Hey @ All
Simple Little Question.
Is it Possible to Connect the HTC ONE with the Playstation 3 for the Remote Play?!
I just want to get the Ps3 Screen on my ONE
Possible?!
There's no way... :/
Good idea though!
you need a video input card for your pc to view the ps3 screen on your pc... then use splashtop app to view your PC screen on your ONE
yeah this could be a joke sometime ago, but since splashtop uses your Lan to do the "mirroring" of you PC to you Android, if your pc can handle without problem the video input of ps3, and you have a VERY good router and conection, this joke is possible... the only and really problem are the controls, you can play in your house but only because the ps3 controller is wireless, and obviously not out of your house...
I have seen movies playing on my PC in my one, played zelda and borderlans 2 (installed on PC) on my ONE, Is not comfortable but possible, and if you manage low resolutions is a LOT more even possible XP
now imaginate someone make a virtual ps3 controller that could run from a PC, and using a bluetooth dongle can connect to the ps3 as a normal controller, then uses sixasis to asign common butons to the gamepad thru splashtop on the pc...then this joke could be even more possible... LOL i worked a lot today, I'm hella high xDDDD
SLver said:
you need a video input card for your pc to view the ps3 screen on your pc... then use splashtop app to view your PC screen on your ONE
yeah this could be a joke sometime ago, but since splashtop uses your Lan to do the "mirroring" of you PC to you Android, if your pc can handle without problem the video input of ps3, and you have a VERY good router and conection, this joke is possible... the only and really problem are the controls, you can play in your house but only because the ps3 controller is wireless, and obviously not out of your house...
I have seen movies playing on my PC in my one, played zelda and borderlans 2 (installed on PC) on my ONE, Is not comfortable but possible, and if you manage low resolutions is a LOT more even possible XP
now imaginate someone make a virtual ps3 controller that could run from a PC, and using a bluetooth dongle can connect to the ps3 as a normal controller, then uses sixasis to asign common butons to the gamepad thru splashtop on the pc...then this joke could be even more possible... LOL i worked a lot today, I'm hella high xDDDD
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i was thinking of Taking a closer look at the method of data transmission both through Wireshark ect... and DPI's i got at access to at work, not sure how feasible this idea will be, to Hi-Jack the data trasmission at a lower layer level to the ONE...... not sure the resolution would adjust the the One's screen though.
Because Chromecast communicates solely via WiFi, the minimum sustained wireless bandwidth is critical for streaming quality.
This is usually not a problem for "normal" Chromecast applications that pull streams from the Internet - those services are designed to adapt to and scale with the available connection speed.
Content streaming from local devices is a different scenario altogether.
Chromecast doesn't necessarily work the same as traditional set-top media players (Apple TV, WDTV, Roku, etc) when streaming media from your phone/tablet/computer (device-local) and LAN-based (from a server) media can consume more bandwidth than you would expect.
Depending on where the media is located and how it is being sent to Chromecast, up to 3x the media's bitrate may be consumed (and required) on the WiFi network. If you have high bitrate media, this can easily overload an 802.11g connection or even an 802.11n connection.
Keep in mind that connection speed is not constant, and is limited by both your environment and your router.
Other nearby WiFi devices can cause interference, and the 2.4 GHz wireless band that Chromecast uses is "crowded" with many devices like cordless telephones and microwave ovens using overlapping frequencies.
Also, routers vary in the wireless speeds they can maintain. Just because you have a 802.11n 150 Mbps connection, that does not mean your router can truly sustain 150 Mbps throughput.
Better routers advertise use cases for "HD streaming" and have Gigabit LAN ports rather than 100 Mbps LAN ports found on cheaper models.
Just like a Gigabit Ethernet USB 2.0 adapter will never reach full Gigabit speed due the USB 2.0 bottleneck (480 Mbps), cheaper routers often are limited by their internal processor's lack of forwarding speed.
See the attachments for use examples and how the required bandwidth can multiply: Note that the 10 Mbps figure is just an example.
Standard Internet stream example
YouTube, Hulu Plus, HBO Go, VEVO, etc use this methodology
Direct stream from LAN storage example
Plex (from a local Plex server) and fling (from a desktop) work this way. Desktop and Tab casting from Chrome also uses this data flow.
Data is sent from the LAN device via WiFi
Chromecast receives data from the LAN device via WiFi
Streaming from wireless device storage example
Casting content stored on the device (device-local) from Avia or RealPlayer Cloud use this method.
Data is sent from the casting device via WiFi to Chromecast
Chromecast receives data via WiFi
Forwarding from LAN storage example
Casting content stored on a LAN device (DLNA, network share, etc) from Avia uses this method.
Data is sent from the LAN device to casting device running Avia via WiFi
Data is sent from the casting device running Avia via WiFi to Chromecast - this is the forwarding piece, data travels through
Chromecast receives data via WiFi
To optimize available bandwidth for Chromecast:
Use an 802.11n dual-band router and put your other wireless devices on the 5 GHz access point whenever possible
or use a separate WiFi access point connected to the wired network for Chromecast
Use wired connections for cast sources (server/desktop/laptop) wherever possible
Reencode high-bitrate media to lower bitrate (4 Mbps should be fine for most use)
Optimize Chromecast's ability to get a stable WiFi signal - move it away from the TV using the HDMI extender or an HDMI extension cable
and/or move your router so it's closer to Chromecast (but not too close - too close can get into a "drowned in the noise" situation)
Great Post this deserves a Pin!
One big thing a lot of people don't realize is that wireless is half duplex...
If you have 2 devices on the same wireless network transferring data between each other, they will do so at half the speed, because only one device can talk at a time.
Say for example you have a PC wired to your router, and another PC on wireless.. You can copy a file between these computers at around 6MB/sec. Now you take the wired PC and connect it to the same wireless network instead. You will notice your copy speed is now around 3MB/sec.
If you are utilizing a wireless repeater to connect any of your devices to your wifi network, those connected to the repeater will experience the same halving of speed as well.
This is why having your local media source on a different band or wired helps so much.
stevewm said:
One big thing a lot of people don't realize is that wireless is half duplex...
If you have 2 devices on the same wireless network transferring data between each other, they will do so at half the speed, because only one device can talk at a time.
Say for example you have a PC wired to your router, and another PC on wireless.. You can copy a file between these computers at around 6MB/sec. Now you take the wired PC and connect it to the same wireless network instead. You will notice your copy speed is now around 3MB/sec.
If you are utilizing a wireless repeater to connect any of your devices to your wifi network, those connected to the repeater will experience the same halving of speed as well.
This is why having your local media source on a different band or wired helps so much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's a scenario I would appreciate your comment on:
I have a bridge that connects to my main router. The media source (laptop) is connected direct to the bridge which is in the living room with my CC, the CC is wireless to the bridge. Will the distance the bridge is from the main router come into play if doing local media?
sherdog16 said:
Here's a scenario I would appreciate your comment on:
I have a bridge that connects to my main router. The media source (laptop) is connected direct to the bridge which is in the living room with my CC, the CC is wireless to the bridge. Will the distance the bridge is from the main router come into play if doing local media?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It shouldn't.... Unless the run to the main router is abnormally long.
My current setup has my plex server across the house from my TV room. Two out of three routers are upstairs and one is in the room with my plex server. All but one router is set up as access points. The distance combined between the three routers is roughly 200 feet. The distance is split between the three. Then roughly 25 feet from the closest router to the ccast. I have no more noticeable lag in the TV room than using the ccast in the back bedroom that the plex server is in.
I am sure if I was going to ping test this I would have a higher latency the further away it goes.... But like I said to real world use I can't tell it slows it down.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
rans0m00 said:
I am sure if I was going to ping test this I would have a higher latency the further away it goes.... But like I said to real world use I can't tell it slows it down.
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Click to collapse
Exactly that. For home use, distance of wired connections doesn't matter much, as long as it's within specs and packets aren't being lost.
Distances for wireless connections, on the other hand, make a huge difference both in terms of latency and sustained transfer speed (bandwidth).
I've noticed that video casted from a tab is barely smooth at 480p. I am upstreaming at approx 150kbps.
When I try 720p, it struggles at 300kbps dropping to 150 alot. Using "extreme" it about the same rate but more choppy.
I have a N network with my laptop connected at 300M. I can usually transfer files around 3-6Mbps.
I'm a little confused why with chromcast, I can barely maintain 150kbps. Even if you multiply by 3, I'm not getting over 1mbps.
enricong said:
I've noticed that video casted from a tab is barely smooth at 480p. I am upstreaming at approx 150kbps.
When I try 720p, it struggles at 300kbps dropping to 150 alot. Using "extreme" it about the same rate but more choppy.
I have a N network with my laptop connected at 300M. I can usually transfer files around 3-6Mbps.
I'm a little confused why with chromcast, I can barely maintain 150kbps. Even if you multiply by 3, I'm not getting over 1mbps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's likely not a wireless connection issue but rather a processing limitation on the computer you're casting from.
I just casted a 480p tab of full-tab video and my network utilization ranged from about 1.25 Mbps to bursts of 12 Mbps. The average was around 2-3 Mbps. What's the CPU utilization look like when you're casting?
Do other Chromecast apps like YouTube work okay with 720p or 1080p videos?
bhiga said:
It's likely not a wireless connection issue but rather a processing limitation on the computer you're casting from.
I just casted a 480p tab of full-tab video and my network utilization ranged from about 1.25 Mbps to bursts of 12 Mbps. The average was around 2-3 Mbps. What's the CPU utilization look like when you're casting?
Do other Chromecast apps like YouTube work okay with 720p or 1080p videos?
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Click to collapse
CPU is an i5-2520M. Utilization is only around 20-30%. I've tried with and without Nvidia GPU.
Youtube seems ok at 720 and 1080, however, I thought that youtube videos get streamed directly to chromcast vs the laptop.
Also, when I stream a youtube video, I have no idea if chromecast sticks with my browser setting or figures out its own quality setting based on bandwidth. I thought it was the later.
Are you using regular Chrome, or Chrome Canary?
enricong said:
CPU is an i5-2520M. Utilization is only around 20-30%. I've tried with and without Nvidia GPU.
Youtube seems ok at 720 and 1080, however, I thought that youtube videos get streamed directly to chromcast vs the laptop.
Also, when I stream a youtube video, I have no idea if chromecast sticks with my browser setting or figures out its own quality setting based on bandwidth. I thought it was the later.
Are you using regular Chrome, or Chrome Canary?
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Click to collapse
Interesting... You're correct that YouTube grabs the stream directly and determines the best settings. But if you have a 1080p TV and YouTube is pulling a 480p stream, it'll definitely be noticeable - especially on things like text.
My Chrome is Version 32.0.1700.107 m
and Google Cast Extension is 14.123.1.4
My system is relatively old, but it was a powerhouse in its day and still fine for what I do with it.
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
Dual Quad-Core AMD Opteron 8389 2.9 GHz
32 GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 7750
bhiga said:
Interesting... You're correct that YouTube grabs the stream directly and determines the best settings. But if you have a 1080p TV and YouTube is pulling a 480p stream, it'll definitely be noticeable - especially on things like text.
My Chrome is Version 32.0.1700.107 m
and Google Cast Extension is 14.123.1.4
My system is relatively old, but it was a powerhouse in its day and still fine for what I do with it.
Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
Dual Quad-Core AMD Opteron 8389 2.9 GHz
32 GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 7750
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm running 35.0.1840.2 of Chrome and 14.123.1.5 of the extension.
I just tried installing regular chrome and had the same results.
your computer is def more powerful than mine, but I don't think thats the issue with such a low cpu utilization.
enricong said:
I'm running 35.0.1840.2 of Chrome and 14.123.1.5 of the extension.
I just tried installing regular chrome and had the same results.
your computer is def more powerful than mine, but I don't think thats the issue with such a low cpu utilization.
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Click to collapse
Weird... do you have the Automatically resize the browser to best fit the receiver screen when casting a tab option enabled? That should provide lowest impact as it should eliminate the need to scale.
Does it make a difference if your laptop is plugged into wall power, or on a wired instead of wireless connection?
bhiga said:
Weird... do you have the Automatically resize the browser to best fit the receiver screen when casting a tab option enabled? That should provide lowest impact as it should eliminate the need to scale.
Does it make a difference if your laptop is plugged into wall power, or on a wired instead of wireless connection?
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Click to collapse
ok, I just tried the wired connection and got some results. on 480p I got 150kbps, 720p got 300kbps, and extreme got around 600kbps.
720 and above started looking a little choppy. Picture Quality even at extreme was quite poor.
enricong said:
ok, I just tried the wired connection and got some results. on 480p I got 150kbps, 720p got 300kbps, and extreme got around 600kbps.
720 and above started looking a little choppy. Picture Quality even at extreme was quite poor.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My CPU load jumps about 15-20% when casting too, so that seems in-line.
Weird, it's almost like something in Windows is throttling something...
You don't have some kind of third-party firewall or anything, do you?
If you're using the Windows Firewall, check the Advanced Settings for Inbound and Outbound rules on Wireless Portable Devices. My rules for those are disabled, but some folks have reported toggling them helped.
bhiga said:
My CPU load jumps about 15-20% when casting too, so that seems in-line.
Weird, it's almost like something in Windows is throttling something...
You don't have some kind of third-party firewall or anything, do you?
If you're using the Windows Firewall, check the Advanced Settings for Inbound and Outbound rules on Wireless Portable Devices. My rules for those are disabled, but some folks have reported toggling them helped.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have Avast which has some network protection
Tried toggling the settings in Windows firewall
I even tried disabling the firewall and anti-virus completely.
no difference
enricong said:
I have Avast which has some network protection
Tried toggling the settings in Windows firewall
I even tried disabling the firewall and anti-virus completely.
no difference
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only other thing I can think of is to try unbinding Avast's network filter from the network interface (Properties the device itself and try un-checking any extra computer-looking icons) and trying it, often times disabling the firewall doesn't fully disable the network filter.
bhiga said:
It's likely not a wireless connection issue but rather a processing limitation on the computer you're casting from.
I just casted a 480p tab of full-tab video and my network utilization ranged from about 1.25 Mbps to bursts of 12 Mbps. The average was around 2-3 Mbps. What's the CPU utilization look like when you're casting?
Do other Chromecast apps like YouTube work okay with 720p or 1080p videos?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to clarify, are you referring to BITS or BYTES?
I refer to bytes, 150kbytes/sec = approx 1mbit/sec
enricong said:
Just to clarify, are you referring to BITS or BYTES?
I refer to bytes, 150kbytes/sec = approx 1mbit/sec
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm usually pretty careful about MB (Megabytes) vs Mb (Megabits) so I'm referring to megabits. so divide my figures by 8 for bytes.
bhiga said:
I'm usually pretty careful about MB (Megabytes) vs Mb (Megabits) so I'm referring to megabits. so divide my figures by 8 for bytes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well, even with bits, you're still faster than me.
I submitted a support ticket to google. still trying to get through the general "is it plugged in?" questions.
enricong said:
well, even with bits, you're still faster than me.
I submitted a support ticket to google. still trying to get through the general "is it plugged in?" questions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, it took me 2 or 3 rounds to get past the basics... Please keep us updated on what you find out.
Hello,
I recently bought a 25$ worth miracast dongle from EBAY like this one,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370964211006
And I thought to share my experience after playing with it for a few days.
First, when you purchase, make sure you by a dongle with at least 256mb of ram since it uses it like a graphic card on your pc.
The package includes: the dongle, charging cable, hdmi extension cable, and a very tiny user manual in English.
About the HDMI extension cable: for esthetics reason I chose to stick the dongle directly to the HDMI input in the back of my Samsung TV. However, it seems that the reception is weaker that way and I experienced some freezes, until I used the extension cable and allowed an "eye contact" between my lg g2 and the dongle.
Setup: the setup is extremely simple- one cable to HDMI input, one cable to USB input (just for power). When you turn on your TV and choose the appropriate hdmi channel you will see a status screen. There is a micro switch on the dongle surface that allows you to toggle between modes (dlna, miracast and airplay) make sure you choose the miracast mode.
My device is D802 running stock 4.2.2. I just turned on the miracast switch on the quick settings menu and choose the device. A few seconds for pairing and the magic begins…
Performance:
There is a standard delay between 0.5 to 1 second. Orientation change responds very quickly and flawlessly. I was surprised that all audio and sound effects are also mirrored. Standard apps work very nice within the limit of the delay: mail, messaging, Calendar , calculator, contacts etc.
Rich media apps: gallery, maps, camera, image editing. Usually works well . Sometimes when doing fast transitions or zooming, the image gets pixilated until it stables.
Internet browser and browsing based apps: works extremely nice except when scrolling very fast, then sometimes the pixilation issue appears for a second.
Video content on the internet (incl. youtube): here is the worst issue. Since, most of the wifi bandwidth is dedicated to the wifi-direct for miracast, there is very little left for internet browsing, so watching stream video especially if in HD quality is almost impossible.
Video playback: there is some difference between lg stock video player and others (I've used mobo player). The stock player is integrated with miracast and blacks out the device screen while playing video. Playing video with this player works remarkably well even in full HD. Quiet rarely some frame dropping will occur. Mobo players performance shows more frame dropping and video will also run on yours device screen.
Gaming: it seems that miracast mirroring does not consume to match processing power (at least not from our G2 beast) and most of casual games run uninterrupted. However, due to the delay I've mentioned it is almost impossible to play the on the tv, just mirror it maybe for someone else to watch.
In summary,
This cheap tiny thing can easily sit in your pocket/purse/bag and can be used as am "emergency media streamer" on the road, at work, friends and even at home,
Thank you for taking your time out to write this useful content. Wish I get this device in India!
Sent from my LG-D802 using xda app-developers app
Thanks for the review. I was eyeing some cheap Miracast dongles on Amazon but was hesitant to pull the trigger. This review, mostly based on the lag and inability to view HD video, convinced me to abstain.
I'm wondering if one of the expensive (Asus, Netgear) Miracast devices does any better. We need a side by side comparison.
Hi all,
A few years back I made a system for in the car based on a Raspberry Pi 2, it incorporated a Rpi2, a hdmi splitter and OSMC installed. I made 2 7" IPS LCD screens with custom made housing that attached to the front seat head rests. This way I could play movies in the car for the children when we were traveling with the car. It really worked well and I could control the movies by using the wifi access point feature in OSMC and the Kodi remote control app for Android.
Downside is that both children (a girl and a boy) have to watch the same movie and now that they're 6 and 5 there's a constant struggle as my son doesn't like barbie movies and my daughter does not like teenage mutant ninja turtles!
So, I want to make a new one. My plan is to use a Rpi3 as media server with hard drive attached and kodi on 2 android tablets connected via Wifi to the Rpi3. This way it must me possible for them to choose and watch their own movie seperately.
Is this possible? And is the internal wifi adapter fast enough as I didn't have too much luck with this (very unstable en below average speeds). I could also us a Wifi access point connected to the RJ45 network connector. Or buy the new RPi3+ which has a 300 Mb network port and maybe improved wifi?
I looked everywhere for some guide but I don't seem to find it.
Anyone good tips??
Yeah it's surely possible dude/dudette. But the question is would it be entirely practical is a different story.
The RPi 3B+ has the network capabilities you are after (as long as you're not streaming 1080p across the network for both tablets), the only thing is for it to be effective would be the tablets need 5ghz connections also to utilise the 5ghz networking speeds. I don't have the data sheet on hand which tells me the speeds but 2.4ghz certainly wouldn't suffice both streaming.
The only problem you would encounter would be is Read speeds of the RPi 3B+ and is it worth destroying a hard drive by putting it in a car (vibrations/G forces *if you crash*) is it worth it? I know HDDs are cheap these days so it might not even be a worthwhile issue in today's world.
I wouldn't bother with an ethernet connection, you could utilise the USB to RJ45 Gigabit speeds it apparently allows. Yet again Read speeds might be the downfall on SD cards unless you have a uber SD card.
2022 WORKAROUND TO PARSEC ON TABLETS
This guide is intended for anyone who is trying to get Parsec running on an Android or even Apple tablets. It would also apply to anyone really wanting to play ANY PC game on ANY tablet.
Disclaimer:
This IS a workaround and NOT a way to FIX the issues with Parsec Android.
If you are interested in how my Parsec Android testing went, and if your really want to give it a try see Parsec below for my suggestions.
Otherwise if you just want to skip to the good stuff head down to WORKAROUND
PARSEC ANDROID
Parsec Android is in the EXPERIMENTAL phase, and even after testing on multiple versions and variations of devices I could not get the decoding to work. Regardless of H.264 vs H.265, Frame Rate, Resolution, Overlay, or any other setting for that matter. I have seen that some capable people are playing around with settings in the actual configuration file, and I am sure SOME people have gotten it to work but I don’t not see it as a viable option as this point in time. More development is needed, and I am a WARP supporter of Parsec myself.
If you DO want to give it a try, I have personally found that the Android APK version V3.150.046.00 seemed to be the closest to working for me across all versions. (You can find it online from APK resources) Coincidentally I noticed that this version of the APK has a lot of options that FUTURE versions remove. Not sure why they decided to remove thinks like the H.265 vs H.264, probably because compatibility wise it was better to just force H.264 and remove the option. Not sure just guessing. I did not have a lot of luck with the current V3.150.078.00 version. Which was a little disappointing but hopefully they are working on it. Even the App resolution is worse, the login screen from .046.00 version looked amazing, now its looks very pixelated like they dropped the main menu resolution.
WORKAROUND
What you need:
A windows based Parsec Host Machine
A windows based Parsec Client Machine
An Android tablet within the last decade, or an Apple Ipad of any generation
A Bluetooth controller of some sort
Bluetooth Headset of some sort
A Bluetooth 5.0 receiver (Sorry Bluetooth 5.0 is leaps and bounds better, get a 5.0 dongle)
Basic Theory:
Parsec Windows works better than any version of Parsec, so we need to ensure that both the HOST and client machines are Windows based. Preferable Windows 10 as this is what used. The client machine does not have to be very powerful, a cheap laptop is a good option, the reason is we are going to be setting this to the resolution of our tablet. Which is most cases is relative low.
After you have your client and hosts setup the next step is the workaround part. As we have said Parsec android is still far from a stable version, so we need to find a way to work around it for now while still using the Parsec software.
Now you have two options here. I would suggest you use both option depending on the game you are playing. Regardless install the following programs to your CLIENT MACHINE as well as your TABLET/IPAD.
Software to Install;
Spacedesk (www.spacedesk.net)
Splashtop Wired XDisplay (https://www.splashtop.com/en-ca/wiredxdisplay)
Once both of those are installed on your CLIENT PC and your TABLET/IPAD. Do the following;
For Splashtop Wired XDisplay you need to turn on USB debugging mode. Google this for your specific device, very easy to do.
For Spacedesk you need to open the application on your CLIENT and read the IP address of this machine (It will be listed on the main page), then on your tablet enter this IP address in the APP to create the wireless connection between your tablet and your Client PC.
Now that both of these tools are configured here is the fun part;
Using Splashtop Wired XDisplay (Wired, HIGHEST RESOLUTION, ZERO LAG)
If you are playing games where FPS and LAG are very important, IE when I play warzone for example. Use Splashtop Wired XDisplay from your client machine to the tablet.
This will basically let you use the tablet as the PRIMARY MONITOR (Make sure to set this in windows display “Only on display 2”) for your client windows machine.
I realize that you could just use the laptop as a the client and not need the tablet, but personally speaking Id rather have a laptop under my couch and just connect a cable with the tablet on my lap then use the laptop itself. In my case my client is a very small M73 Tiny so it basically gives me a display that is just as compact.
…Not the point as we are about to get to the wireless part that you all really care about.
Using Spacedesk (Wireless, Decent resolution, Minor LAG)
I have used spacedesk to play games like CSgo and Warzone but there is a bit of lag, I would say its playable in my opinion as the lag isn’t brutally bad or anything. For basically NON-FPS games I have no issue with the amount of lag here, I play a lot of RPG games in this mode and have no issues.
Start the Spacedesk Host program on your Client PC.
Open the Android APP and connect to the Client PC that we setup earlier when we put in its IP address.
You should now see your full desktop of your client PC, and be able to click Parsec and load into your HOST PC as normal. Except you now have the video feed directly to the tablet by Spacedesk.
Caviate:
To get this to work well you NEED a Bluetooth 5.0 received on the Client PC. I have a 5.0 bluetooth dongle I got off Amazon in my M73T. You setup your controller AND your audio through the client PC directly to your Bluetooth device. So you do not have any addition input lag then you work using parsec on the client pc directly, same with audio.
This means that the only thing the Spacedesk app is taking care of the is the video signal to the device, all the input and audio is direct from the client PC instead of through the tablet.
It just means you need to have the client PC you use (Just buy a cheap laptop and keep it closed at all times, basically using it as a server for Parsec) Both of these tools can be initiated from power on so you don’t actually need any screen. Like in my case I have the M73T Tiny that I can carry around as it is the size of a book, full 64bit windows 10 capable. I just power it on wherever I want to play and walk away from it, the tablet automatically grabs the video feed and gives me the login screen.
I recognize this is not an idea solution, as the ideal solution would be a stable Parsec Android app, but who knows when that will be. So for the time being THIS does work for playing Games Wirelessly as long as you have a spare laptop, or willing to invest very little money.
My M73T Tiny was $80, and it came with a 1TB drive. So basically free lol. They are everywhere, highly recommended as a client machine. Even on my full size 55” TV I stream 1440P through parsec and its flawless.
Example of me running warzone wirelessly.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1238JsH1vzgoMqtKXJzllPjKgCEqHy5DB/view?usp=sharing
with a wired Splashtop connection the quality is unreal. Try it.
Cheers,
Sniper Fox 22
Forgot to mention. Set your Parsec HOST resolution to that of your tablet. Set your client pc resolution to that of your tablet (most times this happens automatically when you connect to the apps on tablet) it helps that a tablets resolution is lower than most pcs as parsec will run smoother at lower resolutions. At this low a resolution switch from low latency to best quality on your HOST computer as well.