Model Paint - Nexus 6 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting

Know there's a couple posts about people trying to paint the back of their phone but didn't find anything that specifically mentioned the Testors brand of model paint. Has anyone used model paint on the plastic backs of the phone? Wondering if model paint is good to use. Thinking it should be since it's made for plastic models. Been thinking about using some Testors paint to color the X on my phone. They also make some texture paint, but not sure if I want to even attempt that much of a paint job on the whole back. Thoughts on model paint?
http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/enamel-paint/bottles

Sorry, I can't answer your question but seeing that ad brought back very fond memories of my childhood.

I always had more luck with their flat paint finishes than glossy for larger areas, with some notable exceptions. Not heard anything specific about using it on phones, but you might want to consider that our phones get lots of use over time, so I wonder if paint will more easily chip, scratch, etc. with continual handling. Even though that brand of enamel paint is known for being rather durable, it's still paint.
Honestly, I'd consider a vinyl wrap or similar before painting - good luck, however you choose to go.
- wader

Related

New Look - PaintJobs

A couple of months ago I bought my first PPC , a Wizard... I bought it second hand, so the paint is a little...oh well, a little missing I want to repaint it so this is why I started this thread.
Did anybody else painted his ? If yes, please post pcitures and a "How to" would be nice.
-What kind of paint?
-Any problems or even better, how not to ruin your Wizard...
Before I bought paint and stuff...I tried a little in Photoshop so I make up my mind about collors and style.
Here are a few ...clues ...I still didn't made up my mind.
I like the black with silver buttons one but the red one would be great with the guava bubbles theme.....
The red one is really cool
Makes me think of the neonode
there are two paint jobs done on Wizard. Search this forum for the 'white wizard'.
thx
Thx 2 Photoshop
Anybody has any new ideas ? ...
I'm still very interested in any ideas...
what paint should I use ? Acrilic or ...I don't know, spray...
I heard that car paint is very good and strong
And that acrilic paint responds to chemical agents even after 10 days , wich is bad
Any info is much apreciated
And of course...new color ideas
Hello
hanmin said:
there are two paint jobs done on Wizard. Search this forum for the 'white wizard'.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I reviewed your opinion...and from site to site I've come to one of your links I think
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89422
That's exactly the paint I need (( It looks sooo nice.
But I'm not from US and I cannot order online from US, is not worth it...
I'm reading now his thread. I'll be back
I actually work at Micheals Arts and Crafts.
I have thought about it several times, but I have the 8125 version, so there isn't much to paint.
IF you were to try, I would recommend plastic paint with a glaze. But I don't know 100% if it'd work.
I wanna color mine, but like stated, I don't wanna ruin it.
Obviously you'd have to take it apart because if you didn't then you'd have key sticking problems.
Good luck to anyone who tries!
I updated the yellow one, on my girlfriends suggestion
I'm pretty sure that you'll have to tear it all apart. I have done this once...when I bought it, my display was scratched, so I fixed it with some fine sanding and a chemical solution(some kind of acid).
I read about other that painted their stuff...I'm not a native in english...so I don't understand all things...like someone said he used "Dupli-Colors Grey Primer, Gloss Black and Crystal Clear" ...what is that ?
Is there a shop that sells some paint especially for plastic ?...
I'm thinking about ... Pearl Glossy White and very shiny Gloss Black
I would prefer a camo one I tend to be different. I asked a friend of mine and he said that he had to take his apart to do it. I would not like to do this, but for fashion sake I may have to.
anichillus said:
I updated the yellow one, on my girlfriends suggestion
I'm pretty sure that you'll have to tear it all apart. I have done this once...when I bought it, my display was scratched, so I fixed it with some fine sanding and a chemical solution(some kind of acid).
I read about other that painted their stuff...I'm not a native in english...so I don't understand all things...like someone said he used "Dupli-Colors Grey Primer, Gloss Black and Crystal Clear" ...what is that ?
Is there a shop that sells some paint especially for plastic ?...
I'm thinking about ... Pearl Glossy White and very shiny Gloss Black
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dupi-Colors is a brand of paint here in the states that are made to match automotive colors. They come in either spray cans or small bottles for touchup. Hope this helps BTW the glossy white and gloss black sounds real nice. Keep us updated on how it goes if you decide to do this and of course take plenty of notes and photos of the process.
Kirby
Thx
Thx, and I will keep you posted. I'm plannig on starting this job monday, because right now I have allot on my head
For painting plastic, the best thing to use is vinyl dye. You can get it at any automotive store. It comes in a spray can. Its a very thin liquid that is absorbed by the plastic so the color is deeper than the surface. Scratches will not show as a different color. This also makes it almost idiot proof. Its really hard to force it to run.
If you are going to paint it after that, fine, but it will make the painting much easier and if something does scratch it, the surface underneath will be the matching color.
Keep in mind that with vinyl dye you can only go darker than the orignial color. It would work great for black. Using red on the silver plastic would result in a sliver/red color.
I have used this stuff on many plastic items and it always works perfectly. Paint is great for a super high gloss, but too much of a pain for anything that you will have in hand often. Paint adds layers over the plastic. Vinyl dye just changes its color.
I suggest you look up some pc case modding instructions. They are the masters of painting and dying plastic.
Thx man
That came in handy. I'm searching right now for some case modding forums. If you know any, please post them.
Almoust there !!!
Okay, so I delayed the whole thing a couple of days. Now today, when I want to the car paint store, I was looking for Black Gloss and sidef or pearl White, unfortunately they didn't have the white.
So ... it toked me about 5 hours, but it's ready. I left the buttons, for later next week, when I will go again at the store.
I bought a Gloss Black by Dupli Colours (a spray can)
I have applied 2 layers of paint, I will apply another one next week when I get the pearl white.
I'm very satisfied of how it came out, trust me. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures before , too cought up in the game but you can see "remains" of what it once was , only by looking at the upper buttons.
Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's been a while since I've last used a camera
By the way, I also painted the mouse, because it was geting rusty...All is Black and Silver
And other pictures
...other pictures
I forgot to mention, My mouse's and Wizard's original colour were all grey silver, so it was kinda difficult to paint black over silver
Hi
You are very brave
I have been thinking about doing this myself.
If I may give some constructive criticism.
Painting from a spray can is a very delicate process.
I can see by the pics that the surface was not prepped 100%.
Try this
1. Use very fine water sand paper and smooth all areas to be painted, they must be supper smooth
2. Be sure no dust or stray dirt on surfaces
3. Use a plastic primer for first coat
4. When you spray use a small amount of spray per coat (your first coat must only just be visible, It must look like a fine dust layer on the plastic)
5. Let it dry for 5 hours at least (If you paint over a non dry layer it stops the paint from curing properly and it will chip or scratch off) Then sand again using super fine water paper then apply next coat.
If done right you will only start to cover all areas completely after 4th or 5th coat. THE BIGEST KILLER OF PAINT JOBS IS HASTE. Take your time, you need to spend a few days to get the proper finish.
6. Do 5 or 6 super fine coats and then 2 coats of clear gloss (same process between each coat.
Always be sure paint can is well shaken and use a paper napkin to clean the spray nozzle between each pass.
If you are in a cold damp climate drying time can be as long as 8 hours.
There is a difference between dry to the touch and cured paint.
This is a mouse I did a while back.
This is 2 clear coats from being done
The completed project
Hope this helps
Jules
that the move right that my-dude holla Im go some 8125 Clear's on the way all in production with the clear keybord's haoll @ your boy I will send you free bodie's when my freight clear's
Do what it do my mangggggg
By: Wesley Clouden
Mobile Content Producer
First, I didn't understand a word of what 1nappiee007 said that's cool tough.
Second.
@ ZaJules ,
Like I said, my pic's were not that great
And I acted as you said. First layer very thin (very very thin) and so on.
I would say that no1 enemy is the dust. I have washed the parts and used fine sand paper. The spray that I used was dry in 10 minutes. And still, like I said, I hate dust
I already said that the job is not over yet. If I was going to apply a matte color, it would have been easy, but with gloss...it's different.
I wonder why did you said that "I can see by the pics that the surface was not prepped 100%" What is the picture that made you say that ?
I'm not arguing, i'm curious, because .... it's really shiny and smooth. Perhaps you meant the mouse, because there you are almost right. I don't know why, but it's surface is not as smooth as the wizard's ... mabe because I used more paint...anyhow, it still looks great, glossy.. Sorry that the pictures don't satisfy you, to be honest, I don't like them either.
The only thing that I was not so happy about is that I didn't focus enough on the small parts , like sides and ends ...anyhow, I will know better next time
Sorry for my english
And from mistakes we learn, what would life be without a little constructive criticism ? "Hey, I just killed a kid ! , -Whell, try to avoid it next time.It's ok dough "
any news about the paint job
anichillus said:
A couple of months ago I bought my first PPC , a Wizard... I bought it second hand, so the paint is a little...oh well, a little missing I want to repaint it so this is why I started this thread.
Did anybody else painted his ? If yes, please post pcitures and a "How to" would be nice.
-What kind of paint?
-Any problems or even better, how not to ruin your Wizard...
Before I bought paint and stuff...I tried a little in Photoshop so I make up my mind about collors and style.
Here are a few ...clues ...I still didn't made up my mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
made your mind up allready?
i personally liked the idea of a andy warhole kind of thing
excuse me ... andy warhole ? I don't understand...sorry . please explain
And I only painted the base...I could go red or white...or ...why not, green on the buttons
By the way, my wizard was just like the one in your avatar ... only ...used...allot
Anyway....I got to get some sleep ... i didn't sleep all nikgt...some darn project (( see you later

Casemmate Vroom - Anyone have? Thoughts?

Hey again!
I apologize if this has been [kind of] covered and I've read through some of the other threads about skins, but I wanted to know if anyone has gotten a Casemate Vroom for their N1 and your thoughts?
I got a silicone case/screen protector from ebay, mad cheap (like $4), and it does the job, but I want to get something that looks nice as well. The screen protector I have on this works well, surprisingly, since it was paired with this cheap case, but I dropped the phone straight on its face today (just a flat plop, but it was only 1-2 feet) and the case did its job, but got me rethinking.
With that said, I like the look of the Vroom as it adds a little flare to the phone as well as functionality, so I wanted to see peoples' thoughts. Thanks!
If anyone has this, please let me know. I am really considering buying one, but I wanted feedback if anyone has this.
I have one. It's an ok case, here are my pros and cons:
Pro's:
- It's a good looking case, when it's not all dusty and covered with stuff ( see cons ).
- It will protect the phone well in the event of a drop.
- It's easy to grip.
Con's:
- It's rubber, so it attracts every piece of dust, lint, whatever may be around.
- The top portion actually blocks the light sensors of the phone so if you use the auto adjusting backlight it's not going to work. Also it doesn't shut the screen off when it's close to your face while on the phone, then illuminate it when you pull the phone away from your face. I thought about cutting this top piece off with a razor blade, but I haven't done it yet because I don't feel like making the case look like crap...
I'm a car guy, so that's the main reason I bought the case. I figured it would be sweet to use when I go to shows/track. That's probably the only time I will use it though.
Hope that helps you.
Is it really covering the sensor? the picture looks like it isnt...
Anyways OP check this case out, this is what I got, it fits perfectly, looks great, and cheap! Definitely the best bang for the buck.
The seller is pretty good by the way, I got my order in 3days.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HARD-CASE-SILIC...ewItem&pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item5d28bb22ee
Also available in, blue, green and pink
I used this case for the first few weeks I owned the phone. I do really like the design of the case, however I found that after a few weeks it becomes loose due to the material used for it. Also, they have since released a new version in the past week that no longer covers the sensors, but in doing so it looks as if it reduces the area it covers on the phone. This worries me that due to the material used it may have issues with staying properly seated on the phone once the material has loosened. Another note on the material is that it is very grabby. By that I mean that if you put it into a pocket it is a little tough to take it back out. Other than that all of the proper areas are cut out and sit well.
I have since switched to their Gelli case which I now prefer. It is a harder material, and doesn't have the issue of stretching or loosening. It also shows off the phone more, as it is a clearer smoke style material.
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize that it covered the sensors (at least the pics on the website still show the old one). I'll take a look into the ones you've suggested. Thanks guys!
Yah , found out that the older version did cover the sensor. But the new ones don't.
mrmartin86 said:
Thanks for the feedback. I didn't realize that it covered the sensors (at least the pics on the website still show the old one). I'll take a look into the ones you've suggested. Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just ordered one of these, it's the coolest looking case by far but I never ordered because of the proximity sensor being covered, seems they have fixed that now as there is a new version on their website so we'll see how it is when it gets here. It's the first case I'm actually looking forward to getting for the Nexus, just don't seem to be many stylish cases for it like there are for the iPhone.

Has anyone tried removing the engraving?

Hi everyone,
I'm currently looking to buy a Nexus One, possibly a used one, and I recently saw one pretty cheaply but with the back engraved.
Now, I don't really mind that it is engraved seeing as the back would be covered with my hand most of the time and I wouldn't really see it.
However, I was wondering if anyone had tried to remove the engraving off a Nexus one. I read somewhere that it can be taken off with some cleaning kits. If not that, I may be able to get an engraving shop to engrave over it.
Has anyone had any experience with this, is it possible, or am I just crazy for thinking about it?
Thanks.
Put a sticker on it, or get a rubber/gel case to cover it.
you might be able to scratch off the top layer without any toolds but i doubt you can remove it completely without some type of kit maybe. the engraving i got is partially faded from normal wear and tear so the engraving isnt as defined but its still visible and readable.
I'd try taking a wash cloth and some toothpaste to it.
Toothpaste is a mild abrasive, but it might be enough to remove it?
If not, at least the back of your phone will have a fresh minty smell to it.
let me know what you do....I have an engraving on mine as well, I paid $220for an iphone 3g back in november or so, and traded the iphone for the n1 with engraving on it. I unlocked and jailbroke the iphone for a local carrier but only had 2g network....traded for n1...3g service is pretty solid! loving the n1, engraving on isnt bad just dont care for it
You'll need something a bit more powerful than toothpaste to get rid of laser etching. Basically, you'd have to drill out the surrounding material so that it's just a big blank spot on the back of the phone. This is probably a lot more work, and would require a lot more skill with machinery, than you're willing to put in.
My recommendations:
1) A Case
2) Legally change your name to whatever one is on the phone. If it's a girl's name, optional sex change operation.
ATnTdude said:
2) Legally change your name to whatever one is on the phone. If it's a girl's name, optional sex change operation.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is clearly the right answer.
I'm not sure how's the engraving material is like. But I have seen some people try to remove the "T-Mobile" or "Sprint" engraving on the front with sugar cane. Look on youtube and see for yourself. It leaves no scratch for the phone obviously.
I've been trying to find out if there's such a thing as touch-up paint for the N1's unibody. If it exists, or you can find something similar, you could always paint over it? The "engraving" is laser-etched, so it's only a few hundredths of a millimeter thick...meaning it would be covered completely with any layer of paint, which are easily measurable in tenths of millimeters.
Thanks for the answers. I actually found another Nexus one being sold for cheaper which didn't have engraving.
No need for a name/sex change now as that was the only feasible option
I recently bought my N1 on eBay, and it came with engraving. It's not a must-remove since it's just "Simmetry Wireless" instead of a person's name or worse.
Any good stickers for covering it up? Android/Google related?
lets just say i tried paint thinner/remover, didnt help one bit
EdwardUong said:
I'm not sure how's the engraving material is like. But I have seen some people try to remove the "T-Mobile" or "Sprint" engraving on the front with sugar cane. Look on youtube and see for yourself. It leaves no scratch for the phone obviously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's silk-screened paint, not an engraving. If you want to remove the Google and HTC markings from the back, it will probably work.
e4604 said:
lets just say i tried paint thinner/remover, didnt help one bit
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Click to collapse
I don't think the metal band, where the engraving is located, is painted. I'm pretty sure it's just "naked" anodized aluminum. As such, paint thinner (either enamel or lacquer) won't work. Oven cleaner probably would deoxidize it, which would remove the etching. It would also remove the entire outer layer of the metal body and melt just about anything else (plastic, electronics, YOU) leaving a clean (as in soda can silver) aluminum frame. You could also get exotic with stuff like nitric acid, but I really don't recommend any of this unless you've done it before. And if you've done it before, you probably wouldn't be asking about it here.
As another FYI, there's several types of paint acrylic (rarely used in electronics), enamel, and lacquer (most common). A thinner for one (e.g. rubbing alcohol will dissolve acrylic, but do nothing to enamel or lacquer) will not work on the others. Lacquer is the "hottest," meaning that it and (especially) it's thinning/stripping agents have a decent chance of eating into whatever surface you're applying it to. So if you really have to strip the paint off your phone, take the damn thing apart before you try.
Seriously, just get a case, a new phone, or do the whole sex change thing I mentioned before.
ATnTdude said:
Seriously, just get a case, a new phone, or do the whole sex change thing I mentioned before.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LMAO I love this!

Anyone interested in custom paint jobs?

When i go back to school I'm planning on trying out some custom paint jobs for my nexus 7's back cover. I'm an industrial design student so I've worked extensively with HVLP paint guns priming/painting/clearcoating projects etc.
First i'm going to attempt to change the back cover to a simple white like the nexus 7's from google i/o seeing how it reacts with the primer and paint I'm using. If that works well I might try to smooth the back cover out and experiment with vinyl cutouts/stencils. If anyone has any interesting ideas they'd like me to try/attempt feel free to post and if they turn out well I'd be willing to paint a some xda members back covers
I'll provide updates on the projects in the coming weeks as I head back to school and have access to the studio again.
Would be cool if you can do vid clips or photos to detail the process. I think many here would be interested, including yours truly.
e.mote said:
Would be cool if you can do vid clips or photos to detail the process. I think many here would be interested, including yours truly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will defiantly detail the process. For anyone interested in doing this here are the basics (pics coming once I get back to school):
I'm basically going to be using the same process i use on my projects. So if anyone is planning on attempting this they can decide, pending whether they have access to these materials/willing to put in the time. This process will work on pretty much anything you want to durably paint if you can find a primer for a material then you can paint it.
Here's a typical outline of what I do for a project in these case I'll apply the instructions for the Nexus 7 cover.
They start out with a dense shaping foam that is roughly shaped to design (not applicable here since the back cover is our "shape")
Create a solid stand for the back cover, I usually use left over scrap wood and mount with some hot glue or double sided masking tape
Apply layer of primer this creates uniform color/texture. This process may be skipped depending on how the cover reacts. I'm going to try and use acetone to strip off the waxy surface on the back cover. If this works depending on the new "raw" surface i will apply a thin coat of PCL Poly Primer thinned out with acetone (if this is applied too thick it may fill in the divots on the back which is one of the reasons i may skip it)
Pending whether or not the primer is necessary it may have to be smoothed with high grit sand paper (400-1000 wet sanding is not necessary)
Application of Automotive Basecoat (NOT SINGLE STAGE PAINT) Paint via HVLP gun or Air Brush an air compressor is necessary. If paint booth is accesible use this to prevent dust on paint job
Allow paint to dry look for paint imperfections, something known as orange peel is common where paint appears rough and textured like an orange. If any imperfections are seen wet sand with 1000 grit sand paper.
After paint is completed clear coat will be applied (must be in a dust free area or spray booth you don't want dust trapped between the paint and clear coat). I'm going to us a flat clear coat because I want to maintain the softer "leather" like appearance. Future paint jobs I may use a glossy clearcoat.
After clear coat dries you will have a durable back cover and a one of a kind nexus 7
I know these directions may seem a little over the top for novice "craftsmen" but this is what is necessary for a quality/durable paint job. I may try to find some rattle can primers and paints for a simpler paint job but i suspect this will not create a durable/quality job.
Materials:
For a quality/ "semi professional" job:
Acetone (nail polish remover) - steal it from your mom or girlfriend or go to home depot and buy a big metal tin
HVLP Gun - You cant get the cheapest of the cheap Amazon has these for sub $20 (may need a regulator if your air compressor doesn't have one)
Air Compressor
Respirator or dust mask
Materials to build a stand
Automotive Basecoat - you can find these at pepboys or other automotive shops they may have a limited assortment I go to a place called FinishMasters they can help you with all your questions and are priced reasonably
Automotive Clearcoat
TIME - applying the primer/paint/clearcoat would take literally less than 5 minutes its drying time that will take a while. intotal this process could probably be done withint 2-3 days
Estimated total $100
this may seem like a large upfront cost but as I mentioned with these materials and method you could paint virtually anything - cars, headphones, guitars, anything you can easily take apart and prime is paintable and in my opinion its a solid skill to learn
Poor Man's method:
Acetone
Spraycan Primer Krylon/Rustoleum
Spray Paint
Clear Coat
Estimated Cost $30
This is risky method for a few resons 1) all brands of products should be the same otherwise there may be strange chemical reactions 2) the benefit of an hvlp gun is you can control an even play of paint. With spray cans the only control you have is the pressure you put on the cans nozzle 3) The quality and "eveness" of paint will not be as good
If anyone is interested in getting theres painted (after I figure out all the ins and outs with my own of course) feel free to PM me I should have mine completed by the end of august(pics will be provided asap) and it will probably be cheaper than going out and buying a bunch of primer and paint spray cans.
Stay Classy XDA I'll update in a few weeks when it is finished
Admittedly a plain idea but I've always thought red would be a good color for a tablet. Also obligatory android green, I'd love that
Sent from my SGS2
Very nice thread. I can't wait to see some results. I would LOVE to try this out, but I'm not ready to do this I don't think lol. I'll keep this thread ready to load.
I've done some similar projects with smart phones and dumb phones in the past, these instructions are pretty much spot on. The only thing would add is that I would have a small moisture filter between your air hose and the paint gun. This will catch moisture that gets past the big water trap coming off your compressor before the air hose, and the moisture that forms internally in the hose.
This plastic and primer needs to be as efficient as possible as the OP stated to allow the most bonding with the least material filling the textured areas. This isn't something the OP missed, he couldn't include all 10000 lil things like this for every environment but I felt it was something that will be needed by people especially who paint in just a regular shop or garage as opposed to a climate and humidity controlled paint booth type environment.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
---------- Post added at 07:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:01 AM ----------
F34RDR01D said:
Very nice thread. I can't wait to see some results. I would LOVE to try this out, but I'm not ready to do this I don't think lol. I'll keep this thread ready to load.
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You can always just buy a couple back covers off eBay when they become available and practice. As long as someone is careful it can be done fine with a rattle can. The OP stressed the prep for a reason and the acetone, the quality in the finished product will depend more on prep than the final coats in my opinion, and a few practice covers will let you get used to the material.
Become zen, one with the plastic, paint with your soul lol
Sent from my Nexus 7 using xda premium
Lol, I actually went straight to ebay to see if there were any spare back covers on sale already.
I wonder if Google would sell them directly if you call their customer service? Probably not until their inventory settles down right?
I'm not sure why, but a light blue could look interesting if the right shade.
But I'd love a white backing like the I/O Nexus 7s
I would take a bright obnoxious neon green back cover. Green's my favorite color haha.
Or maybe a more muted mint green would be nice.. mm
I'd pay (hopefully not more than $30? For $15 or less I wouldnt even hesitate) and send my cover off to you if you end up doing this.
Nippero said:
Lol, I actually went straight to ebay to see if there were any spare back covers on sale already.
I wonder if Google would sell them directly if you call their customer service? Probably not until their inventory settles down right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would think you could order it as a part from ASUS... Google is not making the tablet, ASUS is. I don't think they have set this up yet though.
Definitely interested in this if you decide to do this. Dont think it will work out very well until replacement back covers become available though
Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
Great idea OP. Have done a lot of rattle can work on car parts so i'm familar with the prepping process, hadnt really thought about doing the Nexus7 back cover. As previous poster said, best to wait until you can get a spare or two in case you make a mess of it. I would definitely buy a spare back cover if I saw one at a half decent price (in UK).
---------- Post added at 11:53 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:48 AM ----------
:good:
dangeroid said:
Great idea OP. Have done a lot of rattle can work on car parts so i'm familar with the prepping process, hadnt really thought about doing the Nexus7 back cover. As previous poster said, best to wait until you can get a spare or two in case you make a mess of it. I would definitely buy a spare back cover if I saw one at a half decent price (in UK).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh and I'm thinking bright Android green too. Or red. :good:
krelvinaz said:
I would think you could order it as a part from ASUS... Google is not making the tablet, ASUS is. I don't think they have set this up yet though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Whoops good point, forgot about that for a moment lol.
And yea considering most places cant even keep the N7 stocked right now, I doubt ASUS would have the time to sell spare parts. For now...
I have a white unit from I/O that I would love to get a new paint job. The stock finish absorbed stains and mine is all messed up now.
Also, because of this I looked into replacement back covers and they seem downright impossible to find.
Sent from my HTC One X using xda premium
check this out
I was looking around for custom paint jobs on phones to see if people are interested in my work this is my phone just painted few days ago: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=41057186#post41057186 you guys can see some of my work at https://www.facebook.com/TabDesignDivision?ref=tn_tnmn
I'd totally order custom back covers.
Sent from my Motorola XPRT
I m thinking about creating an add on ebay if you are interested, I will give updates about it or we can do it through here, just send me
the cover

Note 4 poor design quality deeper perspective

Hi,
I read few threads about build quality of the Samsung Note 4 but mostly I fount speculations and opinions not supported with facts. I am mechanical engineer and I like to think that I know few thinks about processes that are being used in modern industry.
I would like to focus on metal finish which was a decision maker to upgrade from Note 3.
When I first received my new Note 4, first think I did was not turning it on, but inspecting quality of the new body. After few minutes I already knew that there will be problems. I wasn't mistaken...
Lets sort one think up, because there was a big discussion about it in previous threads. Note 4 is not made out of metal. Main body of the smartphone is made purely out of plastic. To better understand it, remove back cover and remove S-pen. This Grayish plastic you see everywhere is actually the main frame of the smartphone. Visible metal sides of the phone as well, are plastic. Metal finish is only metallic coating. There are few processes that allow to cover plastic with metal and most generally it is called metallization. You may ask - so what? Important that it is looking and feeling good... I would completely agree with you if not for the fact that coating is ridiculously thin. I am very careful with my Note 4, but I don't use any covers and additional protection for device. After only few months after using my smartphone I saw first negative signs such as flaking off black metallic paint where the USB receptacle is. Once it stars it gets only worse. later on you have to be even more careful for flaking will continue even when you scratch it lightly with the nail. I would like to point as well, that under this black metallic paint there is plastic. If you expected metal you will be disappointed. Actual silver chamfers are a little bit thicker - around 0,2+-0,05mm. I am not a fan of Iphone but I appreciate real metal body. It bothers me when I see price of the device. I would expect to see real premium device instead of constant covering up with better materials plastic "Samsung madness". Don't think than I am a Samsung hater, because its completely opposite. I didn't change brand since Samsung Galaxy S, and I had all smartphones from Note series.
After Note 3 I'm disappointed by note 4. At least N3 wasn't pretending anything. Not only from build quality newest note is not a good successor of good old note 3 but from software point of view as well but that is topic for other thread.
I covered only one aspect of poor quality of the phone. There are more but to reduce the length of the post I wont describe them. I will mention only at the end that if you are looking for robust made phone this is not what you should look for. I have a feeling that device is made like this to look like **** after warranty period ends.
Peace
Rbn
The Note 4 is metal, here is a metal test of the frame:
https://youtu.be/d-7Yw_XXviI
Go spew your nonsense somewhere else.
EDIT:
The black sides of my Note 4 are fine, no flacking, the USB and area surrounding it are also still fine. I have had my Note 4 since launch (got it 2days early). Used it for 8months with no cover, only recently put a cover as I wanted it to fee thicker and more substantial in hand and to protect it as I do drop it a lot.
Is he touching on the metallic coated chamfer or the actual side of the phone?
POLO_i780 said:
The Note 4 is metal, here is a metal test of the frame:
Go spew your nonsense somewhere else.
EDIT:
The black sides of my Note 4 are fine, no flacking, the USB and area surrounding it are also still fine. I have had my Note 4 since launch (got it 2days early). Used it for 8months with no cover, only recently put a cover as I wanted it to fee thicker and more substantial in hand and to protect it as I do drop it a lot.
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Click to collapse
Are you serious with this youtube clip, or it is a joke? I am not sure... He is touching 3cm apart of each other on metallic chamfer which I already said is metallic (if you would read carefully) thickens of the metal he check resistance of i approximately 0,2mm as I as well said before. if he would touch on left and right side there would be no conduction because chamfer are separated in exactly 4 individual points.
Your comment has no sens what so ever apart of some strange attitude.
mark0326 said:
Is he touching on the metallic coated chamfer or the actual side of the phone?
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He touched both, 1st the chamfered side and then the side.
He did the video in response to another person who was claiming the Note 4 isn't metal, when in actual fact it is.
POLO_i780 said:
He touched both, 1st the chamfered side and then the side.
He did the video in response to another person who was claiming the Note 4 isn't metal, when in actual fact it is.
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I see words them self do not convince you so pictures will have to (self made).
Few words of commentary if you do not understand. picture ***23 show where the coating ends (probably for antenna connection reasons).
Picture ***43 shows that in fact there is a conductivity, therefore metallic surface (like on youtube video you posted)
On picture ***53 you can clearly see that there is infinite resistance = no metallic connection
If you still do not believe on the picture ***22 you can see that housing is in fact non conductive = non metallic
Stop your nonsense argument please.
Rubenqben said:
I see words them self do not convince you so pictures will have to (self made).
Few words of commentary if you do not understand. picture ***23 show where the coating ends (probably for antenna connection reasons).
Picture ***43 shows that in fact there is a conductivity, therefore metallic surface (like on youtube video you posted)
On picture ***53 you can clearly see that there is infinite resistance = no metallic connection
If you still do not believe on the picture ***22 you can see that housing is in fact non conductive = non metallic
Stop your nonsense argument please.
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All you have proved is that there are parts of the frame that are not metal e.g. the USB area, where the antennas are and may I add where the 3.5mm jack is, this is party to be expected as even with my iPad these areas in particular will have some sort of plastic within.
The frame is mostly metal. Its winter down here and the frame gets icy cold to the touch vs. the back cover plastic and front glass.
You haven't really made any point, the Note 4 at the end of the day is a well built premium phone, in my experience, Samsung have ensured the areas that shouldn't be metal aren't you can actually see them e.g. around USB port is a tiny bump, same with where the antennas are.
People are not satisfied with anything nowadays...
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
lordoftheriffs said:
People are not satisfied with anything nowadays...
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
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Indeed.
I can't quite believe you guys are fighting over a mostly plastic phone. I agree with the first poster and what he has posted makes sense. I've also taken my note 4 apart and you can clearly tell it is mostly plastic with the exception being the coated chamfer which is coated with metal then painted and polished, as well as the screws. Ignoring the logic board which contains many elements your left with the screen and glass covering. To be short the phone is mostly plastic and not mostly metal like the users are trying to argue.
Plastic is very inefficient at blocking radio signals, I'm happy.
If it was all metal, someone would say that it is very heavy and signal is poor. If it was glass, people would say it is fragile and a fingerprint magnet. I believe our phone is an ideal blend of premium and other features. I personally love the faux leather back, it is much more robust than a real leathet or gloss plastic.
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
lordoftheriffs said:
If it was all metal, someone would say that it is very heavy and signal is poor. If it was glass, people would say it is fragile and a fingerprint magnet. I believe our phone is an ideal blend of premium and other features. I personally love the faux leather back, it is much more robust than a real leathet or gloss plastic.
Sent from my Note 4 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
Exactly. This phone is very well built and blend of materials very well thought-out.
The faux leather is brilliant, mine still looks as good as new since launch, while many LG G4 Leather Back owners already have wear and tear within weeks of owning the phone.
While I do think that this is very well designed phone, op is right in his claim that there's not a lot of metal for someone who expected at least outer frame to be aluminum. He is right that under black metallic Paint is only white plastic.
Actually it is amazing how well they have managed to fuse aluminum chamfer, and only that (this is best visible when taking pen out and looking at the cross section). The supposed antenna breaks, on top and bottom, are purely for decoration, and to fool the users into thinking that sections are solid metal and evocative of iPhone of yesteryear that had those cutouts for a reason.
Altogether, there's probably not much more than 5 grams of aluminum on the whole frame. If even that much?
Im just glad that the paint finish on this phone is much more durable than s4 and s5, where even sweat would cause peeling of the fake chrome coating,provided you don't drop phone (it is true that once metallic paints start peeling on certain section, the process accelerates.
All that said, I do agree with polo_i780 last post absolutely.
Note 4 ?
To the op, are you sure your note 4 is not a fake? I mean no disrespect just that mine has been dropped and such without a case, has lots of scratches all around and it doesn't flake as you say. I just tried scratching it with my nails and.... nothing.
If it does indeed have an insanely thin coating then no way would the frame get icy cold as the other poster said (mine does this).
My note 3 never felt like this. Also you're wrong the note 3 did pretend to be something. A leather notebook with the rear cover. But I actually preferred that cover instead of this one lol.
Either way no company is going to please everyone.
I kind of agree with the original poster. There's something "missing" in build quality on the N4, it just doesn't feel as premium as the metal flagships or even the S6. I think it's almost a half and half like Samsung were half way through redesigning their handsets the N4 is the result. I'm not saying it feels cheap or it isn't a nice design, I just don't think it feels like a full premium design.
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
Disagree. This phone is designed very well. I don't care for metal.
The OP's analysis perfectly describes the very well known problem of the N4's "metal" sides getting very scratched up due solely to the use of certain cases. If you've just recently picked up an N4, search the forum for "scratched metal" and you'll see no shortage of threads where the issue is mentioned (my search for topics with those terms from the main page of the N4 forum yielded 84 results).
@Rubenqben if the edges have become annoyingly scratched, there's a DIY fix that also protects the edges from future damage involving metal polish. Very detailed instructions w/ pics can be found via search, IIRC there have been a few guides in the "General" subforum. I've done this to my device that's now about 7 months old and the edges are even shinier than they were before removing the plastic from the phone (it should be noted that using metal polish on the edges lightens the metal color a few "shades", likely dependent on the specific product that you use... not in a bad way IMO, I actually think that mine looks better with the "Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream" from Amazon).
Now should it be necessary to use potentially damaging chemicals on a $$$ phone so that the edges don't get scratched up by a protective case?
I'm curious what other build quality issues you've discovered that were alluded to in the OP? I've been happy with my N4 overall, but I've definitely encountered some issues that seem like they can only be traced back to hardware design flaws... I'm no engineer though so I'm interested in your other findings :good:
My note 4 is fine its metal and the paint doesnt chip so did you buy a knock off phone.
Sent from my SM-N910V using XDA Free mobile app
jazzmachine said:
the op's analysis perfectly describes the very well known problem of the n4's "metal" sides getting very scratched up due solely to the use of certain cases. If you've just recently picked up an n4, search the forum for "scratched metal" and you'll see no shortage of threads where the issue is mentioned (my search for topics with those terms from the main page of the n4 forum yielded 84 results).
@rubenqben if the edges have become annoyingly scratched, there's a diy fix that also protects the edges from future damage involving metal polish. Very detailed instructions w/ pics can be found via search, iirc there have been a few guides in the "general" subforum.
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I couldn't agree more. I had a Note 3 and with the exact care and usage it was perfectly fine whereas my Note 4 has scratches on the metal sides! Yes the metal sides looks better but they also loves to be scratched, without even trying to, just by changing covers and cases! Even the Samsung Protective cover wasn't able to prevent the scratches! With S6 Samsung has hardened/improved the metal so hopefully Note 5 will not have any metal issues like Note 4. Btw, can you share the exact guide you tested and confirmed it works? Thank you!

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