help. Or not.
You may also be able to add in a power plug that is wired directly to the radios ground and power. Then your power adapter plugged into that might have a ground that is close enough to the radio ground to not have a problem.
Me, I would open up the power adapter, and if it is a switcher supply with a transformer, see if I could isolate the ground.
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What he said. The fact it alters in pitch with engine speed says it's alternator wine, which is related to grounding issues. I have a similar problem, but it's not a wine that follows RPMs, just a static like hiss. I need to dink around with the ground and see if I can get it.
I had a similar problem. I hadn't used my car audio for a while and when I started it up again, it was making horrible noises. I bought a new charger and had significant improvements. I'd recommend buying a charger from radio shack. If that doesn't fix it (or if you find it cheaper online), then you can return it.
If you can, verify the grounding cable on your cigarette lighter. Best thing you could do it to cut it and look for the nearest solid metal ground point in the lighter's general vicinity and ground it to that. Could be the stock ground on the plug.
I'm a car audio buff and my previous car, a 01' Camry had that issue when I charged my Creative Zen touch and played audio through it as well... Fixed it by re-grounding my lighter plug directly to the chassy, its just a matter of finding the right spot nearby to ground it with a good sized gauge wire, like 12 or 14 AWG.
I had a similar problem. I discovered that my problem was that the Mogul's CPU noise was conducting out the USB DC power cable and then coupling back through to my FM transmitter on it's DC power cable. I never was able to completely get ride of the noise. However, I was able to reduce it substantially by using a different USB 12VDC power source. USB hubs normally contain low pass filters on the USB power lines, so your mileage may vary.
The tick to solving your problem is to try different configurations by moving and disconnect wires. Often you can here noise variations that will indicate whether the noise is external to your system.
EMI is either conducted (ground loops) or radiated. Since audio is below 1MHz it is best if there is only a single ground point. Since you normally have multiple wires, ground loops are common, so keep your wires short and your devices close together.
Same trouble here, but on a Touch Pro...
Does the nook on-board regulator have current limiting? Or are the wall warts and car power adapters limiting the maximum current.
I know the standard usb ports limit to 500ma in most cases, but with the appropriate cable and connections, the nook will request the higher USB ratings, 1.9 amps on my stock wall wart and stock power cord.
Are car chargers built with usb sockets limited to some usb spec of 2 amps or so?
A simple 5 volt regulator in a car socket could theoretically supply 10-30 amps depending on its fusing.
What I am wondering is say, a gell cell or NiCd pack with high current ability could be connected to the nook, using the high power usb pins enabled to on would be safe, or would the Nook be expecting a limited power source.
I'm afraid if i connect a 5v 10A plus source like above, and there is no self current limiting, I might blow an internal fuse or input resistor.
I want to take the thing on a trip, and was hoping a battery pack in my bag with a female USB jack (the center two pins shorted, and the stock cable) would be able to charge the unit when away from both the AC and car power.
Thanks.
P.S. On a related note, do airlines now have 120 volt outlets at all seats so I could use my nook charger?
nerdful1 said:
Does the nook on-board regulator have current limiting? Or are the wall warts and car power adapters limiting the maximum current.
I know the standard usb ports limit to 500ma in most cases, but with the appropriate cable and connections, the nook will request the higher USB ratings, 1.9 amps on my stock wall wart and stock power cord.
Are car chargers built with usb sockets limited to some usb spec of 2 amps or so?
A simple 5 volt regulator in a car socket could theoretically supply 10-30 amps depending on its fusing.
What I am wondering is say, a gell cell or NiCd pack with high current ability could be connected to the nook, using the high power usb pins enabled to on would be safe, or would the Nook be expecting a limited power source.
I'm afraid if i connect a 5v 10A plus source like above, and there is no self current limiting, I might blow an internal fuse or input resistor.
I want to take the thing on a trip, and was hoping a battery pack in my bag with a female USB jack (the center two pins shorted, and the stock cable) would be able to charge the unit when away from both the AC and car power.
Thanks.
P.S. On a related note, do airlines now have 120 volt outlets at all seats so I could use my nook charger?
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Click to collapse
I'll answer the postscript first: Nope. It's a rare plane that has ANY 120 V outlets in coach. If you're willing to fork out the cash for first class it's probably a fifty-fifty chance.
nerdful1 said:
Does the nook on-board regulator have current limiting? Or are the wall warts and car power adapters limiting the maximum current.
I know the standard usb ports limit to 500ma in most cases, but with the appropriate cable and connections, the nook will request the higher USB ratings, 1.9 amps on my stock wall wart and stock power cord.
Are car chargers built with usb sockets limited to some usb spec of 2 amps or so?
A simple 5 volt regulator in a car socket could theoretically supply 10-30 amps depending on its fusing.
What I am wondering is say, a gell cell or NiCd pack with high current ability could be connected to the nook, using the high power usb pins enabled to on would be safe, or would the Nook be expecting a limited power source.
I'm afraid if i connect a 5v 10A plus source like above, and there is no self current limiting, I might blow an internal fuse or input resistor.
I want to take the thing on a trip, and was hoping a battery pack in my bag with a female USB jack (the center two pins shorted, and the stock cable) would be able to charge the unit when away from both the AC and car power.
Thanks.
P.S. On a related note, do airlines now have 120 volt outlets at all seats so I could use my nook charger?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As to the current limiting, yes, most car chargers are pretty low power, usually rated to an amp or so. It's pretty hard to find one that will match the stock wall wart in amps.
I would be careful of a simple linear regulator in a car charger, as you'd be dumping a lot of power directly to heat. Each amp of current would put 5 watts out the usb port and burn 7 watts in the regulator. Won't take long to start a fire that way.
Now, lithium ion batteries normally have pretty sophisticated charge control circuitry, as too rapid of a charge could cause it to burst into flames. If you decide to test your idea make sure you have a good class C fire extinguisher handy!
To update my airplane power question of years ago: Since then, I've been traveling a lot and have found USA 120 volt outlets in all planes. Both in 1st and cramped class.
Also on Amtrak train and busses.
Going to poke around with my retired Nook Color for ham radio and bench schematics, etc.
Hey all, I know this is a development area - but there is no General section for the G9... anyway...
I have an 80 Gen 9 original none hard drive none turbo which im installing in my car. So far it looks really really good - ill post a video when i finally get the facia on it. However I am struggling to keep up with the charge power wise.
I originally brought a tomtom microusb charger - which according to form puts out 1 amp (not enough). This works fine on my HTC evo 3d, but cant keep up with the power consumption of the 80. It does not show as a "slow" charger.
I then brought an adapter off ebay that has a 2.1a and a 1a port. These originally showed as slow, so I made an adapter cable shorting the data pins so it knows its a charger - but neither port can keep the thing powered, and both these and the tomtom 1 amp seem to discharge at the same speed while plugged in.
Im waiting on one from newmp3technology that is stated as a fast charger for the archos g9...
Now, on the device i have turned off bluetooth and wifi turned off, backlight always on at around 1/2 brightness, and i have it running an external laptop hard drive off the port on the back. GPS gets turned on when necassary - but doesnt really seem to negatively affect the power situation (which was kinda surpising). Ive set the maximum CPU usage at just 600mhz to try and kerb the power consumption also. While driving i have Poweramp continually playing, and have used copilot on and off for sat nav. It doesnt drop fast - but nor is it staying fully charged. Im sure I had no problems with this while on AC power in the house.
If anyone knows of a working fast charger, or has a suggestion I would be most greatful. I may between now and then test with an invertor and ac power supply. One other idea I have is to run the USB hard drive with a powered USB hub, to move the power consumption away from the device.
I believe there was one of those dual-usb chargers from Belkin, but knowing them the charger could be pretty expensive.
It also has one 2 amp and one 1 amp slot, though I have not tried it yet.
i have this
http://www.newmp3technology.com/francais/all-Archos-model-charger.htm
This is an other option www.newmp3technology.com/francais/archos-101-80-g9-cigar-split.htm
I also need to be able to run/ charge my 80G9 turbo on the road for long periods.
first the basics, the original Archos cable must be used to get max charge (its short and has the log like thing inline near tablet) every other cable/ wall charger I have tried will only give weak charge and if using tablet with other cable it may never charge at all *if you know this great, but everyday others have to find this out the slow or no charge way
now, that applies to the wall plug for sure but with a cigarette lighter usb adapter I'm not so sure you will get enough juice just with that cable. If there is a 12V adapter or complete plug and usb cord that gives full needed output, great. until its used and proven (real world) I don't know if it exist yet.
the best alternative may be to use a Power Inverter like one below, there are so many available I don't know if the ones with usb outlets would work, I have a cheap inverter I need to try but just with factory Archos wall plug & cable (I've used it in the past to power a hand grinder etc. with no problem, car battery stayed charged up even when vehicle was off)
http://www.amazon.com/Wagan-2003-6-...?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1329710122&sr=1-17
I use the original Wall-Charger that came with the Tablet in conjunction with an HTC USB Cable that came with my HTC Desire.
It's charging as fast as with the original Archos USB Cable.
Even the small Wall-Charger from the Desire charges the Tablet very fast.
OK Ive received the so called fast charger from newmp3technology and it registers as a slow charger using the original supplied cable from archos. It took 17 days to arrive... not particularly happy with newmp3technology.
Anyway, I have found that the tomtom charger does actually charge the system while it is active - even though its only a 1 amp charger and the system requires 1.5 amp. Over about a week of driving for approx 1.5 - 2 hours a day the charge has risen from 0% to 19%. I had a USB extension (no more than 1 meter long) in line with the charger and that actually slowed the rate of charge.
The system is active the whole time - usually playing music through power amp, and sometimes using GPS via copilot. Ill test again to see that it can still maintain charge with GPS running. These devices really only require a small amount of power - I used to run a full computer in car and that pulled a bunch of power.
Here's the general section
http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1511
No Probs - unfortunately that section did not exist when i created this thread...
Team,
First off, I want to say thank you for creating an amazing resource for these phones. I currently have a Galaxy S4 Active MF3. I bought the phone with the intent of using it in conjunction with my car stereo, which is a Pioneer 8500 BHS. I've paired this up with a Samsung MHL 2.0 adapter and ARLiberator. On top of this, I have installed a OBD-II bluetooth module in the car that also communicates with the phone. The end result is that the phone delivers full touch screen control of all apps on the phone, full bluetooth hands free calling, voice control, GPS (Tom Tom), Pandora, and most importantly, gives me a second dashboard where I can customize any gauge that the car did not offer stock, such as boost gauge, wideband air/fuel ratio, exhaust gas temperature, and a few other things. I'm using the full version of Torque to do this. It is amazingly useful, with one exception. The Samsung MHL adapter never lets the phone charge at more than 300 milliamps. The USB connection straight from the stereo charges at 900, and a 2.1 AMP charger with the Samsung cable will charge at 1900. However, regardless of the combination I use, the MHL always cuts this down to 300. This causes the phone to lose about 15-20% of it's charge every hour. For short trips, this is OK, but for longer trips, I can no longer use GPS, which is a big problem, as that's the whole reason I got the phone. Other users of the standard Galaxy S4 and this combination have been able to get around this issue by installing a ROM with Fast Charge enabled, which gives them 800 milliamps. This is just enough to let the phone be used and slowly charged at the same time.
I understand that currently we're limited to stock kernels with modifications layered on top (GoldenEye, ETC...), and that the Fast Charge code requires a kernel recompile in order to function. Is this correct? Do I have any other options? I've considered wiring in a wireless charger just to get the phone to charge on long trips, but I'm concerned that wireless charging in addition to the USB input and charge may cause the battery to overheat or reduce it's life.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance,
Matt
as far as I know, there is a possibility of welding a 100 Ohm (or just short circuit (more risky, but I've read that some guys using a standard usb cable with simple bypassed Data-wires in combination with the S4A)) between the D+ and D+ wires of the USB-Cable (should be the green and white wire within the cable). Regarding http://www.usb.org/developers/devclass_docs a resistance below 200 ohm is the sign for a dedicated charging cable/device.
I've seen a manual of an sgs user, having full loading speed in his car, using a modified cable. Unfortunately his manual is in German, u can find it here. All credits belong to him.
by the way, i am pretty sure u will find an similar manual within this xda-board using the right search patterns, cause It does not seem to be device related.
shaDNfro,
Thank you very much for your reply, but unfortunately the 'cable mod' will not work in this instance. The reason that it won't work is that the stereo needs the Data + and Data - for Audio and synchronization data being sent back to the headunit for broadcast, and the MHL blocks the D+ and D- resistance from reaching the phone. To verify this, I took a stock Samsung cable with a voltage inverter in the car, and wired the whole system up into the MHL adapater. The system still charges at 300 ma, despite the fact that I can plug the same cable going into the MHL directly into the phone and get 1900 ma. If I use a 'modded' cable without the inverter, then the MHL still charges at 300 ma, but AppRadio will not function, as it gets no signal from the data ports on the USB. To add insult to injury, the MHL input is a 12 pin interface, and shunting D+ and D- cables on the MHL output is dangerous, as the system is doing more with the 12 pins than a standard 4 pin USB. I really don't want to fry a 400+ dollar phone.
What we really need here is one of two things:
1. The ability to upload a recompiled kernel into the system (I know that we have a bounty on this and it's not going anywhere)
2. The ability to modify the input amperage without a recompiled kernel
I'm not sure if either of the above two things can be done. I'm either going to have to live with this or get a new phone.
If ANYONE has any other ideas, please let me know!
Matt
Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.
Vaiski said:
Is it possible to mod usb cable to take the power directly from car charger?
Connect usb chargin wires to car charger from phones end of usb??
Sent from my GT-I9295 using poor english.
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Vaiski,
That's not a bad idea! From some more of my recent research, it appears that I now have three options I can look into:
1. Vaiski's idea of adding a 2.1 AMP second USB line to the + and - phone input while cutting the current MHL + and - cable output. This would essentially allow the MHL to get its power from the stereo's USB input, and the phone to get its power from an external, high amperage USB line and still allow me to keep the data flowing between the phone, MHL adapter, and stereo. I've got a second 'generic' MHL adapter that I wouldn't mind cutting up to spare my $50.00 Samsung MHL adapter if this doesn't work. This wouldn't allow the system to get the full 1900 ma, but it should get me upwards of 300 ma, which is where I am now.
2. I can add a wireless charger into the mix. From what I've read, if you charge with USB and wireless charging at the same time, the wireless charging would take priority. This would give me the same results as option #1.
3. I can try using the samsung S4 Multimedia dock. It appears that the dock doesn't have the same voltage output limitations as the MHL adapter. It does cost $100.00, though, and it's rather bulky.
These are all really great ideas, but what really bothers me about all this is that it shouldn't be necessary. If Samsung/AT&T hadn't installed a bootloader kernel checksum, none of this would matter. I could simply put a custom kernel in and call it a day with my current hardware. Hopefully someone will crack the bootloader soon. That would really be the best option instead of being locked into 4.2.2.
Thanks again!
Matt
s4 active charging
mattb22 said:
Vaiski,
Thanks again!
Matt
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Click to collapse
I don't know whether or not you found a solution to your problem yet. I discovered same problem using stock charging cable and having Bluetooth, Wi-Fi amd GPS turned on, playing music through usb to a pioneer stereo.... no Bluetooth on stereo, but was using a BT hands-free device. Anyway, same problem as you, charger wouldn't keep up. Tried turning off Wi-Fi... had mobile hotspot turned on for wife's tablet, helped some but still drained faster than charged. A couple months ago, I couldn't find the factory charging/data cable and phone needed charging, so I tried a cable from one of those battery powered phone chargers, thing is only about a foot long, but phone said "charging" it went from about 30% to full in less than an hour, this phone has never charged that fast. I've experimented with it a bit, and it won't work as a data cable but it will keep up with everything turned on. I don't know if it's the length of the cable, or if the pins on the cable are different, in any case, try different cables, if you only need charge while your driving then the lack of data won't be a problem, though I liked being able to charge and listen to music at the same time, I'd rather know that my phone won't be dead when I get to the other end of a long road trip.... besides I figured out that a flash drive plugged into stereo plays music better.
Hope this helps