Hello all.
I'm having problems with Bluetooth on my One. The device that I'm trying to use with it is called a Siemens MiniTek. (It's actually a hearing-aid accessory. You clip to the front of your shirt - it looks a bit like an MP3 player - and it plus my hearing aids together then function like a Bluetooth headset. So, when making a call, the sound is sent wirelessly to the hearing aids, and the device itself has a microphone on it.)
Making a call with it works okay; but if I try to use it to get audio out of my One in other conditions (playing a game, say, or watching downloaded video) then the video and audio are always badly out of synch - the sound lags at least one second behind the picture.
I'm using the stock HTC ROM, the latest one available in the UK (2.24.401.8).
Anyone have any thoughts as to why this might be happening and what I can do about it?
Mby there is too much data to deliver via bluetooth (high quality audi/video sound) and the hearing aid device is not meant to recive such a load.
When calling to some1, the sound quality is only like 24kbps or something.
Just a thought
Rendoqoz said:
Mby there is too much data to deliver via bluetooth (high quality audi/video sound) and the hearing aid device is not meant to recive such a load.
When calling to some1, the sound quality is only like 24kbps or something.
Just a thought
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That might result in there either being no sound at all or in the sound quality being very poor, but I don't see that it would result in reasonable-quality sound running 1 second behind the picture...?
The device itself is designed to handle fairly high quality sound: as well as receiving Bluetooth signals it can take analogue audio input via a 2.5mm stereo jack socket, and it also has a separate "base station" transmitter which you can plug into (say) the headphone socket of your TV: the transmitter then sends a signal wirelessly to the MiniTek (using a proprietary version of Bluetooth) and the MiniTek relays it to the hearing aids. Using either the direct-line input or the wireless transmitter works quite nicely, and there's no perceptible lag problem there.
I should have said, I've been onto Siemens tech support about it, and they're adamant that it shouldn't be doing this, and they don't know why it is. So I'm looking for a problem at the phone end.
Shasarak said:
I should have said, I've been onto Siemens tech support about it, and they're adamant that it shouldn't be doing this, and they don't know why it is. So I'm looking for a problem at the phone end.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i've experienced the same issues on various BT-Receivers and Smartphones. Seems to be a general issue. So far, this 1 second lag was present on all combinations of:
Phones: Samsung Galaxy S2 / iPhone 4 / HTC One
Receivers: Creative D100 / Creative D200 / Belkin BT Adapter
As i found out so far, this problem occours when the receiver can't handle the apt-x codec and audio has to be resampled to the older SBC codec. Found one thread kinda dealing with this topic, but haven't tried it out for myself at the moment. I'll do some testing later when i'm at home.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1256407
So here's the thing...I've got an oldish HDTV and it does not support ARC audio.
So I can SEE the chromecast just fine, but no sound is going to be a problem.
I had the brilliant idea od getting a cheap 1x2 splitter, running one output to my TV and one to my sound system so that the two devices would be getting the same signal at the dame time and I just switch the input for my sound system to HDMI and it should broadcast sound just fine while the TV broadcasts the picture...right?
Wrong.
I don't know if it's the brand I used or the cheapness of it, but my chromecast would NOT work through that splitter. Even when the splitter had the input and output lights all lit up, supposedly sending signal, the video display was blank.
So, here's the thing: Is there anything available that can either split off just the audio to any other format (I have spare fiber optic port, I have spare RCA and component, I;ve got spare audio connectors aplenty), or failing that, a way to convert HDMI to Hd component or something that will work with the chromecast?
I know there's HDMI to component converters out there, but I'm guessing the chromecast needs some kind of return signal from the TV in order to operate, which is why it didn't work with my splitter maybe?
ANyway, if ayone has a good workaround i;d be much obliged. I want chromecast but I'm obviously not going to buy a new TV just to make a $35 device work
ARC is something else. Your HDMI TV will play audio from an HDMI device. Same with your receiver (unless its an HDMI pass through). You don't need any splitters or anything if your TV has HDMI.
Galahad_Knight said:
So here's the thing...I've got an oldish HDTV and it does not support ARC audio.
So I can SEE the chromecast just fine, but no sound is going to be a problem.
I had the brilliant idea od getting a cheap 1x2 splitter, running one output to my TV and one to my sound system so that the two devices would be getting the same signal at the dame time and I just switch the input for my sound system to HDMI and it should broadcast sound just fine while the TV broadcasts the picture...right?
Wrong.
I don't know if it's the brand I used or the cheapness of it, but my chromecast would NOT work through that splitter. Even when the splitter had the input and output lights all lit up, supposedly sending signal, the video display was blank.
So, here's the thing: Is there anything available that can either split off just the audio to any other format (I have spare fiber optic port, I have spare RCA and component, I;ve got spare audio connectors aplenty), or failing that, a way to convert HDMI to Hd component or something that will work with the chromecast?
I know there's HDMI to component converters out there, but I'm guessing the chromecast needs some kind of return signal from the TV in order to operate, which is why it didn't work with my splitter maybe?
ANyway, if ayone has a good workaround i;d be much obliged. I want chromecast but I'm obviously not going to buy a new TV just to make a $35 device work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure the TV sees it as being HDMI and not DVI. The TV should tell you what kind of video signal its receiving.
As the others have said, your TV should be getting the audio from the Chromecast HDMI. For testing, switch your TV speakers on - you should hear the audio.
My (older) Sony TV doesn't support ARC either, but it has optical audio out, so I run that to my sound bar and it works fine.
bhiga said:
As the others have said, your TV should be getting the audio from the Chromecast HDMI. For testing, switch your TV speakers on - you should hear the audio.
My (older) Sony TV doesn't support ARC either, but it has optical audio out, so I run that to my sound bar and it works fine.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whoops. Yeah, it looks like the reason I wasn't getting audio is my TV was set to external amp, I had to turn the built in speakers on in order to get sound.
Now, however, I can only get sound from the tinny onboard speakers and not the big thumping 5.1
Now to figure out how to fix that...
Your TV doesn't have an audio output? Either analog (sometimes labeled "variable out" if it's controlled by the TV volume control) or a digital out?
---------- Post added at 01:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:42 AM ----------
BTW many HDMI splitters aren't HDCP compliant, and those tend not to work for non-computer sources because the HDCP handshake doesn't happen.
---------- Post added at 01:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:44 AM ----------
And yes, something like a (genuine - beware of fakes) HDfury2 or newer will turn a spare VGA or component input into an HDMI input and split out the audio, but I'm pretty sure you can achieve what you want without adding extra conversion.
What make/ model are your TV and sound system?
Can't you plug the CC into an HDMI input on your receiver, as you would any other input device?
Agree, technically that's how mine is connected. My sound bar has 3 inputs and its HDMI output goes to my TV, then the optical output from the TV goes back to the sound bar input (since my TV doesn't support ARC).
bhiga said:
Your TV doesn't have an audio output? Either analog (sometimes labeled "variable out" if it's controlled by the TV volume control) or a digital out?
I have RGB cables that go from the TV to the cable box, and a fiber optic that goes from the cable box to the sound system/dvd player
The TV is connected to the sound system/dvd by an HDMI cable, and the sound system only has the one HDMI port and for some reason that HDMI connection doesn't seem to carry sound from the TV to the sound system
The TV has spare stereo outputs (Red/White), and a round yellow Digital Audio Coax port.
The sound system has a spare fiber optic port, and might have a spare red/white stereo port (but that of course would only give me stereo and not 5.1
What make/ model are your TV and sound system?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sylvania lc320slx TV connected to a Panasonic SC-BT230 5.1 surround sound/blue ray player
So at the moment, unless I can figure out why the HDMI cable isn't porting sound from the TV/CC, it looks like the only way to get sound out of the good speakers would be Stereo only.
Unless maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optic...8ZQY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1385195890&sr=8-3 convert that digital audio coax on the TV into a fiber optic to plug into the spare fiber optic jack on the sound system?
scoppola said:
Can't you plug the CC into an HDMI input on your receiver, as you would any other input device?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only one HDMI port on the sound system and that's what the TV's plugged into
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay... I looked at your TV's spec sheet and your sound system's manual.
Your TV has three HDMI inputs, two on the back, one on the side.
Your combo sound system/BD player has a single HDMI output, which is how your BD/DVD disc playback gets picture on the TV, and two TOSlink optical digital audio inputs.
Your cable box is connected to the TV via Component video (red/green/blue) connection to the TV, and TOSlink audio (optical) connection to one of your sound system's inputs.
Since your TV doesn't support ARC, it can't send decoded audio back "up" the HDMI connection to the sound system, so we need to use a another connection to get the decoded audio output from your TV back to the sound system.
Galahad_Knight said:
Unless maybe something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optic...8ZQY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1385195890&sr=8-3 convert that digital audio coax on the TV into a fiber optic to plug into the spare fiber optic jack on the sound system?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Close, but you want one that converts the other way, from SPDIF coax to TOSlink optical.
Your TV will "break out" the audio from the Chromecast connection and output it on the SPDIF coax connection, it'll go through the converter (don't worry about delay, it's just a signal medium conversion, not an re-encode) to your sound system's TOSlink optical input, and you should hear audio, assuming your sound system is set to the correct input.
bhiga said:
Okay... I looked at your TV's spec sheet and your sound system's manual.
Your TV has three HDMI inputs, two on the back, one on the side.
Your combo sound system/BD player has a single HDMI output, which is how your BD/DVD disc playback gets picture on the TV, and two TOSlink optical digital audio inputs.
Your cable box is connected to the TV via Component video (red/green/blue) connection to the TV, and TOSlink audio (optical) connection to one of your sound system's inputs.
Since your TV doesn't support ARC, it can't send decoded audio back "up" the HDMI connection to the sound system, so we need to use a another connection to get the decoded audio output from your TV back to the sound system.
Close, but you want one that converts the other way, from SPDIF coax to TOSlink optical.
Your TV will "break out" the audio from the Chromecast connection and output it on the SPDIF coax connection, it'll go through the converter (don't worry about delay, it's just a signal medium conversion, not an re-encode) to your sound system's TOSlink optical input, and you should hear audio, assuming your sound system is set to the correct input.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Woot! you're a lifesaver, man. Have all the +1s
I'm gonna snag that up now and report my results.
After my failed splitter experiment this should put me at about $50 worth of cables and doodads to support a $35 dongle
That'll teach me not to come here first.
Haha if it makes you feel any better, I have about $250 of gear to get Chromecast on a 20-inch SD tube TV. Half of it was already stuff I had though.
Still HBO Go and AllCast/AirCast make it quite useful.
Much easier than transcoding stuff and pushing it back to the TiVo hooked up to that TV.
bhiga said:
Haha if it makes you feel any better, I have about $250 of gear to get Chromecast on a 20-inch SD tube TV. Half of it was already stuff I had though.
Still HBO Go and AllCast/AirCast make it quite useful.
Much easier than transcoding stuff and pushing it back to the TiVo hooked up to that TV.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL, wow, after a certain point it'd almost be cheaper to grab a new TV, or at least a decent pawn shop model
But of course, it's the principle of the matter. A new TV would be admitting defeat
Very true (and what I advise others to do - unless you have a very special display or circumstances, much cheaper to upgrade to something better), in my case I have other uses for the new gear once this invincible tube finally retires, heh. Plus I'm a "learn by doing" kind of person...
Galahad_Knight said:
Woot! you're a lifesaver, man. Have all the +1s
I'm gonna snag that up now and report my results.
After my failed splitter experiment this should put me at about $50 worth of cables and doodads to support a $35 dongle
That'll teach me not to come here first.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just curious as to what you ended up doing.
bhiga said:
Just curious as to what you ended up doing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whoops! Sorry I forgot to get back about my results...I was too distracted watching chromecast in glorious 5.1
That converter worked exactly to spec. All I have to do is cast a video and my TV automatically switches video inputs, then I just tap the autio input button on my sound system remote ocne and it pops over to the second toslink port and it comes right out.
Only hitch is that it takes a second for the audio to switch over so I have to pause the video once I cast it.
And the second the video ends and there's no active output from the chromecast the audi immediately switches back to the cable box, but hey at least it works!
For the record, I solved the audio switching problem. It was super frustrating because every time I paused it would switch back to the cable box audio and it always took a second or two to come back.
Problem? Had my TV plugged into the wrong Toslink port. Port 1 is the default TV input. For the longest time all we had plugged into it was the cable box so it was in one.
Switched the TV to one and cable box to two and blammo!
I chromecast something and the TV automatically switches to the HDMI port for the dongle and the audio automatically switches over to the input from the TV! Perfection.
Then all I have to do is manually switch inputs back to component for video and digital 2 for audio and i'm back to watching cable
Galahad_Knight said:
I chromecast something and the TV automatically switches to the HDMI port for the dongle and the audio automatically switches over to the input from the TV! Perfection.
Then all I have to do is manually switch inputs back to component for video and digital 2 for audio and i'm back to watching cable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great! I love when a plan comes together!!
the chromecast is an amazing device so far. i can easily watch speed runs from it. picture quality is great. my phone feeds better than my lappy for sure.
sa1tine said:
the chromecast is an amazing device so far. i can easily watch speed runs from it. picture quality is great. my phone feeds better than my lappy for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I noticed that too, it;s weird! But if I'm casting something from a tab I pretty much have to use the laptop.
Protip: I found out that chrome will open mp4s in-browser so if you want to play a local video just C&P the file location into your chrome browser and cast away!
Hello to everybody, thanks for reading.
I will start with facts: on one hand, i have my desktop pc connected via hdmi to my tv, whose analog audio output is connected to my speakers. On the other hand, i also have a Chromecast 2 connected to the tv.
So in both cases, audio output is the same, BUT sounds different (and here's the issue).
For example, when i play anything (netflix, Spotify) through my computer, sound is fine, perfect. But when i do it via Chromecast through my android phone apps, sound is definitely worse: louder and a little bit distorted, like noisier.
I guess that the difference should be on Chromecast or phone audio driver (apparently working worse than pc drivers). But i don't even know if phone's audio is relevant here or not.
What do you think? What can i do? Thanks!
Do you have any other HDMI only devices to check the audio? Maybe there is something wrong in the TV with incoming audio on HDMI.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Acid0057 said:
Do you have any other HDMI only devices to check the audio? Maybe there is something wrong in the TV with incoming audio on HDMI.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, but i tried playing and sending Spotify to Chromecast through another phone, and i detected that sounded different than mine. So each phone's audio driver definitely made the difference by equalizing in different way. So I'm closer to conclude that problem may rely on my phones audio eq
smrdelj said:
No, but i tried playing and sending Spotify to Chromecast through another phone, and i detected that sounded different than mine. So each phone's audio driver definitely made the difference by equalizing in different way. So I'm closer to conclude that problem may rely on my phones audio eq
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's so weird because from what I understand the chromecast works by receiving a stream URL and fetching the content itself. Your phones audio eq shouldn't matter.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Check the Apps to make sure they don't have any Audio Boosting features enabled.
Also try lowering the volume on the Apps to see if you can match the sound from the computer.
The Loudness and Distortion sounds to me like you are overdriving the HDMI input past what it should be.
Setting the volume lower should solve that and get rid of the distortion.
I have no issues with the chrome cast. I would check the connection on the TV or it maybe the chrome cast
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Results will vary from device to device, TV to TV, App to App....Even from content to content.
Reasons why it can happen include:
Encoder/Transcoder used to create the content or stream boosted audio or failed to set levels to normalize it.
App (used to send the stream) has allowed volume control to boost low audio which would mean full volume on that App is much higher than +4 dBu expected by a digital device. This is done by App devs more for playback on speakers but that extra boost can distort the digital being sent to the CCast. Volume levels out of range will distort as the DSP doesn't know what to do with it. Remember the Device that launched the stream uses it's volume control to tell the CCast what level audio to send to the TV.
It can even be a simple matter of a dirty HDMI connection or bad handshake between the CCast and TV.
Both the CCast and the TV expect what we call a NOMINAL Level or (+4, -10 dBu depending on the TV model). This Level is supposed to allow enough headroom for louder sections to not distort while maintaining a decent range of quiet to loud.
If you go past this you are essentially cutting out whatever headroom exists and at some point everything gets distorted.
The solution is to lower the volume on the input (in this case the App sending the stream) and if needed raise it on the output (in this case the TV).
It may be counter to how Google expected and wanted the CCast system to work but it really is better (albeit less convenient) to control the volume on the TV as opposed to the App. Setting the App to full volume can easily lead to distortion.
Chromecast audio now has multiroom support. I would like to figure out a way to add chromecast (video) to my audio group. Currently google says it's unsupported, but hoping for a work around. Like maybe have my chromecast "look" like its a chromecast audio to the app?
Any help is appreciated.
What would also be cool is if I could cast video to chromecast and audio from that video to chromecast audio. But this is a lot more difficult.
kwstudz said:
Chromecast audio now has multiroom support. I would like to figure out a way to add chromecast (video) to my audio group. Currently google says it's unsupported, but hoping for a work around. Like maybe have my chromecast "look" like its a chromecast audio to the app?
Any help is appreciated.
What would also be cool is if I could cast video to chromecast and audio from that video to chromecast audio. But this is a lot more difficult.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is a workaround for simulating 5.1 sound with Chromecast audio. Say, for example, you want an approximation of 5.1 sound for your home theater but you don't want to have wires connecting your 2 surround speakers to your receiver. For example, you don't want the speaker wires cluttering up your living room and you don't want to run them through the attic. Here is what you can do: buy 3 Chromecast audios for about $35 each. Buy two small amps for your surround speakers. For example, the Pyle 200 amps cost around $26 each. These small amplifiers will change your surround speakers from passive to active. One Chromecast audio device should be connected to your main receiver . Attach the 2 remaining chromecast audios to your Pyle amplifiers connected to the surround speakers. Each Pyle amplifier can actually run 2 speakers, but for this example we are using one amplifier for each of the surround speakers to minimize wire clutter. Short speaker wires will need to run between each of the Pyle amplifiers and and its surround speaker These speaker wires should be attached to the appropriate terminals (left or right) of the 2 amplifiers. In the Google Home app, first add all 3 devices. Then create a speaker group that includes all 3 devices. For example, we will call the new group MySimulated5.1. Attach your laptop, tablet, or phone to your TV HDMI-in by cable. Cast the audio to the MySimulated5.1. Be sure built-in TV speakers are off so that all sound comes from your external speakers.
This system will work because you are not casting to both Chromecast and Chromecast Audio. Your video will have HDMI quality. to the extent it is supported by the source device. You can use Microsoft Dolby 5.1 test on YouTube to verify that all your speakers are working. If everything is set up correctly, your left front speaker will play audio intended for left front and left surround. Center speaker will function as usual. Right front speaker will play audio intended for right front and right surround. Everything played on right front and left front will also play on right surround and left surround speakers, respectively. The system will not be true 5.1. However, the surround speakers will reinforce lateralization of audio and improve immersion.