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At Last, I can take great pics!!

I have been very dissapointed with the performance of the X1 camera even after installing the R3 cab. It was imposiible to capture anything that moved because by the time it took the photo my subject had left the vicinity lol.
Following the advice of another poster (sorry, cant remeber who but thanks) I set my focus to infinity. Now, I can take full 3mp, fine quality pics, use the zoom function and capture crisp, clear images...even when the subject is moving. This combined with Resco Photo Viewer has been the final missing piece of the X1 jigsaw.......forget the X2 Ill now keep my X1 for as long as I can

Hah, I will check this out than!

Nice advice, works flawless! The pictures are not shaken anymore...
But tell me: how do you zoom? Does the x1 have the option to zoom?
Cheers

Zooming
Use the volume up and down button. Didnt work with 3mp and auto focus but works a treat now!!

just remember there is no optical zoom only digital zooma, so the more you zoom the worse the picture.

Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?

oTToToTenTanz said:
Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?
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Yes, have installed R3A cab so maybe that's the difference with the zoom function. Well worth doing as it also has auto flash and GPS functionality.

You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.

i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!

Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.

ring-bearer said:
Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.
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The infinity "trick" doesnt effect the ability of camera to take good pics in poor light. It just lets you take good quality pics instantly rather than suffering the lag between button push and photo taken.
Sonus said:
You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.
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I have my camera set for 3mp and fine quality, have just double checked and it seem that with the R3A cab installed the zoom function is available with all of the focus options.

hey thanks for the advice, it really helps.

biernes_atrece said:
i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!
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As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine

flashpanda said:
As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine
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Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)

harveydent said:
Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)
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Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.

flashpanda said:
Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.
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That's what I do, actually I usually include a secondary subject in the background to make the DOF blur easily appreciated.
Plus, I have a modded camdriver for the k850 which allows manual focus. No luck finding one for the X1, though.

Thanks Crank1.
I was getting peeved about the quality of the pics and the lag.
No I get perfect pics every time! (well for a phone camera)

manual focus would be so awesome

Why is hdr a separate camera mode?

I don't get hdr is a separate mode and just not on by default for taking regular pictures? Wouldn't you want hdr on most of the time?

worldsoutro said:
I don't get hdr is a separate mode and just not on by default for taking regular pictures? Wouldn't you want hdr on most of the time?
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Because they wanted to appeal to photographers and HDR is a dirty word.
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Hi worldsoutro,
Photography is all about capturing light. And HDR is just another way of doing it. But it's not main way of taking photos. So, it totally makes sense to have HDR as an option. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which in return allows you to combine whites (bright spots) and blacks (shadows) in one image. In order to create such image, the camera has to capture at least three images.
1st - under-exposed (this image will give you very nice and dark shadows).
2nd - correct exposure (normal photo).
3rd - over-exposed (capturing those whites, sunlight, anything bright).
Then software will take all three shots and compose one image. The three images is a bare minimum, and there are methods that use 7 or more images to combine into one.
The biggest downside of HDR is color representation. All colors are going to be in extreme ranges. Also taking HDR photos is probably heavy on the battery, since you are probably capturing more than one image very quickly and processing it (HDR in Huawei might all be simulated via software as well, so it might be just taking one image and processes it to make it look like HDR).
If someone has info about how Huawei has implemented HDR photography, please post! I'm actually curious now.

zed'sded_bb said:
Hi worldsoutro,
Photography is all about capturing light. And HDR is just another way of doing it. But it's not main way of taking photos. So, it totally makes sense to have HDR as an option. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which in return allows you to combine whites (bright spots) and blacks (shadows) in one image. In order to create such image, the camera has to capture at least three images.
1st - under-exposed (this image will give you very nice and dark shadows).
2nd - correct exposure (normal photo).
3rd - over-exposed (capturing those whites, sunlight, anything bright).
Then software will take all three shots and compose one image. The three images is a bare minimum, and there are methods that use 7 or more images to combine into one.
The biggest downside of HDR is color representation. All colors are going to be in extreme ranges. Also taking HDR photos is probably heavy on the battery, since you are probably capturing more than one image very quickly and processing it (HDR in Huawei might all be simulated via software as well, so it might be just taking one image and processes it to make it look like HDR).
If someone has info about how Huawei has implemented HDR photography, please post! I'm actually curious now.
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Your description of combining exposures is correct, but you got the reasons for the different exposures wrong, underexposed is to retain detail in highlights, and overexposed is to retain detail in the shadows.
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

zed'sded_bb said:
Hi worldsoutro,
Photography is all about capturing light. And HDR is just another way of doing it. But it's not main way of taking photos. So, it totally makes sense to have HDR as an option. HDR stands for High Dynamic Range, which in return allows you to combine whites (bright spots) and blacks (shadows) in one image. In order to create such image, the camera has to capture at least three images.
1st - under-exposed (this image will give you very nice and dark shadows).
2nd - correct exposure (normal photo).
3rd - over-exposed (capturing those whites, sunlight, anything bright).
Then software will take all three shots and compose one image. The three images is a bare minimum, and there are methods that use 7 or more images to combine into one.
The biggest downside of HDR is color representation. All colors are going to be in extreme ranges. Also taking HDR photos is probably heavy on the battery, since you are probably capturing more than one image very quickly and processing it (HDR in Huawei might all be simulated via software as well, so it might be just taking one image and processes it to make it look like HDR).
If someone has info about how Huawei has implemented HDR photography, please post! I'm actually curious now.
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Over-exposure gives usable shadows and under-exposure usable highlights [emoji16]
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

So in a bright sunny day should I always shoot with HDR?

Good catch guys. Yeah, overexposure allows you to get all details in the shaded areas and preserve them. While underexposed photo would exaggerate light sources.
I suppose we are turning this into HDR topic altogether.
worldsoutro - I think you can use HDR whenever you think you will like the result. Photography is art in the end. I would say that during midday hours (when the sun light is the harshest) and at night (with appropriate light) HDR can give you some cool results.
Play around with different modes. Check out Pro mode too. You basically have a full control over the scene. It's pretty cool.
Hope it all was helpful. Cheers!

Auto (photo) mode uses HDR whenever it deems it appropriate - it's those situations where it says "sharpening - hold the device still" (also the same situations where most of the criticisms of excessive sharpening apply).
It's a less elegant implementation of the auto HDR you see in some other phones, and one you can't turn off without switching to pro mode (but then pro mode is very good on the P20 Pro and also allows all its settings to remain on auto, so usually not a big problem making that switch when you need it).

worldsoutro said:
So in a bright sunny day should I always shoot with HDR?
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It depends on what outcome you have in mind the time you take the photo. I like playing with light and although I like wide dynamic range look, I also like to take photos with high contrast, so auto mode gets played some times and I have to lock the exposure the way I want
I am using dslrs for many many years (always travelling with a backpack full of lenses) but I think this phone's camera is really amazing. In really low light situations you can take way sharper photos than what you would with a dslr when handheld, and that's something.
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk

Depth vs. Bokeh Mode

Can somebody explain the difference between taking a picture in the standard "Photo" or "Pro" mode with Depth turned on vs. taking a picture in Bokeh mode? Is there and advantage of one over the other. Also, does capturing Depth have any effect for editing the RAW files in Lightroom? The camera processes pictures much faster with Depth turned OFF. So what I'd like to know is if there is any point in capturing Depth for regular everyday pictures (scenery, random family pics, etc.) in Photo or Pro mode vs. using Bokeh mode when I want that background blur effect.

I am rather confused by this too. According to the manual Bokeh is if you know you will want to change the focus area after taking the shot and Depth mode is for creating "a sense of depth and perspective". I suspect the depth images contain a lot more information than the Bokeh ones so will give you the potential for more impressive results. I just took test images in both modes of the same scene and actually the Bokeh image was the larger file (11MB versus 6.9MB), but I believe the depth mode data may be heavily compressed.

I have this phone and i am verry happy with this phone.i buy the phone on 15 march
But when i start the phone the first time there was a update.after the update i start the camera but i bever Find the bokeh modus on the camera app.is this function gone after the update ? Sorry my englisch is ferry bad .

Hi, you have to go into the camera app and select Bokeh mode from the list of modes about a quarter of the way up from the bottom (left to Pro). Depth mode is different and is activated from within the camera in Pro mode from the options at the top. Its the item to the right of the "hamburger". Hope that helps!

Thank you ferry much.
I have camera app 91.9.1160.53
And i still cant find bokeh .
I found a newer version of the app and try to install it.
IT was version 91.9.1170.61
When i open the app i can see bokeh.
Butt the app crashes when i choose bokeh.
I removed the update.
Do you Nokia 9 users have the same camera app version ?
Greetings

look at the camera settings and select mode management. Maybe it is switched off there?
I have the same version as you and I see it

If the camera app crashes, you should charge the battery. It's a known bug.

Oke thanks ,gonna try IT out
This is how mode management looks like
https://ibb.co/HrZcwph

The difference is that Bokeh Mode puts the fake bokeh into the RAW file and you cant undo it anymore, right?

The biggest difference is... Don't use Bokeh, just enable Depth and set your focus manually. Bokeh is basically just a quick point-and-shoot version that tries to identify the target. Manual depth editing allows full control over it after the picture is taken. Just use the Depth editing.

Harfainx said:
The biggest difference is... Don't use Bokeh, just enable Depth and set your focus manually. Bokeh is basically just a quick point-and-shoot version that tries to identify the target. Manual depth editing allows full control over it after the picture is taken. Just use the Depth editing.
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This , just use Depth, works much better.
Bokeh mode on Nokia 9 is horrendous most of the time, it blurs some parts and leaves other parts unblurred (seems like the help Google provided did NOT include machine learning blurring lol).

No burst and time-lapse photo mode?

Why is there no burst or time-lapse photo mode?
Time-lapse workaround: The app Intervalometer hijacks the stock camera app and simulates touching the shutter buttons, so you get a programmable time-lapse in all modes, Raw, Night-mode, all the 3 cameras. Probably better than Huawei could ever make it.
As for burst mode: its there if you set the resolution to 10MP or lower, no burst mode for 40MP or with raw files.

Time lapse mode can be found on the last page of the camera options where slow motion , monochrome , moving picture is. To take pictures in burst mode you just press the camera button and it will take pictures in burst mode untill you release it.

giwta said:
Time lapse mode can be found on the last page of the camera options where.
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No that's a crappy low-res time-lapse video, I'm talking about photos.
Found the burst mode though it has its limitations, that aren't mentioned (how should the user know). They only work in Photo Mode and only if you set the resolution to 10MP or less.

nurps said:
No that's a crappy low-res time-lapse video, I'm talking about photos.
Found the burst mode though it has its limitations, that aren't mentioned (how should the user know). They only work in Photo Mode and only if you set the resolution to 10MP or less.
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Go in play store, ans download Framelaps application. It is very good. You have so much options. It is taking photos and you can make 4K video, not 720p like in original camera application. Too bad for Huawei that's is not so hard to do.
Only bad thing with Framelaps you cant you Suoer Wide Angle.

Probably can't do a lot of things, like the correct colors for the new sensor. And yes, kind of want that for the ultra wide.

nurps said:
Probably can't do a lot of things, like the correct colors for the new sensor. And yes, kind of want that for the ultra wide.
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Yes I know but it helps more the p30 pro software camera (stupid 720p).
If you have DJI Osmo 2 you have good application for timelaps. But still no super wide-angle

Timelapse with the original camera app in high quality
Framelapse is not bad, but as mentioned, you can't use wide angle lens nor the quality of the original app. Solution:
Use "intervalometer"! This app is working together with any other camera app. It works as an overlay, means, it's running background and given impulse to the camera button with any desired interval while using the camera settings in the original camera app. You can not only use any interval with any resolution (40mp too) but choose a delay when shooting from day to night. The app costs here in Germany 1,89 €.

Grab a copy of Intervalometer from the Google Play store, then you can shoot your own timelapses with whatever camera application you want. That's what i do and it works great!
/ Magnus

With just one camera and no chance to select the other two, probably wrong colors and no raw files support, useless.
EDIT: Oh wait, this thing is actually useful, its no camera app instead it hijacks what ever is on the screen and simulates a touch in the timed intervall.
So it remote controls the manufactures app with whatever is set there.
Nice. Sorry I dismissed it so fast, I was just expecting another dumb comment but this is really useful.

Exactly, it is one of the best applications i have found on the Google Play store and for this purpose it's fantastic! you can shoot RAW timelapse sequences if you want to, the possibilities are infinite since it's not relying on it's own camera but let's you use any camera application you want. It's worth paying for it since it does such a great job with timelapse photography.
/ Magnus

Ok, the best timelaps is INTERVALOMETAR.
You can use every mode, normal, super wide angle, HDR, Night mode, zoom and etc...

Possibility best camera performance settings

I know this is an old phone and the new xperia 1 is far better. However, old but not obsolete :highfive: As an owner for almost half a year. I have been using (testing actually as I am not quite sure about the camera) the camera from time to time and here are my thoughts and the settings that creat tge best overall picture quality.
Ratio : 4:3
As choosing 4:3 can have more accurate autofocus then 16:9 and better sharpness sometimes.
Megapixels : 12mp for daily use (19mp for landscape and or objects far away)
From my testing, using 12mp can actually have less blurry pictures(Taking picture handheld). As according to sony tgat reading out a 19mp picture takes the sensor 1/120 seconds, a 12mp picture might be less than that. And since people may argue that 19mp have better detail to the picture while technically it is true. However the sensor is too small and the benefit is negligible on most of the shots.(But you still can see the difference) Night shot will get less noise too. (Its a noisy mess nonetheless )
Edit : Digital zooming in 19mp mode get much better detail than 12mp
Predictive Capture : Off for image quality (Auto if you have a shaky hands)
This is an interesting one. As sony won't tell you that turning this on can reduce chances of taking blurry pictures because the prediction analyze the viewfinder in real time(taking pictures with the dram time to time) which reduce the time of focusing and reading out picture when you press the button. (But pictures taken with it turned off sometimes have better details)
Object Tracking : On
It detects motion and counter any handshake(e.g. When taking photos on a car)
Its great to track slowly moving cars and buses too.
Also, it applies Scene Detection when you focus manually (e.g. Food mode or Tripod mode) which turnning it off and focus manually with a Blue Circle will not.
Auto-capturing : don't bother as it does not affect image quality
Lens correction : image quality
Edit : (offtopic) Steadyshot on actually fix the distortion on camcorder while taking videos.
Buttom line : The xz3 have a great sensor. That's what I can say (not lens, not software )
Offtopic : It will be great if Raw noise reduction comes to xz3 :highfive:
If you have any ways of getting better pictures, I would like to hear from you!! Correct me if I am wrong:highfive:
On Android 9 with software 52.0.A.8.131 no root
Edit : Predictive Capture on may cause ghosting on moving image. Better turn it off for better image quality.