So... like most of you, i have at least one problem with my teclast x98 air tablet, version C9J8, running only windows (8.1 pro/10 preview).
At this time i've constantly encountered the following problems:
- not turning on after being shut down. Pressing the power button doesn't do nothing. Sometimes it does this while charging, at the end of the charge, othertimes it... simply won't power on.
- huge battery drain in stand by. I've flashed ALL (yes... all) dual boot/single boot air/air 2 BIOS files i could get, in all versions. If it's got a .bin extension... yes, i've flashed that too. No change AT ALL!
- huge batterty drain... when powered off !?!?! Yes, that's the next level of awsomeness. You know your tablet is special when it sometimes discharges faster when turned off compared with it turned on. (@XDA, guys .. can you please add some facepalm smiley/emoji.. i wanted to use it about 30 times since i got this tablet)
- sudden shutdowns. Like when you use your tablet it simply dies in your hands with no apparent reason.
- battery meter stuck at 7% and only 1 cell reported. NOT fixed by the methods already known (flashing BIOS and letting it discharge then recharge with tablet turned off).
So.. i'm pissed off. I've disassembled the damn thing in search for some answers. I'll by posting some photos with the guts of this thing (c9j8 version).
First of all, I wanted to check the power draw directly from the battery, so i've desoldered the positive wire from the battery and inserted an amps meter to check the current flow.
For example, the stock charger will supply around 1.5-1.9 amps to the battery when charging (tablet off). For comparison a small 5V 1A, samsung charger supplied 1.1 amps in the same setup. Some other interesting facts, when on and booted to windows - the tablet draws about 1.1-2.2 amps (mostly depending on screen brigtness and cpu load). That's a total of 4-11 watts. If you lower the brigtness from full to low (bottom third of the slider) you effectively half the power consumption. As usual the display consumes more then 50% of the total power being drawn. Those who complain about huge power drain on standby will be surprised to know that the tablet draws 0.3-0.8 amps (it fluctuates) in standby. That’s HUGE. It should be 0.03-0.05 amps at MAXIMUM. 0.3 amps multiplied to a 3.8volts cell is 1.14Watts draw per hour at minimum in my case.
Leaving that aside, let's return to the above problems. The battery is connected to the motherboard by using a 3 wire connection (positive, ground and data bus/i2c or similar). The motherboard itself doesn't feature ANY protection/power management chip aside from a single ROHM controller located under a metal shield. Even if some data is passed between the battery and motherboard, you can simply decouple the battery and power the tablet with regular 18650 lithium cells or 3 AA alkaline batteries in series. The tablet is stupid enough not to notice any difference.
Let's go more deep in the start-up sequence.
When you press the power button, a half a second 500mA ramping to 800mA load is registered. The power management chip measures the voltage drop under that load and if it deems it to be "acceptable" it passes power to the rest of the motherboard. BIOS/firmware takes over from there but does a measurement of its own. If it results in an "ok" the boot sequence can the follow. If not, the BIOS would then power off the tablet. Here lies the first problem. The power management chip and BIOS thresholds for a "low voltage" battery are different. Very different. The chip itself considers the battery voltage to be ok if it's above about 3.45-3.5 volts and not dropping lower then 3.3v under a 500-800mA load. The BIOS/firmware (or whatever software part does this) won't accept a measurement below 3.65v. volts. So, when you pass the BIOS stage and boot to windows, the data you get when checking your battery comes from the power management chip. If you fully discharge the battery in windows (down to 2-3% or similar) and you are able to shutdown the tablet by yourself (it doesn’t cut power by itself) you could find that it cannot power back again because even if the power management ic gives the go ahead, the bios/firmware side refuses to go any further. The battery must be charged for some time before the bios will allow for booting.
The problem is that both power management IC and BIOS readings should be taken in same way and be of similar value. They are not. It’s not that Teclast couldn’t do this, but for whatever reason they decided to write the BIOS in that way. The 7% problem could originate in the fact that a what the BIOS considers a dead battery (0%) is actually charged to a degree and is different from 0% measured at the power management chip level. Overall the power readings are inconsistent in both measurement and reporting. It doesn’t seem to be a hardware problem.
Another problem is how „dumb” is the battery management hardware. In any modern portable computer (laptops, tablets, even phones – excluding some chinese products) you cannot simply disconect the data bus from the battery and simply feed some random 3-4 volts to power the thing. It’s like you would remove the battery from your laptop, check the label on it for the voltage rating and stick a bunch of wires on the contacts (2 of them) and expect the thing to boot. It won’t. Firstly because IT’S NOT SAFE. The battery or motherboard can’t report one to another if a fault is occuring and can’t accurately measure voltage/current consumption.
Yet another problem is that the same power circuitry does not compensate for large voltage/current swings. A simple experiment for you folks to try. Get a aa battery (a battery in general) measure it’s voltage as it’s sitting still then connect a small lightbulb/motor/led/whatever load runs on that battery and measure the voltage WHILE the battery suplies current to the load. You will find a voltage drop at the battery level. It’s normal, is how these things run. A complex electronic device must take that into account in it’s design. At idle/browsing web/viewing picture, the tablet draws about 1.1 amps from a battery that’s registering 3.87volts (at that test’s time in my case). Running a benchmark/video game produced a series of spikes to 2 – 2.1 amps and an aditional voltage drop to around 3.61 volts. Remember that some power rails require exact voltages (cpu core, main bus, 5volt usb bus etc). The power circuitry must provide those exact voltages regarding the input voltage swing. Noup... and that’s the main problem untill now. THEY DONT! I was shocked to see how the chinese engineers are pushing it right on the edge. If you desolder one battery pin and insert an ampere meter in series, that’s enough to induce the little voltage drop needed for the tablet to freeze under load or shut down alltogether. The ampere meter leads were rated to withstand 10 amps under load – and they do, yet the simple fact you inserted a piece of wire along the track is enough to disturb an already delicate balance. The thing is only barely capable of whitstanding it’s own battery voltage swing. In my opinion you can try to reduce the load by disabling turbo modes on cpu/gpu or whatever (and teclast tried with some bios/models of the x98 air) but you cannot fix this by firmware. It’s just bad hardware design. They cut costs on the power management side.
Those are my finds untill now. I’m thinking of adding some capacitance over the power rails to take the load over from the batteries when a large amount of current is drawn (spikes that occur under load). Other then that, there is not much to do about this.
Even so, i don’t know why the tablet still draws power while turned off. I wasn’t able to make it do that while measuring. Aditionally i don’t know why only one cell is reported in windows. More tests are required.
This is still an ongoing "project". Some of my conclusion could be wrong at this stage. Like i've said it's still a work in progress. It would be quite a thing if anyone with some knoledge about the BIOS code (or how it runs on this tablet) could step in and direct me to the right hardware to examine.
here are some photos with the guts of this tablet
As you can see, the C9J8 at least has some metal shield above the cpu area and some crappy thermal compound over it. Some older models lacked the metal shield.
Next we have the battery wires and their link to the motherboard. As you can see, left to the 3 wires there are 4 brown devices, mounted in parallel. Those are capacitors. Like i've said above I'm thinking of adding some aditional capacitance to further help the motherboard compensate for the voltage drops registered on high load scenarios. The chinese guys thought of that, added the 4 caps but deemed them enough. Noup, that's just barely doing it. In fact the whole design is made to a price point, that's to be expected.
For easier probing, I've disconnected the red positive wire, and added a piece of wire of my own, one end to the battery red wire the other to it's coresponding pad on the motherboard. At the end of my wire, i'm probing in series with an ampere meter.
And for the sake of it, here's a photo with the registered power consumption with the tablet on. 1.11 amps x 3.8 volts = 4.21W total power being drawn. Actually that's pretty good. I remember the days i was probing a htc hd2 for some cpu related problems. While doing a benchmark at full brightness that device draw a maximum of 5.5 W. Due to the recent advancements, now we see a tablet drawing only 4.2W (admited, it's not on full load, but the screen is also much larger).
Anyway let's get back to our problems.
1. The high power drain when the tablet was off can be solved in the same way as fixing the reported battery capacity. Like previous guides made, you need to fully discharge the battery and then charge for 8 hours with the tablet OFF (don't turn it on). I had to do this 2 times to get the thing to work.
2. 7% battery and 1 cell reported. Like i've said in my first post, i've tried to let the battery discharge and then recharge while turned off. It never work. However, after desoldering the battery wires from the motherboard and then soldering them back (power was cut off from the motherboard during that time) now after my first attempt to discharge/recharge the battery, the capacity and number of cells are reported correctly for the first time since i've had this tablet. I now have to discharge the tablet again to see if it will get stuck at 7% again but at least i get the capacity reported like it should.
2. The shutdown/freeze under load. This thing ocured to me several times in the past but for whatever reason the tablet doesn't do that anymore. Arghhh.... Anyway, if anyone has this problem and knows how to reproduce it in windows (i'm only running windows now) please do tell me in order to test some solutions to it. My first try is to add some capacitors over the main power rail. If this will work, i'll then design a capacitance multiplier circuit using some transistors since there is not enough space in the tablet to simply add capacitors.
3. High standby drain. In my best scenario, the tablet draws 0.3 to 0.5 amps in standby and that's huge. I've tried disconnecting various devices on the motherboard but all that power goes into the cpu area. It has to do with the cpu core voltage and stand by states. The cpu is simply not sleeping deep enough. However that should be fixable with a bios update if teclast should decide to bother with that. One problem though, it seems not all tablets have this problem. But since it's located in the cpu area, if it should be a hardware fault there is no practical diy fix for that.
Just to confirm, you have tried the 2.02 BIOS that was released with the Lollipop beta a few weeks ago? Several people have reported that this BIOS solved the Windows standby battery issues. I've avoided flashing it myself because many people have also bricked their tablets.
Edited post..
I did tried that, no change. I'm close to fixing my particular problem. I'm now at about 1% per hour.
I'll keep testing meanwhile.
this seems allot like my issues with a C5J6, mostly unstable while charging or shortly after charging, also restart/shutdown is a hit and miss, most of the times I need to hold the power button for 10 seconds after I do reboot/shutdown and start the tablet again.
I'm trying to contact the seller (got it from banggood) but they want a video, should not be that hard but I dunno what they can do about obvious design flaws.
Do you think you can ever get the tablet stable yourself? (I'm not completely sure it's part Windows issues or not)
btw, I only use Windows as I was not interested in another android tablet.
I also just picked up a X98 Air 3G from GearBest, it's the C5J6 version. I just ran into the battery charge stuck at 7% in windows. I'm going to try clearing hibernation data, turning off hibernate while low (powercfg -setdcvalueindex SCHEME_CURRENT SUB_BATTERY BATACTIONCRIT 0) and then fully draining (manual) and letting it charge while off overnight.
I'm very interested in what you have been finding, I would be more than willing to help out if you need any assistance. I have a mutli-meter, soldering iron and a desire to get this thing working like it should. It bugs the hell out of me that it has these silly problems. My Bios version is 5.6.5 with a BIOS build date of 1-16-2015.
Could this have something to do with the Intel Power Managment drivers? Does this 7% problem still continue under Android? I suppose I need to do more testing myself.
HWINFO shows 14432 Designed Capacity (half) current capacity is 1007 mWh (7.0%) current voltage 3.784 V
It's been working fine under Windows for the last week, I dont really use Android much though I will likely try RemixOS sometime soon. I was considering blowing out all the partitions (BTW is there a map of all the partitions and their functions/contents?) and going with straight Windows 10 Pro when its full final version is out.
Is there a list of all hardware revisions and their release date and changes/logs? C5JG,C9J8, wtc......) the naming convention seems to have no real correlation to revision date huh?
PS: I also have been getting forced hibernation under heavy load/heat. I wonder if switching to another version of Windows will change anything? Anyone have the 7% issue and shutdowns under Win7?
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
motoi_bogdan said:
Hello liquidmass. The 7% problem happens for me in both windows and android. I haven't figured out what to blame but the hardware side "knows" how to measure the actual charge level, it's just that the reporting part is all wrong or the software is poorly written (BIOS, mostly).
Funny though, all my initial problems seem to have vanished. I cannot figure out why since i can't make the tablet to do those bugs again. The single most probable thing it could have made any difference was the fact that i desoldered the battery wires and short circuited the pads on the motherboard (all 3 of them together) during some initial testing. Since I cannot make the tablet to shutdown under load I can't test a capacitance multiplier circuit over the power rail in order to check for improvements. The damn thing just works now.
Yet, the battery gauge still is broken and since i don't know the software side of these things i cannot figure out why. I can let it discharge completely and it would work fine for some time but it will occur again and so i would have to do it again and so on. I guess i can live with that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm trying to figure out the 7% bug as well but I don't think it has anything to do with software. I might try and open it up to de-solder the battery wires and short the mainboard pins (if anyone else does this, make sure you do disconnect the battery and don't short the wires of the battery!!)
The shutdown under load might be my issues as well, but the most annoying thing probably is that reboot or shutdown don't work most of the time, it will just hang in a state that requires me to press the power button for 10 seconds and start it up again (with shutdown this isn't always obvious until you try and turn it on again)
I kinda hope things get a bit more stable with windows 10, else it's quite an expensive paperweight to be honest.
Hello,
I have several months a X98 Air 3G with id: C5J6. After two weeks I try install thunderbird and windows 10 collapse. I send several mails at Teclast with very little result. Such things as brushing in the language Chinese. After a while I try to reinstall windows via the UBS. After that my tablet has a black screen. I try to send the tablet back to china but that’s no option. I have experience that its never come back. With the USB flasher CH341A and a flash cable I flash the WINBOND 25Q64FW on board after disconnecting the battery. When I read it is flashed. So far so good? After loading with 5 volt and connecting the battery my tablet stays black. Now I put it in the box and put it far a way and buy something else. Never again in china.
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Hello, we have encountered similar problems with the Teclast Air III not turning on. Did you conclude anything?
Larterptx said:
My x98 is been stuck at 0% battery it wont turn on or charge...
I've disassembled the tablet and charged the battery externally, still not working. Any sugestion?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
u should cut the red wire in the battery.. wait 5 minutes to reset then again solder the wire..
I encountered the same problem and above solution worked for me
I turned my tablet off last night and plugged the charger in. The tablet already had maybe 60 or 70 percent charge. This morning it wouldn't turn on or charge. I tried the above and desoldered battery etc but no luck. The charger is putting out 5v. The battery only read 0.05v. And when on charge it reads 0.38v. It's my battery dead and needs replacing it is It another problem.
Same problem not turning on after battery fully drained in win8, please help
The advice I found somewhere to check power management on drivers seems to have stopped power drain in standby (windows 10). in particular Sound controller>realtek I2S Audio Codec>Power management>untick "allow device to wake computer"
Now the thing doesn't drain too badly. Before the rapid drain also lead me to the power on issue which I can now 'solve' by getting a charge in before it drains.
Alos, needs at least 2.1amps charger to fire up after draining.
Still get that uncertain feeling as to whether it will turn on or not!, but the last week or so has been fine.
I can confirm the power drain issues. Our Chinese friends made no effort in stabilizing the power line.
I'm using my AIR 3 as a home automation / wall tablet. Because it was unstable as hell I disconnected the the battery-print from the battery, and connected a laptop charger (4.62a) with buck down converter to it. With some tinkering I made Android believe the battery was 100% full and always charging. This made it much stabler, but still every 2 days, it just dies on me. Keep in mind this is a wall tablet, the screen goes off, only wifi is at full-performance wake-lock. So it's doing absolutely nothing, ice-cold to the touch, and still dies in the middle of the night. It's not logging errors anywhere, so I suspect a hardware problem.
Pondering what to do because the tablet is already flush mounted and I would need a different tablet with the exact screen dimensions.
Absolutely no more Teclast for me...
Has anyone modded the Teclast X98 to work without battery. Plugging a cable directly to the battery connection inside?
I see someone used a laptop charger, but I dont have one. Is it possible to use a regular USB charger?
I just bought a new battery and even with it the drain is absurd. This tablet has become unusuable.
Sadly Teclast is absolute garbage
Dear friends....Be careful with this company....their items is totally un- trustworthy..After sales support is terrible, they dont respond to emails messages etc and generally they dont care about their customers....this is not only my opinion, read the XDA forum about teclast products...Too bad for this company. Try to find what you looking for to another brand.....https://forum.xda-developers.com/x98-air/general/teclast-warning-buy-t3161767
I have air 3g model C5J8, It is working quite well, but with 2.5 A power charger when working with both OS's on it, batery is draining, It means that it is impossible to work with tablet longer than 7-8 hrs even with power charger connected, Is it normal in this model?
I tried using the tablet without battery with a 3.1 amp usb charger, but the Air III powerpeaks are to much for it to handle.
Now with a laptop charger of 4.62 amps, it's mich stabler, but it still dies on me...
Teclast = crap. Don't waste your money on it.
Related
Without knowing what it was, I encountered the RLOD on my phone after leaving it on USB overnight. After reading the first two or three pages of two different threads I tried the little lucky "fixes" and found that none of them worked.
I have a backup phone and need my phone for work, so I put my SIM in that phone only to find it was dead. Went to my local AT&T store and they said the SIM is fried. They replaced the SIM and everything is working now.
I replaced the battery in my TyTN and now I'm recharging my original battery. The phone works without problems, or heating up, or shortened battery life.
So here is my theory:
The phone has a similar monitor as the offgrid solar system does. It's job is two-fold: don't let the battery overcharge -and- don't let the battery every discharge to 0.
I suspect that most problems may happen when the phone is connected to a laptop or desktop computer via the USB port and left on when the computer goes to sleep. At this point, the scenario is similar to a monitor on an offgrid solar home. The monitor decides when to pull from the batteries and when to fire up a generator. But if the monitor is set incorrectly, it constantly flicks between charge/generator and the end result is a huge draw on the batteries (rather than a charge going into the battery).
Now with the laptop asleep the trickle charge is way lower than normal. Activity on the phone may also actually flick the laptop in and out of sleep mode. The basic end result is the phone starts the same type of draw between battery and trickle charge, causing a higher than normal draw on batteries, and finally it heats up the chip on the SIM and fries it either partially or completely.
If you have "resuscitated" your phone, but still have problems, simply replacing the SIM should fix it. If you get the RLOD I'd say get the SIM replaced as it is fried. Once you get the SIM and any SDHC card out, very tentatively try to recharge the old battery on the wall charger. (In other words, don't take your hand off the charger when you plug it into the wall) If you get a yellow light, breath easy. If you get the red light, UNPLUG IMMEDIATELY and throw that battery away!
My research on offgrid solar has been going on for almost a year and I began this theory when I noticed a few things:
1) I saw posts from people with not just HTC phones getting a red light.
2) I saw a few posts where people mentioned they used the USB overnight.
3) I have seen firsthand what the constant toggling can do to a 24V 1500 kilowatt hour battery system and the heat it generates.
Except...
There is no USB power when a laptop is shut down except for a few newer models which are designed intentionally to do so. And USB activity does not wake the laptop, particularly not "in and out" of sleep mode. If it does, your laptop has problems.
Final point.. Hasn't it been ground in to use the supplied charger? Most people who report failures admit they were using third-party chargers.
That said, a USB cable should be a more reliable charge source than a cheap AC charger due to the fact that a laptop has to have clean power itself and cheap AC chargers can fail in many fashions and often result in excessive DC voltage or AC voltage winding up in the source.
Hi,
My 2 week old Nexus 7 shut off while charging - I didn't even notice! - and it won't turn back on, whether I connect it to AC power using its charger and cable or whether I connect it to my computer.
I tried holding down the power button and the power button + volume buttons, didn't work. What can I do?
I tried the volume down + power trick again and it worked. Weird. Is this a known problem? Running Android 4.2.2 here.
tehpea said:
Weird. Is this a known problem? Running Android 4.2.2 here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a variety of different problems revolving around battery issues. What percent of N7 owners experience them is unknown, but a variety of different syndromes have been reported in these forums:
a) tablet mysteriously won't start (& battery is believed to be charged)
b) tablet shuts down spontaneously (battery charge < 40%, but > warning level ~ 14-16%)
c) % charge reading doesn't change / won't go to 100% on charger
d) attempt to start tablet results in "static screen" / "sparkling screen"
e) charge rate is extremely slow
Every time (d) is reported, it seems to be a case of a discharged battery, and afaik always resolves by putting the tab on the charger for a while.
All the other syndromes don't uniformly resolve with a single fix, but a lot of folks have reported finding (when they pop the back cover off) that the battery terminal plug was loose, or that unplugging their battery for a few minutes resolved their problems.
There are two chips in the N7 that relate to battery issues. One is the TI "fuel gauge" chip. It does nothing but observe the battery voltage and current, and use that to produce a "% charge" value. This is exactly the value reported by the OS. (It literally is read straight from hardware, there is no "battery calibration" software in the OS involved). This chip is directly connected across the battery terminals, and is essentially on 100% of the time - even when the tablet is turned off. The only way to "reset" it is to unplug the battery from the tablet for a little while.
The second is a chip made by SMB that understands USB device detection protocols, and it determines the battery charging current - both when the tablet is on and also when it is turned "off".
Both of those chips appear to be "stateful", and also have modes that are supposed to deal with dead batteries (not just low voltage, but seriously low voltage).
My suspicion is that some of the above problems are caused by a loose/intermittent battery connector plugs. A voltage drop-out of a few microseconds might not cause the tablet to crash (current is drawn from power-supply capacitors during the dropout), but can seriously screw up the statefulness of either the charging chip or the fuel gauge chip (the voltage droops a little, but the sense current goes nuts.)
So anyway, keep an eye on it and have a look at the numerous "battery problem" threads on here. If you continue to have problems, maybe pop off the back and see if you have a loose connector. Other than that - send the tablet back under a RMA.
Consider checking this sticky.
You'll probably find your answer.
-bk
Just exchange it!
Unless its been fine since. Cause occasionally, poop happens.
Sent from my cell phone telephone....
Hello my Xperia Sp just run out of battery and shut down.I pluged it in saw the sony logo and when i tried to turn it on it would not respond.
The only thing it did was kept the red light on (indicating charging).I tried pressing the off button for over 30 seconds with no results. Not it is stuck and i cant do anything about that.
Help please.
Nevermind the problem got fixed by itself.
The battery (about 2 % run out and the phone kinda reseted itself.It opened just fine.
So if anyone else gets this problem just let your battery drain itself.
jackaros said:
Hello my Xperia Sp just run out of battery and shut down.I pluged it in saw the sony logo and when i tried to turn it on it would not respond.
The only thing it did was kept the red light on (indicating charging).I tried pressing the off button for over 30 seconds with no results. Not it is stuck and i cant do anything about that.
Help please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just to confirm you plugged it into a mains supply? USB from your computer to phone charging is not enough to kick start a totally dead battery.
If you have plugged it in to a wall socket and it still doesn't work, give it some time.
I think the battery and the phone's software combine to stop the phone operating at unsafe voltages, the safe operating range for a standard lithium ion batteries is 3.2-4.2 volts (though android may be different). They spend most of their time at 3.7 volts though and this is why they are described as such when you buy them separately.
If, for some reason your phone's software thinks your battery is at 3.1 volts, it won't do anything until it thinks it's at 3.2. Similarly if a protected battery is taken below 3.2 volts it won't provide any power until it hits its minimum voltage. In theory your phone should have cut out before the protection cut in, but bad stuff happens to good people.
Sometimes a protected battery gets drained so much that the tiny flow of electricty required to power the protection circuit stops and as the ultimate failsafe, protected batteries stop working when this circuit is not functioning.
(I'm talking about standard batteries here, not necessarily phone ones)
Sometimes cheap basic chargers won't be able to get such batteries working, but better chargers are able to send tiny trickles to a battery to start the protection circuit and make such batteries charge again. I'd be very surprised if android didn't take this into account and have some way of ensuring over-discharged batteries with a tripped protection circuit can be charged. That said I'm not sure whether the protection is all software on mobile phones?
Like I say give it some time - getting that first .1 of a volt can take a while when the battery is totally flat. If it hasn't changed after at least 2 hours then I'd worry.
Parkside said:
Just to confirm you plugged it into a mains supply? USB from your computer to phone charging is not enough to kick start a totally dead battery.
If you have plugged it in to a wall socket and it still doesn't work, give it some time.
I think the battery and the phone's software combine to stop the phone operating at unsafe voltages, the safe operating range for a standard lithium ion batteries is 3.2-4.2 volts (though android may be different). They spend most of their time at 3.7 volts though and this is why they are described as such when you buy them separately.
If, for some reason your phone's software thinks your battery is at 3.1 volts, it won't do anything until it thinks it's at 3.2. Similarly if a protected battery is taken below 3.2 volts it won't provide any power until it hits its minimum voltage. In theory your phone should have cut out before the protection cut in, but bad stuff happens to good people.
Sometimes a protected battery gets drained so much that the tiny flow of electricty required to power the protection circuit stops and as the ultimate failsafe, protected batteries stop working when this circuit is not functioning.
(I'm talking about standard batteries here, not necessarily phone ones)
Sometimes cheap basic chargers won't be able to get such batteries working, but better chargers are able to send tiny trickles to a battery to start the protection circuit and make such batteries charge again. I'd be very surprised if android didn't take this into account and have some way of ensuring over-discharged batteries with a tripped protection circuit can be charged. That said I'm not sure whether the protection is all software on mobile phones?
Like I say give it some time - getting that first .1 of a volt can take a while when the battery is totally flat. If it hasn't changed after at least 2 hours then I'd worry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone was pluged in the wall socket.After this i tried to turn it on (while pluged) nothing happened so i unpluged it to press the off button (i upluged it because i could not reach the button because i had the case on) but the red light ( at the bottom of the device indicating charging) did not turn of.So i tried to reset the device by pressing the off button but i waited for almost 30 seconds (while pressing it) and nothing ... not even a vibration.So i left the phone away with the light stick on till the 1 % left was drained and the phone shut down due to lack of power.
So then i pluged it back in to the wall socket and it started charging again and so i turned the device on.This time it responed and opened up .Now nothing is wrong
It happened again.... i dont know the problem but the solution was the same...
jackaros said:
The phone was pluged in the wall socket.After this i tried to turn it on (while pluged) nothing happened so i unpluged it to press the off button (i upluged it because i could not reach the button because i had the case on) but the red light ( at the bottom of the device indicating charging) did not turn of.So i tried to reset the device by pressing the off button but i waited for almost 30 seconds (while pressing it) and nothing ... not even a vibration.So i left the phone away with the light stick on till the 1 % left was drained and the phone shut down due to lack of power.
So then i pluged it back in to the wall socket and it started charging again and so i turned the device on.This time it responed and opened up .Now nothing is wrong
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Click to collapse
You left the phone in the charger to drain or not? If i put the charger off then red light isn't opened..
Also, how many hours did you wait?
billaras481 said:
You left the phone in the charger to drain or not? If i put the charger off then red light isn't opened..
Also, how many hours did you wait?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It took about half an hour because of the battery level being low.
Guys im having the same problem.. anyone who can help will be appreciated.
The following is some testing I did out of curiosity. My methodology is decidedly short of scientific, don't take any of it as the gospel truth/hard fact. Proving me wrong is encouraged.
It's also well into reasonably-TL;DR territory. There's a summary at the bottom.
A while back, I bought a Xiaomi power bank, and with it a reasonably powerful charger to fuel it.
During one particularly sleepness night, I'd settled down in bed with my phone - which was nearly dead after laying neglected on my desk for a couple of days - and set it charging whilst reading news and whatnot. A half hour later, I noticed that it had accumulated a surprising amount of charge, despite me using it.
Curiosity piqued, I bought a Charger Doctor sort of thing - which from here on out I'll refer to as a "monitor". It's one of these specifically (chosen based on review found here), to see how much amperage the phone actually pulls if given as much juice as it wants.
Unfortunately, these tests are a bit flawed - I have a pair of 24/28AWG micro-USB cables on order, but for the moment all I have is the input pigtail that's on the monitor (it also has a micro-USB port for input) and a short cable that came with my power bank to go between monitor and phone. I think that the input pigtail is limiting the maximum delivered amperage, because the amperage doesn't rise above the maximum observed even while in use on the charger (more on this later). I'll get another batch of samples when the new cables arrive.
Does not seem to be the case, or at least, the pigtail is reasonably capable. Switching to the micro-USB port actually lowered the current delivered.
It looks like short of soldering a new pigtail in (using thicker wires), there's nothing I can really do to eliminate this potential bottleneck. The pigtail is short enough anyway that it might not be adding enough resistance to make an appreciable difference.
The charger used was a Xiaomi MDY-30-EC (2A output max, Quick Charge 2.0-able apparently). In hindsight, I should have gotten an MDY-30-EH for future-proofing (2.5A/QC 3.0), but you know what they say about hindsight.
I drained the phone to 10% and set it charging, checking on it every now and then to see what it was doing. Then I proceeded to forget about it for a bit, so it kind of got away from me, but the power curve for 10%-33% proved to be fairly flat.
10% ~ 33% - ~1.58a
33% - 1.5a update: observed to still be holding 1.58a up to at least 43% in the second run
50% - 1.14a
57% - 1.05a
60% - 0.965a
79% - 0.865a
80% - 0.775a
83% - 0.645a
85% - 0.565a (0.50a)
87% - 0.505a (0.465a)
87% - 0.475a
95% - 0.165a (~0.115a)
100% - ~0.07a (intermittent)
Note that for much of the time above 60%, I had the screen on at the lock screen and auto-dimmed ("keep awake while charging" on via Development Options). It wasn't until 85% or so that I thought to check if the phone will pull additional needed power directly, instead of draining the battery. It does seem to, so at 85% and 87% I shut the screen off and recorded the draw.
As you can see, the phone will use up to 1.58 amps if given as much, and stays above 1A until 60% (where it suddenly drops to 0.96A). It's only when it reaches about 80% that the stock "fast"/travel charger becomes adequate, and 85% when a standard charger or USB connection can charge it with the screen off, and neither of those leave much if any excess capacity for the phone to consume if it's awake/being used.
Overall, it seems like quite a sane charging curve, edging into overly cautious. I'd guess this is because the battery is technically non-removable, and they didn't want people sending their phones in under warranty for the battery replacements that a more aggressive charging curve might have caused. Not that any of it mattered, what with them only ever offering a 750mA charger anyway.
Again, this test is flawed from the outset due to lack of a decent input cable. I seriously doubt it pulls much more for charging, but a proper cable might allow the phone to pull more for active use; at 10%, the current didn't go above 1.58A even while messing with it.
Fast-charging the battery might also cause longevity issues, because of potential heat build-up. Don't be an idiot like me and set it next to your pillow, only to find it under said pillow or blankets in the morning all toasty and only half charged because the safeties - yes, surprisingly we do have over-temperature safeties - kicked the charging circuit off. Also probably not the best idea to do gaming or anything else intensive on it while charging at full tilt, what with the processor's EMI shield being in direct contact with the battery and all.
Further on this: The heat build-up doesn't seem to be bad, with the phone sitting back-down on a wooden desk. In fact, the casing on the charger itself got much warmer than the back cover of the phone after half an hour of running at maximum input, to the point I started worrying about it instead.
I would tentatively say that "fast-charging" won't hurt the battery, at least, not by way of overheating it.
Some further power draw tests. Anything under .5a might be (probably is) inaccurate to some degree, and the monitor's minimum seems to be 0.07a.
Booting the phone - 0.44a (note that this isn't even enough to power the boot process what with the CPU saturation, so rebooting at <10% is probably a bad idea)
100%, screen on at launcher, brightness maximum - ~0.195a
100%, screen on at launcher, brightness minimum - below cutoff
Following is at 100%, brightness maximum:
GPS on (no satellites in view) - 0.30a
Bluetooth on (active scan) - ~0.42a
Bluetooth on (passive, unlinked) - 0.215a
Bluetooth on (actively broadcasting) - intermittent bumps to ~0.24a
CPU loaded (1.3ghz) (Passmark integer math) - ~0.78a
GPU loaded (Passmark 3d test - complex) - ~0.59a
GPU loaded (3dMark Ice Storm) - ~0.42a
3dMark physics test - ~0.68a
In summary:
We can use up to 2A chargers (possibly more if excess capacity is needed by the phone being under load while charging), despite only ever having been officially offered a 750mA charger at most. Thanks for that, Motorola.
The charging circuit supports bypassing the battery for direct power, if charger capacity beyond what's needed for topping the battery up is available
The screen uses a fairly tiny amount of power at minimum brightness
The screen uses a lot of power at max brightness
The GPS also uses a lot of power, roughly half that of the screen at full brightness if measurements are accurate
The GPU uses a large amount of power (note: real-world usage for the GPU outside of games is normally very bursty, but tends to get saturated a lot for UI acceleration in LP/MM)
The CPU uses a ton of power (note: real-world usage generally has the CPU napping at 300mhz where it barely consumes anything, and/or bouncing between 600mhz-1ghz)
More:
The charging circuitry seems to be able to utilize capacity above 1.585a, based on momentary spikes to 1.6a/1.64a. I'd guess my charger is a limiting factor here.
Our phone meets and exceeds Quick Charge 1.0's nebulous "30% in 30 minutes" marketing blurb/guideline.
New USB cables arrived today. Some additional things:
- Monoprice USB cables kind of suck. One can only pull slightly less than the short ribbon cable that came with my power bank, the other one pulls a good .15a less. I'll have to fiddle with them a bit to see if it's a connector pressure issue or what. Not really what I was hoping for from 24AWG cables.
- Charging starting at 5%, the phone tops out at about 1.585a, with occasional spikes (probably combined hits to CPU+GPU+disk) to 1.6-1.64a.
- The 1.585a number is only for screen on and working, actual charging seems to be capped at roundabouts 1.5a.
- The charger monitor actually has higher resistance through its micro-USB port than it does the crappy little pigtail...hooray for Made in China I guess. Maybe I'll make a new pigtail of this thick old cable end I have laying here...
- At maximum speed and the screen dimmed, with the phone sitting at ~26%, the lock screen reports 1 hour, 22 minutes until full. Not too shabby at all, if it's accurate.
For my next trick, I'll measure the time it takes to go from ~5% to 60%, since emergency charging is probably more relevant to people, and I'm a bit curious about how it compares to Qualcomm's super-special Quick Charge.
Last post, since I feel like I've gotten about as much as I can out of experimenting with my current equipment. I'll edit the first post to reflect all the information so far.
In 33 minutes, the phone recharged 38% of its capacity (coming to 43% total). This is actually into Quick Charge 1.0 territory (which seems to aim for 30% in 30 minutes using "up to" 2A), so that's pretty neat.
At this stage, unlike the earlier test, it was still pulling a steady 1.58a...with the screen off. *shrugs* I'm not sure what to make of it, maybe there's something I'm missing. It was markedly warmer in here this time, so if anything the charging circuit should have began ramping the current down sooner.
And yes, 1.58a again. I'm not sure what's going on, it just randomly decides it doesn't want to charge at full speed.
I'm wondering at this point if it's not my charger that's a limiting factor. It got fairly toasty earlier when the phone was charging balls-to-the-wall, and it's only a (supposedly) 2A adapter. I do need to buy another charger, as a household member needs a new one, maybe I'll look into getting a 3A unit...
Anyway,
In 60 minutes, it had recovered 66% (coming to 71%). I was going to go for timing 60% (which appears to be the Quick Charge 2.0 target), but instead set an actual hour timer because 1: we'd missed it anyway (60% in 30 minutes) and 2: I didn't want to wake the phone up every now and then to see what % it was at, nor did I want to leave the screen on and affect the result.
'course, the QC 1.0/2.0 targets don't mean much, because they don't specify the capacity of which you're trying to fill 30%/60%. Still, now you can brag to your friends that yea, you totally have a Quick Charge-capable phone...and it's almost true.
people do this, right? compare phone-charging e-peens? no? : \
So yea, hey. Small battery even in its day, but if you plug a big enough charger (or a capable power bank) into it, it juices up pretty fast.
This post didn't seem to get enough attention.
Very thorough and enlightening.
I think I have a 2amp charger laying around somewhere and I can plug in a fast-charge USB cable from my brother's Samsung G6 Edge.
I'll see if it speeds up charging at all.
Hi guys,
I normally charge my p20 pro every night. Plugging in an hour ago, I recognized that supercharge doesn't work. Sometimes charging completely stops.
Tried to reboot, nothing changes...
Installed battery app and see that maximum charging current is about 1700 mah.
Does anyone now what it could be?
Tried another charger, same situation. Tried different cable, same situation. P20 from my girlfriend on my charger and supercharge works fine.
Thx Benny
Gesendet von meinem CLT-L29 mit Tapatalk
Must be a fault with your phone if thought tried another known good charger and it still doesn't work.
Another strange behavior is that sometimes charging stops. And sometimes usb options pop up like if you connect to a computer... But phone is on charger.
Gesendet von meinem CLT-L29 mit Tapatalk
Sounds like hardware issue. Get a replacement.
Sent from my CLT-L29 using Tapatalk
Hi there, I've been dealing with the same issue as you for the past few days. Mine I can confirm has resolved automatically. Do you expose your device to water or moisture alot? I believe that the p20 has been optimized for safety incase the phone is ever dealt with moisture in the charging port. My issue was that the phone kept saying 'supplying power to connected USB device' when in reality, there was no device connected to the phone in the first place. This was on the night I had dipped the device in water, it appears the USB port is more susceptible to being affected by moisture than any other area of the device. I have taken note that while the charging port is wet, the phone does not enter supercharging. As for how I was able to resolve this issue, I first used a blower to clean any dust or debris in the charging port, this allowed the device to return to its normal state and not think that it is connected to another device. However, this still didn't allow supercharging to work, the following day i was desperate to get this fixed without taking it to the service center. And it would still only show 'charging' and not 'supercharging' whenever I connected the device to the charger (it would actually show super charging for a split second and then going back to charging). I finally decided to just clean the port with water instead (I know this might sound risky and stupid) and so I did it. When I tried plugging it in again it would not supercharge, but i already had anticipated this. Instead, I waited for the next couple of hours for the water to dry out and when it did, finally super charge was working once again. So my suggestion to you is:
1) Clean the charging port as well as you can, and have some patience (incase you do end up using water, as the phone does not super charge when it finds the port to be wet.) Also if you do end up using a pin or something similar make sure to gently wipe away the debris (if any) and be careful not to damage any of the connectors of the port.
2) disconnect the charging adapter and make sure it is plugged out for atleast 30 minutes before plugging the cable and adapter again.
3) if these don't help you then you should definitely go to the service centre.
EDIT: IF YOU DO USE WATER PLEASE MAKE SURE TO ONLY USE A SMALL AMOUNT AND NOT BATHE THE CHARGING PORT IN WATER!!
Thx psycho!
My phone got wet yesterday and the day before. Today morning supercharge works again. Yesterday evening the phone said normal charging but not plugged into wall. Only plugged the charger into phone.
That might be a symptom of a short circuit by water.
I got an app to measure the current ampere.
Does anyone know how much ampere the p20 takes from the charger?
I know that the charger goes down with the ampere when getting near 100%.
I will take a measurement in the afternoon again when supercharging.
How long should I take to get from 30 percent to 90 percent for example?
I hope it's not a hardware problem...
Thx guys.
Gesendet von meinem CLT-L29 mit Tapatalk
You're welcome! I couldn't find any solutions online too so I get how you feel. I think it's just the way they programmed this phone, it won't super charge when it detects any kind of moisture underneath it, when that dries up it goes back to normal so it charges as it should. As for the max current you should expect it to be around 4800 mA - 4900 mA on lower battery levels. Expect this to decrease over time but that is normal, it's just how Huawei's super charging works to ensure that your battery lasts longer and is safe to use. So if it charges above 4000 mA when you first plug it in you should be good. You'll notice the phone starts of slow but as each second passes by the charging speed rises. Also expect charging to slow down on heavy uses such as gaming and when the phone is hot. I think you should be fine as long as the phone continously says that it's super charging at all battery levels. Expect a 0-100% in about 1h 20 minutes.
Below is an example of the max current speeds I get out supercharging but note that this varies slightly depending on battery percentage.
This happened to me too ?
It has been 4 days since my phone got wet and it still doesn't support suppercharge. What do I do? ? Currently charging at 1700 mA according to Ampere
markabes23 said:
It has been 4 days since my phone got wet and it still doesn't support suppercharge. What do I do? ? Currently charging at 1700 mA according to Ampere
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have some patience. As long as the phone displays supercharging in the lockscreen it's fine. It's also possible that there's still moisture in the charging port/battery area that the phone detects which is preventing it from supercharging. I recommend drying the phone thoroughly and waiting. If it doesn't work within a week I recommend factory resetting your device and/or trying a different cable and adapter. If nothing works, i recommend taking your device to the service center. I have personally experienced this myself and the issue had resolved itself within 3-4 of occurance.
psycho.b94 said:
Have some patience. As long as the phone displays supercharging in the lockscreen it's fine. It's also possible that there's still moisture in the charging port/battery area that the phone detects which is preventing it from supercharging. I recommend drying the phone thoroughly and waiting. If it doesn't work within a week I recommend factory resetting your device and/or trying a different cable and adapter. If nothing works, i recommend taking your device to the service center. I have personally experienced this myself and the issue had resolved itself within 3-4 of occurance.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, Charging will appear and then the device will say SuperCharging and will go back to Charging a split second after. Haaaay. This is so frustrating. Today marks the 5th day
markabes23 said:
Yes, Charging will appear and then the device will say SuperCharging and will go back to Charging a split second after. Haaaay. This is so frustrating. Today marks the 5th day
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had the same issue, except that before it wouldn't say supercharging for even a split second and it would only say charging. Overtime though, the phone eventually started saying supercharging for a split second (just like in your case). I feel as though this is a good sign.
Avoid charging your phone overnight if you can, it isn't good for the phone, heat etc, supposed to shut off and not allow anything through but it still does and it's best avoided.
In regards to your device not taking the full effect.
It does actually sound like a fault, allow a complete discharge (also something you shouldn't do) then give it a shot, plug straight into a wall rather than an extension.
Other than that I'd say RMA.
dladz said:
Avoid charging your phone overnight if you can, it isn't good for the phone, heat etc, supposed to shut off and not allow anything through but it still does and it's best avoided.
In regards to your device not taking the full effect.
It does actually sound like a fault, allow a complete discharge (also something you shouldn't do) then give it a shot, plug straight into a wall rather than an extension.
Other than that I'd say RMA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's been proven that keeping charger connected at 100% charge does not damage the battery and some times it's even good to discharge the phone completely so battery is 0% since it helps the battery and operating system to keep proper % level registered. Since it has happened that battery begins to think at 45% is 0% and 100% is 100% so when it reaches 45% it shuts down and tells you batter is empty 0%. This is because battery has been miss calibrated in the operating system which has an file that registers which point battery is empty and full. So this is why emptying the battery fully few times does help calibration to stay correctly with 0% as 0% and 100% as 100%.
For the OP it seems somethings odd with supercharge, could be USB port on the phone, USB controler on main board or the charger and cable.
Jake.S said:
It's been proven that keeping charger connected at 100% charge does not damage the battery and some times it's even good to discharge the phone completely so battery is 0% since it helps the battery and operating system to keep proper % level registered. Since it has happened that battery begins to think at 45% is 0% and 100% is 100% so when it reaches 45% it shuts down and tells you batter is empty 0%. This is because battery has been miss calibrated in the operating system which has an file that registers which point battery is empty and full. So this is why emptying the battery fully few times does help calibration to stay correctly with 0% as 0% and 100% as 100%.
For the OP it seems somethings odd with supercharge, could be USB port on the phone, USB controler on main board or the charger and cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMFG there is always one, Lol i'm not going to go into this any more than i absolutely have to.
To put it mildly, you're completely wrong, and i don't care what you've read, please understand physics, if you push power towards something and continue that pressure, whether electric or otherwise, something has to take the brunt of that force, capacitors can't do this forever, which is why they burn out.
I've worked in the mobile industry for over 20 years, i've seen what 6 months of charging every single device on the planet does EVERY SINGLE TIM, iPhones down to nokia 100's
Please don't go on about this, i've seen this 1,000's of times on 1,000's of devices.
Your battery will either bloat or lose efficiency, or your actual device will inherit anomalies, i really do not have time to type what i typed nearly 10 years ago so you can understand.
Don't talk to me about capacitors, which is the only thing which is stopping that charge from getting to the motherboard of the device.
The only reason you should charge your device overnight is because your provider wants your device to die so you can buy another, and that's IT.
I've seen a battery which was a highly rated lithium battery stretch a device in half with industrial sized screws, the battery stretched from 0.4" to 2.2 inches.
The only thing i did was to charge it a lot and it split the device in half (same device used to diagnose mercedes benz cars and BMW's)
Please don't drop "it's been proven" in here, you're very very wrong and the only person you're helping is your provider.
You make your decision who you'd like to listen to, i can't be arsed arguing any more than i already have.
To the OP.
RMA your phone, that's not right.
dladz said:
OMFG there is always one, Lol i'm not going to go into this any more than i absolutely have to.
To put it mildly, you're completely wrong, and i don't care what you've read, please understand physics, if you push power towards something and continue that pressure, whether electric or otherwise, something has to take the brunt of that force, capacitors can't do this forever, which is why they burn out.
I've worked in the mobile industry for over 20 years, i've seen what 6 months of charging every single device on the planet does EVERY SINGLE TIM, iPhones down to nokia 100's
Please don't go on about this, i've seen this 1,000's of times on 1,000's of devices.
Your battery will either bloat or lose efficiency, or your actual device will inherit anomalies, i really do not have time to type what i typed nearly 10 years ago so you can understand.
Don't talk to me about capacitors, which is the only thing which is stopping that charge from getting to the motherboard of the device.
The only reason you should charge your device overnight is because your provider wants your device to die so you can buy another, and that's IT.
I've seen a battery which was a highly rated lithium battery stretch a device in half with industrial sized screws, the battery stretched from 0.4" to 2.2 inches.
The only thing i did was to charge it a lot and it split the device in half (same device used to diagnose mercedes benz cars and BMW's)
Please don't drop "it's been proven" in here, you're very very wrong and the only person you're helping is your provider.
You make your decision who you'd like to listen to, i can't be arsed arguing any more than i already have.
To the OP.
RMA your phone, that's not right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To bad for you then, since your fact are wrong. It's been proven my bigger professionals out there that it's a myth that battery gets damaged when keeping charger connected at 100% since when it reaches 100% charge point it will stop charging the battery, but mobile will still be running from Charger. So yeah just admit you are wrong, i'm not the one that's wrong.
Also they did say one thing, damage did occur only on very old batteries that exsisted years ago, then those kind of batteries couldn't handle and would become damaged when charger was connected at 100% and it was different type of battery back then as well. Now we got something called Ion battery which can handle the full charge better than old batteries did.
Also idc how many years you been working with phones, alot of people still think wrong and have wrong facts still.
But now your words are against over 10 or more proffessionals out there that has proven opisit answer, so yeah just admit you are one with wrong facts.
Not last but least, alot of people take old facts with new batteries and still belives that battery are affected same way. But answer is no it isn't affected same way. lithium ion is another kind of battery we use for quite few years now. But before lithium ion came then it was a another kind of battery that did not handle itself well with 100% charge and would easily wear out alot quicker and get damaged.
Jake.S said:
To bad for you then, since your fact are wrong. It's been proven my bigger professionals out there that it's a myth that battery gets damaged when keeping charger connected at 100% since when it reaches 100% charge point it will stop charging the battery, but mobile will still be running from Charger. So yeah just admit you are wrong, i'm not the one that's wrong.
Also they did say one thing, damage did occur only on very old batteries that exsisted years ago, then those kind of batteries couldn't handle and would become damaged when charger was connected at 100% and it was different type of battery back then as well. Now we got something called Ion battery which can handle the full charge better than old batteries did.
Also idc how many years you been working with phones, alot of people still think wrong and have wrong facts still.
But now your words are against over 10 or more proffessionals out there that has proven opisit answer, so yeah just admit you are one with wrong facts.
Not last but least, alot of people take old facts with new batteries and still belives that battery are affected same way. But answer is no it isn't affected same way. lithium ion is another kind of battery we use for quite few years now. But before lithium ion came then it was a another kind of battery that did not handle itself well with 100% charge and would easily wear out alot quicker and get damaged.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Lol ok as I said I'm not going to go into it
You overcharge your phone and see how you get on.
Tell me have you ever got anything close to these battery stats for SOT
https://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-5/how-to/screen-time-leaderboard-post-longest-sot-t3780178
14 hours 20 mins?
No I know you haven't
You carry on and I'll do my thing.
Max up time for an iPhone 6 183 hours.
That's a week to you.
I know you have never seen these numbers.
But whilst you're sitting there with your head in the sand overcharging your phone every night lol.
Spare a moment for what you could have.
Don't spread crap without proof.
I have tangible proof I've seen and had to replace devices because of it. Screens, batteries, buttons.
I've seen more kit then you'll ever see.
You carry on the way you are but don't tell people to do what you do. It's idiotic and until you realise that you'll believe what you've read.
FYI you're relying on capacitors.
The second they fail your screwed.
Lol lithium is lithium..
You charge it it expands, please try to understand the logistics and dynamics of what your are attempting to talk about.
Or I'll tell you what, you keep overcharging your poor phone and I won't and we'll see who's phone lasts the longest after a year. I promise you I'll put you to shame.
You're taking someone else's word you don't know over someone with first hand experience of this behaviour
On your head be it
Supercharging Works Again!
So after 11 days my p20 pro's ability to supercharge is back and Im so relived. Thanks for all your help!
markabes23 said:
So after 11 days my p20 pro's ability to supercharge is back and Im so relived. Thanks for all your help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you noticably change anything? Or does it appear random?
dladz said:
Did you noticably change anything? Or does it appear random?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It just appears randomly. When I was at work earlier, it worked. But now that I'm home and I plugged in my phone it doesn't work again. It just promps every once in a while. It's like trying to supercharge and something is stopping my phone from doing it
my pro had a swim last night, and now it doesn't charge at all..