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I just got my self an Asus N12 router/repeater and already set it up for repeater mode, verified with a laptop places on the house that formerly had very low signal now shows almost a full bar now the problem I have is that the Galaxy Note seems to only want to connect to the main router which gives it like a very low or even dropped signal, using an app called wifi analizer it can show both my main router and the repeater ( both have the same SSID and only shows a different mac address of some sort, the repeater is actually detected giving off good signal but then again it always connects to the main router.. I never had to setup anything on the laptop it just gets better over all signal.
EDIT:
This is what Wifi Analizer sees
Home (00:23:59:11:11:71)
Home (bc:ae:c5:b0:3a:78)
first one is my primary router and the 2nd one is my asus, the note always prefers to connect to the primary router and ignores the signal from the repeater.. the laptops on the other hand get the signal boost!
Good thread to second the question.
Is it possible to set the Roaming Aggressiveness for the Note?
In simpler words - if i have two signals (say, identical as the OPs config) i want to switch between them before the connections to the connected one has been dropped. In other words - is there a way to switch WiFi networks beneath signal strength value or on better signal from known network?
Spo0f said:
Good thread to second the question.
Is it possible to set the Roaming Aggressiveness for the Note?
In simpler words - if i have two signals (say, identical as the OPs config) i want to switch between them before the connections to the connected one has been dropped. In other words - is there a way to switch WiFi networks beneath signal strength value or on better signal from known network?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im also looking for something like that, I've read before that tasker can do that kind of switching.
Google might be your friend
I found this on another forum :
Originally Posted by wilmer000 View Post
Cracked it. WrecX free in market allows you to set a preferred AP, and either allow or exclude OPEN AP should you lose signal.
Re:tasker, basically a full phone API with undocumented GUI. Complex, requires *full* permissions (not my bag!), costs 4GB£
I had the exact same problem and this fixed it. It uses just 472Kb and it works. Thanks!
To use it, open it, Menu, Preference, Access Point(AP) and choose your preferred network.
It would be nice if I could set up multiple preferred access points, but I can live with the inconvenience of choosing a network while I'm travelling. I was getting annoyed with having to keep doing it at home though.
Hope it will resolve your problem.
You could try this with the free Wi-Fi Rules (a WIFI Manager) app in the market.
It allows you to set connect priorities...
Or even Wif-Fi scanner wRecX(Free) where your device can connect with the retrieved access points specified in the list...
That is annoying! I just bought a repeater. I guess I'll be having the same problems ...
friedje said:
Google might be your friend
I found this on another forum :
Originally Posted by wilmer000 View Post
Cracked it. WrecX free in market allows you to set a preferred AP, and either allow or exclude OPEN AP should you lose signal.
Re:tasker, basically a full phone API with undocumented GUI. Complex, requires *full* permissions (not my bag!), costs 4GB£
I had the exact same problem and this fixed it. It uses just 472Kb and it works. Thanks!
To use it, open it, Menu, Preference, Access Point(AP) and choose your preferred network.
It would be nice if I could set up multiple preferred access points, but I can live with the inconvenience of choosing a network while I'm travelling. I was getting annoyed with having to keep doing it at home though.
Hope it will resolve your problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
smaragdhk said:
You could try this with the free Wi-Fi Rules (a WIFI Manager) app in the market.
It allows you to set connect priorities...
Or even Wif-Fi scanner wRecX(Free) where your device can connect with the retrieved access points specified in the list...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try both solutions once I have my repeater up and running again, It is currently used as my primary router as it gives a better over all coverage compared to my old router but I will go back to using the repeater when I have the time to do so.
tried a different ssid on the repeater?
Richy99 said:
tried a different ssid on the repeater?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
A repeater automatically configured to have the same SSID at least on the Asus repeater mode, Access Point mode on the other hand allows you to use a different SSID but you need a LAN cable to connect to it.
After setting it back up, I've already figured it out that if I needed to connect to my repeater I must have a static IP settings on my phone.. for some odd reason it does not provide any IP from the DHCP of the primary router, so when I go up a floor I just need to reconnect manually to the primary router by turning the wifi toggle off then on again.
I have exactly the same issue, Static IP works but Notes can't pick an IP while connected to the repeater only work workarounds I found 1. static ip, 2. setup DHCP on the repeater too.
and I hate both
did you made any progress on this ?
ArcticCat said:
I have exactly the same issue, Static IP works but Notes can't pick an IP while connected to the repeater only work workarounds I found 1. static ip, 2. setup DHCP on the repeater too.
and I hate both
did you made any progress on this ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Static IP is the only work around I found for this to work, my laptop though connects to the repeater with out issues and the need for static IP. Same issue with the Galaxy tab7.7 Im guessing this could be an andriod/samsung issue.
There is a known issue with some Samsung Android phones, including Note, failing to support BSSID roaming. That is were the wifi device hands over between separate APs with the same SSID.
More info here: http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=12649
You could set your repeater to use a different SSID, if supported. I have had success with BSSID roaming when using Imilka's CM9 build for the Note.
Hope that helps.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda premium
Thanks to both, yes all other devices works just fine here too. Just my note and wife's S2 having problems
Good to know it is a bug and sad to notice still the same in ICS
Loftus said:
There is a known issue with some Samsung Android phones, including Note, failing to support BSSID roaming. That is were the wifi device hands over between separate APs with the same SSID.
More info here: http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=12649
You could set your repeater to use a different SSID, if supported. I have had success with BSSID roaming when using Imilka's CM9 build for the Note.
Hope that helps.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I cant see the option for my Repeater to be labelled differently
by definition a repeater will have the ssid that the main one
ArcticCat said:
by definition a repeater will have the ssid that the main one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, but some Asus models do have the ability to have it renamed.
I need to find an app that will log when my phone is connected to a wifi and when it is connected to at&t.
My Exede internet provider claims that I have a solid connection, yet, my phone spends a lot of time on AT&T connection while I am within range of my home router. I will also find a program that will work on windows and plug a laptop directly into the modem so I can eliminate router problems.
Thanks
akdale said:
I need to find an app that will log when my phone is connected to a wifi and when it is connected to at&t.
My Exede internet provider claims that I have a solid connection, yet, my phone spends a lot of time on AT&T connection while I am within range of my home router. I will also find a program that will work on windows and plug a laptop directly into the modem so I can eliminate router problems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You don't need a program to do that, you need a length of Ethernet cable with connectors on the ends. Unless your laptop is really old it has an Ethernet jack. Just plug the cable into that, and plug the other end of the cable into the modem. Or plug it into one of the connectors on the router if it's just a wifi issue. You have 3 options - wifi, Ethernet connection to the router or Ethernet connection to the modem. Windows will grab an IP address from the router if you're doing it that way (wired or wifi) or from your provider (if you connect to the modem). How connecting the laptop to the modem will eliminate problems with the phone is something I'm confused about, unless you're going to use the laptop as a wifi hotspot for the phone. That's a program I can't help you with. I did an exhaustive search for that kind of setup about 2 years ago, and there was no cheap way to do it. (There's a company that has a box and software, but if you think a Note 3 bought outright is more than pocket change ... $5,000? $6,000? Something in that neighborhood.)
As far as your other problem - the phone not getting wifi from your router? (Whether your internet connection to the router is solid or not has nothing to do with whether the phone is connecting to the router via wifi. I can connect to a wifi router that's not connected to the internet at all. It'll cause "unable to connect" type messages from every app that needs an internet connection, but it'll still be connected to the router.
So, there are a few things you need to figure out. Try Data ON-Off, a free app for the phone. That will allow you to turn your AT&T (3G/4G) data off so, good signal from wifi or not, your phone won't use AT&T.
Use Wifi Analytics (another free app) to ssee what's going on there. If there a few wifi signals on the same channel as yours, you may be getting so much interference that the phone can't see your router's signal and drops that connection. (Changing channels on the router depends on which router you have, but it's in the wifi section and it's simple - usually just a dropdown for channel number. Wifi Analytics lists the channels as poor, good and best based on what signals are on what channel. Use one of the ones marked best, or at least good.)
It also depends on what's between you and the router. In my last house, if I was on the deck and someone turned on the microwave, I lost the internet. The physical path from my seat on the deck to the router passed right through the microwave. Little metal box, not much signal loss. But when it was running it wasn't a little metal box, it was a huge 2.4GHz transmitter, transmitting (as far as wifi is concerned) garbage and noise. I didn't mind 30 or 60 seconds of loss of signal, I'd just refresh the page when the microwave was done. But my wife, who plays WoW, would want to get safe before I ran the microwave. 5 seconds of no signal and you can get killed there. (She may be the only player ever on WoW who died when she was dead. Something like she got killed PvP at the edge of a lake, fell in and drowned. Drowned while she was already dead.) If the path from your phone to your router is through a lot of walls, that's a problem too. Each piece of sheet rock only absorbs a little signal, but a few walls together can kill it. Same thing if the path is through a large piece of metal, like a refrigerator. Or if your router antenna is vertical and you're on the floor above it. (Antennas shoot at right angles to their axes.)
This is the kind of thing that drives microwave engineers mad. If you're going for minimum power needed for the path loss, and you didn't notice that tree in the path in December, come May when the tree has leaves you lose the signal, and thousands of customers scream. Oops. (It's also why some satellite TV systems don't work very well when it's pouring rain. They didn't calculate the additional path loss. "It never rains, does it?")
But understand, the strength of your internet signal (Exede to your modem) has nothing to do with the strength of the signal from your router to your phone over wifi. Think of a radio station. The announcer is so close to the mic that his lips are touching it, and he's shouting. But you're MANY miles away and can barely hear the station through the static. Or, the other way around, you live right near the transmitter, but the announcer is in the room next to the mic and he's mumbling. In each case one part of the "signal path" (which included announcer to mic and transmitter to receiver) is good but the other one isn't. Your Exede to modem path is good, but something between there and the phone is bad.
So if you still want to use wifi from your router, you may now have enough information to figure out why it's not solid connection, and maybe enough to change what needs to be changed to make it work. (Moving 2 feet left [or whatever] may be enough to increase the signal enough to give you a solid connection on wifi if, looking from where the phone isn't working well to the router [with X-Ray eyes], you see a refrigerator or something..)
Thanks very much for the in depth reply.
Unfortunately I was not very clear with my question.
I have not had any problem with my router talking to my cell phones or with my laptops through LAN.
I have an intermittent connection to the internet.
Originally, my router was hooked up to an ADSL modem. Everything worked great.
Had to change providers to Exede (Sat. dish Internet provider)
Started having intermittent connection to the internet. (Not weather related)
Exede tells me that they do not show any dropped connections to their modem.
When I disconnect from Exede, and hook back up to the ADSL, the intermittent connection problem to the WAN goes away and works as it should.
Looking for an app for my cellphone that will log when the phone changes from access to internet through my LAN, to access through AT&T.
Also, I am looking for a shareware/freeware program for my laptop that will log when its internet connection is dropped.
Thanks
Hi all, while thinking that faster internet would be a good thing, it seems that I have managed to break chromecast compatibility with my network. Previously I had a Netgear router that worked perfectly, but when we got an upgrade to TWC's new "Extreme Internet" they installed a new WiFi router/modem hybrid that I cannot seem to connect to. I get the message that it is connected to the network but not the internet. Ap isolation. Is disabled, but I cannot find the plug and play feature anywhere in the network settings. Has anyone found a work around?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
jmikeb92 said:
Hi all, while thinking that faster internet would be a good thing, it seems that I have managed to break chromecast compatibility with my network. Previously I had a Netgear router that worked perfectly, but when we got an upgrade to TWC's new "Extreme Internet" they installed a new WiFi router/modem hybrid that I cannot seem to connect to. I get the message that it is connected to the network but not the internet. Ap isolation. Is disabled, but I cannot find the plug and play feature anywhere in the network settings. Has anyone found a work around?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can give us the exact make and model we might be able to help more.
BTW, TWC changed their policy a few years back and now allow approved customer-owned modems which will save you the modem rental. They used to not charge for the modem rental but also not let you use your own. Installed a Motorola SB6141 for my relative and it's been working great with the Netgear WNDR3700 I put there.
No Chromecast yet because I haven't been by to visit...
You could always use your own modem with twc, just that most people did not know that. Like previously mentioned, more details are needed in order to further assist you. Make and model(tg862g, ddw3611, dvw32011b???). More than likely you just need to call and talk with level 3 tech support. I personally used my own router behind the modem because I do a bit more than normal with my router.
jmikeb92 said:
Hi all, while thinking that faster internet would be a good thing, it seems that I have managed to break chromecast compatibility with my network. Previously I had a Netgear router that worked perfectly, but when we got an upgrade to TWC's new "Extreme Internet" they installed a new WiFi router/modem hybrid that I cannot seem to connect to. I get the message that it is connected to the network but not the internet. Ap isolation. Is disabled, but I cannot find the plug and play feature anywhere in the network settings. Has anyone found a work around?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went through Hell on Christmas Eve with Time Warner....
They have a new Modem/Router they are using....When connected to a personal Router it does a double Nat translation which really doesn't work at all.
Your lucky if you even get Internet access on a Computer with it.
Check your router and see what IP address it has under internet connection. It should not be 192.168.0.x
If it is not an outside IP you need to call support and tell them you need your Router to breach the Modem and have them shut off all ROUTER capability on their Device so that all it does is pass a public IP to whatever is connected to it.
If you get your phone service from Time Warner as well better call on a Cell Phone because they will drop the phone call the second they mess with their Modem/Router and you will suffer through Groundhog day explaining it to the next guy from scratch!
Well guys I solved my own problem in a way. I disabled the wireless broadcast from the TWC Arris router and just connected my old NetGear ( old as in 2 months old) and it seems to work perfectly now. And the installer said, " You won't need to use your old one because this box is like commercial grade bro."
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
Glad to hear. The wireless modem you have is indeed a great modem and you could use that alone but it is easier to just use your own. The installer more than likely wasn't on the up and up about the more technical aspects of the modem. You can't knock him for that part as the techs are not trained on a lot of the extra features of the modem. I only know this because I may or may not work for the company(need to keep work out of forums).
shelby04861 said:
I only know this because I may or may not work for the company(need to keep work out of forums).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I usually go with "I have a lot of experience with these products"
So I'm in the army right now, which means there's a TV but no WiFi available.
I did think of just setting up a Hotspot with another phone but it gets pretty annoying having to have 2 people at all time.
So I went digging in the Internet and found someone at a random forum (can't find it now for credit..), that said that If you set up the Hotspot in your own phone and configure it with another one you don't need the other one around anymore - being the Hotspot works as being connected to it.
Now I'm pretty sure there shouldn't be any reason I couldn't set it up on my own phone (the hotspot), except the Google home app just demands I connect to the WiFi network, which I can't do because you can't connect to yourself sadly.
I think if someone made some changes to the Google home app, or made an alternative set up app it could work. I have no idea how to code an app, so I came here ?
tl:dr I Want an app that does the same as the home app for setting chromecast up, but without checking if I'm connected to a WiFi network. (I think)
I'm guessing that you have no WiFi but you do have a hard line internet connection?
The only issue with what I'm going to suggest is that base rules may prohibit creating a WiFi access point on any of their hardline connections.
But the best solution for you is to buy a Portable Router (see posts here about using CCast in a Hotel).
It's a small box about the size of a DC transformer that plugs into the outlet and also any Network to create a small footprint WiFi access point.
I suggest looking for a model that also has Repeater mode that allows it to connect to another WiFi access point to create your own private network as opposed to a hard line.
It is probably the best way to use a CCast in places where WiFi is not available without having to play with Phone Hotspot which doesn't always work due to the fact the hotspot can't control the CCast in that mode.
The other Option that is most likely to be allowed is to add a WiFi puck to your Mobile account. Then there would be no potential compromising of the Military network (which is why they might not allow the Portable Router to be used) and you would no longer need two phones to run the CCast.
CCast definitely needs Internet so that Puck might be the safest and best way forward for you.
As for what you read...The issue is that if the Phone goes out of range it stops working.
Asphyx said:
I'm guessing that you have no WiFi but you do have a hard line internet connection?
The only issue with what I'm going to suggest is that base rules may prohibit creating a WiFi access point on any of their hardline connections.
But the best solution for you is to buy a Portable Router (see posts here about using CCast in a Hotel).
It's a small box about the size of a DC transformer that plugs into the outlet and also any Network to create a small footprint WiFi access point.
I suggest looking for a model that also has Repeater mode that allows it to connect to another WiFi access point to create your own private network as opposed to a hard line.
It is probably the best way to use a CCast in places where WiFi is not available without having to play with Phone Hotspot which doesn't always work due to the fact the hotspot can't control the CCast in that mode.
The other Option that is most likely to be allowed is to add a WiFi puck to your Mobile account. Then there would be no potential compromising of the Military network (which is why they might not allow the Portable Router to be used) and you would no longer need two phones to run the CCast.
CCast definitely needs Internet so that Puck might be the safest and best way forward for you.
As for what you read...The issue is that if the Phone goes out of range it stops working.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually, no Internet at all, just mobile data, but since I got 15 gigs it's OK for me to use it.
exeLz said:
Actually, no Internet at all, just mobile data, but since I got 15 gigs it's OK for me to use it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Then I suggest getting the WiFi puck and adding it to your data account.
Asphyx said:
Then I suggest getting the WiFi puck and adding it to your data account.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To be honest, it is a good idea but my I was mainly wondering if I could solve it via software which is both easier obviously and also I just wanted to know if it's actually possible since I thought of it and I wanna know if I got it right
exeLz said:
To be honest, it is a good idea but my I was mainly wondering if I could solve it via software which is both easier obviously and also I just wanted to know if it's actually possible since I thought of it and I wanna know if I got it right
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not really...All the hacks and such that people try simply don't work well due to the fact that the Phone can't really connect to the same subnet as the Hotspot. When you go into Hotspot mode you can't also connect to that hotspot internally because WiFi is no longer available to the phone.
Asphyx said:
Not really...All the hacks and such that people try simply don't work well due to the fact that the Phone can't really connect to the same subnet as the Hotspot. When you go into Hotspot mode you can't also connect to that hotspot internally because WiFi is no longer available to the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's why i suggested tempering with the app so it treats being a Hotspot as if u were with WiFi on connected to one.
Basically take off the check for being connected to WiFi.
exeLz said:
That's why i suggested tempering with the app so it treats being a Hotspot as if u were with WiFi on connected to one.
Basically take off the check for being connected to WiFi.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The issue isn't the app...It's the fact that the WiFi in your phone can only do one thing at a time....BE an Access Point or CONNECT to an access point.
It can't connect to itself as the radio can't do both things at once.
So when you go into hotspot there is no way to get on the same subnet as the hotspot with the phone.
Because there is no network adapter available to connect to it. It is too busy being an access point.
Basically going into hotspot turns the Phone into a router. A router the phone has no way to connect to. So you either need another device to connect to that phone router or find some other router with internet.
Which is what the Cellular Puck will give you.
Asphyx said:
The issue isn't the app...It's the fact that the WiFi in your phone can only do one thing at a time....BE an Access Point or CONNECT to an access point.
It can't connect to itself as the radio can't do both things at once.
So when you go into hotspot there is no way to get on the same subnet as the hotspot with the phone.
Because there is no network adapter available to connect to it. It is too busy being an access point.
Basically going into hotspot turns the Phone into a router. A router the phone has no way to connect to. So you either need another device to connect to that phone router or find some other router with internet.
Which is what the Cellular Puck will give you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Like I said, once the setup is done, being the Hotspot is just like being connected to is. The app still doesn't recognize you're connected but if you're on the web the chromecast icon does pop up when needed, all the third party apps do recognize you as being connected.
All you managed to do with Google Home (which can't be edited by anyone but Google)on the second phone is connect your CCast to the Phone Hotspot for it's Internet. There is no way to avoid that setup....HOWEVER...
As long as you don't set it up to connect to some other Hotspot there is no need to run Home again, Just turn on Hotspot and it should reconnect.
It will even remember the password,
Accidental post
Asphyx said:
All you managed to do with Google Home (which can't be edited by anyone but Google)on the second phone is connect your CCast to the Phone Hotspot for it's Internet. There is no way to avoid that setup....HOWEVER...
As long as you don't set it up to connect to some other Hotspot there is no need to run Home again, Just turn on Hotspot and it should reconnect.
It will even remember the password,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I know, but sometimes friends take it or something and it's a pain in the ass to explain everything, and even when I do it means I gotta reconnect at my end again which is annoying just thought someone could maybe find a solution that sounded really simple for me, guess not, too bad..
Thanks anyway!
Well trying to recode Home is a dead end....Android wouldn't even let you install it!
You guys should just chip in and buy the puck.
It will even let you use Tablets and Laptops as well as simplify the CCast use.
I know this is an older post; not sure if you are still interested. I read all the replies and not sure what to make of it as far as if anyone had a working solution or not. No disrespect to anyone, but I couldn't tell for sure so I'm posting a link to my solution which does work. The two important steps are included. One is using " other wifi" in the drop down list when searching for your hotspot. The second is enabling GUEST MODE.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/how-to-cast-screen-android-phone-to-t4032653
I’m trying something similar with a Chromecast 3rd gen and iPhone 5S (iOS 12). Main issue seems to be guest mode doesn’t work at all on any apps, and pretty much every solution i’ve seen to this results in guest mode being used for the eventual casting. If you have android or iOS 13 then ymmv.
The only solution i’ve found are workarounds, the obvious being
1) don’t buy a chromecast (it’s not much of a solution but hey it’s $30).
2) use a secondary device to cast.
3) use a tethered travel router, and this can be done with only a phone and mobile data for internet, but there’s a catch:
First i’d Recommend any router by GLi.net (cheapest “mango” router is about $20) as they support iOS and android and both WiFi and usb tethering.
Also, i’ve Tried using a WiFi hotspot on the phone, and it’s the same issue - no connection to the chromecast regardless of how. However... iPhones will allow you to create a hotspot using *only* cables usb tethering, so if you set the router up to *only* accept internet via cables tether (turn off WiFi/repeater tethering), then you can have both the chromecast and iPhone connect to the routers WiFi, whilst providing net access to the router (and WiFi network) from the same iphone’s mobile data via usb. Simple howoto:
Important: Turn OFF WiFi on the phone, and turn off hotspot.
Connect phone to router via usb, accept trust settings.
Turn on personal hotspot, you’ll get a message asking whether to use WiFi or just usb (andbluetooth if it’s also turned on). Select just usb/Bluetooth.
Wait until blue connection bar shows on phone (if not, make sure routers setup properly to gain net via usb tethering).
Now, turn on WiFi on the phone, and connect to routers WiFi.
Setup chromecast as normal, selecting to connect to routers WiFi too.
Note turning hotspot off and on again whilst WiFi is running will start a hotspot on WiFi and disconnect you from router WiFi, so you’ll always have to go through process of turning WiFi off, turn hotspot on, turn WiFi on.
So you can do this with the right router and a usb connection to phone. Or maybe android and working guest mode. Otheriwse, ...fire tv anyone?
I've been getting a slow to fair connection on Steam Link, which really bothers me. I have 1GBPS WiFi from Xfinity with 40MBPS upload speed, both of which should allow me to connect to my computer very well. My computer is hardwired via ethernet, so that's not a problem, however Steam Link never labels my connection "Good." I have heard that this is the result of the WiFi on board Android opting to pick 2.4Ghz, and I've been looking to disable it. I couldn't get the package to install on Fox's Magisk for the 2.4Ghz WiFi disabler add on, so I searched around the forums and checked both my settings, as well as developer options. I even looked in data/misc/wifi, but there wasn't anything there I could tinker with to help with this. I did turn WiFi safe mode on in hopes to improve the stability of my device's WiFi, but this is as far as I've gotten.
Does anyone have suggestions for disabling 2.4Ghz or otherwise increasing my WiFi speed on here? I would really like not to have to seperate the bands manually, as last time that caused a host of problems with other people's devices in my household.
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
roirraW edor ehT said:
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
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I mean, the two seperate SSID's is a valid solution, just one I'm not currently willing to use.
Here's something strange that made me believe that it's an Android issue. I previously used Steam Link on an IPad and got a good connection, I then moved over to Android and don't. It's very bizarre. I also can't backspace in Chrome Remote Desktop on Android for some reason. Also bizarre.
I do totally want a new router, but I'm tapped out of money for the foreseeable future anyway. We have the most up to date Xfinity router though, which I think is from 2018 or some such thing, to its credit, the internet almost never disconnects, and when it does, it fixes itself within around 60 seconds. Previous xfinity routers would disconnect frequently, and would require a reset to get working again.
Easiest is to have two different SSID's and different password for each. That way your galaxy tab will only connect to 5GHz and won't use 2.4GHz as long you don't connect to it with password for it.
Since if you name 2.4GHz and 5GHz same SSID then it will connect to 2.4GHz or 5GHz and keep switching since both have same SSID and password.