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Yes, I already broke my phone. Go ahead, grin and chuckle..now that you've gotten it out of your system, anyone want to offer a little guidance? Never disassembled a newer cellphone before. New glass is ordered and has been shipped, just waiting for it to arrive. I'm hoping the process is fairly simple. I do have a specialized set of screwdrivers with all the hard-to-find bits, so that's not a problem ..it even has the tiny blackberry bit.. but from what I can see HTC uses standard micro Philips screws. Yay for standard formats!
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
If this phone is anything like hd2 you're gunna want the flat pry tools they sell (search hd2 screen replacement tools). Their not needed but a nice handy thingy to have, other wise you might crack your LCD from flexing it too much.
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using XDA App
I wont grin and chuckle too much, I broke my Atrix after 4 days.
The Vivid screen seems very fragile. 2 of my coworkers have broken theirs within a few weeks of having them. Small drops from waist distance. Its too bad because I have seen the current Samsung models dropped from 6 feet face first and survive
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
Yeah, I've cracked mine as well. If you google HTC raider teardown on YouTube.. There's a vid.... Butttt, it's not in English and it's a teardown not a screen replacement tutorial.
It seems as thought HTC has been using reeeeally thin glass in their devices.
Whered you get the glass? It'd be very thoughtful of you to do a tutorial as you do it. I really want to replacement mine but if you remove one on the screws by the battery it voids your warranty
Send it to HTC then? You get a 1 year warranty when you buy the phone.
Honestly, I think Corning had another incident of releasing faulty glass. I've dropped mine numerous times, from pretty high up and I don't have a single scratch on my phone.
travisxcore said:
Send it to HTC then? You get a 1 year warranty when you buy the phone.
Honestly, I think Corning had another incident of releasing faulty glass. I've dropped mine numerous times, from pretty high up and I don't have a single scratch on my phone.
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How much is it for them to fix it?
I have no idea. Shoot them an email (not Support Inquiry, youre gonna wanna send it to Repair Inquiry) and they should be able to tell you. Make sure you fill out the S/N box out now, or their just gonna send you an email back asking for it.
travisxcore said:
I have no idea. Shoot them an email (not Support Inquiry, youre gonna wanna send it to Repair Inquiry) and they should be able to tell you. Make sure you fill out the S/N box out now, or their just gonna send you an email back asking for it.
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I'll do that right now. Thanks alot
(sorry to hijack the thread lol)
They use a double sided tape that hopefully comes with your replacement screen , I tried to replace a water damaged screen and it really wasn't a fun process
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using xda premium
It didn't fall very far..
Yeah when mine fell I had it in a shirt pocket, bent over to pick something up and it slid out, fell about a foot and a half..directly onto the search button corner on ceramic tile. Crunch. I ordered a new panel from tmart.com .. I got a confirmation email back on the 4th saying its been shipped via usps.. should be here soon. I hope it comes with everything I need - cost me about $50.00 with the shipping and everything. I paid the extra 3 bucks for insurance lol..
bproulx said:
Yeah when mine fell I had it in a shirt pocket, bent over to pick something up and it slid out, fell about a foot and a half..directly onto the search button corner on ceramic tile. Crunch. I ordered a new panel from tmart.com .. I got a confirmation email back on the 4th saying its been shipped via usps.. should be here soon. I hope it comes with everything I need - cost me about $50.00 with the shipping and everything. I paid the extra 3 bucks for insurance lol..
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So, how was the installation process? And did it come with the adhesive? I'm going to buy it from that site as well
And then it was fixed..! FTW!
Ok sorry for the delay getting back to you guys.. been frantically waiting for the screen to clear US customs (ugh) and arrive, which it finally did today. I was able to get my hands on it at about 3 this afternoon, but I wasn't able to actually look at it until about an hour ago..
So.. I open the package, big grin on my face..and the first thing I notice is that the glass is AT&T branded. Funny, considering I'm in Canada and using Rogers..but hey a digitizer by any other name...and all that. So! I open the bag that my "tools" came in.. There are 2 blue plastic tools, one a prying tool and one looked a lot like a guitar pick. Cool. There are also 2 screwdrivers included, and I'm momentarily excited, until I realize they're just tiny torqx bits. The Raider uses TINY philips head screws, so those were useless. I put them into my tiny tool set..for later consideration.
Back to the screen. Looks like it the real deal, so I watch half of the teardown vid on youtube.. As mentioned in an earlier post it isn't an english-language vid so aside from seeing the locations of the screws and the methods of levering off the internal components, there's no exchange of information going on. I would like to mention however that the video kind of glazes over the locations and removal processes for some sensitive connections, so having only experienced laptop repairs personally.. I was in fairly uncomfortable and unfamiliar territory - but I was determined.
I tried several ways at getting the phone down to its base components, and finally succeeded in locating the panel's ribbon connector interface on one of the phone's circuit boards. I had to remove the back of the phone, pull the batt, sim and sd, and pull the 4 main screws that lock the housing down onto the phone.. From there its a matter of levering off the black plastic shell and whats underneath is a whole lot of tech in a very tight space. There were 3 or 4 wires I had to disconnect, about 15 tiny screws in 3 different lengths, and then when all was said and done I had to pry the busted panel off using the supplied blue lever tool (pretty handy, actually.) and then lift the lcd away from the metal housing enough to slide the old connector out and the new one through.. This was a very tricky process - I drink way too much coffee to hold completely steady for long..lol.. Finally got it all through, but by this time I had smudged the inside of both glass surfaces pretty badly and it took some serious mechanical dexterity to hold the surfaces and wipe them down without wrecking any of the flapping, loose circuit boards, screens, etc.. it was a frightening experience.. I won't lie.. I definitely feared the worst possible outcome given my limited experience.
So.. the panel's ribbon cable is inserted, the white clip back down securing it.. I manage after several attempts to remember how to put the puzzle all back together, and after about 45 minutes of messing with it I had a visually complete phone again. I hit power, and miracle of miracles the HTC logo flashes on the screen.. I'm hopeful..
The phone boots up, looks great (aside from a few smudges I missed on the inside..grr) so I start touching the screen and here's where we have the first problem..lol.. its recognizing that I'm touching the screen..but not really accurately.. it seems to be that there are dead areas.. So now I'm thinking I broke something..lol..
Smoke break.
Took it all apart again, forgot to clean the smudges, removed and re-seated all the connections, and about 15 minutes later I had it back together again. I booted it up and waited.
Success!! It sees where I'm touching accurately now - I think the ribbon must have moved while I was putting it back together, I was shifting things a lot as I was trying to figure it all out, so I must have stressed the cable enough to move it slightly in the slot.. that, or I didn't have it all the way in / straight the first time I did it. Either way, it works fine now. I was successful on the 2nd attempt, and now the only difference is that this glass feels..rougher? less smooth? not sure how to describe it.. it feels different, anyway.. and the at&t logo of course. Aside from that, you'd never know it was in pieces an hour ago..lol.
Would I do this again? ..I hope I don't have to. Its not impossible, but man, if you're going to try this BE SUPER CAREFUL!! lol..
edit: and no - it didn't come with the double sided tape, but it seems to be staying without having to replace it.. it wasn't too hard to remove it from the panel, but getting it back on straight took some finesse.. lol.. it comes apart easier now when you're tryingn to disassemble it..but seems to be holding together fine on its own.
travisxcore said:
Send it to HTC then? You get a 1 year warranty when you buy the phone.
Honestly, I think Corning had another incident of releasing faulty glass. I've dropped mine numerous times, from pretty high up and I don't have a single scratch on my phone.
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Corning makes the glass on the Raider/Vivid?
I would suspect it to be more sturdy if its corning, my SGS has been without a screen protector and still does not have any scratches. Yes i know SGS is Gorilla Glass and this is not but i would think it would be stronger.
@ bproulx
You should take it apart again and make a tutorial . I hope i never have to go though what you did. Knock on wood.
lol..might take it apart again..
So..I have smudges on the inside of the glass. Stupid sweaty fingers. Now I'm tempted to pull it apart again ..but not far enough to make a tutorial lol.. besides.. I'm glad I didn't have a camera on me - you guys woulda had a good laugh at me breaking into a sweat trying to pry loose the glass panel the first time..lol. I know it was already broken but (a) I was trying not to cut myself on it and (b) I was also trying not to break the lcd underneath. Which I believe also has smudges on it. Oi.. I guess I'll have to get in there and clean it. Probably not tonight tho. I'm just glad the thing still works - I was scared I was going to bust something. There are a LOT of little things in there. For the record the CPU looks neat. Its smaller than a sim card, a little bigger than a micro sd. Pretty impressive.
bproulx said:
So..I have smudges on the inside of the glass. Stupid sweaty fingers. Now I'm tempted to pull it apart again ..but not far enough to make a tutorial lol.. besides.. I'm glad I didn't have a camera on me - you guys woulda had a good laugh at me breaking into a sweat trying to pry loose the glass panel the first time..lol. I know it was already broken but (a) I was trying not to cut myself on it and (b) I was also trying not to break the lcd underneath. Which I believe also has smudges on it. Oi.. I guess I'll have to get in there and clean it. Probably not tonight tho. I'm just glad the thing still works - I was scared I was going to bust something. There are a LOT of little things in there. For the record the CPU looks neat. Its smaller than a sim card, a little bigger than a micro sd. Pretty impressive.
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I've taken apart laptops (MacBooks at all) and successfully reassembled them so I think I'm up to the job. I'm reaaaally thankful that it says AT&T at the top and not HTC like the pic shows (since I'm on att).. Another question though, did you successfully get the "void" plastic piece back over the screw? Because, I want to keep this phone as "under warranty" as possible
Getting better at taking it apart..lol..
Chism87 said:
I've taken apart laptops (MacBooks at all) and successfully reassembled them so I think I'm up to the job. I'm reaaaally thankful that it says AT&T at the top and not HTC like the pic shows (since I'm on att).. Another question though, did you successfully get the "void" plastic piece back over the screw? Because, I want to keep this phone as "under warranty" as possible
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No, the little void sticker on mine was less like a sticker and more like... glue, with paint on it.. lol.. it just flaked apart when I tried to lift it.. but I wasn't concerned with preserving it. Maybe if u use an x-acto or something like that you can lift it intact..? Let me know how you do.
I started getting some random touch input glitches yesterday, and today they got worse.. then my son spilled hot coffee on me and I dropped my phone on the carpet where it of course popped apart..lol..and then when I booted it back up I had some *major* touch glitches.. it was seeing input higher up than the actual contact point, and just acting real buggy..the phone was lagging.. so I took it apart again, completely.. took my sweet time reassembling it this time - I even got out the micro-fibre cloth and cleaned all the glass, and voila.. this time - its like new. I can already tell its put together right this time, which tells me something wasn't quite right before - I'm guessing I didn't get the ribbon cable seated properly before.. there are a lot of tiny, offset contacts on the end of that little cable. Anyway, I guess the moral of the story is screw warranties, and the more times you disassemble your phone the better you get at it.. lol.. it wasn't anywhere near as intimidating this time around. Felt kinda easy, actually. I think I just psyched myself into thinking it would be hard to do the first time around.
I do miss my original glass tho.. I'm thinking about contacting HTC and ordering an oem panel lol.. this one feels.. grippy. The HTC one felt smooth as silk.. I dunno this one kinda feels more like window glass. Meh.. better than a broken ghetto phone. At least now I can whip it out in public without hanging my head in shame and peeking around to see who's looking at my ugly screen. I never even tried HTC directly..I just googled the part and went with the one with good reviews..
OMFG...FML..
Sooo.. I got angry at my Raider today.. started doing the weird touch input glitches again after a battery pull, got frustrated and slammed my phone down on the table in anger...and.... smash. Brand new panel is now ten times as shattered as the old one was. AND...now the phone won't even light up. AND..it looks like I may have cracked the actual LCD this time.. just a small crack at the very bottom - wouldn't even be visible with the shell on the phone.. but.. I'm not very optimistic. I get absolutely nothing on my screen when I boot the phone, all I get is one haptic "bump" and thats it. Nada.
Sooo... looks like I need a new phone. Again.
Lame.
There goes $600.00
....sigh.
Anyone wanna donate an old android device to a guy who's now really really sad and has no phone? LOL.. why did I give away my legend????
Not giving up my phone!! LOL!
Ok so I decided to try my luck at replacing the LCD as well as the busted digitizer that I just re-broke..lol.. back to tmart, and ordered both. I really wish I could have found the whole assembly pre-built, but the only company I found selling both as a single unit had a minimum order of 5 pcs. Out of my price range for repairs, although with my track record maybe it wouldn't have been a bad idea? lol.. anyway, I just bought both parts from tmart and am still waiting for one of them to show up. The good news is I was able to replace the LCD already. It really is just held in there with tape. Like.. there's nothing really holding it all together..you'd think with all those screws and tabs they could have come up with a better way?? Ah well. I have a display again, but until I can get the digitizer and install it I'm without input.. so I can just watch the phone boot and then sit on my lock screen. Or boot into recovery mode and use the vol and power buttons to mess about.. But why..lol. I'll just wait.
I'm just happy that nothing else seems to be affected. I had my alarm going off still with no screen, so that tipped me off that everything else should still be ok. I won't know for 100% certain til I complete the repair, but it looks promising. I picked up a used HTC Magic (ugh) from kijiji for $80 and it came with 3 batteries, 3 chargers, 3 usb cables, 3 leather cases, and a bunch of other crap in threes. Just so I'm not completely without a phone in the meantime. Overall not bad for $80 but man is this phone slow. I installed a custom rom **THANKS XDA!!** on it and it improved the performance and look of the OS a little, but it lags a lot even overclocked when just typing a text.. I can't wait to get my phone back!!
Aside from the screens, this phone is pretty tough. I slammed that sucker down pretty hard that day.. Cmon HTC - why didn't you give us gorilla glass on a $600 LTE phone!?!?!?!? I wish I could find an aftermarket panel that was made from gorilla glass. That would totally rock!
Yeah, i really wish they would've put gorilla glass on it. I used to have the atrix and ive dropped it on tile floor at least 3 times... Nothing. Keys in the same pocket as phone.. No scratches at all.
I didn't want to try my luck, so I just got a replacement vivid
hi folks. i managed to replace my galaxy note front glass with a new one i got from ebay for 19$ and i want to make a step by step guide on how it can be done.
i did it using common tools and a s load of pacience and attention.
the tools i used are: heat gun with hi and low settings, exacto knife set,small phillips and flat screwdrivers, goo gone, and optional a screen protector.
first take the phone apart as it's describet in countless of threads and youtube videos. you should end up with the screen assembly shown in the first picture.
now we have to separate the glassscreen from the frame it sits on. for this we fire up the heat gun.
a few words about using the heat gun.
-my gun had 2 settings: low and high. during all this process i used it on low.
-don't put the gun directly and/or close to the thinn plastic wires that hold the two connectors.
- dont hold the gun in the same place more than 3 seconds, instead swipe the gun around the spot and the screen like u would do with a paint brush when painting.
- dont hold the gun too close, that is closer than 3 inch
-concentrate on the spot u working at but try to heat up the whole screen assembly, as it has to give away from all the points kind of at the same time, and not just the point u working at.
- dont overheat the screen as this will damage the amoled. thats how i got the two yellow spots on my screen. first one by accident and second one intentionaly to see if indeed the overheating is what caused it.
A very good rule for this is dont heat the phone more than you can bear to touch it cause afterall you have to hold the phone while working on it...
the way i did it is :
-i heated up the whole screen assembly, back and front, for a minute or two
- than i started to stick the tip of the exacto knife between the glass and the metal edge that sorrounds it. i started from the upper right corner, the side where the front camera is. see photo 2.
the goal is to unstick the glass from the frame. in photo 3 the frame and the screen is shown without the upper glass. this photo was taken after i finished everything, thats why the screen can be seen inside the frame. but i posted it to show the black sticky tape that its used to hold the glass to the frame. i think is the same kind of sticky tape thats used in all the touchphones including iphone to hold the front glass to the rest of the phone. in photo 4 i unsticked some of the tape to show it better. this tape is the main thing that holds the the glass to the frame. the other thing that hold the screen to the frame is some sticky glue on the back of the screen. but this is much softer and thiner glue. this is the reason why i say to heat up the whole screen assemby including the backside, to make it easyer to unstuck the glass and scren thats glued to it.
- once you get a bit of a foothold in the upper corner between and the glassand the frame you continue the folowing procedure again and again until the glass and screen detaches from the frame:
-every 2 minutes or so , when i feel the asemby cooled down, i'd heat up the whole assembly for 5 seconds or so, than concentrate on the spot i worked on for another 5 seconds, than move/push the exacto knife a bit. dont force it. after a while youl get a feel of it. if the exacto knife happend to be out, i would heat up the blade after heating up everything else, and than put the blade in.
prevent the freed parts from sticking back to the frame by using the rest of the exacto knife blades as shims.
once it detaches it should look like photo 5- the glass glued to the screen.
- now we have to detach or unglue the glass from the screen.
procedure is the same: start somewhere, heat, put knife in, etc... i used a second knife as shim folowing the first knife, and after avery couple moves i would get the knife out and wipe off the epoxy glue. heat the blade and put it back in.
when finished you should have something like photo 6 and 7: free screen covered in glue epoxy residue.
- now we have to get rid of the glue residue. i took the bulk of it usinga flat exacto knife blades like the one in photo 8 and 10. just warm the place a bit with the air gun and scrape it off with the blade. to clean what was left i used a bit of goo gone on a pice of cloth or napkin photo 9.
cleaned screen can be seen in photo 11 - sadly out of focus.
if u are like me and r impatient to test the screen you can just connect with just the side connector like in photo 12 and 13. the upper connector is for the s pen digitizer. side connector is for the screen and touch digitizer.
now all that's left is to put the phone back together except leave the new glass for last.
-first thing is to put the screen(without the glass) back on the frame. try to center it just right, so that ther's a little bit of space between the sides of the screen and the frame.
at this point all that will hold the screen to the frameis the thin layer of glue on the back of the screen. after centering and lowering the screen in the frame procede to put the phone back together folowing in reverse order the same steps used to disasambe it. when finished you should end up with the whole functioning phone except the front glass -as seen in photo 14.
now you can chose to trim and put a screen protector on the scree so as to fill the empty space between the screen and the glass - the space where the glue was, or you can just leave it empty. you can put a screen protector anytime after by removing the glass. which should be much easier to remove now that its held in place only by the blach sticky tape on the edges. just use some suction cap to remove it, starting at an age, and remove it like fliping a page. see photo 16. i used the note for 2 weeks without the screen protector in the empty space and it worked without a problem onlt thing was that when i pushed hard the glass would touch the screen and leave a bit of dirt in that place. thats why i decided to put the screen protector to fill the void. in photo 15 i raised the screen protector to make it visible in the photo.
if you are like me and worry that somehow the glass might fall off the phone you can always get a hard plastic case for the phone, like the one in the pics. it's made of 2 parts. one goes on the back one on the front and they snap togeter around the phone. this will hold the glass in place no matter what while it will also protect the phone.the case is in photos 17 and 18. i got this one of ebay for 8$ and free shipping.
the last thing to be done is:
for some reaseon the touch screen became much more sensitive after removing the glue so you need to lover the touch sensitivity. for this get the touchscreentune app from the market. it works with galaxy note and galaxy s2. put the sensitivity from the recomended 25 to 50.
the best thing about this procedure is that i dont have to worry about the f ing glass anymore. if it brakes again i'l just order another one and in under 2 minutes i can replace it. all i have to do is get the phone case off, put a suction cap on , , remove the old glass , and put the new glass. that's it.
because it takes 4 to 8 hours i would recommend the process to be done in 3-4 sessions as people would get tired after 2 hours of work and tend to lose focus, attention, patience and start to push to get it faster done, and that's when bad stuff happens like yellow spot burn on the screen or small scratches. another thing about scratches, even if u manage to scrach the screen dont worry to much as the scratches are almost invisible when the screen turns on. youl see what i mean ....
i do have one question: WHY DID SAMSUNG DECIDE TO GLUE THE SCREEN TO THE GLASS INSTEAD OF HAVING THEM SEPARATE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TOUCHPHONES?
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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anonymous572 said:
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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what kind of glue did you use? where did u get the glue from? how did u do it?
i didnt glue the glass back to the screen. i just put the glass on the frame. to fill the void where the glue was i trimed a regular screen protector and put it inbetween the glass and the screen. but it works same without it.
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
pboesboes said:
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
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Nothing is impossible with the right tool and know-how . The glue could probably be uncured with a heat gun, just like ipad. The challenge is not damage the panel and make sure it is dust free after put back the replacement.
It is said impossible because of the difficulty involved. If you can't manage to install a screen protector with perfect alignment and zero dust spike, this task is not for you.
@drevilatwork Thank you for writing this step by step guide!
I dropped my phone last night and it landed face down, cracking the glass.
I'm so upset, but I don't think I have the skills or the tools to do this job myself. I am relieved to learn that the glass can be replaced, but do you know whether the Samsung agents are likely to be able to do this?
they probably wont do it. but you can try showing this thread to some technician or phone repair shop and they might do it for you. they also might charge you a lot to the point where it might be more convenient to just buy a new 260$ screen.
looks scary dude
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
Its worth a try, since screen replacement costs 230 euros.
kawgirlval69 said:
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
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actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
Why different prices for all the same lenses in this shop ?
drevilatwork said:
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
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as i said good luck with it and hope you make some money doing it..... ive successfully done the same thing myself but other than it will never look good like a factory screen (not even close), the amount of time it takes to make it look anywhere near acceptable (not like a 10 dollar repair) is big and that makes the repair not really worthwhile doing it for anyone but yourself and even then who spends 700-800 dollars on something and does a repair that makes it look cheap... then theres the whole ordeal of the membrane youre taking the adhesive off of along with the HUGE chance of damaging it.. it is placed with precision and adhered for a reason along with being dust and scratch free... this is a repair that just wont last because things will start functioning improperly for multiple reasons...
im not knocking you or anyone who tries this..im just trying to emphasize the dangers, downfalls and the probability of it being a legit solid repair. also the resale value when the next greatest thing comes along... just beware....
Hmmmm
Well chaps I hate to disagree here, but after speaking to the technical bods at Samsung it appears that the OLED is NOT glued to the glass, but the glass is laminated and bonded in, much like a car windscreen. My screen got broken the other day and I have read the 2 posts on XDA regarding this. Now if you go and have a look at the pics of the other post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1487716
you can clearly see the OLED, although broken, seperated from the glass with no sign of any glue. The reason it broke is that upon heating the glass you will melt the glue, which will then stick to the edges of the OLED and if you pry it at the wrong place/time/too hard/whatever you will break the OLED as it is glued to the bezel itself. So when my glass arrives I am going to attempt to remove the glass using fishing line and pulling it between the glass and the bezel and OLED to release it, the same way as I used to remove car windscreens, and post the results here. I have also been told that the reason for the sticky "epoxy" mess that you encountered in this postis from melting the plastic on the back of the glass (which is the lamination!) by using too much heat.....I mean come on, a heat gun is a bit excessive!! Prying the screen out a bit at a time might work, but will surely end in tears, where as cutting the cold adhesive with a fine nylon cable, which wont scratch the OLED, might just work. I'll keep you posted on my results.
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
pboesboes said:
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
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this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
kawgirlval69 said:
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
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What do you mean? One of what?
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
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Click to collapse
I know how a digitizer is made.
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
pboesboes said:
What do you mean? One of what?
I know how a digitizer is made.
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION...
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
kawgirlval69 said:
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The sentence made no sense considering what it was replying to. Not my fault you were unclear/ambiguous.
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok?
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reading is very good, but you can't assume everyone in a public forum has read every single post of yours and remembers every detail. What isn't helping is the lack of proper punctuation and formatting which make your posts unpleasant to read.
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Replacement screens are generally OEM parts.
It might appear I'm in a hole, but that's only because I live in Holland and am below sea level. I assure you I haven't done any digging.
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wasn't suggesting to use superglue or epoxy, read it again.
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get that, and appreciate your concern. However, you should understand that some people like to try things even when the chance of success is not very high. You seem to be one of us in that regard (you attempted repairs yourself too, right?), so I don't see why it upsets you so much.
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't care if you play nice or not. I appreciate honesty. Now for some honesty in return: you're not helping in this thread.
All you do is say people's ideas are stupid without giving arguments that aren't arguments from authority. And I would very much appreciate it if you would stop misrepresenting my posts (intentional or not).
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
gunemalli said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Dropped my G2 while getting off pickup truck and the digitizer is kaput. I have no touch response anywhere on the screen. But the LCD is working really well. No damages to that.
So i'm looking for a digitizer as well to replace it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am looking for the LCD and digitizer assembly. but i am trying to find OEM part
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
housing is not an issue
Lttlwing16 said:
When my wife broke the digitizer on her n4, I was in the same boat. I searched earnestly for TRUE OEM parts. What I discovered was this site:
http://www.etradesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+VS980
They are the most expensive, but to my knowledge it is TRUE OEM.
Due to time constraints, I ended up getting a screen on Amazon that claimed to be OEM, and while the screen and digitizer assembly I could tell were brand new OEM parts, the housing had been recycled, as it was missing some adhesive for the board components. While her screen works fine now, it lacked the filter for the led notifications light (as it was a recycled housing) and was more difficult to replace due to the fact I had to conserve the adhesive film off the old housing and transfer it to the new housing. If I had to do it again, I would pay the extra and get the TRUE OEM brand new from etradesupply.com
Good Luck!
PS. If you need a good youtube video for the repair, I recommend this guy: https://www.youtube.com/user/LE55ONS
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
i bought one
squee666 said:
I bought from ebay one of the ones claimed to be an origiginal oem screen. Works perfect and do blemishes etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i did buy one from ebay today, after been an annoying person with lots of questions hahaha. i refused to buy from anyone below 99% profile credential on ebay. here are the questions i asked lol
Is the LCD screen manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store? if not, is the same Quality, TRUE IPS LCD with Gorilla Glass 2 digitizer?
Is this LCD part brand new or refurbished from reclaimed old parts?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel manufactured by the same company that I would find on brand new in box phone that I purchased from an authorized store?
Digitizer – Is the Touch Panel new or refurbished, or reclaimed from old parts?
and if I bought a brand new in box sealed G2 from LG, the part I’m asking about would be 100% identical with no differences in quality or condition?
does it work on D800 model, if not do you have one that works with D800 that is a genuine OEM?
is it OEM (Original equipment manufacturer), does it have part number on the flex cable, and LG display co,ltd label ?
only one seller, answered all of them concisely, without political correctness or avoidance. lots of them stopped talking to me, and some only answered vaguely. i had one hilarious response, who said the the screen is OEM but not genuine, i insisted for him to elaborate, he said OEM but not original. all of us know that OEM stands for Original equipment manufacturer. i sent him a response, that it does not make sense to be OEM but not original. he replied back OEM for them is, Optical equipment manufacturer lol, heck i do not even know what does that mean lol. i took a screenshot of the definition and sent it to him, he never replied back hahaha. many shady seller on ebay
P.s once i receive the part and install it, i will update on the condition/quality
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Link
noris08 said:
can post the link for the seller you bought the assembly?
thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251591046010?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
working
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
sdcaliber said:
update,
as i provided previously with the link of the LCD/Digitizer, i promised to update after purchase and assembly.
i self repaired myself, took me about an hour and Half give or take. it works like a charm, no problem whats so ever.
advise, before attempting to do it yourself, find a youtube video of how to disassemble and reassemble, including how to apply the adhesive (took most of the time).
i can confirm, and take my words for it, the one i bought is an OEM LCD digitizer.
cheers,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
jamracer said:
Can you provide any info on how u got the screen to securely cit in the frame, like what adhesive did u use and how u did it?
I did the repair my self the phone works great except the bottom ov the screen, sticks out abit n I can see the back light, very annoying
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
sdcaliber said:
absolutely,
keep in mind the following things,
i used 3mm double sided adhesive tape, you can find them on ebay for 2 dollars give or take. the hard part laying out the tape in correct manner. you have TWO WAYS to do it that i know of using the tape, whatever that suits you. first one, most people will place the tape on the housing (if you did that, avoid placing the tape over the proximity sensor, camera, the usb, and the connection ports. or it will be a pain to remove them and damage maybe imminent in such situation ). the trick part, is the tape in vertical position around the edges where the bezels of the screen will sit (if its done incorrectly, you will have the problem you have described). therefore i will share the second method, my method :
check if the screen and digitizer works correctly before finally putting the adhesive;
WARNING: if you are not sure what you are doing, please consult with phone technicians for a professional fix. this is only my method/my opinion and in no way constitute a professional advise.
it is separated in to three parts
1 - use 3mm tape to tape the bottom and top of the housing, i repeat do not tape, the proximity sensor, camera, the ports, or the usb, use common sense or youtube to see which one is which .
2 - use the 3mm tape and tape the edges behind of the screen under the bezel (on the screen/digitzer assembly itself, not the housing). it is a narrow spot to tape, that where most people end up with popping out screen at the bottom edges and seeing the light. due to the narrow edges, use a small tweezers to place it.
3- use the 3mm tape and tape the edges of the housing where the bottom of the screen will sit (optional). in my case, i did that also
now peel the double sides 3mm tape, using tweezers will make it easier, much much easier.
once done, take your screen/digitizer assembly, and insert the bottom flex cables first into the housing (they are two cables, be careful, they are fragile), make sure the bottom part sit perfectly and all the cables are sitting correctly into the housing, before you insert the top flex cable (longer thinner cable).
insert the flex cable (the top one, into the housing slowly, while checking around with your eyes, that everything is aligned with the housing. once the flex cable in, double check and see if the flex cable is seated perfectly. check around the phone edges, and if everything is perfect, press gently on the edges, until the adhesive makes contacts. if you find that the screen is not sitting correctly, gently lift the phone slowly, and position it correctly before the adhesive sticks (takes about two minutes before the adhesive taking effects, keep that window in mind).
after the everything is sitting where it suppose to, place everything back inside the phone, turn it on and check again if its working along with the digitizer (i recommend checking whether the screen and digitzier works before placing the adhesive). once you check everything is working fine, turn the phone off, and unplug the battery cable from the motherboard.
use hair dryer (on low) or heat gun (use low temperature), hair dryer is safer if you are not sure what temperature to use with the heat gun and heat around the edges of the screen (keep it moving and do not stay in one place) this is for the final seal, about 30 to 40 seconds of heating. now the screen is sealed shut. leave the phone to cool down for a minute (optional: use a rubber band around the top and bottom for added pressure, not too tight though). plug the battery cable in and reassemble the phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
jamracer said:
thanks alot of the info,
i did the repair and all, the screen and digitizer works well, its just the bottom of the screen sticks up, i went ahead n ordered a roll of 3m 300lse double side tape, the dounble side tape i hav is just the regular black tape, dont think its strong enough, i will go over everything with a fine tooth comb when it arrives, i hav a sprint g2 on its way as well, do u know if the d800 and the ls980 frame is compatible??
thanks for the info really detailed
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
sshark said:
I bought EB40 battery for Atrix HD through Etradesupply's Amazon store. I haven't had any issues with battery and lasted as promised.
Whole purpose of that project was to put battery from Droid Maxx into Moto Atrix HD and bump up capacity from 2100mah to 3300 mah.
May be different buyers have different experience or I just got lucky.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah maybe, all depends of course. most of these products are subject to opinions if there is doubt about their OEM legitimacy. but for me, i will not buy non OEM for battery again, it scares the hell out of me. let's say i had a horrible experience before. i had Note 3, and bought a battery for it. the extra capacity made me drools lol, so i went with it. days later, i found the phone in total meltdown, literally. woke up from my sleep, and the phone is melting/fire.... scary scary experience. the good thing, i do not sleep while my phone next to me. it was on my table, charging.
side not: the original battery of Note 3 malfunctioned
OEM
sdcaliber said:
lots of ebay products claims to be OEM, but i smell knock off (aftermarket). my guts tells me i will regret buying from most of the obeyers who claims OEM/new .. of course their prices are tempting, for example most of them offering a range from $63 - $69..
if you bought a screen, let me know where did you buy it from, and how good it is?
what do you recommend, such as going after used ones that are pulled from previous one etc?
thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought it on Ebay and now it´s working fine, nice!!.. First I bought only the digitizer and it was faulting, but now this assembly is really working fine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281280382756?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Regards,
Just posting to share my experience. I bought a replacement lcd\digitizer for my G2. Once installed, i had white lines going up and down the screen.
Some devices use different panel hardware (JDI instead of LGIT) and you will have white lines after using patched kernel. You must use those kernel with "_jdi" in its name. More info:http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...&postcount=122
After flashing the new kernal the phone works great. The phone does get noticeably hotter, unfortunately, which is a little worrisome.
The kernal issue and the heat lead me to believe that what i bought was not oem.
Sent from my LG-D801 using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
Is D800 frame compatible with LS980?
sdcaliber said:
3m 300lse double side tape should be fine, as long as you use it correctly.
in regards to the frame, well that i am not sure about it. however, the LCD/digitizer i ordered was labeled OEM LS980 (sprint) VS980 (Verizon) and compatible with D800 (att- that is mine) and D801. so far, it fits perfectly. make sure it is OEM, if its not, the cut maybe off, that results discrepancy in fitting with the frame. also, double check with the seller, if the its compatible with your phone.
cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just working on a frame lcd assembly swap on an LS980 rev 1. The frame I bought was a Verizon LV980 and the vibrator was off buy at least 3mm, I didn't mind losing the vibrator to gain a good lcd. Then the proximity detector layout was different, the LS980 had an extra piece that fit in a hole, but it could be removed. About 5mm below that is a ground connector for the motherboard on the LS980 but not on the VS980 and the tab holding the antenna coax hit the motherboard making the frame about 0.5mm too small causing the mobo not to seat.
All of these could be amended. Shave 0.5mm of the soft metal chassis, very easy, mobo grounds in at least six other places and proximity sensor had a removable tab.
But the bottom of the chassis where the dock port/usb board sits was just too different, the LS980 daughterboard wouldn't seat, it was larger. It could be forced but only at an angle that made the usb port off-center and not parallel to the opening. My repair stopped and re-assembled the phone with the LS980 chassis complete with my damaged lcd.
-----attached pics of proximity sensor, and ground connector area, didn't take more, I was getting mad.
sdcaliber said:
i looked at etradesupply, but i searched on google on them and there are many allegation they are not OEM, and their delivery time/shipping are not something you want to deal with. been said that, i am only looking for LCD and digitizer assembly as i can assemble them into the housing myself, i have already took apart the older screen out of the housing without a problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually I bought an LCD from this company. I am very happy with it. It is true HD and the it was shipped for me in 3 days as they said. At first I was very worried with the comments but I took the risk and I am satisfied with it. I don't know why others complain about it but I recommend them.
So I like just about everything about the Sony Z compact line of phones but durability wise I have been unlucky. My first Z3 compact died from water damage and my 2nd one has a screen that is ready to fall off the device.
I choose to buy a HTC U11 to replace my Z3 compact as I have never owned a HTC phone before and thought I would try something different.
What I would like to ask here though is it worth trying to fix the Z3 compact to sell or not?
The only way to protect this phone:
The phone bends 0.1mm causes the phone screen to start opening. So it's not suitable for jeans pockets.
I remedied this by using an anodized aluminium bumper and tempered glass both sides.
Sony does a very bad repair of it's phones, and the issues will return, and their parts are expensive.
It is better to do it yourself and use B7000 glue, use plenty, easily removable for future repairs, no heat, clothes pegs, wait 48 hours before removing pegs or turning on the phone. And look for the best grade of screen with frame, Sony uses two manufacturers for its screens.
My Z3C has a screen that is lifting. This thread and others seem to indicate that fixing the screen is not hard but hardware is not my thing at all...
Would a phone repair place (in a shopping centre) be able to do this kind of repair? Is the phone much different to other phones that people would take in for screen replacements?
I don't care about the loss of waterproofing. The screen isn't even falling out, just lifted in the corner. I don't want to send the phone anywhere and be without it, or have it come back changed in unexpected ways...
a1291762 said:
My Z3C has a screen that is lifting. This thread and others seem to indicate that fixing the screen is not hard but hardware is not my thing at all...
Would a phone repair place (in a shopping centre) be able to do this kind of repair? Is the phone much different to other phones that people would take in for screen replacements?
I don't care about the loss of waterproofing. The screen isn't even falling out, just lifted in the corner. I don't want to send the phone anywhere and be without it, or have it come back changed in unexpected ways...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Phone shops including Sony themselves have difficulty in repairing this particular phone, I think any phone shop can do this repair, but, they must use the B7000 glue or similar, or silicone, and not the red tape they usually use, it's useless, as this phone can heat up, or the blue z3c ready cut tape is not so good either. And if you get the wrong screen (clone), the colours will not be as good.
Many phone repairers have the clone screens that are thicker than the original.
The screen sometimes is actually bent, along with the body, check on a flat surface.
Always buy a good screen together attached with the body, and never by itself.
So armed with this knowledge and or hardware, you could go talk with a phone repairer... The first 3 times, shop, but maybe the fourth repair, try doing it yourself, it's as easy as opening a PC, just smaller, just follow z3c repair guides and youtube, when you're ready. When attempting to repair the phone, for the very first time, do it over hours, maybe over the weekend, and not one sitting.
If you start loosing patience, leave it for a while etc.
[emoji12]
I got so comfortable with opening my phone, I put extra 0.3mm copper plates on the processor and gpu with Cooler Master Extreme Fusion paste etc. Lol.
But it's good to have an already damaged motherboard to work on.
Z3C LOS Omni Oreo
My screen is still working fine. Just lifting.
I do have some old phones I could practice on, assuming they have the same glass sandwich construction.
I will go look for some videos...
a1291762 said:
My screen is still working fine. Just lifting.
I do have some old phones I could practice on, assuming they have the same glass sandwich construction.
I will go look for some videos...
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Click to collapse
?
Z3C LOS Omni Oreo
I put up with my screen for a long time but eventually the glue gave out and I had no choice. It was good, then bad, but ultimately ok.
I didn't have any trouble taking the glass off the first time because the glue was barely hanging on. I had a look and noticed that the headphone jack's glue was also failing. Probably why it was becoming unreliable. I glued that and reseated the screen cable and it worked fine while sitting there so I glued everything on again.
It was a poor first attempt. I had both too much glue (blobs that leaked out) and not enough to actually seal around much of the screen. No problem. I took the glass off again and glued it again. This time I followed the instructions closer and glued the front screen before connecting the ribbon.
The second gluing was good but something with the ribbon was wrong because it only worked when I pressed on the lower part of the screen. Sigh.
Taking the glass off after a good glue was much harder. I finally got the spudger under the glass but I moved it sideways before removing the suction thing. It was too much pressure for the glass. The good news is that it was the rear glass and only the bottom half shattered. I got the rest off and started on the front.
Now that I knew to be more careful, I got the front off OK. Reseat. Test and working. I glued the front on first again, without disconnecting the cable. Tested and working. I glued the half back I had on (covers the camera).
Its working!
I use a case so the back isn't even a problem, but I ordered a new back from China (cheap). The headphone Jack seems better. I put a new screen protector on. In some ways the phone is rejuvenated.
I was apparently not careful enough when taking off the screen though. I appear to have some marks on my screen now. It's minor, probably won't notice during normal use, but there if you look.
I'm so glad to have my phone back. I've been using an iPhone for the last 3 weeks.
Thanks for the tips.
Edit: The hands free speaker works again too. Bonus
Hi, I have an almost 2 year old Moto G6 (just the G6, not Play or Plus). Had it in the same case that length of time. About a month ago, found it was hard to press the power button. I finally just took it out of the case, and in doing so, found the allegedly permanently sealed back cover was coming loose on the side with the power button as well as the bottom where the USB-C jack is. Looks like the adhesive is stretchy but no longer very tacky, and trying to manually press the back cover into place is futile as it won't stay and won't even go all the way in. The phone still works, and after removing it from the case, I now see the power button is fine. I assume it's out of warranty now, I think 1 year and I have no add-on protection plan on my T-Mobile bill. I seen videos of people removing the back cover with a heat gun and razor blade to replace the battery. On what I can see, doesn't look like my battery is bulging. Tempted to crazy glue where the cover is separating, but I doubt that would hold with the pressure that makes the cover pull out again once pushed down. I would think at this point I could carefully just manually remove the whole back cover by hand.My dexterity is awful on repairing small delicate things. Can a shop repair this fairly cheaply? Any advice? I'm in Ohio/USA. Thanks!
I took mine out of the case tonight to clean it and discovered I have exactly the same problem! My case is such that if I put the phone back in it, the case "snaps" together and hence keeps the phone together. Mine is probably two years old too, so I'm sure no fix is possible (but I'll keep my eye on this thread). I'll leave the case on and begin looking for a new phone.
I'm with Sprint so I'm anticipating the conversion to TMo, so I'd rather wait until that happens before I buy a new one.
dannykewl said:
Hi, I have an almost 2 year old Moto G6 (just the G6, not Play or Plus). Had it in the same case that length of time. About a month ago, found it was hard to press the power button. I finally just took it out of the case, and in doing so, found the allegedly permanently sealed back cover was coming loose on the side with the power button as well as the bottom where the USB-C jack is. Looks like the adhesive is stretchy but no longer very tacky, and trying to manually press the back cover into place is futile as it won't stay and won't even go all the way in. The phone still works, and after removing it from the case, I now see the power button is fine. I assume it's out of warranty now, I think 1 year and I have no add-on protection plan on my T-Mobile bill. I seen videos of people removing the back cover with a heat gun and razor blade to replace the battery. On what I can see, doesn't look like my battery is bulging. Tempted to crazy glue where the cover is separating, but I doubt that would hold with the pressure that makes the cover pull out again once pushed down. I would think at this point I could carefully just manually remove the whole back cover by hand.My dexterity is awful on repairing small delicate things. Can a shop repair this fairly cheaply? Any advice? I'm in Ohio/USA. Thanks!
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Click to collapse
You could try using a hair dryer to heat up the glue to make it stick together again.
You could try using a hair dryer to heat up the glue to make it stick together again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought maybe excessive heat and sweat from being in my pocket on hot days loosened it up.
Thanks for the replies FrogFan and Ragarianok. Sorry for the long delay. In the meantime, I got the back case half off, and indeed a swollen battery. I am going to order a new battery for $4 from Mobile Defenders in MI, battery image says Motorola on it, and they say authorized OEM. A nearby repair shop said they will put it in for $20. They said a decent battery should run $20+, but all those higher priced ones on ebay and Amazon are no-names.
Thanks for coming back, dannykewl. I wasted some time inquiring about a fix from Motorola and found out that their "fix" would cost more than the phone was worth. A local shop quoted a ridiculously high price to fix it, too, but they did say the problem could be caused by a swollen battery. I will check with other local shops to see what they'd charge to replace the battery and seal it back up.
Did you get yours fixed?
POP!
My phone separated today and it is a swollen battery. I suspected for about 2 months the battery was swelling because of pressure points showing up on the screen as bright circles. I was just going to buy a new phone as this was a cheap phone and 2 years old, but the battery did the hard work for me by separating the phone from it's back, so I decided to fix. I removed the battery, ordered replacement battery on ebay and will put back together myself for $12. The $4 batteries are out of stock. The phone has enough stickiness left to hold the backplate and phone together on it's own, and it'll be in the phone case so no worries. Might apply a little Elmers to the surround. From what I read online, and saw on Youtube, be careful with the back, it's actually a glass metal hybrid and not safety glass at that. It will shatter off the metal and into little tiny razors and knives. The screen artifacts disappeared when the back was removed, relieving pressure on the components mashing up against the screen from the inside.. No permanent damage. This new battery should tide me over long enough for the affordable 5g phones to come out. I don't buy pricey phones. Oh, fyi... this is a SUPER easy repair. Have faith and go for it.
I took mine to a local repair shop today and confirmed my problem was also a swelling battery. They will replace the battery for me for $75.
Oh, fyi... this is a SUPER easy repair. Have faith and go for it.
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I checked out a YouTube video on this topic and quickly confirmed that this repair is way over my head. I don't have the tools or the patience to change the battery in this phone.