This idea may seem silly, but no less silly than trying to remove foam, add foam, or make floam.
I found this trick while trying to figure out why no adjustment to the Durovis Dive (moveable lenses) seemed as clear as I expected. The solution was to move where the headset sat on my face, despite it not feeling like that was the "intended placement"
Whether or not you use the nose piece is up to you. I honestly never took the time to compare the two foam blobs, so whichever is the default is the one I use. Most of the trick involves using the tension of the top headband, so adjust the one that wraps around your head to wherever it is tight, but still comfortable.
The next part is where it varies by user. You will want to put the headset on and adjust the focus wheel to get as clear as possible for you. After you are comfortable with the view and about to come back here and say WTF, hold the headset by both sides and move it slightly higher on your face. If the view gets clearer, adjust the top band to keep it locked in place. If there is no change, try moving it lower on your face, and again adjust as needed.
While this may not fit into a scientific explanation of pixel depth, it is a rather simple concept. By moving the headset up or down, you actually slightly alter the angle in relation to your eyes. Most games and apps are intended for a view "level to the eye" and when the headset is too low, your nose can cause it to angle slightly downward. When it is too high, the upward tilt can cause your eyes to strain a bit more.
Hopefully that can help some to solve their issue with clarity before running off to cut up or pack in any additional parts.
Depends upon what you mean by clarity? If you mean focus then sure, wearing the headset in different positions may improve focus depending on what works best for your eyes - I personally like to wear my GVR lower on my face for this very reason. However I don't believe this will reduce the appearance of pixels or make them smaller unless of course adjusting the headset in this manner moves the screen further from your face.
Have never personally had focus issues with the GVR other than 360 videos, but I believe that to be a software and not a hardware issue.
**Interesting idea another member posted was to use an anti-glare screen protector. This would serve to diffuse the edges of pixels and thus may smooth them out. No idea what negative effects this would have on focus as I don't own this type of screen protector. Sounds plausible though.
Closed due to excessive trolling.
Related
is there or can anyone create a small applet that can use the kaiser's touchscreen as a scale to measure weight, such as 0.3grams
...what's that white stuff on your phone?...kidding. kewl idea
Cool idea! So, is there anyone that can elaborate on the technical details of how our touchscreens function so we can figure out if the idea is feasible?
Here are some links, im really liking this idea. I even believe it could work. I doubt it would work for measurments over 45g
HERE
HERE
HERE
HERE
The reason I can see this working is the screen depends on the screen being pressure sensitive.
well, we are able to change the sensitivity of our touch screens, can't we incorporate that into a simple application
micgrob said:
is there or can anyone create a small applet that can use the kaiser's touchscreen as a scale to measure weight, such as 0.3grams
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, you guys are funny... i hope it takes gram and dime
can anyone do anything with this lol?
I want a pocket scale! That would be sooo handy! ; )
HAHAHAHAHA Oh, the possibilities!
lmao its hilarious because me and a few of my friends have been talking about that for ages, and assumed it not possible. If it is, id pay. I got like $15 goin to whoever makes that program >D
It isn't. Touchscreens of the kind you find on the kaiser are made of 2 layers separated by little "rubber spacers" (the dots you can see when looking at the screen when it's off in strong light). The pressure needs to be great enough to bend the upper layer and have it touch the other one. But as it's the pressure that matters, if you put a weight that is the size of the screen, even if it's 100-200gr the screen won't even feel a press.
kilrah said:
It isn't. Touchscreens of the kind you find on the kaiser are made of 2 layers separated by little "rubber spacers" (the dots you can see when looking at the screen when it's off in strong light). The pressure needs to be great enough to bend the upper layer and have it touch the other one. But as it's the pressure that matters, if you put a weight that is the size of the screen, even if it's 100-200gr the screen won't even feel a press.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
damn it! i thought about this before!
kilrah said:
It isn't. Touchscreens of the kind you find on the kaiser are made of 2 layers separated by little "rubber spacers" (the dots you can see when looking at the screen when it's off in strong light). The pressure needs to be great enough to bend the upper layer and have it touch the other one. But as it's the pressure that matters, if you put a weight that is the size of the screen, even if it's 100-200gr the screen won't even feel a press.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was thinking the same thing. However, it still seems like it could be done with a standardized container, such as a bottle cap. That way you have the same area always touching the screen, and just the force changes (pressure = force / area, and force is weight). Stick a standardized 1 gram weight in the cap, put it on the screen, run the calibration part of the program, then always use that cap to hold whatever you're weighing.
I still don't know if the screen technology would let this work, but I think there's a chance. Perhaps the program could sweep the screen sensitivity from low to high, looking for when a "screen tap" is sensed, if simply looking at the touchscreen output isn't enough to determing weight...
I got 10 on it.
maxh said:
I was thinking the same thing. However, it still seems like it could be done with a standardized container, such as a bottle cap. That way you have the same area always touching the screen, and just the force changes (pressure = force / area, and force is weight).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought of that too, but seeing the pitch of the dots I guess the contact surface would have to be relatively small (like max 3x3mm), which would lead to the holder tipping over all the time... Not to mention the response on the screen is most likely less than linear, so one would have to always use the same "spot" on the screen to put the container on... At this point my little 500gr/0.1gr resolution pocket scale seems more convenient
oh well, thnx
I don't know if its just me, but I think I'll look kinda weird at the spuermarket putting bananas on my phone
Dude you have to be the ONLY person who thought, "scale? Bananas!"
I apologize if an identical post exist, however after a little research, I personally didn't find anything. With that out of the way, I thought I'd make a post so that the N7 could add their input as to some of the common issues (& the not so noticeable) that they may have experienced. After being ripped off by purchasing a device off of CL, I got home only to realize that I had overlooked something fairly small but it turned out to eventually render the device useless.
I'm currently in the market for a used N7, So, with an effort of helping people to save money by not purchasing electronic time bombs, feel free to pass along any information that you deem helpful for the unsuspecting buyer. Thanks in advanced.
First off, don't buy them in a J-Ville pawnshop.
Look for a raised screen on the left side, top half. Test for "squish" and "creaks", also most commonly found in that same area.
Take a look at the back cover, see if there are any major gaps between the cover and the silver bezel trim. Also look at the bezel trim...is it wavy/dented/scratched? May be an indicator of a device having a hard life.
All of the above are considered somewhat cosmetic, but I know from personal experience that a lifting screen and creaks can drive you crazy, even if the device is perfectly functional otherwise.
Make sure the USB connector is functional, they're somewhat fragile.
Calibrate your MK1 Eyeball and see if the display looks overly washed out, and try the whole range of brightness settings. This one is highly subjective and there seems to be a lot of variation on panel quality with the N7. But rule of thumb is, if you're not happy with the display when you first see it, you're not going to be any happier once you own it.
And my #1 suggestion? For only $200/$250, don't buy used. Buy new at a major retailer that has plenty of stock and no restocking fee, so you can be sure to get a unit you're happy with. It's made by Asus.
Look for screen lift on the left side.
Look for sponginess on the left side (or anywhere).
Look for "oil slick" / ripples down either edge when you press near the bezel.
Look for any signs the back has been lifted (and possibly a clip snapped) and a quick tighten of previous loose screws has been done.
Look for dead pixels
Look for screen bleed (whiter patches in some areas around the edges).
Listen for a blown or staticy sounding speaker.
Second hand, you could also check the serial number to see how old it is and check that the RAM you're being told is in there is there. Also check its got stock rom and hasn't been rooted if that bothers you. Usual obvious things such as scratches on the screen (I read last night the screen can get scratched quite easily) or any damage to the case. Ask why the person is selling.
Can think of anything else. Maybe others will.
To all people who have this problem! I recently got the Nexus 7 3G and the back was creaking so badly you could easily hear it across a large room. The noise seemed to come from the "nexus" logo near the top of the device.
I found the culprit an double checked with an older 16GB model. They changed the design of golden contact springs for the wireless radios from a simple C shape design to some complicated folding Z shaped spring design. It is those springs that upon being depressed rub metal on metal and make this horrible creaking noise. I don't know how many 3G's are affected but mine definitely was.
My solution was to open it up, which is easy enough to do with a guitar pick or something similar, just check YouTube, and to bend the springs until they stopped making noises under load.
While I was in there I also added double sided tape wherever necessary to stop the plastic from creaking (because they left out a lot of the foam they put in the older models, maybe to fix the screen lift issue??) and I re-wrapped the battery protection circuit because the circuit board was rubbing on the battery and making noises as well. (also, my battery was strangely wedged sideways in it's compartment)
All in all it's rock solid now, no creaks, nothing. And it feels like a really quality device now. Suffice to say that I should never have had to do this in the first place in order to own a device that is in satisfactory condition and one is not embarrassed to pass along in a group of friends because of the noises it makes
fabian.ecker said:
To all people who have this problem! I recently got the Nexus 7 3G and the back was creaking so badly you could easily hear it across a large room. The noise seemed to come from the "nexus" logo near the top of the device.
I found the culprit an double checked with an older 16GB model. They changed the design of golden contact springs for the wireless radios from a simple C shape design to some complicated folding Z shaped spring design. It is those springs that upon being depressed rub metal on metal and make this horrible creaking noise. I don't know how many 3G's are affected but mine definitely was.
My solution was to open it up, which is easy enough to do with a guitar pick or something similar, just check YouTube, and to bend the springs until they stopped making noises under load.
While I was in there I also added double sided tape wherever necessary to stop the plastic from creaking (because they left out a lot of the foam they put in the older models, maybe to fix the screen lift issue??) and I re-wrapped the battery protection circuit because the circuit board was rubbing on the battery and making noises as well. (also, my battery was strangely wedged sideways in it's compartment)
All in all it's rock solid now, no creaks, nothing. And it feels like a really quality device now. Suffice to say that I should never have had to do this in the first place in order to own a device that is in satisfactory condition and one is not embarrassed to pass along in a group of friends because of the noises it makes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Would u mind taking a picture of the inside where u added tape to stop the backplate from creaking and upload it. I've tried many things to fix it to no avail.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
i will as soon as i find some time. there is another thread here on xda. it's for the wifi model but i adapted the suggestions for my nexus 7. also, what i did for mine might not work for yours. my suggestion is, figure out where the noise is coming from, add some double sided tape or foam close it partially and try it. took me about 2 days of trial and error to achieve an acceptable state
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1848013
here is the link
fabian.ecker said:
i will as soon as i find some time. there is another thread here on xda. it's for the wifi model but i adapted the suggestions for my nexus 7. also, what i did for mine might not work for yours. my suggestion is, figure out where the noise is coming from, add some double sided tape or foam close it partially and try it. took me about 2 days of trial and error to achieve an acceptable state
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks very much. My only creak is on the right side where the battery is and close to the bezel. Did u happen to have one there as well? Wish me luck lol off to void my warranty
Sent from my [insert phone model here]
fabian.ecker said:
To all people who have this problem! I recently got the Nexus 7 3G and the back was creaking so badly you could easily hear it across a large room. The noise seemed to come from the "nexus" logo near the top of the device.
I found the culprit an double checked with an older 16GB model. They changed the design of golden contact springs for the wireless radios from a simple C shape design to some complicated folding Z shaped spring design. It is those springs that upon being depressed rub metal on metal and make this horrible creaking noise. I don't know how many 3G's are affected but mine definitely was.
My solution was to open it up, which is easy enough to do with a guitar pick or something similar, just check YouTube, and to bend the springs until they stopped making noises under load.
While I was in there I also added double sided tape wherever necessary to stop the plastic from creaking (because they left out a lot of the foam they put in the older models, maybe to fix the screen lift issue??) and I re-wrapped the battery protection circuit because the circuit board was rubbing on the battery and making noises as well. (also, my battery was strangely wedged sideways in it's compartment)
All in all it's rock solid now, no creaks, nothing. And it feels like a really quality device now. Suffice to say that I should never have had to do this in the first place in order to own a device that is in satisfactory condition and one is not embarrassed to pass along in a group of friends because of the noises it makes
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bookmarking so I recognize your nick on an upcoming "My wifi doesn't work!" thread.
Don't worry about your warranty! there is a "seal" sticker INSIDE the case but popping the back off will most certainly not void your warranty. it's more like the battery cover on a galaxy s3 or a nexus s than anything else!
fyi i had it on the right, left, and top of the device
Just stumbled upon this because the GVR was making my face sore after wearing it a while. I had already replaced the stock foam pad with the alternate one which has the nose bridge. For more padding I simply took the original "noseless" pad and put it on first. I then placed the full pad on top of it, attaching the nose section to the velcro so it stays in place - in other words, double foam.
WOW.
What I didn't expect was the MAJOR REDUCTION IN SCREEN DOOR EFFECT which has been achieved simply by moving the GVR another 1/4 inch from my face. I was looking at the Mars 360 photos and I thought, "Damn these look clear." Then I looked at some others and noticed the pixels all seemed about half the size they were previously. To really test it I loaded up The Hobbit in Oculus Cinema. WOW! SO much better. Again, pixels half the size. It makes sense. Your eyes are twice as far from the lenses so pixels half as big. Incredible.
The best analogy is that instead of feeling you are looking through a screen door, it looks like the image is projected on canvas. Much much more pleasant.
So apparently the biggest cause for the screen door effect on the GVR is it's just too damned close to your eyes. I also found focusing much easier and eye strain reduced - and oh yeah, face hurt less. I find the screen looks better with this mod if I wear the GVR a bit lower on my face as well.
Give it a try. Watch the Hobbit without the "double-stuff" then watch it with - you'll see the difference.
P.S., Some have commented that this will reduce your FOV and cause focus issues at the edges. Please remember that you are only moving 1/4 in from the lenses. IMHO there is no perceptible FOV loss and no additional focus problems at the edges. The only thing which changes is the image is so much better.
Anyone try this? Any improvement? For me it's night and day.
When you get the chance, can you post a pic of what the modified padding looks like?
Buddy Revell said:
When you get the chance, can you post a pic of what the modified padding looks like?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just follow my instructions. Put the noseless pad on the bottom and the nose pad on the top. Simple.
But if you do that you lose so much of the picture...
ickna11 said:
But if you do that you lose so much of the picture...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What? How? You don't lose any picture at all. You simply stack the padding on top of each other. It just causes the lenses to be 1/4 inch further from your eyes so pixels look smaller. How are you losing picture?
Was just looking at 360 pics again like this. It's a whole new device. Instead of looking big and distinct pixels look like grains of sand.
mitchellvii said:
What? How? You don't lose any picture at all. You simply stack the padding on top of each other. It just causes the lenses to be 1/4 inch further from your eyes so pixels look smaller. How are you losing picture?
Was just looking at 360 pics again like this. It's a whole new device. Instead of looking big and distinct pixels look like grains of sand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You lose fov being further away, more of a binocular effect.
ickna11 said:
You lose fov being further away, more of a binocular effect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not even remotely correct. No perceived loss of FOV at all. Binocular effect actually seems lessened as the image quality is so much improved. Remember, we are talking 1/4 inch here.
mitchellvii said:
Not even remotely correct. No perceived loss of FOV at all. Binocular effect actually seems lessened as the image quality is so much improved. Remember, we are talking 1/4 inch here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You lose fov being further away, this is a fact.
You also get a more distorted picture around the edges of the lens.
Not saying it doesn't make it more clear because you are further away, just pointing out what you lose when you do this.
ickna11 said:
You lose fov being further away, this is a fact.
You also get a more distorted picture around the edges of the lens.
Not saying it doesn't make it more clear because you are further away, just pointing out what you lose when you do this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I'm sorry but you are wrong. Have you actually tried it or is this just your theory?
By moving back only 1/4 inch you lose maybe 1-2% of your field of view and there is no additional distortion around the edges but the image is dramatically better - night and day. So which would you rather have, tiny pixels and 98% of the FOV or huge pixels and 100% FOV? Miniscule sacrifice, huge gain.
mitchellvii said:
Just stumbled upon this because the GVR was making my face sore after wearing it a while. I had already replaced the stock foam pad with the alternate one which has the nose bridge. For more padding I simply took the original "noseless" pad and put it on first. I then placed the full pad on top of it, attaching the nose section to the velcro so it stays in place - in other words, double foam.
WOW.
What I didn't expect was the MAJOR REDUCTION IN SCREEN DOOR EFFECT which has been achieved simply by moving the GVR another 1/4 inch from my face. I was looking at the Mars 360 photos and I thought, "Damn these look clear." Then I looked at some others and noticed the pixels all seemed about half the size they were previously. To really test it I loaded up The Hobbit in Oculus Cinema. WOW! SO much better. Again, pixels half the size. It makes sense. Your eyes are twice as far from the lenses so pixels half as big. Incredible.
The best analogy is that instead of feeling you are looking through a screen door, it looks like the image is projected on canvas. Much much more pleasant.
So apparently the biggest cause for the screen door effect on the GVR is it's just too damned close to your eyes. I also found focusing much easier and eye strain reduced - and oh yeah, face hurt less. I find the screen looks better with this mod if I wear the GVR a bit lower on my face as well.
Give it a try. Watch the Hobbit without the "double-stuff" then watch it with - you'll see the difference.
P.S., Some have commented that this will reduce your FOV and cause focus issues at the edges. Please remember that you are only moving 1/4 in from the lenses. IMHO there is no perceptible FOV loss and no additional focus problems at the edges. The only thing which changes is the image is so much better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Surely gone to try this, thanks a lot!
Aedriaen
Aedriaen said:
Surely gone to try this, thanks a lot!
Aedriaen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey its worth a try since there is nothing permanent about the mod. Everyone's eyes work differently with the GVR but for me its made all the difference.
Aedriaen said:
Surely gone to try this, thanks a lot!
Aedriaen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As a quick test tried pressing GVR harder against my face to see if pixels size increased and they did, dramatically so. Also noticed tiny increase in FOV, hardly worth it to endure the bigger pixels.
mitchellvii said:
As a quick test tried pressing GVR harder against my face to see if pixels size increased and they did, dramatically so. Also noticed tiny increase in FOV, hardly worth it to endure the bigger pixels.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a clarification: the pixels are not changing size. You are looking through a concave lens. The further back you move, the less "magnified" the view becomes. It simply looks clearer because you are getting closer to the original resolution of the image by "zooming" less. If you really feel that they were a whole foam buffer off in how close the lenses should be for clear viewing, you should probably be telling Oculus. That is the sort of stuff they want to know when they release an "innovator" edition.
twistedumbrella said:
Just a clarification: the pixels are not changing size. You are looking through a concave lens. The further back you move, the less "magnified" the view becomes. It simply looks clearer because you are getting closer to the original resolution of the image by "zooming" less. If you really feel that they were a whole foam buffer off in how close the lenses should be for clear viewing, you should probably be telling Oculus. That is the sort of stuff they want to know when they release an "innovator" edition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is why the density solution will not work in this case. It does not apply.
twisted, if you own the GVR just for grins try my double-stuff solution and watch some movies. You'll see the difference.
mitchellvii said:
This is why the density solution will not work in this case. It does not apply.
twisted, if you own the GVR just for grins try my double-stuff solution and watch some movies. You'll see the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know it isn't what you want to hear, but if enough people didn't find the lens placement "optimal" the way they are, the headset would have been designed with deeper lenses. There are others that have the same issue, but they are the exception. I, on the other hand, do not suffer from this "severe" issue. It has nothing to do with density. I think it's best left between you and your optometrist. Good luck.
The closer the better for me. The extra pad makes it too blurry for me. I think the gear vr pad around the nose was removed from first goam pad because it brings your face even closer.
I went ahead and tried both and couldn't find a good focal point for my eyes. Sadly it made it far worse for me. Awesome it works for you tho and was with a try for me. I wear contacts to see, then readers to see anything closer than 3 feet. Ha
Compusmurf said:
I went ahead and tried both and couldn't find a good focal point for my eyes. Sadly it made it far worse for me. Awesome it works for you tho and was with a try for me. I wear contacts to see, then readers to see anything closer than 3 feet. Ha
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doubt it makes any noticeable difference (tried it myself and the experience/immersion was just way worse than normally and the pixels were just as visible). This did though give me an idea - to try the Gear VR without any padding at all in order to get it as close to your face as possible. Liked it a lot more and is worth a try if the pads that came with the device don't make for a comfortable fit for you (also a lot easier to get decent focus!). Btw. has anyone figured out a way to switch seats in the cinema without the controller? Setting up the sixaxis every time I want to watch a movie is a bit of a chore (want the screen to be as big as possible, and the front seat is the only one that offers anything like that). Don't really get why void cinema doesn't allow you to move closer and farther away from the "screen"(want it to fill my entire FOV).
mitchellvii said:
just for grins try my double-stuff solution and watch some movies. You'll see the difference.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, while I was in the Gear VR tonight, I made a point of trying to experience it through your eyes to understand what you are going at better. You know what? I did start to see it through your eyes and it only confirmed what I was saying for why you are not experiencing it like others are (as well as others that have posted with similar reactions, such as as the Official Oculus Forum where a member was very similarly disappointed for the same reasons.) You might have 20/20 vision, but you also might consider you have focus issues.
I had to start rejecting the focal point of the image and start staring at the pixels to see what you were seeing. I also kept moving the face plate away from my eyes and back to look for the pixel size change. After doing this for a few minutes where I ignored the image, my eyes began to obsess over the pixels, noting the RBG field, and was less able to focus on the actual image. Quite frankly, this is a like a person watching an old CRT TV while focusing on the pixels rather than the program overlaid on the screen. You could see those old pixels at a normal viewing distance from within a living room much as you perceive the Gear VR pixels. At any rate, because of the exercise it became distracting when I was trying to go back to focusing on the actual image while I was looking at 360 Photos. Just moving my head around I'd lose focus on the image and follow the pixels. Taking a break to reset will get me back to enjoying it.
This is why you are getting more resistance than agreement. You are focused on the wrong point and that is not what the majority does., but you aren't alone.
I read somewhere the FOV is around 101 degrees. I must say it's a very small FOV compared to my BoboVR Z4 which has a much wider FOV. I tested both headsets with the same phone and same app and I could see more wider view on the Z4. I know BoboVR claim 120 FOV on their headset but if the Gear VR truly is 101 degrees then the BoboVR must be around 110 degrees.
The length of the the wide opening on the outside of the lenses is shorter than that of the BoboVR. So is there anyway to improve the Gear VR FOV? I noticed the inside walls on the outside of the lenses are straight. Perhaps we can cut away some of the plastic to make it more rounded and wider. Has anyone done this?
According too this site, they measured the FOV at just under 90 degrees which is exactly what it feels like. Samsung are claiming 101 degrees. Why do all manufacturers exaggerate their FOV measurements? Really sucks.
http://www.sitesinvr.com/viewer/gearvr2016/index.html
You can GREATLY improve FOV by replacing the default face pad with something much thinner ( I used some bicycle helmet padding ). I know it doesn't seem like it would make that much of a difference--but it does. It's also easy to do because the Gear has a thin line of velcro built in so it is easy to remove the original padding and try various replacements.
If you have a phone with a bigger screen you can also use a dremel to cut away some of the plastic shield covering up the screen. I have a 5.7 inch screen and the Gear is designed for much smaller screens, so I lose a lot of pixels if I don't mod the headset myself.
Haints said:
You can GREATLY improve FOV by replacing the default face pad with something much thinner ( I used some bicycle helmet padding ). I know it doesn't seem like it would make that much of a difference--but it does. It's also easy to do because the Gear has a thin line of velcro built in so it is easy to remove the original padding and try various replacements.
If you have a phone with a bigger screen you can also use a dremel to cut away some of the plastic shield covering up the screen. I have a 5.7 inch screen and the Gear is designed for much smaller screens, so I lose a lot of pixels if I don't mod the headset myself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Currently I am placing the padding under heavy weight to see if it will flatten it somewhat.
Also I did think about cutting some of the sides away as you suggest, but upon further analysis I don't think it will help much.
tboy2000 said:
Currently I am placing the padding under heavy weight to see if it will flatten it somewhat.
Also I did think about cutting some of the sides away as you suggest, but upon further analysis I don't think it will help much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The default padding has a pretty firm backing. I think you'd have better results replacing it with something that didn't.
As for cutting away the sides, I also did extensive testing. With a 5.7 inch phone, it definitely helps. Smaller phones perhaps not.
Haints said:
The default padding has a pretty firm backing. I think you'd have better results replacing it with something that didn't.
As for cutting away the sides, I also did extensive testing. With a 5.7 inch phone, it definitely helps. Smaller phones perhaps not.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have a photo of your mod please?