Hey, I'm looking at replacing my USB flex cable (consisting of buttons, microphone, micro usb port, antenna connector) due to it being defective. However, I used to have a i9100, where replacing this part was very difficult as the reception would suffer if you didn't get the right revision of the board. Some had to resort to cutting (!) the board, and sort of create Frankenstein's board, that actually worked...
Do any of you know if this is the case with i9295? I'm looking for a replacement on ebay, and there are many different revisions and versions out there.
some vendors sell their boards as compatible with both i537 and i9295, while others say their part is only compatible with one of the two
there seem to be two different designs for button layout, as seen in one of the attached pictures. My menu key is way lower than the other two, while the other design available has them in line. Is this a less important difference than it seems? I would think that the buttons wouldn't function properly, if I had to guess based on the images. Some boards sold as i9295-compatible has that design...
As seen in the pictures, my board is rev12a 0510.
Would I need a specific revision, or are the i9295/i537 boards all compatible with each other?
(I've tried asking most every vendor on ebay, but most don't know/understand what I'm asking)
Mks1001
Edit: I've tried contacting Samsung tech support and other repair facilities, but none of them could give me any information. None of them actually repaired the phone. If no external damage was found they would simply replace the device.
Related
Hey guys,
I've been struggling with my N1 power button for a while now until in August it finally failed and my device wouldn't turn on anymore.
Since I bought my phone in Germany I hesitated to send it in. Not HTC is responsible for the warranty, but the seller himself. Anyway, I mailed them, sent it in, but they denied to repair it. They said some bull***t about me braking the camera. So I talked to legal protection insurance and they asked me whether I'd prefere to sue the trader or if I want to get 220 Euro back from them instead (because obviously suing would be much more cost intensiv for the insurance then paying 220 Euro). So I decided to take the money and either buy a new phone or try to fix the power button myself. And that's what I did.
I dissembled the phone and tried to solder the broken connections following this (http://youtu.be/k74D4dGGf4U) awesome guide myself. I do not have a lot of experience with stuff like this but I thought since I had already gotten the money "back" and the phone was not working I could at least try.
I did try and I did break the rest of the power button. So know I am not sure what to do. I see two options and very much would like other users comments on what I should do.
Try to sell the other components (screen, battery, logic board) and buy a new phone.
Replace the entire board with the camera, the led and the power button.
Ad 1.) Where would you sell the components? Ebay? Any other specific website?
And also, can you suggest phones to consider. I haven't followed the "android market" for a couple of months since it was not clear what would happen to my N1. I could buy a new N1 for about 210 Euro. Or a Nexus S for about 200. Are there any new phones that can compete with the nexus one in terms of openness, processing power, battery life & built quality? Or is the N1 still the best deal (especially for that price, I don't want to spend much more then the 220 Euro, I just got back).
Ad 2.) I've looked online, there are plenty of sources to replace the board with the flex cable ribbon. They range from 17 to about 70 Dollar. The difference seems to be that the ones are without camera, while the others come with a new camera.
Since my camera was working just fine I was wondering if it's possible to use my camera on another motherboard (I think that's the adequate name of the board I am talking about, right?). I couldn't find any reports online, but there is a spare part, which indicates, that it is very possible. Has anyone tried to replace a camera? Did it work? Is there a tutorial online?
Over all, I would very much prefere the second option. I have used my N1 only for roughly a year. I got the N1 dock. And over all, it would only cost about 30 bucks and a couple of hours. Also I would not have to buy a new phone and produce unnecessary technical waste.
So I'm very much looking forward to all your comments and help. For me that's a huge project. I haven't done hardware "hacking" before, so I will need all the help I can get.
Cheers, Armin
repair it.
Replacing the flex cable is not extremely difficult (medium diff.), and the chinese sellers in ebay will often bundle the tools required to open the N1's case.
By the way, the flex cable is not the mainboard, it's the cable that connects different modules (camera, led) and buttons (volume, power) to the mainboard, replace it, plug your camera and led modules to the new flex cable, make sure all connections are tight and your N1 will be as good as new!
I just repaired my N1, and I cannot tell you how awesome it felt when this little beast came back to life after months!
hey trschober,
thanx a lot for your reply. could you elaborate on how to switch the camera? it seems like it's only held in place by the bent metal. but i don't want to "force it out" since i dont want to break the camera (expensive).
does it come off easily?
also i didn't even know i could take off the led module. but now that i had a look at it it seems like i can just "pop off" the white rectangle.
awesome, i'm really excited right now!
well, i'll just order the part. we'll see how it goes.
I've never had to replace the camera, but from ifixit's pictures it is held in place by some sort of metal clip. There must be a place that you can push to get the camera module out without forcing it.
I can open my N1 on monday to check the proper way to unmount the camera module, but I doubt that you have to force it out, these electronic things don't work that way.
Yes, the led module just pops off, just be careful no to scratch the led itself, or the light will get blueish.
The hardest part of replacing the flex cable is popping off the bottom part of your N1, just use the proper _plastic_ tools to open it, or you will scratch the case. once you disconnect the connectors, the flex cable just slides upwards and out.
so I blew out my microphones on the phone with some compressed air, and completely destroyed them both. I took the phone apart and ordered a new daughter board for $75 bucks. Now here is the issue, the new daughter board doesn't have an antenna cable connector that is located next to the volume rocker side, like the original one did. if you look on ifixit or even youtube teardown videos the daughter board is different than the one I had originaly.
My thoughts are I had a first generation daughter board?
I don't need this cable anymore?
does anyone know what this antenna cable is really for?
the phone works fine... other then the front facing camera doesn't work anymore. and I haven't tried the Bluetooth.
please help lol
razor1234mike said:
so I blew out my microphones on the phone with some compressed airYou should lookletely destroyed them both. I took the phone apart and ordered a new daughter board for $75 bucks. Now here is the issue, the new daughter board doesn't have an antenna cable connector that is located next to the volume rocker side, like the original one did. if you look on ifixit or even youtube teardown videos the daughter board is different than the one I had originaly.
My thoughts are I had a first generation daughter board?
I don't need this cable anymore?
does anyone know what this antenna cable is really for?
the phone works fine... other then the front facing camera doesn't work anymore. and I haven't tried the Bluetooth.
please help lol
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You disassembled the HTC one? Respect...
Well, I don't know if there are different hardware revisions, but I'd just say that the sprint version uses different hardware.
It isn't exactly unusual that us carrier versions of a phone have different internal hardware.
You should try finding an appropriate daughter board for your device.
I have a Razer Phone 2 with the infamous non-working USB C port. There seems to be very little supply for the board itself unless it's a used part and those seem to be farelt expensive. Looking at a teardown video of the phone it looks as though the port itself is attached to a flimsy ribbon type cable attachment. If anyone has any experience with this specific part could you please tell me if there are solder points that could be either reconnected or replaced with a completely new port without replacing the whole board? A friend of mine has a a fair bit of know how when it comes to doing repairs of this sort, but I'd hate to take it apart to try and replace the port it self and risk damaging the seal of the device for no reason at all if this procedure is not even possible without a replacement of the full part. Thank you in advance for any replies. I know this question might be a long shot, but we are just trying to weigh our options and figured someone on here might have the experience to point us in the right direction.
murderfacexx87 said:
I have a Razer Phone 2 with the infamous non-working USB C port. There seems to be very little supply for the board itself unless it's a used part and those seem to be farelt expensive. Looking at a teardown video of the phone it looks as though the port itself is attached to a flimsy ribbon type cable attachment. If anyone has any experience with this specific part could you please tell me if there are solder points that could be either reconnected or replaced with a completely new port without replacing the whole board? A friend of mine has a a fair bit of know how when it comes to doing repairs of this sort, but I'd hate to take it apart to try and replace the port it self and risk damaging the seal of the device for no reason at all if this procedure is not even possible without a replacement of the full part. Thank you in advance for any replies. I know this question might be a long shot, but we are just trying to weigh our options and figured someone on here might have the experience to point us in the right direction.
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I have the same problem. And since sending it back to Razer( don't get me started on how much there customer support sucks!) would cost more than buying a used phone 2. I am thinking to replace the port. Did you have any luck?
I work in a repair shop where I get these from time to time. You can try a used charge port board, but that doesn't always fix it and that seems to be a temporary fix. I have yet to find the root cause of the charging bootloop on the nearly dozen rp2's I have
I have a samsung galaxy note 9 on sprint currently, the phone was dropped and smashed but not too a unrepairable extent. I currently put a new battery, charger port, and wireless coil. The phone won't charge still unless I use my s20 ultra as a wireless charger which says its charging but I cannot get a light, vibration, or any screen activity so I'm guessing the motherboard is most likely toast. There is no water damage and I will be replacing the screen glass I was hoping I could get a image before I ordered one lol but the real question is the phone is on sprint I was wondering if I can purchase a N960F international model motherboard and use it in the N960u shell. I want exynos for the simplicity of rooting. Also The charger port I installed was off ifixit and labeled for the n960u, n960f, n960fd but read somewhere there's a difference in charging ports? Any information is greatly appreciated. This phone will most likely be used on AT&T
Does anybody have any insight on this issue?
I you dropped and made damage anything, i guess you might have the same issues, but otherwise if motherboard fits in place correctly it should work, the F variant is exynos ad should work with all networks, and sure you can root it.
No guarentee it will be a pin for pin swamp or that the subassembly components/firmware will be compatable.
I think it's unlikely to work.
You need someone that did it to know for sure otherwise it could be a big lick on you. Even if it's possible no guarantee the replacement mobo is good or won't be damaged during installation (think ESD). If you had all the major components you have little to lose otherwise you might be kicking a dead horse.
With that much damage buying a working one with the right configuration be a better bet...
blackhawk said:
No guarentee it will be a pin for pin swamp or that the subassembly components/firmware will be compatable.
I think it's unlikely to work.
You need someone that did it to know for sure otherwise it could be a big lick on you. Even if it's possible no guarantee the replacement mobo is good or won't be damaged during installation (think ESD). If you had all the major components you have little to lose otherwise you might be kicking a dead horse.
With that much damage buying a working one with the right configuration be a better bet...
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I'm sure to be careful with my electronics, but you are right. Looking at tons of pictures the motherboards seem identical in size, all the parts I bought said they were compatible with both models ill be using all n960u parts other than the motherboard. I read somewhere the charger flex is different but I can't see or find any ones that are different, also same for the cameras. This will be a pretty sweet experiment I guess. If they screen works the cracks in the display aren't too bad that it wouldn't be usable. I'd save about 80$ (if I don't buy a bdot replacement) all in all spending about 200$ in replacement parts. Not too bad if you ask me. Considering it's my gfs old phone that she didn't end up paying off since it broke I don't think it'll be a bad deal
I'll be sure to update any progress I have the motherboard will be in around the 15th of march
I changed my mind, perhaps rubber conectors are different?
Alboooz said:
I changed my mind, perhaps rubber conectors are different?
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What rubber connectors?
Mikeyx898 said:
What rubber connectors?
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Screen, camera or USB connection cable might be different size or location.
Boards may look same but their functionality may differ as both boards have different CPUs. snapdragon variat have FM radio enabled so 3.5mm jack may have different port configuration same goes with cameras and so on..... Best is to buy a exynos variant F model.
Mikeyx898 said:
I'm sure to be careful with my electronics, but you are right. Looking at tons of pictures the motherboards seem identical in size, all the parts I bought said they were compatible with both models ill be using all n960u parts other than the motherboard. I read somewhere the charger flex is different but I can't see or find any ones that are different, also same for the cameras. This will be a pretty sweet experiment I guess. If they screen works the cracks in the display aren't too bad that it wouldn't be usable. I'd save about 80$ (if I don't buy a bdot replacement) all in all spending about 200$ in replacement parts. Not too bad if you ask me. Considering it's my gfs old phone that she didn't end up paying off since it broke I don't think it'll be a bad deal
I'll be sure to update any progress I have the motherboard will be in around the 15th of march
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Any update? did u successfully swap the motherboards?
Munawar Mehmood said:
Boards may look same but their functionality may differ as both boards have different CPUs. snapdragon variat have FM radio enabled so 3.5mm jack may have different port configuration same goes with cameras and so on..... Best is to buy a exynos variant F model.
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On the Note 10+ there are 2 Snapdragon C port PCB variants that look identical but are completely incompatible and not interchangeable.
Any update on this swap?
Hello,
has anyone successfully managed to replace USB-C port on S20 FE (G780F/DS)? I tried two different replacement boards and phone always refuses to charge with them -- reporting too high temperature of the connector. Swaping back the original one works without any issue.
I need to replace whole board because of faulty microphone, connector itself works just fine. That's how I figured out it is not the matter of faulty replacement part.
when it comes to buying replacement boards from Allibaba, Alliexpress, eBay or Amazon, beware of anything that's cheaper than the most expensive by a long way.
it seems to be a thing in Chinese factories that the bin full of Q.C. fails doesn't always get destroyed, sometimes it makes it's way onto market style websites at prices that'll get people clicking.
I've had this 3 times with completely different classes of products produced in China.
buy another board, check ifixit.com or find a reputable seller with strong reviews.