Database Develop

BA as car(pocket)pc

I've bought a used xv6600 off ebay which I'm going to convert to a carpc.
As a first time BA user, i have a few questions.
I have read the wiki/searched the forum, but I'm a bit mixed up and hence posting this thread.
installed versions on the phone:
model: PH20A2
ROM version: 1.36.00 WWE
ROM date 01/13/05
radio HA01_151
protocol AA.3.3.3.01
PRL 50619
extrom 1.36.116 WWE
hardware version 0041
a few notes:
- Its not going to be used as a phone as I can't register it with my local cellular provider (although they do support CMDA EVDO) - so I couldnt care less about if its radio works..
- Its going to be paired to a BT GPS from socket.
- the BA/xv6600 is going to be permanently mounted into the car (I'm still designing how, it would be in horizontal mode though).
- since It'll be permanently mounted, I won't (and couldnt) use the keyboard..
- audio out is going to be used to connect to an external speaker
- the BA will be charged from the car's 12v (always connected).
my questions are:
1) where could I find schematics for getting audio output (if exists), as well as where to connect the charge directly to the BA's connector.
I have only a cradle, no sync cable, which means I'd probably have to open up the BA and soldier directly, or get a connector...
2) should I connect audio out to the connector (if possible?) or the 2.5mm output on top of the device.. ?
3) I'd be interested in upgrading to WM5, I've read on the forums that it isn't possible on the CDMA versions because the radio doesnt work (or does it?). Since I don't care about the radio, could I install WM5 ? which ROM would be suitable for my BA model ?
awaiting your answers,
thanks!

Sounds like a neat project
ido said:
- the BA will be charged from the car's 12v (always connected).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Might be a bad idea...car batteries are designed to give out high power for short periods, not low constant drains. Personally I'd connect it to the ignition circuit so it's only powered when the ACC line is live. This will also turn it off for you after X minutes if you use the "auto-power off on batteries" function. It may even turn it on for you!
1) where could I find schematics for getting audio output (if exists), as well as where to connect the charge directly to the BA's connector.
I have only a cradle, no sync cable, which means I'd probably have to open up the BA and soldier directly, or get a connector...
2) should I connect audio out to the connector (if possible?) or the 2.5mm output on top of the device.. ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The connector does have audio available. Buy a cable and hack it because if you mess it up you just buy another. Messing up the connector itself on the phone is more fatal. I think the schematic is on the wiki for the actual pin outs.
You might also find these useful:
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Connectors
http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-235616.html

yes after constant searching , i also found those threads.
Yet I'm wondering, some connectors don't include all 22 pins, but only the ones actually used for charging (for example) - and then it'll be really hard to hack them.
I guess i'll just have to hope I buy one that does have all 22 pins installed... unless you have other idea's for me.
Also, for the charger, you're right, I didn't mention that, but thats somewhat my intention.
Since the unit will be permanently mounted, I won't be able to sync it (unless I bring a laptop to my car) - could I somehow get a two SD cards installed at once to the unit ?

ido said:
yes after constant searching , i also found those threads.
Yet I'm wondering, some connectors don't include all 22 pins, but only the ones actually used for charging (for example) - and then it'll be really hard to hack them.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that's correct. If you get a charge & sync cable you'll have most. Might need to take audio from the 2.5mm jack in that case. That's probably the simplest solution if you cannot get a fully wired one. I'm interested in this sort of thing, so if you could post an update on what you go with I'd be grateful.
Since the unit will be permanently mounted, I won't be able to sync it (unless I bring a laptop to my car) - could I somehow get a two SD cards installed at once to the unit ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt you could get two SD cards. What may be possible is some sort of SD card extension device. Never seen one (never looked), but if it existed you could have a dash-mounted SD card.
Bluetooth or WiFi might help you e.g. with WiFi you could browse a network share to copy music over from your house. Also, there is a tool for WM5 that turns the phone into a keydrive, i.e. a USB mass storage device. Unless you need contacts etc sync'ed, that might be a bit simpler & give you more options to what you can hook up for.
PS bluetooth on WM5 isn't all that great. There is a "fix" that wakes the device now and then. This would light up your car overnight and might possibly be a thief magnet. On the other hand, if the battery dies on WM2003, you lose the data on it.

- At first I thought of making the device extractable, so I thought it'll be better to use the connector on the bottom for audio, but I've decided not to go this route (more complications and harder to make - also makes it easier for thieves.
So I'm probably going to go for the 2.5mm jack for audio.
- as for SD, since the SD slot won't be accessible, I thought of making an SD slot on the dashboard - and I'd like to switch between both.
an SD is connected via 9 pins, meaning making an SD switch is possible, but you wouldn't be able to use both.. thus I was wondering if software/hardware wise there is a builtin capabilty of such a thing as using two SD's at once. that'll be really cool.
- unfortunatly my XV6600 does not have WIFI, and BT is NOT an option for syncing (too slow !! - just imagine syncing 2gb of audio/vid via bluetooth..)
the two idea's I've had is making a USB connector on the dash (just incase I can get a laptop in the car..)
and the other, was the dash SD slot..
- for bluetooth, can't I just disable auto wakeup ?
- how will upgrading to WM5 save my data even if the battery drains ? its the same RAM chip's, not flash ROM, isn't that right ?
- as for HR's, the question is if I can somehow get the unit to 'working order' by installing software from the SD card, without actually syncing it to a computer..

fraser: Since I'm going to be connecting the ppc to the ignition circuit, and I'd also like to have a USB connector on the dashboard, I'd need to switch between the two.
i already have a car 12v connector -> usb charger device.
Should I buy a SYNC cable and convert it to charger, or car charger and convert it to USB cable ?
(although car charger might not have all the right pins..)

ido said:
thus I was wondering if software/hardware wise there is a builtin capabilty of such a thing as using two SD's at once. that'll be really cool.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never heard of that I'm afraid. A switcher may work, but make sure there aren't any other physical switches that get tripped when you put a card in.
- for bluetooth, can't I just disable auto wakeup ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, this BT issue is the biggest one on WM5
- how will upgrading to WM5 save my data even if the battery drains ? its the same RAM chip's, not flash ROM, isn't that right ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, it's different ones. WM5 uses the "storage" area for your personal data; you now no longer have /storage as it's all in there. The RAM becomes proper RAM, although you can use some of it as a ramdisk with the same loss-of-power issues as WM2003.
- as for HR's, the question is if I can somehow get the unit to 'working order' by installing software from the SD card, without actually syncing it to a computer..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's exactly what I do. I've stopped using the PC installers, there is enough junk on my PC. Just find the cabs for the apps and keep a copy on the SD card.

Not all apps have cabs.. so that might be a problem.
as well as I'll have to make pre-made .reg fixes just incase I'll have to HR.
as for WM5, if I install it, won't I have less free space then ?

ido said:
Not all apps have cabs.. so that might be a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can extract the cabs in various ways. Some exe's can even be opened in winrar.
as for WM5, if I install it, won't I have less free space then ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can reformat the storage area to 60 meg before the upgrade. Only before though. You don't get a memory slider like in WM2003.
Still, I'm not so sure on WM5 being the best for you. You'd want to have reliable BT and I'm not sure it is on WM5.

So I guess I'll stick with WM2003 for the time being.
I'm ordering an SD slot for the dashboard, as well as a USB connector.
Another Idea I've had is the need for the hardreset as well as reset button.
to which version should I upgrade my rom then ?

ido said:
- an SD is connected via 9 pins, meaning making an SD switch is possible, but you wouldn't be able to use both.. thus I was wondering if software/hardware wise there is a builtin capabilty of such a thing as using two SD's at once. that'll be really cool. ..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sorry to butt-in but, someone had done that before: SD-WiFi & SD Mem Card in parallel on the same 9 pin source: pda sd expansion.
a switch might be of help if you don't want to use the two slots simultaneously.

Yes I've seen that. Its a pretty lame hack if you read it to the end.
there's a better link with larger photo's for anyone interested:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/david.hutchinson27/pockpc/
also, his project doesnt seem to work at the same time, and I've decided not to go with the switch route.
I'm reading a lot of the SD specs, So there is a very slim possibility I'll be able to get two cards to co-exist (and I would love some proffesional help if any of you guys know more about SD's then I do).
if not, then I'll just make an SD slot on the dashboard..

How to Upgrade the Shift to 100GB

This guide adds to the disassemble guide found in the Shift section. I will show you how to successfully install a 100GB Toshiba hard drive.
1) Follow the disassemble guide until the back cover on the Shift is removed.
2) Carefully pull back the tape found on the ribbon cable connecting to the hard drive.
3) Pull gently the ribbon cable that connects to the hard drive interface. I used pliers with electrical tape around the pinchers to not scuff/scratch the ribbon cable. The hard drive connector is of LIF type (Low Insertion Force) meaning it's on there simply by pressure and not secured by any clips. It should slide out easily.
4) Remove the rubber casing around the hard drive and store somewhere. It can't be used with the 8mm 100GB hard drive due to the depth difference between the two. (trust me... i tried).
5) Using a thin rubber patch (like those for bike tires/air mattresses), place it in the area where the 100GB hard drive will sit, in this way the drive sits on top of the rubber patch.
6) Push the ribbon cable into the LIF connector on the Toshiba 100GB Hard Drive. It should slide in fairly easily. Note: there are no audible clicks, just push it in as far as you can and secure it with the tape the same way the 40GB was.
7) Close the back cover and secure it with the screws. It should close fairly snug in the area where the 100GB is; nonetheless, it should close. If it doesn't, check your drive positioning.
8) Follow the disassemble guide to replace the keyboard (do the reverse).
9) Boot the system and the BIOS will automatically detect the new 100GB drive!
10) Enjoy! (remember, this is just a guide... i am not responsible for damages or warranty void)

Hello,
Thanks for this guide...
This is the very same HDD I installed into my Shift. You wrote :
Remove the rubber casing around the hard drive and store somewhere. It can't be used with the 8mm 100GB hard drive due to the depth difference between the two. (trust me... i tried).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had to sort out the Rubber thing too.
But on you picture, the rubber is still in place... So, just to make it crystal-clear to readers: confirming this is the rubber that should be removed (following maestro2mil's advice) or modified...
[adding] Btw, a thread is already live on this topic :
HERE

do you need to have copied accross the recovery image onto the 100gb drive (from the existing 40gb one) before you can do this?

salmon said:
do you need to have copied accross the recovery image onto the 100gb drive (from the existing 40gb one) before you can do this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, you can avoid that (as you will need a specific adapter in order to have the 100GB plugged via USB. One time adapter in this case). You should make a HDD image of your 40GB before taking it out the Shift, put it onto a external HDD or a USB dongle, then back to the 100GB once it is installed. Using Acronis or equivalent tool.
If you want to start from scratch, with the recovery partition, then go for search in the forum, there is several ways to do it : copying it while hidden, via Linux tools or have it visible, before using Acronis tool.
[editing] Of course, you may want to have the recovery partition copied to keep the recovery capability on-board. Not really necessary if you keep safe aside a clean image of the former 40GB HDD partition.

Hi Folks
Thanks alot for all this information! I am absolutely keen to do that to, so would you please specify wht drive exactly you've bougth and used and what I may additionally need for the upgrade? I already have an image of the Shift for install via USB ready and waiting ...
Thanks alot!
Lutz

Hello Lutzh,
Please, have a careful reading to this thread :
Upgrading the HDD
Regarding the Hard Drive model used here: just look at the pictures!

Hi Yann
Thanks for the feedback - I did what you've said and I got one on eBay for 90 €, so now I am waiting for delivery...
Cheers, Lutz

LIF or ZIF or... ?
Hi ,I am new to this forum , live in germany and sorry for my poor english ( only with dictionary )
Can anyone help, because of my bad english it is hard, to translate all threads and postst.
Here is my question:
I am a bit confused about new HDD for shift.
I read, we need LIF-connector
In an other thread ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=385578 ) they write , we need ZIF-connector.
What is the difference and what is correct?
I am thinking about buying a shift and about a new HDD.
Do I need a " GAH " or a " GAL " ? Or what should I order?
http://www.sdd.toshiba.com/main.aspx...ives/MK8025GAL
Thank You for Your help and sorry for my poor english.
Best regards!
T. Brumm

Hi T
I am expecting delivery this days - since I am German too, I'll report my experiences then, ok?
Lutz

Hello t.brumm,
I'm the one mentionning ZIF... I wonder why!
I added a post in the thread you're mentionning to correct my mistake...
HTC Shift is using a 40GB HDD with LIF connector so the model you plan to buy is quite ok.
"GAH" or "GAL" are not related to connector : HTC Shift is shipping with a MK400GAL and I changed it for a MK1011GAH, osome others for a MK1214GAH, etc...
Definitely, go for the MK8025GAL is it has the suitable heigh (5mm). Much more easy to make it fit into the case than those 8mm models.

Hello Yann,
thank You so much for Your help.
It is really not easy, to read all posts with dictionary. So Your answer becomes special importance for me.
But, The MK8025GAL has here 8mm, not 5mm!? What is correct?
http://www.storage.toshiba.eu/index.php?id=3&pid=229&sid=3
May I ask still an other question?
I have a desktop pc , which has a hidden recovery-partition too.
I did try to visible this partition (like it is written here ) but this does not work. ( maybe, because I have Windows XP and not Vista ? )
Then I used " Powerquest Drive Image 7 ".
This program sees the hidden partition and I can backup this hidden partition to another HDD too!
If I restore it somewhere on my HDD, this partition is not hidden anymore, it is visible and with " Partition Magic 7 " I can not hide this partition.
If I would do this on the shift ( I would like to change the HDD at first step and this procedure would be very easy)
could I than recover the system from the visible partition or should this partition generally invisible?
Thank You and best greetings!
T. Brumm
Thank

But, The MK8025GAL has here 8mm, not 5mm!? What is correct?
http://www.storage.toshiba.eu/index....&pid=229&sid=3
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Strange... I've to admit you pinpointed something: Toshiba is inconsistent here... To be safe, I would bet it's a 8mm. Still feasible, but more tricky.
Don't get me wrong: a 8mm heigh HDD fits but... and I guess you already read my comments on the other threads... the result is not really safe on the mechanical side. Still, with a little extra caution when moving around your Shift, everything is fine.
About Recovery partition, see this thread : Recovery from USB drive
Riki0081 is not hiding the Recovery Partition in order to boot on it from an USB dongle. Using a 4GB USB dongle is a very good solution...
Because as Riki0081 wrote HERE, Recovery boot (Fn+F3) won't work anymore if Recovery partition remains visible on the internal HDD.
By the way, I did it the lazy way: avoiding to deal with the Hidden Partition when possible.
Few weeks before getting the my 100GB HDD on-board, I let the Shift doing a Fresh install of Vista from the Recovery Partition. I rebooted on a CD with the Partition tool (Acronis), to copy the installed Vista onto an USB External HDD. At that time, I killed the Recovery Partition in order to save some space on the 40GB...
When my 100GB HDD arrived, I replaced the 40GB HDD with it, copying the initial Partition image (the "Fresh Vista installation") from the external storage back to the new 100GB HDD. Re-installing/organizing Applications and Data onto 2 "large" Logical partitions...
Hope my bad English is readable enough!

Hello Yann and thank You!
I think, I did understand Your post and I know, what to do!
And Your english is better than mine
Best regards!
T.Brumm

SDD or HD
Somebody who did the step to SDD drive already?
Is it wise while the shift bis open to build in a SDD?
If so please share model and connections
Thanks and regards

sorry kinda random information
but having an acer aspire one means i have had to upgrade my **** 8gb ssd to a hdd
and we have a zif connecting ssd
and this question came up many times in the forum
what is the difference between zif and lf
well z is for zero and l is for low
oif is for insertion force
basically toshiba realised it wasnt zero inserton force at all, and their drives are LIF.
hitachi drives are ZIF (as far as I know) yet both require the same amount of force o push the cable in (basically none)
but hitachi drives require a flip cable as their pinouts are reversed or something like that, so for the shift i would guess you can only have toshiba
plus if anyone doesnt want their ld drives, im sure people at www.aspireoneuser.com/forum/index.php would love them for a price, to save getting them of ebay
email me at [email protected] if youre interested
Rory

tools needed to unbrick G1

Hey guys,
Im looking to unbrick my G1 (no bootloader). I have asked some questions previously but haven't had the time to do anything besides that up to now.
I haven't had any luck here in India locating what I need with confidence, but today I happened across a helpful website.
Could anyone tell me if this is what Im looking for?
wiggler-clone
robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=240
pc-serial
robokits.co.in/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_64&products_id=64
The wiggler look-a-like says its compatible with GCC OCD.
The pc-serial page offers a driver under the name of pl230.
I am hoping to be able to follow the unbrick page here: wiki.cyanogenmod.com/index.php?title=JTAG_for_Dream/Magic
Thanks

The unbrick process originated on this forum and was really moved along by member ezterry. You really ought to read the threads here in the dev section about this. They do tend to be long, but there is every bit of information you could possibly want to know about unbricking a dream.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5911627&postcount=302
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=5934885&postcount=6

thanks for the links. i am currently working through the multitude of posts.

Hey,
I am learning a lot and have what i think is my last issue before i order some parts. The pc-serial cable should be at 2.8 v but i only have access to converters that give 5 v output.
I first consulted the datasheet for the pl2303hx (link provided above) which states:
"RS-232 VDD. The RS-232 output signals (Pin 1 ~ Pin 3) are
designed for 5V, 3.3V or 3V operation. VDD_232 should be
connected to the same power level of the RS-232 interface.
(The RS-232 input signals are always 5V~3V tolerant.)"
which was a little confusing, so i consulted the vendor:
"It will output 5V if the jumper is shorted or else it will be 0V. But the unit is self powered and can accept 3.3V input and output levels.
which is self contradictory. but, from what i gather, the serial output will be the same as the usb input.
Lastly, from this google group discussion:
groups.google.com/group/android-platform/msg/bf66abf4515132fb
Someone states that they used an lm317 circuit to drop voltage to 2.8, and it seems like this is the route ill take.
Question is, which voltage do i control? I think if i drop usb vcc voltage i should be good?
I think i just going to buy it and see, whats 400 INR anyways (its like 8 bucks)

salsavirdi said:
"RS-232 VDD. The RS-232 output signals (Pin 1 ~ Pin 3) are
designed for 5V, 3.3V or 3V operation. VDD_232 should be
connected to the same power level of the RS-232 interface.
(The RS-232 input signals are always 5V~3V tolerant.)"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can't understand that, then you should find someone to assist you who does.

I suppose im being a overly paranoid, and would like some corroboration. Id really hate to fry my phone, im rather attached to it.

[Q] Nook Color ULPI transceiver/internal modem

Hi!
As a new member, I cannot post to developer section, so I try to ask this question here. Nook Color PCB contains solder pads for Sierra SL808x AirPrime 3G module (probably non-GPS versions - GPS antenna pin is not used), connected to OMAP ULPI port probably via TUSB1211 ULPI transceiver (absent 36 pin TFBGA chip near flash disk chip - PCB pinout seems to be identical to TUSB1211 pinout). I will try to order several transceivers, solder one and several required SMD decoupling caps (I have experience in BGA rework and soldering, so I hope this task will be not so tricky) and try to get this internal USB working. The question is simple - have someone trying this hardware hack already? Is the last CM7 kernel able to support additional integrated OMAP 3621 ULPI port or such hack needs research and kernel/ULPI module patching?
Thank you in advance, Gleb.
P.S.: sorry for my bad english - I'm more a reader, than a writer.

P9 eMMC data recovery?

I am trying to recover files from the built-in (32GB) eMMC of a water damaged Huawai P9 (motherboard is corroded and no longer boots..). I'd like to somehow create a logical dump of the contained file system preferably using the least intusive method suitable for the task.
(unfortunately I am not allowed to link to the photo here.. so you'll have to manually patch the respective URL: www-wothke-ch*p9*motherboard.jpg )
Looking at the schematics ("14. eMMc AND LpDDR3") I see that various eMMC related test points are exposed on the PCB (i.e. DAT0, CLK, VSP1, VSP2, VSP3, VSP4) and I might be able to directly patch into those, to directly connect to some SD adapter (like this one: %&&ç - unfortunately I am not allowed to post the link - but you can google for "dumping-the-emmc-nand-on-the-nintendo-switch").. eventhough those pads are terribly small and I guess I'd still have to find CMD, 1v8 & 3v0 somewhere else on the PCB. however I have no experience if the remaining stuff on the PCB might just interfere too much for a respective patch to actually work.. any thoughts? Would I rather need to desolder the eMMC chip and to directly connect to the SD adapter?
Is Huawai actually using the on-chip (eMMC) controller or are they using some separate controller, so that using the on-chip one would not actually recover the logical image (if the on-chip controller was even functional and not some cheaper defective version that Huawai might be sourcing to save money - like those 1$ eMMC/SD adapters that can be found on aliexpress)?
The phone supposedly was *not* password protected. Does this automatically mean that the data on the eMMC is not encrypted or does Huawai use some kind of additional built-in/proprietary encryption scheme?
I found the JTAG pads on the PCB but if I understand it correctly those would at best allow me to recover a physical dump. So I'd need addtional hardware to even connect to those and then some expensive analyzer software to transfrom the physical dump to the logical image that I actually need... right?
There are also some ISP related test points exposed on the PCB.. but I guess using those (if they even still work on the damaged board )would lead to situation similar to the JTAG one, right?
Anything I have missed? Any recommendations?