Database Develop

How Rain Proof Is The Nexus One?

I'm wondering if I could fit a Brodit holder to my motorbike and mount my N1 on it?
Any thoughts?
If it rained, would my N1 be in danger? It would be real easy for me to pull over, remove it and put it in my pocket. What danger would there be to the Brodit holder, would I need a little cap to go over the 'socket'?

You should be good as long as you tuck it up under the windscreen, maybe right above the gauges. Shouldn't get wet at all right there while riding and very very little while sitting still for those brief moments. What kind of motorbike? i was thinking Sportsbike but on a tourer it should still be ok. Let me know what you come up with because i was looking to do something of the same.

Yeah, I have a tourer, Honda Varadero. I'm not sure there would be space under the screen... Hmm. Maybe I'll get a pic of the dash area tomorrow and we can brain storm.
Brodit do these -
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But they're £37!
Then you attach this to it -
But that's another £35!
That would have to be pretty near the handle bars, which wouldn't be very well covered by the screen when stationary.
I have heard of people doing this though and just putting a sandwich bag over it if rain starts...

A few drops of rain won't harm it, just make sure you put it away if it starts pouring I've used my nexus in the rain before and haven't had any problems

Nice piece, for sure get a shot of the dash area and lets see what we can come up with. I'll start messing with it on my 750 to see if i can come up with something here. I would definaltly want it behind the screen some kind of way. I wouldn't want a bug or rock smacking it at 100k or more ya know.

Right, here's the picture. On the right is the 'glove box' that I'm hoping to get a cig lighter wired into, so even if I don't get it mounted, I can charge my N1 from it.
The mount on the middle left is for my Zumo SatNav, but of course, if I get a decent option for my N1, I can do away with that.
I guess, in theory, there's some decent real estate just to the left of the speedo (the left dial) but it curves away, so I would need a clever way to mount it facing back inwards slightly.
Given that I don't mind paying £30+ for a Brodit holder, which I assume could be wired neatly, direct to the battery, that will screw onto pretty much any flat surface that will hold a screw...
Ideas?
**EDIT** Here's a thought. The Brodit holder is mounted on a ball joint pivot thingy... which means I could attach it direct to the facia and just twist it back in? How firm is that plastic do you think though, maybe a rivet gun would be best instead of screws?

[Q] [HELP] Speaker cable port DETACHED

Hi forum.
I have a friend's captivate that had this "maraca" sound, I disassembled it and it turned out that the port that connects the speaker's flex cable fell off. Is there a way to re-solder it back? And if so, wouldn't it melt the plastic from the port itself?
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This is not the actual board's pic, it's just a pic I found.

Hard to say without a picture of the damage.
In general if just the soldered joints became detached from the pcb and the tips and the cable are ok, with decent soldering skill, yes they can be resoldered.
If the cable is ripped in any way and maybe a portion of the cable is still soldered to the pcb, you're going to have a bad time.

Thanks for the reply. The port connects to the board with the joints you mentioned. There is no cable damage, the port just fell off. I can see the joints with a magnifying glass, but it looks difficult to solder with just an iron and the mag glass.
Sent from my PG86100 using xda premium

I can there are 6 joints to connect, i also see that there are 2 more on the left side, but those are very difficult since they are below the port.

I was confused thinking the cable was directly soldered on with the tips, but it's the cable port. OK. In your pic of the board I only see 6 solderable points on the PCB I don't see an extra two on the side, so it doesn't look like you need to worry about the extra two.
It does look like it would be a challenge to solder, but their may be room to scoot the connector up a bit so you're just leading a thin bridge of solder from the connector to the joint allowing maximum work space.
There are tricks that would make this easier to someone who is pretty accomplished as this stuff (pre-creating the bridges, etc..)
Pretty sure someone like MobileTechVideos could repair this for you.

I think I'm better off buying the board itself ( thank you Samsung for making these things apart from each other). Thanks for the tips!

Decent car dock from Platinum case/ Evo 3D car dock...

I could not find anything close to what I wanted, so I took some spare parts and made one.
I have the Best Buy Platinum case with holster and an old HTC Evo 3D car dock.
1. Heat and mold the holster so that the phone can be put in it screen facing out. Pretty simple using a kitchen torch and a spoon. Looking at it you would be hard pressed to see it was changed, but now the phone will fit either face in or out (we need it to face out for this purpose).
2. Remove the Evo 3D holster from the Evo 3D car dock. Simple enough, its just clipped on.
3. Remove the rotating/hinged micro USB plug from the Evo 3D car dock because it needs to be turned around the opposite direction of what it is. This took just a little effort as the actual hinged piece needed to be modified slightly and then the circuit board with the plug on it needed to be hot glued back in to the hinged piece. Put it back and and make sure it still swivels/rotates GOOD TO GO.
4. Now put the SGN2 in to the Platinum case that we earlier modified and "plug it in" to see where the holster and car dock need to be joined. I used a single short fat screw and JB Weld to attach the SGN2 holster and the EVO 3D car dock. I used the 5 minute set stuff, so it needed to be put in the correct position quickly. This stuff really is set in 5 minutes!
I also had to slightly modify the upper retaining hinged clip on the SGN2 holster because of the phone being reversed. The phone is held in VERY snuggly. It plugs in the the micro USB quickly and correctly every time. I added an NFC chip on the inside of the holster to launch my Car Home Ultra application.
Here are a couple pictures. I personally think Samsung would make a killing by doing this. But in the end, this cost me nothing beyond what I had previously spent.
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How To: convert a Galaxy S3 dock to fit the Nexus 7

Hi guys!
Last night I decided to mod my Galaxy S3 dock (a phone I no longer have) to accept the Nexus 7! Both devices have the usb micro on the bottom center of the device, but the plug is upside down the Nexus 7!
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Here's a close up of the dock's connector. The goal will be to rotate this 180 degrees!
And the Nexus 7's connector (Top = front)
To begin: With the dock closed, flip it over and peel off the rubber bottom to reveal 7 screws. Take them all out.
Next, starting from the side of the rock, use a tiny regular screwdriver to split the top and bottom halves apart. There are clips holding it shut so some force is required.
Cool! The dock is now open. We'll focus on the top half - the counterweight on the bottom half IS enough to keep the Nexus 7 upright.
This is where the ribbon cable goes to the top side of the dock, and into the connecter. Doesn't look like we can loosen it from here - so we'll have to dig in.
On the left and right there are 2 tiny screws and 1 tiny spring on each side.
These springs are tiny! Don't lose these! The easiest way to get them off is to use a needle to pull from within the loop at the top end.
By removing these springs and screws we can remove this component - remember to unclip the ribbon cable from the PCB!
There's a sprig loaded cover on the top. Pry it off from either end. Be careful, I cut my finger nicely doing this.
NICE! We can now see the screws holding in the USB connector!
Once you remove the connector, simply rotate it and plastic mount 180 degrees and screw it back in. Remember to completely remove the ribbon cable from the large plastic piece, it rotates as well. From here, it's as simple as following the steps in the reverse order to reassemble the dock.
IMPORTANT: Remember to put the ribbon cable back in it's socket on the PCB in the same orientation it originally was. This means the cable will have a twist in it when you're done.
Unfortunately the Audio out on the back of the dock does not work with the Nexus 7. Perhaps this could be solved though software? Charging, of course, does work.
Enjoy!

would like to see this project, but those pics are massive brah! any chance you could imageshack-them and resize for forum?

Yeah, sorry about the large pics. I thought the forum would scale them down until they're clicked. I'll try to make an edit tonight.

Teardown

Here's a teardown of the TF701. Basically it's dead simple.
Remove 2 tiny screws. One in each slot for docking.
Pry apart plastic front and aluminium back shell. The only thing holding these together are plastic clips around the edge. And black magic.
Disconnect two cables from screen.
The size of the PCB is tiny. The front is glass, and seperating it from the back can ultimately fracture the LCD or both. There is one warranty void sticker inside.
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Thanks for this. Did you do this yourself, or are these pictures from elsewhere?
Interesting that the screen doesn't use Gorilla Glass, as there were some that claimed that it did.
Would it be possible to replace the battery if it became necessary to do so in the future, do you think?

it is glass. maybe gorilla glass, but at least it's scratch resistant.

lpdunwell said:
These are my pictures.
It is no gorilla glass. The amount of flex it took to seperate from the back frame would have shattered any glass.
The battey (actually batteries, there are two, with the usb flex cable passing through the middle) can be replaced, but will be a b**** to find anywhere.
EDIT: I'm not that sure about the battery. I recall the usb flex cable being embedded in between what seemed two batteries. but looking at the connector on my picture in the first post, it looks like there are three cells. Now that could mean there's one large cell at the bottom and two slightly-smaller-than-half ones on top of that. That would be sick.
Will check tomorrow, as I don't feel like leaving the bed again todayˆˆ
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not forget gorilla glass can flex quite a bit and it looks like plastic by that way but it isn't but it can break when in fabrication too much tension stayed in the glass.
But correct fabricated gorilla 2 or 3 can flex quite a bit.
Look here: http://www.tomshardware.com/news/corning-gorilla-glass-test-shatter,14497.html
Sent from my superfast Asus Infinity TF701with Dock

moar pictures
I made a whole series of pictures today, which will be added very soon.
there are a lot of awesome close-ups.