Related
Hi, hope someone can check.
Is it supposed to be a "block" or separator between the pins in the USB contact on the tytn2 ? or is it just "stand alone" out from the device ?
like
pin 1-4
separator/block
pin 5-11
?
pinout
I think this might help:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=72494&d=1203885397
i found out, someone sendt me a picture from the usb contact.
seems i'm missing a plastic "block"/"separator" in the center of the contact.
I only have the pins sticking out from the device.
i've seen a DIY guide to change here on XDA, just need to find it again
Hi,
I have an old adpter for a car from Brodit for my old iPaq h2210. I found that the connector is physically the same for my "new" HTC Alpine (Qtek 2020i).
I found that most pinouts from http://pinouts.ru/PDA/ipaq_22p_pinout.shtml seem to match with the connector (small SMD board). The connector is only for Power and serial.
Pin 1-4 are connected together to form "+"
Pin 22,15,10 are solded together to form (obviously) GND
The Pins for RxD and TxD are hidden under the connector (damn small SMD).
Does anybody know the correct pinout of Alpine? Is it the same as http://pinouts.ru/PDA/pda_wallaby_pinout.shtml ?
Which pins do I exactly need to sold together for "+" and GND?
I think I cut the conductor path with a knife and solder together the appropriate pins and sold them together.
Do you think this is correct? First cut the paths for V_ADP and GND and then sold together 20,21,22 for V_ADP and 16,17,18 for GND?
Thank you,
dy/dx
has anyone built an MHL with OTG & charging cable that works yet?
if not I have just received my fully pined 11pin to 6 pin adapter, a working mhl cable, and I'll go start and see how far I get, but if someone knows of one thats done to save the time etc..
what i'd like to know is the full pinout for all 11 pins?
not even found a diagram for this new connector yet showing pin number ordering!
Well I have the mhl/hdmi cable now, let the hacking commence...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fhBikVZXPg
well the build has stalled for a few days, somehow something went wrong with the tv (psu) and it seems to have 'zapped' my mhl/hdmi adapter....
the adapter communicates with the phone, but i get green garbage on screen.
So to pass the time i took the 11pin micro USB plug apart...
heres how they get 11 pins into a 5 pin hole...
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Hey op thxs for info. Been wondering about that 11 pin setup myself.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Xparent Blue Tapatalk 2
Whats a cheap 11pin mhl/hdmi cable?
flez1966 said:
well the build has stalled for a few days, somehow something went wrong with the tv (psu) and it seems to have 'zapped' my mhl/hdmi adapter....
the adapter communicates with the phone, but i get green garbage on screen.
So to pass the time i took the 11pin micro USB plug apart...
heres how they get 11 pins into a 5 pin hole...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, considering USB is engineered as a hub design from ground up in the first place, do you think it would be possible to solder an OTG adapter to the 5 pins?
Hopefully this may be of some help, I have also been trying to make one of these for the last few weeks.
So far, from purchasing this MHL - hdmi adapter, I have managed to map most of the pins, but am having difficulties getting USB OTG to work.
Charge, HDMI, and PC data connection work, but i still need to find the USB OTG pins for "smart dock" mode.
I assumed that this would work for USB OTG but it doesn't seem to work for me, it acts as USB Slave not Host (I.e. Connection to PC not HDD/Keyboard)
so far the pins i have identified:
(normal usb part)
Pin 1 - Vcc
Pin 2 - USB - (Slave)
Pin 3 - USB + (Slave)
Pin 4 - Sense (40.2K Ohm)
Pin 5 - Gnd
(extended USB Part)
Pin 6 - ? (Audio/USB host?)
Pin 7 - ? (Audio/USB host?)
Pin 8 - DP (MHL +)
Pin 9 - DN (MHL -)
Pin 10 - MHL ID (connected to ID Pin of MHL Adapter)
Pin 11 - Gnd
I will try and upload some images tomorrow, and a diagram of the plug.
My 11pin mhl cable has a y piece with a usb on one side and hdmi plug on the other. No box like yours.
Do these cables have any components in them?
Is it worth me doing any testing with my cable, what actually activates otg? My son had a low end android tab and there was a menu option to change the usb mode, so how is it triggered on note 2, is it a signal, resistor, or just the presence of a peripheral?
There must be a way of spicing in a otg cable onto an mhl cable.
Smart docks wont be available in uk until march, but I would rather do it by myself with cables anyway.
First of all, sorry i didnt get arount to uplading any images yesterday.
Im in the same boat as you, I didnt think I could get a smart dock, and didnt fancy paying £100 for something I should be able to make for £10. I have since found 2 uk shops that sell them for £60.
On my MHL adaper the socket is built into the body if the device, but it only supplies 5v to the device, no data pins are connected through it unfortunately.
Inside these adapters, there is a chip to convert MHL's 2 data cables into hdmi's ~11 data cables.
On the note2 the modes are activated by a resistor on the sense pin of the USB plug, (pin 4) For smartdock mode, 40.2k ohm resistor is used.
The main problem I am having is acessing the pins, as they are so small on the plug. Im waiting for some copper clad pcb so I can make a breakout board for the usb connector.
Sent from my GT-N7105
Sorry i tried linking to the UK sellers in-case you are interested, but my post count is too low to do so.
www(Dot)clove(Dot)co(Dot)uk/samsung-galaxy-note-ii-smart-dock
www(Dot)mobilefun(Dot)co(Dot)uk/samsung-galaxy-note-2-s3-smart-dock-edd-s20eweg-p36945.htm?referer=FR_PROD-PR3&utm_source=google%2Bproducts&utm_medium=comparison&utm_campaign=google%2Bproducts
OK I have now opened another 5 to 11pin connector, this is the moulded plastic variety...
This is an image of what mine looks like, but i did not use this supplier, i just bought on ebay...
..and inside
01jacksonb. said:
(extended USB Part)
Pin 6 - Gnd
Pin 7 - MHL ID (connected to ID Pin of MHL Adapter)
Pin 8 - DN (MHL -)
Pin 9 - DP (MHL +)
Pin 10 - ? (Audio/USB host?)
Pin 11 - ? (Audio/USB host?)
I will try and upload some images tomorrow, and a diagram of the plug.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you work out which is pin 6? Was it marked etc?
flez1966 said:
How did you work out which is pin 6? Was it marked etc?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No markings on mine, I just started numbering them as I noted them down (left to right), however i didn't follow standard pin mapping, and think i have noted them in reverse order
The following should be standard numbering. (if Samsung release a spec or diagram of the plug )
Here are the images as promised.
Smart dock pins:
Pin 1 - Vcc
Pin 2 - USB - (Slave)
Pin 3 - USB + (Slave)
Pin 4 - ID/Sense (40.2K Ohm)
Pin 5 - Gnd
Pin 6 - ? (Audio/USB host?)
Pin 7 - ? (Audio/USB host?)
Pin 8 - DP (MHL +)
Pin 9 - DN (MHL -)
Pin 10 - MHL ID (connected to ID Pin of MHL Adapter)
Pin 11 - Gnd
---------- Post added 6th February 2013 at 12:37 AM ---------- Previous post was 5th February 2013 at 11:42 PM ----------
After watching a review of the smart dock, in which the S3 is said that USB doesn't work in dock mode, and along with the Note 2 working with PC Docking. I can only assume that the data has to be on the pins 6 & 7.
The next step is identifying the polarity of them, luckily D+ & D- both can take 3.3v (used as ID for USB 1.0 or 1.1) nothing should be damaged if the polarity is incorrect.
The next issue is connecting all of the wires to the USB pins at once. I can't connect all of the wires to the 0.3mm pins, and expect them to not come loose or short. The only solution that i can think of is to etch a breakout PCB for it. Hopefully it will arrive soon, Unfortunately my first board was way too thick for the plug.
Your attempts look as elegant as mine..
I was trying with a single strand of bare wire, if it goes down fine then it can be insulated with coloured mail varnish.
That way each stand kind of ends if like the varnish covered wire used in transformers or some of those cheap $2 headphones
if you look at 'spare' plugs sold on ebay for the s3, they have the pins setout very odd, for single sided board mounting
Normally when i need to connect to small pins like these, I use Kynar wire, as it is so small and single core. However when usb host didnt work, i assumed that it was because the cable had to much noise, so i changed to normal USB cable (which also didn't work)
The socket is interesting, it looks like they surface mount it, unlike the plug that i have, which mounts on the side of the circuit.
Have you seen anybody selling the plugs cheap, and in low quantities? the only place i can find is alibaba, and i have to buy a few hundred
Excuse the rough edges, I through together a breakout board for the plug, so that i can easily access all of the pins, and secure the cable in place.
I made a quick sketch on a PCB and etched it. Not quite figured out how to print them yet.
---------- Post added 7th February 2013 at 12:36 AM ---------- Previous post was 6th February 2013 at 11:53 PM ----------
I just powered it up, and gave pins 6 & 7 a try with a memory stick connected, unfortunately there was no response from android, it also didn't see a mouse.
not sure why it doesn't detect, maybe there is too much interference, or the pins just aren't usb.
anyway, i will dig out my osciloscope, and start testing the pins to see what data they are trying to send.
I may end up having to purchase the smart dock to see what makes it tick.
i'd check for shorts.
doesnt usb otg need a pin shorted to ground? or 100 ohms etc.
subscribed to this thread and will chime in when I can offer some insight - my smart dock is due to arrive (tomorrow?)
I'll hopefully be taking it apart to test around for what wire is getting what resistance etc...
one thing I'll need to do is make a usb-micro-male end into a usb-a-male end so I can test the dock w/my lapdock (it's been the goal for me on this hdmi/otg/charging build)
Thats the exact same reason that I have been trying to make one.
I have the lapdock ready and waiting to be modified. If you need any info on the lapdock's USB and HDMI connections, have a quick look at "RaspberryPi Lapdock"
I hope that you get your smartdock soon. Im Looking forward to your input.
Sent from my GT-N7105.
flez1966 said:
i'd check for shorts.
Doesn't USB OTG need a pin shorted to ground? or 100 ohms etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB OTG uses a short between pin 4 & 5. The resistance between these pins "informs" the phone about which accessory is connected.
USB OTG mode, will only activate the USB host function, charge and HDMI are disabled in this mode.
Desk Dock mode, enables HDMI, and Charge, but not USB OTG
Smart Dock mode, enables HDMI, charge, and USB OTG.
Here is a list of (Samsung Galaxy S) resistor values I saved on my computer, I believe I found them on this forum, by "TheBeano"
(list is edited to show more relevant items to the Note 2)
Code:
RID_USB_OTG_MODE, GND USB OTG Mode
RID_RESERVED_1, 28.7K Reserved Accessory #1
RID_RESERVED_2, 34K Reserved Accessory #2
RID_RESERVED_3, 40.2K Reserved Accessory #3 (Smart Dock Mode)
RID_RESERVED_4, 49.9K Reserved Accessory #4
RID_RESERVED_5, 64.9K Reserved Accessory #5
RID_AUD_DEV_TY_2, 80.07K Audio Device Type 2
RID_PHONE_PWD_DEV, 102K Phone Powered Device
RID_TTY_CONVERTER, 121K TTY Converter
RID_UART_CABLE, 150K UART Cable
RID_CEA936A_TY_1, 200K CEA936A Type-1 Charger(1)
RID_FM_BOOT_OFF_USB, 255K Factory Mode Boot OFF-USB
RID_FM_BOOT_ON_USB, 301K Factory Mode Boot ON-USB
RID_AUD_VDO_CABLE, 1K or 365K Audio/Video Cable (HDMI/Desk mode/MHL)
RID_CEA936A_TY_2, 442K CEA936A Type-2 Charger(1)
RID_FM_BOOT_OFF_UART, 523K Factory Mode Boot OFF-UART
Car mode, 619K Car mode
RID_AUD_DEV_TY_1_REMOTE, 1000.07K Audio Device Type 1 with Remote(1)
RID_AUD_DEV_TY_1_SEND, 1002K Audio Device Type 1 / Only Send-End(2)
RID_USB_MODE, Open USB Mode, Dedicated Charger or Accessory Detach
I see there was excellent work done by others to determine pinout for Nook Color/Tablet connector.
Now it would be great if we can get somebody to do the same for Nook HDs.
Additionally I really-really need a serial port out of the new Nooks for my kernel experiments (hopefully there's a serial in the big connector, but even if not, and somebody can help me to just solder wires somewhere on the pcb to gain serial, that would be great).
Please hit your hardware techie friends for me if you have any
If there is a serious person interested in this with no Nook to play, please contact me and I'll arrange for something.
(I already researched the Nook Color way of getting serial via twl on usb connector, but the newer twl in the newer Nooks does not have this car kit mode).
verygreen said:
I see there was excellent work done by others to determine pinout for Nook Color/Tablet connector.
Now it would be great if we can get somebody to do the same for Nook HDs.
Additionally I really-really need a serial port out of the new Nooks for my kernel experiments (hopefully there's a serial in the big connector, but even if not, and somebody can help me to just solder wires somewhere on the pcb to gain serial, that would be great).
Please hit your hardware techie friends for me if you have any
If there is a serious person interested in this with no Nook to play, please contact me and I'll arrange for something.
(I already researched the Nook Color way of getting serial via twl on usb connector, but the newer twl in the newer Nooks does not have this car kit mode).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm surprised no one has done this yet. I read somewhere that b&n simply modified an iPod connector and often times I've found that means they simply changed the order of the wires in order to gain propriety and therefore extra revenue. I have Two hd+ sitting on my desk with no charge because I'm too cheap to pay 30 bucks for a cable from b&n. I also have one charging cable cut in half so maybe I'll get on this myself, not that I can really take on another project at the moment.
The standard USB cable that came with the Nook only has 4 pins inside (going to the nook), so even if you cut your cable I don't think you will find anything useful.
I'm not sure about the HDMI one, it should have some extra pins inside to enable the video output, but I think that, without finding a compatible male plug with all the pins intact, it will be quite hard to find out the purpose of each pin.
Someone brave can do it on the nook side but I haven't open mine yet
Linux can use usb serial as console.
But I don't know is it possible to switch Nook usb subsystem to usb host early at boot.
lostnick said:
Linux can use usb serial as console.
But I don't know is it possible to switch Nook usb subsystem to usb host early at boot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, and by the time usb is up it's way too late in the booting game.
The big benefit of a real serial out is you get the output from bootloader and then transitioning into kernel including very early booting.
The nook end of the cable has only six pins. Two top and bottom on one side and one top and bottom on the other side. It would be easy to see what they connect to on the USB side. I'm definitely not an electronics engineer so I'm wondering if that is what is being discussed here and how that would do us any good? I would like to diy a car charger if I can.
pinout
I opened my Nook HD+, and there is a test point near the dock connector labeled usb-id. If this TP is shorted to GND with a slave USB device attached thru a USB-A to A gender bender, the Nook acts as host as expected per USB-OTG standard. This TP maps to pin 24. Unfortunately, this isn't one of the pins to a Nook HD+ USB cable.
The Nook HD+'s motherboard is labeled EXCELLENTLY. I've gotten most of the pins I can get easily. I think the remaining pins are for HDMI (which makes sense seeing B&N makes an HDMI adapter cable...). The HDMI adapter cable will probably get the remaining pins.
Here's the pinout I've got so far:
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
1 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
2 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
3 - HDMI 5V
4 - LINEOUT-DTC
5 - USB D-
6 - USB D+
7 -
8 -
9 -
10- GND
11-
12-
13- GND
14-
15-
16- GND
17-
18-
19- GND
20-
21-
22-
23-
24- USB-ID
25- LINE-L (Audio)
26- GND
27- LINE-R (Audio)
28- GND
29- GND
30- GND
---------- Post added at 06:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 AM ----------
Also, there are two test points, SDA2-TX and SCL2-RX. These are I2C test points but I can't tell if they are the HDMI side or the system side. The HDMI chip is the TI TPD12s015, datasheet can be googled. Just a hunch that these are the HDMI side, since the datasheet says SDA_B and SCL_B are HDMI side, and they're labeled as SDA2 and SCL2.
connector type
Also, the Nook HD+ connector is NOT the same design as an Apple Dock Connector. The Apple connector has all the pins on one side of the internal fitting, while the Nook's connector has the pins on both sides.
So anyone attempting to mod their own connector should use a Nook connector.
Crud, i just bought one of those Samsung 30 pin to micro SD adapters hoping I could pull it apart and mod it, maybe I can't after all.
#edit# Is this our connector?
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/PDMI
Nope, not a PDMI...
myjess said:
Crud, i just bought one of those Samsung 30 pin to micro SD adapters hoping I could pull it apart and mod it, maybe I can't after all.
#edit# Is this our connector?
(link deleted, I'm too much of a noob to post links, I guess!)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, from what I can tell, a PDMI connector is very similar to a Apple Dock Connector, with different pinouts assigned. The Nook HD+ has a unique connector layout from what I can tell.
It's similar to this:
...1...3...5...
...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|..|...|...|
.+-v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---v---+
.|
.+---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^---^-+
.....|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|...|..|...|...|
.....2...4...6...
The Apple and Samsung have all pins on one side only, at double the density.
octachoron said:
Here's the pinout I've got so far:
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks!
Also, there are two test points, SDA2-TX and SCL2-RX. These are I2C test points but I can't tell if they are the HDMI side or the system side. The HDMI chip is the TI TPD12s015, datasheet can be googled. Just a hunch that these are the HDMI side, since the datasheet says SDA_B and SCL_B are HDMI side, and they're labeled as SDA2 and SCL2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the TX one is the serial out, I got Adam Outler here at ABBQ to solder into it and I got the console out. Sadly it's not mapped anywhere in the connector, but at least I got my serial out now. We are less sure about the RX one, but I'll try it out once I get back home on Sunday.
Big thanks to Adam too!
TX & RX
verygreen said:
ThankDCCs!
the TX one is the serial out, I got Adam Outler here at ABBQ to solder into it and I got the console out. Sadly it's not mapped anywhere in the connector, but at least I got my serial out now. We are less sure about the RX one, but I'll try it out once I get back home on Sunday.
Big thanks to Adam too!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is just a guess, but would not TX = transmit & RX = Recieve ?
Jimcisme said:
This is just a guess, but would not TX = transmit & RX = Recieve ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes.
So TX definitely transmits the console output, we see it.
But tryign to input stuff onto RX pin does not result in anything visible, so that's why we are less sure if that's the input into the serial console.
But even if not, the console output is the more important one anyway for my kernel debugging plans.
Host Mode?
Does this imply that using the app to change USB to host mode will not work? I have seen several articles on using app with gender changer to get external keyboard or storage to HD+
I opened my Nook HD+, too. And I took some photos.
i40.tinypic.com/6yljxx.jpg
i40.tinypic.com/2yyrspi.jpg
Sorry, new user prevented from posting outside links in their messages.
Now I wonder if 5 test points of USB VBUS (+5VDC)、USB D-、USB D+、GND and USB-ID are connected to a MicroUSB Female adapter (5 pin) like most of Android smartphones and pads, will a MHL MicroUSB to HDMI cable work with the Nook HD+ ?
Has anyone ever opened up the HDMI adapter?
I would like to see whats inside before I rip mine open.
emottau said:
I'm surprised no one has done this yet. I read somewhere that b&n simply modified an iPod connector and often times I've found that means they simply changed the order of the wires in order to gain propriety and therefore extra revenue. I have Two hd+ sitting on my desk with no charge because I'm too cheap to pay 30 bucks for a cable from b&n. I also have one charging cable cut in half so maybe I'll get on this myself, not that I can really take on another project at the moment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
octachoron said:
I opened my Nook HD+, and there is a test point near the dock connector labeled usb-id. If this TP is shorted to GND with a slave USB device attached thru a USB-A to A gender bender, the Nook acts as host as expected per USB-OTG standard. This TP maps to pin 24. Unfortunately, this isn't one of the pins to a Nook HD+ USB cable.
The Nook HD+'s motherboard is labeled EXCELLENTLY. I've gotten most of the pins I can get easily. I think the remaining pins are for HDMI (which makes sense seeing B&N makes an HDMI adapter cable...). The HDMI adapter cable will probably get the remaining pins.
Here's the pinout I've got so far:
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
1 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
2 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
3 - HDMI 5V
4 - LINEOUT-DTC
5 - USB D-
6 - USB D+
7 -
8 -
9 -
10- GND
11-
12-
13- GND
14-
15-
16- GND
17-
18-
19- GND
20-
21-
22-
23-
24- USB-ID
25- LINE-L (Audio)
26- GND
27- LINE-R (Audio)
28- GND
29- GND
30- GND
---------- Post added at 06:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:04 AM ----------
Also, there are two test points, SDA2-TX and SCL2-RX. These are I2C test points but I can't tell if they are the HDMI side or the system side. The HDMI chip is the TI TPD12s015, datasheet can be googled. Just a hunch that these are the HDMI side, since the datasheet says SDA_B and SCL_B are HDMI side, and they're labeled as SDA2 and SCL2.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is an updated pinout + PCB fragment with connector
Pin - Signal
--------------------------------------
1 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
2 - USB VBUS (+5VDC)
3 - HDMI 5V
4 - LINEOUT-DTC
5 - USB D-
6 - USB D+
7 - GND
8 - GND
9 - HDMI CLK-
10- GND
11- HDMI CLK+
12- HDMI D0-
13- GND
14- HDMI D0+
15- HDMI D1-
16- GND
17- HDMI D1+
18- HDMI D2-
19- GND
20- HDMI D2+
21- GND
22- SDA2-TX(SCL2-RX?) - To be checked. Tx/Rx contact order according to HDMI connector pinout
23- SCL2-RX(SDA2-TX?)
24- USB-ID
25- LINE-L (Audio)
26- AGND
27- LINE-R (Audio)
28- AGND
29- GND
30- GND
As you can see, there is full HDMI signals set, so adaptor is just pass-through connection, no external chip needed in adaptor.
Regarding RX, it goes through TI TPD12s015. The PCB pad sits on chip output (system side), which is open-drain and can suppress this signal when HDMI 5V is not activated (reflecting connector's side not powered from HDMI 5V pullup). To activate it TPD12s015 input LS_OE and CT_CP_HPD must be set high (OMAP GPIOs) - VDAC-HDMI pad near processor?
But maybe CONS_2700_UART1 connector near processor will be more suitable for console?
the becalab
onlycash said:
Has anyone ever opened up the HDMI adapter?
I would like to see whats inside before I rip mine open.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, that.
Have you done any ripping? I don't really have a use for the HDMI cable, but would buy and rip if I could get my mitts on the line level outputs. Can't imagine they'd plumb those, but I can dream.
Here is photos of my hdmi adapter(remove spaces from urls):
Code:
dropbox .com/s/f0tymbsva3cwwcb/hdmi1.JPG
dropbox .com/s/lpvubhb8at7lc8q/hdmi2.JPG
dropbox .com/s/pdw6ibn2zema04n/hdmi3.JPG
It is not so simple as i thought.
This is all very interesting, and some nice pics. I wonder, has anyone attempted (or even considered) to replace the annoying proprietary connector by soldering a replacement micro-USB onto the PCB? Is it even viable?
I can't understand why they would be so daft as to introduce a non-standard connection. Apple can just about get away with it because, well, they're Apple.
So I'm doing a project today with the Raspberry Pi 2 Model B and I realized that some (not all) of the GPIO pins output 3.3V at startup (I mean the data pins, not the power output pins). I cannot have it output 3.3V since I'm using the RPI to control a quadcopter and that would cause a mess if the motors ran at full speed at bootup. So do you guys know which pins are 0V (off) at startup and I can control using WiringPi?