zoe sequence shots - One (M7) Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

hey guys ive taken a few shots with zoe but when i try to make a sequence shot it never pick the frames i want to use and doesnt give me the choice to choose the ones i want so is there a way to make zoe show more frames to choose from?

Related

what is the best resolution to contacts tab?

i have pictures to some of my contacts.
in the contacts tab they look very blury.
what is the best resolution for this function?
the best are 256x256 pixels, because builtin rom pictures of unknown callers has the same resolution
However, when in Contact Picture mode, the built in camera takes 240 x 320 pixels pictures, so I would gather this is more appropriate?
Try 240x240.
non of those, tried all.
I'm using 480*640 for favourite people... Beautiful and very crisp...
If you sync contact pictures from outlook you can change it from Favourite people screen soft "menu" key..
I use many size, dependin on what picture i have. Myself, I use resolution range from 98x98 to anything bigger.
Then the Trick is, you don't add picture at Outlook, but instead, add picture at TF3D contact. That will get make picture stay very clear and sharp.
I do found that, contact I add with picture resolution at 98x98 (or something around that, i have both 98x98, 99x98, etc) stays clear after I flash rom and need to re-add people. Bigger resolution picture i added that were sharp and clear; some became blury after re-add.
sudsboy said:
the Trick is, you don't add picture at Outlook, but instead, add picture at TF3D contact. That will get make picture stay very clear and sharp.
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
great!!! that works.
There is a much easier way of doing this than resizing. You don't have resize any picture. I had the same problem until I discovered this very straight forward way.
1. Go photos and videos section of the touchflo.
2. click on the image you want to add to the a particular contact.
3. click on the image again once it appears by itself.
4. click on the icon on the far right, the menu icon.
5. select Save to Contact.
6. Choose the contact you want to assign the picture to.
You will have a very crisp picture.
Another method is this:
1. Go to the people section of your touchflo.
2. Add the contact you want to have appear there.
3. It will prompt to add a picture to the contact.
4. select one.
This will also appear as crisp.
If you already have the contact there all you simply change the picture using the menu. That should do it.
Thank you - that indeed works and the 3d pictures look nice and crisp.
Beats me what strange algorithm is behind that, but as long as it works...

HELP PLEASE?? Contact Photo Related

Guys,
What should i do to make the contact photo in my diamond looks bright like in htc.com (the demo).
Already photoshoped the photos and no matter how great and how bright i edited the photo, but still in the contact section of touchFLO 3D the photo looks blur.
ocipalla said:
Guys,
What should i do to make the contact photo in my diamond looks bright like in htc.com (the demo).
Already photoshoped the photos and no matter how great and how bright i edited the photo, but still in the contact section of touchFLO 3D the photo looks blur.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suggest:
1. Low resolution of the picture (120x160 pixels is the size I believe)
2. Use High contrast to make clearer.
thanks.....i'll try that....
ocipalla said:
thanks.....i'll try that....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wrong!
Contact photo picture should be 256x256 pixels!
MOD: Please post in relevant forums. This is ROM Development!
ok thanks....sorry about the wrong thread in wrong section thing ..
Go to the picture you want to set with HTC Album. If you want you can zoom in on the picture to crop. Then you can choose "save in contacts" (or something like that: i have a Dutch device) by pressing the right menubutton.
Your contactspicture will be set in the right resolution now!
finally, it works....thanks guys......

Advice on how to make background fit

Can someone advise me how to get pictures from my pc to fit on the today screen rather than the mosaic effect it produces. i would really appreciate some help on this as it is doing my head in
Cheers in advance
Think you have to edit the pics at your PC using Gimp or anything similar.
Make it at least screensize (That is 800 x 480). Notice tehre is a difference if you set the picture in landscape mode or portrait mode. Not the full picture can be display because taskbar cuts off some space (And softkey labels, too). Don't know how much that is, but certainly not more than 100px.
That's easy.
Use 800 x 800 pictures,
the same size as DEFAULT, preloaded pics on X1.
This way on HORIZONTAL view the part of the pic will be displayed without need to repeat it.
Understand: having 800 x 480 pic makes device repeat it to fill the 800 size in horizontal view.
Hope I'm clear.
shaunyboy19 said:
Can someone advise me how to get pictures from my pc to fit on the today screen rather than the mosaic effect it produces. i would really appreciate some help on this as it is doing my head in
Cheers in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1) Find the two images within the windows folder called
stwater_480_800 and stwater_800_480
2) Understand that st_water_480_800 is the portrait picture
3) Understand that st_water_800_480 is the landscape picture
4) Create your own custom images with matching or corresponding pixel resolutions: 480_800 and vice versa
5) Replace these st_water files with your custom images
6) Don't worry about replacing the st_water files... st_water files are never original files, so you do not need to back them up.
poetryrocksalot said:
1) Find the two images within the windows folder called
stwater_480_800 and stwater_800_480
2) Understand that st_water_480_800 is the portrait picture
3) Understand that st_water_800_480 is the landscape picture
4) Create your own custom images with matching or corresponding pixel resolutions: 480_800 and vice versa
5) Replace these st_water files with your custom images
6) Don't worry about replacing the st_water files... st_water files are never original files, so you do not need to back them up.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hew was asking about TODAY not SE Panel,
AFAIK,
so your instruction is not relevant.
doministry said:
Hew was asking about TODAY not SE Panel,
AFAIK,
so your instruction is not relevant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually that is for the TODAY screen. Unless there is such thing as the TODAY Panel? Or you just mean default?
That instruction is correct.
stwater_480_800.jpg is Portrait and stwater_800_480.jpg is Landscape. Just replace them with your picture and you will be set...
doministry said:
Hew was asking about TODAY not SE Panel,
AFAIK,
so your instruction is not relevant.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol lol lol
the easiest way and the best way, is to make all images 800x800, browse to the folder using the pictures and video application, tap and hold the pic with the stylus until a menu appear and click on 'set as today background'
then set the transparency according to your needs, set it to 0% if you want the full pic to show as it is, then click ok
this is the best way to set your wallpaper in windows mobile
if your image is 800x800 then you have no issues with portrait or landscape
this method can set wallpapers in both L & P using one image as long as the image is at least 800x800, and yes you can use any pic
using this method you do not need to replace anything, this is a waste of time >>>stwater_480_800.jpg is Portrait and stwater_800_480.jpg
spikegotti said:
using this method you do not need to replace anything, this is a waste of time >>>stwater_480_800.jpg is Portrait and stwater_800_480.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really, doing that makes the background look the way you please.
Instead of random way the winmo decides to display the 800x800 image, all out of focus and all over the place. Maybe the pictures of sky will look great but a picture of Megan Fox will look terrible!
DeeChan said:
Not really, doing that makes the background look the way you please.
Instead of random way the winmo decides to display the 800x800 image, all out of focus and all over the place. Maybe the pictures of sky will look great but a picture of Megan Fox will look terrible!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no dude, obviously when u scale the pic to 800x800 you make sure her face would be center, then when u set it as wallpaper, adjust the box around the image in landscape mode, bcos obviously its already set centered in portrait once u made her face center b4 u scaled the image...btw megan fox aint getting no free marketing from me, she aint family to me so i aint want her face on my x1 lol that goes for any celeb
also note that this method allows you to move the box to set the image as you like,
now why would a person want to rename and replace images every single time i want to set a wallpaper?
i for one change my wallpaper almost everyday,on both my laptop and x1, and i do have tons of images on my memory card, changing a wallpaper should not be such a hard task as renaming and replacing, it should be simply selecting and adjusting
this method u can change a wallpaper in less than 6 seconds
the sony ericsson panel now is where u have no choice but make both P & L
in my opinion, making P & L 480x800 and 800x480 images for wallpapers is too much of a hassle and i would only do that if i wont be changing wallpapers for a long long long long time
DeeChan said:
Not really, doing that makes the background look the way you please.
Instead of random way the winmo decides to display the 800x800 image, all out of focus and all over the place. Maybe the pictures of sky will look great but a picture of Megan Fox will look terrible!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
agreed!
tried different resolutions...the best is 1280x800. Try it. no problem in landscape mode. 800x800 doesn't work well at all!!! it goes center in portrait mode but not in landscape mode
Haha, I never thought about this, because I have been using only one wallpaper since I got the device - pure black!
Let me point out a very nice app called "picture resizer" that helps a lot.

Possible to save Zoe mode pictures as video

Guys, I'm wondering if we can save Zoe mode captured mini-clip as video?
By default it capture about 3sec of mini-video and we can choose which frame to save as picture file. Can we save the whole 3sec clip as video?
Can't find any options for this feature
akimoto7811 said:
Guys, I'm wondering if we can save Zoe mode captured mini-clip as video?
By default it capture about 3sec of mini-video and we can choose which frame to save as picture file. Can we save the whole 3sec clip as video?
Can't find any options for this feature
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does save as video. If you try out quickpic, youll see all your zoes expanded with a zoe.mp4 attached with them.
mettleh3d said:
It does save as video. If you try out quickpic, youll see all your zoes expanded with a zoe.mp4 attached with them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ahhh....i can see the .mp4 now
THANKS mett great help here.

Extracting Both Images from P9 Dual Camera

Hi All,
I am trying to test some image analysis applications with the Huawei P9. Is it possible to extract two images (one from each camera) from a single shot? I know one of the cameras has a monochrome lens, and I know how to obtain just the monochrome image, but it would be extremely valuable if I could obtain both images from just one shot.
Looking forward to your assistance,
Josh
I do not want to stop your enthusiasm, but from my tests, they don't exists two images from one shot.
I didn't do my tests with an engineering approach, I only did some empirical test and from these I gather that:
- when you setup the Monochrome mode, the P9 activates the left camera (on the left when facing the phone back)
- with all the other modes, the P9 activates the right camera (the one between the flash and the left camera)
The P9 doesn't create 2 images, than combine them, it just shot always 1. How I came to this conclusion? You can also try it at home:
I choosen few static subject and I made my photos with the phone on tripod, than I did many photoshoots in the normal way and also by covering alternately the 2 cameras with a black scotch tape.
Even by naked eye, even by using an image comparation software (I used Beyond Compare from Scooter Software) I found no difference at all, no more brightness, no more contrast, no better image definition.
I did in a bright environment, in a dark one, I enabled and disabled the PRO mode and I tried to do a testing more complete as I could (honestly, I omitted to test the image in RAW mode, I tested only JPEGs), but my conclusion is that the 2 cameras are doing a different job, but they are definetely NOT working together.
Thanks for testing, but did you also try this outside on a landscape view? Maybe then we will see other results?
Otherwise this is yet ANOTHER thing Huawei lied about.
Yes, I did.
I'm thinking about making a full post about photo comparation. Let's see
ScareIT said:
Yes, I did.
I'm thinking about making a full post about photo comparation. Let's see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be nice!
Hey guys. I did a quick test shooting in bokeh mode or aperture effect (I guess you know what I mean). If you cover the black and white lense it lets you shoot the picture BUT NOT edit the depth of field once you took the picture.
If you uncover the lense, it works like it is supposed and also stores the depth information (two lenses are crucial to get depth information).
Thus, in order to extract two images from one shot, the best guess is that you try it in bokeh mode. But even then I dont know if its possible. However, the phone definitely uses both lenses that time.
Great oTToToTenTanz!
I confirm that! Both cameras are essential to enable the wide aperture effect: when you try to shoot in the bokeh mode it appear an alert to check if the lens is clear, the blurred effect disappears and it's impossible to edit the depth in post-production.
I make 2 hypothesis:
- the phone really combines the 2 pictures in order to recreate the depth (is a strategy used in all the 3D cameras), so in some way there should be the possibility to get both pictures
- the phone uses the laser pointer to shot IR around the subject, then the monochrome camera will get the infrared information (and considering that its lens is without the RGB filter, will be very efficient to do that) and store them in order to obtain an accurate depth (I mean something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgrMVp7fMIE)
Nice things to try!
Additional Info on Depth
oTToToTenTanz said:
Hey guys. I did a quick test shooting in bokeh mode or aperture effect (I guess you know what I mean). If you cover the black and white lense it lets you shoot the picture BUT NOT edit the depth of field once you took the picture.
If you uncover the lense, it works like it is supposed and also stores the depth information (two lenses are crucial to get depth information).
Thus, in order to extract two images from one shot, the best guess is that you try it in bokeh mode. But even then I dont know if its possible. However, the phone definitely uses both lenses that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey oTToToTenTanz,
Really appreciate your (and everyone else's) help on this! Can you give me some more info on how you actually extract the depth info in a usable form e.g. a matrix? Does the image just produce an RGB-D image once saved?
Thanks so much,
Josh
Yes unfortunately I think this is simply a feature that huawei lied about. The phone doesn't actually use both lenses at the same time to produce better quality normal photos; the monochrome lens is only used for bw mode or to obtain depth information for the wife aperture mode. The two lenses are not used in conjunction to provide better low light performance. You can try it yourself as stated earlier in the thread, cover the bw lens with your finger and compare the photos with normal ones: they'll look the same...
As far as I understand it, there are two cases in which both cameras are used.
One is for the wide-aperture ("bokeh") mode, in which a depth map is created from both pictures that have a slightly different perspective. I've read somewhere that the resulting image is a normal JPG file that is way too large, so it seems that there is additional data after the end of the actual JPG image. This would also explain why the capability to adjust depth of field is lost once the file is opened and saved by any application. I'll have a look at such a file when I have some spare time; maybe I'll find out more.
The other case is landscape shots in low light. Several people reported that covering the second camera in this scenario results in much darker images. This seems like a silly limitation, but I believe I understand why it's there. The two images that the cameras take differ in perspective (obviously, due to the fact that the cameras are mounted next to each other), which is quite difficult to adjust for when trying to combine both sensors' data. However, when focusing at infinity, for example when taking landscape shots, the difference in perspective is negligible, so that in this case the two sensors' data can be easily combined to improve low-light performance.
Maybe it would be possible to combine both sensors' output at closer distances in a satisfactory way, but it seems that Huawei chose not to implement that. If I find a way to extract the second sensor's data from a wide-aperture image, I'll poke around a bit to see if it would be possible to combine them.
I did some poking around on my lunch break. I threw a wide-aperture image into JPEGsnoop and it came up with two images in the file (four if you count the thumbnails, as well), the first one being the processed, "bokeh" image, while the second is the original color image without any processing. I assume that this is the image that is used to re-process the wide-aperture image when editing the focus point or aperture through the gallery app.
JPEGsnoop also told me that there's more data after the image segments. Since it couldn't work out what that data is for (this is past the end of the actual JFIF file), I checked it out using a hex editor. I found a marker "edof" (extended depth-of-field?) followed by what looks like some header data, followed lots of repeating bytes. This block is about 1/16 the size of the image in pixels (so 1 byte for each 4x4 pixel block). I'm not sure whether that's a small greyscale version of the image itself or a depth map, but I suspect it's the latter.
So, I'm afraid that it will be impossible to extract the monochrome image sensor data from a wide-aperture image, as it's not there anymore.
PerpulaX said:
I've read somewhere that the resulting image is a normal JPG file that is way too large, so it seems that there is additional data after the end of the actual JPG image. This would also explain why the capability to adjust depth of field is lost once the file is opened and saved by any application. I'll have a look at such a file when I have some spare time; maybe I'll find out more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I confirm that: I did few shots on a single subject (always using tripod);
- the pictures in normal mode and with wide aperture with the BW camera covered results in 2.5 MB weight (max resolution; the photo's Title/Subject/Description is marked as "edh"
- the same subject in wide aperture mode (with the BW camera fully working) results in 5.5 MB weight (more than double); the photo's Title/Subject/Description is marked as "edf"; if this photo is opened with some image editing software, no alpha layers or other visual information appears anywhere; if the photo is saved back, the size will became comparable to the same photo without wide aperture effect
As depth information are not appearing in any editing software, I suppose they are hidden inside the jpeg file with some kind of steganography technique. I tried to examine the file with some ready-to-use tool (like stegdetect, that should be capable to detect if a jpeg file is standard or has something hidden) but I get only some mismatching header error, nothing that can let me understand where and how the depth information are stored and, primarily, if the black and white picture is also stored inside.
The cam seems to be making two Images for every shot. You can for - instance - make a picture and then edit it with the onboard effects. If i make the picture e.g. partially B&W, I can see, that it does use an original B&W picture taken with the original shot. This is not an artificial B&W.
The question is, where it is stored or are the necessary informations only "combined"?
PerpulaX, ScareIT you guys are right,
- the 992x744 depth map is coded on 8 bits at the end of the file, use HxD editor to extract the image (check the tags in ascii code "edof" & "DepthEn" ).
- displayed jpg is the saved one after blur processing on your sd card
- hidden jpeg in exif is the original image shot , without blur processing.
So it explains why you can re-edit your picture anytime on your P9 even after renaming... or simply have fun with the depth map for detouring in photoshop for instance
Made a python script to automate the EDOF and image extraction. It's simple but it works.
https://github.com/jpbarraca/dual-camera-edof
zoubla88 said:
PerpulaX, ScareIT you guys are right,
- the 992x744 depth map is coded on 8 bits at the end of the file, use HxD editor to extract the image (check the tags in ascii code "edof" & "DepthEn" ).
- displayed jpg is the saved one after blur processing on your sd card
- hidden jpeg in exif is the original image shot , without blur processing.
So it explains why you can re-edit your picture anytime on your P9 even after renaming... or simply have fun with the depth map for detouring in photoshop for instance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you explain what is possible to do in post-process? What can I do with the photo?
You can do exactly the same thing as the Huawei gallery app (at least).
For Photoshop there are plenty of tutorials using Depth Maps with the Lens Blur plugin
ScareIT said:
Yes, I did.
I'm thinking about making a full post about photo comparation. Let's see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Waiting for more details and experience sharing from you
Tijauna said:
Yes unfortunately I think this is simply a feature that huawei lied about. The phone doesn't actually use both lenses at the same time to produce better quality normal photos; the monochrome lens is only used for bw mode or to obtain depth information for the wife aperture mode. The two lenses are not used in conjunction to provide better low light performance. You can try it yourself as stated earlier in the thread, cover the bw lens with your finger and compare the photos with normal ones: they'll look the same...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hy!
I think, that P9 does take two pictures and combines them in low light conditions. Here is two example, when something went wrong with the combination of images, and the two images becomes visible: https://goo.gl/photos/cK5q2TEisEU7rmpz9
What do you think?
Abel
So the file size is increased when B&W is uncovered but gives no actual benefit to the picture? Damn it, as useless as Interpolation!

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